Yes. I agree. My (1885) prototypes are all smaller than the Kinsmak kits, but I wanted to see how they did it, so I bought ONE. It's not rocket science. I have made my own roof stock, floor stock, and end blocks in different sizes (matched sets) for my different sized prototypes, using either clear white pine or basswood, on the table saw. Siding is either scribed wood or plastic, depending on what is closest to prototype spacing and thickness (they did vary!) and just how worn I want the siding to look. Details are Grandt Line or others, depending. Hand brakes only (no air in 1885), Link and Pins, and truss rods only on those cars that actually had them, with a couple NBW's thrown in.
The trick is in subtracting the thickness of the siding from the scale car dimensions to come up with the frame stock dimensions. Again, it's not rocket science. BTW, I am using PENNIES for car weight. They are the cheapest price per pound of any weight available unless you have free weights available. Plus they are easy to adjust to the correct weight per car. Darrell S. --- In [email protected], "richgajnak" <rustytraque@...> wrote: > > > It's very easy, Tom. > > Just replace all the wood and metal parts in a Kinsman kit with contemporary > equivalents. > > Rich G(ajnak) > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/S-Scale/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: [email protected] [email protected] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [email protected] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
