I agree that well painted flextrack can look better than handlaid with giant
spikes every five ties or so.  But that's not the only way to handlay track.
For my handlaid model of track without tie plates, I use the Proto:87 Stores
etched 150% HO spikes, which work out to about 110% S spikes, which is
plenty small for my aging eyes.  And it is tedious, but I do put two in per
rail per tie.  The exception is where there is a rail joint, then those get
two spikes on the ends of each rail so there are four spike in that end of
the tie.  (I don't use rail joiners, but detail later with joint bars.)  I
guess I'm nuts.  

BTW, Tomalco (now PBL) Sn3 Code 70 and 55 flextrack and switches do not have
tie plates, but Shinohara (Scenery Unlimited) Code 70 flextrack and switches
have tie plates.  So in Code 70 we have our choice of two detail options.
On my old layout, I used the Shinohara for the mainline, and Tomalco for the
sidings and yards.  When that layout was built, Code 55 flex wasn't
available yet, so I had to handlay that track with the smallest oversize
spikes available at the time.

Dave Heine
Easton, PA

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of
Pieter Roos
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2011 7:19 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: {S-Scale List} Re: Rail height

Hi Bob;

I didn't mean to rain on your parade, but we seemed to be really pushing the
limits of worrying about a tiny increment in rail size. I use code 100, code
83 and code 70 flex track from Tomalco, so I do like the different rail
sizes.

And I also agree with you on good flex track looking better than most
hand-layed. If your prototype did not used tie-plates, or if someone uses
modeled tie plates when hand laying, more power to them. But I don't find
typical hand-layed track with the rails directly on the ties and one
(oversize) spike every few ties as convincing. I have some track like that,
but prefer the flex. The flex track does need painting to look good.

Pieter E. Roos







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