Re: [Cameramakers] 8x10 enlarger
At 05:27 PM 12/2/01 -0500, you wrote: Alan Zinn wrote: Phil, All those light bulbs seem scarry to me. Aren't you worried about heat build-up? You should have a heat absorbing glass. Why not go fluorescent? That way besides the benefit of cold light you can use much lighter glass and structure. I have an easy to build pano enlarger that you could adapt to 8 x 10 if you want to check it out go to my web page below and see enl1.gif. I can send the instructions if you are interested. AZ Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. www.geocities.com/soho/gallery/8874/ or keyword.com lookaround ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers The light bulbs are not a permanent thing, I am still in the prototype stage right now. I will be using the camera at first then building a standalone enlarger if it works out ok. A glass shop near me has a laminated glass that is white inside the layers of glass. In my test run of the light bulbs the other day heat should not be to bad if I vent the light box and have some heat absorbing glass before the diffusing panel. I like the idea someone mentioned of indirect light from the side of the light box and lining the light box itself with styrofoam. I will have to experiment untill I find the right combination that gives good results. A cold light head would be great, I just can't justify the cost of it. Once I put together something that works within reason I will post it on my website. Thanks for all the good ideas so far. Phil ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers Phill, I have built a number of enlargers and tried several light box strategies including multi-lamps and single quartz lamps. If you don't want to go the cold-light route the indirect quartz light is by far the best. I used an old hair dryer mounted on the wall and ducted to the lamp head. You will be saving yourself a lot of grief in the weight and mass department by going for a foam core and duct tape lamp house. You will want anti-newton ring glass for the neg carrier and 3/16 plex, milk white difuser material available here: http://www.fpointinc.com/index3.htm btw I have had cold light lamps built for me at neon shops. They make a 8 x 10 (or two 4 x 10) tight, zig zag patterned lamp from 8mm white glass. If you run across a broken neon beer sign grab it up for later use as the transformer for the cold-light. AZ Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. www.geocities.com/soho/gallery/8874/ or keyword.com lookaround ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Re: [Cameramakers] 8x10 enlarger
I have an easy to build pano enlarger that you could adapt to 8 x 10 if you want to check it out go to my web page below and see enl1.gif. I can send the instructions if you are interested. AZ Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. www.geocities.com/soho/gallery/8874/ or AZ, Regarding your pan enlarger, do you use a motor to move the film or lens? How are you controlling speed (i.e. exposure?) Neat idea. Marc ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Re: [Cameramakers] Re: Enlarger Diffusion.
On Sun, 2 Dec 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hmmm. I've been fighting this fight, too. One problem is that if your diff material isn't absolutely creamy smooth, you have to space it quite a ways behind the neg to ensure that any graininess is entirely out of foucus. I can't seem to find milk-white, smooth diff material available by itself. ...snip... One success i've had on a small scale is actually a piece of white shopping bag plastic. Based on your comments and success with whith shopping bag plastic, it might be worth checking out white Plexiglass. This is the same stuff used for making light boxes, and is readily available from plastic supply houses. Another possibility would be frosted drafting mylar. The frosted mylar is what Howard Bond has been using for his unsharp masking, and more recently for dodging and burning masks mounted just above the negative. In any case, heat is something to be concerned about. A piece of heat absorbing glass between the lamp and the diffuser may be in order? By the way, all, the 4x5 SLR is almost done. Does anybody have any suggestions for posting pictures? You can't post pictures to the mailing list. You CAN send them to me directly and I'll put them on the RMP cameramakers web site at http://rmp.opusis.com so that people can see them. - Wayde ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) -- ISART 2002 International Symposium on Advanced Radio Technology http://www.its.bldrdoc.gov/meetings/art/index.html -- ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
[Cameramakers] help on polo mod 100
Hello! Found you guys through google. I am getting ready to modify a flash to work with my model 100 polaroid. Anybody already done this? Please save me from myself. I apologize for not sifting through the archives, but 7 megs is a bit much. If you could reply to me at [EMAIL PROTECTED], I would be greatly appreciative! Regards! Shawn ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
[Cameramakers] Re: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #273 - 12 msgs
The neon shop sounds like a cool idea, yuk,yuk. Would the spectrum of the light from neon or for that matter, fluorescent lights interfere with multicontrast filtration? Ron From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 10:27:01 -0700 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #273 - 12 msgs Phill, I have built a number of enlargers and tried several light box strategies including multi-lamps and single quartz lamps. If you don't want to go the cold-light route the indirect quartz light is by far the best. I used an old hair dryer mounted on the wall and ducted to the lamp head. You will be saving yourself a lot of grief in the weight and mass department by going for a foam core and duct tape lamp house. You will want anti-newton ring glass for the neg carrier and 3/16 plex, milk white difuser material available here: http://www.fpointinc.com/index3.htm btw I have had cold light lamps built for me at neon shops. They make a 8 x 10 (or two 4 x 10) tight, zig zag patterned lamp from 8mm white glass. If you run across a broken neon beer sign grab it up for later use as the transformer for the cold-light. AZ ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Re: [Cameramakers] Re: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #273 - 12 msgs
Hi Ron Neon is what cold lights are made of. The nice thing is they can be formed in just about any shape and the colors are adjustable. Ron Baker www.ronbakerphotography.com - Original Message - From: Ron Levandoski [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 6:37 PM Subject: [Cameramakers] Re: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #273 - 12 msgs The neon shop sounds like a cool idea, yuk,yuk. Would the spectrum of the light from neon or for that matter, fluorescent lights interfere with multicontrast filtration? Ron From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 10:27:01 -0700 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #273 - 12 msgs Phill, I have built a number of enlargers and tried several light box strategies including multi-lamps and single quartz lamps. If you don't want to go the cold-light route the indirect quartz light is by far the best. I used an old hair dryer mounted on the wall and ducted to the lamp head. You will be saving yourself a lot of grief in the weight and mass department by going for a foam core and duct tape lamp house. You will want anti-newton ring glass for the neg carrier and 3/16 plex, milk white difuser material available here: http://www.fpointinc.com/index3.htm btw I have had cold light lamps built for me at neon shops. They make a 8 x 10 (or two 4 x 10) tight, zig zag patterned lamp from 8mm white glass. If you run across a broken neon beer sign grab it up for later use as the transformer for the cold-light. AZ ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
[Cameramakers] Kodak Tourist 120 Conversion HELP!!!!!!
I decided to flush the shutter on my Tourist and quickly realized I'm in over my head. The shutter came off very conveniently with a nice little bayonet connection. I tried some denatured alcohol from a syringe to flush it. Now the shutter works great. All the lens elements are completely wet as are the shutter blades. There is a nut on the back with one spanner slot and I cant seem to get it loose. It's not left handed. Nothing like learning the hard way. Any advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated. Matt Mengel --- Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ran the first roll of film through the converted Tourist yesterday. Some observations: 1. Feed end upper (adjustible) locating pin has a small rectangular crosspiece that lightly snags the film spool crossslot. A small thin washer epoxied over this piece will solve the problem. 2. Tripping the shutter without using the shutter linkage on the camera bed is a PITA. I'll work up a way to use the existing shutter trip with the new lens/shutter and post it. 3. In spite of reasonable care in masking the camera body whilst doing the Dremel surgery, some of the swarf ended up in the viewfinder. I finally figured out how to get into the viewfinder and cleaned it. If anyone else winds up with this problem, email me and I'll tell you how to do it without removing the top plate. 4. All in all, a satifying weekend project and a very usable camera. Regards, Marv ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers __ Do You Yahoo!? Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. http://shopping.yahoo.com ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Re: [Cameramakers] Re: Enlarger Diffusion.
At 03:01 PM 12/3/01 -0700, you wrote: On Sun, 2 Dec 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hmmm. I've been fighting this fight, too. One problem is that if your diff material isn't absolutely creamy smooth, you have to space it quite a ways behind the neg to ensure that any graininess is entirely out of foucus. I can't seem to find milk-white, smooth diff material available by itself. ...snip... One success i've had on a small scale is actually a piece of white shopping bag plastic. Based on your comments and success with whith shopping bag plastic, it might be worth checking out white Plexiglass. This is the same stuff used for making light boxes, and is readily available from plastic supply houses. Another possibility would be frosted drafting mylar. The frosted mylar is what Howard Bond has been using for his unsharp masking, and more recently for dodging and burning masks mounted just above the negative. In any case, heat is something to be concerned about. A piece of heat absorbing glass between the lamp and the diffuser may be in order? FYI, Howard B. uses a sheet of 3/16 in. milk white plex AND the mylar to do Alan Ross dodging masks. He is presently experimenting with different thickness of the plex. Go to any outdoor, illuminated sign company and beg for scraps if you don't have a plex supply house near you. AZ Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. www.geocities.com/soho/gallery/8874/ or keyword.com lookaround ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Re: [Cameramakers] Re: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #273 - 12 msgs
At 04:37 PM 12/3/01 -0800, you wrote: The neon shop sounds like a cool idea, yuk,yuk. Would the spectrum of the light from neon or for that matter, fluorescent lights interfere with multicontrast filtration? Ron Ron, The neon tube comes with different phosphors just like real Aristo Cool Lights. One can print with VC filters same as always. I had a pair of green and blue phosphor lamps built to do multi-contrast printing - it was a royal pain and not worth my trouble. Don't forget that you will need a shutter below the lamp. You can't turn fluorescent lamps off and on (without a pre-heated cathode which is too much fuss for most) to print because the light output keeps changing as the lamp heats up. And how do you do that you may ask. It's quite easy but requires a picture and a lot of hand waving. If you get that far I'll do my best to explain. AZ Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera. www.geocities.com/soho/gallery/8874/ or keyword.com lookaround ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Re: [Cameramakers] Kodak Tourist 120 Conversion HELP!!!!!!
Matt Mengel wrote: I decided to flush the shutter on my Tourist and quickly realized I'm in over my head. The shutter came off very conveniently with a nice little bayonet connection. I tried some denatured alcohol from a syringe to flush it. Now the shutter works great. All the lens elements are completely wet as are the shutter blades. There is a nut on the back with one spanner slot and I cant seem to get it loose. It's not left handed. Nothing like learning the hard way. Any advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated. Matt Mengel --- Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ran the first roll of film through the converted Tourist yesterday. Some observations: 1. Feed end upper (adjustible) locating pin has a small rectangular crosspiece that lightly snags the film spool crossslot. A small thin washer epoxied over this piece will solve the problem. 2. Tripping the shutter without using the shutter linkage on the camera bed is a PITA. I'll work up a way to use the existing shutter trip with the new lens/shutter and post it. 3. In spite of reasonable care in masking the camera body whilst doing the Dremel surgery, some of the swarf ended up in the viewfinder. I finally figured out how to get into the viewfinder and cleaned it. If anyone else winds up with this problem, email me and I'll tell you how to do it without removing the top plate. 4. All in all, a satifying weekend project and a very usable camera. Regards, Marv ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers __ Do You Yahoo!? Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. http://shopping.yahoo.com ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers Suggest you try the rubber bottle stopper trick. Find a rubber (or cork) bottle stopper approximately the same size as the nut, push down, turn anti-clockwise. Should come off. Regards, Marv ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
[Cameramakers] Re: Cameramakers digest, Vol 1 #274 - 1 msg
re: Enlarger diffusion Use translucent plexiglas that is used for light tables. It comes in many thicknesses from 1/16 on up to probably 1 They all transmit the same amount of light. Thicker will probably mix better. For my modified Bessler enlarger lamp I simply removed their awful condensors, the light socket. I built my own light set up with a 200 watt quartz bulb--which isn't going to discolor as it ages as will all those 60 watt bulbs. the inside of the condenser housing I simply spray painted with High heat white paint. If I were to modify the light (or get as motivated as you obviously are) and build an 8x10 enlarger, than I will use one or two of the $10 250 watt quartz work lights you can find at Home depot. What I learned from poking around in my Bessler color head is that all you need for even light is a piece of that plex on the bottom of as large a box as you can manage painted white on the inside. If the light bounces around enough and exits via the translucent plex it'll be even. For diffusion I use a circle of the translucent plex. Works fine. Has edge to edge evenness of 1/10 or 2/10s of a stop--(a lens will have fall off greater than that). I wouldn't consider using anything else. I would recomend against 60 watt bulbs. btw your multiple socket pattern sounds like the set-up Ansel Adams wrote about. He had each bulb individually switched thinking that it would help burn and dodge. As I remember he found it didn't work. This translucent plex can be bought from any place selling plexi or through a glass shop. Let them cut it--especially if it is a circle. btw I use the 1/16th inch in above my negs and below a contrast mask. They work great until they scratch. Good luck. ---William Nettles [EMAIL PROTECTED] Nettles Photo / Imaging Site http://www.wgn.net/~nettles ___ Cameramakers mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
