Re: [Cameramakers] fluorescent lamps for b/w LF cold head enlarger

2002-09-21 Thread Robert Mueller

I am not sure I understand the need for a full spectrum source for black 
and white though I agree one must consider the spectrum with more care for 
color work.

If you are not using multi-contrast paper I would think a bluer lamp would 
look good and a lot of inexpensive fluorescent lamps ought to fill the 
bill.  For multi-contrast papers you must be sure the required spectral 
components are there but my intuition suggests just a couple (or maybe a 
few!) selected lines would be sufficient)  (A few might come into play if 
the emulsions have more than two components to gain wide contrast 
range.)  More than likely is it that a couple well positioned lines could 
increase the available contrast range by avoiding overlap of the spectral 
responses of the low-contrast and the high contrast components.  You would 
have to judge this by looking at the lamp data and the emulsion data.

Any fluorescent lamp for which I have seen data tends to have some sharp 
line structure superimposed on a continuum.  The phosphors are blended to 
yield the required spectrum for the application, almost always to give the 
eye the correct impression  (Some blends seem to be aimed at machines which 
have special requirements and there are green lamps for copy machines, to 
give a single example.)  The narrow lines come from the mercury discharge 
which excited the phosphors and some of this light leaks out with the 
extent of the leakage depending greatly on the lamp type.  The total amount 
of light left in these lines is sometimes a lot and sometimes rather small 
(you should notice the width of spectral features and compare area under 
the curve in determining importance of the leakage.)

Try to obtain the catalog from Osram for a nice set of graphs of the spectra.

Some of you might also want to look at the POWER STAR HQI.  This gives a 
pretty smooth spectrum from a concentrated source (possibly suitable for a 
condenser enlarger, although the source could be too big in the higher 
power types)  There is a major problem; you cannot turn these lamps on and 
off very easily.  When hot they start with great difficulty and the 
lifetime drops dramatically with short cycles. A shutter would be 
required.  Conversely, maybe they are satisfactory for color work at high 
powers.  The lamps can deliver massive powers (maybe 3500 watts input) with 
efficiency better than a hot filament lamp so the same input power is 
delivering more light.

Bob

At 01:01 20.09.02 -0400, you wrote:
Hello:

I am curious if anyone has ever used 'tri-phosphor' lamps for enlarging.

I'm interested in an 8x10 enlarger for b/w only, on a budget.

I started looking into low pressure pulsed xenon - lotta heat, and nearly
obsolete, $100 for 750W lamp, $3000 for new commercial ballast/power supply,
and it's not a friendly prospect - 52 V at about 18 amps plus 1 volt
spike to ionize gas...so, I think I'll look into other approaches.

Ansel Adams used massive array of logo-less incandescent lamps - heat again.

I'm pondering either full spectrum fluorescent (linear tubes only as far as
I know), or tri-phosphor complact fluorescent (3 spectral peaks spread out
over visible spectrum depending on color temperature, 2700K, 3500 K, 4100K
and 6500K available (CRI 82, but that may not be relevant to film). I got
spectral plot of the 6500K one today because I was unfamiliar with that one,
and the spikey spectrum of the tri-phoshor type does make me nervous...hence
my request for others' fluorescent experience.

What I'm considering is using seveal GE Biax (folded tube) 18 or 27W lamps
for an 8 x 10 or 11x 14 head, each driven with a high frequency electronic
ballast. Driving the lamps above 15kHz eliminates the 120 Hz (100 for 50 Hz
countries) flicker and produces about 15% more lumens than line frequency. I
have access to a manufacturer of small electronic ballasts (I used to work
there). I am considering running them from a DC supply with individual
regulators so the light output could be adjusted for each lamp.

My main worry is the strong spectral peaks in this type of lamp. The intent
of this lamp design is that the brain is supposed to 'fill in the spectral
gap', and THINK they are full spectrum lamps.

Thanks in advance for responses.

Murray

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[Cameramakers] viruses

2002-09-21 Thread Uptown Gallery

I have checked my PC with a current virus checker and apparently all is
well. I still get responses back from mail servers blocking mail from my
reply-to: address allegedly containing viruses.

I think this is the other side of the coin with all the messages I get with
weird attachments from people who didn't send them. I think it's a variation
of an Address Book virus, and not necessarily the fault of the alleged
sender.

Murray

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[Cameramakers] Fluorescent replies - Bob M Panoramic AZ

2002-09-21 Thread Uptown Gallery

Thanks Bob - I think in my case a little knowledge is dangerous - I worry
more about what I do NOT know than what I do...with the hope that eventually
when I know it, I'll be the first to know.

And AZ (panoramic), I would like info (off list or on, whatever's
appropriate) on custom lamp...I had thought about a neon place locally that
makes weird custom neons.

Are you talking about something similar to the 'grid lamps' Arista/o makes?

Murray



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[Cameramakers] Huw of LED fame on this list?

2002-09-21 Thread Uptown Gallery

Is Huw of LED enlarger fame on this list?

Murray

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[Cameramakers] Re: Scanner now camera

2002-09-21 Thread Brian Swale

Hell Ken,

You wrote
 First, the sensor needs to be directly behind the lens , on the centerline. My
 scans were dark at each end with a circle in the center.  So you will see by
 looking at: 

http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/photoforum.html

But this does not show your picture.  Can you please provide the complete 
URL?

Brian Swale
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Re: [Cameramakers] Fluorescent replies - Bob M Panoramic AZ

2002-09-21 Thread Alan Zinn

At 03:19 PM 9/21/2002 -0400, you wrote:
Thanks Bob - I think in my case a little knowledge is dangerous - I worry
more about what I do NOT know than what I do...with the hope that eventually
when I know it, I'll be the first to know.

And AZ (panoramic), I would like info (off list or on, whatever's
appropriate) on custom lamp...I had thought about a neon place locally that
makes weird custom neons.

Are you talking about something similar to the 'grid lamps' Arista/o makes?

Murray



*
Enlarger lamp instructions.

I have had several lamps made for my panoramic enlargers at neon shops. I
had a green/blue set made for variable contrast.  It was a pain in the butt
to use without a fancy computer timer so I didn't use it except for extreme
contrast situations where I only needed green or blue. 

I have a picture of a lamp for a 2 x 7-1/2 inch format here:
http://www.panoramacamera.us/enl_lamp1.jpg


Use 9mm dia. tubing with cold white phosphor. Make a full size pattern of
the lamp. Explain to the glass maker that they have to bend the tubing in a
flat zig zag that covers whatever format you need. The bends and
cathode/anode should be on the outside of the format size. The distance
between each length of tube is the same as the diameter. The cathode/anode
should bend upwards slightly from the face (or even more to save space). 

Beg for a used sign transformer that will give you enough zap. They know
what sizes. I have a 9000V, 30ma transformer on a lamp with four linear feet
of glass which is pretty hot. 

Use black foam-core (best) or 1/4 in. ply. for the housing and mount the
grounded transformer on the wall out of the way. Don't have it where it can
be accidently touched. Regular zip cord appliance wire is OK for connections
but keep it away from metal and you! Wood or foam-core is an OK insulator
but not UL approved. Get a set of bananna plugs at Radio Shack for the
connections. 

To protect the lamp mount it on a piece of 1/16 clear plex with light wire
thru pairs of holes in the plex or use clear tape or dabs of silicone calk.

I used 1/8 in. milk (skim!) white plex for a diffuser with the glass about a
half inch away. The sign co. may have this. An alternative is clear plex
with layers of frosted mylar or tracing paper. Use white cardboard on top
and sides of the lamp for a reflector. When the lamp is on the individual
runs should not show.  It may take some testing and adjusting. Even Aristo
and Ilford lamps can need some adjustment for uneven lighting. 

The shutter assembly is easier to make than explain. It's design is from an
ancient Omega 8 x 10 enlarger with old style fluorescent lamps that remained
on at all times (modern enlarger lamps use a pre-heated cathode system). It
can be made any number of ways.  Any small motor (like from a hair dryer)
will do. The shutter is mounted below the lens. How this is done will of
course depend on your enlarger.  Mount a pivoting shutter (paddle shaped mat
board) to the motor armature axle. I used a motor with a small cooling fan
and cut away all but one blade of the fan and tape the shutter to the
remaining blade. Use a thin rubber band and a bumper stop to cause the
baffle to return closed when the power is shut off. It takes a bit of
trial-and-error but once you see it working it is obvious what to do. Fasten
a piece of soft foam material to the bumper to absorb the momentum of the
returning shutter. The motor is connected to the enlarger lamp outlet of the
darkroom timer (remember this is a switch - half the circuit - and can
switch low voltage DC motors too). The lens shutter should swiftly rotate
completely open (about 100 degrees) when you punch the timer, and close
completely without bouncing. It is a contraption and may require a bit of
tape and bubblegum to work the way you like it. Once it is adjusted it will
be trouble free. 

AZ





Maker of Lookaround panoramic camera.
http://www.panoramacamera.us
 or
keyword.com lookaround


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