> I want realism, but I'm
> not going to be hand-laying my own track. I'm not overly impressed
> with the appearance of the plastic roadbed on the S-Trax,
> so I'll be doing my own ballast work.
OK. Sounds to me like you fit right in with what most of us would
call "S scale" as opposed to something else. "Something else" is a
topic unto itself for another day.
> What I Understand: If you look at PRR 155 lb rail, a true S-scale
> height would be 0.125 in.
Yep, that seems to be correct.
> I found several references on several
> websites as to SHS having code 125 track <snip>
Do not always believe what you find on websites. Honest errors do
happen.
> S-Trax stuff. The SHS site calls it a 0.131 high rail, but also say
> it's equivalent to 155 lb rail.
Do not always believe what you find on websites. Honest errors do
happen.
> I put my calipers to it and measured
> 0.138, <snip>
Personally, I would trust my own calipers before trusting a website.
In addition, you might want to check out in exactly what years and
which locations the PRR used 155 lb rail. You might find it to be
another stretch to say that #155 was the "PRR mainline" as if it was
used everywhere all the time. Sidings, yard tracks, branch lines,
etc. used smaller rails as well. Try asking the famous "East of
Harrisburg or West of Harrisburg" question and in which years for
some mainline information?
> 1. It seems as if you want to be known as a true S-scale guy, your
> track height need to be 0.125 or under as nothing in the real world
> would scale larger than that. Is SHS track then considered a true
> scale track, or a hi-rail track?
Is it your goal to be known as a "true S-scale guy"? Or, is your
goal to accurately model the PRR in a certain time frame in a
particular location? I think you know by now exactly what SHS track
is and is not. Heck, you have it in your hands and have measured it
with calipers. That is more than 95% of us have ever done. Does it
matter what someone else thinks about it? It is, after all, your
railroad. No need to be worried about your reputation. Just being
in S scale makes you a bit "different" no matter what you do.
> 2. AM also has their Universal Track System which they call out as
a 0.148 rail. There seems to be a lot of parts available, especially
by aftermarket manufacturers of turnouts, wyes, etc. Should I just
ditch the SHS line completely and go with the 0.148 rails and
sacrifice scale, if that's what SHS track is, for the convenience I
want?
At the start you stated that realism was your goal. If that is truly
the case, then you should take the rail size of your prototype's
era/location and divide by 64 and buy the closest size of
commercially available track you can find. My bets are that AM's
track will be too large, SHS track might be "good enough" except you
don't like the factory ballast anyway. SHS ballast can be airbrushed
a darker color and weathered which improves the appearance factors.
Handlaid or flextrak are the remaining options. Since you are not
interested in handlaid track, that leaves the flextrak alternative as
your best choice. Unless, of course, you change your stated goals.
> 3. Are there enough suppliers of code 100 track and accessories to
> give me that same level of convenience?
As Sarah Palin would say, "You bet'cha!" However, your phrase "same
level of convenience" might not quite fit. As far as I know, code
100 is not pre-ballasted and does not come in sectional pieces like
snap track. But I could be wrong and Tomalco or Shinohara
enthusiasts will correct me if I am.
> It seems code 100 track
> producers a little less mainstream.
That is not really the case in spite of appearances. Code 100 is
probably the most common size used by those who consider themselves
true "scale" modelers. Check out Tomalco, Shinohara, and the guy in
Colorado (formerly Tru Scale?) who will make most anything you want
if you can wait a bit for him to do it. You might have to handlay a
30 degree crossing, but it comes all soldered together and so it is
mostly a matter of spiking and cutting gaps and ballasting. And, it
is only a few inches long. Not really a big deal.
> Are there other hidden issues
> using the code 100 track of which I should be aware
If you want realism, are willing to do your own ballasting, know
where to cut gaps, know how to wire a turnout, can solder, like
curves of varying radii, want sidings to be a smaller size than
mainline, etc., etc., then I think you would be very happy with the
code 100 flextrak and almost-RTR turnouts that will need a motor or
hand-operated ground throw installed.
On the other hand, if you want a sectional track system (similar to
snap track in HO) that can be operated on your living room rug with a
minimum of effort, then the SHS system is very popular. If that
advantage offsets the rail size and ballast issues, then it might be
the right alternative for you.
On the other (third?) hand, if you want to be known as a "true S
scale guy", you will have to tell us exactly what that means because
most of us are still searching for that eternal truth after 40 years
in this crazy hobby.
> The S-scale guys seem to be a diverse lot with some strong opinions.
The old saying in S scale is that if you ask ten of us a question,
you will get twelve answers because two of us will change our minds
before all ten can reply. Interestingly enough, that is true.
> I'd like yours!
As Sarah would say, "Ya'got it!"
> Scott Rodriguez
Welcome aboard Scott. You'll find lots of knowledge and willingness
to help on this List. Feel free to ask questions and it won't take
long for you to figure out the ins&outs of S scale. It can be
confusing, but it is all understandable if you take the time to
listen to a wide variety of ideas and make up your own mind. Sounds
to me like you are doing exactly the right thing by lurking and
listening and asking.
Have fun...Ed L.
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