Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
I agree on both points. You say 1-2 business days. Is that with standard shipping? How do you accomplish this without using overnight delivery or priority which may be prohibitively expensive? Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2013, at 11:22 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote: two things in life often don't work out well: 1. rushing 2. cheaping out when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above all. in this case, we learn about rushing. you can't rush anymore as there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500% margins while offering the lowest price at the same time. (in fact,THIS is the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time). one simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency. and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often delivered in one or two business days. cheaping out is similarly problematic. penoff sent me a customer recently who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D. i told him that rather than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10 bucks more than a geba. a few days later he emails to solicit advise as he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder. what did he save by cheaping out? the bottom line is that going and buying a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like buying shoes at walmart. sometimes it works out but often it does not someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long. i didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily by me for 4 years. it has been washed hundreds of times. it will probably last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it out. On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 6:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing. Here's what I did good and bad: Good: I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and dial indicator to set bearings. Bad: I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Autohausaz gives free shipping for all orders over $50. They do offer some OEM parts but they offer no guidance. Not all OEM parts are equal. I don't always know which to pick. That's why I liked Rusty. He would answer all my questions and concerns and give me the best when I asked. He would also match AZ prices. I haven't ordered from Gary as of yet, but I anticipate the same level of service. This level of service cannot be accomplished by AZ. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 30, 2013, at 12:07 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all I suppose. One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can? Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars? Do you provide a tracking number? Do you provide an email invoice with orders? Thanks, Rick Unlike the baseless accusations made on this list, autohaus az does all that, except I am not sure about free shipping over X dollars. That was a perk offered by Rusty. OEM parts are available from autohaus az if you ask for them. NO problems so far. Since Q is no more, we are on our own, and I use several sources like I used to. FLAPS is good for some things, as Curt can attest. Dealers advertising in the Star for OE parts. AZ for the rest. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
it would be by shipping from a warehouse near you. generally, unless the item is heavy or rare, you are no more than 3 business days away as i will ship most of my cross country stuff on fedex 3 day as it isn't really much more than fedex ground unless heavy. but this also depends on where you live. if you live near large population centers, i usually have a number of warehouses nearby to ship from. if you live in wyoming, not so much but it also depends on what is where. a lot of warehouses have no abandoned OEM parts for all URO all the time as customers seem to just want cheaper and they make more money selling URO anyway. On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 7:20 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: I agree on both points. You say 1-2 business days. Is that with standard shipping? How do you accomplish this without using overnight delivery or priority which may be prohibitively expensive? Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2013, at 11:22 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote: two things in life often don't work out well: 1. rushing 2. cheaping out when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above all. in this case, we learn about rushing. you can't rush anymore as there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500% margins while offering the lowest price at the same time. (in fact,THIS is the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time). one simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency. and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often delivered in one or two business days. cheaping out is similarly problematic. penoff sent me a customer recently who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D. i told him that rather than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10 bucks more than a geba. a few days later he emails to solicit advise as he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder. what did he save by cheaping out? the bottom line is that going and buying a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like buying shoes at walmart. sometimes it works out but often it does not someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long. i didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily by me for 4 years. it has been washed hundreds of times. it will probably last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it out. On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 6:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing. Here's what I did good and bad: Good: I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and dial indicator to set bearings. Bad: I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
they actually mostly don't offer OEM parts, which is at least part of how they achieve such fantastic prices. their catalogue is loaded up with chinese generic despite the general availability of the same part in OEM. getting back to the examples i cited recently: kaleb's front wheel bearings from AZ http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=2013300251 these are not OEM nor top quality. why not sell a OEM/quality brand such as SKF, FAG or even ruville? because those cost as much wholesale as these pex (the folks who bring you brake sensors. whatever might be in that box???) cost retail. this is an illusion of low prices, the same sort of thing you can find at walmart where there are genuine bargains in the aisles but mostly just chinese garbage of no value on the shelves. in fact, i'd say AZ's model is the most cynical of the walmart type and in the end will just load you up with garbage and not value. here is bill's expansion tank cap. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=0005018215 a real one is made by blau and costs more than this chinese uro debacle. the price i pay for the uro is $8.38 on my screen from worldpac but i can probably negotiate that down to about 5 bucks. a huge outfit like AZ will be buying direct from uro and paying maybe 3 or 4 bucks for it. so it's a 4 or 5 fold markup and you've just been sold a POS. what have you accomplished here other than getting fleeced? but if i tell you that a real one costs 20 or 25 dollars, i am now expensive as AZ has the same thing for 15. only it's not the same thing! look at mike's AC compressor. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=1021300615 like EVERYTHING at AZ, it's ON SALE. but is this chinese behr the unit to get? of the 3 widely distributed options, it is by far the worst choice but it is also the cheapest for AZ to buy, so it's the one they can sell most cheaply. i can't sell you a real one for that price, but 20% more, so i am expensive while offering all the value when it is a like item, i will sell it to you for 10% over AZ. i feel not ending up with a pile of crap is worth the premium. but it often or even mostly won't be a like item as AZ pushes the stuff i won't even sell On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 7:53 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Autohausaz gives free shipping for all orders over $50. They do offer some OEM parts but they offer no guidance. Not all OEM parts are equal. I don't always know which to pick. That's why I liked Rusty. He would answer all my questions and concerns and give me the best when I asked. He would also match AZ prices. I haven't ordered from Gary as of yet, but I anticipate the same level of service. This level of service cannot be accomplished by AZ. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 30, 2013, at 12:07 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all I suppose. One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can? Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars? Do you provide a tracking number? Do you provide an email invoice with orders? Thanks, Rick Unlike the baseless accusations made on this list, autohaus az does all that, except I am not sure about free shipping over X dollars. That was a perk offered by Rusty. OEM parts are available from autohaus az if you ask for them. NO problems so far. Since Q is no more, we are on our own, and I use several sources like I used to. FLAPS is good for some things, as Curt can attest. Dealers advertising in the Star for OE parts. AZ for the rest. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
sometimes it works out perfectly but all too often not. my ex wife used to boast about how some $7 pair of shoes were the best pair of shoes she ever had. great, but does this somehow mean $7 shoes are a good idea in general? some guys are ok with enduring multiple failures for the thrill of sometimes getting a bargain. i just want it right. i don't see the point in messing around with generic white box chinese stuff reboxed as pbr or ate: when i can have the real deal for roughly the same price. the china stuff might work super fine and dandy but why mess around with it when it so often doesn't? On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 1:00 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote: I mostly agree, however I put PBR rotors on my '83 240D and it worked out perfectly for 25,000 miles. I forget the pads I used, I think ATE. I'm reasonably sure the rotors are less of a big deal than good pads. The fronts on my 190D are ceramic, I forget the manufacturer, Akebono apparently didn't have a listing. The rears irritate me with the occasional squealing even though they were the upgrade pads from CarQuest. I might buy some replacements... -Curt Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 23:22:52 -0400 From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: CACioK3uCxD6SpbQCO=jnpymo2cqpgnrc+nszwwpdze1hvqv...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 two things in life often don't work out well: 1. rushing 2. cheaping out when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above all. in this case, we learn about rushing. you can't rush anymore as there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500% margins while offering the lowest price at the same time. (in fact,THIS is the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time). one simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency. and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often delivered in one or two business days. cheaping out is similarly problematic. penoff sent me a customer recently who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D. i told him that rather than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10 bucks more than a geba. a few days later he emails to solicit advise as he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder. what did he save by cheaping out? the bottom line is that going and buying a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like buying shoes at walmart. sometimes it works out but often it does not someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long. i didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily by me for 4 years. it has been washed hundreds of times. it will probably last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it out. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
I couldn't agree more. When I get parts for the truck, I always ask if they have better ones available. So often the parts guys assume, that price is paramount. They are generally surprised when I ask if there are better ones one shelf. Usually, the price is not much more for the brand name than the house brand stuff. Usually, if you compare the 2, you can see the difference and would not buy the cheaper ones. Randy On 30/08/2013 12:21 PM, Gary Hurst wrote: sometimes it works out perfectly but all too often not. my ex wife used to boast about how some $7 pair of shoes were the best pair of shoes she ever had. great, but does this somehow mean $7 shoes are a good idea in general? some guys are ok with enduring multiple failures for the thrill of sometimes getting a bargain. i just want it right. i don't see the point in messing around with generic white box chinese stuff reboxed as pbr or ate: when i can have the real deal for roughly the same price. the china stuff might work super fine and dandy but why mess around with it when it so often doesn't? On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 1:00 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote: I mostly agree, however I put PBR rotors on my '83 240D and it worked out perfectly for 25,000 miles. I forget the pads I used, I think ATE. I'm reasonably sure the rotors are less of a big deal than good pads. The fronts on my 190D are ceramic, I forget the manufacturer, Akebono apparently didn't have a listing. The rears irritate me with the occasional squealing even though they were the upgrade pads from CarQuest. I might buy some replacements... -Curt Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 23:22:52 -0400 From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: CACioK3uCxD6SpbQCO=jnpymo2cqpgnrc+nszwwpdze1hvqv...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 two things in life often don't work out well: 1. rushing 2. cheaping out when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above all. in this case, we learn about rushing. you can't rush anymore as there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500% margins while offering the lowest price at the same time. (in fact,THIS is the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time). one simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency. and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often delivered in one or two business days. cheaping out is similarly problematic. penoff sent me a customer recently who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D. i told him that rather than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10 bucks more than a geba. a few days later he emails to solicit advise as he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder. what did he save by cheaping out? the bottom line is that going and buying a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like buying shoes at walmart. sometimes it works out but often it does not someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long. i didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily by me for 4 years. it has been washed hundreds of times. it will probably last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it out. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Not glue, go back and read again, I wrote caliper grease: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/brake-maintenance-repair/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-24110-detail -Curt Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 21:02:30 -0500 From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: a8a915a2-1482-4843-9490-92f022486...@earthlink.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes One way to eliminate the squeak is to stick with OEM pads, as they have the anti-squeal material bonded to the back of the pad. Cheap aftermarkets with plain metal backing plates (no layer of hard plastic on the piston side) will probably squeal no matter what you do, and glueing them to the rotors with Permatex is only going to make them very hard to remove. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
I mostly agree, however I put PBR rotors on my '83 240D and it worked out perfectly for 25,000 miles. I forget the pads I used, I think ATE. I'm reasonably sure the rotors are less of a big deal than good pads. The fronts on my 190D are ceramic, I forget the manufacturer, Akebono apparently didn't have a listing. The rears irritate me with the occasional squealing even though they were the upgrade pads from CarQuest. I might buy some replacements... -Curt Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 23:22:52 -0400 From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: CACioK3uCxD6SpbQCO=jnpymo2cqpgnrc+nszwwpdze1hvqv...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 two things in life often don't work out well: 1. rushing 2. cheaping out when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above all. in this case, we learn about rushing. you can't rush anymore as there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500% margins while offering the lowest price at the same time. (in fact,THIS is the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time). one simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency. and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often delivered in one or two business days. cheaping out is similarly problematic. penoff sent me a customer recently who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D. i told him that rather than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10 bucks more than a geba. a few days later he emails to solicit advise as he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder. what did he save by cheaping out? the bottom line is that going and buying a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like buying shoes at walmart. sometimes it works out but often it does not someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long. i didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily by me for 4 years. it has been washed hundreds of times. it will probably last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it out. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
I got my first set if Akebono ceramic pads from Gary a couple of months ago. I have yet to need to clean my wheels, and they stop great. Wish I had done these a long time ago. On Aug 30, 2013, at 11:15 AM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote: they actually mostly don't offer OEM parts, which is at least part of how they achieve such fantastic prices. their catalogue is loaded up with chinese generic despite the general availability of the same part in OEM. getting back to the examples i cited recently: kaleb's front wheel bearings from AZ http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=2013300251 these are not OEM nor top quality. why not sell a OEM/quality brand such as SKF, FAG or even ruville? because those cost as much wholesale as these pex (the folks who bring you brake sensors. whatever might be in that box???) cost retail. this is an illusion of low prices, the same sort of thing you can find at walmart where there are genuine bargains in the aisles but mostly just chinese garbage of no value on the shelves. in fact, i'd say AZ's model is the most cynical of the walmart type and in the end will just load you up with garbage and not value. here is bill's expansion tank cap. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=0005018215 a real one is made by blau and costs more than this chinese uro debacle. the price i pay for the uro is $8.38 on my screen from worldpac but i can probably negotiate that down to about 5 bucks. a huge outfit like AZ will be buying direct from uro and paying maybe 3 or 4 bucks for it. so it's a 4 or 5 fold markup and you've just been sold a POS. what have you accomplished here other than getting fleeced? but if i tell you that a real one costs 20 or 25 dollars, i am now expensive as AZ has the same thing for 15. only it's not the same thing! look at mike's AC compressor. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pgl3la45vwlnyl55pfjruyrupartnumber=1021300615 like EVERYTHING at AZ, it's ON SALE. but is this chinese behr the unit to get? of the 3 widely distributed options, it is by far the worst choice but it is also the cheapest for AZ to buy, so it's the one they can sell most cheaply. i can't sell you a real one for that price, but 20% more, so i am expensive while offering all the value when it is a like item, i will sell it to you for 10% over AZ. i feel not ending up with a pile of crap is worth the premium. but it often or even mostly won't be a like item as AZ pushes the stuff i won't even sell On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 7:53 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Autohausaz gives free shipping for all orders over $50. They do offer some OEM parts but they offer no guidance. Not all OEM parts are equal. I don't always know which to pick. That's why I liked Rusty. He would answer all my questions and concerns and give me the best when I asked. He would also match AZ prices. I haven't ordered from Gary as of yet, but I anticipate the same level of service. This level of service cannot be accomplished by AZ. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 30, 2013, at 12:07 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all I suppose. One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can? Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars? Do you provide a tracking number? Do you provide an email invoice with orders? Thanks, Rick Unlike the baseless accusations made on this list, autohaus az does all that, except I am not sure about free shipping over X dollars. That was a perk offered by Rusty. OEM parts are available from autohaus az if you ask for them. NO problems so far. Since Q is no more, we are on our own, and I use several sources like I used to. FLAPS is good for some things, as Curt can attest. Dealers advertising in the Star for OE parts. AZ for the rest. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
those bin laden casios are usable watches for about 10 bucks On Fri, Aug 30, 2013 at 2:40 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote: Its a tough call. Mine was a $400 car which I put $300 of brakes into, I couldn't justify running it any higher. My Dad has never paid more than $10 for a watch. 20 years ago you could get a decent watch for $10, now he buys them 3 at a time. Seems to me he could buy a $30 watch and be better off but he likes having $10 watches. Couple years ago Angie bought me a $300 watch, best watch I'd had before that was $30. Is the $300 watch better than the $30? Not really, it tells time about the same. I have to be more careful about taking it off before I put my hand into a car engine... -Curt Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 13:21:36 -0400 From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: caciok3st5bo0ffu+vlwy79ax7ghfck6bcd9vj0hn8vpbbar...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 sometimes it works out perfectly but all too often not. my ex wife used to boast about how some $7 pair of shoes were the best pair of shoes she ever had. great, but does this somehow mean $7 shoes are a good idea in general? some guys are ok with enduring multiple failures for the thrill of sometimes getting a bargain. i just want it right. i don't see the point in messing around with generic white box chinese stuff reboxed as pbr or ate: when i can have the real deal for roughly the same price. the china stuff might work super fine and dandy but why mess around with it when it so often doesn't? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Its a tough call. Mine was a $400 car which I put $300 of brakes into, I couldn't justify running it any higher. My Dad has never paid more than $10 for a watch. 20 years ago you could get a decent watch for $10, now he buys them 3 at a time. Seems to me he could buy a $30 watch and be better off but he likes having $10 watches. Couple years ago Angie bought me a $300 watch, best watch I'd had before that was $30. Is the $300 watch better than the $30? Not really, it tells time about the same. I have to be more careful about taking it off before I put my hand into a car engine... -Curt Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2013 13:21:36 -0400 From: Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: caciok3st5bo0ffu+vlwy79ax7ghfck6bcd9vj0hn8vpbbar...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 sometimes it works out perfectly but all too often not. my ex wife used to boast about how some $7 pair of shoes were the best pair of shoes she ever had. great, but does this somehow mean $7 shoes are a good idea in general? some guys are ok with enduring multiple failures for the thrill of sometimes getting a bargain. i just want it right. i don't see the point in messing around with generic white box chinese stuff reboxed as pbr or ate: when i can have the real deal for roughly the same price. the china stuff might work super fine and dandy but why mess around with it when it so often doesn't? ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
When I did rear pads/rotors/calipers on my '84 190D recently I used parts from Car Quest. One thing I noticed about the pads was that the edges weren't beveled but were squared off. I seem to remember the fronts I put on were beveled but I haven't checked. These squared off ones squealed a bit for the first hundred or so miles. I'll ask the obvious question, you did put caliper grease on the pads right? I've heard various opinions about how much to use, I slather the stuff on. First time I did pads I bought a big bottle of caliper grease. The parts guy tried to talk me into a little tube of the stuff but I went for the big jobbie, haven't regretted it in the 3 brake jobs I've done. -Curt Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400 From: dsereta...@yahoo.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: 0ca0081e-761f-45b2-9e8d-8b83e0447...@yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing. Here's what I did good and bad: Good: I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and dial indicator to set bearings. Bad: I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! I responded twice and the emails disappeared. Hmmm. Intercepted by the NSA ??? Anyway, did you bed the pads? Perhaps the rotors are inferior? Here is more than you want to know about the causes of brake judder. Thanks to Philip. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Rick Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Yes I used the CRC red caliper grease. I didn't slather it on though. I initially liked the stuff but I've noticed that it dries to a rubbery goo unlike the Mercedes like stuff that comes in the little packages. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2013, at 7:44 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote: When I did rear pads/rotors/calipers on my '84 190D recently I used parts from Car Quest. One thing I noticed about the pads was that the edges weren't beveled but were squared off. I seem to remember the fronts I put on were beveled but I haven't checked. These squared off ones squealed a bit for the first hundred or so miles. I'll ask the obvious question, you did put caliper grease on the pads right? I've heard various opinions about how much to use, I slather the stuff on. First time I did pads I bought a big bottle of caliper grease. The parts guy tried to talk me into a little tube of the stuff but I went for the big jobbie, haven't regretted it in the 3 brake jobs I've done. -Curt Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400 From: dsereta...@yahoo.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: 0ca0081e-761f-45b2-9e8d-8b83e0447...@yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing. Here's what I did good and bad: Good: I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and dial indicator to set bearings. Bad: I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Not sure if I know anymore what bedding pads means. I initially heard that you should ease on the brakes but then that you should brake hard. Not being sure which approach to take I did do some hard abrupt braking though on the test drive. The rotors may very well be inferior. They are made in China Duralasts. Can I check for warpage using a dial indicator to measure runout. Is there a specific way to do that? What are the measurements? Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2013, at 7:50 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote: On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! I responded twice and the emails disappeared. Hmmm. Intercepted by the NSA ??? Anyway, did you bed the pads? Perhaps the rotors are inferior? Here is more than you want to know about the causes of brake judder. Thanks to Philip. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Rick Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
I can't remember who makes the stuff I've got, Permatex problem. Its kind of blue/purple. I haven't had to go back and find out what it dries like. My 190D does make a little squeak, I can't tell if its the fronts or the rears. Probably the rears, I need to go back and re-slather. -Curt Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:17:19 -0400 From: dsereta...@yahoo.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Message-ID: 96748ef4-3b27-45bf-aaa7-fef390407...@yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Yes I used the CRC red caliper grease. I didn't slather it on though. I initially liked the stuff but I've noticed that it dries to a rubbery goo unlike the Mercedes like stuff that comes in the little packages. Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
From: dsereta...@yahoo.com Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:24:16 -0400 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Not sure if I know anymore what bedding pads means. I initially heard that you should ease on the brakes but then that you should brake hard. Not being sure which approach to take I did do some hard abrupt braking though on the test drive. The article goes into great detail about the transference of material from the pads to the rotors, after installing them as new. What most people erroneously believe is a warped rotor is actually a build up of pad material to the rotor, causing the pedal to pulse when braking. Coming to a full stop whilst the brakes are new and hot can cause this. The article also talks about how the composition of the iron changes as it goes through heating and cooling cycles. Really, read the article. It is very informative. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
From: dsereta...@yahoo.com Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Clipped from the referenced article. The obvious question now is is there a cure for discs with uneven friction material deposits? The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good semi-metallic pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason. The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye. Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back. Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
'Don't mean to imply that mine was this same problem - it certainly was not, but I'm reminded of the '81 300D that I bought from a 94-year-old friend in '01. I remembered when he bought the car new and was a bit envious - his ivory 123 looked much better to me than my cactus green 123 (240D). When I bought it from him, the brakes squealed so badly that I thought it was metal on metal. I immediately bought new pads and was ready to purchase discs if necessary. When I removed wheels, though, to replace the pads, I found nearly-showroom pads and discs. I asked him the next day at lunch when he'd had the brakes replaced. He denied any knowledge of having done so, and replied, Aw, I don't ever use the brakes. A few days of my regular driving and maybe even some extra braking cleared up the squealing fairly quickly. Wilton - Original Message - From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 9:07 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco From: dsereta...@yahoo.com Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Clipped from the referenced article. The obvious question now is is there a cure for discs with uneven friction material deposits? The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good semi-metallic pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason. The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye. Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back. Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
'Said discs, meant rotors. Wilton - Original Message - From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 9:28 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco 'Don't mean to imply that mine was this same problem - it certainly was not, but I'm reminded of the '81 300D that I bought from a 94-year-old friend in '01. I remembered when he bought the car new and was a bit envious - his ivory 123 looked much better to me than my cactus green 123 (240D). When I bought it from him, the brakes squealed so badly that I thought it was metal on metal. I immediately bought new pads and was ready to purchase discs if necessary. When I removed wheels, though, to replace the pads, I found nearly-showroom pads and discs. I asked him the next day at lunch when he'd had the brakes replaced. He denied any knowledge of having done so, and replied, Aw, I don't ever use the brakes. A few days of my regular driving and maybe even some extra braking cleared up the squealing fairly quickly. Wilton - Original Message - From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 9:07 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco From: dsereta...@yahoo.com Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 18:33:09 -0400 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Clipped from the referenced article. The obvious question now is is there a cure for discs with uneven friction material deposits? The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good semi-metallic pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason. The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them Blanchard ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly ground disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the grinding does not remove all of the cementite inclusions, as the disc wears the hard cementite will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the thermal spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the cementite is invisible to the naked eye. Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back. Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
You must brake in your new breaks! Greg -Original Message- From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of dsereta...@yahoo.com Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 3:33 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing. Here's what I did good and bad: Good: I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and dial indicator to set bearings. Bad: I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
One way to eliminate the squeak is to stick with OEM pads, as they have the anti-squeal material bonded to the back of the pad. Cheap aftermarkets with plain metal backing plates (no layer of hard plastic on the piston side) will probably squeal no matter what you do, and glueing them to the rotors with Permatex is only going to make them very hard to remove. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Good point about the backing on OEM pads. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2013, at 10:02 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote: One way to eliminate the squeak is to stick with OEM pads, as they have the anti-squeal material bonded to the back of the pad. Cheap aftermarkets with plain metal backing plates (no layer of hard plastic on the piston side) will probably squeal no matter what you do, and glueing them to the rotors with Permatex is only going to make them very hard to remove. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
I remember reading that article a few years ago and found it very interesting. I will re-read it though to refresh. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2013, at 8:59 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote: From: dsereta...@yahoo.com Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 20:24:16 -0400 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco Not sure if I know anymore what bedding pads means. I initially heard that you should ease on the brakes but then that you should brake hard. Not being sure which approach to take I did do some hard abrupt braking though on the test drive. The article goes into great detail about the transference of material from the pads to the rotors, after installing them as new. What most people erroneously believe is a warped rotor is actually a build up of pad material to the rotor, causing the pedal to pulse when braking. Coming to a full stop whilst the brakes are new and hot can cause this. The article also talks about how the composition of the iron changes as it goes through heating and cooling cycles. Really, read the article. It is very informative. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Since I usually get 60,000 miles on a set of pads, OEM is fine for me. Thats roughly a set of fronts every three years, rears every six. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Brakes on friend's/my 81 300D were OEM; squealed with me a first 'cause he hadn't used 'em. Wilton - Original Message - From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 10:02 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco One way to eliminate the squeak is to stick with OEM pads, as they have the anti-squeal material bonded to the back of the pad. Cheap aftermarkets with plain metal backing plates (no layer of hard plastic on the piston side) will probably squeal no matter what you do, and glueing them to the rotors with Permatex is only going to make them very hard to remove. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
my philosophy on brake stuff is really simple. i sell either original compound (textar/pagid or, rarely, jurid) or akebono ceramics. in terms of rotors, i sell only the german stuff, zimmermann and balo, with a strong preference towards the coated versions. back in the day i'd sell ate powerdiscs and brembo too. but since production has been moved to china, i've avoided them as they are charging the same today for chinese blanks finished in china as they used to be for italian blanks finished in europe. i also find cross drilled rotors stupid and never sell them unless someone just flat out insists they MUST have them i wouldn't even sell rebuilt calipers for years but nobody wants to pay for new today. i like a particular california rebuilder best, but i still really prefer new. there is no way around the rebuilts being essentially just used calipers cleaned up and resealed. as for hoses, i've never had an issue either with original/ate oem ones (expensive) or your febi type aftermarket (a lot cheaper). i do push original though as they aren't that much more money when i can get them in OEM ate On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 8:24 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: Not sure if I know anymore what bedding pads means. I initially heard that you should ease on the brakes but then that you should brake hard. Not being sure which approach to take I did do some hard abrupt braking though on the test drive. The rotors may very well be inferior. They are made in China Duralasts. Can I check for warpage using a dial indicator to measure runout. Is there a specific way to do that? What are the measurements? Sent from my iPhone On Aug 29, 2013, at 7:50 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote: On Aug 29, 2013, at 5:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! I responded twice and the emails disappeared. Hmmm. Intercepted by the NSA ??? Anyway, did you bed the pads? Perhaps the rotors are inferior? Here is more than you want to know about the causes of brake judder. Thanks to Philip. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths Rick Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
two things in life often don't work out well: 1. rushing 2. cheaping out when you do either it generally ends up taking longer and costing more money, but we have moved to a society that values fast and cheap above all. in this case, we learn about rushing. you can't rush anymore as there is a lot of outright crap being sold as people enjoy making 500% margins while offering the lowest price at the same time. (in fact,THIS is the only road to success today, but that is a topic for another time). one simply cannot rush today and expect it to work out with any consistency. and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often delivered in one or two business days. cheaping out is similarly problematic. penoff sent me a customer recently who wanted a deal on a water pump on a W115 300D. i told him that rather than search for a low price on the standard geba pump all the front end sites push, he ought to buy a hepu as those are MUCH better in this application than the mediocre geba and that i'd sell him one for like 10 bucks more than a geba. a few days later he emails to solicit advise as he is having fitment problems with the geba he bought from the low bidder. what did he save by cheaping out? the bottom line is that going and buying a pile of garbage at autohausAZ is not really the best value, sort of like buying shoes at walmart. sometimes it works out but often it does not someone was shocked today to learn that the bucket hat i wear all the time (yeah, i'm a fashion icon) cost over 60 bucks in a world where walmart and the flea market sell bucket hats for under 10 dollars all day long. i didn't care to explain it and just said man, did i get taken! but the reality is that it is hemp watership that has been worn pretty much daily by me for 4 years. it has been washed hundreds of times. it will probably last several years more and odds are the i will lose it before i wear it out. On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 6:33 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote: I finally finished the complete front brake job on the 240D today, but...it's still not braking quite right. On the highway, with hard braking, I get a pulsation. There is also quite a bit of squealing. Here's what I did good and bad: Good: I used genuine MB flexible hoses, grease seals, bearing grease, left front bearing set, left front steel brake line. I used scale to measure grease and dial indicator to set bearings. Bad: I used remanufactured calipers, duralast pads and duralast rotors. I did this in the interest of time. I should have been more patient and ordered the good stuff from Gary! I also did not torque the lug nuts but I did use the wimpy factory lug wrench which can't realistically apply too much torque. I also didn't step on it to tighten! I've never had an issue with this approach so I doubt that I warped the rotors but you never know. What could be going on? Literally everything was replaced! Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
On Aug 29, 2013, at 10:22 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote: and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often delivered in one or two business days. Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all I suppose. One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can? Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars? Do you provide a tracking number? Do you provide an email invoice with orders? Thanks, Rick Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all I suppose. One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can? Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars? Do you provide a tracking number? Do you provide an email invoice with orders? Thanks, Rick Unlike the baseless accusations made on this list, autohaus az does all that, except I am not sure about free shipping over X dollars. That was a perk offered by Rusty. OEM parts are available from autohaus az if you ask for them. NO problems so far. Since Q is no more, we are on our own, and I use several sources like I used to. FLAPS is good for some things, as Curt can attest. Dealers advertising in the Star for OE parts. AZ for the rest. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
usually i ship the best parts i can without regard to location. so, for example, i really like those previously mentioned dallas made R4 AC compressors, so i sent mike esh one of those even though i had access to really good air products compressors 200 miles from his home. i did this because he was ok with getting it next week. if he said he needed it today and didn't want to pay some freight, i'd have offered him the air products one out of chicago instead. if, however, all i had available in chicago were the ubiquitous chinese behrs i'd have warned them that those were not the best but would have shipped if he wanted them. i guess there is a lot of communication with the buyer so where it is shipped from is flexible, but generally i recommend quality over speed (but speed is possible for nearly all orders without additional charge with minor sacrifices in quality. i generally will not allow major sacrifices in quality though) i've always done free shipping over $99 but there is flexibility there. sometimes i'll give you partial discounts on shipping or even free shipping under 99. bill wachsmuth spent like 70 bucks on parts yesterday and the actual shipping was 10, but i charged him only 5. but as a general rule expect to pay some freight below 99 dollars and expect to pay none above that figure yes, i email tracking numbers when i know them i email invoices for those who want them. most of my business is conducted in email, so there is a record there and a formal invoice would be redundant. web orders automatically generate invoices. phone orders will nearly always have an invoice emailed so there is a clear record of the transaction. i mean, say you buy an air filter and then your car blows up 3 weeks later without it having been installed. how do i know how much to refund you on a return unless that clear record is created? On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 11:49 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.comwrote: On Aug 29, 2013, at 10:22 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote: and there often isn't even that much of a delay as parts are often delivered in one or two business days. Silly questions, that I would've asked off-list, but are pertinent to all I suppose. One, do you ship from a parts supplier nearest your customer if you can? Do you offer free shipping on orders over xxx dollars? Do you provide a tracking number? Do you provide an email invoice with orders? Thanks, Rick Sent from my iPhone ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars * *www.BuyEUROparts.com* ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)
Always replace calipers in pairs. I didn't once and had a terrible pull Has the car sat a lot? What you're looking at sounds an awful lot like my 240D last fall. It'd sat nearly a year and it was a BEAR to work on... -Curt Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 18:14:31 -0400 From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu Subject: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper) To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: m1iqg52blk.fsf...@cs.indiana.edu Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Well after accepting defeat at trying to find a rear caliper locally on a Sunday, I moved on to the fronts. BOTH calipers had rusted, siezed inboard pistons. And looking at the front rotors they seem to be going the way of the rears (look OK on the front side but badly rusted on the inboard surface (probably because the pistons are siezed and they're not getting any braking action on that side). So Monday it's going to be an order for new front rotors and calipers from Rusty. Fronts mean I need to repack the front bearings... ugh. I'm thinking I might as well replace that other rear caliper too, all the calipers are the same age (I was thinking two years but it might be three) just to avoid problems. I've never had calipers sieze up like that before on any other car, foreign or domestic. Wondering why these all went bad so quickly. Allan -- 1983 300D -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090831/e4f9c95a/attachment.html ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 10:00 -0700, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote: Has the car sat a lot? What you're looking at sounds an awful lot like my 240D last fall. It'd sat nearly a year and it was a BEAR to work on... Well, not that long. There was a period earlier this year where I did not drive it for maybe a month or so. And it was sitting outside during that time. That's actually when I started noticing brake problems, initially I thought it was just normal surface rust on the rotors but it never cleared up. Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)
Allan Streib wrote: I've never had calipers sieze up like that before on any other car, foreign or domestic. Wondering why these all went bad so quickly. Dust boots installed and in good shape? Using water instead of brake fluid? -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)
I've never had calipers sieze up like that before on any other car, foreign or domestic. Wondering why these all went bad so quickly. Been driving on salted winter roads? Since they've started salting here, which they did not do when I first moved here, many things automotive are much worse than they were. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco (was: grrr. siezed caliper)
Common problem on a previously neglected Benz -- failure to replace the rotors when they are too thin. On the W126 and prior chassis, all the calipers have an anti-rattle spring on top, and when the rotors are too thin and the pads are badly worn, the backing plate will hit the spring. This cocks the piston, and since the inside pads usually wear faster than the outers, the pistons get stuck and can rust in place after they overheat and fry the dust boot. I've had this on three or four cars already -- and on my Volvo with the same ATE rear calipers. They are not American rotors, which are way over-thick so that they last the lifetime of the car and can be resurfaced. Worse, sometimes people turn the rotors on a Benz to save money, and that makes the problem worse. Do, also, change fluid every two years or when you change pads -- very easy with a MitiVac. Old fluid collects water and promotes corrosion and the presence of crud, which will also lock the pistons up. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net writes: Common problem on a previously neglected Benz -- failure to replace the rotors when they are too thin. This could explain the rears -- I did not put new rotors on when I installed the calipers last time. On the fronts, though, the rotors and calipers were new together. I'm with Jim, it's probably the winter salt, but I don't understand why none of my other cars have had this problem. They all get driven in the salt. Allan -- 1983 300D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Brake fiasco
It is odd. In the future, may I suggest what my buddy the mechanic does? When he does an oil change for a customer he pulls all the brake pads, cleans up the calipers, and puts a bit of anti-seize on the sides of the backing plates. Of course, he has the car on a lift, so it's easy, and takes just about the same amount of time it takes for the oil to all drain out. Does a quick underside inspection, too -- brakes, driveline, suspension parts, etc. I try to remember to do this on the 300D, as the rear brakes tend to rust into place otherwise. I'd forgotten earlier to mention this -- always coat the sides of the backing plate (not the friction material, of course) with some MB brake paste or anti-seize (the same thing). Make absolutely positive that the slots the pads fit into a completely rust free and clean, as otherwise the pads can rust into place or jam on the crud, causing them to drag. Dragging causes them to overheat, and that kills the rubber dust boot, so the piston gets stuck from grit. Not really a big deal, and much less hassle than all new calipers. I do also recommend changing the brake fluid often. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com