I run all-purpose screws up through the sub-roadbed to hold the Homasote flat and in place. I like this so well that I don't even glue it to the sub-roadbed. If you do use glue, you can remove the screws when it dries.
Where I have used foam sub-roadbed, I drill a tap hole through the benchwork, then clamp everything in place and run a screw up through the benchwork. The tap hole keeps you from inadvertently stripping the screw hole as the screw goes through the foam and into the Homasote. Where I have used foam sub-roadbed, I used longitudinal stringers in the benchwork to support it. So far, it's working. Bob Nicholson ____________________________________ PS. - Ken; when I test a piece of trackwork, I give a car a shove and let it freewheel through the area. Not hard enough to scar the legs on Grandma's oak heirloom dining room table, but enough so that any binding will show up as the car glides through --- In [email protected], "Ed" <loize...@...> wrote: > > > What do you use to seal up the Homasote in order to resist moisture? > > Ed Kenny > > Keep the Homasote in a dry warm place for two days before using. Then glue > it down to plywood using bricks as weights to hold it down firmly. Then > paint with a flat latex paint. Works around here, but my climate is fairly > dry compared to others. I cannot speak for high humidity locales. Ed L. > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
