Clearly someone with more knowledge about machining/engineering than I possess. I think I'd only ever come across SAE category as distinguishing threads from either metric or BA (the British practice, which anyone who has ever worked with a kit produced in the UK will have encountered, although I suspect it has been increasingly replaced by the metric system, more than the 0-80/2-56 type has been in the US). Charles's clarification also addresses what I had mentioned, that proper 0-80 screws are preferable to the coarse-threaded ones with the Kadee couplers (probably those are intended as self- tapping, never a good choice for careful workmen)
A college classmate was a member of the family that started and long-owned J. Morris, although when I mentioned that at a reunion some years ago he told me they had since sold it to other interests. The problem with Morris taps is that they are designed to be used with their own wrench or a pin-vice, and do not give as good torque as the more-common square-shanked taps in the T-type wrench. Probably like most model railroaders I started with a Morris set, since that is what Walthers sold/distributed, but once I started using the square-shanked taps and T-wrench (or the other type of wrench with longer handles) my Morris set has sat in the back of the toolbox. Almost all the Morris fastener system--or at least the ones that Walthers long distributed (they seem in recent years to have packed some from another source in a proprietary line)--were brass. Useful for many applications, although since I started buying screws and such in quantity from other suppliers such as MicroFasteners (much cheaper) I have had no problem with the steel ones I've bought. Since I have a goodly supply on hand, I shall probably never need them again, but Radio Shack is a convenient source for 2-56 and 4-40 screws and nuts if one is caught in the hinterlands needing them quickly; although one of the advantages of ordering quantities in advance is that one can specify the Phillips head. As others have noted, Ace Hardware franchises also have quite a selection in the battery of small replacement parts at the back of the store, including metrics down to 2mm, although they tend to be pricey, as one is buying them at a single unit price. Jace Kahn General Manager Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. > A minor point: 0-80 is a UNF thread, not SAE. See > > http://www.zytrax.com/tech/mech/threads.htm > > Also, if you need really small fasteners, check out the Morris company. > Charles Weston > > 1.4mm--one of the standard metric threads, essentially comparable to an 0-80 > SAE. Kadees and SHS couplers will work with either, although I strongly > recommend real 0-80 screws (I get mine in quantity from MicroFasteners in New > Jersey) rather than the coarse threaded ones that come with Kadees. Anyone > doing any serious work should have a set of both SAE and metric taps (NWSL is > one source). I also prefer Phillips heads, as the slot doesn't get distorted > so easily. > It depends on how thick the brass being tapped is whether one really needs a > lubricant (and perhaps also how small the tap is); fairly thick holes > probably should be lubricated--one has not lived until one has broken off a > tap in a blind hole. Any light oil works well. The commercial tapping > solutions are really intended for pipe-fitters working on steel and iron pipe. > The SHS are an excellent alternative to Kadees for tight clearances; as I've > noted on the list, I used them on my PA Heritage (I noticed Tom Doherty was > saying he plans on getting out of S scale) 44-tonner to great advantage. > Jace Kahn [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
