Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
I would not use 3/8” line for anchoring anything but a dinghy. Not that would snap outright, but it has no margin at all for chafe and wear. FYI right now I have 30 feet of 5/16” chain and 5/8” rode. I used to have 12 feet of ¼” chain and half inch rode. It survived a hurricane, so it was obviously strong enough. We had all 200 feet out in about 10 feet of water and the boat felt like she was on a giant bungee cord as the hurricane bands passed over. I got away from eye splices and shackles on the end of the rode and now just splice it straight to the chain – much easier to retrieve over the bow roller and cheaper too ☺ Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 11:43 PM To: Chuck S; 1 CnC List Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain Considering I use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2 nylon for Shift, I have to agree. 3/8 nylon would be appropriate to give enough stretch with strength. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 12 May 2014 17:59, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mark, Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system? 5/8 nylon is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10. Just sayin. Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8 docklines and found I could never get them over my 6 and even 8 cleats. I use 1/2 nylon three strand twisted for lunch hook and 1/2 stretchy double braid for tougher situations. 36' and 11000#. Gave more than 200' of 5/8 nylon docklines to my brother-in-law for his clamboats. If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard for amazingly strong schackles in small sizes. Their SS is the strongest. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM Subject: Stus-List Shackles and chain Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded). Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode. But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle (or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain. Everything I read said I should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain link. Is that normal? I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results Mark -- There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 37+ Shower Valve
Does anyone know how to get to back of the shower valve to remove it? It looked like taking off the darker gray trim piece that runs around the shower might give access. I didn't want to remove this if there is another way. Thanks, Ron Ricci Patriot Bristol, RI ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 37+ Shower Valve
On our 37+ a previous owner put a deck access plate in the shower wall, just below the valve. One of these: http://www.beckson.com/dckplt.html Ken H. On 13 May 2014 11:15, Ron Ricci via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Does anyone know how to get to back of the shower valve to remove it? It looked like taking off the darker gray trim piece that runs around the shower might give access. I didn’t want to remove this if there is another way. Thanks, Ron Ricci Patriot Bristol, RI ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
Many years ago, a salty old retired USCG chief taught me the rule of thumb that you should have one pound of anchor and one foot of chain for every foot of boat length. I decided this current discussion would be a good time to double check that rule of thumb. I was pleased to find that Boat/US mAkes the same recommendation. Fortress anchor calls for less weight in their aluminum anchors, and a relatively short length of chain to help in setting the light anchor. But for steel anchors and a 30 knot wind, Fortress also says the pound/foot/foot system is recommended. Mark, I have to agree that 5/8 anchor rode is more than you need. I also use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2 3-strand for the anchor rode on my 38. I do have 65' of chain in each rode and oversized anchors, because once the anchor is down I want it to stay down. According to what I found this morning, the load on a typical sailboat at anchor in various wind strengths is: @15kt. @30kt. @42kt. @50kt 30'.175#.700#. 1400#. 2800# 35'. 225. 900. 1800. 3600 40'. 300. 1200. 2400.4800 Max working load of New England Ropes 3-strand is 1/3 of break strength (I prefer to use 25% in sizing the line myself). Break strength for various sizes are: 3/8.4400 # 1/2.7800 9/16. 9400 5/8. 12,200 So 1/2 rode should be adequate for a 30' boat in almost 50 kts, a 35' boat in 42+, or a 40' boat in well over 30 knots. I will almost always deploy a second anchor if the winds will be 30+. As far as what chain to use, the working load for various size chain is: Proof coil. HT (G4). BBB 1/4.1300. 2600 5/16. 1800. 3900.3800 3/8. 2650. 5400 So one could use big chain to increase catenary and help the anchor stay set, but 1/4HT is strong enough for up to a 40' boat in any reasonable conditions. Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On May 12, 2014, at 23:42, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Considering I use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2 nylon for Shift, I have to agree. 3/8 nylon would be appropriate to give enough stretch with strength. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 12 May 2014 17:59, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Mark, Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system? 5/8 nylon is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10. Just sayin. Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8 docklines and found I could never get them over my 6 and even 8 cleats. I use 1/2 nylon three strand twisted for lunch hook and 1/2 stretchy double braid for tougher situations. 36' and 11000#. Gave more than 200' of 5/8 nylon docklines to my brother-in-law for his clamboats. If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard for amazingly strong schackles in small sizes. Their SS is the strongest. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM Subject: Stus-List Shackles and chain Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded). Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode. But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle (or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain. Everything I read said I should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain link. Is that normal? I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results Mark -- There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
On 5/13/2014 12:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: On the topic of anchors and anchoring. Does anyone have any thoughts on kelets or anchor buddies? I ALWAYS use a kellet made from a small vinyl coated mushroom anchor, a couple of carabiners, 30 feet of small diameter line for retrieval, and one of these so it glides up and down the anchor line: http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4055115cp=3677347.11360113 Open the pulley and slip it over the rode. Slide it closed, and hang the anchor on it using the carabiner. Retrieval line is tied to the carabiner. Easy-peasey! In over 50 years, in conditions mild to wild, I have never dragged while using a kellet. I consider it essential, and it really is nothing to deploy and retrieve it. Bill Bina ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
They can be invaluable if you have a short length of chain and are anchoring in a current. Absent a kellet or enough chain, being anchored off Chestertown with a 2 knot reversing current always ends up with the rode around the keel. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:59 PM To: CC List Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain On the topic of anchors and anchoring. Does anyone have any thoughts on kelets or anchor buddies? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
I am far from being an expert on the topic, but the use of kellets always brings some discussions. Compare some of these: http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/kellets.php http://cruising.coastalboating.net/Seamanship/Anchoring/Kellets.html http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Kellets_and_buoys just my $0.02 Marek From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 1:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain They can be invaluable if you have a short length of chain and are anchoring in a current. Absent a kellet or enough chain, being anchored off Chestertown with a 2 knot reversing current always ends up with the rode around the keel. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:59 PM To: CC List Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain On the topic of anchors and anchoring. Does anyone have any thoughts on kelets or anchor buddies? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Re-galvanizing chain
Anyone have an idea where to have chain re-galvanized in the New England? Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
An excellent 25 lb bronze one came with my boat and I all ways use it. It is very helpful if you anchor where the currents shift with the tide. I can put 70LBs of metal near or on the bottom. But only retrieve 40lbs at a time. Much easier on the back. Mike Padanaram, MA -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 1:12 PM To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain On 5/13/2014 12:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: On the topic of anchors and anchoring. Does anyone have any thoughts on kelets or anchor buddies? I ALWAYS use a kellet made from a small vinyl coated mushroom anchor, a couple of carabiners, 30 feet of small diameter line for retrieval, and one of these so it glides up and down the anchor line: http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4055115cp=3677347.11360113 Open the pulley and slip it over the rode. Slide it closed, and hang the anchor on it using the carabiner. Retrieval line is tied to the carabiner. Easy-peasey! In over 50 years, in conditions mild to wild, I have never dragged while using a kellet. I consider it essential, and it really is nothing to deploy and retrieve it. Bill Bina ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Replacing the toilet and holding tank in a 1980 CC 30 Mk 1
I don't have. 30 Mk 1 but a Landfall 38 and I will be switching to a Nature's Head composting toilet very soon. You can completely eliminate the holding tank, all the smelly plumbing, and be zero discharge. It seems like a no brainier decision to me. The cost is about $1,000 but you save future pump out costs. Bob Bob Boyer (Sent from my iPad4) S/V Rainy Days 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 Annapolis, Maryland email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Shackles and chain
I think Joel is right in that what is unusual is that heavy anchor line and chain size for only a 27-lb anchor. I use that size anchor line and chain on my 44-lb anchor! Bob Bob Boyer (Sent from my iPad4) S/V Rainy Days 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 Annapolis, Maryland email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
Uh-oh. Buncha sailors comparing the size of their anchors. This won't end well! ;-) Bill Bina On 5/13/2014 2:38 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote: I think Joel is right in that what is unusual is that heavy anchor line and chain size for only a 27-lb anchor. I use that size anchor line and chain on my 44-lb anchor! Bob Bob Boyer (Sent from my iPad4) S/V Rainy Days 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 Annapolis, Maryland email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Standing water on deck
Hi all, I just recently bought a CC 33 Mk II and have noticed that I have standing water around the aft part of the toerail for several days after a rainfall. I was thinking of putting a notch in the toerail to help it drain (at least most of it) or perhaps a little 90 degree scupper from the deck to the hull. Or am i better off just to leave well enough alone? Thanks, Mike Atacama, Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
Chuck, Thanks for the info. I'm just going with what was on the boat when I bought it --- with only a 27lb plow/CQR anchor (Kingston K27) I can't imagine I'll over stress the 5/8" line --- but given there was 200+' of line already in my bow anchor locker all I needed to to do was replace the rusted chain and add new shackles. Looking online (Mantus Anchors and the Kingston anchor site) - they recommend 5/16" chain and 1/2 or 5/8" line. I'll have to check how well the line clips into the foredeck cleats -- never tested it! Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 12/05/2014 9:59 PM, Chuck S wrote: Mark, Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system? 5/8" nylon is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10". Just sayin. Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8" docklines and found I could never get them over my 6" and even 8" cleats. I use 1/2" nylon three strand twisted for lunch hook and 1/2" stretchy double braid for tougher situations. 36' and 11000#. Gave more than 200' of 5/8" nylon docklines to my brother-in-law for his clamboats. If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard for amazingly strong schackles in small sizes. Their SS is the strongest. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM Subject: Stus-List Shackles and chain Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded). Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8" rode. But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8" shackle (or even a 5/16") through the 5/16 chain. Everything I read said I should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain link. Is that normal? I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results Mark -- There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Mast Partner Construction on 1984 CC 41
Hi, I'm new to this list and have just acquired a 1984 CC 41. There is some fairly significant crazing on the deck around the mast partner. Therefore, I am trying to determine what the construction of the deck is to help with repairs. The fiberglass shop that I'm dealing with thinks it's probably not balsa cored but, rather a hardwood. Can anyone shed any light on this? By the way, great list. It has been really helpful reading all your posts. Regards, Steve Anderson Shadow - CC 41 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Partner Construction on 1984 CC 41
When I refurbished the area around my mast collar it was Balsa Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:45 PM To: Steve Anderson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Partner Construction on 1984 CC 41 Steve, Welcome!! Sweet boat! On my 83 35/3 the deck is cored except in high stress areas such as where the winches are mounted. There it is solid glass. I've never explored the area around the mast. Let us know what you find out. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 3:16 PM, Steve Anderson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi, I’m new to this list and have just acquired a 1984 CC 41. There is some fairly significant crazing on the deck around the mast partner. Therefore, I am trying to determine what the construction of the deck is to help with repairs. The fiberglass shop that I’m dealing with thinks it’s probably not balsa cored but, rather a hardwood. Can anyone shed any light on this? By the way, great list. It has been really helpful reading all your posts. Regards, Steve Anderson Shadow – CC 41 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck
So, Cut a piece of sponge about 1 square and 3-5 inches long. Slice it half way through near the center. Now insert the sponge through your rail hole near the water pool and open the cut slot to fit over the lower part of the rail and then leave it alone and never touch it again. The water absorbs into the sponge and since the outer end is lower than the inner end, water flows overboard and the whole thing dries up in the sunpick a dark color sponge and never take them out Or you can remove them for sailing and then put them back afterward ..DO NOT CUT into the RAIL . Ron C. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:02 PM To: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck You can also use a bit of cotton rope as a siphon, removing it while under way of course. Almost like a baggywrinkle. From: via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:52:12 PM Subject: Stus-List Standing water on deck Hi all, I just recently bought a CC 33 Mk II and have noticed that I have standing water around the aft part of the toerail for several days after a rainfall. I was thinking of putting a notch in the toerail to help it drain (at least most of it) or perhaps a little 90 degree scupper from the deck to the hull. Or am i better off just to leave well enough alone? Thanks, Mike Atacama, Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List PO,ed
Take me off this damn list NOW! ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 37+
Len, I did pull out the box cupboard and there is a bulkhead that blocks access on my boat. However, I could cut an access panel that would be hidden. Thanks for your help, Ron From: Len Mitchell [mailto:len.mitch...@barrie.ca] Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:42 PM To: 'ron.ri...@1968.usna.com' Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: CC 37+ Ron, It's a long reach but if you take the little box cupboard out, I think it was 2 or 4 screws and the whole thing comes out, you can see behind the shower. It's been a long time and I am not 100% sure you can reach there but worth a look. The previous owner had to repair a broken pipe there once. Much easier than swapping out the holding tank! Attached a picture of the cupboard in the aft cabin. Len Mitchell CRAZY LEGS 1989 37+ Midland On. -- This E-mail message (including attachments, if any) is intended for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and may contain information that is privileged, proprietary, confidential and exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender and erase this E-mail message immediately. - ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD
I would use the same thing I use for storing my mast in the winter, a 6 X 6 Pressure treated post which (now) supports the bulk of the mast and is high enough to the ends clear both the pulpits. I have 1 ½ plywood bolted onto the top with a cutout for the mast. If I was traveling with this, I would want it at least a few feet higher than this to get the clutter out of the way, then using some type of braces in the ends. At least this way, if you get some rough water or snag it on something, (very possible) it is supported more securely. A friend here took his Hinckley 42 south, and bought a couple really big blocks of Styrofoam and strapped the spar on top of them. I have been looking for the pictures of this, and cant find them. Stop by the EYC when you come through Lake Erie Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack McCall via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD Hello, My name is Jack McCall and I just purchased POP'AYE a C C 41 with shoal draft keel and centerboard. The boat is currently on its cradle at Gregory's Marina, Detroit, Michigan. Next week I will fly up to Detroit and with my five man crew we plan to sail the boat down to Venice, Florida where I currently live. We plan to cross Lake Erie and take the Erie Canal to the Hudson river. Sail down the Hudson River out New York Harbor and then down the East Coast to Norfolk, VA where we will enter the ICW (Inter-Coastal-Waterway) which we will follow all the way to South Florida. Next will be outside down to Key West and then around and up the West Coast of Florida to her new dock in Venice, Florida. Has anyone out there made this trip in a C C ??? I can use all the advice and tips anyone might offer. Experience with laying the mast down and securing it on deck for the transit of the Erie Canal is our first challenge. There are several marinas at both ends of the canal which have jib cranes to assist in the take down and stand up but I could use some advice as to the type of stands we should make to carry the mast on deck. Any advice as to retuning the rig when we stand it back up would be appreciated. I cannot find any tuning specifications and/or tips for the C C 41. I have acquired several cruising guides for the ICW but first had knowledge is always the best. Plan to be in the water by May 15 and then off to Florida by May 19. I will try to post some reports as our trip progresses. Aye for now, Jack McCall ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Partner Construction on 1984 CC 41
Calypso's 1971 Bruckmann built deck has a plywood core around the mast collar out about 6 then transitions to balsa. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle [cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Anderson via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:17 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Mast Partner Construction on 1984 CC 41 Hi, I'm new to this list and have just acquired a 1984 CC 41. There is some fairly significant crazing on the deck around the mast partner. Therefore, I am trying to determine what the construction of the deck is to help with repairs. The fiberglass shop that I'm dealing with thinks it's probably not balsa cored but, rather a hardwood. Can anyone shed any light on this? By the way, great list. It has been really helpful reading all your posts. Regards, Steve Anderson Shadow - CC 41 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck
One of the listers posted this tip: place a piece of line (3/8 or so) right along the toe rail, in the part where the water stands - maybe about two feet long and then have another foot or so threaded through the slot/hole in the toe rail and hanging over the side. It will wick the water out and flush it overboard. Trust me, it works! Some people use sponges stuffed through the slots and hanging over. Gary 30-1 with hanging water drippers - Original Message - From: via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:52 PM Subject: Stus-List Standing water on deck Hi all, I just recently bought a CC 33 Mk II and have noticed that I have standing water around the aft part of the toerail for several days after a rainfall. I was thinking of putting a notch in the toerail to help it drain (at least most of it) or perhaps a little 90 degree scupper from the deck to the hull. Or am i better off just to leave well enough alone? Thanks, Mike Atacama, Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List PO,ed
Stu... you've got to stop going out and signing people up for the list without them knowing about it. :-) Cheers, Colin On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 4:24 PM, william drose via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Take me off this damn list NOW! ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rebel Heart -
I have both an SSB and satphone on board. I've also been offshore getting smacked by the NE side of a named storm. We used the SSB for regular updates with the nearest shore based station (Bermuda Radio) and also used the SSB for sending and receiving email and weather data. It's great for that kind of stuff. The phone saw minimal use, but was very good for calling the wives when shit got really nasty. (which it did) Fortunately, the EPIRB wasn't ultimately required. If I had to choose between SSB and Satphone - I'd keep the SSB (with Pactor III) and ditch the phone - but there is a place for both if your budget allows. My $0.02 Cheers, Colin On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 9:36 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: There is a *lot* more to the story of Rebel Heart. You can find out all about it in the usual places. Long Story Short is the wife has issues, they never should have left Mexico, and having NO communications might have been the best thing for them. As for ham radio, it is very nice to have for a medical issue, but if your boat is sinking fast the SSB won't help much and I wouldn't rely on a SPOT or sat-phone to replace an EPIRB. 73 de N3HGB M/M Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2014 7:27 PM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Rebel Heart - Really not a pi___ng match - honest. I just can't stress enough how valuable and helpful the ham community can be. Please, if you venture offshore, take the time to learn and pursue a license. I am not bashing the sat phone - I had one on board when cruising. It just wouldn't be my go-to. Ok, yes, I would grab it because it is quick and might work. I'd do that while the SSB was warming up. John On May 11, 2014, at 7:07 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: No argument here. I don't want to get into a p___ing match with anyone. I'm too busy. Whatever you say. I have an HF receiver on board, and have listened and learned. Wal you wrote: I'm sorry, have to jump in here. With a sat phone, assuming it works, you may get some operator on the phone. With a SSB, assuming you took the time to learn it, you will probably get half the ham community on the other end. That is a group that will go above and beyond. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Replacing the toilet and holding tank in a 1980 CC 30 Mk 1
I changed the holding tank on my CC 30 because the thing was leaking. It starts by removing the vanity, the sink. It's fairly easy, everything is screwed, not glued. I had to destroy the back panel because screws were not accessible. I made a pattern for the new one before destroying the old one. Once everything is removed, clean with aggressive stuff and paint. Nothing like a new paint to get rid of old odours. Now that it took some time to remove all of this, I did a thorough job, including replacing old gate valve and thru hulls. I constructed a new septic tank to use as much space as I could, ending with a 20 gallon tank instead of 12. The tank has an odd shape and was made with 1/4 plywood as a support for fiberglass inside and outside. I also added a semi transparent window, to see the level in there. There is also a pump that allow me to empty the tank out at sea, far away from coast. Finally, note there are two air intake, to ensure a good supply of oxygen in the tank, the recipe to no odours. Here are some pictures: http://s118.photobucket.com/user/roseant/media/Img_0293.jpg.html?sort=3o=24 http://s118.photobucket.com/user/roseant/media/Img_0296.jpg.html?sort=3o=23 Antoine (CC 30 Cousin) Le 2014-05-12 à 13:09, Peter Delean via CnC-List a écrit : Before I break a sweat, thought I should check in with the group. I know the holding tank is behind the teak wall or vanity but I was curious as to how much had to be removed before gaining access to the tank. If it all needs to be removed, is there anyone out there who can supply photos, nuggets of wisdom, step by step instructions, tips or tricks to getting things apart with minimal destruction? I know several have done this job on their boats, and replaced the metal holding tank with a plastic one. (I lost the names of tank suppliers). I am looking at installing one of the new Jabsco toilets. After resetting the hard drive on my computer I lost the link to the archives and my links to suppliers, so I have not checked there yet. From Peter, in Penetanguishene...running out of Febreze. Peter Delean CC 30 Mk1 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Partner Construction on 1984 CC 41
Rebuilt my deck around the mast collar. It was balsa cored and the core was not sealed very well and got wet. I cut out an opening about 18 w X 24 long, replaced the balsa and rebuilt the deck trying to match the original layup and camber. I centered the collar using a string line bow to stern and measuring from the toerail. I overdrilled the bolt holes and filled w epoxy and redrilled. I finished the top by glassing in a 1/4 thick fiberglass boss matched by a backing plate below and epoxied the whole thing so it is sealed and waterproofed. My mast collar is cast aluminum and was pretty beat up and mostly grey. I looked into options such as buying a new part, having it anodized, and settled on stripping it and spraying with black Rustoleum. It could use some touchup where it's been scraped, but looks pretty good after 6 years. I can send pics? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 3:16:59 PM Subject: Stus-List Mast Partner Construction on 1984 CC 41 Hi, I’m new to this list and have just acquired a 1984 CC 41. There is some fairly significant crazing on the deck around the mast partner. Therefore, I am trying to determine what the construction of the deck is to help with repairs. The fiberglass shop that I’m dealing with thinks it’s probably not balsa cored but, rather a hardwood. Can anyone shed any light on this? By the way, great list. It has been really helpful reading all your posts. Regards, Steve Anderson Shadow – CC 41 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain
Our boat has a bulb with a stinger that extends past the trailing edge of the keel. I use a kellet, (Walmart 20# mushroom anchor) and it does a good job to keep the slack on the bottom and a small round fender to keep the line near the surface as far from the bow as possible, but found the best prevention, is an alarm clock to check the anchor during a tide change. If the wind is opposite the current, we anchor somewhere else. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 1:33:24 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain They can be invaluable if you have a short length of chain and are anchoring in a current. Absent a kellet or enough chain, being anchored off Chestertown with a 2 knot reversing current always ends up with the rode around the keel. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:59 PM To: CC List Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain On the topic of anchors and anchoring. Does anyone have any thoughts on kelets or anchor buddies? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List PO,ed
Almost 20 years into internet lists and people still scream, GET ME OFF THIS LIST! instead of selecting the unsubscribe option. What does that say about a person's list skills? And... what did someone on this list do to piss him off so much? :-) Ed On May 13, 2014, at 4:24 PM, william drose via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Take me off this damn list NOW! ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
