Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

2015-08-10 Thread Alan Bergen via CnC-List
The engine should turn over whether the glow plug button is depressed or not. 
Twelve volts should go to the ignition switch. The other side of the ignition 
switch should go to the starter button and to the glow plug button. Depressing 
the glow plug button will energize the glow plug. Then depressing the starter 
button while still depressing the glow plug button should start the engine. 
However, if the engine is warm, you should be able to start the engine by just 
depressing the starter button. 

If the red-yellow wire is only showing eight volts at the solenoid when the 
starter button and the glow plug button are depressed, trace the wire to see 
whether there is a bad connection somewhere in the circuit. It's also possible 
that the starter button is bad, but appears good when there isn't much current 
being drawn. Try shorting the starter button while depressing the glow plug 
button. If you get twelve volts at the solenoid, you have a bad starter button. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 


1. The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function. We then 
tested power at the engine. There is a heavy red cable coming from the battery 
to the starter measured 12V. The red-yellow wire from the start button is 
attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring diagram in the 
manual does not show a solenoid). We only measured 8 volts at the solenoid when 
the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else. So that probably explains 
the fact that both the glow plugs and starter won’t work at the same time 
because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the solenoid. I will pull the starter 
next winter and have someone test it unless someone has an alternative 
suggestion. 

2. The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power from the 
key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from the other lead 
to the start button. The manual shows that wire running from the downstream 
side of the glow plug switch so that the start button should only be energized 
when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual describes). If that were the 
case, the I would not be able to start the engine with only the start button. 
Nevertheless, it does start the engine. Tracing the wires, we found that the 
bridging wire actually came from the hot side of the glow plug switch, so that 
either button will work independently as both are always powered. What I don’t 
understand is why you would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since 
that would remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in 
an already warm engine). I don’t know if the PO or some yard mechanic made that 
change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual, so I am curious how other 
Universal panels are wired. The way it is actually wired makes more sense to me 
than what is in the manual unless I am missing something. 

Thanks- Dave 

Aries 
1990 CC 34+ 
New London, CT 


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Re: Stus-List Volvo penta 2003 air silencer

2015-08-10 Thread Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
I put an AirSep air filter/silencer on Calypso's Perkins 4-108 and it did 
reduce the intake noise.  It has been a while since I have heard the engine 
with out the AirSep in place but IIRC it mostly reduced the roaring sound of 
the air rushing through the intake.



The AirSep also recycles blow by oil mist directly back into the oil pan.  On 
Calypso's older, high hours engine the blow by handling is nice feature. (BTW 
this 4-108 is Calypso's second engine installed around 1990 by the prior owner. 
 I estimate it has about 2,000 hours.)



I expect an AirSep for your engine would cost more than the Volvo part, but 
maybe not as I have heard Volvo parts can be expensive.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Bill Hoyne via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Hoyne
Subject: Stus-List Volvo penta 2003 air silencer

Hi All,

I have a old (no surprise there)volvo penta 2003 and my mechanic said if I put 
an intake air silencer (part no 840691) on it would reduce the noise level of 
the engine.
Volvo unfortunately no longer makes these things. Can they be found? (No luck 
yet with search) Is there a better way to do this with other aftermarket parts?
 More importantly will this reduce the volume of noise my engine makes?

Cheers,
Bill

Mithrandir
’74 CC35 MkII
in Victoria,BC

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread William Walker via CnC-List
We're you motor sailing?  If heeled, as when motor sailing, I have experience 
oil pressure alarm.  I assumed the oil pick up was affected by heel of boat.  
Oil level was mid level on stick when at rest.  A thought.
Bill Walker
CnC 36




Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, August 10, 2015 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40

Oil level checked July 22

300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

 

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

 

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

 

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

 

Any thoughts?  

 

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance

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Stus-List Just 32 Days Until the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous!

2015-08-10 Thread Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Listers,

Just 32 days to go to the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous — See cnc2015.com 
http://cnc2015.com/.

Floating private dock
Power / Water
Pool / Hot Tub
Recreation Area
Ship’s Store / Mechanics on Site
Shopping Shuttle to Premium Outlet Mall
Close to Trains and Route 1 in Clinton, CT
Group Dinners including Waterfront Restaurant Group Buffet
Reserve Online at cnc2015.com http://cnc2015.com/
Special Surprise Guest Attending
7 CCs with 17 attendees have signed up so far. Don’t miss this great 
opportunity to put faces to the names, see other’s modifications, and enjoy the 
camaraderie of CC owners! 

Some modifications that may be of interest: A HF Ham Radio Installation and a 
Complete Diesel Engine Repower.
 

Event Flyer (post at your clubs or on other CCs): 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/cnc2015/cnc2015-flyer.pdf 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/cnc2015/cnc2015-flyer.pdf 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Thanks Martin

The engine sounded normal.  When I shut it down and checked the oil level it 
was mid range in acceptable area on dip stick.  The engine compartment did not 
seem hot.  There was no sign of oil or coolant leakage.  Oil level approx the 
same as when checked two weeks ago

One note that may be relevant is that the warning light and buzzer occasionally 
does not come on when key is ON and engine Stopped.  Possible loose connection 
because a small jiggle of starter key area and it works properly

Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning


Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube oil 
pressure?



It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit.  
Install it and test again with the engine at normal operating temp.



If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 - Aug 2

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a clicking 
sound was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

Any thoughts?

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
___

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Stus-List Volvo penta 2003 air silencer

2015-08-10 Thread Bill Hoyne via CnC-List
Hi All,

I have a old (no surprise there)volvo penta 2003 and my mechanic said if I put 
an intake air silencer (part no 840691) on it would reduce the noise level of 
the engine. 
Volvo unfortunately no longer makes these things. Can they be found? (No luck 
yet with search) Is there a better way to do this with other aftermarket parts?
 More importantly will this reduce the volume of noise my engine makes?

Cheers,
Bill

Mithrandir
’74 CC35 MkII
in Victoria,BC

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
No.  We were motoring in waves though.  Mostly from astern or on quarter so 
boat had been moving around.

At dock was perfectly level

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 1:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning


We're you motor sailing?  If heeled, as when motor sailing, I have experience 
oil pressure alarm.  I assumed the oil pick up was affected by heel of boat.  
Oil level was mid level on stick when at rest.  A thought.
Bill Walker
CnC 36


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Monday, August 10, 2015 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

Any thoughts?

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
___ Email address: 
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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread S Thomas via CnC-List
Also not expensive to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up, even 
if you only want to do it temporarily. Actually just about any mechanical 
pressure gauge will work for test purposes, including air pressure gauges, just 
get one with an appropriate pressure range. 

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Martin DeYoung 
  Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 12:24
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning


  Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube 
oil pressure?



  It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit.  
Install it and test again with the engine at normal operating temp.



  If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump.



  Martin

  Calypso

  1971 CC 43

  Seattle


--

  From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
  Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Hoyt, Mike
  Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning


  Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40

  Oil level checked July 22

  300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2



  Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)



  At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.



  A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.



  Any thoughts?  



  Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance



--


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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Michael Brown via CnC-List
One thing that can cause this is when the oil is not draining back from the 
head or wherever
fast enough. At higher RPM you might be pumping more oil up, and after a while 
sucking
air in the pan instead of oil.

You might be able to determine if this is the case by measuring the oil level 
by dipstick while
it is running with alarm on. Or you could pull the rocker cover and check the 
drain holes.
Note that in most non-sailboat applications the engine is level and multiple 
holes share the
duty. I am guessing your 3GM30F may be at an incline, so if the rear drain is 
clogged it might
cause the problem.

Or not. Lots of other options.

Michael Brown
Windburn
CC 30-1

A heavy duty oil cleaner may help. 

Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2015 16:17:45 + 
From: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning 
Message-ID: 
     169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f0db...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 
 
Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40 
Oil level checked July 22 
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 ? Aug 2 
 
Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a ?clicking 
sound? was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing) 
 
At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited. 
 
A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off. 
 
Any thoughts? 
 
Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance 
___

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread svpegasus38




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Mike, summit racing is a great place to get gauges. Prices are good and 
delivery is fast.  The connection on the engine I believe is std 1/8th pipe 
thread. At least that was true on my 3qm30. The list is on the right track for 
your problem. Good luck. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, 
WA.




-- Original message--From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Date: Mon, Aug 10, 
2015 10:10To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Hoyt, Mike;Subject:Re: Stus-List 3GM30F 
Oil Pressure warning
So likely the best place to start is to change the oil and filter first and 
then check oil pressure. On phone to yanmar dealer to find out where to get a 
manual pressure guage and where I attach it to engine to test … Engine was not 
putting off excessive heat that I could notice.  Did not get a chance to check 
coolant level but can top that up also.  I believe that is a different light on 
the panel though. We have the B type panel and Oil Pressure lamp is second from 
right while water temp warning lamp is third from right.  The water temp lamp 
was not illuminated   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On 
Behalf Of S Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 2:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning Also not expensive to get a 
mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up, even if you only want to do it 
temporarily. Actually just about any mechanical pressure gauge will work for 
test purposes, including air pressure gauges, just get one with an appropriate 
pressure range. Steve ThomasCC27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON- Original Message 
-From:Martin DeYoung via CnC-ListTo:cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc:Martin 
DeYoungSent: Monday, August 10, 2015 12:24Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil 
Pressure warning Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was 
short of lube oil pressure? It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil 
pressure sending unit.  Install it and test again with the engine at normal 
operating temp. If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump. 
MartinCalypso1971 CC 43SeattleFrom: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warningOil changed in May. Used 15W 
40Oil level checked July 22300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then 
Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2 Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 
5.5 hrs a “clicking sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram 
mic  but was still there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm 
speaker on Yanmar panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated 
and alarm sounded.  Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing) At 
dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM and 
the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited. A few minutes 
later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by sputtering and then 
full alarm 

Re: Stus-List Off Topic- Automated Race Signals

2015-08-10 Thread david via CnC-List
Thanks to all for the ideas. I like the VHF start idea and race score as
compensation may work too. Regatta Pro is one of the systems I have been looking
at.
 
Once upon a time before I joined the club there were  6 permanent marks placed
each year and each race they picked the best windward leeward combination and
went with that. A mark boat was not required. However, as they were not equipped
with functioning lights, and after a powerboat hit one at night, they were
deemed a hazard and have not been used since. They had the added benefit too of
allowing boats to practice without having an actual race. You could do a
windward leeward race with yourself whenever you felt like it. Most of the
sailing community on the lake is pretty choked we can't have those anymore, but
we all have to get along...
 
Thanks
David Donnelly
CC 26 Mistress

 On August 10, 2015 at 2:33 AM Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
  We use the regatta pro system for sound signals -  it is almost idiot proof
 if the operators don't mess with the settings!
   
  We recently modified the set up so that instead of the electric output going
 to the supplied air pump (and horns) it now goes directly to power horns in
 the committee boat.  I dare say an electronics engineer could use the electric
 output signals from the regatta pro to drive lights - but it would not be very
 easy. Maybe it's commercially available. 
   
  I am not sure if this is permissible on lakes, but we on Long Island Sound
 have been placing permanent (removed in the winter) race marks in our racing
 area. Each year they are re-placed in exactly the same location.  Over many
 many years, the locations have been determined based on common winds. For
 sure, the windward mark is not always exactly upwind of the chosen starting
 pin, but usually close enough to satisfy our most competitive sailors.  
   
  Use of fixed marks, and the regatta pro allows us to run races with two on
 the committee boat (though we usually have three) and eliminates need for a
 mark boat. 
   
  As other Clubs, we also require those that race to do time on the Committee
 boat - though we do not compensate with a race score.  We also rely heavily on
 non-racing members of the Club to volunteer on RC duty.  It's not generally an
 issue - we make those individuals responsible for finding their own
 replacements if they cannot perform their duties on a given date. 
   
  Hope this helps with some ideas. 
 
  --
  Jonathan
  Indigo CC 35III
  SOUTHPORT CT
 
 
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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
OK.

So the service manual says to connect the oil pressure gauge to the pilot lamp 
unit for primary pressure and lubricating oil pipe connector for secondary 
pressure.

Where is the pilot lamp unit?

Mike


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 2:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning


Mike, summit racing is a great place to get gauges. Prices are good and 
delivery is fast.  The connection on the engine I believe is std 1/8th pipe 
thread. At least that was true on my 3qm30.

The list is on the right track for your problem. Good luck.

Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.





-- Original message--

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

Date: Mon, Aug 10, 2015 10:10

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: Hoyt, Mike;

Subject:Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning


So likely the best place to start is to change the oil and filter first and 
then check oil pressure.

On phone to yanmar dealer to find out where to get a manual pressure guage and 
where I attach it to engine to test …

Engine was not putting off excessive heat that I could notice.  Did not get a 
chance to check coolant level but can top that up also.  I believe that is a 
different light on the panel though. We have the B type panel and Oil Pressure 
lamp is second from right while water temp warning lamp is third from right.  
The water temp lamp was not illuminated



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto::cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On 
Behalf Of S Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 2:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:%20cnc-l...@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

Also not expensive to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up, even 
if you only want to do it temporarily. Actually just about any mechanical 
pressure gauge will work for test purposes, including air pressure gauges, just 
get one with an appropriate pressure range.

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From:Martin DeYoung via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:Martin DeYoungmailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 12:24
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning


Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube oil 
pressure?



It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit.  
Install it and test again with the engine at normal operating temp.



If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List 
[cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto:[cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on 
behalf of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
[cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

Any thoughts?

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance

___

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Cooling water flow?  When changing the light bulbs or wiring in the past it
is easy enough to imagine a mixup.  Checking engine temp is where I would
start.

You could also have a very slight dilution of your oil with fuel.  After it
gets hot enough the viscosity drops and causes your low pressure alarm.
The priming pumps have a  rubber diaphragm that when degraded allows diesel
into the crankcase.  Bad HP injector pump seals can also let fuel in the
crankcase.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 10, 2015 12:18 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40

 Oil level checked July 22

 300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2



 Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking
 sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was
 still there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on
 Yanmar panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and
 alarm sounded.  Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)



 At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000
 RPM and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the
 speaker (the clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full
 illumination of Oil pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and
 waited.



 A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by
 sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm
 stopped and light turned off.



 Any thoughts?



 Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken
 with me in advance

 ___

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sounds like bad/loose wiring or a bad sending unit, with wiring the more
likely.  My 2 cents.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Mon, Aug 10, 2015 at 12:55 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 No.  We were motoring in waves though.  Mostly from astern or on quarter
 so boat had been moving around.



 At dock was perfectly level



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *William
 Walker via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2015 1:49 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* wwadjo...@aol.com
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning



 We're you motor sailing?  If heeled, as when motor sailing, I have
 experience oil pressure alarm.  I assumed the oil pick up was affected by
 heel of boat.  Oil level was mid level on stick when at rest.  A thought.
 Bill Walker
 CnC 36



 Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


 --

 On Monday, August 10, 2015 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40

 Oil level checked July 22

 300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2



 Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking
 sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was
 still there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on
 Yanmar panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and
 alarm sounded.  Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)



 At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000
 RPM and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the
 speaker (the clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full
 illumination of Oil pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and
 waited.



 A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by
 sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm
 stopped and light turned off.



 Any thoughts?



 Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken
 with me in advance

 ___ Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
So likely the best place to start is to change the oil and filter first and 
then check oil pressure.

On phone to yanmar dealer to find out where to get a manual pressure guage and 
where I attach it to engine to test ...

Engine was not putting off excessive heat that I could notice.  Did not get a 
chance to check coolant level but can top that up also.  I believe that is a 
different light on the panel though. We have the B type panel and Oil Pressure 
lamp is second from right while water temp warning lamp is third from right.  
The water temp lamp was not illuminated



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 2:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

Also not expensive to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up, even 
if you only want to do it temporarily. Actually just about any mechanical 
pressure gauge will work for test purposes, including air pressure gauges, just 
get one with an appropriate pressure range.

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoungmailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 12:24
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning


Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube oil 
pressure?



It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit.  
Install it and test again with the engine at normal operating temp.



If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 - Aug 2

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a clicking 
sound was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

Any thoughts?

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance

___

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Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade

2015-08-10 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
John — like most Furuno gear, I imagine the black-box radar is pretty reliable. 
 My concern is with the other gear needed to use it.  If you’re going to spend 
that much on buying and installing a system, you want it to work when you need 
it.  And that’s generally when conditions are bad; which is also when the 
consumer stuff (laptop, iPad, etc) is going to fail.  Then your investment is 
worthless.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 On Aug 9, 2015, at 9:07 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Any thoughts on the reliability of the Furuno unit itself?  It's a bit of an 
 oddity but has been on the market for a while.  Radar is not a critical 
 function to me (except when it is) but I view this more of an offshore tool 
 than anything else.  Just my opinion which I'm sure most would disagree with.

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Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI

2015-08-10 Thread Davidmidkiff via CnC-List
Can anyone tell me the mast height above water for a CC 30 MKI.
Prospective new owner needs info to make sure they can clear a bridge.

David Midkiff
Serendipity
CC 30 MkI

Infatuation
CC 35 MKIII


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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Knowles Rich via CnC-List
Mike:

Did you check the oil level after the alarm sounded? It could be low after a 
period of little use followed by motoring for a few hours. At higher RPM’s, the 
oil might fall below the pickup as more oil is pumped to the head than returns 
to the pan. I hope it is simple…..

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Aug 10, 2015, at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2
 
Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)
 
At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.
 
A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.
 
Any thoughts? 
 
Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
___

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Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread svpegasus38




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Mike, for your situation start with the secondary pressure. Not having a 
manual in front of me. My guess this will give you pressure after the filter. 
You should be able to detect a pressure drop across all rpm ranges. For 
reference my 3qm30 pressure is 75 at idle after start. 65 at 2100 engine warm. 
And 25 at ldle engine warm. Hope this helps. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.





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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Phil Rackus via CnC-List
The light doesn't come in when the engine is cold(?).  Has to be cooling 
related.   And yes, that can result in a low pressure warning before a temp 
warning.   Check your impeller.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 10, 2015, at 2:27 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

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Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

Any thoughts?

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
___

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube oil 
pressure?



It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit.  
Install it and test again with the engine at normal operating temp.



If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

Any thoughts?

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
___

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Rich

Me too!

I checked the level on the dipstick immediately after stopping engine.  Was 
middle of “safe” zone.  Plan to change oil and filter on the weekend, remove 
panel, check wiring and check oil pressure.  Boat had done a motor sail from 
Halifax to St Peters July 23-24 (25 hours motor) , St Peters to Dundee July 25 
(mostly sail), Dundee to Baddeck Aug 2 (5.5 hrs mostly motor).  Every day last 
week motor on for 20-30 minutes going to race and 10 coming back.  Then the 
next day 5.5 hrs Baddeck to Dundee (motor) .  I cannot call this a period of 
little use.

There was another boat named Indigo in Baddeck last week BTW

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 4:24 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

Mike:

Did you check the oil level after the alarm sounded? It could be low after a 
period of little use followed by motoring for a few hours. At higher RPM’s, the 
oil might fall below the pickup as more oil is pumped to the head than returns 
to the pan. I hope it is simple…..

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!




On Aug 10, 2015, at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

Any thoughts?

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
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Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!




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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Yves Gagnon via CnC-List
Good article on oïl pressure: 
http://www.international-auto.com/fiat-lancia-tips-on-reading-gauges/tips-on-reading-gauges-oil-pressure-gauges.cfm

Yves
Foxy, cc 33-1

Envoyé de mon iPhone

 Le 2015-08-10 à 14:25, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com a 
 écrit :
 
 OK.
  
 So the service manual says to connect the oil pressure gauge to the pilot 
 lamp unit for primary pressure and lubricating oil pipe connector for 
 secondary pressure. 
  
 Where is the pilot lamp unit? 
  
 Mike
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
 svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 2:48 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
  
 Mike, summit racing is a great place to get gauges. Prices are good and 
 delivery is fast.  The connection on the engine I believe is std 1/8th pipe 
 thread. At least that was true on my 3qm30. 
 The list is on the right track for your problem. Good luck. 
 Doug Mountjoy
 svPegasus
 LF38
 just west of Ballard, WA.
  
  
 -- Original message--
 From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
 Date: Mon, Aug 10, 2015 10:10
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
 Cc: Hoyt, Mike;
 Subject:Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
  
 So likely the best place to start is to change the oil and filter first and 
 then check oil pressure.
  
 On phone to yanmar dealer to find out where to get a manual pressure guage 
 and where I attach it to engine to test …
  
 Engine was not putting off excessive heat that I could notice.  Did not get a 
 chance to check coolant level but can top that up also.  I believe that is a 
 different light on the panel though. We have the B type panel and Oil 
 Pressure lamp is second from right while water temp warning lamp is third 
 from right.  The water temp lamp was not illuminated
  
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of S Thomas 
 via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 2:01 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: S Thomas
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
  
 Also not expensive to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up, 
 even if you only want to do it temporarily. Actually just about any 
 mechanical pressure gauge will work for test purposes, including air pressure 
 gauges, just get one with an appropriate pressure range.
  
 Steve Thomas
 CC27 MKIII
 Port Stanley, ON
 - Original Message -
 From:Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
 To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc:Martin DeYoung
 Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 12:24
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
  
 Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube 
 oil pressure?
  
 It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit.  
 Install it and test again with the engine at normal operating temp.
  
 If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump.
  
 Martin
 Calypso
 1971 CC 43
 Seattle
 From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
 CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
 Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Hoyt, Mike
 Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning
 
 Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
 Oil level checked July 22
 300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2
  
 Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
 sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was 
 still there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on 
 Yanmar panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm 
 sounded.  Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)
  
 At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
 and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
 clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of 
 Oil pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.
  
 A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
 sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
 stopped and light turned off.
  
 Any thoughts? 
  
 Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
 me in advance
 ___
 
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Stus-List CC 30 Mk1 mast height

2015-08-10 Thread Mitchell's via CnC-List
David, A quick check of the brochure says 42 feet 6 inches from the waterline. 
Wind instruments not included! 
Len


Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List Volvo penta 2003 air silencer

2015-08-10 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I put an aftermarket air filter on my yanmar and i can tell a difference.
Not silent, but quieter.

Josh Muckley
S/V  Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F
On Aug 10, 2015 2:36 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Hi All,

 I have a old (no surprise there)volvo penta 2003 and my mechanic said if I
 put an intake air silencer (part no 840691) on it would reduce the noise
 level of the engine.
 Volvo unfortunately no longer makes these things. Can they be found? (No
 luck yet with search) Is there a better way to do this with other
 aftermarket parts?
  More importantly will this reduce the volume of noise my engine makes?

 Cheers,
 Bill

 Mithrandir
 ’74 CC35 MkII
 in Victoria,BC


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Re: Stus-List Off Topic- Automated Race Signals

2015-08-10 Thread Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List

Try this:
http://www.lunenburghooter.ca/


On 8/9/2015 11:37 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List wrote:


I know this is sailing related but it is not CC related. We have a 
fair number of avid racers on the list and I was hoping for some 
useful leads.


A short background.

I started sailing essentially 3 years ago when we bought our CC 26. 
Although I have only raced in the “fun races” I have been volunteering 
on the race committee since joining the club. One problem we have 
always had is lack of other volunteers to help run good races, often 
there would be only 2 of us. One person usually ran the start 
countdowns and recorded times and I assisted on line calls and did all 
the mark setting and adjusting for changes in wind direction. Being on 
a lake wind shifts are a regular part of the day and while not an 
excessive amount there is almost always adjusting of the marks. 2 
people can manage the duties as long as they know what they are doing, 
committee boat and mark boat. The other individual is retiring from 
the committee boat duties.


I am only talking keelboat PHRF racing, not dingy racing. Series 
racing we have 6-8 boats usually and fun races we have 20ish.


I have been asked to be fleet captain next year. Having reservations 
regarding the ability to get volunteers as I have 3 seasons of 
experience in this regard I am trying to think of ways to “automate” 
the start sequence so that we can assign other club members to 
committee boat duty throughout the season. My thought process being if 
they are intimidated by racing rules, having a simple system pushing a 
button and watching the line is easier to train and get people 
acclimated. It also provides consistency to the boats racing that no 
one “forgets” the horn because they were talking to someone else aboard.


I realize this may not be official according to the rules but we are 
not running the Americas Cup. Having spent some time researching via 
google there are some commercial alternatives available, only a few I 
found in North America. I am looking for anyone’s experience with 
these devices and perhaps problems or ones to avoid. My short list of 
wants:


1.Ability to do a 5,4,1,0 start.

2.Easy to use / reset. Push button with its own clock

3.Connected to lights instead of using flags so all human intervention 
is avoided beyond the line observations and recording of time. I think 
racers on our lake would accept this as long as they are visible.


4.Portable, able to be taken ashore and used on different boats.

5.12V power

6.Reasonable cost

The lights seem to be a non-standard option on what I found, at least 
on this continent, or only on homemade systems.


Any leads or links appreciated.

Regards

David Donnelly

CC 26 Mistress



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--
Boat_Sig Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
CC 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread svpegasus38






Crom what I can ascertain is you have 2 filters, a large(primary)and a 
smaller one (secondary). The secondary oil press. is the pressure for this 
filter. The engine bleeds off some oil (5-10%) and sends it thru this filter 
and back to the oil sump.The critical pressure is the primary. This is 
regulated by the oil pressure relief valve (opens around 135psi) and by the 
clearances in the engine. As the engine wears the oil press will drop. Before 
changing your oil I would install an oil press guage 0 to 100psi should be 
enough. See what your pressures are at, cold idle, warm idle, and cruise rpm. 
Change the oil and filters then check again. This will tell you if the oil is 
getting diluted. Although old oil will have a lower press than new, but not 
more than 5-10psi. Feel free to contact me off list if you want. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Date: Mon, Aug 10, 
2015 13:50To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Hoyt, Mike;Subject:Re: Stus-List 3GM30F 
Oil Pressure warning
ThanksPlease explain difference between primary and secondary 
pressure.MikeFrom: CnC-List 
[cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com]Sent: August 10, 2015 5:48 PMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: svpegasus38@gmail.comSubject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil 
Pressure warningMike, for your situation start with the secondary pressure. Not 
having a manual in front of me. My guess this will give you pressure after the 
filter. You should be able to detect a pressure drop across all rpm ranges. For 
reference my 3qm30 pressure is 75 at idle after start. 65 at 2100 engine warm. 
And 25 at ldle engine warm. Hope this helps.Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38just west 
of Ballard, WA.___Email 
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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Thanks

Please explain difference between primary and secondary pressure.

Mike

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of 
svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: August 10, 2015 5:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

Mike, for your situation start with the secondary pressure. Not having a manual 
in front of me. My guess this will give you pressure after the filter. You 
should be able to detect a pressure drop across all rpm ranges. For reference 
my 3qm30 pressure is 75 at idle after start. 65 at 2100 engine warm. And 25 at 
ldle engine warm. Hope this helps.


Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA.



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Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

2015-08-10 Thread David Knecht via CnC-List
Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will not 
start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into shore power. 
 The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30 seconds and then 
while continuing to hold that button in, push the start button.  When I do 
that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the glow plug button and 
push the start button the engine starts fine.  My father (retired electrical 
engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in this case but sounds good) spent 
some time trying to diagnose the problem this weekend and found two interesting 
things:

1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.  We then 
tested power at the engine.  There is a heavy red cable coming from the battery 
to the starter measured 12V.  The red-yellow wire from the start button is 
attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring diagram in the 
manual does not show a solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts at the solenoid 
when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else.  So that probably 
explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter won’t work at the same 
time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the solenoid.  I will pull the 
starter next winter and have someone test it unless someone has an alternative 
suggestion.

2.  The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power from 
the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from the other 
lead to the start button.  The manual shows that wire running from the 
downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button should only be 
energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual describes).  If 
that were the case, the I would not be able to start the engine with only the 
start button.  Nevertheless, it does start the engine.  Tracing the wires, we 
found that the bridging wire actually came from the hot side of the glow plug 
switch, so that either button will work independently as both are always 
powered.  What I don’t understand is why you would wire it the other way (as 
the manual shows) since that would remove the ability to start the engine 
without the glow plugs (as in an already warm engine).  I don’t know if the PO 
or some yard mechanic made that change or if it is indicated wrong in the 
manual, so I am curious how other Universal panels are wired.  The way it is 
actually wired makes more sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am 
missing something.

Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

2015-08-10 Thread Garry Cross via CnC-List
If your reading 8V at the solenoid input then you are loosing 4V in the
wiring and connections.
This is likely due to bad connection, loose or corroded. Did you measure
the output pin on the button while pressed? Since it won't start with both
buttons pushed it would seem to me the loss is occurring prior to the
buttons and the more current you draw through a bad connection the more
voltage will be lost over that connection.

-- Forwarded message --
 From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com
 To: CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 Cc:
 Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2015 23:15:43 -0400
 Subject: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
 Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will
 not start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into
 shore power.  The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30
 seconds and then while continuing to hold that button in, push the start
 button.  When I do that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the
 glow plug button and push the start button the engine starts fine.  My
 father (retired electrical engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in
 this case but sounds good) spent some time trying to diagnose the problem
 this weekend and found two interesting things:

 1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.  We
 then tested power at the engine.  There is a heavy red cable coming from
 the battery to the starter measured 12V.  The red-yellow wire from the
 start button is attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring
 diagram in the manual does not show a solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts
 at the solenoid when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else.
 So that probably explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter
 won’t work at the same time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the
 solenoid.  I will pull the starter next winter and have someone test it
 unless someone has an alternative suggestion.

 2.  The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power
 from the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from
 the other lead to the start button.  The manual shows that wire running
 from the downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button
 should only be energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual
 describes).  If that were the case, the I would not be able to start the
 engine with only the start button.  Nevertheless, it does start the
 engine.  Tracing the wires, we found that the bridging wire actually came
 from the hot side of the glow plug switch, so that either button will work
 independently as both are always powered.  What I don’t understand is why
 you would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since that would
 remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in an
 already warm engine).  I don’t know if the PO or some yard mechanic made
 that change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual, so I am curious how
 other Universal panels are wired.  The way it is actually wired makes more
 sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am missing something.

 Thanks- Dave

 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI

2015-08-10 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
Three basic questions:

 

Reducing 85 feet of air draft to 65 feet requires 40 degrees of heel. What prep 
would you need to do to keep all your gear from ending up on the low side in a 
“gear-alanche”?

 

How in the heck much do those water bags weight to heel a Bermuda 40 that much, 
and just how much stress do those water bags put on the mast?

 

And who in their right mind would take a boat with an 85 foot air draft down 
the ICW anyway?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 5:26 PM
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI

 

Just tell them to do it like this! 

https://youtu.be/kiv0fxFcV3I

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 10, 2015 2:27 PM, Davidmidkiff via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

Can anyone tell me the mast height above water for a CC 30 MKI.
Prospective new owner needs info to make sure they can clear a bridge.

David Midkiff
Serendipity
CC 30 MkI

Infatuation
CC 35 MKIII


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Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI

2015-08-10 Thread Joseph Bognar via CnC-List
Mine is 42 ft from the deck to the top . Just add the freeboard and deck height 
and you will have the total , my boat is a 1979 also

Sent from Joe Bognar


 On Aug 10, 2015, at 2:27 PM, Davidmidkiff via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Can anyone tell me the mast height above water for a CC 30 MKI.
 Prospective new owner needs info to make sure they can clear a bridge.
 
 David Midkiff
 Serendipity
 CC 30 MkI
 
 Infatuation
 CC 35 MKIII
 
 
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Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI

2015-08-10 Thread Don Wagner via CnC-List
Rick
I doubt that it was a Bermuda 40. Since it was a yawl(or maybe ketch rigged) , 
a  B40 would likely have only 55 ‘ or less mast height. 
My CC 41 with a triple spreader tall rig is ~ 62 feet above the water. I keep 
thinking that I can make it through most of the ICW bridges.
Perhaps that boat was a Hinkley Souwester 50??

Don Wagner
CC 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI

Three basic questions:

 

Reducing 85 feet of air draft to 65 feet requires 40 degrees of heel. What prep 
would you need to do to keep all your gear from ending up on the low side in a 
“gear-alanche”?

 

How in the heck much do those water bags weight to heel a Bermuda 40 that much, 
and just how much stress do those water bags put on the mast?

 

And who in their right mind would take a boat with an 85 foot air draft down 
the ICW anyway?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 5:26 PM
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI

 

Just tell them to do it like this! 

https://youtu.be/kiv0fxFcV3I

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 10, 2015 2:27 PM, Davidmidkiff via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

  Can anyone tell me the mast height above water for a CC 30 MKI.
  Prospective new owner needs info to make sure they can clear a bridge.

  David Midkiff
  Serendipity
  CC 30 MkI

  Infatuation
  CC 35 MKIII


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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

2015-08-10 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
I hate to sound like the Grinch, and I just know that I am going to, but…

 

I don’t know what engine you have (presume it is a Yanmar), and I know that 
most of us ignore the proper procedure from time to time, but I can virtually 
guarantee that your owner’s manual calls for you to check the oil level before 
you start the engine each time. I ignore proper procedure myself; my typical 
practice is to not check if I will be motoring for 15 or 20 minutes but to 
always check before and after any periods when I run the engine for an hour or 
more. And I check the engine oil and coolant on OPB’s I am delivering and on 
charters every morning before the client gets up.

 

And “the middle of the safe zone” is really a low oil situation. Your dipstick 
is most likely in the back end of the oil pan and the engine is installed at a 
10 to 15 degree slant. “Middle of the safe range” might be as low as a quart of 
oil. When I fill my Universal with the required 3 ½ quarts of oil during an oil 
change, the oil level is above the top mark on the dipstick by a significant 
margin. Think of the marks as: Top – OK, full; Bottom – shut down the engine; 
and In Between – add oil.

 

The possibility of a lower than optimal oil level, combined with the long run 
at high RPMs and an older engine would seem to make the earlier suggestion that 
the oil was not circulating back to the oil pan sufficiently to keep the oil 
pressure above the alarm level a fairly plausible explanation of the behavior 
you described. I suspect the behavior you report for the alarm and light is 
another manifestation of the wiring problems typical of Yanmar panels.

 

You report 40 or so hours of engine use in the last 20 days. If use has been 
like this since May, you are due for an oil change about now anyway (I can’t 
recall if a Yanmar is every 50 hours or every 100). I’d change the oil and 
filter, being sure to fully top off the oil, and look at the wiring harness to 
identify the corrosion or loose connection causing the erratic operation of the 
alarm. Then see if the situation reappears in the future

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

Formerly Yanmar and Cummins certified technician and trainer for a forklift 
manufacturer

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 3:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

 

Rich

 

Me too!

 

I checked the level on the dipstick immediately after stopping engine.  Was 
middle of “safe” zone.  Plan to change oil and filter on the weekend, remove 
panel, check wiring and check oil pressure.  Boat had done a motor sail from 
Halifax to St Peters July 23-24 (25 hours motor) , St Peters to Dundee July 25 
(mostly sail), Dundee to Baddeck Aug 2 (5.5 hrs mostly motor).  Every day last 
week motor on for 20-30 minutes going to race and 10 coming back.  Then the 
next day 5.5 hrs Baddeck to Dundee (motor) .  I cannot call this a period of 
little use. 

 

There was another boat named Indigo in Baddeck last week BTW

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 4:24 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

 

Mike:

 

Did you check the oil level after the alarm sounded? It could be low after a 
period of little use followed by motoring for a few hours. At higher RPM’s, the 
oil might fall below the pickup as more oil is pumped to the head than returns 
to the pan. I hope it is simple…..

 

Rich Knowles

Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!




 

On Aug 10, 2015, at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com  wrote:

 

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40

Oil level checked July 22

300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

 

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

 

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

 

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

 

Any thoughts? 

 

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance


Re: Stus-List CC 30 Mk1 mast height

2015-08-10 Thread Joseph Bognar via CnC-List
I measured my mast and its 42 ft to the deck 

Sent from Joe Bognar


 On Aug 10, 2015, at 5:37 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 David, A quick check of the brochure says 42 feet 6 inches from the 
 waterline. Wind instruments not included! 
 Len
 
 
 Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI

2015-08-10 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List


IIRC, that was a Hinckley,  60 some feet 


Bill Coleman 

 Original message 
From: Don Wagner via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 08/10/2015  9:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Don Wagner don.wag...@verizon.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 MKI 




Rick
I doubt that it was a Bermuda 40. Since it was a yawl(or maybe ketch 
rigged) , a  B40 would likely have only 55 ‘ or less mast height. 
My CC 41 with a triple spreader tall rig is ~ 62 feet above the water. 
I keep thinking that I can make it through most of the ICW bridges.
Perhaps that boat was a Hinkley Souwester 50??
 
Don Wagner
CC 41 CB
Der Baron


 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new topic mast height CC 30 
MKI
 


Three 
basic questions:
 
Reducing 
85 feet of air draft to 65 feet requires 40 degrees of heel. What prep would 
you 
need to do to keep all your gear from ending up on the low side in a 
“gear-alanche”?
 
How 
in the heck much do those water bags weight to heel a Bermuda 40 that much, and 
just how much stress do those water bags put on the mast?
 
And 
who in their right mind would take a boat with an 85 foot air draft down the 
ICW 
anyway?
 
 
Rick 
Brass
Washington, 
NC
 
 
 
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 5:26 PM
To: CC 
List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
muckl...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List new topic mast 
height CC 30 MKI
 
Just tell them to do it like this! 
https://youtu.be/kiv0fxFcV3I
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 CC 
37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 10, 2015 2:27 PM, 
Davidmidkiff via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

  Can 
  anyone tell me the mast height above water for a CC 30 
  MKI.
Prospective new owner needs info to make sure they can clear a 
  bridge.

David Midkiff
Serendipity
CC 30 
  MkI

Infatuation
CC 35 
  MKIII


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Re: Stus-List Off Topic- Automated Race Signals

2015-08-10 Thread Indigo via CnC-List
We use the regatta pro system for sound signals -  it is almost idiot proof 
if the operators don't mess with the settings!

We recently modified the set up so that instead of the electric output going to 
the supplied air pump (and horns) it now goes directly to power horns in the 
committee boat.  I dare say an electronics engineer could use the electric 
output signals from the regatta pro to drive lights - but it would not be very 
easy. Maybe it's commercially available. 

I am not sure if this is permissible on lakes, but we on Long Island Sound have 
been placing permanent (removed in the winter) race marks in our racing area. 
Each year they are re-placed in exactly the same location.  Over many many 
years, the locations have been determined based on common winds. For sure, the 
windward mark is not always exactly upwind of the chosen starting pin, but 
usually close enough to satisfy our most competitive sailors.  

Use of fixed marks, and the regatta pro allows us to run races with two on the 
committee boat (though we usually have three) and eliminates need for a mark 
boat. 

As other Clubs, we also require those that race to do time on the Committee 
boat - though we do not compensate with a race score.  We also rely heavily on 
non-racing members of the Club to volunteer on RC duty.  It's not generally an 
issue - we make those individuals responsible for finding their own 
replacements if they cannot perform their duties on a given date. 

Hope this helps with some ideas. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 9, 2015, at 22:37, David Donnelly via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I know this is sailing related but it is not CC related. We have a fair 
 number of avid racers on the list and I was hoping for some useful leads.
  
 A short background.
  
 I started sailing essentially 3 years ago when we bought our CC 26. Although 
 I have only raced in the “fun races” I have been volunteering on the race 
 committee since joining the club. One problem we have always had is lack of 
 other volunteers to help run good races, often there would be only 2 of us. 
 One person usually ran the start countdowns and recorded times and I assisted 
 on line calls and did all the mark setting and adjusting for changes in wind 
 direction. Being on a lake wind shifts are a regular part of the day and 
 while not an excessive amount there is almost always adjusting of the marks. 
 2 people can manage the duties as long as they know what they are doing, 
 committee boat and mark boat. The other individual is retiring from the 
 committee boat duties.
  
 I am only talking keelboat PHRF racing, not dingy racing. Series racing we 
 have 6-8 boats usually and fun races we have 20ish.
  
 I have been asked to be fleet captain next year. Having reservations 
 regarding the ability to get volunteers as I have 3 seasons of experience in 
 this regard I am trying to think of ways to “automate” the start sequence so 
 that we can assign other club members to committee boat duty throughout the 
 season. My thought process being if they are intimidated by racing rules, 
 having a simple system pushing a button and watching the line is easier to 
 train and get people acclimated. It also provides consistency to the boats 
 racing that no one “forgets” the horn because they were talking to someone 
 else aboard.
  
 I realize this may not be official according to the rules but we are not 
 running the Americas Cup. Having spent some time researching via google there 
 are some commercial alternatives available, only a few I found in North 
 America. I am looking for anyone’s experience with these devices and perhaps 
 problems or ones to avoid. My short list of wants:
  
 1.  Ability to do a 5,4,1,0 start.
 2.  Easy to use / reset. Push button with its own clock
 3.  Connected to lights instead of using flags so all human intervention 
 is avoided beyond the line observations and recording of time. I think racers 
 on our lake would accept this as long as they are visible.
 4.  Portable, able to be taken ashore and used on different boats.
 5.  12V power
 6.  Reasonable cost
  
 The lights seem to be a non-standard option on what I found, at least on this 
 continent, or only on homemade systems.
  
 Any leads or links appreciated.
  
 Regards
 David Donnelly
 CC 26 Mistress
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