For over 20 years I have been using paste solder from PBL. It is great on small parts. If I had a joint that was not cooperating a small dap is all it took as it acts as a flux too.
This latest bottle just does not seem to be doing it. Besides being OMG expensive, it seems to need a lot more heat to burn out and set up. This bottle says it is silver bearing which I am sure contributes to the price. I don't necessarily need silver bearing. But I do need to know that any residue left under the joint won't corrode out and blow the paint off later. Does anyone have a source for paste solder for repairing brass models? I would much prefer someone that has a long history with their brand solder as well and is happy with it. Thank You, Bill Lane Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988 See my finished models at: <http://www.lanestrains.com/> http://www.lanestrains.com Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale! See my layout progess at: <http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm> http://www.lanestrains.com/My_Layout.htm Custom Train Parts Design <http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm> http://www.lanestrains.com/SolidWorks_Modeling.htm PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded (Trading is MUCH preferred) <http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls> http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls ***Join the PRR T&HS*** The other members are not ALL like me! <http://www.prrths.com/> http://www.prrths.com <http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf> http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society It's FREE to join! <http://www.prslhs.com/> http://www.prslhs.com Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL
