Re: [BlindHandyMan] Thumb Saver
Hi Dave If someone buys one on the list then perhaps they can tell us how it all works. Regards Ray - Original Message - From: David Ferrin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 11:23 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Thumb Saver Now this is why we keep you around, I am going to ask for such an animal the next time I visit Lowes, good man. David Ferrin [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Boyce, Ray To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 9:09 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Thumb Saver Hi All Ever hit your thumb and let out some bad language, well here is a device that might help ThumbSaver Never Hit Your Thumb Again! Strong magnet holds a Nail, Staple, Screw, almost any fastener! Be kind to your thumbs. Use Thumb Savers.Be kind to your thumbs! This ingenious tool designed and tested by real tradesmen lends a helping hand when driving nails, screws, fence staples, or just about any fastener. You can use Thumb Saver on nearly any job from fine trim or craft work to the largest framing jobs, building fences, decks or installing joist hangers. ThumbSaver works great for screws, staples, others than just nails. Click on picture for larger view. Easy to use! A strong magnet is machined into the durable ergonomically designed aluminum shaft and finished off with a comfort grip. Just pull the tool out of your pack or tool belt, pick up a fastener with the magnet and drive the nail or screw! Once you use it you will know why it is called the Thumb Saver! ThumbSaver in light weight aluminum with comfortable plastic grip. Click on picture for larger view. Durable Aluminum with Comfortable Grip and Lightweight Design! * Large ThumbSaver is 7 1/2 inches long w 7/8 inch grip * Mini ThumbSaver is 6 inches long with 5/8 inch grip Some of the many uses recommended by professionals and consumers: Holds picture hanges easily, even in tight quarters. Click on picture for larger view. Picture hangers Ever try to install wire staples without hammering your fingers? Click on picture for larger view. Wire staples Holds drive screws as well as nails. Click on picture for larger view. Drive screws * Framing Walls * Hanging Pictures * Nailing Construction Hangers * Installing Trim * Installing Blinds/Curtain Rods * Craft Projects * Jewelry Making * Upholstery Tacks * Installing Roof Shingles * Driving Wire Staples * Installing Paneling * Hard to reach spots * Building Decks * Installing Shelves * Hanger Shutters * Installing Door Hinges * Assembling Furniture * Installing Drywall * Building Cabinets * Building Fences * Retrieving Fish Hooks * Driving Fence Staples * Assembling Playsets * And many more ... Install pipe strap in difficult places behind water heaters, pipes, etc. Click for larger view. pipe hangers Easier in those close quarters on the floor too. Click for larger view. hard to reach Great for hard to reach places. Click for larger view. hard to reach NEW! A Great Gift for 'hard to buy for' handy-people! ThumbSaver packaging: 1 each large and mini. Click on picture for larger view. ThumbSaver Pkg!Includes 1 each large and mini $ 14.95 / pkg $ 12.95 / pkg 1 Every now and then you see something and say to yourself What a great idea... Wish I had thought of that! Next thing you buy it, use it and it performs just as advertised! From the hobbyist to the Pro the ThumbSaver is a must have in your tool belt! Find it here http://www.awesometools.com/thumbsaver-thumb-saver.asp ** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] brazing
Hi, does any one know any thing about brazing?? So far I have got some MAP gas for my hand torch it's the same one that I have used for soldering. Also got some brazing rods now what I need to know do you more or less do the brazing the same as soldering??? THANKS ROB from Minnesota [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing
Hello Rob, I lifted the below from Wikipedia. My guess is that you won't get anything like enough heat out of a soldering torch to do any significant brazing. I have never attempted brazing myself, I would like to be able to do a little welding, enough to tack angle iron and tubing but so far haven't had any opportunity to learn. Good luck and keep us informed. Hope this helps. Brazing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Your continued donations keep Wikipedia running! Brazing From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search This article is about the metal joining process. For the cooking technique, see braising. Brazing is a joining process whereby a non- ferrous filler metal or alloy is heated to melting temperature above 450 °C (842°F), or, by the traditional definition that has been used in the United States, above 800°F (425) °C and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by capillary action. At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and flux interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form an exceptionally strong, sealed joint due to grain structure interaction. With certain metals, such as Nitinol (Nickel Titanium) and Niobium, a low temperature eutectic can form. This leads to the bonding of the two metals at a point that can be substantially lower than their respective melting temperatures. The brazed joint becomes a sandwich of different layers, each metallurgically linked to the adjacent layers. Common brazements are about 1/3 as strong as the materials they join because the metals partially dissolve each other at the interface and usually the grain structure and joint alloy is uncontrolled. To create high-strength brazes, sometimes a brazement can be annealed, or cooled at a controlled rate, so that the joint's grain structure and alloying is controlled. It is also at 1/3 strength because the metal used to braze is usually weaker than the substrate metal because it melts at a lower temperature, ensuring the substrate does not melt. Contents [ hide] List of 8 items (contains 2 nested lists) . 1 Common Techniques List of 4 items nesting level 1 . 1.1 Silver brazing . 1.2 Braze welding . 1.3 Cast iron welding . 1.4 Vacuum brazing list end nesting level 1 . 2 Brazing Fundamentals List of 3 items nesting level 1 . 2.1 Flux . 2.2 Brazing strength/Joint geometry . 2.3 Filler materials list end nesting level 1 . 3 Advantages of brazing . 4 Possible problems . 5 Brazing processes . 6 Further reading . 7 See also . 8 External links list end [ edit] Common Techniques [ edit] Silver brazing If silver alloy is used, brazing can be referred to as 'silver brazing'. Colloquially, the inaccurate terms silver soldering or hard soldering are used, to distinguish from the process of low temperature soldering that is done with solder having a melting point below 450 °C (842 °F), or, as traditionally defined in the United States, having a melting point below 800°F or 425 °C. Silver brazing is similar to soldering but higher temperatures are used and the filler metal has a significantly different composition and higher melting point than solder. Likewise, silver brazing often requires the prior machining of parts to be joined to very close tolerances prior to joining them, to establish a joint gap distance of a few micrometres or mils for proper capillary action during joining of parts, whereas soldering does not require gap distances that are nearly this small for successful joining of parts. Silver brazing works especially well for joining tubular thick-walled metal pipes, provided the proper fit-up is done prior to joining the parts. [ edit] Braze welding In another similar usage, brazing is the use of a bronze or brass filler rod coated with flux together with an oxyacetylene torch, to join pieces of steel. The American Welding Society prefers to use the term Braze Welding for this process, as capillary attraction is not involved, unlike the prior silver brazing example. Braze welding takes place at the melting temperature of the filler (e.g., 870 °C to 980 °C or 1600 °F to 1800 °F for bronze alloys) which is often considerably lower than the melting point of the base material (e.g., 1600 °C (2900 °F) for mild steel). In Braze Welding or Fillet Brazing, a bead of filler material reinforces the joint. A braze-welded tee joint is shown here. In Braze Welding or Fillet Brazing, a bead of filler material reinforces the joint. A braze-welded tee joint is shown here. [ edit] Cast iron welding The welding of cast iron is usually a brazing operation, with a filler rod made chiefly of nickel being used although true welding with cast iron rods is also available. [ edit] Vacuum brazing Vacuum brazing is another materials joining technique, one that offers extremely clean, superior, flux-free braze joints while providing high integrity and strength. The process can be expensive because it is performed inside a vacuum chamber
Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing
Hi, Well from what I was told from a guy down the road is that the MAP gas burns a lot hotter then the regular propane gas... That's why I was told that I could use my torch... THANKS ROB from Minnesota - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing Hello Rob, I lifted the below from Wikipedia. My guess is that you won't get anything like enough heat out of a soldering torch to do any significant brazing. I have never attempted brazing myself, I would like to be able to do a little welding, enough to tack angle iron and tubing but so far haven't had any opportunity to learn. Good luck and keep us informed. Hope this helps. Brazing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Your continued donations keep Wikipedia running! Brazing From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search This article is about the metal joining process. For the cooking technique, see braising. Brazing is a joining process whereby a non- ferrous filler metal or alloy is heated to melting temperature above 450 °C (842°F), or, by the traditional definition that has been used in the United States, above 800°F (425) °C and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by capillary action. At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and flux interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form an exceptionally strong, sealed joint due to grain structure interaction. With certain metals, such as Nitinol (Nickel Titanium) and Niobium, a low temperature eutectic can form. This leads to the bonding of the two metals at a point that can be substantially lower than their respective melting temperatures. The brazed joint becomes a sandwich of different layers, each metallurgically linked to the adjacent layers. Common brazements are about 1/3 as strong as the materials they join because the metals partially dissolve each other at the interface and usually the grain structure and joint alloy is uncontrolled. To create high-strength brazes, sometimes a brazement can be annealed, or cooled at a controlled rate, so that the joint's grain structure and alloying is controlled. It is also at 1/3 strength because the metal used to braze is usually weaker than the substrate metal because it melts at a lower temperature, ensuring the substrate does not melt. Contents [ hide] List of 8 items (contains 2 nested lists) . 1 Common Techniques List of 4 items nesting level 1 . 1.1 Silver brazing . 1.2 Braze welding . 1.3 Cast iron welding . 1.4 Vacuum brazing list end nesting level 1 . 2 Brazing Fundamentals List of 3 items nesting level 1 . 2.1 Flux . 2.2 Brazing strength/Joint geometry . 2.3 Filler materials list end nesting level 1 . 3 Advantages of brazing . 4 Possible problems . 5 Brazing processes . 6 Further reading . 7 See also . 8 External links list end [ edit] Common Techniques [ edit] Silver brazing If silver alloy is used, brazing can be referred to as 'silver brazing'. Colloquially, the inaccurate terms silver soldering or hard soldering are used, to distinguish from the process of low temperature soldering that is done with solder having a melting point below 450 °C (842 °F), or, as traditionally defined in the United States, having a melting point below 800°F or 425 °C. Silver brazing is similar to soldering but higher temperatures are used and the filler metal has a significantly different composition and higher melting point than solder. Likewise, silver brazing often requires the prior machining of parts to be joined to very close tolerances prior to joining them, to establish a joint gap distance of a few micrometres or mils for proper capillary action during joining of parts, whereas soldering does not require gap distances that are nearly this small for successful joining of parts. Silver brazing works especially well for joining tubular thick-walled metal pipes, provided the proper fit-up is done prior to joining the parts. [ edit] Braze welding In another similar usage, brazing is the use of a bronze or brass filler rod coated with flux together with an oxyacetylene torch, to join pieces of steel. The American Welding Society prefers to use the term Braze Welding for this process, as capillary attraction is not involved, unlike the prior silver brazing example. Braze welding takes place at the melting temperature of the filler (e.g., 870 °C to 980 °C or 1600 °F to 1800 °F for bronze alloys) which is often considerably lower than the melting point of the base material (e.g., 1600 °C (2900 °F) for mild steel). In Braze Welding or Fillet Brazing, a bead of filler material reinforces the joint. A braze-welded tee joint is shown here. In Braze
Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing
Hi Rob, It may be but you are going to have to get the steel you are joining up to over 800F all along the seam in order to get the brazing to flow and to get sucked into the joint. That is a load of heat. Still, it may be possible. Thin sheet metal is a likely candidate I would think, what is it you intend to braze? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 5:34 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing Hi, Well from what I was told from a guy down the road is that the MAP gas burns a lot hotter then the regular propane gas... That's why I was told that I could use my torch... THANKS ROB from Minnesota - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing Hello Rob, I lifted the below from Wikipedia. My guess is that you won't get anything like enough heat out of a soldering torch to do any significant brazing. I have never attempted brazing myself, I would like to be able to do a little welding, enough to tack angle iron and tubing but so far haven't had any opportunity to learn. Good luck and keep us informed. Hope this helps. Brazing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Your continued donations keep Wikipedia running! Brazing From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search This article is about the metal joining process. For the cooking technique, see braising. Brazing is a joining process whereby a non- ferrous filler metal or alloy is heated to melting temperature above 450 °C (842°F), or, by the traditional definition that has been used in the United States, above 800°F (425) °C and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by capillary action. At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and flux interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form an exceptionally strong, sealed joint due to grain structure interaction. With certain metals, such as Nitinol (Nickel Titanium) and Niobium, a low temperature eutectic can form. This leads to the bonding of the two metals at a point that can be substantially lower than their respective melting temperatures. The brazed joint becomes a sandwich of different layers, each metallurgically linked to the adjacent layers. Common brazements are about 1/3 as strong as the materials they join because the metals partially dissolve each other at the interface and usually the grain structure and joint alloy is uncontrolled. To create high-strength brazes, sometimes a brazement can be annealed, or cooled at a controlled rate, so that the joint's grain structure and alloying is controlled. It is also at 1/3 strength because the metal used to braze is usually weaker than the substrate metal because it melts at a lower temperature, ensuring the substrate does not melt. Contents [ hide] List of 8 items (contains 2 nested lists) . 1 Common Techniques List of 4 items nesting level 1 . 1.1 Silver brazing . 1.2 Braze welding . 1.3 Cast iron welding . 1.4 Vacuum brazing list end nesting level 1 . 2 Brazing Fundamentals List of 3 items nesting level 1 . 2.1 Flux . 2.2 Brazing strength/Joint geometry . 2.3 Filler materials list end nesting level 1 . 3 Advantages of brazing . 4 Possible problems . 5 Brazing processes . 6 Further reading . 7 See also . 8 External links list end [ edit] Common Techniques [ edit] Silver brazing If silver alloy is used, brazing can be referred to as 'silver brazing'. Colloquially, the inaccurate terms silver soldering or hard soldering are used, to distinguish from the process of low temperature soldering that is done with solder having a melting point below 450 °C (842 °F), or, as traditionally defined in the United States, having a melting point below 800°F or 425 °C. Silver brazing is similar to soldering but higher temperatures are used and the filler metal has a significantly different composition and higher melting point than solder. Likewise, silver brazing often requires the prior machining of parts to be joined to very close tolerances prior to joining them, to establish a joint gap distance of a few micrometres or mils for proper capillary action during joining of parts, whereas soldering does not require gap distances that are nearly this small for successful joining of parts. Silver brazing works especially well for joining tubular thick-walled metal pipes, provided the proper fit-up is done prior to joining the parts. [ edit] Braze welding In another similar usage, brazing is the use of a bronze or brass filler rod coated with
Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing
Hi, What I'm going to be brazing is some plumbing parts to a old oil drum. Hoping that this MAP gas is going to be hot enough. ROB from Minnesota- Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 4:56 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing Hi Rob, It may be but you are going to have to get the steel you are joining up to over 800F all along the seam in order to get the brazing to flow and to get sucked into the joint. That is a load of heat. Still, it may be possible. Thin sheet metal is a likely candidate I would think, what is it you intend to braze? Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 5:34 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing Hi, Well from what I was told from a guy down the road is that the MAP gas burns a lot hotter then the regular propane gas... That's why I was told that I could use my torch... THANKS ROB from Minnesota - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] brazing Hello Rob, I lifted the below from Wikipedia. My guess is that you won't get anything like enough heat out of a soldering torch to do any significant brazing. I have never attempted brazing myself, I would like to be able to do a little welding, enough to tack angle iron and tubing but so far haven't had any opportunity to learn. Good luck and keep us informed. Hope this helps. Brazing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Your continued donations keep Wikipedia running! Brazing From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search This article is about the metal joining process. For the cooking technique, see braising. Brazing is a joining process whereby a non- ferrous filler metal or alloy is heated to melting temperature above 450 °C (842°F), or, by the traditional definition that has been used in the United States, above 800°F (425) °C and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by capillary action. At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and flux interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form an exceptionally strong, sealed joint due to grain structure interaction. With certain metals, such as Nitinol (Nickel Titanium) and Niobium, a low temperature eutectic can form. This leads to the bonding of the two metals at a point that can be substantially lower than their respective melting temperatures. The brazed joint becomes a sandwich of different layers, each metallurgically linked to the adjacent layers. Common brazements are about 1/3 as strong as the materials they join because the metals partially dissolve each other at the interface and usually the grain structure and joint alloy is uncontrolled. To create high-strength brazes, sometimes a brazement can be annealed, or cooled at a controlled rate, so that the joint's grain structure and alloying is controlled. It is also at 1/3 strength because the metal used to braze is usually weaker than the substrate metal because it melts at a lower temperature, ensuring the substrate does not melt. Contents [ hide] List of 8 items (contains 2 nested lists) . 1 Common Techniques List of 4 items nesting level 1 . 1.1 Silver brazing . 1.2 Braze welding . 1.3 Cast iron welding . 1.4 Vacuum brazing list end nesting level 1 . 2 Brazing Fundamentals List of 3 items nesting level 1 . 2.1 Flux . 2.2 Brazing strength/Joint geometry . 2.3 Filler materials list end nesting level 1 . 3 Advantages of brazing . 4 Possible problems . 5 Brazing processes . 6 Further reading . 7 See also . 8 External links list end [ edit] Common Techniques [ edit] Silver brazing If silver alloy is used, brazing can be referred to as 'silver brazing'. Colloquially, the inaccurate terms silver soldering or hard soldering are used, to distinguish from the process of low temperature soldering that is done with solder having a melting point below 450 °C (842 °F), or, as traditionally defined in the United States, having a melting point below 800°F or 425 °C. Silver brazing is similar to soldering but higher temperatures are used and the filler metal has a significantly different composition and higher melting point than solder. Likewise, silver brazing often requires the prior machining of parts to be joined to very close tolerances prior to joining them, to establish a joint gap distance of a few micrometres or mils for proper capillary action during joining of parts, whereas soldering does not require gap distances that
[BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes
Ok, I have found a house that might work. it is not the best location, nor the best house, but it is a good compromise between the two. We are still looking around though. The think I noticed is that the yard, especially in the back, is swarming with mosquitoes and other bugs. There is a wooded area on the other side of the back fence and I think the source may lye back there. Will there be anything I will be able to do about the mosquitoes if I buy the house? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes
You could put a bat roost up in a tree on the fringes of the property, or where the concentration of bugs is the most noticeable. Bats love mosquitoes and other flying insects. If there is shallow/standing water due to poor drainage, that can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes, so you might want to look into whether or not you have a low-lieing patch of ground where water is building up, or if there is such a spot nearby which is contributing to your skeeter problem. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:16 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes Ok, I have found a house that might work. it is not the best location, nor the best house, but it is a good compromise between the two. We are still looking around though. The think I noticed is that the yard, especially in the back, is swarming with mosquitoes and other bugs. There is a wooded area on the other side of the back fence and I think the source may lye back there. Will there be anything I will be able to do about the mosquitoes if I buy the house? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes
Not if it isn't on your property - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:16 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes Ok, I have found a house that might work. it is not the best location, nor the best house, but it is a good compromise between the two. We are still looking around though. The think I noticed is that the yard, especially in the back, is swarming with mosquitoes and other bugs. There is a wooded area on the other side of the back fence and I think the source may lye back there. Will there be anything I will be able to do about the mosquitoes if I buy the house? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Turning Old Oil Drums into Useful Items
Hi All With the help of these supplies-and a little ingenuity-you can turn old fuel containers into a multitude of useful objects. The following are just a few of the possibilities. DRUM SMOKER Some of the best smoked fish I've ever eaten came from a smoker I fabricated from a 55-gallon drum. My improvised smokehouse isn't so large that it takes a lot of work to make or operate, but is big enough to produce a good supply of cured meat. If you'd like to make one of these home smokers, begin by cutting the top out of a drum with a cold chisel and hammer. This job won't wear you out so quickly if you first pierce the inside rim of the barrel by cutting straight down. Then hold the tool at a 45-degree angle and work around the lid from the first cut. Clean the inside of the container after the end has been removed. Next make the smoker's base: a sheet of plywood that's an inch and a quarter thick, about three feet square and has a six-inch hole in the center. This board can stand on legs like a table, or it can be partly sunk into a hillside (my own preference . . . good old Mother Earth seems to add a little extra flavor to the fish). If you, too, favor my method, dig a level notch in the hill as wide as the plywood square and far enough into the slope that the hole in the base's center rests on earth. About four feet downhill cut a similar niche in which a Blazo can will fit horizontally and end first. Then scoop out a four-inch-square groove in the ground from the rear of the lower ledge up to the opening in the smoker's foundation. You can line the bottom of this trough with one continuous length of eighteen-inch-wide aluminum foil and roof the tunnel in the same way. Mud can be used to hold down the deges of the foil and seal in the smoke. Now for the firebox. Cut the top out of a Blazo tin and hinge it back in place to serve as a door. In the bottom of the can open a five-inch square on three of its sides. Bend the flap back and set the box-on its side-in the earth, so that smoke will flow into the groove when you fire her up. Your final construction job is a fish rack that stands inside the inverted drum. Make the framework from whatever comes handy and fit it out with three or four wire shelves small enough to fit inside the barrel (I used about 25 feet of one- by two-inch wood). To operate your finished smoker, load the shelves in the upper chamber and make a smoky fire in the Blazo can. Avoid very resinous woods that produce an unpleasant flavor. If you feed the blaze with chips, dampen them slightly to make more fumes. You'll need to experiment with curing times and temperatures until you get the results you like . . . check the meat every day or so and sneak a bite to see how the taste is coming. Or, if you really want to become an expert, pick up a book on smoking. YUKON STOVE If you have access to a welding set and a little scrap iron, you can turn an oil drum into a great cooking stove and heating device for a small cabin or house. First cut a 10-inch square out of one end of the barrel and use hinges or wire to fasten the metal back in place as a door. While you're at it, drill two holes in the flap and loop wire through them to make a handle. Now-if the stove is to be used for cooking-you must cut a section right out of the cylinder and replace the curved surface with a flat panel that will become the cooking top. Lay the drum on its side, hold a carpenter's level along the barrel and draw a straight reference line from the door end down twothirds of the container's length . . . or use the edge of a low table or similar object as a ruler. With the help of a piece of string, measure 18 inches around the drum at the far end of the reference line, mark the surface along that curve and draw a second lengthwise line parallel to the first and a foot and a half away from it. The fourth side of your rectangle runs-not around the door end of the barrel-but straight across the upper part of the circle. Then, with a cutting torch, carefully remove the shape you've outlined. Your stove will cook better and stay hot longer if you replace that cut-out section with a flat piece of one-quarter-inch iron plating that measures 16 by 22 inches. Weld this lid to the barrel and close the arched space at the back of the cooking area with an iron butt plate. If you can't get an iron cover, carefully cut the end semi-circle off the piece you removed from the drum and weld that segment in place as a butt plate. Then flatten the curved section of barrel wall, weld it over the open space and trim off the excess steel. You'll need an outlet for smoke, of course. Cut a five-inch hole in the rear third of the stove's top and weld a six-inch stovepipe over the opening. Continue the chimney up through the roof or out the wall. A metal frame can then be made to support the heating unit, or the barrel can be set in a sandbox. (Lay a sheet of asbestos between the sand and the floor . . . and use the same
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes
What part of the country are you in? I know from a few trips to Minnesota, the Mosquitoes are like the state bird, big enough anyway, sorry Robert. I would wonder what might be in the wooded area, anything like a sink hole or wetland type environment where standing water could pool, can you find out. I would also wonder about ticks and poison ivy. Bats like mosquitoes and seems like sparrows like dining on them too, or is that purple martins. I would definitely suggest checking out the wooded area. - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 5:16 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes Ok, I have found a house that might work. it is not the best location, nor the best house, but it is a good compromise between the two. We are still looking around though. The think I noticed is that the yard, especially in the back, is swarming with mosquitoes and other bugs. There is a wooded area on the other side of the back fence and I think the source may lye back there. Will there be anything I will be able to do about the mosquitoes if I buy the house? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes
Yes, bats and purple martins. Special apartment like bird houses are apparently their preference. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 8:54 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes You could put a bat roost up in a tree on the fringes of the property, or where the concentration of bugs is the most noticeable. Bats love mosquitoes and other flying insects. If there is shallow/standing water due to poor drainage, that can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes, so you might want to look into whether or not you have a low-lieing patch of ground where water is building up, or if there is such a spot nearby which is contributing to your skeeter problem. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:16 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes Ok, I have found a house that might work. it is not the best location, nor the best house, but it is a good compromise between the two. We are still looking around though. The think I noticed is that the yard, especially in the back, is swarming with mosquitoes and other bugs. There is a wooded area on the other side of the back fence and I think the source may lye back there. Will there be anything I will be able to do about the mosquitoes if I buy the house? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes
HI, This is Rob from Minnesota yes we have some of the biggest mosquitoes in the world. What I do is avoid being outside at don and dusk that seems to be time that they are the worst. Also I build a big screen porch on my house and that's the best way of being outside and not being bothered by them... ROB from Minnesota - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 10:33 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes Yes, bats and purple martins. Special apartment like bird houses are apparently their preference. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. - Original Message - From: Chanting Monks To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 8:54 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes You could put a bat roost up in a tree on the fringes of the property, or where the concentration of bugs is the most noticeable. Bats love mosquitoes and other flying insects. If there is shallow/standing water due to poor drainage, that can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes, so you might want to look into whether or not you have a low-lieing patch of ground where water is building up, or if there is such a spot nearby which is contributing to your skeeter problem. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com - Original Message - From: Jennifer Jackson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:16 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes Ok, I have found a house that might work. it is not the best location, nor the best house, but it is a good compromise between the two. We are still looking around though. The think I noticed is that the yard, especially in the back, is swarming with mosquitoes and other bugs. There is a wooded area on the other side of the back fence and I think the source may lye back there. Will there be anything I will be able to do about the mosquitoes if I buy the house? Jennifer [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes
Before we purchased our present home we lived in an area where we hardly had any mosquitoes. When I would take my guide dog out to relieve at night, I used to hear what sounded like hundreds of wings flying from a certain tree. I think they were bats. They don't like light, and I think we scared them when we came out. But I used to be able to sit out in my backyard as late as I wanted to and never got a mosquito bite. When we moved to our new location I bought two bat houses a couple of years ago, one for the front yard and one for the back. I have no idea if any bats are using them, but I really wanted to do whatever I could to keep those mosquitoes down. I am a little more leary of them now than before because my immune system is suppressed. I had a kidney transplant two years ago. As a matter of fact, it was probably the night of July fourth that my donor was killed. These holidays are fun, but can be very dangerous for others, and I am saddened by the family's loss. But, I have a living organ which has made my life more normal again. And I am very thankful that his daughter gave permission for it to be donated. I did get a little sidetracked from mosquitoes, but they do carry things, especially later in the summer, and I think everyone should be careful of them. I don't like to use repellent. Linda [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes
I would like to know more about those propane devices. I'm thinking that they would be better than bug zappers. I've heard that those zappers can actually be harmful to people. Linda [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
