I probably could have done a neater job on getting the roofwalks off if I'd been more patient, but this is a sort of quick-and-dirty job rather than a contest-quality one (if I do it again I'll be more careful getting the cast-on handrails off, too). My concern was to do the essential fixing to make it look like something from 6-12" away; if I were REALLY serious I expect I'd be scratchbuilding it rather than accepting the compromises necessary in using the AF body (whose proportions/dimensions seem quite good).
Jace Kahn General Manager Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. > To: [email protected] > From: [email protected] > Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 15:04:08 +0000 > Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: Ace Parts/AF Caboose (was Walthers Couplers) > > Jace: > > When I did #101 (see "{Files" under "Bob Nicholson") many moons ago, I used a > milling wheel in a Dremel tool and machined the roofwalks off. Slow going, > but if you're careful it can be done. > > I think I still have the end platform grab iron jig I used to make the > platform grab irons for the caboose steps. > > I do know I have two caboose bodies with metal floors and Ace conversion > bolsters already installed. They wer supposed to be #'s 102 and 103, but > somebody steered me onto the Santa Fe caboose bodies from Industrial Rail. > That was before American Models came out with their wood caboose, which would > have been more appropriate. > > Bob Nicholson __________________________________________ > > > --- In [email protected], JGG KahnSr <jacek...@...> wrote: > > > > > > > > The caboose conversion is coming along nicely: I sawed off the cast > > roofwalks (should have been a bit more careful, but to some extent > > this is pretty much a trial run--I am using one of what I assume is one of > > the later production cars with the stamped one-piece floor and > > ends, actually easier for my purposes than the ones with the floors riveted > > to the body). The floor is going quickly with styrene sheet and > > shapes and is not going to be a precise, contest-quality, result, but > > should look quite adequate as a representation of the prototype. I am > > using O scale "northeastern" type cars (Weaver plastic, Sunset brass, West > > Shore urethane kit) for inspiration rather than the scale drawings and data > > that appeared in RMC twelve or fifteen years ago, but I think it will come > > out well enough. > > > > I think I have now procured as many AF twin hoppers as I am ever likely to > > want to convert; after all, I now own at least thirty SHS, AM and SSA > > better-quality hoppers as well. I am starting to run out of the Ace > > conversion bolster castings I stocked up on in Duluth, so do any dealers > > have some they want to unload? > > > > Any dealers want to sell me the Walthers couplers so they get the profit > > rather than Walthers? > > > > Jace Kahn > > > > General Manager > > Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=CPLRS+TRKS&scale=H&manu=Walthers&item=&keywords=Proto+Max&words=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search > > > > > > I use these almost exclusively since I found them. Walthers does not > > > promote them, so they are kind of hard to find on their web site. I never > > > noticed much difference in slack action, but then my eyes are not as > > > sharp as some of the young guys on this list. > > > > > > The short shank version will work on S Helper cars by simply reaaming and > > > tapping 1-72 the coupler mounting hole that is already there on those > > > cars. You can ream the mounting holes in the coupler boxes to 2-56, if > > > you have to, for other brands. I've done them both ways. > > > > > > Bob Nicholson __________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > Thomas Baker wrote: > > > > > > > Walthers Kadee Clones? > > > > > > > I didn't know Walthers made such a product. > > > > > > > > > > > > Walthers makes and sells a Kadee-like coupler that is slightly > > > > > > larger than the true Kadee #5 coupler. Some folks like it beause > > > > > > it is bigger and closer to an S-sized coupler. When I tried a > > > > > > pair, I noticed there is a lot more slack action between the > > > > > > coupled knuckles. I prefer the genuine Kadees with a > > > > > > tighter/closer fit with less slack action. Ed L. > > > --- In [email protected], JGG KahnSr <jacekahn@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I'll drink (a cup of cappuccino) to that. Until the past year of so, > > > > my only use for HO Kadees was for On2, so I hadn't kept up on > > > > developments. I did notice in passing that after the Kadee basic > > > > patents expired that clones started appearing (McHenry being one > > > > that I recall seeing advertised). Need one order direct from Walthers > > > > for such sales, or can any retail dealer get them less discount > > > > to sell at that price? > > > > > > > > Jace Kahn > > > > > > > > General Manager > > > > Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To: [email protected] > > > > > From: raisinone@ > > > > > Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 03:47:39 +0000 > > > > > Subject: {S-Scale List} Re: Walthers Couplers > > > > > > > > > > Some of us use the Walther's couplers because you can buy 20 pair for > > > > > 20 bucks when they are on sale... "Cheap" being a decidedly strong > > > > > influence in S Scale. <G> > > > > > > > > > > Jim Kindraka > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In [email protected], "Ed" <Loizeaux@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
