[lace] beading traditional Danish bobbins
Hello! I just got some Danish bobbins on eBay, and they have round bulbs with a hollowed-out stripe through the middle (I don't think you can look them up on eBay, since the auctions are over, but one of the sellers had a webpage: http://home.tiscali.dk/gjensen/, I got six B-3S and six B-3L from the first picture, and some that look similar to B-3L from another seller). Are those stripes there to put beads in them like I've seen on traditional Danish bobbins? If so, how do I do it? Are there instructions online somewhere? Weronika -- Weronika Patena Caltech, Pasadena, CA, USA http://vole.stanford.edu/weronika - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] spider material
Hi Lynn - Find a quilt shop in your area. They have fall and Holiday fabrics out now - after all, if you want a quilt in the fall, you have to make it now!! If you google for quilt shops online, you'll find tons of them... and most feature fall fabrics right now. Clay - Original Message - From: Lynn Weasenforth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 12:39 AM Subject: [lace] spider material Hello gentle spiders, I would like to ask a question. Does anyone know where I can find the spider web looking material. I have seen your pincusions (spelling wrong) and I would love to get my hands on some of that material. It doesn't matter what color, I just would like to get some and make a few things for my lace equipment. Thank you for any help. Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Clarksburg, WV where we had a break from the heat and had temps. in the 60's and all day of rain. It was such a nice break from the sweltering heat. I am used to Texas dry heat, this humid stuff is miserable. :) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Danish bobbins
Weronika wrote: (I don't think you can look them up on eBay, since the auctions are over, Yes you can. By clicking on the advanced search tab on the search page, you can search for items which have finished. By doing that I got four lots of Danish bobbins. As three of them attracted no bids, and you're quoting styles BS and BL, the following must be the page - and now I think we know your ebay ID! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=19158item=81223711 33rd=1ssPageName=WD2V Jean in Poole - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Danish bobbins
The bidders IDs show up in the bid history - and you haven't hidden your identity under a pseudonym. Did you know that Kleinhout in Holland sell bobbins of several countries, including Danish? Several of us have dealt with them very satisfactorily. They sell lace stamps for stamp collectors as well: http://www.kleinhout.com/GB/welcome/ Usual disclaimers. Jean in Poole - Original Message - From: Weronika Patena [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Jean Nathan [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 4:56 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Danish bobbins Hmm, I didn't know that. But no, you actually don't know by ebay ID - I was outbid and got them by second chance, which apparently doesn't show up on the search. I just couldn't let you think my ID was minibunny!!! G Weronika On Fri, Aug 13, 2004 at 04:23:18PM +0100, Jean Nathan wrote: Weronika wrote: (I don't think you can look them up on eBay, since the auctions are over, Yes you can. By clicking on the advanced search tab on the search page, you can search for items which have finished. By doing that I got four lots of Danish bobbins. As three of them attracted no bids, and you're quoting styles BS and BL, the following must be the page - and now I think we know your ebay ID! -- Weronika Patena Caltech, Pasadena, CA, USA http://vole.stanford.edu/weronika - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] pins
I am working on a Chantilly fan and I am thinking about pins. None of my
lace books talk about this subject.
I have three boxes of pins:
38 x .40 mm long and thin
30 x .50 mm -- my usual --
17 x .45 mm short and thin
Recall that Chantilly is a you can never have too many bobbins sort of
lace.
This particular piece uses about 85 pairs and is I guess is about 7 footside
per cm
{17 footside per in). Since previously my maximum was 50 pairs and I worked
at 14 ft/inch, you see that I am being ambitious. Also, I do not actually
know how
to make Chantilly, so I am pretending it is Bucks Point.
This piece is very simple and consists mainly of large blocky half-stitch
figures
and ground.
Method might be relevant, so I say that I am using a big octogonal block
pillow
(9 blocks, corner blocks are triangles, blocks move in all directions). It
is 23 inches
wide. This is my main pillow; almost all my lace exercises have been done on
it,
from the very beginning up until now. The bobbins, all spangled Midlands,
lie flat
on my pillow while I work( ie hands-down). I hate it when the ends of the
bobbins
dangle off the end of the pillow. I always pre-prick.
Since I can only actually work with 10-15 pairs of bobbins at a time and
Bucks
Point usually uses more than that, I need a way to get rid of all those extra
bobbins. I use spring stitch holders, which are thin plastic rods with
stretchy
metal closures. They hold about 9 pairs, 10 if I push it. All my unused
bobbins
are bound in holders and thrown over to the left and right top sides of the
pillow, out
of the way of my working area. When I started I used holders even when I only
had about 15 total pairs since it is so nice to really focus on the
particular motif
I'm working on, secure in the knowledge that the unused bobbins can't possibly
become disarranged. Besides, they need to go in holders anyway when I finish
my session and put the pillow down.
Preparing for my new Chantilly project, I became worried that my usual pins
were too thick. The holes in the pricking are so close together! Surely
they are
about as close as the diameter of a pin. So I decided to try smaller pins.
I bought
the short and thin box and started the lace.
The short and thin pins didn't last more than two rows of lace. They were
horrible,
absolutely horrible to use. The threads kept on looping over the tops of the
pins and
becoming disarranged. After two painstakingly tedious rows I gave up and
went to
my usual pins. It was such a relief to no longer have to intensely
concentrate on my
threads' not hopping and to just zip quickly along, lacing away.
So I decided that maybe short pins are bad for Chantilly/Bucks Point. Maybe
when you have any type of lace that uses lots of bobbins which need to be
thrown
back and stacked, then short pins are bad because the threads of the
thrown-back
bobbins naturally rise up a little and so loop over short pins. Could this
be true?
So I bought a box(actually, tube) of the long and thin pins. When I got
them I
was disappointed becuase there weren't very many of them (about 150) and they
were so thin that they hurt my fingers when I pushed them in.
I contemplated my pricking more carefully. It seemed to me that in fact
my usual
pins could be used in the ground (17 ftsd/in, remember), although it does
make for a
particularly impenetrable pin thicket--no possible way of spotting mistakes
until they
get out of the thicket. The problem was the half-stitch figures, which in
many places
were almost twice as dense as the ground (ie two half-stitch pins for every
ground
stitch that goes in and out). So I decided to use the long and thin pins for
the figures
and my usual pins for the ground. That way my fingers got a bit of rest from
pushing
the thin pins and I wouldn't use very many thin pins at a time so I wouldn't
run out.
What made this idea particularly feasible is that the difference in the
lengths of the
pins meant I could easily distinguish between the two types when I was
reaching into
the thicket for a new pin.
So, just as I finished off the starting rows of the fan and approached my
very first
figure, I switched to the ground-usual, figure-thin method.
Now it is several weeks later and everything has worked out well. The only
problem
is that I find that the long and thin pins bend. I bet that about a third of
them are
severely bent! I've been using my usual pins for years and the most heavily
used
ones have only a mild bend. These new pins have gotten all beat up after
just a few
pushes!
I think a lot of the bending is due to my not placing the pins accurately
and so
sometimes not being centered in my pre-pricked pricking holes. Also, because
the
holes are so very close together and hard to see, there are times when I miss
the prepricked holes completely and force the pin thropugh the pricking.
Regardless,
[lace] 16th century bobbin on ebay???
Hello Spiders! I came across the following on ebay today: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=114item=6112829488 Now, I must say I'm VERY skeptical. (1) 16th century? says who?? This is an awfully sophisticated turning for a bobbin used in an art form which was merely decades old at the time. (2) for a dug bobbin, the sharp edges of the turnings are awfully crisp and clean... (3) dug from *where*??? this bobbin doesn't look like anything I'm familiar with from way back... Should we launch an email offensive to the seller??? (devilish vbg). Clay Clay Blackwell Lynchburg, VA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] beading traditional Danish bobbins
Weronika wrote: I just got some Danish bobbins on eBay, and they have round bulbs with a hollowed-out stripe through the middle... Are those stripes there to put beads in them like I've seen on traditional Danish bobbins? If so, how do I do it? Are there instructions online somewhere? Hi Weronika, I've purchased several dozen bobbins from Mr. Jensen and have enjoyed them very much. I purchased the ones that have two rows of hollows-they kind of look like honey dippers. (you can see them at, http://home.worldonline.dk/gjensen ) I did bead mine but only the top row. I liked the look of that better than both. I have a daughter who does a lot of bead work so I have lots of beautiful beautiful beads to choose from. I used a thin gauge copper wire but I always had trouble cutting off the ends so that they were close enough to not catch on my pillow but long enough that the twist didn't come apart. After awhile I did figure out how to push the ends of the wires back under the beads so they didn't catch but you do see the twist and the ends a bit. If I were to bead anymore though, I think I'd try something different. Having watched my husband tying flies, the next time I think I'll use a fine fishing line, tie a small knot and then with his pliers thread the ends back through a couple of the beads either side of the knot and then cut them off. I think I might like the looks of that better. I am not disturbed enough by the others to sit down and change them. I will try to take some pictures of my bobbins later on this afternoon. My husband has the camera out on the boat with him right now-hoping to document the winning marlin, tuna or mahi mahi-it's fishing derby weekend and he and his buddies are hoping to bring in the 800 lb + marlin that broke their lines a couple weeks ago. Dona in Asan, Guam - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] pins
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Method might be relevant, so I say that I am using a big octogonal block pillowThe bobbins, all spangled Midlands, lie flat on my pillow while I work( ie hands-down). First of all, the threads looping over the top of the pins. Part of the problem is probably the fact that you're using such a flat pillow. The bobbins don't put tension on the thread, which would keep it from looping over the pins. I have an flat-topped octagonal pillow, but I raise the back a bit to keep the bobbins hanging down. Not so steep that they try to pile up at the very center/bottom, just a bit to take advantage of gravity in keeping the threads under tension. If pin length were the problem, you'd have the same trouble when using your longer pins pushed farther into the pillow. Do you? Anyway, pushing the pins down to the surface of the pillow would keep the lace from riding up and would make it harder for threads to catch on the pins. Also, constantly brushing your bobbins downward (towards you) would help to keep the threads tensioned and unable to jump backwards over the pins. So I bought a box(actually, tube) of the long and thin pins. When I got them I was disappointed becuase there weren't very many of them (about 150) and they were so thin that they hurt my fingers when I pushed them in. The quilters have stick-on pads (one brand is plastic, another is thin leather) that act like thimbles without the bulk. This is great for pushing in pins. They also have something called the Nimble Thimble, which is a very-thin-leather thimble with a metal plate embedded at the appropriate spot. More on your finger than with the pads, but still a lot less bulk and bother than regular thimbles. [Don't be confused by other leather thimbles that are thick leather. The Nimble Thimble is the one that is comfortable for those who don't like thimbles.] The only problem is that I find that the long and thin pins bend. I bet that about a third of them are severely bent! I've been using my usual pins for years and the most heavily used ones have only a mild bend. That's not a function of the length of the pin. It sounds like your long ones are insect pins, which are made of a metal that does bend. I believe Clover or Bohin make some pins that are thinner than .50, but of stainless so they don't bend. Insect pins and brass pins bend if not carefully placed in a pre-pricked hole. Also, because the holes are so very close together and hard to see, there are times when I miss the prepricked holes completely and force the pin thropugh the pricking. If you think you found the hole, but the pin isn't going through, then you should recognize that you need to keep feeling for the hole. That will save your fingers from pain, your pins from bending, your pricking from becoming a mess, and will make your lace more accurate (more beautiful when taken off the pillow). So what is going on here? How do pins fit into the grand scheme of things? I mean, what is the theory about which types to use and how does it all tend to work out in practice? Most people use finer pins for finer/denser lace, but I've never heard a rule of thumb. Maybe someone else will provide that. Motif laces, ornaments, and small circular edgings generally need the pins pushed down to the pillow, because your threads/bobbins will come around to where the old pins are in the way. Therefore, short pins are good for those laces, so they don't have to be pushed so far to get them flush with the surface, or pulled that hard to get them out again. I've not heard anyone say long pins are better for something, but maybe someone will answer your question on that count. better now that I try to make the threads go under a pin. I'm using my usual pin since I don't have a hat pin and I still see great improvement. Yes, guard pins can help keep threads under control, guiding them from the lace to the stacked bobbins. They would help you when using short pins, too. Robin P. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Hanging bobbin on ebay
Well, it sold for over GBP 108. Sorry, but I want a lot more than one bobbin for that amount of money. Jean in Poole - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] danish beaded bobbins
Hi Weronika, I use the danish beaded bobbins and all I did was to use beading thread. Most of mine are 2 colours of beads and I used either white or black beading thread. I threaded enough bead to go around, tied a knot , took one thread and went one way through the bead, the other other thread and went the other way, tied knots and but off. I have been using my bobbins for 4 years and none have come off. I had trouble with the wire and gave up. I enjoyed your webpage and you have inspired me to get out my Chrysanthemum lace and start working on it. It is going easier than I thought, so know I don't know why I packed it away Hope this helps, Irene, Sunny and hot, Surrey, BC - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: pins
On Aug 13, 2004, at 16:42, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Julie in Baltimore) wrote: I am working on a Chantilly fan and I am thinking about pins.[...] I decided to use the long and thin pins for the figures and my usual pins for the ground. Not Chantilly, but... When I took a class (with Pompi Parry) in Polychrome de Courseulles, that's *precisely* what she had us do; we used thicker pins for the ground, and thinner ones for the motifs, where the pins were spaced closer together (sometimes twice as many as in the ground). I ended up using the same mix as you do - the IBC pins, 30x.5mm (my usual) for the ground, and the 38x.4mm, Mechlin ones, for the motifs. That way my fingers got a bit of rest from pushing the thin pins and I wouldn't use very many thin pins at a time so I wouldn't run out. I didn't have much trouble with pushing the long-and-thin pins in (I work on a felt-filled pillow) but I also found them a bit bendy (even though I do have the stainless steel variety) the first time I worked with them (before Parry's class). So, when they were requested for Parry's class, I bit the bullet, and bought 4 tubes of them (they're not only bendy; they're spendy, too, so the bullet was very hard to bite g). And yes, some of the first lot got bent out of shape quickly - being so thin, they're also v sharp, so they seem to think the hole is *here* when it's not... But, after I used them for a while on the same pattern, they seemed to miscalculate less, and slide into the pre-pricked holes correctly more. So, fewer got bent, as I got the rhythm in my *fingers*, not in my eyes... :) What made this idea particularly feasible is that the difference in the lengths of the pins meant I could easily distinguish between the two types when I was reaching into the thicket for a new pin. I don't use pins directly from the pillow; for all it's faster, somehow I never was able to get *that* rhythm right... So I pull them out when they're no longer needed, and put them into their rightful pincushion (and yes, I keep two separate ones, and it *is* a nuisance g), from which I then pull them out again, as needed. Sometimes, I'd put the wrong batch of pins into a pincushion and, reaching blindly, I'd pull a wrong-sized one out. But, within a few hours, my fingers learnt to distinguish the size - by thickness, not length... The holes have gotten much farther apart and easier to see as the weeks have gone by. Yes, and the thread is much thicker, too; it would take a lot of special effort to break them. Isn't it a miracle? VBG It never ceases to amaze (and amuse) me to observe how adaptable our bodies (eyes and hands, in this instance) are... Much quicker than our minds g Now I'm thinking that maybe I could have used my usual pins on the half-stitch figures after all? Possibly... But, equally possibly, you'd not have a series of dots, but one long trough, through holes overlapping. How do pins fit into the grand scheme of things? I mean, what is the theory about which types to use and how does it all tend to work out in practice? When I bought my first batch of Mechlin pins (the long-and-thin kind), it was on Holly's (Holly Van Sciver) reccomendation; supposedly, they allow one a better look at the lace when the pins are so close together they become a forest. I wasn't entirely convinced, but experimented (a piece of Toender, where one repeat was pinned with the bread-and-butter, and the other with the platinum-priced). And discovered for myself that she's absolutely right g; it *is* easier to see the lace beneath, when the the pin-shafts are thinner, and the pin-heads slightly higher up... I had problems with the short pins, but perhaps that was only because I wasn't used to them and is not characteristic. I never liked short pins, but, equally, could never tell why; it was instinctive. Come this summer, I took my bread-and-butter pins (.5mm) with me to Prague. Where I worked on lace which used a thicker-than-I'm-used-to thread, and *much* harder tension... And kept hearing from the teacher: your pins are so thin, you have to push them in deeper. *Deeper, deeper*; at least two-thirds in, to hold the threads without bending. I was very happy my pins weren't any shorter than they were, since they didn't have the ball-heads that the Czechs use on their laces, and the stitches - being made in thick thread - would have slipped entirely off them, had I to push them in any deeper... :) I guess, a forest of pins is like any other forest; the deeper the tap-roots of the trees, the stronger they stand :) --- Tamara P Duvall http://lorien.emufarm.org/~tpd Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) Healthy US through The No-CARB Diet: no C-heney, no A-shcroft, no R-umsfeld, no B-ush. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
