RE: Apple Mac Quadra 700

[Wesley Furr]

I had (well, sorta still have) a IIci and a IIcx I picked up some years back
at a thrift store cheap.  Unfortunately that was before I learned of the
dangers of leaking batteries...you can probably guess where this is
leading...not much left of them.  More recently I got a IIcx motherboard
from someone and re-capped it, but still couldn't get it to work...gave up
on it for the time being.  Might have to take another stab at it some
day...but not sure what else to try.  As I recall, the only real difference
in the II's and 700 is that the II's are set up to be in desktop orientation
and the 700 as a tower?  All personal preference...  :-)
 
I have re-capped a couple of old Macs, mainly LC and LCII's so far.  I found
that the MLCC (multilayer ceramic) capacitors work very well.  Nice and
small (but not too small) with plenty of pad on the board to make them very
easy to solder on.  Also no polarity to worry about.  Sounds like they may
be more reliable than even the tantalum capacitors.  I know what you mean,
shipping is the worst part!  The last ones I got I picked some up from
ebay...US sellers selling some off of a reel or whatever...prices and
shipping both better than from Mouser/Digikey/etc.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Thomas Pfaff
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2020 8:01 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Apple Mac Quadra 700


Hi.  Yep am planning on moving to tantalum in my IIci.
I understood your reply completely... so thank you!

When I worked at Ample Computerz I bought a Quadra 900 among other
machines... they were cheap for employeez.
Turned out they were cheap all around- the case was always falling apart and
meh... so I had planned on getting a Quadra 700 myself.
I quit working there out of disgust gravitated to NeXT work afterward
coz both their hardware+OS software was so much better.  Not to mention NeXT
programmers did less work and were paid a lot more than their Mac
counterparts, by and large, due to the scarcity of Objective-C developers.


Anyway, I found a IIci for next to nothing recently, then remembered the
first Mac I did engineering work on was a IIci (at Everex) and kinda fell in
love with it.
I like the case better than the Quadra 700... even tho' they are nearly
identical.
It's like the Star Trek where Spock says to the two identical chick robots,
"I love you... but I hate you!"
Or something like that.  Hmm.  I don't hate the 700 tho'.  :-)  I do prefer
the IIfx and the IIci models right now.


I have a tentative order in at Mouser for tantalum caps but want to line up
a few more projects coz of the shipping costs!  

Hope I can get that machine working by January.

Incidentally, does anyone have a installed image of A/UX 3.0?  A/UX 2.0?  I
was stupid enough to sell my copy of both, which I got when I was at Ample.
That's what I really want to run again on my Mac II series models.  A/UX 3.x
runs zippity quick on the Quadras but just think the earlier models are
cuter.


Thomas


On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 12:35 PM  wrote:


I have a Q700 I picked up at a recycling center and tried a while back  
to get working, but didn't have any luck, but also didn't spend much  
time on it, could be a bad power supply.  At any rate, my recollection  
is that on the one I had at least, the capacitors on the motherboard  
were all the yellow tantalum capacitors, not the silver can  
electrolytic type that fail and leak in the well-known fashion.   
Tantalum capacitors can fail too, I have seen it happen on at least  
two older PC's (I assume it could happen on Macs too)...and they  
either fail silently and likely short out, or they can explode (blow  
the top off) in an impressive pop...I have observed one of each, and  
when they blow, they get your attention.  :-)  But to your original  
question, if it is like mine, and I'm guessing it would be, they are  
the more reliable tantalum capacitors that should not need replacement.

Wesley


Quoting Thomas Pfaff :

> Curious... do you know if the capacitors on the Quadra 700 mamaboard do
> better than the ones in the IIci and such?  Capacitors from the pre-china
> days tend to have very long lifespans but Apple got  an early start on
> shipping "lesser componentry" on their boards.
>
> Thomas


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FS: IIci, IIcx, Quadra 700 "Feet"

[Wesley Furr]

Quite some time ago, someone somewhere expressed an interest in finding some
rubber "feet" for a IIci, IIcx, or Quadra 700.  I went through what I had
and found two I could part with...then never heard back from that person.
Now I'm trying to clean off my desk and find them still hanging around.
Sounds like they are rather uncommon.  How about $5 each shipped?  If you
feel that's too high, I'm certainly open to offers.
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley Furr
Bridgewater, VA 22812

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Re: Alternatives to official Apple ADB peripherals?

[Wesley Furr]

Have you seen the ADB-USB Wombat? 
https://www.bigmessowires.com/usb-wombat/  Not sure how that compares to
prices on ADB keyboards and mice...

Wesley


On Tue, December 4, 2018 11:13 am, Christian Wacker wrote:
> I'm trying to revive my old Mac Classic that I've had kicking around for
> a few years. I lost all my peripherals in a flood a few summers back, so
> I'm
> starting from scratch when it comes to a keyboard and mouse. The prices
> that people are asking on ebay for an apple Keyboard or mouse are a bit
> more than I want to pay just to play around on my old Mac. Are there any
> more affordable alternatives to the official Apple hardware? Are there
> adapters that are available so I can use a standard PC keyboard or other
> non-ADB equipment?
>
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Re: Source of surface mount electrolytic caps

[Wesley Furr]

The couple that I have done, I have used the smaller MLCC capacitors. 
They are a bit more expensive, but should last much longer than
electrolytic.  As a bonus, I find them much easier to solder since most of
the pad is still sticking out to touch with your soldering iron.  They
also don't have a polarity, so not even a need to figure out which way
they should go.  I know other folks have used tantalum capacitors, which
should be equally easy to solder, but do have a polarity.  If you need a
more exact part #, I can dig up what I have purchased in the past.

Wesley


On Fri, August 24, 2018 9:12 am, John-Robert La Porta wrote:
> Anyone have a good source of replacement electrolytic surface mount caps?
> I
> don't want to always replace with radial or axial mount ones...but the
> surface mount seem hard to find.


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RE: Question on building custom old Mac

[Wesley Furr]

If you are building your own case for everything, I would consider taking an
LCD monitor and taking the guts out of it, then you could build it into your
case however you would like.  Also wouldn't have to worry as much about
venting due to lack of heat and such.  Of course it wouldn't look as
vintage, but it won't look much that way anyhow in a homebrew case...
Should be able to pick up a 15 or 17" LCD at a thrift store pretty cheap
these days...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of John-Robert La Porta
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2018 6:04 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Question on building custom old Mac


Now for finding the monitor: been looking for something reasonable to attach
this thing to. The Apple 15" Studio Display w/ VGA connector seems to go for
some serious cash for some reason, so that is out. Most PC monitors look
like crap, and I'd have to revamp them to make them look decent. Not sure I
want to take a huge dive on to that. One person suggested an old iMac G4
display, but I think that would be a lot of work to make it run w/ a VGA
signal (if even possible). 

I'll reach out to you all for suggestions.

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RE: RE: Personal Laser Writer

[Wesley Furr]

Yeah, very true...the java-based models are annoying.  If you don't mind
using text commands, which aren't that hard, it is much easier to configure
via the command line than it is to get a proper (and insecure) java version
working.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: 'Gregg Eshelman' via Vintage Macs
[mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2018 5:46 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: RE: Personal Laser Writer


That could work, but something to watch out for is older JetDirect servers,
both the external and MIO slot, and some EIO slot versions use JAVA. Thus
you must have JAVA support in a web browser to configure them GUI style. No
JAVA support on yer fancy new operating system or smartphone? You get to
learn to use a terminal program. Later JetDirects and printers with built in
servers use something-not-JAVA that works with web browsers that don't have
JAVA support.


On Tuesday, July 3, 2018, 5:50:00 AM MDT, Wesley Furr 
wrote: 

Netatalk sharing won't work with newer Macs?
 
How about an external HP JetDirect print server with a parallel port?  I
would expect they are pretty cheap on the used market these days...
 
Wesley

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RE: Personal Laser Writer

[Wesley Furr]

Netatalk sharing won't work with newer Macs?
 
How about an external HP JetDirect print server with a parallel port?  I
would expect they are pretty cheap on the used market these days...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Scott Holmes
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2018 12:15 AM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Personal Laser Writer


PLW NT / NTR - here we have some possibilities. Both support PostScript,
serial and LocalTalk.  The NTR is faster and also has a parallel interface.
In the old days, a Linux box running Netatalk
 and a suitable ethernet to LocalTalk
bridge or router would have had these up and shared on the network via the
linux machine.  May be able to use via parallel or serial, but slow.


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RE: Looking for new floppy discs

[Wesley Furr]

Keep an eye out at local thrift stores, I see them turn up from time to
time.  I've started buying them whenever I find them that aren't too
expensive, as I know they are no longer being made.

The Vintage Computer Forums have a "wanted" section, you could try there too
-http://www.vcfed.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?29-Vintage-Computer-Items-Wante
d

Ebay would be another option, and even Amazon probably has some, though they
would be used or NOS.

Wesley
 

-Original Message-

Good morning,

I need a source for new floppy discs. I use a Sony Mavica camera which takes
photos onto floppies which I then can put on my 1999 Apple desktop computer.
I have had no luck in sourcing new floppies but am sure there is still a
need for them & am thinking someplace has them. Any leads appreciated. 

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RE: Looking for new floppy discs

[Wesley Furr]

Oddball digital cameras are something I have an interest in...and I have a
couple of the Mavica's, one of which does indeed have a memory card slot.
Another fancier and earlier model I have supports a 3.5" to Memory Stick
adapter, though I don't think that one was a "FlashPath", I think that was
the name for the SmartMedia (SSFDC, or "Solid State Floppy Disk Card")
adapter "disk".  I also have a Mavica that uses mini CD-R/CD-RW's.  Then
there's the Agfa camera that uses 40Mb Iomega "Clik!" / "PocketZip", and the
Panasonic that uses LS-120 disks.  But...I digress...  The most likely
reason for not making one with a 2.88Mb drive is that so few computers had
such a drive.  The appeal of the Mavica was easy transfer, plus a cheap
storage medium...not an easy transfer if your computer doesn't support the
disk, plus I imagine they were substantially more expensive.  Personally, I
always thought they were ugly and clunky, plus low quality images, mainly in
order to fit more than a couple onto a disk.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: 'Gregg Eshelman' via Vintage Macs
[mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2017 8:36 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Looking for new floppy discs


Mavica floppy disk cameras used 1.44M. Some of the later ones could use
Memory Stick in a FlashPath adapter. IIRC the last one or two of that line
had a separate slot for the Memory Stick. Dunno why Sony never made a 2.88M
Mavica.


 

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RE: TONS of old apple hardware and software

[Wesley Furr]

A friend worked at a local college in their arts department at a time when
they were using Jaz drives, pretty sure that was the System 9 era...but I
couldn't tell you for sure.  Just googled it...section 5 here -
http://www.ntanet.net/nta/Jaz.html - indicates System 7.x support.  I would
assume that is Jaz 1Gb support...not sure if 2Gb drives would be the same...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of james.z...@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 3:19 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: TONS of old apple hardware and software


Interesting, any idea which system this will work on? System 7, 8, 9?

Sent from my iPad

On 12 Jul 2017, at 3:59 am, Wesley Furr <wes...@megley.com> wrote:



Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Jaz drive uses more of
a removable hard disk type cartridge rather than a floppy disk type of
medium...more like the old Syquest drives...which may not mean anything to
you either!  Jaz drives were available in 1Gb (and later 2Gb) capacities,
compared to 100Mb/250Mb/750Mb of ZIP drives.  Otherwise similar in function.
 
Ah...here we go - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaz_drive
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of james.z...@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 4:07 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: TONS of old apple hardware and software


Cool, never used a jazz drive how does that differ to the zip?




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RE: TONS of old apple hardware and software

[Wesley Furr]

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the Jaz drive uses more of
a removable hard disk type cartridge rather than a floppy disk type of
medium...more like the old Syquest drives...which may not mean anything to
you either!  Jaz drives were available in 1Gb (and later 2Gb) capacities,
compared to 100Mb/250Mb/750Mb of ZIP drives.  Otherwise similar in function.
 
Ah...here we go - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaz_drive
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of james.z...@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 4:07 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: TONS of old apple hardware and software


Cool, never used a jazz drive how does that differ to the zip?

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RE: Quick question about Mac Plus 1MB

[Wesley Furr]

Here's one that looks to be very easy to do for a Mac Plus:
 
https://github.com/trekawek/mac-plus-ps2
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Charlie Frown
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 4:34 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Quick question about Mac Plus 1MB


there's also Arduino based solution that allows you to use PS/2 keyboard. 

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RE: PSU failure on 8100

[Wesley Furr]

Don't know much about that series of Mac...but in looking online, doesn't
look like it is a stock standard type (AT/ATX/etc) power supply.  May be
able to re-wire an ATX power supply, though the power-on part might be a
challenge.  Probably worth pulling the cover off and having a look inside -
could just be a blown capacitor or something easily replaced.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Ander
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 7:55 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: PSU failure on 8100


So I just plugged in a 8100 that is 20 years old. POP goes the PSU. A few
bang noises very very little smoke.
I guess repairing these isn't worth it.
If I want to get a replacement from a PC, what would I be looking for?
The PSU in the machine is a Delta Electronics DPS-225AB


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RE: Printer woes (OT?)

[Wesley Furr]

I'm sure someone else can help better than I can, but my guess is you may
need to go in search of a used one that will work with OS9.

Do you by chance have any PDF creator software on the iMac?  Perhaps you
could print to PDF, then transfer the PDF to a newer computer (assuming you
have one) and print the PDF from there...

Wesley


-Original Message-

Greetings from western Canada,

I need to use some software that is on my 1999 iMac running OS9 that I can
not install on a newer Mac.  However I do not have a printer that will work
for this machine & the computer store just laughed at me when I asked if
they had one. Any leads as to where I can buy one or even what kind to look
for?

tia, and my apologies if this doesn't qualify as Vintage.

Sharron

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RE: Would you plug in a powermac after 17+ years?

[Wesley Furr]

I would pop the cover and glance inside, make sure there's nothing obviously
going on...like a mouse nest, metal pieces rattling around loose, etc.
Aside from that, I don't know of any reason not to just give it a try.  Only
ones I've heard of needing to do something special are some of the *really*
old machines like the IMSAI or Altair where folks talk about reforming
capacitors and such...but what you're talking about it so much more modern
than that!  Check for the obvious and go give it a try!
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Ander
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2017 7:44 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Would you plug in a powermac after 17+ years?


I guess there's a high chance the capacitors have leaked in this time.
Any pre-turning it on checks on the machine?



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RE: "Sticky" 80Mb Quantum Drives

[Wesley Furr]

I may have to try the upside-down trick...would be nice to at least copy off
what is on it...or at least the Lemmings game that my wife likes...lol...
:-)  As for freezing, believe it or not, that trick helped me recover data
from a more modern laptop hard drive some years back.  Didn't leave it
overnight, but long enough that it probably was frozen all the way through.
Worked great just long enough to get stuff off, then it was done for and
wouldn't come back.  Certainly not recommended other than as a last-ditch
effort!
 
I may have to give it a try repairing it...hopefully after getting a few
files off.  Have a few other of those drives around too, at least one I know
I killed trying to resurrect it...that might be a good one to play with to
see what I need to do on one that might still be repairable.  What part did
you use - part of a wiper blade?  
 
Could you re-post the link to the clean room box?  It did not seem to make
it through in your email...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: 'Keith Jamison' via Vintage Macs
[mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2017 7:29 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: "Sticky" 80Mb Quantum Drives


Hi Wesley,

Short answer is no.

Here's the reason why.

There is a rubber bump stop on the inside. The rubber deteriorates over time
and becomes sticky.

Only way to fix it is to open the drive, dismantle the drive magnet which
controls the movement of the arm on which the read/write heads ride.

Then carefully clean off the gooey rubber gunk and use a good cleaning fluid
- IsoPropyl Alcohol works fine - and remove all traces of the gunk. This
take time as the gunk sticks to everything, including your skin, your
clothes and anything else it comes into contact with. If any gunk touches
the driver platter, it's game over.

I have successfully cleaned a Quantum drive of the gunk and I used a piece
of hose for a car's windshield washer system to make a new bump stop. The
drive works flawlessly. In fact, it didn't work when I first switched on the
LCIII in which it was installed - The wrong System Enabler had been
installed. As soon as I swapped the LC475 enabler for a LCIII enabler, it
booted into 7.1 without issue.


The whole procedure should take place in a clean environment - this guy
shows how to build one cheaply - but given the storage capacity of the
drive, the drive is less likely to crash compared to a modern drive. The
magnetized area is much larger in comparison to a modern drive.

It's a pity that you only got the one go out of it before the sticky problem
stopped it working.

But with a little bit of courage and a few hours, you can make it work
again.

Have a can of airduster on hand to keep contaminants to a minimum as you
replace the lid and tighten the screws.

I haven't used mine in a few weeks but I would like to build the clean room
box and give it a thorough cleaning before using it frequently.

Hope this helps,

Keith



  _  

From: Wesley Furr <wes...@megley.com>
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, 18 February 2017, 22:18
Subject: "Sticky" 80Mb Quantum Drives


Well...Murphy has struck.  Someone gave me a Mac Classic II a year or so
ago, and it worked great.  But, I pulled it apart, knowing it would need
capacitors replaced.  I removed the old ones and cleaned it up, then set it
aside.  Finally got around to installing new caps recently, and today I put
it back together and fired it up, worked great.  Spent a little time messing
with it and playing a game, then shut it down.  Went to fire it back up, and
I get the flashing "?" floppy icon.  Crap.  Sounds like the drive is
spinning up, then down, then maybe up and down again, but not hearing the
chatter of the heads moving.  I didn't look closely and haven't opened it
back up, but it looked like the bottom of a Quantum drive, and I know it was
80Mb.  My recollection from the past is that those drives are famous for
allowing the heads to hang up in the parked position.  Aside from pulling
the cover and manually releasing the heads (obviously only good for a
last-ditch effort to recover data), has anyone found or heard of any tricks
to bring those drives back to life?
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 
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"Sticky" 80Mb Quantum Drives

[Wesley Furr]

Well...Murphy has struck.  Someone gave me a Mac Classic II a year or so
ago, and it worked great.  But, I pulled it apart, knowing it would need
capacitors replaced.  I removed the old ones and cleaned it up, then set it
aside.  Finally got around to installing new caps recently, and today I put
it back together and fired it up, worked great.  Spent a little time messing
with it and playing a game, then shut it down.  Went to fire it back up, and
I get the flashing "?" floppy icon.  Crap.  Sounds like the drive is
spinning up, then down, then maybe up and down again, but not hearing the
chatter of the heads moving.  I didn't look closely and haven't opened it
back up, but it looked like the bottom of a Quantum drive, and I know it was
80Mb.  My recollection from the past is that those drives are famous for
allowing the heads to hang up in the parked position.  Aside from pulling
the cover and manually releasing the heads (obviously only good for a
last-ditch effort to recover data), has anyone found or heard of any tricks
to bring those drives back to life?
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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IIcx Powers on, but no Signs of Life

[Wesley Furr]

I have a IIcx whose motherboard got destroyed by a leaking battery.  I
acquired a motherboard for it that was of unknown condition.  Clearly needed
capacitors, so I removed them soon after receiving it, but then haven't
gotten around to working on it since then.  I think I posted some questions
here a while back about a bad trace.  I managed to patch that back up and
the volt meter indicates it has continuity through that point now, so I
think that is good.  One other trace looks questionable, but doesn't look
too bad...and I'm having trouble figuring out where to put the meter to test
it out to see for sure.  I then replaced all the surface mount capacitors
and tried it out.  With only power connected, I can push the button on the
back and it powers up, but I do not get a chime.  Tried connecting a VGA
monitor to the 8-24-GC video card via an adapter, but still nothing.  If I
press the reset button on the front, I can hear a slight noise out of the
speaker like it is resetting.  Tried the power supply out of a Quadra 700
that I have sitting here (that doesn't work either, I forget the symptoms
now), but it behaves the same way.  Tried pulling half the ram, swapped it
with the other half, no dice either way.  Unplugged all drives...everything
I could think of to try...  Video card chips get warm, CPU does not seem to
be getting warm.
 
It does not have a PRAM battery installed, but I understand that is not
required for the IIcx to function?
 
What are the odds that one of the axial electrolytic capacitors is causing
this problem?  I have not replaced those yet.  I hesitate to throw any more
time and money at it unless I'm fairly confident I can get it going...
 
Any other thoughts?
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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Re: Mac iici. In great working condition

[Wesley Furr]

I had a IIci and a IIcx like that...then found them eaten alive by the
stupid batteries...  :-(

Wesley


On Fri, February 10, 2017 1:02 pm, NODEraser wrote:
> I may have one lurking in the basement; I have a pile of various Mac
> IIs but it's been a few years since I've tried starting any of them
> up.


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Re: Phone Net Questions

[Wesley Furr]

There are enough wires that it should be possible (though maybe a little
ugly) to terminate at station one, go to the basement, patch through that
pair to station two, then use a 2nd pair of wires in that cable for a
"return" from station two, then patch that to the wire to the 3rd station
and terminate at that end...if that makes sense.  Then, aside from some
strange wiring, it would be as through it is running end to end in a
line...

Wesley


On Fri, October 7, 2016 9:45 am, theonetruestick...@gmail.com wrote:
> I don't have experience with passive star, but if you only have two
> devices it should work fine. Phonenet does only use one pair, but it's the
> 2nd pair
> on a normal two-pair phone line, so you will need 4-wire phone cords into
> your phone jacks. Just make sure pair 2 is wired together at your
> punch-down/ terminal block.
>
> Are you using the phone lines for actual telephone also?
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 7, 2016 at 8:50 AM, Louis Ciotti  wrote:
>
>
>> So my house phone wiring all goes to one location in the basement,
>> nothing is daisy chained.  I have not actually counted the number of
>> pairs, but I believe they used CAT 5 so it has 4 pairs.  Looking at the
>> phone-net instructions, it looks like I only need one pair. Is this
>> correct?  If that is the case what I want to do is use the house wires
>> to network my old SE/30 in one room to my Centris in another room.  I
>> know that is what phone-net was make for, I just want to verify that I
>> understand the wiring.  It looks like I would build what is called a
>> passive star if I were to add more nodes to this.  What are the limits
>> on a passive star?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.  I never dealt with apple talk/phone net before, so
>> I
>> am probably over thinking this!
>>
>> Lou
>>
>>
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RE: Image Writer II - best place to buy ribbons?

[Wesley Furr]

Are you looking for color or black?  I've got a bunch of NOS black ones
around here somewhere...put one in a few years ago and it seemed OK for the
little bit that I printed with it.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of kristen.r...@gmail.com
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2016 1:07 AM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Image Writer II - best place to buy ribbons?


I'm looking to get a new ribbon for a recently purchased ImageWriter II.
There are a lot of options out there, and wanted to see if anyone has
purchased any recently, and might have a recommendation on where I might buy
them

thanks!


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RE: CanoScan FS 2710 software

[Wesley Furr]

I was going to try to download it...but their web site doesn't list anything
older than OS8...yet it clearly should work as the specs page says "Mac OS
7.5x,7.6x, 8.x"  Odd they don't have the older driver listed...

Wesley


-Original Message-
From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Robert Hesson
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 8:13 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: CanoScan FS 2710 software

7.5 on my quadra 650

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 11, 2016, at 7:58 PM, Wesley Furr <wes...@megley.com> wrote:
> 
> What OS version are you running?  Their web site also says "There is 
> no driver for the OS Version you selected. The driver may be included 
> in your OS or you may not need a driver." when I picked OSX...have you 
> tried to see if it would work without the disk?
> 
> Wesley
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> I have my system all set to scan a ton of old 35mm slides and I can't 
> find the disk for the scanner. The link on canon's website appears to be
broken.
> 
> Anyone have this scanner software or a disk image of it? Need it badly.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
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RE: CanoScan FS 2710 software

[Wesley Furr]

What OS version are you running?  Their web site also says "There is no
driver for the OS Version you selected. The driver may be included in your
OS or you may not need a driver." when I picked OSX...have you tried to see
if it would work without the disk?

Wesley


-Original Message-

I have my system all set to scan a ton of old 35mm slides and I can't find
the disk for the scanner. The link on canon's website appears to be broken.

Anyone have this scanner software or a disk image of it? Need it badly.

Thanks.

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RE: Mac Classic boot problem

[Wesley Furr]

I found a mess under the through-hole electrolytic caps on an LC series
power supply too...was quite surprised as I'd not seen that before in other
equipment I've worked on.  I don't remember it being as liquid-looking as
your photo, but it was sure enough there...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Hardware Mack
Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2016 6:32 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Mac Classic boot problem


the classic a/b, some of the time you cant even tell they are leaking until
you remove em.
(photo from 68kmla.org)  i haven't met a Classic I or Classic II A/B that
didn't really need caps

 



On Mar 9, 2016, at 6:13 PM, j...@cimmeri.com wrote:



You don't know whether he has a load on the PSU.

On 3/9/2016 5:34 PM, Hardware Mack wrote:


sounds pretty low... on the 12v side.


and 5v side too!



can you meter those with the hd spinning?  or does the hd not even spin up.



Charles





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Re: Mac Classic boot problem

[Wesley Furr]

I understand that is the method Charles (Mr. MacCaps himself) uses with
good success...that's how I learned it.  I've done several that way with
no problems so far...one or two were at least medium-ugly from the leaks. 
On the other hand, I pulled a pad loose on one fighting with it trying to
use the de-solder method.  If you don't like the grip & twist method, the
other route I've done that works (but is still more work) is using wire
cutters to cut them off at the base, then extract the remains...though I
worry a bit about that because the cutting process seems to pull upwards,
which may or may not be a problem...

Wesley


On Fri, March 4, 2016 1:08 pm, Louis Ciotti wrote:
> Grabbing and twisting just seem like the pad will get ripped off,
> especially on a board that is slightly damaged from a leaky cap.
>
> On Fri, Mar 4, 2016 at 1:03 PM, Wesley Furr <wes...@megley.com> wrote:
>
>
>> Sounds good to me...but of course you're working from my play book.
>> :-)
>> Removing the caps like that makes me nervous, but I've not yet had a
>> problem...and it's so much easier and faster.  Make sure you keep
>> twisting and not pulling up after it starts coming loose...if a leg is
>> hanging on, that could more easily cause damage to the pad than the
>> sideways twisting...or so it seems to me anyway.
>>
>> Wesley
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, March 4, 2016 12:10 pm, Stephen Collins wrote:
>>
>>> I have inspected around the caps, and see no evidence of leakage.
>>> Regardless I think they are weak, and it's probably a matter of time.
>>> Here's the procedure I'm going with (via Wesley above).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Capacitor replacement:
>>> - Grab cap with pliers, push down & twist
>>> - Clean area with isopropyl and q-tips
>>> - Add flux, remove legs with soldering iron
>>> - Clean again
>>> - Use braid to wick remaining solder on pad
>>> - Clean again
>>> - Flow solder onto 1st pad
>>> - Hold component in position and heat pad
>>> - Solder in the other side
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 10:57:24 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:50 AM, Stephen Collins
>>>>> <stephen@gmail.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Ok will do. Not as nervous about the surface mount repair since I
>>>>>  looked
>>>> at Dave Jones' EEVlog video on the topic. Thanks for the help
>>>> everyone. Fingers crossed!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Just be sure to CLEAN ti well. Not only the general surface but
>>>> clean as much crust from the pads as possible. Use a high percentage
>>>> isopropyl or an acetone/IPA mix. I like to tin the pads, place the
>>>> cap on top, then heat each lead until it sucks down to the pad.
>>>>
>>>> Here is a good picture of a leaked cap (C8) on an SE/30:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.applefool.com/applefool/Macintosh_SE_30_%28Soldered%29_f
>>>> iles /Media/DSC06831/DSC06831.jpg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Here is a good picture of a replacement cap (C69) on an Quadra
>>>> 840AV
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.applefool.com/applefool/Quadra_840av_files/Media/DSC0704
>>>> 7/DS
>>>> C07047.jpg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> - Dylan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> --
>>> -
>>> You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs
>>>  group. The list FAQ is at
>>> http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml
>>>
>> and
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>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>

Re: Mac Classic boot problem

[Wesley Furr]

Sounds good to me...but of course you're working from my play book.  :-) 
Removing the caps like that makes me nervous, but I've not yet had a
problem...and it's so much easier and faster.  Make sure you keep twisting
and not pulling up after it starts coming loose...if a leg is hanging on,
that could more easily cause damage to the pad than the sideways
twisting...or so it seems to me anyway.

Wesley


On Fri, March 4, 2016 12:10 pm, Stephen Collins wrote:
> I have inspected around the caps, and see no evidence of leakage.
> Regardless I think they are weak, and it's probably a matter of time.
> Here's the procedure I'm going with (via Wesley above).
>
>
> Capacitor replacement:
> - Grab cap with pliers, push down & twist
> - Clean area with isopropyl and q-tips
> - Add flux, remove legs with soldering iron
> - Clean again
> - Use braid to wick remaining solder on pad
> - Clean again
> - Flow solder onto 1st pad
> - Hold component in position and heat pad
> - Solder in the other side
>
>
>
> On Friday, March 4, 2016 at 10:57:24 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:50 AM, Stephen Collins >>
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Ok will do. Not as nervous about the surface mount repair since I
>>> looked
>> at Dave Jones' EEVlog video on the topic. Thanks for the help everyone.
>>  Fingers crossed!
>>
>>
>> Just be sure to CLEAN ti well. Not only the general surface but clean
>> as much crust from the pads as possible. Use a high percentage isopropyl
>> or an acetone/IPA mix. I like to tin the pads, place the cap on top,
>> then heat each lead until it sucks down to the pad.
>>
>> Here is a good picture of a leaked cap (C8) on an SE/30:
>>
>>
>> http://www.applefool.com/applefool/Macintosh_SE_30_%28Soldered%29_files
>> /Media/DSC06831/DSC06831.jpg
>>
>>
>> Here is a good picture of a replacement cap (C69) on an Quadra 840AV
>>
>>
>> http://www.applefool.com/applefool/Quadra_840av_files/Media/DSC07047/DS
>> C07047.jpg
>>
>>
>> - Dylan
>>
>
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> group. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and
> our netiquette guide is at
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RE: Mac Classic boot problem

[Wesley Furr]

Also, if anyone is interested, I've got some electrolytics SMD caps here
I'll make you a good deal on.  I bought them and struggled with installing
them, then went for the MLCC's and never looked back.  I'd have to look to
see what I have, but they would all be 1/10/47/100uf's.  One of those values
I somehow ended up with ones that were physically too large...so those are
probably worthless to anyone here...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Wesley Furr
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2016 7:11 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Mac Classic boot problem


Here are part #'s and links to same on mouser.com that I bought for the
couple LC's I re-worked.  Not sure which of those are used in the
Classic...be sure ratings and voltages match before ordering.  What I would
suggest is going to mouser.com (or wherever you prefer) and searching for
the capacitance and voltage, such as "6.3v 100uf" for example.  Then filter
down...select Capacitors, then MLCC's, then SMD/SMT, then sort by pricing to
find the cheapest option (cheapest one with minimum purchase quantity of
one).  Something to consider is case size, here's a good reference:
 
http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_Capacitors_Size.html
 
Width doesn't matter quite so much as length, though I think any of them
will be long enough to pretty much touch the pads on either side.  For
example, here's the first one on my list:
 
80-C1210C107M9P 
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C1210C107M9PACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQHfJxnYD9SALBQq9sfXwQCA%3d
 
When I went back through and searched for the same as described above, I
came up with a 1206 (slightly narrower package) with a Murata brand name for
$0.55 vs. the $0.94 of the one I previously purchased.  Prices on these
things are always changing, so I would suggest going through and searching
for yourself rather than blindly buying what I bought...but that's your
call.  :-)  If you have more machines to re-cap more machines, you may want
to search ebay...I picked up some from there - I think 100uf and 47uf's, and
they were a good bit cheaper...at the time at least.  I think the 10uf's
were cheap enough in quantity that I went ahead and bought 100 from Mouser.
Anyway, I'll list the other three sizes as I previously bought and leave you
to it...let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to help further.
 
80-C1210C476M4P
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C1210C476M4PACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQDwCBfu%2fbu6OAceCbaedIIw%3d
 
80-C1206C106K4P
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C1206C106K4PACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQF9UlR6G5k34707VIeRqfBw%3d
 
80-C1206C105K5R
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C1206C105K5RACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQKLP9quIYhdRZscoGk%2f4rK8%3d
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Stephen Collins
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 5:30 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Mac Classic boot problem


Do you have a link for the capacitor? I'm new to surface mount soldering.
Thanks!

On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 2:41:46 PM UTC-6, Wesley wrote: 

Here's a post I made elsewhere about my method of doing it: 

http://www.vintage-computer.
<http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?50961-SE-30-Re-cap
=400201=#post400201>
com/vcforum/showthread.php?50961-SE-30-Re-cap=400201=#post400201


If the link doesn't work, let me know and I can just re-post it here. 

As noted there, I'm a huge fan of the MLCC capacitors - they seem to be 
much easier to work with soldering them into place, and they should last a 
LONG time...and even if they don't, they won't leak!  :-) 

Wesley 



On Wed, March 2, 2016 1:04 pm, Stephen Collins wrote: 
> Hmm, I was afraid that would be the recommendation. I'm comfortable with 
> soldering through-hole mounted stuff but everything (except cpu) here is 
> surface mounted. Any links to a guide on this? 
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 11:36:17 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote: 
> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:00 AM, Stephen Collins <stephen@gmail.com 
>>> 
>> > wrote: 
>> 
>>> 
>>> I cleaned the internals and system board using a can of compressed 
>>> air, 
>> but so far no water or chemicals. What should I do next? 
>> 
>> Recap the logic board. If it's never had the capacitors replaced, it 
>> needs it. No question. 
>> 
>> - Dylan 
>> 
> 
> -- 
> -- 
> - 
> You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs 
> group. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/
<http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml> vintagemacs.shtml and 
> our netiquette guide is at 
> http://www.lowendmac.com/
<http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtm

RE: Mac Classic boot problem

[Wesley Furr]

Here are part #'s and links to same on mouser.com that I bought for the
couple LC's I re-worked.  Not sure which of those are used in the
Classic...be sure ratings and voltages match before ordering.  What I would
suggest is going to mouser.com (or wherever you prefer) and searching for
the capacitance and voltage, such as "6.3v 100uf" for example.  Then filter
down...select Capacitors, then MLCC's, then SMD/SMT, then sort by pricing to
find the cheapest option (cheapest one with minimum purchase quantity of
one).  Something to consider is case size, here's a good reference:
 
http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_Capacitors_Size.html
 
Width doesn't matter quite so much as length, though I think any of them
will be long enough to pretty much touch the pads on either side.  For
example, here's the first one on my list:
 
80-C1210C107M9P 
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C1210C107M9PACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQHfJxnYD9SALBQq9sfXwQCA%3d
 
When I went back through and searched for the same as described above, I
came up with a 1206 (slightly narrower package) with a Murata brand name for
$0.55 vs. the $0.94 of the one I previously purchased.  Prices on these
things are always changing, so I would suggest going through and searching
for yourself rather than blindly buying what I bought...but that's your
call.  :-)  If you have more machines to re-cap more machines, you may want
to search ebay...I picked up some from there - I think 100uf and 47uf's, and
they were a good bit cheaper...at the time at least.  I think the 10uf's
were cheap enough in quantity that I went ahead and bought 100 from Mouser.
Anyway, I'll list the other three sizes as I previously bought and leave you
to it...let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to help further.
 
80-C1210C476M4P
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C1210C476M4PACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQDwCBfu%2fbu6OAceCbaedIIw%3d
 
80-C1206C106K4P
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C1206C106K4PACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQF9UlR6G5k34707VIeRqfBw%3d
 
80-C1206C105K5R
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C1206C105K5RACTU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs0A
nBnWHyRQKLP9quIYhdRZscoGk%2f4rK8%3d
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Stephen Collins
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 5:30 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Mac Classic boot problem


Do you have a link for the capacitor? I'm new to surface mount soldering.
Thanks!

On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 2:41:46 PM UTC-6, Wesley wrote: 

Here's a post I made elsewhere about my method of doing it: 

http://www.vintage-computer.

com/vcforum/showthread.php?50961-SE-30-Re-cap=400201=#post400201


If the link doesn't work, let me know and I can just re-post it here. 

As noted there, I'm a huge fan of the MLCC capacitors - they seem to be 
much easier to work with soldering them into place, and they should last a 
LONG time...and even if they don't, they won't leak!  :-) 

Wesley 



On Wed, March 2, 2016 1:04 pm, Stephen Collins wrote: 
> Hmm, I was afraid that would be the recommendation. I'm comfortable with 
> soldering through-hole mounted stuff but everything (except cpu) here is 
> surface mounted. Any links to a guide on this? 
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 11:36:17 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote: 
> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:00 AM, Stephen Collins >> 
>> > wrote: 
>> 
>>> 
>>> I cleaned the internals and system board using a can of compressed 
>>> air, 
>> but so far no water or chemicals. What should I do next? 
>> 
>> Recap the logic board. If it's never had the capacitors replaced, it 
>> needs it. No question. 
>> 
>> - Dylan 
>> 
> 
> -- 
> -- 
> - 
> You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs 
> group. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/
 vintagemacs.shtml and 
> our netiquette guide is at 
> http://www.lowendmac.com/
 lists/netiquette.shtml 
> To post to this group, send email to vintag...@googlegroups.com
  
> To leave this group, send email to 
> vintage-macs...@  googlegroups.com For more options, visit
this 
> group at http://groups.google.com/
 group/vintage-macs 
> 
> Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/ 
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> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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options, 
> visit https://groups.google.com/d/ 
optout. 
> 




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Re: Mac Classic boot problem

[Wesley Furr]

Here's a post I made elsewhere about my method of doing it:

http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?50961-SE-30-Re-cap=400201=#post400201

If the link doesn't work, let me know and I can just re-post it here.

As noted there, I'm a huge fan of the MLCC capacitors - they seem to be
much easier to work with soldering them into place, and they should last a
LONG time...and even if they don't, they won't leak!  :-)

Wesley



On Wed, March 2, 2016 1:04 pm, Stephen Collins wrote:
> Hmm, I was afraid that would be the recommendation. I'm comfortable with
> soldering through-hole mounted stuff but everything (except cpu) here is
> surface mounted. Any links to a guide on this?
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 11:36:17 AM UTC-6, Dylan McDermond wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>> On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:00 AM, Stephen Collins >>
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I cleaned the internals and system board using a can of compressed
>>> air,
>> but so far no water or chemicals. What should I do next?
>>
>> Recap the logic board. If it’s never had the capacitors replaced, it
>> needs it. No question.
>>
>> - Dylan
>>
>
> --
> --
> -
> You received this message because you are a member of the Vintage Macs
> group. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/vintagemacs.shtml and
> our netiquette guide is at
> http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml
> To post to this group, send email to vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
> To leave this group, send email to
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ADB KVM Switch?

[Wesley Furr]

Were KVM (Keyboard/Video/Mouse) switches ever common for older Mac's with
ADB and DB-15 video?  I've got a 4-port PS/2 VGA KVM switch on my PC at
home, and I have an ADB/DB15 to PS2/VGA adapter that works with it...but I
would like to have the ability to hook up or two Mac's as well...long story,
but would be nice if I could switch the Mac's on the ADB/DB15 side.  Just
searched a bit on ebay and couldn't find anything, which was kinda
surprising.  Does anyone have any insight?  maybe I just didn't come up with
the right search phrase?  Or maybe they just weren't a common item?
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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Re: 128k M0001P error with sad face

[Wesley Furr]

Gotcha...that makes sense now.  I'm sure it is a pain if they aren't
socketed!

Wesley


On Mon, February 1, 2016 3:57 pm, Hardware Mack wrote:
> yes ALL bad.. especially the apple logo'd ones... You get it working by
> changing one or 2... then 2 months one more,  then 6 months 1 or 2 more.
> etc. The 128k and some Apple IIc 's with that apple logo suffer.
>
> changing all 16 chips is a big nasty job... but i am really good at it and
> complete it with repeatable success.  Its the best way to go, get it done
> and your good.
>
> Charles
>
>
> PS: Techknight from 68kmla suggested the ram might have been rushed to
> production, and contamination might of been the issue.  Problems with the
> ram have been quite an issue.
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 1, 2016 at 1:37 PM, Dylan McDermond 
> wrote:
>
>>
>>> On Feb 1, 2016, at 10:34 AM, Britt Dodd 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I think something in the error code (last set of numbers maybe)
>>> indicate *which* bank is bad. I'd say it would be highly unlikely all
>>> of them would be bad.
>>
>> In my experience, when one goes bad, the rest will follow soon if not
>> immediately. The best course of action is to replace them all when you
>> have it apart.
>>
>> - Dylan
>>
>>
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Re: 128k M0001P error with sad face

[Wesley Furr]

*All* bad?  That seems unlikely...unless there is something I don't know
about early Mac's that can cause failure of all of them?  I've heard talk
in PC circles about piggybacking a good chip on top of them temporarily in
order to find the bad chip...would something like that work to narrow it
down?

Wesley


On Mon, February 1, 2016 10:26 am, Charles wrote:
> the ram is bad… all of the 16 ram chips need to be replaced.  i do
> offer this service. Charles
> MacCaps.com
>
>
> On Jan 31, 2016, at 11:18 PM, Barry Richardson 
> wrote:
>
>
>> Tested my 128K Mac recently (bought it in 1984) and got the "bong" but
>> sad face with the numbers 048360. Spent hours trying to interpret with
>> no luck. I've removed the HD (disk ejector was sluggish) which turned a
>> little when I inserted the system disk nut now does not. Also
>> resoldered the yolk - analogue board connections. If I can't fix the
>> error, can I use bits from a 1MB or classic Mac (which I have, neither
>> works properly). Be really grateful for help.
>> brlund...@gmail.com (Melbourne Australia)
>>
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RE: Color Classic hard drive intermittent

[Wesley Furr]

On older drives, there are three resistor packs that look like this (though
maybe ugly yellow or black):
 
http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_07_2012/post-7524-0-94809200-1342
308910.jpg
 
On newer drives, there will be a jumper to turn it on and off.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of slaws
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2015 7:56 AM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Color Classic hard drive intermittent


I know proper termination is important and know how to check it on an
external drive. I do not know how to check termination on the internal
drive. How's that done?

On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 9:10:10 PM UTC-5, Wesley wrote: 

Any chance the power connector is somewhat loose from lots of plugging and
un-plugging?  I had a PC years ago that occasionally had problems and I
theorized it was a problem with the well-used power connection...
 
Aside from that, I'm not sure what to suggest...other than maybe making sure
it is terminated properly?  Though I'm sure you've probably already checked
that!
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintag...@googlegroups.com   [mailto:vintag...@
 googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of slaws
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 12:44 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Color Classic hard drive intermittent


Wesley, 

Yes, I've swapped those drives out a couple of times during this process and
so the connections have been removed and reconnected several times. 

Shane

On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 10:00:59 AM UTC-5, Wesley wrote: 

Have you tried re-seating the drive connections and making sure they are 
firmly re-connected? 

Wesley 


On Tue, December 15, 2015 9:28 am, slaws wrote: 
> My Color Classic has been intermittently failing to recognize the hard 
> drive on reboot. Also, when idle overnight, the computer on waking is 
> non-responsive. The mouse moves around the screen but menus don't respond 
>  and I can't select anything by clicking. 
> 
> Scans of the hard drive by Disk First Aid, Apple Personal Diagnostics, 
> and Alsoft's Disk Express II seem to indicate the hard drive is fine. I 
> have switched the hard drive out with another hard drive and have the same

>  issues with the second hard drive and get the same results from 
> diagnostic scans. 
> 
> Sometimes, not always, *Cmd+Option+P=R* to reset the pram, followed by 
> holding the *D* key to force booting from the internal hard drive will 
> result in booting from the hard drive. Because it doesn't always work I 
> think it may just be coincidence when it does work. 
> 
> Also, the computer consistently boots from a Zip drive and the floppy 
> drive. 
> 
> The computer has been recapped. 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on what to consider next? 






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RE: Color Classic hard drive intermittent

[Wesley Furr]

Any chance the power connector is somewhat loose from lots of plugging and
un-plugging?  I had a PC years ago that occasionally had problems and I
theorized it was a problem with the well-used power connection...
 
Aside from that, I'm not sure what to suggest...other than maybe making sure
it is terminated properly?  Though I'm sure you've probably already checked
that!
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of slaws
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 12:44 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Color Classic hard drive intermittent


Wesley, 

Yes, I've swapped those drives out a couple of times during this process and
so the connections have been removed and reconnected several times. 

Shane

On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 10:00:59 AM UTC-5, Wesley wrote: 

Have you tried re-seating the drive connections and making sure they are 
firmly re-connected? 

Wesley 


On Tue, December 15, 2015 9:28 am, slaws wrote: 
> My Color Classic has been intermittently failing to recognize the hard 
> drive on reboot. Also, when idle overnight, the computer on waking is 
> non-responsive. The mouse moves around the screen but menus don't respond 
>  and I can't select anything by clicking. 
> 
> Scans of the hard drive by Disk First Aid, Apple Personal Diagnostics, 
> and Alsoft's Disk Express II seem to indicate the hard drive is fine. I 
> have switched the hard drive out with another hard drive and have the same

>  issues with the second hard drive and get the same results from 
> diagnostic scans. 
> 
> Sometimes, not always, *Cmd+Option+P=R* to reset the pram, followed by 
> holding the *D* key to force booting from the internal hard drive will 
> result in booting from the hard drive. Because it doesn't always work I 
> think it may just be coincidence when it does work. 
> 
> Also, the computer consistently boots from a Zip drive and the floppy 
> drive. 
> 
> The computer has been recapped. 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on what to consider next? 




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Re: Color Classic hard drive intermittent

[Wesley Furr]

Have you tried re-seating the drive connections and making sure they are
firmly re-connected?

Wesley


On Tue, December 15, 2015 9:28 am, slaws wrote:
> My Color Classic has been intermittently failing to recognize the hard
> drive on reboot. Also, when idle overnight, the computer on waking is
> non-responsive. The mouse moves around the screen but menus don't respond
>  and I can't select anything by clicking.
>
> Scans of the hard drive by Disk First Aid, Apple Personal Diagnostics,
> and Alsoft's Disk Express II seem to indicate the hard drive is fine. I
> have switched the hard drive out with another hard drive and have the same
>  issues with the second hard drive and get the same results from
> diagnostic scans.
>
> Sometimes, not always, *Cmd+Option+P=R* to reset the pram, followed by
> holding the *D* key to force booting from the internal hard drive will
> result in booting from the hard drive. Because it doesn't always work I
> think it may just be coincidence when it does work.
>
> Also, the computer consistently boots from a Zip drive and the floppy
> drive.
>
> The computer has been recapped.
>
>
> Any suggestions on what to consider next?


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RE: Slowly I stepped....

[Wesley Furr]

Should work on an LC/IIe card as well -
http://adtpro.sourceforge.net/lc.html
 
ADTPro is awesome!  Was using it just the other day on a IIgs.  I need to
take some time to figure out how to use the virtual drive...that could be a
nice feature, if it works as I hope it might...  Another great resource is
A2Server - http://ivanx.com/a2server/ - and it works for sharing files to
classic Macs as well.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joe Anthenat
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2015 2:12 PM
To: Vintage Macs
Subject: Re: Slowly I stepped


Have you seen this? 

http://adtpro.sourceforge.net/index.html

If you happen have a IIe already this is a fun way to work with it, booting
via disk images over a serial connection to an OS X Mac.  Just thought I'd
mention it.

Have fun ;^)

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 9:57:13 AM UTC-5, Carlos Randolph wrote: 

Hey everyone.  Just thought I would say hello and introduce myself.  My name
is Carlos and I'm over here in the Windy City.  I've been tinkering around
with Macs for forever and a day and slow find myself getting back in.  I've
owned: 

Classic, Classic II, Color Classic, Q700, PM8600, Q630, PB100, PB5300 and a
whole host of G3 through Intel systems.  Today I mainly operate on a Mac
Mini Server, MBP 17", iMac 21", MBA and an iPhone.

My daughter and I have been playing around with IIe emulators and so I
decided to setup a real IIe system for her.  The easiest setup for me, not
the cheapest, is to setup an LC type system with a IIe card.  Just found an
LC 575 and it's on it's way.  I'm on the hunt now for a IIe emulation card
as well.   Like the LC 575 because it is so much easier to get data to it
and then the IIe.  Plus the all in one aspect makes it easier too.

That's it, will see how the traffic on here is and I will pop in from time
to time.

Thanks,
CR

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RE: IIcx Motherboard Damaged Traces?

[Wesley Furr]

Thanks everyone for the tips.  The biggest challenge I think is the fact
that the tip of those tiny vias have corrosion on them...enough so that I'm
not entirely sure if the problem is that the trace is shot, or that there is
enough corrosion that the meter can't get a good connection to the metal.
How would be best to attempt to clean it down to bare metal that I can
hopefully get a solder connection to?  And what sort of wire should I use?
Just something small?  I don't have any really thin wire...though perhaps
now is the time to invest in some...
 
The corrosion as best I can tell has come from whatever is inside of the
original capacitor that sat on that spot on the board.  Thankfully there
does not appear to be any indication of battery leakage...and it's not near
the battery.  I thought about testing from the other side, but there are so
many, I'm not sure if I can tell for sure that I've got the right points...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 3:07 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: IIcx Motherboard Damaged Traces?


all good advice (bear in mind I'm no expert though). 


But what about vinegar and maybe salt to clean the surface of the board? It
eats green oxidation. There must be other chemicals/substances out there
that will consume battery acid and corrosion. Baking soda and or vinegar?


 Wes, you can make a new trace if you want to. In my opinion it may make
more sense to solder the trace to it's respective points, and forego
epoxying until later. You may even be able to get away without it. Just to
see if it works. And you can get some thin hookup wire and use that to
determine if that's the problem. Just use a small bit of solder clipped from
a roll (I have some very thin kester no lead solder in my stash), and a not
iron to just tack it in place. Heck you could mechanically short the 2
points together with an all metal compass say or a bent up paper clip  (no
it's not really a short, that's just a way of saying you're connecting 2
points together with a conductor. Be careful not to actually short
anything).

 Keep in mind also that sometimes these pads have an opposing pad on the
bottom of the board. You can use that point, if present, to confirm
continuity or lack thereof.


  _  

From: Derek Morton thes...@comcast.net
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: IIcx Motherboard Damaged Traces?


Wesley,

Continuity is the key, if your meter is indicating an open then the traces
must be bad.  To verify, I would suggest cleaning the area with isopropyl
alcohol first (99% if you can find it otherwise the highest number you can
get).  Use an acid brush
(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-2-in-x-6-in-Acid-Brush-307122/100346943)
which has been trimmed to give you a shorter angled brush head (cut off
around half the length of the brush).  This will give you a good vertical
scrubber which won't be overly harsh on the surface and will tolerate the
chemical environment.  Scrub firmly, but gently...  Too much force can cause
damage.  After scrubbing you need to clean up the area before the alcohol
dries.  The alcohol (in conjunction with the scrubbing) will dissolve and
lift the contaminates from the board but when it evaporates the contaminates
will be re-deposited on the board.  Ideally you should use Kimwipes to clean
up the area, but a thin cotton cloth (old t-shirt perhaps) should work
reasonably well.

Verify the continuity (or lack of) once cleaned.

You can fix the problem in a couple different ways.  The proper way is to
remove and replace the track.  This is a moderately difficult task requiring
you to remove the damaged track, cut a new track from copper sheet to
replace the damaged section, epoxy it to the board (feathering in the points
where the new trace meets up with the told trace), solder the ends to
re-establish continuity and then coat with new track to protect it.  The
MUCH easier option is to simply use some hook-up wire to bypass the damaged
section.  You can go from via/pad/track to via/pad/track, take your pick.

I would advise some caution however.  Apple's boards do not seem to tolerate
re-work well.  Everything seems to lift from the board with very little
heat, so be careful.

Hope it helps,

Derek




On Aug 14, 2015, at 10:22 PM, Wesley Furr wrote:

 I have a IIcx that got eaten alive by a battery leak.  I recently acquired
a replacement motherboard from someone in unknown condition.  It would turn
on but not do anything.  Figured it needed a re-cap, and Charles concurred.
I spent some time this evening removing the caps (put me down for a fan of
the twist method!) and getting it cleaned up.  Everything looks good
except for two traces around C7.  Take a look here:
  
 http://www.megley.com/temp/iicx.jpg
  
 The white square lines at the bottom are where C7 sits.  My meter is not
getting continuity

IIcx Motherboard Damaged Traces?

[Wesley Furr]

I have a IIcx that got eaten alive by a battery leak.  I recently acquired a
replacement motherboard from someone in unknown condition.  It would turn on
but not do anything.  Figured it needed a re-cap, and Charles concurred.  I
spent some time this evening removing the caps (put me down for a fan of the
twist method!) and getting it cleaned up.  Everything looks good except
for two traces around C7.  Take a look here:
 
http://www.megley.com/temp/iicx.jpg
 
The white square lines at the bottom are where C7 sits.  My meter is not
getting continuity between the upper pad on C7 and the spot just above and
to the right of it.  The other trace that goes from the left of it to above
it looks bad and I'm not getting continuity there either...but I don't know
how much of that might just be the crud on those points.
 
What do the experts think?  Likely bad?  How does one go about repairing
those traces if they are bad?  Can the points (are they vias?) be
cleaned up and soldered to?  Any thoughts or suggestions would be
appreciated.  No point in wasting good caps on this board if it's not going
to work when I get done with it...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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RE: Mac Plus Plethora of Problems

[Wesley Furr]

Hey...nothing wrong with old...helps you know things us slightly younger
folks don't!  And then we know things those younger than us don't...good to
pass that knowledge along...
 
Neat history there on those odd drives, thanks for sharing.  If it sounded
terrible then, perhaps what I heard is normal.  :-)
 
It has 1Mb per the about finder section.  I don't yet have a screwdriver
to break it open to look inside.  I fired it up fine on a 6.0.8 boot floppy.
 
PRAM battery is missing (probably good or it might have ruined something by
now).
 
Someone elsewhere suggested the SCSI problem was either parity or hardware
handshaking or something...tried a 40Mb from an LC and it started up just
fine...or at least to the point where it said it didn't have enough RAM to
continue.  :-)
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mark Kronquist
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2015 10:58 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Mac Plus Plethora of Problems


Okay. I am old.  Almost 50.  Phasers were sold by macfriends in PDX at the
time largest unauthorized apple dealer on earth.  Pc 720k drive with fake
iwm or was it swim. Sounded like shit.  Worked fine 199 vs 329 corporate 499
retail for apple 800k. We bot hundreds. 

What is ram state on plus?

If resistor clipped 2 2.5 4 mb ram is it shorting out? Ie shifted back and
touching

If scanty ram Mac try 5,1.  X thru Mac is no readable os. 6.0.8 May not load
into 1mb ram. Thus x

Assume you have proper finder

Not loading too many fonts or da s with font da mover

Didn't ResEdit 

Have 50k space of fd to write to

Assume pram batt bad 

Also try 400k os disk incase second read write head bad

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 7, 2015, at 6:58 PM, Wesley Furr wes...@megley.com wrote:



I recently acquired a Mac Plus from an old friend...it was her parent's and
I gather was used for many years. Unfortunately, looks like it got stored in
the basement or something and has acquired a bit of mildew...but just
sitting around problem is half of its problems...where shall I begin...

The external Lacie hard drive (with a Quantum Prodrive ELS) is dead. I
whacked on it (and may have killed it) trying to get it going...ultimately
pulled the cover and tried the head move trick...it will seek back and forth
a few times, then spin down anyway. I've written that part off...

I used an LCII to create a System 6.0.8 boot disk and it booted up just
fine. Once. Now it spins, heads seek, then it stops spinning. Pauses, spins,
seeks, then stops again...disk icon on the screen goes to an X when it
stops, then normal looking as it tries again, wash, rinse, repeat. Could
this be as simple as needing a head cleaning? The disk still works fine in
the LCII. I also plugged in an external Apple 3.5 disk drive and it boots
fine on that as well. Any other maintenance that might need to be done on
the drive? I don't yet have the special screwdriver to get the case open
either... I'm guessing the heads are clean since it did boot once ok...?

Anyone ever heard of a Phaser 800 floppy drive, made by Warp Nine
Technology? Gotta love the name regardless.
http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif It
came with the Mac...seek sounds very noisy and it won't boot from that drive
either. Struggling to figure out how to get the thing to come apart...I
think I may have slide it forward, pull the drive bezel off, then slide it
out the back?

And lastly...I can't get it to recognize an external hard drive...one that
works fine on the LCII. First tried an ADTX drive, which uses an IDE to SCSI
adapter with a 2.5 IDE drive...system 7.5, nothing. Tried a generic Seagate
Cheetah (I think - maybe Barracuda) in an external case with 7.5...nothing.
I have a SCSI to IDE adapter which then goes to Compactflash, again,
nothing...all of these boot fine on the LCII. Finally put in a fresh 256mb
CF card and loaded 6.0.8 onto it via the LCII, no dice. Booted the Plus and
tried to get it to see the drive with a patched HD SC Setup and it does not
see the drive. Do I just need a really old SCSI drive to work with this
thing or something? Any other ideas or common problems I should be looking
out for?

Thanks,

Wesley 



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Mac Plus Plethora of Problems

[Wesley Furr]

I recently acquired a Mac Plus from an old friend...it was her parent's and
I gather was used for many years. Unfortunately, looks like it got stored in
the basement or something and has acquired a bit of mildew...but just
sitting around problem is half of its problems...where shall I begin...

The external Lacie hard drive (with a Quantum Prodrive ELS) is dead. I
whacked on it (and may have killed it) trying to get it going...ultimately
pulled the cover and tried the head move trick...it will seek back and forth
a few times, then spin down anyway. I've written that part off...

I used an LCII to create a System 6.0.8 boot disk and it booted up just
fine. Once. Now it spins, heads seek, then it stops spinning. Pauses, spins,
seeks, then stops again...disk icon on the screen goes to an X when it
stops, then normal looking as it tries again, wash, rinse, repeat. Could
this be as simple as needing a head cleaning? The disk still works fine in
the LCII. I also plugged in an external Apple 3.5 disk drive and it boots
fine on that as well. Any other maintenance that might need to be done on
the drive? I don't yet have the special screwdriver to get the case open
either... I'm guessing the heads are clean since it did boot once ok...?

Anyone ever heard of a Phaser 800 floppy drive, made by Warp Nine
Technology? Gotta love the name regardless.
http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif It
came with the Mac...seek sounds very noisy and it won't boot from that drive
either. Struggling to figure out how to get the thing to come apart...I
think I may have slide it forward, pull the drive bezel off, then slide it
out the back?

And lastly...I can't get it to recognize an external hard drive...one that
works fine on the LCII. First tried an ADTX drive, which uses an IDE to SCSI
adapter with a 2.5 IDE drive...system 7.5, nothing. Tried a generic Seagate
Cheetah (I think - maybe Barracuda) in an external case with 7.5...nothing.
I have a SCSI to IDE adapter which then goes to Compactflash, again,
nothing...all of these boot fine on the LCII. Finally put in a fresh 256mb
CF card and loaded 6.0.8 onto it via the LCII, no dice. Booted the Plus and
tried to get it to see the drive with a patched HD SC Setup and it does not
see the drive. Do I just need a really old SCSI drive to work with this
thing or something? Any other ideas or common problems I should be looking
out for?

Thanks,

Wesley 

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RE: IIcx No Chime or Video - Caps?

[Wesley Furr]

Charles - the IIcx has a couple of axial electrolytics...are those typically
ok?
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Charles
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 6:51 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: IIcx No Chime or Video - Caps?


yup it sounds like bad caps on the main board buddy.


On Aug 5, 2015, at 6:48 PM, Wesley Furr wes...@megley.com wrote:


Looking for some opinions...
 
I have a IIcx here that the battery ruined the motherboard.  I acquired a
replacement of unknown condition from someone for the cost of shipping.
Capacitors are obviously leaking.  I can get the machine to power on, fan
whirs and power light lights up, but no chime or video.  Sometimes, haven't
nailed down a pattern yet...seems to be more right after plugging it in,
when I push the power button on the back, it will come on, but only for as
long as I hold down the button...let it sit a moment and try again and it
seems to then power up, but again, no chime or video.  It does not have a
PRAM battery installed, though from what I'm reading online, it should power
up OK without it.  I tried it without a video card, and also with a video
card I pulled out of a IIci (that also got eaten by a battery) and it does
the same thing.  The IIci power supply doesn't want to seat nicely...not
sure if it's dead or just not making a good connection...so no definitive
test to know if the power supply is good...though as I think about it, I do
have a Quadra 700...I could try its power supply...
 
Does this sound like classic motherboard capacitor issues?  Or maybe
something else?  I don't mind replacing the caps, but I'd obviously rather
not do it and find that it still won't work due to some other problem...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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IIcx No Chime or Video - Caps?

[Wesley Furr]

Looking for some opinions...
 
I have a IIcx here that the battery ruined the motherboard.  I acquired a
replacement of unknown condition from someone for the cost of shipping.
Capacitors are obviously leaking.  I can get the machine to power on, fan
whirs and power light lights up, but no chime or video.  Sometimes, haven't
nailed down a pattern yet...seems to be more right after plugging it in,
when I push the power button on the back, it will come on, but only for as
long as I hold down the button...let it sit a moment and try again and it
seems to then power up, but again, no chime or video.  It does not have a
PRAM battery installed, though from what I'm reading online, it should power
up OK without it.  I tried it without a video card, and also with a video
card I pulled out of a IIci (that also got eaten by a battery) and it does
the same thing.  The IIci power supply doesn't want to seat nicely...not
sure if it's dead or just not making a good connection...so no definitive
test to know if the power supply is good...though as I think about it, I do
have a Quadra 700...I could try its power supply...
 
Does this sound like classic motherboard capacitor issues?  Or maybe
something else?  I don't mind replacing the caps, but I'd obviously rather
not do it and find that it still won't work due to some other problem...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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RE: IIcx No Chime or Video - Caps?

[Wesley Furr]

Sounds good...I'll give it a shot then.  Just didn't want to bother if it
could be a more major problem.  Just tried the Quadra 700 power supply and
it behaves the same...except power on/off is a little goofy as well - like
it turns on, press to turn off, it blinks off a moment, then comes right
back on...hit it faster or hold it a moment and it seems to shut down then.
Who knows...I'll blame it on the caps unless someone believes otherwise.
:-)
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Charles
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 6:51 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: IIcx No Chime or Video - Caps?


yup it sounds like bad caps on the main board buddy.


On Aug 5, 2015, at 6:48 PM, Wesley Furr wes...@megley.com wrote:


Looking for some opinions...
 
I have a IIcx here that the battery ruined the motherboard.  I acquired a
replacement of unknown condition from someone for the cost of shipping.
Capacitors are obviously leaking.  I can get the machine to power on, fan
whirs and power light lights up, but no chime or video.  Sometimes, haven't
nailed down a pattern yet...seems to be more right after plugging it in,
when I push the power button on the back, it will come on, but only for as
long as I hold down the button...let it sit a moment and try again and it
seems to then power up, but again, no chime or video.  It does not have a
PRAM battery installed, though from what I'm reading online, it should power
up OK without it.  I tried it without a video card, and also with a video
card I pulled out of a IIci (that also got eaten by a battery) and it does
the same thing.  The IIci power supply doesn't want to seat nicely...not
sure if it's dead or just not making a good connection...so no definitive
test to know if the power supply is good...though as I think about it, I do
have a Quadra 700...I could try its power supply...
 
Does this sound like classic motherboard capacitor issues?  Or maybe
something else?  I don't mind replacing the caps, but I'd obviously rather
not do it and find that it still won't work due to some other problem...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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RE: 1/2AA PRAM Batteries at Radio Shack

[Wesley Furr]

Hope it helps someone else out.  If you can't find anything local, you might
check ebay...I looked there to see what the going price was and found lots
for sale in Radio Shack packaging...obviously for more than $2 though!  I
don't recall what prices were the last time I looked (obviously $20 list at
Radio Shack is way high), so not sure if the current prices on ebay are good
or not...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Peter R
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 5:41 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: 1/2AA PRAM Batteries at Radio Shack


Thanks for the tip, Wesley. I actually could use one. I'll keep an eye out
if any stores are still around.


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RE: Re[4]: LVD-adapted drive and SCSI Voodoo question

[Wesley Furr]

That is impressive...they have obviously done great things over the years as
far as reducing the heat generated off of enterprise-class drives.  Thanks
for the info!
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Scott Holder
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 9:20 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re[4]: LVD-adapted drive and SCSI Voodoo question


I was concerned about this myself, especially since I'm running a 33mhz
68040 in it. To my delight, it gets a bit warm to the touch but not too
terribly bad at all. In fact I feel like it gets hotter with the case open
and no airflow than closed with the fan running.
 
I have a couple external enclosures, but one of the goals of this machine
was a standalone machine with no bits hanging off it. A $5 25-pin active
terminator is probably the easiest way to fix it that doesn't involve
expensive adapters. even if it doesn't quite keep it fully slim. 
 
Scott

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RE: Re[2]: LVD-adapted drive and SCSI Voodoo question

[Wesley Furr]

Just be careful of the heat being generated by that 10k drive.  I worked for
a small computer place in the late 90's that custom built machines.  We put
together a server with a pair of Cheetah drives (the 10k drives presumably
the same as you speak of) and then they kept failing.  Turned out they
didn't have adequate cooling and were slowly roasting themselves to death.
Put them in drive bay adapters with fans and they were fine after that.  I
mention this because I doubt the LC475 has much in the way of cooling for
the drive.  If you're not sure, let it run for a half hour or so and ease
the cover off and touch the drive...  Stock drives in those machines were
probably 5400rpm (or slower) drives that didn't generate much if any heat...
 
Another option might be to pick up an external enclosure with decent cooling
and run it that way...that would also probably get around your termination
issues...  Thinking on it further, I think it would be accurate to say LVD
SE drives don't have termination capabilities...seems to me all those that I
saw (in the PC world) came with cables that had a terminator pack built onto
the end of them...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Scott Holder
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2015 11:47 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re[2]: LVD-adapted drive and SCSI Voodoo question


I guess the 25-pin terminator might be the path of least resistance, and
it's not like it'd make it hugely more clumsy. I'll look into that, thanks.
 
The drive itself is an 18gb drive, model SR318404LC. Nothing especially
fancy about it, though the 10k RPM performance compared to the old 5400 rpm
external 2gb drive I was using with it is very nice. I remember seeing the
resistor modules on plain 50-pin drives, but this drive doesn't have
anything like that. I'm not sure LVD drives normally would. I've only dealt
with a couple (the one this adapter used to be attached to before it died)
and it worked fine in a Beige G3 with no additional work involved. I guess
it could be worse, it's already a huge upgrade!
 
Scott
 
 
 
-- Original Message --
From: 'Keith Jamison' via Vintage Macs vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Sent: 2/1/2015 9:23:06 AM
Subject: Re: LVD-adapted drive and SCSI Voodoo question
 

Hi Scott,


I pulled 210MB SCSI (50-pin) drives from several Sun machines and none of
them worked until I added termination.


I used inline resistor modules and plugged them into the sockets near to the
50-way connector.


I guess this wont be useful in your case but, as I don't know what your
drive looks like, I can't help you further.






Jonathan, that's a great suggestion. Can anyone suggest a possible
termination device that fits into the DA25 socket, please?


Cheers all,


Keith


On Sunday, 1 February 2015, 4:40, Jonathan Morton chromati...@gmail.com
wrote:



It may be that all you need is a terminator plugged directly into the
external SCSI port.
- Jonathan Morton

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RE: Need Plastic foot for Performa 6115CD

[Wesley Furr]

Is the foot solid on top?  Assuming there is enough clearance, could you
remove the motherboard (if it's in the way) and drill a hole through the
case and foot and use a small screw and nut and maybe washer on the foot to
hold it in place?

Wesley


-Original Message-

 On Saturday, December 11, 2010 2:47:24 AM UTC-8, iainnitro wrote:

 I have a 6115CD Power Mac (6100 series case) that one of the plastic 
 feet has broken and will not re-attach to the metal chassis.  This is 
 the right front foot.  I have thought about trying to Gorilla Glue it 
 back on (there are metal tabs that hold the plastic foot on and the 
 plastic broke at that point)... but upon reading the back of the 
 Gorilla Glue bottle, it recommends against using it on polyethylene 
 or polypropylene plastics.  The question is:  What kind of plastic is 
 on our Vintage beige Macs... IIRC, it is one of those types?


I'm pretty sure it's ABS, that's what the majority of computer cases and
case parts are made out of. Fairly rigid but brittle, especially after being
exposed to lots of UV. I didn't know that Gorilla glue would bond plastic
and metal, I would assume that you'd have to use something like JB-Weld or
an automotive adhesive.


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RE: I have a origanal Black Mac TV with remote.

[Wesley Furr]

Check out ebay too...lots of s-video cables there cheap...like $2 shipped.
Check out auction # 201071360268 for an example.  Others in that price range
you're probably looking at direct ship from China...  S-video is pretty much
old technology these days...can't really even find a new TV with an s-video
input any more, so if anything, that should depress prices on cables...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of J Harton
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2014 1:13 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: I have a origanal Black Mac TV with remote.


S-video cables generally go for less than ADB ones do, at least on eBay.
Newegg has some for ~$5. People seem to think ADB cables are worth more just
because they were necessary for macs and because there are apple branded
ones (i.e. they use apple's cable symbols on the plugs).

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Thrift Store Find

[Wesley Furr]

Keep your eye out at thrift stores...you never know what you might find.  I
dropped by a local one today that I hadn't visited in quite a while.  They
have a pegboard thing with all sorts of cables cheap...I usually end up
buying a few that I don't need...but I might some day!  I couldn't believe
my eyes when I was looking over what they had and saw an LC IIe card
breakout cable!  50 cents!  :-)  For those that don't know what the big deal
is, those things seem to be going for like $45 on ebay.

They also had a few S-Video cables, which as discussed, also work for
keyboard/ADB cables...so that would be another place to look for those in
need...even cheaper than ebay!  Or most likely so...
 
Wesley

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MAC LC and Internal SCSI Termination

[Wesley Furr]

Quick question...I recently saw a photo of a Mac LC motherboard (the
original one) that had a small board attached to the internal SCSI
port...from what I could see of it, it looks like it may be a terminator.  I
know some of those units were sold with dual floppy drives and no internal
hard drive.  If you aren't using an internal drive on an original Mac LC,
does the internal port need to be terminated?  I had assumed termination on
the computer side of things was automatic since there are no jumpers (that I
know of) or terminating resistors to take off.
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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RE: MAC LC and Internal SCSI Termination

[Wesley Furr]

Right...but many newer (I would guess starting around that era) SCSI
controllers, at least in the PC world, have automatic termination on the
controller itself.  The LC would seem to be the same in that you don't have
to make any changes to termination on the machine when you connect an
external SCSI device...it obviously is smart enough to turn off termination
for the controller...so I assumed that intelligence would follow through to
not requiring an internal terminator if only external devices were attached.
Finding this photo of what looks like a terminator has me wondering if that
is not a correct assumption.

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jonathan Morton
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 7:48 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: MAC LC and Internal SCSI Termination



Termination needs to be applied to both physical ends of a SCSI bus,
regardless of whether they are physically inside or outside the machine, or
whether one of them happens to be the controller. When both internal and
external cables are present, generally the outer ends of each cable
represent the extreme ends of the single bus. If the bus is physically
short, however, a single terminator or sometimes no terminator at all its
sufficient.

A Mac with an internal drive usually has a single terminator attached to, or
built into, that drive. This allows external devices to be attached while
only worrying about external termination.

- Jonathan Morton


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RE: LC memory question

[Wesley Furr]

Would be nice!  You always have to wonder about un-used spaces on boards
like that.  I stumbled into that one researching capacitor replacements...
The similar case I wondered about was what looked like a 2nd floppy header
on the other side of the LCII...but then someone pointed out that it didn't
have enough pins in the blank holes.  Oops!  Hadn't counted, but they were
right.
 
Wesley

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Keith Jamison
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:08 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: LC memory question


Thanks, Wesley, that's exactly what I was looking for!

It saves me the trouble of finding out that it doesn't work.

Although there are different reasons for only populating half the pads, I'm
leaning towards the claim that Apple originally planned for 256kB chips but
swapped them to 512kB chips. It could be that the price dropped considerably
on the 512kB and it was easy to reprogram the ROMs.

Great link!

Cheers,

Keith

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RE: LC memory question

[Wesley Furr]

Interesting...it covers the right-hand side drive bay?  Is it different than
a left-hand cover flipped over?
 
LC's were the Mac of choice when I was in later middle and high school.  In
one of the labs there was an odd LC up in front that had an external hard
drive and dual internal floppies.  I'm hoping to do that with one of mine
once I get the capacitors replaced...assuming it works when I get done!
Something cool about decked-out machines...  I'm thinking dual internal
floppies, external hard drive, IIe card with dual 5.25 drives...yeah, that
should do it.  :-)
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of J.S. Garrison
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:33 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: LC memory question


I got lucky enough to find a blanking bezel for one of my LCs that fitted
into the slot the floppy disk drive went into for school Admins that didn't
want the kids using them for destructive purposes.


Jeff Garrison


  _  

From: Wesley Furr wes...@megley.com
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 5:57 AM
Subject: RE: LC memory question


Would be nice!  You always have to wonder about un-used spaces on boards
like that.  I stumbled into that one researching capacitor replacements...
The similar case I wondered about was what looked like a 2nd floppy header
on the other side of the LCII...but then someone pointed out that it didn't
have enough pins in the blank holes.  Oops!  Hadn't counted, but they were
right.
 
Wesley

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Keith Jamison
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 7:08 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: LC memory question


Thanks, Wesley, that's exactly what I was looking for!

It saves me the trouble of finding out that it doesn't work.

Although there are different reasons for only populating half the pads, I'm
leaning towards the claim that Apple originally planned for 256kB chips but
swapped them to 512kB chips. It could be that the price dropped considerably
on the 512kB and it was easy to reprogram the ROMs.

Great link!

Cheers,

Keith

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RE: vMac RAM Settings?

[Wesley Furr]

Might be easier to just find a ROM somewhere online to download.  As long as
you own a machine matching the ROM you download, I wouldn't think there
would be any problem with that.  Just search for download Macintosh ROM
and you should find some options...

Wesley


-Original Message-

Not quite sure if I am in the correct forum to ask this question,
however. I have had Macs since a 512k, which I still own (also have an
SE 30) and I want to use my current Mac laptop to emulate one or either of
these.
Minivmac seems to offer a solution, however I need to copy  the ROM from one
of them and get it to my non-floppy laptop.
What is a recipe for doing this?
Alistair Templeton. (UK)

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RE: LC memory question

[Wesley Furr]

https://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9
https://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9t=19776#p202579
t=19776#p202579
 
Read above and below for more details...but sounds like it won't work.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Keith Jamison
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 4:58 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: LC memory question


Hi Folks!

I have a Macintosh LC with Logic Board (P/N 630-0309).

Beside the Video RAM slot, there are 8 IC places numbered U12 ... U19 at
board location I2 thru I9.

Four slots have ICs soldered (U13, U15, U17  U19) - Motorola MCM514400ANJ80
which I guess to be 512kB RAM chips. four of them equals 2MB RAM which is
the basic soldered RAM for the LC.

I also have two 4MB sticks of 30-pin RAM made by Toshiba and these serve to
max the memory on the LC to 10MB.

Now, just supposing I was able to get hold of four more of those Motorola
chips... would there be any benefit to attaching these to the logic board on
the unused slots (U12, U14, U16  U18) for 4MB of on board RAM?

Even if I leave the two 4MB sticks in place, the LC won't see more than 10MB
RAM.

However, if I had need of a 4MB stick elsewhere, I could borrow one from the
LC, knowing that there was still 8MB (4MB soldered and a 4MB stick)

I haven't done anything yet. I'm merely looking at possibilities. I mean,
why design a logic board with space for 8 RAM chips and only attach 4 chips?

The LC II logic board  (different P/N) had 4MB soldered to it. With two 4MB
sticks in the slots, the LC II ignored 2MB of the soldered RAM to max out at
10MB as well. I know this because I bought a stack of 4MB sticks back in the
day for our school LC's and LC II's. The performance enhancement compared to
2MB or 4MB was very noticeable - Pupils could have TWO apps open at the SAME
TIME!

Anyway, I was just wondering if there was anything else I needed to know
about the possibility of adding extra RAM chips. I've looked at the board
and there are no decoupling caps to be seen.

If I was to work on this, the surface mount soldering would be close to a
nightmare but I've been practising my SMD work and it's not bad, especially
with a hot air rework station.

So long for now and thank you for any pointers, even the ones that say
Don't or No.

Regards,

Keith

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RE: Retr0brite???

[Wesley Furr]

I haven't tried it...but in doing some reading, it sounds like they results
may not be permanent.  I read of at least one person who had a restored
system stored in a box (no exposure to UV light) and it had re-yellowed at
least somewhat.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Hall
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2014 9:27 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Retr0brite???


Hi all,
I was wondering if anyone had experiences using retr0brite on any cases
here, I want to clean up my IIgs, IIci, an SE, and various mice and kb's but
I don't want to kill the cases in the process.   Just wondering if anyone
has tried and what their experiences were.

Peter J Hall

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RE: reviving Mac Classic?

[Wesley Furr]

Someone may know more than I do...but from what I gather they can hold a
charge for a VERY VERY long time...perhaps indefinitely?  That's what bugs
me about all the warnings of dire injury on electric devices.  Most things
are safe if you aren't stupid...but a monitor that can be deadly long after
unplugging has the exact same warning on it that everyone has learned to
ignore...
 
I'm sure if you are careful not to touch anything around the tube, you
should be OK...
 
Wesley
 

  _  


*   If I recall correctly, the CRTs in these macs can retain lethal
charge for a while. So how long should I leave the machine disconnected from
power before trying to open it?

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RE: First machine without signatures

[Wesley Furr]

I forget whether it was the IIci or IIcx, but when I pulled it apart, I was
surprised to notice signatures on the case...  Going by
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_Macintosh_models those models were
introduced after the SE.
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dr. Hawkins
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2013 9:30 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: First machine without signatures


Oddly, this came up on one of my my lawyer mailing lists (yes, I'm
subscribed to two of those [three if you count the one for my own software])


When did the signatures in the case stop?  My memory wants to say that it
was the SE that was the first without signatures in the case, but . . .

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RE: Semi-OT - Unexpected benefits of old computer hobbies and capacitors

[Wesley Furr]

I've got a 92 Caravan (just rolled over 22 miles yesterday)...it has an
occasionally odd hiccup...stumbles or power loss at moderate throttle...hit
the gas and it pops out of it and is fine.  In the back of my mind I've
started wondering if aging capacitors in the computer somewhere might be
causing a problem...they certainly seem to start going out in most
everything else that old!  Seems that they are a wear item in the
electronics world...  :-(  A friend says that is often all it takes to bring
antique radios back to life...

I've replaced capacitors in lots of things...an old inverter, power supply
for a wireless router, monitors and TV's, motherboards, an old PC video
card, etc.  Definitely a good skill to have!  Now if I can just master those
dang surface mount caps...  :-)  On my list to try again when I have some
free time...

Wesley


-Original Message-

This isn't directly related to Vintage Macs, but I thought I'd share it
anyway given the recent topics of discussion and lack of overwhelming
traffic.

I've recapped a couple Mac boards over the years to decent success. 
Well, a bit ago my car started running somewhat poorly. Not undriveably so,
but just having hesitation and missing on acceleration. Granted, it's a
high-mileage 1991 Toyota MR2, so problems aren't unexpected with a car that
old. Had it at the shop finally, and the guys diagnosed it to the main
engine ECU computer. They tested all the sensor inputs, and saw they were
good, but saw the fuel injector outputs as bad.

Their recommendation was replacing the ECU, which involved rather more money
than I wanted to spend on such a thing. On a whim, I took apart the
computer, and lo and behold, the board had that familiar corrosion under a
couple of caps.

http://bit.ly/1bAqDzZ

Had no trouble finding replacements and swapping them, and now the car runs
perfectly.

Who'd a thunk that all these years of playing with ancient computer hardware
would come in handy like that. Even my wife is a little more understanding
of my electronics foibles after this :)

Scott

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RE: Re-Capping a Mac LCII (Soldering Issues)

[Wesley Furr]

LOL...somehow that doesn't surprise me.  Heaven forbid a few kids work with
a small amount of lead in a reasonable manner.

I'm definitely not using lead-free...pretty sure I crossed paths with that
trying to repair a newer computer motherboard...what a pain.  I got some
Radio Shack silver bearing solder - 62/36/2.  It seems to work fine compared
to other solder I've used.

Per a guide or two I found online for replacing the surface mount
capacitors, I flowed a little solder onto the pads, then laid the capacitor
on top of the small mound of solder...then I used a small flat-tip
screwdriver to hold it down so it didn't move, as well as to force it down
onto the pad as the solder melted on one side.  Then the theory is, after
that side sinks in, repeat on the other side.  In reality, half the time the
screwdriver moves it off of perfect center as soon as I touch it...then when
I finally do get it pretty much where I want it, the solder doesn't seem to
want to re-melt and drop the capacitor down into it...leaving me worried I'm
going to fry the poor capacitor with the excess heat.  Just doesn't seem to
be quite enough pad or capacitor lead sticking out the sides to get the heat
to it.  When I do finally get one side in, then the other side doesn't want
to budge at all...possibly because the other side is too firm?  I've tried
adding some flux, but it still doesn't seem to help much...though it did do
wonders for removing the legs of the old capacitors.  How do you guys
install the new ones?  Is there a way I should be doing it other than
mounding up a bit and trying to melt it into place?

I'm using a YiHua 936 soldering station...from what I see (found a Youtube
review/comparison), a pretty decent clone of the Hakko 936.  It's still new
to me, pretty much started using it for this project.  Seems to be doing
ok...though I seem to default to cranking the heat all the way up to get it
working like I would like.  In the past, I've been using a 25 or 30w
off-brand pencil iron.  Figured it was time for something better and more
controlled.  It has a very nice fine point to it...though heat transfer at
the very tip seems hit or miss.  I've got a couple of circuit boards to try
assembling...will probably try starting one of those this evening with it
and see how it does for through-hole stuff...whilst waiting on further
advice from all the surface-mount experts here...  :-)

Thanks everyone!

Wesley


-Original Message-

The last time I saw that kind of problem it was a club of students trying to
build a robot.  Someone told them they had to use lead free solder.

Don't try that!  60/40 tin lead solder works well with some rosin based flux
which is likely inside of your hollow core solder.  The lead free stuff
requires a weak acid flux that has to be carefully cleaned off and requires
another 15 degrees C to flow..


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Re-Capping a Mac LCII (Soldering Issues)

[Wesley Furr]

OK...I've been working on replacing the capacitors on an LCII.  I made the
stupid decision to start with an LC (only have one) rather than an LCII (of
which I have 4).  Anyway...after half-damaging a few pads attempting to
de-solder, I've left that the LC to sit while I perfect the methods on an
LCII.
 
I used the crush/cut, remove, and de-solder the legs method, and it worked
well.  Then used some solder braid to clean up the pads.  91% rubbing
alcohol and q-tips to clean up minor capacitor gunk and flux I used in the
leg removal. Then I flowed some solder on the pads of a few...laid a
capacitor on top and attempted to hold/push it from the top with a small
flat screwdriver and re-flow it into place.  About the only thing I've
accomplished is getting really frustrated.  To start out with, the 10uf
original electrolytic replacements listed at
http://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9
http://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9t=19776 t=19776 are the wrong
size...they are the size of the bigger 47uf's...not the smaller original
10uf's.  Of course I ordered enough to do all 4 LCII's, the LC, and an
LC475...anybody need about 40 of the bigger-sized ones?  :-(
 
Anyway...I got the 1uf in place...looks like it is firm, but not
pretty...seems to be cocked up slightly with the solder globbed underneath
(as best I can tell by looking through a loupe).  After lots of fussing and
cussing, I managed to get one of the 47's in place...one side I finally gave
up and held the iron down and flowed it into the side...which doesn't look
pretty, but seems to have worked.  Somehow managed to get a second in place,
and it actually looks good.  Trying the next one and I'm just getting mad.
It just doesn't seem to want to re-flow and set down into place.  I've tried
adding a little flux but doesn't seem to be doing much good.
 
Is there some other trick I'm missing?  Do I need to just sit it on the bare
pads and flow in solder from the side like you would for through-hole
components?  I'm really starting to hate surface-mount soldering...but maybe
I'm just doing something wrong...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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RE: Clicking 40mb Fujitsu SCSI HDD, ideas?

[Wesley Furr]

In my experience with hard drives, clicking as you describe pretty much
means it is toast...I don't think I've ever gotten one with such symptoms to
come back to life.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news...I know that's not what you wanted to
hear!

Wesley
 

-Original Message-
From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jon Gilbert
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 10:14 AM
To: Vintage Macs List
Subject: Clicking 40mb Fujitsu SCSI HDD, ideas?

I have a sick 40mb Fujitsu SCSI HDD from a Mac IIci. The drive spins up,
makes some initial healthy reading sounds, then starts to click loudly
with about a 1-second interval between clicks. The type of clicking sound is
almost more like a knocking sound, and if you place a hand on the drive
itself, you can actually feel the knocking. It's as if the read heads are
ramming up against their internal stopper, which makes me think the
controller board is bad, perhaps. I tried the freezer trick and right at
first when it was very cold, it seemed to help, so I shut the machine down
and connected the external optical drive -- but then the problem came back
after just a moment. Sigh.

Does anyone have any suggestions for this issue? I have been able to fix
several drives that had stiction by using the spinning with your hand
method, but this drive spins up just fine. However if it's connected, the
Mac never even gets to the question mark screen, and stays at the initial
gray screen. 

Thanks for any tips,

Jon Gilbert,
Portland, OR

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RE: IIci battery issues

[Wesley Furr]

I've started working towards going through my computer collection and making
sure all batteries are removed...and it's been a depressing experience so
far.  From what I've read, in the Mac world, Maxell batteries are bad news.
In the PC world, seems like everything I have with a non-button cell type
battery is leaking...at least the 4 or 5 or so I've gotten to so far.  And
all but one have been dead...and the one that is still alive won't recognize
a keyboard that is plugged in.  :-(  The worst was the old IBM AT 5170
motherboard I had in a drawer...stupid me left the 4xAA CMOS battery holder
laying on top of the board, face down, with batteries still installed.
Ugh...and to add insult to injury, another of my semi-treasured motherboards
was laying on top and leaked some battery crap down onto it...so somewhere
between those two...it's dead...plus the one that had been laying on top of
it is dead too.  Heavy sigh...  Many of the older 386/486 era PC's have a
soldered-on NiCd or NiMH battery, and they all seem to be leaking deadly
goop...which means you have to take the board out to get the snips to the
area to remove said battery.  I need to get to the Mac's as well...got a
IIci and IIcx (or something like that)...hoping they aren't damaged.  Then
there are the LC's...and I know some of those need new caps...  I didn't
know computer collecting could be time consuming as well!

So...the moral of the story...go through everything and TAKE OUT THE
BATTERIES!!!

Wesley


-Original Message-

Sadly I had the same thing happen. Maxell battery exploded and I did not
notice it before it corroded the heck out of my machine while in storage.
Want to join a class-action lawsuit against Maxell with me for making
defective batteries? LOL. I feel Maxell owes me a Mac IIci...!

Jon Gilbert, Portland, OR

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RE: Soldering Station - was: Are my 2 Powerbook 100 only for the trashcan?

[Wesley Furr]

Thanks to everyone for their input.  After some digging around, I stumbled
into a clone of the Hakko 936, the Yihua 936...  Found a youtube comparison
of the two, and while not quite as refined, I think it will do fine.  I
found it for $16 (plus $14 shipping) at
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=19240
 
Apparently it will use the Hakko tips, as well as those from Radio Shack.
I'll report back once I've used it some, but sounds like it will suit my
purposes just fine.  Also, if anyone is going to order one, open up the page
and let it sit there for a while.  I had an extra browser tab open and after
ordering, came back to that tab and it said something along the lines of we
noticed you've been sitting here a while and offered a one-time shot at
buying it for about $1 less.  Grumble, grumble...oh well.
 
Thanks again to all!
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of theonetruestick...@gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 9:08 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Soldering Station - was: Are my 2 Powerbook 100 only for the
trashcan?


 
If you're going to spend $70 on an iron anyway and plan to do a bit of
soldering the triple-8, or a comparable iron, is the way to go. I think the
Weller WES51 is pretty similar, though I've not read up on it, and it may
have better tip selection.You might also be able to find a good deal on a
used Hakko 936 if you hunt around, those were the precursor to the FX-888
and were also pretty good. 


Stickman



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RE: Soldering Station - was: Are my 2 Powerbook 100 only for the trashcan?

[Wesley Furr]

Thanks for everyone's input and thoughts...I'll have to stew on it all when
I have a little more time and pick something out and put in an order.

Wow...when you put it in that perspective, it is quite funny.  :-)  Amazing
how far we have come!  Thanks for sharing.  I can't imagine trying to work
with an iron heated in an over...wow..  But...I guess if you can do that,
you can do about anything!  :-)

Wesley


-Original Message-


When I learned electronics in high school it was tubes.  Transistors had
just been invented but were not commercially available. We wrapped our own
coils for our one tube radio receivers and soldered the circuits using
terminal strips.  The soldering irons were passive - oblong chunks of copper
that we had to file smooth and tin every day this on a steel shaft with a
wooden handle.  In total, about 16 long.
By passive, I mean we had to heat them in little natural gas ovens that two
classmates would share.  I'm in hysterics thinking about a password
protected digital soldering iron.. I've got an old pencil iron that got me
through my life so far but this discussion has forced me into replying.. too
funny - password protected soldering iron.  I know, I know it makes sense
for that environment but you hit my funny bone, that's all.

Just had to share.

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Soldering Station - was: Are my 2 Powerbook 100 only for the trashcan?

[Wesley Furr]

Are there any others you would recommend?  Found it on Amazon with some
mixed reviews.  Wouldn't mind spending more than $20...but not sure I want
to spend $80 that Radio Shack wants for their digital soldering
station...though it does look nice!

I've got at least one old Mac that I know I need to replace caps in (haven't
done one yet = this one is an LC)...also want to try some PCB assembly on a
board with a fairly small pitch between pins and components...

Thanks,

Wesley


-Original Message-

i think this soldering iron is great for people starting out.  
i like the ones that are adjustable.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/391342/Low-Cost_Soldering_Station


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RE: Old apple Printers

[Wesley Furr]

In the PC world, a Laserjet 4 (plain 4) driver will run many models of
printers...I'm guessing a 6P included.  But...someone else mentioned
postscript...which I know is an Apple thing, and I know almost nothing
about...  Regardless, I would tell your Mac it's a Laserjet 4 and see what
happens...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Android
Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2013 9:43 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Old apple Printers


Hi all,

Until recently I had a HP laserjet 4ML which worked very well with my Mac
Quadra 950 OS 7.6.1.

The gear on the main motor cracked.  I found a used printer locally, a HP
laserjet 6P, but I am unsure if it will work with the Quadra, and if it
will, how hard it will be for me to install the required software or
drivers.  My internet access is PC only, and we all know the issues with the
vintage Mac  fork file system and PC saved files.

I did take a look on the Quadra for drivers, but I really do not know where
to look. 
Chooser has a thingy I can click on for HP Postscript printers, or Laser
writer 8.

I also found a place called DeskTop Printers in which are a few icons
relating to HP laserjet 4M, laserjet 4ML, HP 2200 and laserwriter 12/640.

In addition to the broken 4ML printer I have, I also have an apple
laserwriter 16/600 PS, which needs a toner cartridge before I can try it on
the quadra.

Will the  HP Laserjet 6P work on my system without any additional
software/drivers?
Will the 16/600 work without any additional software or drivers?

Where can I learn more about old Macs and printers?

Thanks

Android

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Mac LC/LCII/etc Capacitor Replacement

[Wesley Furr]

Finally picked up an original Mac LC recently...and have a number of other
older related Mac's too...several LCII's, an LC475, a IIci, and I think a
IIcx...plus some newer power mac/G3's I snagged cheap from the local
recycling place.  :-)  At any rate...I was just looking more closely at the
LC, and it clearly has leaked gunk out of the capacitors...as folks here
seemed to indicate was nearly guaranteed to happen.  :-(  So...I probably
need to re-cap that one and at least some of the others sooner than later...
 
I guess the first question would be...if they are just sitting around not
being used, are the caps leaking more?  Or does it pretty much only happen
when the machine is powered on?  Some of these I haven't powered on in
years...
 
Next question...are all of them SMD surface-mount caps?  That is what it is
looking like from browsing around online a bit...  I've replaced a good
number of capacitors in things, but have never worked with surface-mount
capacitors.  Any tips on how to do this successfully?  I found one page that
showed how to cut the top off, lift off then bottom, then snap the bottom
plastic piece in two and take it out, then desolder the leads...looks like a
good way to get them off anyway.  Then of course the next question is how to
re-install!  Anyway...any tips folks could provide would be appreciated!
 
And for cleaning up the leftover leaked stuff...how should that be cleaned?
Q-tip with rubbing alcohol good enough?  Or is it safe to just leave it
alone?
 
And lastly...what should I replace them with?  One place was indicating that
tantalum was a better option that electrolytic...any reason not to go that
route? Thoughts?  And where should I buy them?  I've been getting
electrolytics for through-hole soldering off of ebay from various
sources...making sure to get good ones of course...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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RE: SE30

[Wesley Furr]

Not sure what you're waiting for to dissipate...but if it's the monitor, it
will hold a lethal charge for a very very long time...always be careful
around CRT monitors...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of kjamison2002...@yahoo.co.uk
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2012 11:17 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: SE30


With the machine switched off, and left for any charge to dissipate:


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RE: Apple LCIII - How to appraise value for Donation to Mueseum

[Wesley Furr]

While more modern computers will likely never be worth anything near
something rare, like an Apple I, they do seem to increase with time.
Thinking of the computers I worked with when I was in school...the IIe,
IIgs, and Mac LC...at the time they were put out to pasture from schools and
such, they were old technology, not worth anything, and I'm sure many ended
up in the landfill.  I picked up a few LCII's and a few IIe cards back in
the early 2000's when no one seemed interested in them, and they were cheap.
Today, they seem to demand a little more, as I'm sure fewer exist and there
is more interest in them now that they are older.  The IIgs is a better
example...found one when they were cheap, around the same time frame, and
now they are definitely bringing higher prices.  I guess what I'm saying is,
there is a time when demand does drop off precipitously as you note...but
given time, that will often turn around and the price goes back up.  I guess
only time will tell what the value truly ends up being...

Wesley


-Original Message-

The problem with computing technology of any kind is that, as it ages, the
demand for it typically drops off precipitously.  Meaning that there is
little demand for a computer that was first introduced in 1993 in 2012.  As
far as collectors go, an old computer -might- be worth money if it is a
particularly noteworthy machine (e.g. an Altair 8800) or one of which a
relatively limited number was made (e.g. an Apple I).  

Unfortunately, the LC III doesn't fit either of those descriptions.  Apple
made a lot of those and I haven't heard of the LC III ever being a rare or
sought-after machine.  In fact, someone was giving away an LC III on this
very list earlier in the month:

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RE: Conversion Conundrum

[Wesley Furr]

My thought process would be to use a modern PC (but not *too* modern since
it has to have a floppy drive!!) as that is (gasp) what I use...perhaps this
will be of help, sounds like someone did the same thing you are trying to
do:

http://www.emaculation.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6902

Or something like this:

http://www.macdisk.com/mcwriten.php

Wesley


-Original Message-
From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of RE
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 5:36 AM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Conversion Conundrum

I have a fully working Mac Plus with an external floopy drive and a working
ImageWriter II.
We have some MacWrite documents that I want to convert to RTF.

 My plan is to obtain amothet Vintage Mac that can read the Mac Plus floppy
disks, can convert the MacWrite files to RTF, and have the ability to burn
these files to CD or send them via emai.

I was tinkling that a Macintosh LC II with ClarisWorks (which version?)
would work. What about a Macintosh LC 575?

My other option is to print he files and then scan them to PDF. The is my
plan only as a last resort.

Your thoughts about how to solve this issue are mst welcome.

Thank you,
Ruth

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RE: Looking for people collecting Macs near me

[Wesley Furr]

Interesting how we are so evenly spaced for the most part...

Wesley


-Original Message-


So, I am curious enough to suggest this to the group:

I have set up a shared google map, where we can indicate our locations. I
have dropped a pin for myself on the nearest major intersection rather than
reveal my exact location, but it serves as a rough proximity locator. I
included a small blurb. The map is not publicly listed, but is accessible to
anyone with the url. Also, anyone with the url can edit the map, but I think
you need a google account to do so.

http://goo.gl/maps/uoYc

In this way, we might be able to visualize our distribution on the map, and
connect more directly with fellow hoarders, err, collectors.

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Anybody want an HDI-20 External Floppy Drive?

[Wesley Furr]

In the process of sorting through piles of stuff (though my wife and most
others would probably use the word junk!), I came across a Macintosh
HDI-20 External 1.4MB Floppy Disk Drive.  Looks like was used with some
Powerbooks.  Has an odd square connector.  No way to test...don't recall
where I got it from either.  Has a $2 yard sale type sticker on it...not
sure if I paid $2, or if that was left over from a yard sale long ago when I
was trying to sell it!  If someone wants to pay shipping and maybe a dollar
or two for my troubles, then it is yours!  Otherwise I'll send it on to the
local thrift shop or recycling place...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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RE: 1 month after house fire: safe to start macs?

[Wesley Furr]

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.  :-(  Any chance your insurance will cover
replacements purchased via ebay or wherever?

I'd say you don't have anything to lose!  I like someone's suggestion about
a power strip to turn them on with...I would even sit it outside on the
sidewalk or something to be really safe...though worst-case, it would
probably just pop and spark and blow something internally...

I once worked on a computer that had been submersed in a flood.  The fans
and floppy/CD drive were shot, but everything else was fine after I scrubbed
them in the sink with a toothbrush and running water.  Even the hard drive
was just fine...

Wesley


-Original Message-


If it's been a month, they should power up fine after submersion...
The hard drives might be dead though.

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RE: Simple, cheap 4.5v PRAM battery for Mac Plus

[Wesley Furr]

I was moving some computers out of storage in our unfinished upstairs to the
new storage shed out back, and found that the Lithium CMOS battery in my
neat old IBM PS/2 Model 60 (monstrous tower that actually has a carrying
handle!) had leaked and caused a mess inside.  :-(  I think I have another
somewhere that I can probably swap parts if I want to try to bring it back
to life...but...left me wondering if I needed to worry in a similar manner
about the PRAM battery in any of the couple old Mac's I have?

Thanks,

Wesley


-Original Message-

Batteries Plus carries it - but it's $14. Eveready #523 equivalent.
That's too rich for my blood.

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Macs Requiring real Apple Monitor?

[Wesley Furr]

I'm cleaning up and cleaning out...I have in my collection a few Mac's,
LCII/III's, two that are somewhat newer, then I also have a IIci and IIcx.
Just because I don't have time to hook it up and find out myself, I thought
I would inquire of the minds here...do the older IIci and IIcx need to have
a real apple monitor, or will they work with with an adapter on a regular
modern HD15 cabled generic monitor?  I know the LC's will as I've used
them with it...which means the others should.  I have an old Apple Mac
monitor laying around and I'd like to get rid of it, but I don't want to do
that and then find out my LCD and adapter won't work with the oldest ones...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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RE: Who will fix My Radius 21 greyscale monitor

[Wesley Furr]

The only thing I could suggest that might be reasonable would be to ask and
call around and see if you can find someone in your area who still does
monitor repairs.  There's a guy in my local area that I know in days gone by
repaired CRT monitors and is still in business and repairs LCD's...so I'm
sure someone like him might be able to get it going...or at least take a
look at it.  I know how it is when you have something you really like and
are faced with the thought of having to give up on it...and that sucks!
 
Wesley
 

  _  


My Radius 21 greyscale monitor (as I wrote earlier) has a vertical flicker.
 
I have removed it and put my OTHER Radius 21 greyscale that works fine in
its place
 
Now I want to find someone to fix the flickering monitor.

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RE: Email netiquette (Re: IIci vs. SSD)

[Wesley Furr]

Well said...  Back in the olden days, that's the way it was.  Nowadays I've
gotten used to top-posting, and I'll proudly stand up and say I personally
prefer it that way...but only if the message has been cleaned up.  For me, I
usually already know what the thread is about by the subject...if I've been
following along, there is probably not a need to scroll down through
everything already posted before as I've probably already read it a few
times.  If I've missed something or am coming in half-way, then I'm happy to
scroll down and see what I've missed...better than scrolling through three
pages to find a one-line reply at the bottom...

But, I can also happily deal with it either way...getting all bent out of
shape accomplishes nothing other than to show off your ugly side.

Now...can we get back to the subject everyone is here to discuss?

Wesley


-Original Message-

Maybe you should be blaming the software vendors whose mail clients invite
users to post this way by positioning the cursor *above* the quoted reply, a
practice started (if I'm not mistaken) by Microsoft and copied by Apple and
Google, instead of berating users who had no clue that their software was
actively encouraging them to do things considered obnoxious.

I don't like top-posting either, but your response was inappropriate.
Flaming people for being ignorant was something you could get away with a
couple decades ago before the Eternal September, but we lost the numbers
advantage a long time ago and now must resort to gentler methods.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_posting

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eternal_September

http://xkcd.com/386/

If you really want people to stop top-posting, get Google, Apple, and
whoever else to fix their email clients.

Josh

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RE: Using pc 720KB disks as 800KB disks

[Wesley Furr]

Should work just fine...you will of course have to re-format them to Mac
format...

Wesley


-Original Message-

Is it going to work? I have some pc 720KB disks but no 800KB and I am going
to get a Mac plus. Does it have some problems or will it just work? I would
like to know.

Juhano

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RE: Super clean (but slightly sick) Mac Plus

[Wesley Furr]

If it will handle parity chips, I've probably got some around somewhere (of
of PC's) that I could spare...  I always assumed Mac's had to have
non-parity...

Wesley


-Original Message-

 I'm thinking of replacing the 4 256k sticks. Any ideas where I could 
 obtain some?

May as well go for 1 meg SIMMs to max out the RAM. You'll have to find
surplus or used SIMMs.

Try the LEM Swap e-mail list or someone on here might have some. Non-parity
is the type needed but parity ones should work, the Mac will simply ignore
the 9th bit.

The only 68k Mac to require parity 30 pin SIMMs was the IIci some US
Government agencies used. It had an extra parity controller chip on the
motherboard. Civilian IIci versions have an empty spot for that chip.

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RE: Strange Sound after Startup Chime (Dying Capacitors)

[Wesley Furr]

Most definitely...had that happen to an old Tandy PC of mine...a neat old
286...wow...yuck.  I really need to pull it out and try to do something to
at least stop the damage from getting any worse.  Probably no hope of it
ever running again though...  :-(  So yes...take a few minutes and pull
batteries out of your old stuff in storage!

Wesley


-Original Message-

On a similar note, always, always, always remember to remove the logic board
battery before storing a machine.  If you think capacitor goo is damaging,
leaking batteriesUgh.

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RE: Strange Sound after Startup Chime (Dying Capacitors)

[Wesley Furr]

Great info...thanks!!

Wesley
 

-Original Message-

The easiest way to remove them is to get two soldering pencils and apply one
to each lead on the cap until the solder is fully melted and the capacitor
will lift up without applying any substantial force.
Getting impatient and forcing the cap up leads to lifted pads and torn
traces.

I use a pair of 15 watt soldering pencils from radio shack for this (  $10
each) but 15 watts is a little underpowered.  It takes a
little longer than optimum to heat the caps enough to remove them.   A
pair of 25 watt or even 40 watt might be better.

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RE: Strange Sound after Startup Chime (Dying Capacitors)

[Wesley Furr]

The issue you link to is a more modern issue...not to mention I don't
recall seeing capacitors as large as the problem ones in older 80's to early
90's hardware.  I believe the comment was about the little surface mount
capacitors rather than the big radial electrolytic ones that have caused so
many problems...

Thanks,

Wesley


-Original Message-

Yup, PC mainboards get hit by it too. Google for capacitor plague.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague


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RE: Strange Sound after Startup Chime (Dying Capacitors)

[Wesley Furr]

Ugh...that doesn't bode well!  I guess emulation will be the way to use
our vintage computers in the future...
 
Wesley
 

  _  


They all go bad after a long lifetime. The plaugue happened when I was
working at a computer repair shop. I went from seeing very few problems
caused by capacitors to resoldering caps and replacing motherboards almost
daily. The formula messup might have been bad for consumers, but it
certainly was good for repair shops. Anything recent from around 04-07 would
have this specific problem, but yeah overall after 10-15 years capacitors
are just done.
 
Good example of this is my Sega Game Gear. Got one for christmas back in
1994 and played it daily. After many years of it sitting in a closet, I went
to use it and realized the sound was gone. Turns out I just have to replace
those capacitors too. Same issue with my Macintosh Portable stuff. 

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RE: Strange Sound after Startup Chime (Dying Capacitors)

[Wesley Furr]

How do you manage to replace those puny little surface-mount jobbies though?
Through-the-board electrolytics aren't a problem, I've done a number of them
over the years...
 
Wesley
 

  _  


Actually, it's not that hard to replace the capacitors. It could be easily
done with two hours work at the most. 

Eric


 

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RE: Strange Sound after Startup Chime (Dying Capacitors)

[Wesley Furr]

GroanLOL!

Do they tend to leak due to use (heat) and age, or is just being old enough
for them to crap out?  I've got a little collection of old computers, just
wondering if they are likely failing even though they are just sitting
around 99.99% of the time (or more).  Has anyone observed
this problem on PC's of that late 80's to early 90's era also?  Or is it
mainly Mac's and gaming consoles?

Thanks,

Wesley
 

-Original Message-

To the tune of Bad Boys the COPS theme song... ;)

Bad caps, Bad Caps
Whatcha gonna do, Whatcha gonna do,
When they leak that goo?

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RE: Need to write 800k floppy disks for my Macintosh

[Wesley Furr]

Unless my memory is wrong (same disclaimer as yours!), I was able to use a
program on my PC to write an image file to a Mac disk...but that was likely
a high density disk destined for a Mac LCII...and perhaps that is different
than the 800k disks...?

Wesley


-Original Message-

Going from MEMORY (Always subject to adjustment/ correction] the drive
mechanisms are different. The 'pc' drives rotate at a constant speed.  
While Apple, used a 'much more technically advanced method' Rotational  
speed vaaried depending ov which track was being accessed.[ducks  
for cover]

Chuck

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RE: WTB: LocalTalk PC Card?

[Wesley Furr]

I've been scheming and planning to do that myself.  Unfortunately, as
usually happens, real life has gotten me busy and that project has gone by
the wayside...  But...my plans were to use a LocalTalk to Ethernet bridge
device to do it - such as the Asante Asantetalk, which I have one of.  I've
just not had time to set everything up and give it a try...
 
It is pretty amusing that Linux has support for it, but the new Mac's don't.
It wouldn't (shouldn't anyway) be difficult to use Netatalk somehow since
OSX (as far as I know) is based on on a Unix core...
 
Wesley
 

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Britt Dodd
Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 4:36 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: WTB: LocalTalk PC Card?



I've mentioned this before. Its netatalk. It supports the appletalk as a
protocol (over Ethernet) not localtalk as a physical connection between
computers. I'be used this successfully in many situations.

On Apr 10, 2011 4:09 PM, Doug McNutt dougl...@macnauchtan.com wrote:
 At 20:39 +0200 4/10/11, Tjabring van Egten wrote:
I would like to connect my Linux box to a LocalTalk network. I've been
reading
about it and I know it is possible with a LocalTalk PC Card. In the 80 and
90
made by Farallon, Dayna, Tangent and Novell. They are supported by the
Linux
kernel.

Is there anyone who would like to sell his of her card to me?

Known supported types are:

Dayna DL2000
Daynatalk/PC (half length)
COPS LT-95
Farallon PhoneNET PC II
Farallon PhoneNET PC III

Tangent ATB_II
Novell NL-1000
Daystar Digital LT-200.

Kind regards from The Netherlands,

T. van Egten
 
 You don't say what low-end Mac you're involved with but. . .
 
 There is a lot of difference between LocalTalk and Apple file sharing
using a LocalTalk pair. The LocalTalk pair is nothing more than an RS 485
connection that allows multiple balanced serial connections on a pair of
wires with terminators at the ends. The Farallon cards were mostly a way to
take advantage of RG11 - cheap - telephone style connectors to replace the
MiniDIN connectors that Apple used.
 
 It is news to me that any Linux kernel would support Apple file sharing
that way. Apple's own OS X.4 and higher don't even do that.
 
 I find that my SE/30, with an Asante card, and my Mac IIFX with a nubus
ethernet card can communicate with Linux using NetPresenz from what was
Stairways software but still exists for the Interarchy FTP and HTTP clients.
 -- 
 
 -- From the U S of A, the only socialist country that refuses to admit
it. --
 
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RE: I need a cable.

[Wesley Furr]

Are you sure it's a SCSI zip and not a parallel port zip for a PC?  Here's
an image so you can see what both of them look like:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ronica/3235092343/

Wesley



-Original Message-


The ZIP comes with a cable with db 25 male on one end and a db 25 female on
the other end. I do have  two 25/50s that work with the comp and Iomega but
when I plug it in nothing works. The comp has a blinking question mark and
that's it. When I unplug the extra cable it works . . . ?

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RE: I need a cable.

[Wesley Furr]

Almost...the ZIP drive is definitely (unless there is some variation I've
never run into) DB-25 - like this -
http://de.academic.ru/pictures/dewiki/115/scsi_extern_db25_st.jpg .  Make
sure it's a SCSI ZIP drive and not a parallel ZIP drive...  By the original
description, I'm guessing the Mac end is probably HD-50?  Like this -
http://www.cs-electronics.com/images-large/ValueLine-HD50.jpg
 
So perhaps the perfect cable would be one like this -
http://store.stsi.com/assets/images/products/scsi-db25-hd50-06_2.jpg ?  Just
search ebay (or google) for hd50 db25 cable and you'll find what you
need...
 
Wesley

  _  

From: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintage-macs@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Abel Ortiz Monasterio
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 9:43 PM
To: vintage-macs@googlegroups.com
Cc: Mark Kronquist
Subject: Re: I need a cable.


Is this what you are looking for? I have one on my ZIP (never have tried it
one of my projects from when my 2 year old turns 3)


http://cgi.ebay.com/HP-HD5O-Male-Cent-50-Male-SCSI-II-Cable-SCIS2-6-/2603758
46406?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
http://cgi.ebay.com/HP-HD5O-Male-Cent-50-Male-SCSI-II-Cable-SCIS2-6-/260375
846406?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3c9f9c1e06 hash=item3c9f9c1e06

Do a search for SCSI II on ebay there are several types of cables on of
those must be it.



On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 8:31 PM, Mark Kronquist m...@teleport.com wrote:


SCSI A (small 25 pin to SCSI B wide 50 pin)

On Mar 21, 2011, at 6:09 PM, Doug wrote:

 Hello all. You've given me great service in the past so now I'm asking
 again.

 I have a Quadra 610 and I recently got an Iomega ZIP drive. What I
 need now is a cable with a wide end, the other end being a smaller
 end. I owned the Quadra for nearly 20 years and it works, as well as
 can be expected But I know none of the cable names. Is there such a
 cable as I describe.

 Doug

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RE: 1990s era HP 855Cse DeskJet color printer (22307)

[Wesley Furr]

Reminds me of the (alleged) IBM service manual about mouse balls:

http://www.neystadt.org/john/humor/IBM-Mouse-Balls.htm

As for the printer, feed problems were definitely the big problem with those
older models.  The 500's actually had a piece you could get (at least as an
HP service center) that would scrub the rollers to renew them.  Worked
like a champ...  Wish they still made printers like that!  The new HP stuff
is pretty much junk...but I still don't know that anyone else makes
appreciably better hardware...

Wesley
 

-Original Message-

Don't you think the mice should clean their own balls

Bad joke but couldn't resist, sorry!

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RE: What is a Mac formated Komag 128 Rewritable disk?

[Wesley Furr]

Sounds like it is a 128Mb MO indeed.  Does the disk look like this?

http://skinflint.co.uk/a270272.html 

I've got a few of them and a drive here that I had hooked up to my PC for a
while.  Looks like they aren't all that easy to come by on ebay...at least
not outside of the folks that $100-200+ for them.  I don't even recall where
I got mine now...

Wesley


-Original Message-

I have received a request to transfer data from a Komag 128 MB rewritable
disk to a CD.

After a Google search I found little info but suspect the disk falls into
the magneto-optical category. What drive is required to do read this disk?

Here is a description  from the requester:
I do know that they were used on a Mac system [predates 1997]. They're
almost exactly  the size of two stacked 3.5 floppy diskettes, with the write
protect notch in the same position. There are two of them labelled Komag
128 MB rewritable.

Any info appreciated, thanks -- glen

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RE: Looking for 12X cdrom module for 3400c

[Wesley Furr]

Is the CD drive you speak of an IDE CD drive?  If yes and it has a standard
laptop-style tray load (as opposed to slot load), then any laptop drive
should work for you.  In my (limited) experience (in the PC world), the size
and connection is standard, and the bezel is interchangeable.

Wesley
 

-Original Message-

Hi all:

I am looking to buy a 12X CD-ROM module for a Powerbook 3400C I just
acquired.  Would need asking price and s/h to Lawrence, Kansas 66046 also
could trade my 1400C module if someone wants it.

Please advise.

Thanks and hope someone has one... or alternatively, a SCSI adapter from PB
to 25 pin which I could hook my external SCSI CD writer to the PB that way.
Though not sure if that will boot or not.

Hope someone can help.

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RE: Powerbook 190 (Mac OS Licensing)

[Wesley Furr]

How does licensing work in the Mac world?  I'm more a PC guy (who used Apple
II and Mac-LC era machines back in school days), so my perspective for
comparison comes from there...  In the PC world (at least since the later
Windows 95 days), the PC manufacturer put a label on the PC when it was
built and that is the license for the machine, as well as the ID key to
install it with.  So if you have a PC with a Windows 2000 label, you're
legal to grab a Windows 2000 CD and install it back on the system.

If you get an old Mac with a dead hard drive and no documentation, how do
you know what version of the Mac OS you are legal to use on it?  I'm
assuming all Macs shipped with an OS license of some sort?  In which case
Joel might be legal to use a copy given to him?

Not trying to argue here, just trying to understand how this all works...

Thanks,

Wesley


-Original Message-

Anyone who makes a copy for Joel will be violating copyright laws.
 Mac O/S 8.1 is still available for sale.

Willi
Moderator of the Vintage Macs group

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RE: SCSI Zip drives Re: USB on old macs

[Wesley Furr]

Very interesting...looks more like an external unit retrofitted to work
internally.  The first internal zip drive I recall working with was blue
(that color scheme for internals didn't seem to last long)...as I recall it
was SCSI (actually I'm sure it was, the IDE's didn't come till later on),
but it was 3.5 in a 5.25 drive bay adapter that was also blue...of course
you could take it out of the adapter and it would go in a 3.5 bay.

It would be interesting to take apart an early external zip and see if it
looks like your internal unit...

Wesley


-Original Message-

I happen to have an early internal SCSI Zip 100 drive. It has to use a 5.25
half-height bay because the circuit board is wider than the drive mechanism.

Pics here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/27748...@n08/

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RE: Mac LC II Questions

[Wesley Furr]

Thanks for your reply!

The dead PRAM battery would make sense then...one or maybe both that did
fire up needed a power cycle or so before they would come up - sounds like
maybe that PRAM battery gets some charge from the computer?  I will have to
look into replacement...

The working hard drive is an IBM 40Mb.  The other two are both Quantum 80Mb
drives.  My Windows PC will recognize and read data (via the TransMAC
program) off of the 40Mb.  Both Quantums are dead - the SCSI card in my PC
won't even recognize that they are plugged in.  Kinda weird as they both
spin up and make noise like they are alive...usually even dead or dying
drives are at least ID'ed by the system at boot time...  Oh well!  The IBM
seems to be working fine, but it is a bit noisy (spindle noise)...I guess
I'm just worried that the other two are dead and it might not be far
behind...

I do not have any bootable Mac disks.  I do have blank floppies I can dig
out and try to use.  I found one on my desk...when I put it in it asked if I
wanted to format it.  I said yes, it worked a minute, then spit it out and
said format failed.  I'll have to try again with another disk...seems like
half the floppies I try to use lately (in the PC world) only about half want
to work...which is amazing as the old 5.25's that are years older seem to
continue working just fine!

From some more reading, I'm gathering that to make a bootable disk, perhaps
all you have to do is format it and copy the system folder to it?  And
then after using the disk tools boot disk (which I don't have), I can
initialize another hard drive, then boot off the floppy and copy the
system folder back to it and it becomes bootable?  At which point, you
copy the System 7.5.3 files over and do the proper install?

I'll have to dig out the newer Mac...hopefully it will still work too!
Pretty sure it's SCSI...and also pretty sure it has Ethernet.  I also seem
to recall messing around with it years ago and somehow managing to browse a
Windows PC to copy files around...

Thanks,

Wesley


-Original Message-

I have not personally ever seen/used an LC, but from what I've seen time and
time again on this website, dead PRAM batteries are often the reason these
computers dont chime, have a black screen, etc. Thats why the drive worked
in one machine but not the other. I wouldnt worry about the drive that works
(for now) unless it makes funny sounds. The other disks could possiby be
broken, corrupted, etc.

Also, could you please give more details on the newer Mac you have.
Like, what model is it, what OS version, does it have SCSI, etc. I assume
you can get files from your PC to your newer mac?

Do you have any floppies you could maybe boot up the LC with? And can you
connect the drives that show the flahing question mark  to your Windows PC?

Lastly, I would open up the case of the LC IIs and clean out the dust with
compressed air, as well as make sure all hard drive cables are snuggly
connected.

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Mac LC II Questions

[Wesley Furr]

Hello all,
 
I found this group while doing some digging around on the internet.  Back in
the late 80's and early 90's, I was in school and using Apple II's, IIGS's
and Mac LC's.  I never ended up having a Mac at home, so my experience was
limited.  Since then I've had extensive experience in the PC world, but I
know next to nothing about Mac's.  Some years back I got on a kick and
between locally and ebay auctions, I have most of those old machines that I
used in my school days.  I used them a bit, and then they were put away and
haven't been fired up in probably 7 years or so.
 
This evening I dug out my nicest looking LC II (of 3 I have) and fired it
up.  Flashing ? disk icon.  Grabbed another, won't give any chime or video
display.  The 3rd gives me a flashing ? disk icon again.  The one that
wouldn't boot had a different hard drive, so I swapped it into another one
and it booted up.  So now I'm wondering how long this other aging drive
might last...and lots of questions about getting the others back up and
running.
 
I found the System 7.5.3 install disk images on Apple's web site.  If I can
find a suitable SCSI drive to put in one of these machines, how can I get
the OS reinstalled from the files I have downloaded on my Windows PC?  I do
have a somewhat newer Mac (180MHz CPU I think?  If that gives any clue to
age, etc - I'd have to dig it up to find out the details) that I might be
able to use as a go-between if need be.  I also have a SCSI CD-ROM I could
hook up to the LC II if there's any way to use it?  Pretty sure I also have
a SCSI ZIP drive that I could use as well if that is compatible.
 
My other thought is if there is any way to make a copy of the hard drive
that is working?  I found a program called TransMac that let me browse the
hard drive and create a DMG image file of it when I connected it to my
Windows PC.  But...how can I get that image back to another drive that I can
use to fire up the Mac?  Or is there another way to copy the hard drive?
 
Two of the three have IIe cards in them, and I'd like to play with that,
which is half the reason for digging them out of storage.  It looks like the
working drive I have may contain a 15Mb ProDOS partition, as the Mac HFS
partition appears to be only 25Mb (on a 40Mb drive).  If I wanted a ProDOS
partition on a new hard drive, how would that fit into the above scenarios?
 
Guess I better stop with those questions for now...many thanks in advance
for any help anyone may be able to offer...
 
Thanks,
 
Wesley
 

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