Bob,
I think all of us have spent money on polarizing filters--sometimes they
can save you and the next time they bury you. I haven't used one for
years--at least since I started shooting digital. If you have the
ability to view the histogram when you verify the image on the readout
screen, that will give you the information you need whether to bracket
and in what direction. The screen seems to always give you a "pretty"
picture but the histogram gives you the real information.
Incidentally, I've heard that our great yellow father, Kodak has gone
belly-up. In many ways the photography equipment business and the model
railroad manufacturing business have run similar courses. The US has
traditionally made the lower end camera equipment, while the Germans and
Japanese have built excellent reputations on the higher end (US made
Athearn vs expensive Korean brass). The American companies liked the
cheaper labor. However, now that cameras are now made in a modular
fashion and filled with circuit boards, they could now be made here,
especially since a high-end Nikon is in the 3-8K range!
Bob Werre
PhotoTraxx
I was trying to take pictures of it with the Fuji S9000, but it simply
would not focus close enough for me. Then, my brain shorted out with
one of those brain-warping "flash-overs" and I thought I would see
what happens with the diopters.
Technical question that should interest others on the list: I did an
antique auto shoot (1st one in over a year!), and used a circular
polarizing filter to cut glare. Every one of the shots came out 2
stops underexposed and I had to auto-enhance them with my photo
editing program
I thought the auto-exposure feature on the camera would compensate for
the polarizer, but in this case it didn't. Was I wrong in my expectations?
Incidentally, the camera was the Fuji S3, which I have since sent in
for "computer re-education" since it was developing an independent
mind set in other areas.
Bob Nicholson _____________________________________________
