Re: Stus-List Internal Outhaul
My 35 MKII has a block set (4:1 advantage) inside the boom with 3/8 inch diameter braid. I believe that was original gear and the outhaul was adjusted using a number 10 Barient winch fasten forward to the stbd side of the boom so that meant going up on deck with a winch handle in hand to make clew outhaul adjustments. A few years ago I changed the line on the block set because the old line was worn and I needed a longer length of line so that I could lead it from inside the boom at the gooseneck and 90 degrees down to the base of the mast and then to turning blocks and fianlly thru a lewmar clutch to a cabin top winch. That system works quite well for tensioning the clew outhaul but even with a loose foot main relaxing tension to create a fuller sail in light air requires a push on the clew slug...makes me wonder that if the air is not strong enough to make the sail fuller under relaxed outhaul tension then does that adjustment really matter all that much...I really can't say that I have noticed much of a speed difference so most of the time I don't bother to relax tension as the air lightens...I sail mostly with the loose foot about 4-6 inches off the boom at its center and tension slightly more going to weather in winds above 17 apparent or so. I think the block set creates added friction preventing easy release on relaxing tension and the clew slug also adds friction. Lucky enough on the 35 MKII that is not the most important adjsutment on the boat IMHO. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 9:23 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: If this is anything like the 115 it is likely already run to a winch as well. On the 115 I believe there is also the internal blocks and it is still run to a winch and difficult to tighten under load. Yes the winches are usually busy with other tasks but the outhaul does run to a cabin top winch on both the 115 and the CC 99 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2015 6:55 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Internal Outhaul The winch is likely in use trimming spinnaker or something else when you most want to adjsut the outhaul and it is so sweet when main trimmer asks for more outhaul that you can just reach over and give it a little pull to make the adjustment. On 03/05/2015 6:29 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote: Yes, a bit of an oxymoron. So I was happily replacing 15 year old running rigging on my 121 today when I discovered the boat came with a 4:1 purchase tucked inside the boom for the outhaul. Who’d a thunk. Two questions for this knowledgeable group. Why in the world would I not rip this out a simply run a line from boom end to cabin top winch? As is, the outhaul runs from boom end, through the purchase system, through a sheave, through a turning block at the mast base, through a deck organizer and finally to a winch on the cabin top. They weren’t even particularly good blocks inside the mast. I would think any mechanical advantage would be lost to friction Perhaps it serves a purpose in that the line won’t jump when taken off the winch. There has to be a block tucked well into the boom attached at some point with, I would guess, a wire lead. How do you get to it? All help appreciated John ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag CC 30 Armdale Y.C. Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
Maybe one or two blades of the pump's impeller are worn off so that the pump supplies enough cooling water up to a point. I would check the impeller next. Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Wind was fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the way out. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I tightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
Also check the mixing elbow-crap will block flow out of back side of heat exchanger... Kim Brown TrustMe!!! 35-3 Message: 14 Date: Tue, 05 May 2015 07:49:11 -0400 From: Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com To: Tom Buscaglia t...@sv-alera.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only Message-ID: 691a0ca5-29ae-4030-97d7-0bbe95a58...@icloud.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Maybe one or two blades of the pump's impeller are worn off so that the pump supplies enough cooling water up to a point. I would check the impeller next. Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Wind was fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the way out. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I tightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150505/2e cdae8e/attachment.html -- Subject: Digest Footer ___ CnC-List mailing list CnC-List@cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 112, Issue 9 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Internal Outhaul
If this is anything like the 115 it is likely already run to a winch as well. On the 115 I believe there is also the internal blocks and it is still run to a winch and difficult to tighten under load. Yes the winches are usually busy with other tasks but the outhaul does run to a cabin top winch on both the 115 and the CC 99 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 6:55 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Internal Outhaul The winch is likely in use trimming spinnaker or something else when you most want to adjsut the outhaul and it is so sweet when main trimmer asks for more outhaul that you can just reach over and give it a little pull to make the adjustment. On 03/05/2015 6:29 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List wrote: Yes, a bit of an oxymoron. So I was happily replacing 15 year old running rigging on my 121 today when I discovered the boat came with a 4:1 purchase tucked inside the boom for the outhaul. Who’d a thunk. Two questions for this knowledgeable group. Why in the world would I not rip this out a simply run a line from boom end to cabin top winch? As is, the outhaul runs from boom end, through the purchase system, through a sheave, through a turning block at the mast base, through a deck organizer and finally to a winch on the cabin top. They weren’t even particularly good blocks inside the mast. I would think any mechanical advantage would be lost to friction Perhaps it serves a purpose in that the line won’t jump when taken off the winch. There has to be a block tucked well into the boom attached at some point with, I would guess, a wire lead. How do you get to it? All help appreciated John ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag CC 30 Armdale Y.C. Halifax ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Whisker pole mount
Jean Rivard, would you please send me a picture of both of your pole mounts? Thanks Barbara H. Fellers CC 33-1 Flight Risk Charleston, SC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
I have had similar experiences a few times now where the problem turned out to be a partial obstruction to the raw water flow ahead of the strainer, including on one occasion a tiny piece of twig that got stuck in the elbow in the top of the strainer housing itself. A quick and dirty fix that has worked for me when dock side is to disconnect the hose at the strainer and blow it out using a water hose from the dock. Obviously that did not work when the blockage was in the strainer housing itself, and it took me quite a while to find that little bugger. I am not very good at judging the rate of water flow by observing the splashy output of the exhaust, which can make a partial raw water blockage hard to diagnose. My 2 cents. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON - Original Message - From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List To: Tom Buscaglia ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Boyer Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 07:49 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only Maybe one or two blades of the pump's impeller are worn off so that the pump supplies enough cooling water up to a point. I would check the impeller next. Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Wind was fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the way out. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I tightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?
My CC 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. The question is: Am I an idiot? The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or less. I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. What say you? Rob H. Sent from my Samsung device___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
What's a cross over elbow? I was wondering the same thing... On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: OK, what's a crossover elbow? On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Tom I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI. (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a common thing. It was easy to do. Gary Kolc Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be better, but can't find them anymore. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Did you see the Dauphin island race disaster?
I hope none of our CC buddies got caught in the mess. 2 confirmed fatalities. It's a long running race across Mobile bay to Dauphin Island. An afternoon thunderstorm freakishly turned into a full-on tropical depression with reported gusts up to 70 mph. Our thoughts are with the families. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Sent from my iPad___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks
I put mine on the spreaders, halfway along, underneath.sam:-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake AlbertaFrom: David Paine via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 8:15 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: David PaineSubject: Stus-List Lazy JacksI am planning to install lazy jacks on my CC 33-1. Something simple with rings instead of blocks. The two top most lines attach ... where? I'm aiming for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast. How long should the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur? Appreciate any insights!David ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
Word of caution.only open the ends of your heat exchanger if you have 'new seals' to replace the old ones that might not survive the operation. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-05 1:51 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List wrote: If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- *From: *Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List *Date: *Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com; *Subject:*Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 tel:%28206%29%20463-9200 www.sv-alera.com http://www.sv-alera.com/ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
I think he means the injection elbow where the water enters the exhaust stream. The high heat in this area can cause clogs of salt and soot. They are easy to remove, clean, and replace. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 7:10 PM To: CC List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only What's a cross over elbow? I was wondering the same thing... On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: OK, what's a crossover elbow? On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Tom I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI. (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a common thing. It was easy to do. Gary Kolc Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be better, but can't find them anymore. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?
Rob, I bought a Rocna 15 (33 lb) for my 35-1, which weighs (reportedly) 10,500 lb, and it works great. Looking at the Rocna chart for 33'/8,700 lb, (10m, 4t) the 22lb is the recommended size. Looks to me like you're in the right size range. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/5/2015 11:38 PM, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List wrote: My CC 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. The question is: Am I an idiot? The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or less. I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. What say you? Rob H. Sent from my Samsung device ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
...so was Isam:-)From: Josh Muckley via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 5:09 PMTo: CC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Josh MuckleySubject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only"What's a cross over elbow?" I was wondering the same thing... On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, "Richard Bush via CnC-List" cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:OK, what's a crossover elbow? On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Tom I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI. (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a common thing. It was easy to do. Gary Kolc Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8" diameter wooden dowels bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be better, but can't find them anymore. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
Yup. The exhaust elbow would be my first guess, especially if you have not cleaned it in 700 engine hours. Impeller would be my second guess. You are looking at the right symptom, insufficient water flow. But you are looking at the intake side of the water flow. With Yanmars the problem is more commonly on the exit side. My friend, who is a diesel engine mechanic that helped me diagnose a similar problem on a 2GMF13 about a month ago, says he runs a small rod through the small elbow where water gets injected into the exhaust elbow every 50 hours or at least once a year on the Yanmar in his J/30. According to him dislodging the carbon buildup is routine maintenance, and if not done leads to the water passage being plugged. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome Tauber via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:48 PM To: Tom Buscaglia; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only Exhaust elbow. Check for clogging. Yanmar recommends replacement every 7 or do years. If clogged engine will overheat at high rpm. Jerry JJ. Sent from my iPhone On May 4, 2015, at 9:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Wind was fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has a Yanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at our usual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went off and I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and no more alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the raw water trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarm went off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around 2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the way out. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so I tightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressure wash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intake then. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I should check? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com http://www.sv-alera.com/ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?
Neil, Ha! You have answered my question. I am an idiot! For some reason, I was thinking that a ton is 1000 lbs. Too much metric, I guess Thanks! Robert H. Original message From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 05-05-2015 9:01 PM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Neil Gallagher njgallag...@optonline.net Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle? Rob, I bought a Rocna 15 (33 lb) for my 35-1, which weighs (reportedly) 10,500 lb, and it works great. Looking at the Rocna chart for 33'/8,700 lb, (10m, 4t) the 22lb is the recommended size. Looks to me like you're in the right size range. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/5/2015 11:38 PM, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List wrote: My CC 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. The question is: Am I an idiot? The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or less. I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. What say you? Rob H. Sent from my Samsung device ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 33 - I aft lowers
Hi All, CC 33 - 1 with two sets of lowers: forward and aft. They attach at two attachment points on the mast, one slightly higher than the other and both just below the spreaders. Do the forward lowers attach at the highest point or the one 2 inches lower? Thanks! David ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks
one option is to attach the top lines to the spreaders, some 5-10 cm off the mast. This way the lines don’t interfere (or interfere less) with raising the sail. Btw. you need plenty of line for the lazy jacks. Much more than you think (at least, what I thought). 100 ft. may not be enough. Marek From: David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 10:19 AM To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks Roughly above the first spreader. I would look at the designs from EZ Jax and Mack Sails (and maybe Harken). I liked the EZ Jax system (I installed it on my previous boat) best of those I have used because it is easy to pull all the lines forward to secure at the mast to get them out of the way. It is the only system I have seen that can potentially be deployed and cleared from the cockpit (although mine was not set up that way). Dave On May 5, 2015, at 10:15 AM, David Paine via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am planning to install lazy jacks on my CC 33-1. Something simple with rings instead of blocks. The two top most lines attach ... where? I'm aiming for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast. How long should the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur? Appreciate any insights! David ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Lazy Jacks
I am planning to install lazy jacks on my CC 33-1. Something simple with rings instead of blocks. The two top most lines attach ... where? I'm aiming for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast. How long should the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur? Appreciate any insights! David ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks
Roughly above the first spreader. I would look at the designs from EZ Jax and Mack Sails (and maybe Harken). I liked the EZ Jax system (I installed it on my previous boat) best of those I have used because it is easy to pull all the lines forward to secure at the mast to get them out of the way. It is the only system I have seen that can potentially be deployed and cleared from the cockpit (although mine was not set up that way). Dave On May 5, 2015, at 10:15 AM, David Paine via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am planning to install lazy jacks on my CC 33-1. Something simple with rings instead of blocks. The two top most lines attach ... where? I'm aiming for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast. How long should the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur? Appreciate any insights! David ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
OK, what's a crossover elbow? On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Tom I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI. (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a common thing. It was easy to do. Gary Kolc Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be better, but can't find them anymore. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables
Richard, When I tightened my steering cables, I tightened them to almost remove all slop in the wheel. but not so tight to put a strain on anything. I now have about 1/2 to 3/4 inch play in the wheel. Doug Mountjoy sv Pegasus LF38 #4 just west of Ballard, WA On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 8:58 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi all, in getting ready for spring I noticed some slack in my steering cables in the area between the quadrant and the sheaves which turn the cable up into the helm; the play is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch; is there a norm or a standard rule of thumb for how much, if any flex, or looseness is considered standard, similar to the tension of an engine belt, (I'm thinking of the 1/2 inch flex for the alternator belt, etc)? I did tighten up the cable terminal on the quadrant and that seemed to tighten the cable a bit, but I can only reach on of the terminals, not both of them...: also, we got in our first sail of the season last Sunday and there was no noticeable play or slack in the steering wheel. many thanks to the group for your collective wisdom! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
If all else checks-out it could be load related as well. If your prop has variable pitch it may have gone to an over-pitch situation. I've also heard that a very dirty hull can increase drag enough to overload the engine / make it run hot. Good luck with it. Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
Tom I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI. (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a common thing. It was easy to do. Gary Kolc Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be better, but can't find them anymore. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables
Hi all, in getting ready for spring I noticed some slack in my steering cables in the area between the quadrant and the sheaves which turn the cable up into the helm; the play is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch; is there a norm or a standard rule of thumb for how much, if any flex, or looseness is considered standard, similar to the tension of an engine belt, (I'm thinking of the 1/2 inch flex for the alternator belt, etc)? I did tighten up the cable terminal on the quadrant and that seemed to tighten the cable a bit, but I can only reach on of the terminals, not both of them...: also, we got in our first sail of the season last Sunday and there was no noticeable play or slack in the steering wheel. many thanks to the group for your collective wisdom! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___Emailaddress:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, includingunsubscribing -- go to the bottom of pageat:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question
If you follow the recommendation you will be using the house bank for starting the engine. Not what you had in mind, I think. Replace the orange wire with a run to the house bank, properly switched/fused. Leslie. On Mon, 5/4/15, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question To: Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Monday, May 4, 2015, 2:35 PM Joe, I’m 99% sure too, but it reminds me of cutting the wrong wire in all those action movies. Snip and the bomb explodes…. According to the third posting on this page — http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade — he says cut the orange wire and replace it with a heavier gauge wire between the alternator and the starter, but then recommends (as I am planning) to run the wire to your house bank and use an ACR. Am I missing anything? What’s the word on the street?? (Fred Street, I mean) All the best, Edd Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseCC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On May 4, 2015, at 5:24 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am 99% sure it is the orange wire labeled Positive Output next to the AC tap.It will take a little more doing than just moving a wire. I’ll try and trace that diagram out when I get a chance. Joe Della barba...@dellabarba.com CoquinaCC 35 MK IFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 1:45 PM To: CC List Subject: Stus-List Alternator Output Question -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks
I just completed building my lazy jacks (literally 2 days ago), so all the info is top of mind. I used the Guy Stevens article as my main reference: http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_services/articles/tamers.php I used 250' of 3/16 XLE Performer double braid (tan). I have about 30-60' leftover. I connected the junctions with bowlines through brass rings. 3 legs on the boom (same design as the 1st image in that article I linked). I set the first split (top-most junction below the blocks) only 3-4' below the blocks, but I have extra line to lower that a bit more over time to fine tune it. I agree with mounting on the spreaders is usually ideal. A lot depends on how you want to use your lazy jacks. Some keep them up permanently which I don't really see the point to. I don't put the lazy jacks up to raise the sail so spreader blocks aren't a benefit in that regard, but I think are a big benefit for reducing noise on the mast (the blocks and any rings you use will be easier to hold away from the mast). The recommended height is usually about 2/3 - 3/4 up the mast. Not sure how that works out in relation to the spreaders on the 33-1. -Patrick CC LF38 Violet Hour Seattle, WA On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: From: Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Date: Tue, 5 May 2015 11:23:18 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks one option is to attach the top lines to the spreaders, some 5-10 cm off the mast. This way the lines don’t interfere (or interfere less) with raising the sail. Btw. you need plenty of line for the lazy jacks. Much more than you think (at least, what I thought). 100 ft. may not be enough. Marek *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Tuesday, May 05, 2015 10:19 AM *To:* CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks Roughly above the first spreader. I would look at the designs from EZ Jax and Mack Sails (and maybe Harken). I liked the EZ Jax system (I installed it on my previous boat) best of those I have used because it is easy to pull all the lines forward to secure at the mast to get them out of the way. It is the only system I have seen that can potentially be deployed and cleared from the cockpit (although mine was not set up that way). Dave On May 5, 2015, at 10:15 AM, David Paine via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am planning to install lazy jacks on my CC 33-1. Something simple with rings instead of blocks. The two top most lines attach ... where? I'm aiming for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast. How long should the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur? Appreciate any insights! David ___ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables
Richard, The Edison web site may have cable tension information that would work as a guideline. A few months back a cnc-lister mentioned finding significant corrosion damage to the aluminum backing plates at the point the cable turning blocks were attached. If you notice the cables loosing tension over a short time that would be a good place to check. On Calypso I set the steering cable tension to have +-1/2” deflection at the middle of the longest run. I perform the first tensioning, rotated the wheel/rudder for a few minutes then re-check in case the cable needed to seat a bit more. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. Bush via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 8:58 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Richard N. Bush Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables Hi all, in getting ready for spring I noticed some slack in my steering cables in the area between the quadrant and the sheaves which turn the cable up into the helm; the play is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch; is there a norm or a standard rule of thumb for how much, if any flex, or looseness is considered standard, similar to the tension of an engine belt, (I'm thinking of the 1/2 inch flex for the alternator belt, etc)? I did tighten up the cable terminal on the quadrant and that seemed to tighten the cable a bit, but I can only reach on of the terminals, not both of them...: also, we got in our first sail of the season last Sunday and there was no noticeable play or slack in the steering wheel. many thanks to the group for your collective wisdom! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.commailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Internal out haul
I just took my clew slug off. I MacLubed the sheave and fastened the out haul line with a bowline straight to the clew eye. The metal slug was heavy as he'll and would not allow easing out in light air. Just my .02. We'll see. Barbara H. Fellers CC 33-1 Flight Risk Charleston, SC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables
Hi Richard, I just replaced my idler plate and chain and cables. The tension is not to be banjo string tight, but only tight enough that the rudder turns immediately when you turn the wheel, also no noticeable slack in the lazy cable. Here's a youtube video from Edson Marine. The tension is explained at 7:30 minutes into the video. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 1:52:36 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables Richard, The Edison web site may have cable tension information that would work as a guideline. A few months back a cnc-lister mentioned finding significant corrosion damage to the aluminum backing plates at the point the cable turning blocks were attached. If you notice the cables loosing tension over a short time that would be a good place to check. On Calypso I set the steering cable tension to have +-1/2” deflection at the middle of the longest run. I perform the first tensioning, rotated the wheel/rudder for a few minutes then re-check in case the cable needed to seat a bit more. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. Bush via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 8:58 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Richard N. Bush Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables Hi all, in getting ready for spring I noticed some slack in my steering cables in the area between the quadrant and the sheaves which turn the cable up into the helm; the play is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch; is there a norm or a standard rule of thumb for how much, if any flex, or looseness is considered standard, similar to the tension of an engine belt, (I'm thinking of the 1/2 inch flex for the alternator belt, etc)? I did tighten up the cable terminal on the quadrant and that seemed to tighten the cable a bit, but I can only reach on of the terminals, not both of them...: also, we got in our first sail of the season last Sunday and there was no noticeable play or slack in the steering wheel. many thanks to the group for your collective wisdom! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables
Doug, thanks, so I guess I'm in the acceptable range? Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Douglas Mountjoy svpegasu...@gmail.com Sent: Tue, May 5, 2015 1:35 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables Richard, When I tightened my steering cables, I tightened them to almost remove all slop in the wheel. but not so tight to put a strain on anything. I now have about 1/2 to 3/4 inch play in the wheel. Doug Mountjoy sv Pegasus LF38 #4 just west of Ballard, WA On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 8:58 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi all, in getting ready for spring I noticed some slack in my steering cables in the area between the quadrant and the sheaves which turn the cable up into the helm; the play is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch; is there a norm or a standard rule of thumb for how much, if any flex, or looseness is considered standard, similar to the tension of an engine belt, (I'm thinking of the 1/2 inch flex for the alternator belt, etc)? I did tighten up the cable terminal on the quadrant and that seemed to tighten the cable a bit, but I can only reach on of the terminals, not both of them...: also, we got in our first sail of the season last Sunday and there was no noticeable play or slack in the steering wheel. many thanks to the group for your collective wisdom! Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Whisker pole mount
Hi Barbara, We'll do. I'm running a Wednesday nite race tomorrow evening. I'll take some pictures when I get to the boat. Best regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Jean Rivard, would you please send me a picture of both of your pole mounts? Thanks Barbara H. Fellers CC 33-1 Flight Risk Charleston, SC___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Internal out haul
In light winds you may have to smack the foot of the sail lightly to get it to belly out. - Original Message - From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: blhick...@yahoo.com Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 4:31:50 PM Subject: Stus-List Internal out haul I just took my clew slug off. I MacLubed the sheave and fastened the out haul line with a bowline straight to the clew eye. The metal slug was heavy as he'll and would not allow easing out in light air. Just my .02. We'll see. Barbara H. Fellers CC 33-1 Flight Risk Charleston, SC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only
I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8 diameter wooden dowels bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be better, but can't find them anymore. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout. Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen. Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
