1.4mm--one of the standard metric threads, essentially comparable to an 0-80
SAE. Kadees and SHS couplers will work with either, although I strongly
recommend real 0-80 screws (I get mine in quantity from MicroFasteners in New
Jersey) rather than the coarse threaded ones that come with Kadees. Anyone
doing any serious work should have a set of both SAE and metric taps (NWSL is
one source). I also prefer Phillips heads, as the slot doesn't get distorted
so easily.
It depends on how thick the brass being tapped is whether one really needs a
lubricant (and perhaps also how small the tap is); fairly thick holes probably
should be lubricated--one has not lived until one has broken off a tap in a
blind hole. Any light oil works well. The commercial tapping solutions are
really intended for pipe-fitters working on steel and iron pipe.
The SHS are an excellent alternative to Kadees for tight clearances; as I've
noted on the list, I used them on my PA Heritage (I noticed Tom Doherty was
saying he plans on getting out of S scale) 44-tonner to great advantage.
Jace Kahn
General Manager
Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co.
> Thorin;
> Are sure about the SHS screws being M14?? M14 would be huge!
> Anyway, IPA would be a good lubricant for tapping brass. Of course you
> still have to go slow with that 0-80 tap.
> Jeff S.
I am getting couplers mounted on my steeplecab
> > and they perfectly came out to the correct height. Sometimes I get lucky.
> >
> > I am mounting S Helper 01295 couplers. (These were made for the Ore Cars
> > and
> > come four to a blister pack. The draft gear is very, very compact.) Don
> > recently informed me these that the mounting screws that come with the
> > couplers
> > are metric M14. I don't have an M14 tap. Plus the screws are too short for
> > my
> > needs. I went to the hardware store discovered 0-80 screws fit the holes. I
> >
> > returned to my model and drilled #56 holes. The 0-80 tap is doing a great
> > job
> > tapping the brass. I moisten the tap with my tongue, run it in to the
> > friction
> > point, add one-and-one-half revolutions, back out, remoisten, and repeat.
> > Eventually it breaks through. The 0-80 screw works great.
> >
> > My question relates to taping lubricants. I have always heard you should
> > use a
> > cutting lubricant. (Spit is one.) I am working with brass, not iron. Should
> > I
> > be using a true cutting oil? The web seems to think cutting oil should be
> > omitted when tapping brass.
> > Thorin
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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