Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Richard;
 
This is a subject that gets covered often on the list. You will find a wealth of instructions on the DIY section of the Photo Album, or in the list archives.
 
But first, you will need to identify which version of portlights (the name for non-opening cbin windos) you have. Early boats came with an aluminum frame mounted to the cabin side, with a polycarbonate window pane mounted with a seal inside the window and a spline outside and holding the window into the frame. This version was common until the late 70s - say 79 or so. 
 
Later boats had the portlights bonded to the outside of the cabin sides with a material called Plexus.
 
I have the aluminum frames on both of my boats. New lenses can be nade by any glass shop that repairs storm doors - the 1/4" smoked gray panes for my boats cost about $10 each. The inner seal can be bought at LOWES, a 20-25 foot roll of EPDM seal costs about $15 or so. I have part of a roll left over but it is in the storage shed. Someone on the list can give you a part number to purchase. The outer spline can be gotten from the glas shop, or bought on Ebay pretty cheaply. IIRC I paid about 40 cents a foot for the last I bought.
 
If you have the glued in windows, several listers have alternate suggestions for gluingnew panes to the cabin top. Keep in mind that the portlight becomes part of the structure of the boat and is subject to a lot of flexing and high loads, so you want to do the repair with that in mind. 
 
If you tell us which style of portlight you have, we can provide more information to you.
 
Rick Brass
Washington, NC.  
 

-Original Message- From: Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List Sent: Jun 2, 2014 10:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1 



Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement.  Does anyone have any experience, advice or suggestions?
Thanks,
Rick Jorgensen



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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

It varies on each point around the mast and from boat to boat.  Heck, on 
my boat the hole through the deck is about 3/8" off center.  The first 
time, I made rough chocks and then spent a day on the dock with a belt 
sander forming the chocks to fit.  The second time, I did a generic 
spar-tite thing.




Mike wrote:

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks




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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Rick: what year is your 30 ? If it has aluminum frames you can replace the 
rubber gasket that seals the windows in. Holland Marine in Toronto sells it . 
South Shore yachts does also 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Jun 2, 2014, at 10:25 PM, Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement.  Does anyone 
> have any experience, advice or suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Rick Jorgensen
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Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Richard Jorgensen via CnC-List]

Both cabin windows on my C&C30 are leaking and need replacement.  Does
anyone have any experience, advice or suggestions?

Thanks,

Rick Jorgensen

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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Allied built a knock off of the Cape Dory 25. One came through the city docks 
where I work about a week ago, with a young couple moving it to their new home. 
When I asked if it was a Cape Dory, they told me it was an Allied, licensed 
from the Cape Dory 25 design.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 2, 2014, at 18:23, Bill Bina via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The issue with the Bluenose is that it is only maybe 16 feet long and this 
> boat is obviously much bigger. The cape dory I linked has the same port 
> configuration, but I agree that the stern is wrong. There were a ton of "me 
> too" boats in that era, so this could even be from some company that built 
> 10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems the right size range. The roue 20 
> lacks the wood coamings, and has slotted metal toerails. To me it seems like 
> just another of the "me too" boats with lines approximately borrowed from CD. 
> This boat has many CD inspired visual clues. The little triangular second set 
> of spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine that is probably wrong, 
> but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks similar but not 
> identical to a Sea Sprite.
> 
> http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:
>> The stern of the cape dorey is quite different and not as sleek as the lttle 
>> Bluenose or the Roue 20, which is another possibility but the Roue 20 is 30 
>> feet long
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
>> - gmail via CnC-List
>> Sent: June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
>>  
>> http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>>> On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:
> 
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Re: Stus-List 2012 Annapolis Bermuda Race C&C 37

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Good for you!! 


- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "Pete Shelquist" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Sent: Sunday, June 1, 2014 7:37:31 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2012 Annapolis Bermuda Race C&C 37 

I know it too -- I'll be on Impromptu crewing for Steve in the Annapolis - 
Bermuda race. 

Monty 
Scandia 
1991 C&C 34+ 
Annapolis, MD 

Sent from my iPad 

On Jun 1, 2014, at 3:12 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 






I scanned through the photos of 2012 Annapolis-Bermuda race and found a 37 
named “Impromptu” out of Galesville, MD. Anyone know it? 






From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Joel 
Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 11:46 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Annapolis Bermuda Race 





All, 





One week to the gun! I want to thank all of you in advance for your support, 
advice, patience, equipment and even sails that have made it possible for me to 
enter the race. 





There will be fellow C&C ers on the boat both ways! 





Our class includes Steve Sharkey's C&C 37 as well as a mini transat 21 footer 
and a 100 foot schooner. Should make the starting line interesting. You can 
track us at www.bermudaoceanrace.com . They are using Spots, not Yellowbrick. 





Finally, as a follow up to an earlier post, I ran out of time to make a fancy 
enclosure for the frig compressor. Some corrugated plastic board from Home 
Depot and duct tape will suffice for now. If nothing else, it will serve as a 
template for a more permanent solution. 





-- 
Joel 


The Office 


Annapolis 
301 541 8551 





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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

David, 
I would suggest: 
Call Tides Marine about their mast track system. 

Call Gore manufacturer about the packing. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Magothy River. Md 
- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Sunday, June 1, 2014 2:45:22 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box 

Splashing and first motor/sail is always such an interesting (read frustrating) 
time. Aries splashed on Friday and I moved it to its summer mooring yesterday. 
I would some year like to make this trip with no issues, but so far it has 
never happened. 

1. The autopilot circuit breaker popped every time I tried to activate it, so 
that is a project for the future. I presume something is frozen preventing the 
motor from turning the gear, although how that would happen sitting under a 
cover for a few months would happen is mysterious to me. I will disassemble 
(again) and try to fix it. 

2. I tried to install the new Tides Marine track system on my mast. The test 
piece of track went in smoothly, so the size is right. But when I tried to 
install the actual track, the welded boom attachment fitting prevented a smooth 
entry of the track into the slot and I was unable to get it to slide in at all. 
Has anyone faced this problem and solved it? 

3. The question I expect someone can answer is about the stuffing box. I 
repacked it with Gore packing and then hand tightened the collar while the boat 
was on the hard. When launched, I saw no dripping at all at the dock. After 
running for about 30 minutes there was still no dripping while motoring and the 
coupling was quite hot. How hot would this get if adjusted correctly? Should I 
loosen the coupling until it drips a bit while running? 


David Knecht 
Aries 
1990 C&C 34+ 
New London, CT 



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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[via CnC-List]

Oftentimes the southeast coast marinas have pretty thin water (as does ICW) so 
a cb allows you to dock your boat almost anywhere.


At the same time, when the water is deeper, dropping the board allows the boat 
to go to weather as well as any deep fin keel, although
the cb trunk is a lot 'thicker' than most fin keels since it must accommodate 
the board. 


She isn't as fast to weather as the 36 foot fin keels but at least she points 
at the same angle--something that will never happen with a shallower keel or 
wing keel--too much leeway.


Further, AFAIK, C&C cb boats always had a substantial cb trunk so that the boat 
had a heavy keel, even with the cb retracted. Thus pinning the board up 
affects primarily the ability to go to weather. 
 
For instance, my cb/keel has about a 5600 lb keel/cb (per the specifications) 
and the board weighs ~ 1000 lbs. Up or down, I have plenty of ballast and a 
ballast to displacement ratio of about 0.41 no matter where the board is!


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: dwight via CnC-List 
To: 'Hoyt, Mike' ; cnc-list 
Sent: Mon, Jun 2, 2014 8:12 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit


I thought the idea of the CB designs was to accommodate areas that had water
depth issues...luckily we don't have much problem like that around here but
I could have used a CB design a few times, especially I remember the sandy
shoals in Eastern Passage 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: June 2, 2014 8:46 PM
To: Paul Fountain; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

I am just a wee bit curious.  Did c&c put cb in these boats for a reason?
do they suck upwind without them? Do they capsize?  .. or was the designer
an anal idiot that put something totally unnecessary and useless and
complicated on the boat?

Sorry Edd. I read this and just gotta ask

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Mon 02/06/2014 6:53 PM
To: Edd Schillay; 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit
 
Edd,

I can smile and relate to your cb challenges...

2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to
release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which
stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.

We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled
the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so
over due for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the
replacement - and when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was
70% or more worn thru, the thimble was also well worn ...

Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on
board.

The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing
days!

Paul. :)


On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Just curious - does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their
centerboard and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I'm curious to know
how much credit was given. I've been told it can be anywhere from 3-9
points. '

Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow.

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain's Log if you're curious.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world's only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Steve Sharkey via CnC-List]

There is a noticeable improvement in upwind pointing and speed with the 
centerboard down and having a boat that only draws 4.5' with the centerboard 
up vs. 6.5 for the fixed keel version opens up a lot of cruising in a Bay 
that is very shallow.


I've had the pendent break on my old C&C 35 and on my C&C 37, but both time 
were because of lack of maintenance.  I replace it at least every 5 years 
now and the expense is pretty modest.


Steve Sharkey
C&C 37
Impromptu

-Original Message- 
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 7:46 PM
To: Paul Fountain ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

I am just a wee bit curious.  Did c&c put cb in these boats for a reason? 
do they suck upwind without them? Do they capsize?  .. or was the designer 
an anal idiot that put something totally unnecessary and useless and 
complicated on the boat?


Sorry Edd. I read this and just gotta ask

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Mon 02/06/2014 6:53 PM
To: Edd Schillay; 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

Edd,

I can smile and relate to your cb challenges...

2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to 
release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which 
stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.


We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled 
the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so 
over due for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the 
replacement - and when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 
70% or more worn thru, the thimble was also well worn ...


Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
board.


The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing 
days!


Paul. :)


On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,

Just curious - does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their 
centerboard and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I'm curious to know 
how much credit was given. I've been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 
points. '


Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow.

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain's Log if you're curious.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world's only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[Mike McGrane via CnC-List]

Thanks Rich, yes I was looking for the dimensions for the wedges at the 
partners.   The mast was pulled for electrical work over the winter and PO used 
scrap 2x4 that wasn't doing a great job (would fall on your head in a good 
breeze).   I've got some scrap white oak that I want to mill them from and 
would like to get a good fit.

Sorry for the multiple emails - I know not to try to respond via yahoo on my 
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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

 alignment related as well to being on the hard for so
> long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.
>
> 4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no
> drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted
> until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while
> turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the
> temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly
> at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time
> number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the
> nut in this position and it ran fine.
>
> 5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks
> like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike
> the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
> y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A
> inlet cable, what does the list think?
>
> 6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to
> the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned
> vibration above 1000.
>
> 7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone
> of voice?.as if we were ghosting?.
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
>
> TORONTO, Ontario
>
>
>
> ag@@airsensing.com
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 09:14:26 -0400
From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
Message-ID:
<1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010dd27d4...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi guys,

Here are some more tidbits.

The unit I chose was the Electric Yachts Inc system because another 
CC 35-II owner here in Toronto installed one in his in 2010 and I 
got a ride on the boat in 2012 and was impressed.


Opposed to all other boat items, I chose a professional installer 
who did a bang up job.


He also left me the installation and start up instructions, which I 
somehow misplaced on the second last day on the hard, so I was 
somewhat anxious how it was even to be started.


I couldn't find them online, so need to get more info on alignment.

RANGE; Cruise power of 1100 rpm is about 4 hours. Speed at that 
setting should be a bit north of 4kts, but I haven't had the ability 
to cross check against a knot meter, or GPS.


I chose this for a few reasons:

As much as I love diesel (I own a Jetta TDI) I love diesel and I 
don't think short spurts are good for that engine type. So, I wanted 
a motor which can run short bursts and this one does.


I chose a 10hp model as this suits a 15-20 bhp of a diesel and I 
only use my engine for mooring and docking.  I'm also a bit hard 
core that way in that I believe a sailor who can't dead stick a 
mooring ball or a finger dock somewhere isn't a complete sailor, but 
each to his own.


The net engine/battery weight is 100 lbs less than the 15 hp 
Westerbeke 4-60 and fuel tank but from a weight and balance point of 
view less favourable because the heavier batteries are where the 
tank was and the lighter engine is where the engine was, so we'll be 
a bit tank heavy.  Not being a nautical engineer, the calcs are a 
bit beyond me, but I expect to load the bow up when sailing.


My wife bought into the less noise, and eventually less vibration 
and definitely less smell and grime in exchange for hot showers 
which we didn't have hooked up anyway.


Stuff remaining:

Balance the prop
Figure out my shore power/recharging
Enjoying quiet motoring in enclosed waterways

Cheers!

Alexander M. Giannelia
President

the airborne sensing corporation
555 Richmond Street West, Suite 912, PO Box 1008, Toronto, Ontario 
M5V 3B1, Canada


Phone(416) 203-9858
Mobile(416) 529-0070
Fax  (416) 203-9843

*Notre site web est aussi disponible en fran?ais! 
www.airsensing.com<<http://www.airsensing.com/>http://www.airsensing.com/>


-- next part 

Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

The hull is a dead ringer for a Bristol 24, designed by Paul Coble, as are the 
cabin and cockpit. The cove stripe also looks similar to a Bristol, although 
it’s difficult to tell for sure from the photos.

But the portlights don’t match, and the Bristol 24 was not a fractional rig, as 
far as I know.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 8:22 PM
To: w...@wbryant.com ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

Correct.  Alberg didn't design the 25, but they sold alot of them.  I owned a 
22 that was one of Alberg's last designs.  Strong boat, though needed wind to 
come alive.  Really sliced through waves.  Vee hull, no flat spots.  

The boat in the ad is an older Cape Dory 25, hence the "Scape Dory" title?  
Just sayin.






From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 12:13:22 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?


Alberg was my first thought, although the listed designer for the Cape
Dory 25 is George Stadel. Definitely follows the Carl Alberg lines, and
Alberg designed the first Cape Dory yacht.  (I'm not an expert, I just
know how to use Google. )


Those Alberg boats were so beautiful that little mom and pop shops in
Taiwan were making molds from existing hulls.  (BTW, that was also done
with the C&C 40, if memory serves.  I saw one once, and was amazed that
they didn't even fill in the stars.  The owner insisted that it was just
like a Swan, only better...)


And don't get me started on the concept of things needing no other
reason to exist other than they're pretty.  Heck, I saw a young couple
on a bus today, and the boy was totally ensmattered.  Heck, even I was
entranced.  But when she stood up and got off the bus, I knew she'd be
fat in five years.


Wal


Andrew wrote:
> I think she has an Alberg look to her, too. Gorgeous little boat.
> Some things on this planet need no other reason to exists beyond the fact 
> they're pretty.



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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Correct. Alberg didn't design the 25, but they sold alot of them. I owned a 22 
that was one of Alberg's last designs. Strong boat, though needed wind to come 
alive. Really sliced through waves. Vee hull, no flat spots. 

The boat in the ad is an older Cape Dory 25, hence the "Scape Dory" title? Just 
sayin. 


- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 12:13:22 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat? 

Alberg was my first thought, although the listed designer for the Cape 
Dory 25 is George Stadel. Definitely follows the Carl Alberg lines, and 
Alberg designed the first Cape Dory yacht. (I'm not an expert, I just 
know how to use Google. ) 

Those Alberg boats were so beautiful that little mom and pop shops in 
Taiwan were making molds from existing hulls. (BTW, that was also done 
with the C&C 40, if memory serves. I saw one once, and was amazed that 
they didn't even fill in the stars. The owner insisted that it was just 
like a Swan, only better...) 

And don't get me started on the concept of things needing no other 
reason to exist other than they're pretty. Heck, I saw a young couple 
on a bus today, and the boy was totally ensmattered. Heck, even I was 
entranced. But when she stood up and got off the bus, I knew she'd be 
fat in five years. 

Wal 

Andrew wrote: 
> I think she has an Alberg look to her, too. Gorgeous little boat. 
> Some things on this planet need no other reason to exists beyond the fact 
> they're pretty. 


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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[dwight via CnC-List]

I thought the idea of the CB designs was to accommodate areas that had water
depth issues...luckily we don't have much problem like that around here but
I could have used a CB design a few times, especially I remember the sandy
shoals in Eastern Passage 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: June 2, 2014 8:46 PM
To: Paul Fountain; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

I am just a wee bit curious.  Did c&c put cb in these boats for a reason?
do they suck upwind without them? Do they capsize?  .. or was the designer
an anal idiot that put something totally unnecessary and useless and
complicated on the boat?

Sorry Edd. I read this and just gotta ask

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Mon 02/06/2014 6:53 PM
To: Edd Schillay; 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit
 
Edd,

I can smile and relate to your cb challenges...

2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to
release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which
stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.

We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled
the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so
over due for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the
replacement - and when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was
70% or more worn thru, the thimble was also well worn ...

Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on
board.

The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing
days!

Paul. :)


On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Just curious - does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their
centerboard and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I'm curious to know
how much credit was given. I've been told it can be anywhere from 3-9
points. '

Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow.

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain's Log if you're curious.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world's only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List C&C Flush Mount Through Hulls

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Jamestown has a good site: 
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12075&familyName=Groco+Flush+Mount+Bronze+Thru-Hull+Fittings
 




Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 4:01:49 PM 
Subject: Stus-List C&C Flush Mount Through Hulls 

Has anyone found a source for the ‘extra large diameter’ flush-mount through 
hulls used on C&C’s (a 79 C&C 27 Mk III to be exact)? 
Peter Fell 
Sidney, BC 
C&C 27 MkIII 

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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I am just a wee bit curious.  Did c&c put cb in these boats for a reason?  do 
they suck upwind without them? Do they capsize?  .. or was the designer an anal 
idiot that put something totally unnecessary and useless and complicated on the 
boat?

Sorry Edd. I read this and just gotta ask

Mike




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List on behalf of Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Mon 02/06/2014 6:53 PM
To: Edd Schillay; 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit
 
Edd,

I can smile and relate to your cb challenges...

2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to release 
the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which stopper he 
pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.

We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled the 
cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so over due 
for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the replacement - and 
when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 70% or more worn 
thru, the thimble was also well worn ...

Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
board.

The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing days!

Paul. :)


On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Just curious - does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their centerboard 
and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I'm curious to know how much credit 
was given. I've been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 points. '

Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow.

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain's Log if you're curious.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world's only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

ardly noticeable
>
> 3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised
> was due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so
> long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.
>
> 4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no
> drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted
> until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while
> turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the
> temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly
> at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time
> number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the
> nut in this position and it ran fine.
>
> 5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks
> like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station,
unlike
> the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
> y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A
> inlet cable, what does the list think?
>
> 6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to
> the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned
> vibration above 1000.
>
> 7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone
> of voice?.as if we were ghosting?.
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
>
> TORONTO, Ontario
>
>
>
> ag@@airsensing.com
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 09:14:26 -0400
From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com  "  >
Subject: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
Message-ID:
<1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010dd27d4...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net
 >

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi guys,

Here are some more tidbits.

The unit I chose was the Electric Yachts Inc system because another CC 35-II
owner here in Toronto installed one in his in 2010 and I got a ride on the
boat in 2012 and was impressed.

Opposed to all other boat items, I chose a professional installer who did a
bang up job.

He also left me the installation and start up instructions, which I somehow
misplaced on the second last day on the hard, so I was somewhat anxious how
it was even to be started.

I couldn't find them online, so need to get more info on alignment.

RANGE; Cruise power of 1100 rpm is about 4 hours. Speed at that setting
should be a bit north of 4kts, but I haven't had the ability to cross check
against a knot meter, or GPS.

I chose this for a few reasons:

As much as I love diesel (I own a Jetta TDI) I love diesel and I don't think
short spurts are good for that engine type. So, I wanted a motor which can
run short bursts and this one does.

I chose a 10hp model as this suits a 15-20 bhp of a diesel and I only use my
engine for mooring and docking.  I'm also a bit hard core that way in that I
believe a sailor who can't dead stick a mooring ball or a finger dock
somewhere isn't a complete sailor, but each to his own.

The net engine/battery weight is 100 lbs less than the 15 hp Westerbeke 4-60
and fuel tank but from a weight and balance point of view less favourable
because the heavier batteries are where the tank was and the lighter engine
is where the engine was, so we'll be a bit tank heavy.  Not being a nautical
engineer, the calcs are a bit beyond me, but I expect to load the bow up
when sailing.

My wife bought into the less noise, and eventually less vibration and
definitely less smell and grime in exchange for hot showers which we didn't
have hooked up anyway.

Stuff remaining:

Balance the prop
Figure out my shore power/recharging
Enjoying quiet motoring in enclosed waterways

Cheers!

Alexander M. Giannelia
President

the airborne sensing corporation
555 Richmond Street West, Suite 912, PO Box 1008, Toronto, Ontario M5V 3B1,
Canada

Phone(416) 203-9858
Mobile(416) 529-0070
Fax  (416) 203-9843

*Notre site web est aussi disponible en fran?ais!
www.airsensing.com<http://www.airsensing.com/>

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Re: Stus-List TackTick [raymarine] Analog Wind Display problem

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I had something similar happen w my TackTick. The wind display showed direction 
but 0.0 for speed. Thought I had a bad masthead unit. After two days on the 
boat I noticed the little letters next to the zeros. I pushed a few buttons and 
switched the unit to display App and Tru and got better wind speeds on the 
display. 

Apparently I had bumped some buttons and put it into calibrate mode? Better 
now. I hope yours is similar. 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "kelly petew" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 5:49:16 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List TackTick [raymarine] Analog Wind Display problem 

Is call Ray. Sounds like a bad masthead unit. 

Joel 

On Monday, June 2, 2014, kelly petew via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



My fellow TackTick users, 
anyone had this problem -- I have only the wind speed display and it will no 
longer correctly point to the apparent wind direction and track it. 
It displays "CH" or "CH wind", and the LCD pointer is either pointing directly 
forward or directly astern [95% of the time]. 
The apparent wind speed readings appear reasonable, and the masthead unit [cups 
and vane] appear to be working properly. 
I've been searching the Raymarine.com site, but I also thought someone here 
might have some advice. 

Thanks, 

Pete W. 

'91 C&C 30MKII 
Siren Song 
Deltaville, VA 





-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Inboard drive question

[Dan Sargeant via CnC-List]

Hi Mark,
I'm relatively new to the inboard world but would take the liberty of
suggesting that ANY oscillation in the shaft would not be a good thing.
Sorry to say that but I didn't see anybody else commenting. Just my
thought. I don't think you'd lose a summer. Drop me a note and I could
suggest somebody to help.
Dan Sargeant
Ocean Pearl
Mahone Bay, NS


On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 2:37 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Spent all day Sunday working on the boat - cleaning up the coolant mess,
> installing cabin cushions, putting everything away.
>
> Went for a short buzz out of the cove (now have boat at a dock in Deep
> Cove, Mahone Bay, to see how the sailing is).  My tach is not working
> (another job) - so I don't have specific details - but there seems to be a
> lot of vibration when I start increasing the throttle.
> Moving along slowly (~3kts) there is some vibration, but not bad. But
> above 1/2 (I'm totally guessing because I've not had the guts to drive it
> up to full throttle yet) more vibration.  at 5.5kts it feels like a lot to
> me.
> I did climb down earlier and look at the shaft spinning - I can see it
> oscillating maybe 1/2 inch.  Is that normal?  A problem with the prop
> (Martec folding prop - original as far as I know -- didn't see excessively
> loose when I had the boat on the hard)? Or maybe a problem with the prop
> shaft?
> I'd rather not kill the season pulling the prop shaft out now.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Mark
>
> CS 30 Prosecco
>
> --
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

Haven't even looks at the pics, but is it a McVey Minuet? Just a WAG. 

Rich

> On Jun 2, 2014, at 19:31, Graham Collins via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I agree it isn't a Bluenose, but a bluenose is 23' 3" LOA per specs.  16 ft 
> on the waterline though, she has pretty long overhangs.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2014-06-02 7:23 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List wrote:
>> The issue with the Bluenose is that it is only maybe 16 feet long and this 
>> boat is obviously much bigger. The cape dory I linked has the same port 
>> configuration, but I agree that the stern is wrong. There were a ton of "me 
>> too" boats in that era, so this could even be from some company that built 
>> 10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems the right size range. The roue 
>> 20 lacks the wood coamings, and has slotted metal toerails. To me it seems 
>> like just another of the "me too" boats with lines approximately 
>> borrowed from CD. This boat has many CD inspired visual clues. The little 
>> triangular second set of spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine 
>> that is probably wrong, but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks 
>> similar but not identical to a Sea Sprite.
>> 
>> http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>>> On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:
>>> The stern of the cape dorey is quite different and not as sleek as the 
>>> lttle Bluenose or the Roue 20, which is another possibility but the Roue 20 
>>> is 30 feet long
>>>  
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
>>> Bina - gmail via CnC-List
>>> Sent: June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
>>>  
>>> http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Bill Bina
 On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:
   
  
>>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

I agree it isn't a Bluenose, but a bluenose is 23' 3" LOA per specs.  16 
ft on the waterline though, she has pretty long overhangs.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-02 7:23 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List wrote:
The issue with the Bluenose is that it is only maybe 16 feet long and 
this boat is obviously much bigger. The cape dory I linked has the 
same port configuration, but I agree that the stern is wrong. There 
were a ton of "me too" boats in that era, so this could even be from 
some company that built 10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems 
the right size range. The roue 20 lacks the wood coamings, and has 
slotted metal toerails. To me it seems like just another of the "me 
too" boats with lines approximately borrowed from CD. This boat has 
many CD inspired visual clues. The little triangular second set of 
spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine that is probably 
wrong, but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks similar 
but not identical to a Sea Sprite.


http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781

Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:


The stern of the cape dorey is quite different and not as sleek as 
the lttle Bluenose or the Roue 20, which is another possibility but 
the Roue 20 is 30 feet long




*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html


Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

  
  






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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
The issue with the Bluenose is that it
  is only maybe 16 feet long and this boat is obviously much bigger.
  The cape dory I linked has the same port configuration, but I
  agree that the stern is wrong. There were a ton of "me too" boats
  in that era, so this could even be from some company that built
  10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems the right size range.
  The roue 20 lacks the wood coamings, and has slotted metal
  toerails. To me it seems like just another of the "me too" boats
  with lines approximately borrowed from CD. This boat has many CD
  inspired visual clues. The little triangular second set of
  spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine that is probably
  wrong, but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks
  similar but not identical to a Sea Sprite.
  
  http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:


  
  
  

  

  

  
  
  
The
  stern of the cape dorey
  is quite different and not as sleek as the
  lttle Bluenose or the Roue 20, which
  is another possibility but the Roue 20 is 30
  feet long
 

  

  
  From:
CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Bill Bina - gmail
via CnC-List
Sent:
June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
Re: Stus-List Can anyone
identify the class of this boat?

 
http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html
  
  
  Bill Bina

  On 6/2/2014 1:08
PM,
David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:


   
   

 
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Eric

Sorry, not a bluenose.  The general hull shape looks close, but that is 
true of lots from that era.  The cabin would be a one-off for sure, I've 
never seen a bluenose with one that big.  And the rig is wrong, the 
upper diamond is too high for a bluenose - the jumper stays are about 
1/3rd from the top on a bluenose, those are higher.


The one we built when I was a kid is in this picture, B-79
https://www.flickr.com/photos/36947638@N08/3395942121/

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-02 1:58 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote:
From the overall hull shape and way the hull comes out of the water 
well before the stern, the best match of all the responses was from 
Dwight, who thought it might be a Bluenose sloop, first built in 1946. 
 Also note the way the mast is stayed, with upper shrouds pushed 
forward (they must have a correct name, but I don't know it). The 
later ones were fiberglass (built by McVay - wouldn't you know, 
another Canadian classic design!) and most seem to have little or no 
cabin, but some pictures do have small cabins, so perhaps that was 
done to the boat I saw.  Here is a website describing them if you care 
to match specs with the photos I posted:


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CEQQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fsailboatdata.com%2Fviewrecord.asp%3Fclass_id%3D40&ei=m6eMU6vOKIbQsQSq9ICYDg&usg=AFQjCNEjklU00OZvZhZ0-mdQ7ry3I7Lcpw&bvm=bv.67720277,d.cWc

Or just Google Bluenose sloop.

Here are my two photos (again) for comparison.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Eric



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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Edd,

I can smile and relate to your cb challenges...

2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to release 
the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which stopper he 
pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.

We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled the 
cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so over due 
for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the replacement - and 
when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 70% or more worn 
thru, the thimble was also well worn ...

Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
board.

The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing days!

Paul. :)


On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers,

Just curious - does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their centerboard 
and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I'm curious to know how much credit 
was given. I've been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 points. '

Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow.

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain's Log if you're curious.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world's only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List TackTick [raymarine] Analog Wind Display problem

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Is call Ray. Sounds like a bad masthead unit.

Joel

On Monday, June 2, 2014, kelly petew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My fellow TackTick users,
> anyone had this problem -- I have only the wind speed display and it will
> no longer correctly point to the apparent wind direction and track it.
> It displays "CH" or "CH wind", and the LCD pointer is either pointing
> directly forward or directly astern [95% of the time].
> The apparent wind speed readings appear reasonable, and the masthead unit
> [cups and vane] appear to be working properly.
> I've been searching the Raymarine.com site, but I also thought someone
> here might have some advice.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete W.
>
> '91 C&C 30MKII
> Siren Song
> Deltaville, VA
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List TackTick [raymarine] Analog Wind Display problem

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

My fellow TackTick users, 
anyone had this problem -- I have only the wind speed display and it will no 
longer correctly point to the apparent wind direction and track it.  
It displays "CH" or "CH wind", and the LCD pointer is either pointing directly 
forward or directly astern [95% of the time].  
The apparent wind speed readings appear reasonable, and the masthead unit [cups 
and vane] appear to be working properly.  
I've been searching the Raymarine.com site, but I also thought someone here 
might have some advice.
 
Thanks,
 
Pete W.
 
'91 C&C 30MKII
Siren Song
Deltaville, VA
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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[dwight via CnC-List]

gt; 4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no
> drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted
> until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while
> turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the
> temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly
> at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time
> number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the
> nut in this position and it ran fine.
>
> 5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks
> like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station,
unlike
> the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
> y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A
> inlet cable, what does the list think?
>
> 6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to
> the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned
> vibration above 1000.
>
> 7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone
> of voice?.as if we were ghosting?.
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
>
> TORONTO, Ontario
>
>
>
> ag@@airsensing.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com  
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 09:14:26 -0400
From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com  "  >
Subject: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
Message-ID:
<1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010dd27d4...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net
 >

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi guys,

Here are some more tidbits.

The unit I chose was the Electric Yachts Inc system because another CC 35-II
owner here in Toronto installed one in his in 2010 and I got a ride on the
boat in 2012 and was impressed.

Opposed to all other boat items, I chose a professional installer who did a
bang up job.

He also left me the installation and start up instructions, which I somehow
misplaced on the second last day on the hard, so I was somewhat anxious how
it was even to be started.

I couldn't find them online, so need to get more info on alignment.

RANGE; Cruise power of 1100 rpm is about 4 hours. Speed at that setting
should be a bit north of 4kts, but I haven't had the ability to cross check
against a knot meter, or GPS.

I chose this for a few reasons:

As much as I love diesel (I own a Jetta TDI) I love diesel and I don't think
short spurts are good for that engine type. So, I wanted a motor which can
run short bursts and this one does.

I chose a 10hp model as this suits a 15-20 bhp of a diesel and I only use my
engine for mooring and docking.  I'm also a bit hard core that way in that I
believe a sailor who can't dead stick a mooring ball or a finger dock
somewhere isn't a complete sailor, but each to his own.

The net engine/battery weight is 100 lbs less than the 15 hp Westerbeke 4-60
and fuel tank but from a weight and balance point of view less favourable
because the heavier batteries are where the tank was and the lighter engine
is where the engine was, so we'll be a bit tank heavy.  Not being a nautical
engineer, the calcs are a bit beyond me, but I expect to load the bow up
when sailing.

My wife bought into the less noise, and eventually less vibration and
definitely less smell and grime in exchange for hot showers which we didn't
have hooked up anyway.

Stuff remaining:

Balance the prop
Figure out my shore power/recharging
Enjoying quiet motoring in enclosed waterways

Cheers!

Alexander M. Giannelia
President

the airborne sensing corporation
555 Richmond Street West, Suite 912, PO Box 1008, Toronto, Ontario M5V 3B1,
Canada

Phone(416) 203-9858
Mobile(416) 529-0070
Fax  (416) 203-9843

*Notre site web est aussi disponible en fran?ais!
www.airsensing.com<http://www.airsensing.com/>

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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 14:15:32 + (UTC)
From: Chris Price via CnC-List  >
To: Don Newman  >,
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can an

Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[dwight via CnC-List]

The stern of the cape dorey is quite different and not as sleek as the lttle
Bluenose or the Roue 20, which is another possibility but the Roue 20 is 30
feet long

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

 

http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html


Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

99% sure that it is indeed a Cape Dory.
 
Dave
Saltaire
35 MKIII
 
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 11:54 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
 
That was my guess.
Ron
 

On Sun, 6/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
 wrote:
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
 To: "Eric Frank"   , "CnClist"
 
 Date: Sunday, June 1, 2014, 8:24 PM
 
 Has a Cape Dory 25 look
 but not 100% sure.
 
 Dennis C.
 
 
 On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at
 8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List  

 wrote:
 
 Just saw this lovely little
 sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 25 feet  long.  Can
anyone identify her class?  Two photos are  available on my dropbox - here
are the URLs.
 
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpghttps://www.dropbox.co
 
m/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
 
 
 Thanks, Eric
 Cat's Paw
 C&C
 35 Mk II
 Mattapoisett, MA
 
 
 
 
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[dwight via CnC-List]

Called jumpers

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: June 2, 2014 1:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

 

>From the overall hull shape and way the hull comes out of the water well
before the stern, the best match of all the responses was from Dwight, who
thought it might be a Bluenose sloop, first built in 1946.  Also note the
way the mast is stayed, with upper shrouds pushed forward (they must have a
correct name, but I don't know it). The later ones were fiberglass (built by
McVay - wouldn't you know, another Canadian classic design!) and most seem
to have little or no cabin, but some pictures do have small cabins, so
perhaps that was done to the boat I saw.  Here is a website describing them
if you care to match specs with the photos I posted:

 

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t

&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CEQQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fsailboatdata
.com%2Fviewrecord.asp%3Fclass_id%3D40&ei=m6eMU6vOKIbQsQSq9ICYDg&usg=AFQjCNEj
klU00OZvZhZ0-mdQ7ry3I7Lcpw&bvm=bv.67720277,d.cWc

 

Or just Google Bluenose sloop.

 

Here are my two photos (again) for comparison.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

 

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

Eric

 

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Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Just curious — does anyone, or know of anyone, who sealed up their 
centerboard and received a PHRF credit on their rating? I’m curious to know how 
much credit was given. I’ve been told it can be anywhere from 3-9 points. ‘

Mine is getting bolted in place and sealed up for good tomorrow. 

Long story, but now is the time. Read the Captain’s Log if you’re 
curious.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise (To be the world’s only shoal-draft C&C 37+)
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

ated, the outlet numbering per
>> phase will be different, but the results will be the same, the voltmeter
>> between outlets on the same phase will read 0 volts, on
>> different phases will read 208 volts (or thereabouts).
>> 
>> You want both legs of your "Y" combiner in the same phase, every time, for
>> this to work.
>> 
>> You will probably have an issue with helpful people unplugging one side of
>> your adapter and plugging it in to a different outlet, for whatever reason,
>> with nasty results.  You will have to come up with a way to prevent them
>> from doing this.
>> 
>> I hope my explanation is clear?
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>> 
>> On 2 June 2014 05:56, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> > Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden
>> > voyage under electric power.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load
>> > of dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in
>> > the water!
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Now, for a few notes as to how she performed
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > 1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don?t even know you are
>> > running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash
>> > swirls.
>> >
>> > 2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable
>> >
>> > 3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised
>> > was due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so
>> > long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.
>> >
>> > 4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no
>> > drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted
>> > until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while
>> > turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the
>> > temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly
>> > at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time
>> > number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the
>> > nut in this position and it ran fine.
>> >
>> > 5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks
>> > like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike
>> > the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
>> > y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A
>> > inlet cable, what does the list think?
>> >
>> > 6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to
>> > the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned
>> > vibration above 1000.
>> >
>> > 7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone
>> > of voice?.as if we were ghosting?.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Alex Giannelia
>> >
>> > CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
>> >
>> > TORONTO, Ontario
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ag@@airsensing.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> >
>> > Email address:
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> > page at:
>> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
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>> URL: 
>> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140602/8e34333e/attachment-0001.html>
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 09:14:26 -0400
>> From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
>> Message-ID:
>> <1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010dd27d4...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> 
>> Hi guys,
>> 
>> Here are some more tidbits.
>> 
>> The unit I chose was the Electric Yachts Inc system because another CC 35-II 
>> owner here in Toronto installed one in his in 2010 and I got a ride 

Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

er in the same phase, every 
time, for
  this to work.

  You will probably have an issue with helpful people unplugging one 
side of
  your adapter and plugging it in to a different outlet, for whatever 
reason,
  with nasty results.  You will have to come up with a way to prevent 
them
  from doing this.

  I hope my explanation is clear?

  Ken H.


  On 2 June 2014 05:56, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 

  wrote:

  > Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our 
maiden
  > voyage under electric power.
  >
  >
  >
  > Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the 
load
  > of dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we 
are in
  > the water!
  >
  >
  >
  > Now, for a few notes as to how she performed
  >
  >
  >
  > 1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don?t even know you 
are
  > running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop 
wash
  > swirls.
  >
  > 2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable
  >
  > 3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we 
surmised
  > was due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard 
for so
  > long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.
  >
  > 4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter 
than no
  > drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise 
noted
  > until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping 
while
  > turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the
  > temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  
Interestingly
  > at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, 
the time
  > number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then 
re-locked the
  > nut in this position and it ran fine.
  >
  > 5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it 
looks
  > like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside 
station, unlike
  > the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using 
a
  > y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into 
my 1 30A
  > inlet cable, what does the list think?
  >
  > 6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up 
to
  > the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned
  > vibration above 1000.
  >
  > 7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal 
tone
  > of voice?.as if we were ghosting?.
  >
  >
  >
  > Alex Giannelia
  >
  > CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
  >
  > TORONTO, Ontario
  >
  >
  >
  > ag@@airsensing.com
  >
  >
  >
  > ___
  > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
  >
  > Email address:
  > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go 
bottom of
  > page at:
  > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
  >
  >
  >
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  Message: 2
  Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 09:14:26 -0400
  From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
  Subject: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
  Message-ID:
  
<1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010dd27d4...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
  
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

  Hi guys,

  Here are some more tidbits.

  The unit I chose was the Electric Yachts Inc system because another 
CC 35-II owner here in Toronto installed one in his in 2010 and I got a ride on 
the boat in 2012 and was impressed.

  Opposed to all other boat items, I chose a professional installer who 
did a bang up job.

  He also left me the installation and start up instructions, which I 
somehow misplaced on the second last day on the hard, so I was somewhat anxious 
how

Re: Stus-List C&C Flush Mount Through Hulls

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Groco makes flush mounts.  By extra large do you mean the flange or the
pipe size?

Joel


On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>   Has anyone found a source for the ‘extra large diameter’ flush-mount
> through hulls used on C&C’s (a 79 C&C 27 Mk III to be exact)?
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> C&C 27 MkIII
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List C&C Flush Mount Through Hulls

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Has anyone found a source for the ‘extra large diameter’ flush-mount through 
hulls used on C&C’s (a 79 C&C 27 Mk III to be exact)?

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII___
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 6

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

#1 suspect is...water heaters..

Joe Della Barba

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 3:55 PM
To: Michael Brown; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 6

Keep in mind the corrosion that's common on our older boats, 20 ohms might not 
be out of the realm of possibility...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 2, 2014, at 2:50 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


A normal measurement if neutral and
ground were connected together even with a 50' boat cord set would be more like
0.5 ohms.

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 6

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Keep in mind the corrosion that’s common on our older boats, 20 ohms might not 
be out of the realm of possibility...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 2, 2014, at 2:50 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List  
wrote:

> A normal measurement if neutral and
> ground were connected together even with a 50' boat cord set would be more 
> like
> 0.5 ohms.

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 6

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Does seem strange. If ground and neutral were bonded together on the boat
I would anticipate a much lower resistance reading. Even 18 gauge wire, which
is light duty, has about 1 ohm per 100 feet. A normal measurement if neutral and
ground were connected together even with a 50' boat cord set would be more like
0.5 ohms.

It is possible that something is wired from hot to ground rather than hot to 
neutral,
but 20 ohms would be about a 750 watt load. Is there a heater on, maybe a hot
water heater or something like that?

I would take the fellows offer and see what is wrong.

Mike


Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2014 11:46:55 -0700 
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List AC wiring 
Message-ID: 
     <201406021846.s52ikz9e021...@jax4mhob01.myregisteredsite.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" 
 
I received the following email from our club regarding our AC  
electric.  Any C&C listers able to elucidate as to what this means  
and what you would anticipate it will take to correct? 
 
>Tom, 
> 
>I have been doing electrical tests on new boats in QYC docks  
>recently. In reviewing the records of previously tested boats I  
>noticed an anomoly in the recorded results of one of the tests that  
>was done on Alera. Apparently, I overlooked or ignored this when I  
>tested Alera. 
> 
>One of the measurements recorded indicates a very low resistance (20  
>ohms) from your AC plug neutral wire to the AC plug ground wire. All  
>the other measurements were high resistance and OK. This low  
>resistance would indicate that your boat's AC system has the neutral  
>wire connected to AC ground somewhere. While this is normal in home  
>wiring it is not standard on boats. It creates a shock hazard. It is  
>against ABYC standards for small boat 120 VAC, 30 A systems. 
> 
>I highly recommend that you have this looked into and corrected. I  
>would be happy to help you checking this out if you want to deal  
>with it yourself. 
> 
>J 
 
thx 
 
Tom Buscaglia 
SV Alera 
C&C 37+/40 
Vashon Island WA 
(206) 463-9200 
www.sv-alera.com 
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Re: Stus-List AC wiring

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

120 volt AC systems have 3 wires: black, white, and green. These are connected 
to a system on shore where the 120 volt hot wire is black, the neutral wire is 
white, and the ground wire is green. At some point ON SHORE the neutral and 
ground bus wires are tied together. NO PLACE on a BOAT should these systems 
interconnect!
Possible reasons:
Someone switched the green and white connections wiring something.
Wet connections with salt water bridging the white and green sides.
Equipment somewhere is defective allowing an interconnection.

Turning breakers off and on usually won't find these because the breakers do 
not interrupt the white wire. This is an area that you really need to pay a 
good electrician for if you don't know exactly what you are doing. I was once 
badly shocked by an air conditioning pump with swapped green and white wires 
while standing ON THE DOCK. The pump started and pissed on my leg with 120 volt 
water!

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 2:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List AC wiring

I received the following email from our club regarding our AC electric.  Any 
C&C listers able to elucidate as to what this means and what you would 
anticipate it will take to correct?


Tom,

I have been doing electrical tests on new boats in QYC docks recently. In 
reviewing the records of previously tested boats I noticed an anomoly in the 
recorded results of one of the tests that was done on Alera. Apparently, I 
overlooked or ignored this when I tested Alera.

One of the measurements recorded indicates a very low resistance (20 ohms) from 
your AC plug neutral wire to the AC plug ground wire. All the other 
measurements were high resistance and OK. This low resistance would indicate 
that your boat's AC system has the neutral wire connected to AC ground 
somewhere. While this is normal in home wiring it is not standard on boats. It 
creates a shock hazard. It is against ABYC standards for small boat 120 VAC, 30 
A systems.

I highly recommend that you have this looked into and corrected. I would be 
happy to help you checking this out if you want to deal with it yourself.

J

thx


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

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Re: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

gt;
> > Now, for a few notes as to how she performed
> >
> >
> >
> > 1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don?t even know you are
> > running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash
> > swirls.
> >
> > 2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable
> >
> > 3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised
> > was due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for
> so
> > long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.
> >
> > 4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no
> > drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted
> > until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while
> > turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the
> > temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.
> Interestingly
> > at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time
> > number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the
> > nut in this position and it ran fine.
> >
> > 5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks
> > like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station,
> unlike
> > the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
> > y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1
> 30A
> > inlet cable, what does the list think?
> >
> > 6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to
> > the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned
> > vibration above 1000.
> >
> > 7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone
> > of voice?.as if we were ghosting?.
> >
> >
> >
> > Alex Giannelia
> >
> > CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
> >
> > TORONTO, Ontario
> >
> >
> >
> > ag@@airsensing.com
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> > page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> >
> -- next part --
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> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140602/8e34333e/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 09:14:26 -0400
> From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
> Message-ID:
> <
> 1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010dd27d4...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Here are some more tidbits.
>
> The unit I chose was the Electric Yachts Inc system because another CC
> 35-II owner here in Toronto installed one in his in 2010 and I got a ride
> on the boat in 2012 and was impressed.
>
> Opposed to all other boat items, I chose a professional installer who did
> a bang up job.
>
> He also left me the installation and start up instructions, which I
> somehow misplaced on the second last day on the hard, so I was somewhat
> anxious how it was even to be started.
>
> I couldn't find them online, so need to get more info on alignment.
>
> RANGE; Cruise power of 1100 rpm is about 4 hours. Speed at that setting
> should be a bit north of 4kts, but I haven't had the ability to cross check
> against a knot meter, or GPS.
>
> I chose this for a few reasons:
>
> As much as I love diesel (I own a Jetta TDI) I love diesel and I don't
> think short spurts are good for that engine type. So, I wanted a motor
> which can run short bursts and this one does.
>
> I chose a 10hp model as this suits a 15-20 bhp of a diesel and I only use
> my engine for mooring and docking.  I'm also a bit hard core that way in
> that I believe a sailor who can't dead stick a mooring ball or a finger
> dock somewhere isn't a complete sailor, but each to his own.
>
> The net engine/battery weight is 100 lbs less than the 15 hp Westerbeke
> 4-60 and fuel tank but from a weight and balance point of view less
> favourable because the heavier batteries are where the tank was and the
> lighter engine is where the engine was, so we'll be a bit tank heavy.  Not
> being a nautical engineer, the ca

Re: Stus-List AC wiring

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Tom — this means that the ground (green wire) and neutral (white wire) are tied 
together somewhere in your AC system.  You’ll need to trace the wiring 
throughout the AC system and see if they’ve been tied together somewhere.  You 
can try disconnecting AC-powered gear (shorepower charger, water heater, etc) 
completely and rechecking the resistance between the green and white wires of 
the system to see if anything changes.  Obviously, you’ll want to disconnect 
from shorepower first (!), and make sure any inverter you might have onboard is 
completely disconnected from the DC system first.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jun 2, 2014, at 1:46 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I received the following email from our club regarding our AC electric.  Any 
> C&C listers able to elucidate as to what this means and what you would 
> anticipate it will take to correct?
> 
>> Tom,
>>  
>> I have been doing electrical tests on new boats in QYC docks recently. In 
>> reviewing the records of previously tested boats I noticed an anomoly in the 
>> recorded results of one of the tests that was done on Alera. Apparently, I 
>> overlooked or ignored this when I tested Alera. 
>>  
>> One of the measurements recorded indicates a very low resistance (20 ohms) 
>> from your AC plug neutral wire to the AC plug ground wire. All the other 
>> measurements were high resistance and OK. This low resistance would indicate 
>> that your boat's AC system has the neutral wire connected to AC ground 
>> somewhere. While this is normal in home wiring it is not standard on boats. 
>> It creates a shock hazard. It is against ABYC standards for small boat 120 
>> VAC, 30 A systems.
>>  
>> I highly recommend that you have this looked into and corrected. I would be 
>> happy to help you checking this out if you want to deal with it yourself.
>>  
>> J
> 
> thx
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 5

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Is there an echo in here?

At 11:43 AM 6/2/2014, you wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1.  LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions (wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List)
   2.  LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions (wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List)
   3.  LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions (wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List)
   4.  LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions (wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List)
   5.  LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions (wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 11:37:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: "wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions
Message-ID:

<1401734225.34521.yahoomailandroidmob...@web120101.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all,? I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some 
new mast wedges for my LF 38.? What is the approximate gap between 
the mast and the collar??? Thanks


Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 11:37:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: "wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions
Message-ID:

<1401734278.80286.yahoomailandroidmob...@web120105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all,? I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some 
new mast wedges for my LF 38.? What is the approximate gap between 
the mast and the collar??? Thanks


Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 11:38:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: "wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions
Message-ID:

<1401734336.37877.yahoomailandroidmob...@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all,? I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some 
new mast wedges for my LF 38.? What is the approximate gap between 
the mast and the collar??? Thanks


Mike LF 38 Interlude

-- next part --
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 11:39:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: "wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions
Message-ID:

<1401734369.59141.yahoomailandroidmob...@web120102.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all,? I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some 
new mast wedges for my LF 38.? What is the approximate gap between 
the mast and the collar??? Thanks


Mike LF 38 Interlude

-- next part --
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 11:40:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: "wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions
Message-ID:

<1401734422.45510.yahoomailandroidmob...@web120101.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi all,? I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some 
new mast wedges for my LF 38.? What is the approximate gap between 
the mast and the collar??? Thanks


Mike LF 38 Interlude

-- next part --
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Subject: Digest Footer

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Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List]

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Stus-List AC wiring

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I received the following email from our club regarding our AC 
electric.  Any C&C listers able to elucidate as to what this means 
and what you would anticipate it will take to correct?



Tom,

I have been doing electrical tests on new boats in QYC docks 
recently. In reviewing the records of previously tested boats I 
noticed an anomoly in the recorded results of one of the tests that 
was done on Alera. Apparently, I overlooked or ignored this when I 
tested Alera.


One of the measurements recorded indicates a very low resistance (20 
ohms) from your AC plug neutral wire to the AC plug ground wire. All 
the other measurements were high resistance and OK. This low 
resistance would indicate that your boat's AC system has the neutral 
wire connected to AC ground somewhere. While this is normal in home 
wiring it is not standard on boats. It creates a shock hazard. It is 
against ABYC standards for small boat 120 VAC, 30 A systems.


I highly recommend that you have this looked into and corrected. I 
would be happy to help you checking this out if you want to deal 
with it yourself.


J


thx

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List]

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List]

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

___
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Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List]

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List]

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List]

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List]

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Stus-List LF 38 Mast Wedge Dimensions

[wiscomik...@yahoo.com via CnC-List]

Hi all,  I'm launching this Friday (finally) and need to cut some new mast 
wedges for my LF 38.  What is the approximate gap between the mast and the 
collar?   Thanks

Mike LF 38 Interlude

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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html


Bill Bina
On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

99% sure that it is indeed a Cape Dory.

Dave
Saltaire
35 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 11:54 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

That was my guess.
Ron


On Sun, 6/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
  To: "Eric Frank" , "CnClist" 
  Date: Sunday, June 1, 2014, 8:24 PM
  
  Has a Cape Dory 25 look

  but not 100% sure.
  
  Dennis C.
  
  
  On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at

  8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  
  Just saw this lovely little

  sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 25 feet  long.  Can
anyone identify her class?  Two photos are  available on my dropbox - here
are the URLs.
  
  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpghttps://www.dropbox.co

m/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
  
  
  Thanks, Eric

  Cat's Paw
  C&C
  35 Mk II
  Mattapoisett, MA
  
  
  
  
  


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Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I would strongly suggest a real 30 amp shore power outlet.
Back in the day I might have been the person tripping the breaker and working 
on the wiring when this Y-thing gets plugged in.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 12:56 PM
To: kenhea...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

Alex,

add one more gotcha to this setup.

When you Y-connect the two outlets, you are effectively, back feeding the power 
from one outlet to the other. If, by any chance, one breaker trips, you would 
be providing power through your Y-connection back to that tripped circuit. It 
would be even worse (more dangerous) if that breaker was not tripped, but 
switched off (e.g. to do some work on that circuit). In normal situation, such 
breakers would have to be ganged together.

You might use something like this at home (or cottage), but in a Club setting, 
where you have very little control over the entire set-up, you may not want to 
risk it.

Marek

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 8:25 AM
To: Alex Giannelia ; 
cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

Hi Alex,

5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like the 
15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike the power 
supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a y-splitter to 
provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A inlet cable, what 
does the list think?

Be very careful when you do this.  It can work but can also be dangerous.

Single phase electrical services have two different hots in 180 degree opposite 
phase to each other.  Generally, half the outlets in the marina will be on one 
phase and the other half on the opposite phase.  If you end up with your "Y" 
combiner on opposite phases there will be a very big bang before the breaker 
trips as you will effectively dead short the two hot phases of the system 
together.  Generally all the odd numbered circuits will be on one phase and the 
even on the opposite but this isn't always true, especially if it is a small 
panel.

You will have to test this test this by using an AC voltmeter that is rated for 
at least 250 volts AC to measure the voltage between the two outlets you want 
to share, measuring between the two hots (the small flat opening, the larger 
flat one is the neutral and the "D" or 'U" shaped one is the safety ground).  
If they are on the same phase the meter will read 0 volts and you can use those 
two outlets.  If they are on opposite phases the meter will read 240 volts (or 
so) and you can't use those, you will have to keep testing until you find a 
pair on the same phase.  They probably won't be next to each other as it is 
usual for adjacent outlets to be on opposite phases.

Three phase services are a bit more complicated, the outlet numbering per phase 
will be different, but the results will be the same, the voltmeter between 
outlets on the same phase will read 0 volts, on different phases will read 208 
volts (or thereabouts).

You want both legs of your "Y" combiner in the same phase, every time, for this 
to work.

You will probably have an issue with helpful people unplugging one side of your 
adapter and plugging it in to a different outlet, for whatever reason, with 
nasty results.  You will have to come up with a way to prevent them from doing 
this.

I hope my explanation is clear?

Ken H.

On 2 June 2014 05:56, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden 
voyage under electric power.

Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load of 
dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in the 
water!

Now, for a few notes as to how she performed


1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don’t even know you are running 
the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash swirls.

2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable

3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised was due 
to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so long, so we 
will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.

4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no drips 
when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted until about 
20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while turning, I then 
slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the temperature rise stopped 
and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly at the controls which shows 
time to discharge, after I did this, the time number went up, reflecting the 
loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the nut in this position and it r

Re: Stus-List Inboard drive question

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

With a folding prop on a 30, you will get vibration. I'm assuming you have a 
two cylinder diesel? The prop is offset both vertically and horizontally - 
so it is not operating evenly.


But, I don't have any wobble in the shaft - that doesn't sound right at all.

Gary
also 30-1
- Original Message - 
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 1:37 PM
Subject: Stus-List Inboard drive question




Spent all day Sunday working on the boat - cleaning up the coolant mess, 
installing cabin cushions, putting everything away.


Went for a short buzz out of the cove (now have boat at a dock in Deep 
Cove, Mahone Bay, to see how the sailing is).  My tach is not working 
(another job) - so I don't have specific details - but there seems to be a 
lot of vibration when I start increasing the throttle.
Moving along slowly (~3kts) there is some vibration, but not bad. But 
above 1/2 (I'm totally guessing because I've not had the guts to drive it 
up to full throttle yet) more vibration.  at 5.5kts it feels like a lot to 
me.
I did climb down earlier and look at the shaft spinning - I can see it 
oscillating maybe 1/2 inch.  Is that normal?  A problem with the prop 
(Martec folding prop - original as far as I know -- didn't see excessively 
loose when I had the boat on the hard)? Or maybe a problem with the prop 
shaft?

I'd rather not kill the season pulling the prop shaft out now.

Any thoughts?

Mark

CS 30 Prosecco

--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Inboard drive question

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Mark,

That is excessive.  Prop, cutlass bearing or alignment.
Did you check cutlass on the hard?

Joel


On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 1:37 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Spent all day Sunday working on the boat - cleaning up the coolant mess,
> installing cabin cushions, putting everything away.
>
> Went for a short buzz out of the cove (now have boat at a dock in Deep
> Cove, Mahone Bay, to see how the sailing is).  My tach is not working
> (another job) - so I don't have specific details - but there seems to be a
> lot of vibration when I start increasing the throttle.
> Moving along slowly (~3kts) there is some vibration, but not bad. But
> above 1/2 (I'm totally guessing because I've not had the guts to drive it
> up to full throttle yet) more vibration.  at 5.5kts it feels like a lot to
> me.
> I did climb down earlier and look at the shaft spinning - I can see it
> oscillating maybe 1/2 inch.  Is that normal?  A problem with the prop
> (Martec folding prop - original as far as I know -- didn't see excessively
> loose when I had the boat on the hard)? Or maybe a problem with the prop
> shaft?
> I'd rather not kill the season pulling the prop shaft out now.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Mark
>
> CS 30 Prosecco
>
> --
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> page at:
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Inboard drive question

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Spent all day Sunday working on the boat - cleaning up the coolant mess, 
installing cabin cushions, putting everything away.


Went for a short buzz out of the cove (now have boat at a dock in Deep 
Cove, Mahone Bay, to see how the sailing is).  My tach is not working 
(another job) - so I don't have specific details - but there seems to be 
a lot of vibration when I start increasing the throttle.
Moving along slowly (~3kts) there is some vibration, but not bad. But 
above 1/2 (I'm totally guessing because I've not had the guts to drive 
it up to full throttle yet) more vibration.  at 5.5kts it feels like a 
lot to me.
I did climb down earlier and look at the shaft spinning - I can see it 
oscillating maybe 1/2 inch.  Is that normal?  A problem with the prop 
(Martec folding prop - original as far as I know -- didn't see 
excessively loose when I had the boat on the hard)? Or maybe a problem 
with the prop shaft?

I'd rather not kill the season pulling the prop shaft out now.

Any thoughts?

Mark

CS 30 Prosecco

--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Too bad the cove stripe is so blurred. That would provide a definitive 
answer.


Bill Bina

On 6/2/2014 1:08 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:

99% sure that it is indeed a Cape Dory.

Dave
Saltaire
35 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 11:54 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

That was my guess.
Ron


On Sun, 6/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
  To: "Eric Frank" , "CnClist" 
  Date: Sunday, June 1, 2014, 8:24 PM
  
  Has a Cape Dory 25 look

  but not 100% sure.
  
  Dennis C.
  
  
  On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at

  8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  
  Just saw this lovely little

  sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 25 feet  long.  Can
anyone identify her class?  Two photos are  available on my dropbox - here
are the URLs.
  
  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpghttps://www.dropbox.co

m/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
  
  
  Thanks, Eric

  Cat's Paw
  C&C
  35 Mk II
  Mattapoisett, MA
  
  
  
  


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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[David Jacobs via CnC-List]

99% sure that it is indeed a Cape Dory.

Dave
Saltaire
35 MKIII

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 11:54 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

That was my guess.
Ron


On Sun, 6/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
 To: "Eric Frank" , "CnClist" 
 Date: Sunday, June 1, 2014, 8:24 PM
 
 Has a Cape Dory 25 look
 but not 100% sure.
 
 Dennis C.
 
 
 On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at
 8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Just saw this lovely little
 sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 25 feet  long.  Can
anyone identify her class?  Two photos are  available on my dropbox - here
are the URLs.
 
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpghttps://www.dropbox.co
m/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
 
 
 Thanks, Eric
 Cat's Paw
 C&C
 35 Mk II
 Mattapoisett, MA
 
 
 
 
 
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 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
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 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

>From the overall hull shape and way the hull comes out of the water well 
>before the stern, the best match of all the responses was from Dwight, who 
>thought it might be a Bluenose sloop, first built in 1946.  Also note the way 
>the mast is stayed, with upper shrouds pushed forward (they must have a 
>correct name, but I don't know it). The later ones were fiberglass (built by 
>McVay - wouldn't you know, another Canadian classic design!) and most seem to 
>have little or no cabin, but some pictures do have small cabins, so perhaps 
>that was done to the boat I saw.  Here is a website describing them if you 
>care to match specs with the photos I posted:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CEQQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fsailboatdata.com%2Fviewrecord.asp%3Fclass_id%3D40&ei=m6eMU6vOKIbQsQSq9ICYDg&usg=AFQjCNEjklU00OZvZhZ0-mdQ7ry3I7Lcpw&bvm=bv.67720277,d.cWc

Or just Google Bluenose sloop.

Here are my two photos (again) for comparison.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Eric

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Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Alex,

add one more gotcha to this setup. 

When you Y-connect the two outlets, you are effectively, back feeding the power 
from one outlet to the other. If, by any chance, one breaker trips, you would 
be providing power through your Y-connection back to that tripped circuit. It 
would be even worse (more dangerous) if that breaker was not tripped, but 
switched off (e.g. to do some work on that circuit). In normal situation, such 
breakers would have to be ganged together.

You might use something like this at home (or cottage), but in a Club setting, 
where you have very little control over the entire set-up, you may not want to 
risk it.

Marek

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 8:25 AM
To: Alex Giannelia ; cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

Hi Alex, 


5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like the 
15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike the power 
supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a y-splitter to 
provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A inlet cable, what 
does the list think?



Be very careful when you do this.  It can work but can also be dangerous.


Single phase electrical services have two different hots in 180 degree opposite 
phase to each other.  Generally, half the outlets in the marina will be on one 
phase and the other half on the opposite phase.  If you end up with your "Y" 
combiner on opposite phases there will be a very big bang before the breaker 
trips as you will effectively dead short the two hot phases of the system 
together.  Generally all the odd numbered circuits will be on one phase and the 
even on the opposite but this isn't always true, especially if it is a small 
panel.


You will have to test this test this by using an AC voltmeter that is rated for 
at least 250 volts AC to measure the voltage between the two outlets you want 
to share, measuring between the two hots (the small flat opening, the larger 
flat one is the neutral and the "D" or 'U" shaped one is the safety ground).  
If they are on the same phase the meter will read 0 volts and you can use those 
two outlets.  If they are on opposite phases the meter will read 240 volts (or 
so) and you can't use those, you will have to keep testing until you find a 
pair on the same phase.  They probably won't be next to each other as it is 
usual for adjacent outlets to be on opposite phases.


Three phase services are a bit more complicated, the outlet numbering per phase 
will be different, but the results will be the same, the voltmeter between 
outlets on the same phase will read 0 volts, on different phases will read 208 
volts (or thereabouts).


You want both legs of your "Y" combiner in the same phase, every time, for this 
to work.


You will probably have an issue with helpful people unplugging one side of your 
adapter and plugging it in to a different outlet, for whatever reason, with 
nasty results.  You will have to come up with a way to prevent them from doing 
this.


I hope my explanation is clear?


Ken H.



On 2 June 2014 05:56, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List  wrote:

  Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden 
voyage under electric power.



  Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load of 
dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in the 
water!



  Now, for a few notes as to how she performed



  1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don’t even know you are 
running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash swirls.

  2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable

  3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised was 
due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so long, so 
we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.

  4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no 
drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted until 
about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while turning, I 
then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the temperature rise 
stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly at the controls which 
shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time number went up, reflecting 
the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the nut in this position and it ran 
fine.

  5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like 
the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike the 
power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a y-splitter to 
provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A inlet cable, what 
does the list think?

  6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to the 
full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned vibration above 
1000.

  7)  Cockpit conv

Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I was thinking Kittiwake 23. too much overhang aft for the CD, I thought.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine


On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 11:53 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That was my guess.
> Ron
>
> 
> On Sun, 6/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
>  To: "Eric Frank" , "CnClist" 
>  Date: Sunday, June 1, 2014, 8:24 PM
>
>  Has a Cape Dory 25 look
>  but not 100% sure.
>
>  Dennis C.
>
>
>  On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at
>  8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>
>  Just saw this lovely little
>  sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 25 feet
>  long.  Can anyone identify her class?  Two photos are
>  available on my dropbox - here are the URLs.
>
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpghttps://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
>
>
>  Thanks, Eric
>  Cat's Paw
>  C&C
>  35 Mk II
>  Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>  -Inline Attachment Follows-
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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

That was my guess.
Ron


On Sun, 6/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?
 To: "Eric Frank" , "CnClist" 
 Date: Sunday, June 1, 2014, 8:24 PM
 
 Has a Cape Dory 25 look
 but not 100% sure.
 
 Dennis C.
 
 
 On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at
 8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Just saw this lovely little
 sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.  About 25 feet
 long.  Can anyone identify her class?  Two photos are
 available on my dropbox - here are the URLs.
 
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpghttps://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
 
 
 Thanks, Eric
 Cat's Paw
 C&C
 35 Mk II
 Mattapoisett, MA
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Chris Price via CnC-List]

Not a Folk boat 

Chris Price 

- Original Message -

From: "Don Newman via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 7:55:24 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat? 

I think she is the same as one that was in the next slip to me for years. 
It was a Folk boat hull with Alberg cabin. I don't know who made them or how 
many were made but I will ask the owners when I see them. 


Don Newman 

> 

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Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

Hi guys,

Here are some more tidbits.

The unit I chose was the Electric Yachts Inc system because another CC 35-II 
owner here in Toronto installed one in his in 2010 and I got a ride on the boat 
in 2012 and was impressed.

Opposed to all other boat items, I chose a professional installer who did a 
bang up job.

He also left me the installation and start up instructions, which I somehow 
misplaced on the second last day on the hard, so I was somewhat anxious how it 
was even to be started.

I couldn't find them online, so need to get more info on alignment.

RANGE; Cruise power of 1100 rpm is about 4 hours. Speed at that setting should 
be a bit north of 4kts, but I haven't had the ability to cross check against a 
knot meter, or GPS.

I chose this for a few reasons:

As much as I love diesel (I own a Jetta TDI) I love diesel and I don't think 
short spurts are good for that engine type. So, I wanted a motor which can run 
short bursts and this one does.

I chose a 10hp model as this suits a 15-20 bhp of a diesel and I only use my 
engine for mooring and docking.  I'm also a bit hard core that way in that I 
believe a sailor who can't dead stick a mooring ball or a finger dock somewhere 
isn't a complete sailor, but each to his own.

The net engine/battery weight is 100 lbs less than the 15 hp Westerbeke 4-60 
and fuel tank but from a weight and balance point of view less favourable 
because the heavier batteries are where the tank was and the lighter engine is 
where the engine was, so we'll be a bit tank heavy.  Not being a nautical 
engineer, the calcs are a bit beyond me, but I expect to load the bow up when 
sailing.

My wife bought into the less noise, and eventually less vibration and 
definitely less smell and grime in exchange for hot showers which we didn't 
have hooked up anyway.

Stuff remaining:

Balance the prop
Figure out my shore power/recharging
Enjoying quiet motoring in enclosed waterways

Cheers!

Alexander M. Giannelia
President

the airborne sensing corporation
555 Richmond Street West, Suite 912, PO Box 1008, Toronto, Ontario M5V 3B1, 
Canada

Phone(416) 203-9858
Mobile(416) 529-0070
Fax  (416) 203-9843

*Notre site web est aussi disponible en français! 
www.airsensing.com

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Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Alex,

5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like
the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike the
power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A
inlet cable, what does the list think?

Be very careful when you do this.  It can work but can also be dangerous.

Single phase electrical services have two different hots in 180 degree
opposite phase to each other.  Generally, half the outlets in the marina
will be on one phase and the other half on the opposite phase.  If you end
up with your "Y" combiner on opposite phases there will be a very big bang
before the breaker trips as you will effectively dead short the two
hot phases of the system together.  Generally all the odd
numbered circuits will be on one phase and the even on the opposite
but this isn't always true, especially if it is a small panel.

You will have to test this test this by using an AC voltmeter that is rated
for at least 250 volts AC to measure the voltage between the two outlets
you want to share, measuring between the two hots (the small flat opening,
the larger flat one is the neutral and the "D" or 'U" shaped one is the
safety ground).  If they are on the same phase the meter will read 0 volts
and you can use those two outlets.  If they are on opposite phases the
meter will read 240 volts (or so) and you can't use those, you will have to
keep testing until you find a pair on the same phase.  They probably won't
be next to each other as it is usual for adjacent outlets to be on opposite
phases.

Three phase services are a bit more complicated, the outlet numbering per
phase will be different, but the results will be the same, the voltmeter
between outlets on the same phase will read 0 volts, on
different phases will read 208 volts (or thereabouts).

You want both legs of your "Y" combiner in the same phase, every time, for
this to work.

You will probably have an issue with helpful people unplugging one side of
your adapter and plugging it in to a different outlet, for whatever reason,
with nasty results.  You will have to come up with a way to prevent them
from doing this.

I hope my explanation is clear?

Ken H.


On 2 June 2014 05:56, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden
> voyage under electric power.
>
>
>
> Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load
> of dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in
> the water!
>
>
>
> Now, for a few notes as to how she performed
>
>
>
> 1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don’t even know you are
> running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash
> swirls.
>
> 2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable
>
> 3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised
> was due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so
> long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.
>
> 4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no
> drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted
> until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while
> turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the
> temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly
> at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time
> number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the
> nut in this position and it ran fine.
>
> 5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks
> like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike
> the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
> y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A
> inlet cable, what does the list think?
>
> 6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to
> the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned
> vibration above 1000.
>
> 7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone
> of voice….as if we were ghosting….
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
>
> TORONTO, Ontario
>
>
>
> ag@@airsensing.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Wow!!  Congratulations!  that electric motor sounds awesome!DannyLolita1973 
Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 04:56:14 -0400


Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden 
voyage under electric power.
 
Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load of 
dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in the 
water!
 
Now, for a few notes as to how she performed
 
1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you 
don’t even know you are running the engine, until you look out the back 
and see the prop wash swirls.
2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable
3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some 
vibration which we surmised was due to imperfect alignment related as well to 
being on the hard for so long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this 
goes away.
4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the 
dock to just tighter than no drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no 
temperature rise noted until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water 
dripping while turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and 
the temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly 
at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time 
number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the nut in 
this position and it ran fine.
5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a 
challenge because it looks like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my 
dockside station, unlike the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer 
recommended using a y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets 
combining into my 1 30A inlet cable, what does the list think?
6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, 
backed up nicely, got up to the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the 
aforementioned vibration above 1000.
7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power 
were held in a normal tone of voice….as if we were ghosting….
 
Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario
 
ag@@airsensing.com
 
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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Don Newman via CnC-List]

I think she is the same as one that was in the next slip to me for years. 
It was a Folk boat hull with Alberg cabin. I don't know who made them or how 
many were made but I will ask the owners when I see them. 


Don Newman

> 

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Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Congrats on your successful re-launch!

Now you have to change your sig line though...  and what is her new name?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2014-06-02 5:56 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote:


Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our 
maiden voyage under electric power.


Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the 
load of dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least 
we are in the water!


Now, for a few notes as to how she performed

1)So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don't even know you are 
running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash 
swirls.


2)Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable

3)Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised was 
due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so 
long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.


4)The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no 
drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise 
noted until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping 
while turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and 
the temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  
Interestingly at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I 
did this, the time number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  
I then re-locked the nut in this position and it ran fine.


5)Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like 
the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike 
the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a 
y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 
30A inlet cable, what does the list think?


6)With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to the 
full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned 
vibration above 1000.


7)Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone of 
voiceas if we were ghosting


Alex Giannelia

CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed

TORONTO, Ontario

ag@@airsensing.com



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Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Alex,
 Very cool!  What electric drive did you install, and what kind of run
time / range are you getting?  I recently bought a Chevy Volt so electric
drives interest me.

Regards,
Gary
S/V Expresso
'75 C&C 35 Mk II
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~



On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 4:56 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden
> voyage under electric power.
>
>
>
> Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load
> of dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in
> the water!
>
>
>
> Now, for a few notes as to how she performed
>
>
>
> 1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don’t even know you are
> running the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash
> swirls.
>
> 2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable
>
> 3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised
> was due to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so
> long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.
>
> 4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no
> drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted
> until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while
> turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the
> temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly
> at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time
> number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the
> nut in this position and it ran fine.
>
> 5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks
> like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike
> the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a
> y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A
> inlet cable, what does the list think?
>
> 6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to
> the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned
> vibration above 1000.
>
> 7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone
> of voice….as if we were ghosting….
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
>
> TORONTO, Ontario
>
>
>
> ag@@airsensing.com
>
>
>
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>
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>
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Stus-List 1. Stuffing box (David Knecht via CnC-List)

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

David,

See my post about my launch.  Yes, loosen while under way, if you can do that 
safely and wait for a drip to appear while prop is spinning.  Don Casey 
recommends one drip every 30 seconds. The box temperature is a good guide to 
prevent over tightening.

Because I installed a new stuffing box with new packing, I had it as loose as 
possible for about 15 minutes while at dockside to let water absorb into the 
flax, then I tightened it slowly till the drips stopped.

I re-adjusted underway.

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario

ag@@airsensing.com
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of via CnC-List
Sent: June-01-14 8:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 1

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Today's Topics:

   1.  Stuffing box (David Knecht via CnC-List)
   
   4. Re:  Stuffing box (Jack Brennan via CnC-List)
   5. Re:  Stuffing box (Gore-Tex packing) (Wally Bryant via CnC-List)
   

--

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 14:45:22 -0400
From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box
Message-ID: <099071d6-348b-4866-b1ce-d8d56284a...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Splashing and first motor/sail is always such an interesting (read frustrating) 
time.  Aries splashed on Friday and I moved it to its summer mooring yesterday. 
 I would some year like to make this trip with no issues, but so far it has 
never happened.  

1.  The autopilot circuit breaker popped every time I tried to activate it, so 
that is a project for the future.  I presume something is frozen preventing the 
motor from turning the gear, although how that would happen sitting under a 
cover for a few months would happen is mysterious to me.  I will disassemble 
(again) and try to fix it.

2.  I tried to install the new Tides Marine track system on  my mast.  The test 
piece of track went in smoothly, so the size is right.  But when I tried to 
install the actual track, the welded boom attachment fitting prevented a smooth 
entry of the track into the slot and I was unable to get it to slide in at all. 
 Has anyone faced this problem and solved it?

3.  The question I expect someone can answer is about the stuffing box.  I 
repacked it with Gore packing and then hand tightened the collar while the boat 
was on the hard.  When launched, I saw no dripping at all at the dock.  After 
running for about 30 minutes there was still no dripping while motoring and the 
coupling was quite hot.  How hot would this get if adjusted correctly?  Should 
I loosen the coupling until it drips a bit while running?  


David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2014 12:04:34 -0700
From: Paul Baker via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box
Message-ID: <538b7942.8080...@shaw.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

Should have something like 3 drops per minute when under way and the coupling 
should be at ambient temperature with that level of dripping.
Cheers,
Paul.


Message: 3
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 14:12:37 -0500
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
To: 
Subject: Stus-List 2012 Annapolis Bermuda Race C&C 37
Message-ID: <00a901cf7dcd$73bcbb70$5b363250$@shelqu...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


I?ve used Goretex packing for about four years. I get a very occasional drip, 
and the packing box is cool to the touch after hours of running.

I suspect that means yours is too tight. 

There?s lots of advice about Goretex on the web. The ones I read said that if 
the packing nut is too tight, you have to repack because the Goretex won?t 
expand out. I sop[pose it wouldn?t hurt to try, though, before packing.

The good news is that once you get it right, you shouldn?t have to touch it for 
many years. It has been about three years since I had the hose chang

Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[dwight via CnC-List]

She has similar lins to and is rigged like a little Bluenose, the small
cabin is not usual for the class but could have been added on quite easily

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric
Frank via CnC-List
Sent: June 1, 2014 10:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

 

Just saw this lovely little sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.
About 25 feet long.  Can anyone identify her class?  Two photos are
available on my dropbox - here are the URLs.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg

 

Thanks, Eric


Cat's Paw

C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 

 

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Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden 
voyage under electric power.

Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load of 
dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in the 
water!

Now, for a few notes as to how she performed


1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you don't even know you are running 
the engine, until you look out the back and see the prop wash swirls.

2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable

3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some vibration which we surmised was due 
to imperfect alignment related as well to being on the hard for so long, so we 
will re-align in a week etc. till this goes away.

4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the dock to just tighter than no drips 
when not turning.  Under power, initially no temperature rise noted until about 
20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water dripping while turning, I then 
slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and the temperature rise stopped 
and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly at the controls which shows 
time to discharge, after I did this, the time number went up, reflecting the 
loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the nut in this position and it ran fine.

5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a challenge because it looks like the 
15A it needs is not being delivered at my dockside station, unlike the power 
supply I had at the yard.  My installer recommended using a y-splitter to 
provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets combining into my 1 30A inlet cable, what 
does the list think?

6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, backed up nicely, got up to the full 
rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the aforementioned vibration above 1000.

7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power were held in a normal tone of 
voiceas if we were ghosting

Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario

ag@@airsensing.com

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