A minor point: 0-80 is a UNF thread, not SAE. See http://www.zytrax.com/tech/mech/threads.htm
Also, if you need really small fasteners, check out the Morris company. Charles Weston --- On Thu, 12/16/10, JGG KahnSr <[email protected]> wrote: From: JGG KahnSr <[email protected]> Subject: RE: {S-Scale List} Tapping brass and Steeplecab Progress To: [email protected] Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 4:28 PM 1.4mm--one of the standard metric threads, essentially comparable to an 0-80 SAE. Kadees and SHS couplers will work with either, although I strongly recommend real 0-80 screws (I get mine in quantity from MicroFasteners in New Jersey) rather than the coarse threaded ones that come with Kadees. Anyone doing any serious work should have a set of both SAE and metric taps (NWSL is one source). I also prefer Phillips heads, as the slot doesn't get distorted so easily. It depends on how thick the brass being tapped is whether one really needs a lubricant (and perhaps also how small the tap is); fairly thick holes probably should be lubricated--one has not lived until one has broken off a tap in a blind hole. Any light oil works well. The commercial tapping solutions are really intended for pipe-fitters working on steel and iron pipe. The SHS are an excellent alternative to Kadees for tight clearances; as I've noted on the list, I used them on my PA Heritage (I noticed Tom Doherty was saying he plans on getting out of S scale) 44-tonner to great advantage. Jace Kahn General Manager Ceres & Canisteo RR Co./Champlain County Traction Co. > Thorin; > Are sure about the SHS screws being M14?? M14 would be huge! > Anyway, IPA would be a good lubricant for tapping brass. Of course you > still have to go slow with that 0-80 tap. > Jeff S. I am getting couplers mounted on my steeplecab > > and they perfectly came out to the correct height. Sometimes I get lucky. > > > > I am mounting S Helper 01295 couplers. (These were made for the Ore Cars > > and > > come four to a blister pack. The draft gear is very, very compact.) Don > > recently informed me these that the mounting screws that come with the > > couplers > > are metric M14. I don't have an M14 tap. Plus the screws are too short for > > my > > needs. I went to the hardware store discovered 0-80 screws fit the holes. I > > > > returned to my model and drilled #56 holes. The 0-80 tap is doing a great > > job > > tapping the brass. I moisten the tap with my tongue, run it in to the > > friction > > point, add one-and-one-half revolutions, back out, remoisten, and repeat. > > Eventually it breaks through. The 0-80 screw works great. > > > > My question relates to taping lubricants. I have always heard you should > > use a > > cutting lubricant. (Spit is one.) I am working with brass, not iron. Should > > I > > be using a true cutting oil? The web seems to think cutting oil should be > > omitted when tapping brass. > > Thorin [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
