RE: Steam pressure rises without stopping
(when the pstat reached the set pressure) From: mdp...@hotmail.com To: brewtus@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: Steam pressure rises without stopping Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 15:50:48 -0500 The safety relief valve hisses at 1.8 or so. It is new. There are no leaks at the threads.Testing with a meter revealed that there was still current to the element (steam) when the indicator light turned of (when the peat reached the set pressure). Removal of the red wire on the element and the element still receives current. PID appears to be wired per WLL instructions. So the element is getting current and therefore heat after the pstat reaches a level where the element should turn off when the indicator light turns off. Pstat is wired the same way the old pstat was wired. From: papamu...@iinet.net.au Subject: Re: Steam pressure rises without stopping Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 10:44:54 +0800 To: brewtus@googlegroups.com I don't know your level of experience so please take these questions with a grain of salt... It's not the vacuum breaker hissing is it? What is the relief pressure rating on the safety valve? I'd expect it be at least 1.8 bar and higher so should not hiss until then. Also is it hissing due to valve opening or bad seal on valve threads? I guess you have the p-stat wired correctly? There are often three connections on the switch common, normally open and normally closed. You need common and normally closed. Graeme On 16/02/2013, at 9:46 AM, AngerManagement comp@gmail.com wrote:Can only assume the PID is involved... On Friday, February 15, 2013 1:33:21 PM UTC+10, Michael Payne wrote:Looking for some help if possible. Installed the PID in the Fall. Heating element went. Sent back to WLL and they fixed that, among other things. I had the machine working for around a week and the safety valve blew. Long story short, I purchased a new pstat and safety valve. Installed them tonight and no matter where I set the pstat, the pressure in the steam boiler continues to rise until the safety valve starts to hiss. It will go we'll above 1.5. 1.7, 1.8. Any ideas what old be causing it? After initial install I removed the tube leading o the pstat to check for debris. I found none, and none in the pstat. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Steam pressure rises without stopping
Looking for some help if possible. Installed the PID in the Fall. Heating element went. Sent back to WLL and they fixed that, among other things. I had the machine working for around a week and the safety valve blew. Long story short, I purchased a new pstat and safety valve. Installed them tonight and no matter where I set the pstat, the pressure in the steam boiler continues to rise until the safety valve starts to hiss. It will go we'll above 1.5. 1.7, 1.8. Any ideas what old be causing it? After initial install I removed the tube leading o the pstat to check for debris. I found none, and none in the pstat. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
RE: Pressure is now acting weird on my Brewtus III
I have had good luck disassembling the OPV and cleaning it to solve this issue. Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 11:42:30 -0700 Subject: Re: Pressure is now acting weird on my Brewtus III From: bigstormg...@gmail.com To: brewtus@googlegroups.com Just called WLL, they are sending everything next week. I'm going to try to do this myself. I hope it's not going to be too bad. Thanks Todd for you help. Cindy On Jun 8, 2:20 pm, Todd Salzman to...@wholelattelove.com wrote: Please call our tech department at 888.411.5282. Tell them about our e mails and they can assist you with the best way to get this taken care of. Thanks Todd [ Attached Message ]From:Cindy Goddard bigstormg...@gmail.comTo:Brewtus brewtus@googlegroups.comDate:Wed, 8 Jun 2011 11:10:20 -0700 (PDT)Local:Wed, Jun 8 2011 2:10 pmSubject:Re: Pressure is now acting weird on my Brewtus IIITodd, is this covered under the warranty? It's only 3 months old. On Jun 8, 1:54 pm, Todd Salzman to...@wholelattelove.com wrote: I would recommend replacing the pump, air remover and the OPV all at the same time. It will cost a little more to do all of them but then you can be sure that you will have solved the problem. Todd Well, I did the adjustment, but it still flucuates (pulsating up and down, gets quiet when it goes down). Even though I put it back to 10, when I try to do a another blind basket, it only will go to around 7, but moves way past 10 when I put the lever back down. What is the next step? I also notice when the water comes out of the opv, it seems weaker. Is this due to lack of pressure? Cindy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en.
RE: On/off switch redux
I too have experienced this. In fact, during a several other repairs I have in the past noticed the degradation of the various electrical connections. I did find the correctly rated switch at the hardware store 2 blocks from my house, but it was slightly larger than the hole in the machine. So I went 3/4 mile further to a small electronics supply store and found the a correctly rated switch that did fit, although they were out of the lighted model. The various degraded electrical connections I have replaced with some high-temp connectors and splices made for coffee machines that I did purchase at the hardware store, along with the correct heat resistant wiring, and followed the advice of others here on the shrink wrapping of these connectors, some with double or triple layers. And when my plastic tubing between boilers finally began leaking (as described by others in the group here) I replaced it with copper tubing from the hardware store that I flared to fit. It works fine. I would stay with the rating on the original switch, but it is possible to find what goes in the machine through common supply channels. Subject: Re: On/off switch redux From: bmacpi...@me.com Date: Fri, 15 Oct 2010 11:31:54 -0700 To: brewtus@googlegroups.com Thanks Barry. Todd had me look for that and I didn't see it--I wonder if they eliminated that somewhere along the way? bmc On Oct 15, 2010, at 11:22 AM, Barry Luterman wrote: On mine the cause of the switch failure was a short in the connector inferior to the switch. There is a plastic covered screw connector below the switch which connects the thicker gauge wire from the outlet to the thinner gauge wire that is connected to the switch. I spliced the two different gauged wires together using shrink insulation replaced the switch and never had any more trouble with it On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 8:28 AM, bmacpiper b...@kbmc.net wrote: Hello all, Well, it finally happened to me. Came home from the station yesterday, and found my B2 (about 3.5 years old) was cold, and that whole circuit in the house was dead. Found the tripped breaker on my panel, reset, and it immediately retripped. Tried it again just in case... :) Quickly isolated it to the B2, when I unplugged it the circuit reset just fine. I could smell electrical at the front/top/left of the B2, and sure enough, the top wires to the on/off switch are brownish and hard. Pulled the switch this morning, and it smells a bit like electrical, but still moves fine and is not melted. I have glanced through the old posts on the topic, but don't know whether we reached a consensus on the topic or not? Replace with a high-amp switch from the hardware store? Or did WLL get a good replacement that is rated for the load? If I use a generic switch, do I just need one that is 15A+, or do I need 20A? It's been a rough month on my espresso consumption...OPV, steam wand, switch...good thing I have some Irish breakfast around. Thanks as always, Ben Mc -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en.
RE: B2 pump cuts in and out
I had a similar issue last year. I started by cleaning inside the top of the E61 head (removing the large chrome nut, and cleaning the stuff inside, etc.). I then cleaned the OPV. I eventually replaced it (OPV) even though it was spotless. Neither of these helped. In my case, it came down to diassembly of the vibe pump and cleaning. I know this is not recommended, but it looked like a very simple mechanism to me. What I discovered was bits of thread sealant had come off and were plugging up the small openings at the outlet end (if my memory is correct). Since then, no problems. Along with the OPV I ordered a Vibe pump, which eventually came, but I have not replaced it yet. _ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups Brewtus group. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus?hl=en -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
