Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Is this Snake Wood? John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:42 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw When I was clearing fallen trees after hurricane Hugo, a copperhead had climbed up on one of the big logs. Being scared of snakes, I didn't want him running off and showing up later. My son had told me where he was and I held the saw near him. When I revved up the engine, and the chain started flying around the bar, he struck at the chain. The last mistake he'd ever make, as it were. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
No just very dead. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 12:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Is this Snake Wood? John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 4:42 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw When I was clearing fallen trees after hurricane Hugo, a copperhead had climbed up on one of the big logs. Being scared of snakes, I didn't want him running off and showing up later. My son had told me where he was and I held the saw near him. When I revved up the engine, and the chain started flying around the bar, he struck at the chain. The last mistake he'd ever make, as it were. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
When I was clearing fallen trees after hurricane Hugo, a copperhead had climbed up on one of the big logs. Being scared of snakes, I didn't want him running off and showing up later. My son had told me where he was and I held the saw near him. When I revved up the engine, and the chain started flying around the bar, he struck at the chain. The last mistake he'd ever make, as it were. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Copperheads are a pretty aggressive breed. Cutting into what he considers his house can make them act crazy. And the trouble with all snakes is you can't predict how any 2 snakes will react to the same problem. One thing is for sure though, a copperhead will attack if provoked. They are much like a rattle snake in that regard. I love living in the South, but snakes are one of the prices you have to pay to live here. John and I live aboutr 80 to 100 miles apart. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 11:03 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hi John, That is interesting. I always thought that things like snakes would take off when people get near. I suppose though it might have thought itself secure hidden in a tree hollow. I wonder if it would be more likely to strike or flee once exposed? We don't have much experience with snakes up here and what we do have are totally innocuous. Bees or hornets or wasps behave much as yours do. Fortunately we don't have things like fire ants either. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
We are about 50 to 100 miles fro the fire ant line. Got my legs covered with them once, and that is all it takes. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 11:03 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hi John, That is interesting. I always thought that things like snakes would take off when people get near. I suppose though it might have thought itself secure hidden in a tree hollow. I wonder if it would be more likely to strike or flee once exposed? We don't have much experience with snakes up here and what we do have are totally innocuous. Bees or hornets or wasps behave much as yours do. Fortunately we don't have things like fire ants either. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
I agree with John, Every cut is different. You need to think ahead and plan every cut. One tip that I would add would be, to always keep the chain tension properly adjusted on the bar. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:58 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
After I sent the email, I thought that I should have mentioned that the chain needs to be kept snug. If you have a new saw or new blade, expect to make blade adjustments quite often. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 9:49 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw I agree with John, Every cut is different. You need to think ahead and plan every cut. One tip that I would add would be, to always keep the chain tension properly adjusted on the bar. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:58 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Hi John, That is interesting. I always thought that things like snakes would take off when people get near. I suppose though it might have thought itself secure hidden in a tree hollow. I wonder if it would be more likely to strike or flee once exposed? We don't have much experience with snakes up here and what we do have are totally innocuous. Bees or hornets or wasps behave much as yours do. Fortunately we don't have things like fire ants either. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw A friend of mine cut a tree and found a copper head in the hollow. He new that the tree was hollow, but he was not aware of the free gift. He trew the body of the chain saw on the snake and then got his shot gun. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Paul Franklin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for fire wood. Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot persute. Paul Franklin - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturdayhttp://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
My saw moves very little or not alt all. It depends on how tight the chain is. Chain saws use a centrifusal cluch to engage the chain. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman-ow
RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non
RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Thanks everyone for all the tips. I don't know if or when I'll have the chance to use a saw, but this old electric bugger I got for a dollar is probably not worth using. It has no chain break and well hey, I got it thinking I might want to use it for a job, but I'm not sure it really works all that well. Might be worth trying on a small task, but then again, I'm still trying to determine the amount of work to ensure it operates correctly. However, the tips are certainly valuable either way. On Apr 6, 2010, at 9:43 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote: It depends on what you are cutting as to which direction to hold it. But keeping the tip away from things is very important. I've had many cases of kick back while sawing and it's nothing like we talk about with a table saw. When a chain saw kicks back it isn't throwing wood at you, it's throwing itself. The best way to avoid kick back is to keep a good grip on the handle. It will help control any movement by the saw. The chain brake is a good thing to have in place but it won't necessarily engage every time the saw kicks back. Letting go of the trigger and keeping control of the front handle is the only way to stop the saw from getting to you. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
If the saw is correctly set up the chain should not be moving at all when the motor is idling. Don't count on it though. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
The chain shouldn't be moving at all when the motor is idling. If you want to be doubly certain that it isn't, pull the brake on. Jewel- Original Message - From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:28 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
The only time I got hurt, someone else was running the saw. And he could see. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jim King To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut than from the saw itself. Jim King From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of john schwery Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
The idle on the engine should be set to a quarter to a half turn slower once the chain stops moving. If you have to touch the chain to see if it's moving, use a small piece of wood. If it's moving fast enough to hurt you, you will be able to hear it. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 6:30 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If the saw is correctly set up the chain should not be moving at all when the motor is idling. Don't count on it though. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling? earlier, John Sherrer, wrote: Some tips I have are: 1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back. 2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up. 3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You do not want them to get into your way. 4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off. 5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting hurt, take corrective action and continue. Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Scott Howell mailto:s.howell%40verizon.nets.how...@verizon.net To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.orghttp://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcomhttp://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.wshttp://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any
RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
If you have a Saws All or any other brand of reciprocating saw, you can buy a tree cutting blade, that is about 6 or 7 inches long. I use it to prune all my big branches every year. Works great. From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 3:04 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw 3 inches in diameter won't be much of a problem for any chain saw. But since you asked, I'm a fan of Stihl. - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 1:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
If you're not using it how much you want for it. Write me offline for this. - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 6:57 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
It depends on what you are cutting as to which direction to hold it. But keeping the tip away from things is very important. I've had many cases of kick back while sawing and it's nothing like we talk about with a table saw. When a chain saw kicks back it isn't throwing wood at you, it's throwing itself. The best way to avoid kick back is to keep a good grip on the handle. It will help control any movement by the saw. The chain brake is a good thing to have in place but it won't necessarily engage every time the saw kicks back. Letting go of the trigger and keeping control of the front handle is the only way to stop the saw from getting to you. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
and when there is a kickback, it is unlikely that you will be quick enough to release the throttle before serious damage is done. However, having said that: one has to be pretty careless to get hurt by a chainsaw. Follow common sense safety practices , and have lots of fun! If I can, and do: anyone can! Jewel - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:43 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw It depends on what you are cutting as to which direction to hold it. But keeping the tip away from things is very important. I've had many cases of kick back while sawing and it's nothing like we talk about with a table saw. When a chain saw kicks back it isn't throwing wood at you, it's throwing itself. The best way to avoid kick back is to keep a good grip on the handle. It will help control any movement by the saw. The chain brake is a good thing to have in place but it won't necessarily engage every time the saw kicks back. Letting go of the trigger and keeping control of the front handle is the only way to stop the saw from getting to you. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell s.how...@verizon.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held perpendicular to the work? I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than a handsaw. grin On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote: I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for your job unless you have future use. If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good. If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off your hands. By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But if I had a good enough reason, I would use it. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Unless you have a lot of them I recommend a Swedish style bow saw for about 15 bucks. It will eat through a 3 inch trunk in about a dozen or so strokes and doesn't need gas, oil, chain oil, is quiet, quick, reliable, starts first pull every time and hangs on a nail when you are done. Otherwise Huskvarna is probably the best brand if not the most expensive. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 1:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
For this small of tree you may just want to use a hand operated saw. With a good single-operator camp model saw, it would just take a couple of minutes to drop the tree. If you're really interested in a chain saw, there are other considerations. I use an electric Polland chain saw. It works excellent, but you have to remember that you're going to have to have power available for it. I'm considering getting a gas model at some future point, as there are times that it would be more convenient not having to string out a power cord. Hope this helps. - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 1:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
3 inches in diameter won't be much of a problem for any chain saw. But since you asked, I'm a fan of Stihl. - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 1:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Dear Scott: I have found that Husqvarna and Stihl are the most reliable and my new Stihl has become my favorite, as it has a starting system that allows old codgers, like yours truly, to start the saw without having to strain the old muscles. Husqvarna also has a model which provides a method for easy start. I also agree with my Canadian friend, as I like to use my bow saw for small jobs. The only problem with my bow saw is that I seem to get cut more often when using it than when I use one of my power saws. I suppose that has to do with my trying to be super careful with a power saw. I would suggest that you saw the tree at first about two feet from the ground, so that you can guide the fall while standing, as it is easier to make an exit while standing. I assume that you will then wish to cut the stump as close to level with the ground as possible, which can be easily accomplished from a seated position. Yours Truly, Clifford Wilson - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 1:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4999 (20100404) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4999 (20100404) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to handle. RJ - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
Reciprocating saws can use a wood cutting blade of about seven inches. If you have one of them it would work. Ron - Original Message - From: Scott Berry To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 12:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw Hello there, I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do you recommend. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
