Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

...and a sun shower works great and doesn't use any electrical energy!

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Sep 2, 2015, at 12:47 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am still chuckling with all the math you guys are doing. The big question I 
> have is: where will you store your spinnaker(s) if you start using your 
> shower? Haha can you tell I sail in fresh water! 
> Len
> 
> Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

You are talking about taking almost 40AH from your house bank to take a 15 
minute shower.  If your bank is 200AH that’s a 20%.   Not sure if you have 
flooded lead acids or AGMs, but they are around 300-500 cycles.  So it’s a safe 
bet that after 300-500 showers you need to buy new batteries.  If your bank is 
400AH like mine, you could potentially double the amount of showers.  Also 
400AH agm bank is more than 1000$.  

 

As Josh said, inverters are very lossy abut 30-40% of energy is lost.  In 
addition sinusoid produced is hardly that of a 120V residential AC supply.  
Granted heater is just a resistor but its unclear what kind of control 
mechanism and electronics they are using to monitor heating and overheating 
etc.  If things don’t seem to work as expected that would be my first point to 
check.

 

On the other hand, 12V heating elements are not powerfull enough for instant 
water.   You need about 2000W hating element at 12V.  I don’t believe that 
exists.   Few years ago I searched for 12V heating element replacement for 6 
gal seward products water heater.  I was able to buy 450W 12V element on ebay 
that I fitted into the tank instead of the AC element.  It never heated any 
water but I was not expecting it.  I am using to dump access wind generator 
power on sunny days when solars have already filled the house bank.   

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 10:38 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

 

I did some rough math and it looks like you'll need ~38Ahrs of power for a 15 
minute shower.  Your inverter will be drawing 150amps through the supply wires 
and your alternator would have to recharge that amount.  With the stock 
alternator (35amps) it would take over and hour.  I do think I remember you 
having an upgraded alternator.  Of course the assumption was that the hot water 
was at full flow for the 15 minute duration.

The instant waterheater is just a resistive load.  It would be more efficient 
and possibly safer to eliminate the inverter from the picture.  It would take 
some electrical and electronics skills to re-engineer the unit to run on 12v 
instead of 120v.

That new water heater really is shockingly smaller.  You'll have to let us know 
how it turns out.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 31, 2015 10:15 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
wrote:

My hot water tank was failing as well and I’m in the middle of putting in a 
replacement — the hard part was getting the old one out of the tight space 
under the galley. 

 

I decided to go with an on-demand water heater which will either be powered by 
shore power or an inverter (2000W) while the engine is running. Here’s the one 
I picked: http://m.rakuten.com/product/263816304?listingid=337903396 

 =29963=pla_google_Zoro 

 

And here is old and new side-by-side: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/heaters.jpg 

 

I’ll try to finish it up over the next couple of weeks, but if not, it’ll be a 
quick winter project. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 





On Aug 30, 2015, at 11:13 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

In most of the little hot water tanks the anode is part of the hot water outlet 
nipple.  Follow the link for pictures of the tank rebuild I did. 

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 30, 2015 10:26 AM, "phorvati . via CnC-List"  
wrote:

And make sure you have zinc anodes.  Electrolysis will eat something.  

On Aug 29, 2015 8:51 PM, "Jim Watts via CnC-List"  wrote:

Put a meter on it and read what kind of voltage you are getting. 110V AC does 
not generally give little shocks. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 29 August 2015 at 16:15, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I'm working my way down my project list and finally got to my hot water tank.  
The PO just told me that it didn't work.  I was getting 120V at the heating 
element so I checked the element and it was fried.

I installed a new element and turned it on for a test. Got hot water after 
about 10 min, so I went to close everything up. But when I was doing that I 
touched the pressure relief valve and got a small shock.

The green ground wire runs to one of the mouting bolts on the heating element 
and also to the water tank frame. So that seems ok. I also checked for 
continuity between the hot and neutral wires and the relief valve or 

Stus-List Hot water tank

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

I am still chuckling with all the math you guys are doing. The big question I 
have is: where will you store your spinnaker(s) if you start using your shower? 
Haha can you tell I sail in fresh water! 
Len

Sent from my mobile device.
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Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on or do 
you use it temporarily as needed? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Fred

Does it hurt to keep the battery charger on?  I also have the AC powered frost 
plate system for refrigeration.  Charger is Xantrex Truecharge 40+ multistage 
charger

Mike


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

Edd — I have it on when I’m at the boat, but shut it off when I leave.  There’s 
plenty of battery capacity for the occasional bilge pump cycle.  I do NOT have 
DC refrigeration, but rather an AC-powered holding plate system.  I do leave 
that on all the time when connected to shore power.  If my fridge were 
DC-powered, then I’d leave the charger on full-time; it would be needed to keep 
the fridge from flattening the batteries.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 2, 2015, at 12:46 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> wrote:

When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on or do 
you use it temporarily as needed?

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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

My boat has a combination 120 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water 
heater.  It holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on the 
battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is consistent with the unit’s 
rating as the battery voltage dropped below 12 VDC when tried.  Since my 
alternator can only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are only #4 AWG, 
running the heater  with shore power does not seem practical.  I do not 
normally have AC shore power.  To prevent inadvertently turning on the heater, 
I disconnected the power feed at the circuit breaker.

 

The engine coolant part of the heater works great.  We can run the engine in 
the afternoon to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is plenty of 
hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick showers.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 




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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

We run a fridge and don't get to the boat on a regular schedule, so leave
the battery charger on.  If it's not on, what are you using shore power for?

Tim

Mojito
C 35-3
Branford, CT



On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 1:46 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on
> or do you use it temporarily as needed?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I used to leave the shore power/battery charger on all the time to keep the 
batteries topped off and to make up for occassional bilge pump cycling.

Then one day I got to the boat and the bilge pump was not working and the 
batteries were dead. It likely had been on for some time since the pump switch 
failed IIRC.

This caused the charger to be on continually which it did not like (True Charge 
40?). If fact it smoked a resister in the charger, 
which was evident by the black burn mark on it that I could see. Thanks to that 
and the bad float switch, the batteries were dead.

If the charger had not failed (perhaps it was designed that way), the charger 
may have caught on fire, along with the boat.

I have NEVER left the charger on when I am away from the boat, except for a day 
or two, since that happened. 

Getting to the boat with drained batteries is a minor inconvenience--getting a 
call from the fire department could ruin your whole day!

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb




cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Wed, Sep 2, 2015 1:50 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question


Edd — I have it on when I’m at the boat, but shut it off when I leave.  There’s 
plenty of battery capacity for the occasional bilge pump cycle.  I do NOT have 
DC refrigeration, but rather an AC-powered holding plate system.  I do leave 
that on all the time when connected to shore power.  If my fridge were 
DC-powered, then I’d leave the charger on full-time; it would be needed to keep 
the fridge from flattening the batteries. 






Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V  Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 







On Sep 2, 2015, at 12:46 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote: 


When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on or do 
you use it temporarily as needed?  




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Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Maybe “Ho” is the whole name…?   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 2, 2015, at 1:53 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Edd- I was at Block Island last week Monday and motored past a white 
> C+ at a mooring.  The rear steps were down so I could only see the first 
> few letters of the name Ho……  I went past a few times and never saw anyone to 
> say hello.  Any idea whose boat it is?  I was going to invite them to the 
> event, but did not know how to find the owner.

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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

When the boat is in the water, shore power is on when we are at the dock 
Mostly for refrigeration as we do leave 'stuff' on board that needs it.

Paul. :)


On Sep 2, 2015, at 4:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I have left mine on 24/7 for years without incident.  I have a Xantrex 
TrueCharge charger (Note: not a Xantrex TrueCharge2 which are notoriously short 
lived), Delco Voyager maintenance free batteries and a Newmar galvanic isolator.

The only user is the bilge pump.  No refrigeration, etc.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 12:46 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Listers,

When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on or do 
you use it temporarily as needed?


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


[cid:228F848E-DD8B-40A5-B66D-2689C3EC3EA7@mblaw.local]










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Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi David, 
FWIW, Hooligans Navy was a 34+ for sale a few years back? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
To: "CnC CnC discussion list"  
Cc: "David Knecht"  
Sent: Wednesday, September 2, 2015 2:53:03 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous 

Hi Edd- I was at Block Island last week Monday and motored past a white C+ 
at a mooring. The rear steps were down so I could only see the first few 
letters of the name Ho…… I went past a few times and never saw anyone to say 
hello. Any idea whose boat it is? I was going to invite them to the event, but 
did not know how to find the owner. Dave 

Dr. David Knecht 
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology 
Core Microscopy Facility Director 
University of Connecticut 
91 N. Eagleville Rd. 
Storrs, CT 06269 
860-486-2200 


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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I usually wire inverters to not supply the battery charger and water heater.
You may want to change your AC wiring to do this.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:41 PM
To: 'C List'
Cc: Ron Ricci
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

My boat has a combination 120 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water 
heater.  It holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on the 
battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is consistent with the unit’s 
rating as the battery voltage dropped below 12 VDC when tried.  Since my 
alternator can only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are only #4 AWG, 
running the heater  with shore power does not seem practical.  I do not 
normally have AC shore power.  To prevent inadvertently turning on the heater, 
I disconnected the power feed at the circuit breaker.

The engine coolant part of the heater works great.  We can run the engine in 
the afternoon to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is plenty of 
hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick showers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com




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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Mine is usually on. I have a good charger designed for 24/7 duty 
(http://promariner.com/products/dry-mount-marine-battery-chargers/pronauticp-series/)
 and a galvanic isolator to keep the zinc from being used by the neighbors. 
Sometimes in the summer I get lazy and don’t feel like stringing the shore 
power cord, so I’ll just put my 50 watt solar panel out instead. In the winter 
the shore power also runs a cabin heater and the telemetry system I use to keep 
track of the battery voltage and cabin temperature.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I
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Stus-List C 37 question

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Curious:
How many types of C 37s are there?
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto.  The 120 volt receptacles on Touche' are on a rotary switch for
either shore power or inverter.  The inverter cannot be connected to
anything else.

Specifically, the feed to the receptacle breaker is switched so the breaker
remains in the circuit regardless of whether they are supplied by shore
power or the inverter.

The remainder of the AC panel is fed exclusively by shore power.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 1:50 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I usually wire inverters to not supply the battery charger and water
> heater.
>
> You may want to change your AC wiring to do this.
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ron
> Ricci via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:41 PM
> *To:* 'C List'
> *Cc:* Ron Ricci
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot water tank
>
>
>
> My boat has a combination 120 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water
> heater.  It holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on the
> battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is consistent with the
> unit’s rating as the battery voltage dropped below 12 VDC when tried.
> Since my alternator can only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are
> only #4 AWG, running the heater  with shore power does not seem practical.
> I do not normally have AC shore power.  To prevent inadvertently turning on
> the heater, I disconnected the power feed at the circuit breaker.
>
>
>
> The engine coolant part of the heater works great.  We can run the engine
> in the afternoon to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is
> plenty of hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick showers.
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Interesting question.

 

I took a cursory look at the data on Sailboatdata.com and only see one model 
37, available as std, CB, and SD models. Then there is a listing for a 37-2 and 
the 37/40, but both of these are 39.5 feet long.

 

But I got curious when I looked at the rig and interior layout drawings for the 
37. The interior layout appears to be the same as my 38-2, and the only 
difference in appearance is the front of the coach house on the 37 has a flat 
face (like a LF38, which went into production at the same time as the 37), 
where the coach house on the 38-2 tapers into the foredeck. And the production 
on the 37 started just when the 38-2 stopped. 

 

So here is a bit of data:

 

Model LOA   Production

38-1 37.5873-75

38-2 37.5875-80?

37 S/CB/SD37.5881-86

38-3 S/CB/SD/WK 37.5585-?

37-2 S/CB/SD/WK 39.5088

37/40 +/R/XL 39.5088/89

 

Looking at brochures on the Photo Album, the 37 has some amenities the 38 
doesn’t like an anchor locker. And the deck has styling similar to the 35-3, 
38-3, and the 37/40 series with the glued in portlights and recesses in the 
cabin sides aft of the portlights. The interior, however is virtually identical 
to the 38-2.

 

I’m wondering if the 37 was a transitional model – sort of a 38 mk2.5 – that 
bridged the transition to the hull shapes and interior layouts you find in the 
later boats like the 38-3 and the 37/40+/R/XL. Can anyone confirm my hypothesis?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 3:40 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List C 37 question

 

Curious:

How many types of C 37s are there?

Joe

Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I keep my Truecharge 20+ on all the time.  I run the refrigeration from the
12v batteries and need to keep them topped off.  No issues with doing this
over the years.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:46 PM
To: C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Shore Power Question

 

Listers,

 

When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on or
do you use it temporarily as needed? 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 











 






 

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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

those are 1.8 gpm (some ill guided federal law).  Still barely adequate.  0.5 
gpm would be a fast drip...

Leslie.
just went through an inspection routine here in SoCal.  The city is getting 
really picky...


On Wed, 9/2/15, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Danny Haughey" 
 Date: Wednesday, September 2, 2015, 1:28 PM
 
 you won't, trust
 me!
  
 People want like 10 gals a minute to feel a luxurious
 shower.  those water saver heads are like .5 gals per
 minute and nobody "likes" those!  LOL
 
 -- Original Message
 --
 From: Jim Watts via CnC-List
 
 To: 1 CnC List
 
 Cc: Jim Watts
 
 Subject: Re:
 Stus-List Hot water tank
 Date: Wed, 2 Sep
 2015 13:03:35 -0700
 
 
 The big downside to the instant water
 heaters, besides the electrical draw, is the total
 temperature rise. That unit provides a 32 degree temp rise
 at .35 gpm, dropping to 24 degree rise at .5 gpm, so the
 more flow the cooler it gets. So you can get the water from
 60 to 92 if you can live with a quart a minute flow. Try
 that at home and see if you like it...
 
 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C 35 Mk
 III
 Victoria, BC
 
 
 
 On 2 September 2015 at
 11:50, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 I usually wire inverters to not
 supply the battery charger and water heater.
 You may want to change your AC
 wiring to do this.
  Joe
 Coquina
  
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Ron Ricci via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, September
 02, 2015 1:41 PM
  To:
 'C List'
  Cc:
 Ron Ricci
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water
 tank
 
 
  
 My boat has a combination 120
 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water heater.  It
 holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on
 the battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is
 consistent with the unit’s rating as the battery voltage
 dropped below 12 VDC when tried.  Since my alternator can
 only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are only #4 AWG,
 running the heater  with shore power does not seem
 practical.  I do not normally have AC shore power.  To
 prevent inadvertently turning on the heater, I disconnected
 the power feed at the circuit breaker.
 
 
  
 The engine coolant part of the
 heater works great.  We can run the engine in the afternoon
 to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is
 plenty of hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick
 showers.
  
  
 Regards,
 Ron
 Ron Ricci
 S/V Patriot
 C 37+
 Bristol, RI
 ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

It's all about how you use your boat. I weekend on my boat and only plug into 
shore power when I'm there. When I arrive, I power up my charger, air 
conditioning, TV etc. My marina slip contract allows power when the skipper is 
aboard, but charges more for people who use power 24/7. Most other boats are 
always plugged in while at the dock. Most of them have a charger drawing very 
little. Several boats have their HVAC running all the time, as I see the pumps 
going. 

Unplugging shorepower is part of my prep to leave the boat. 
I don't have a fridge. I use a cooler to transport things from home to the 
boat, and buy ice. Before leaving the boat, I transfer leftover beer, milk, 
coldcuts, to my portable cooler, pump the box dry, (PO setup a foot pump to 
pump ice box water into a sink and overboard) I dump any ice overboard, and 
sponge out the ice box and leave the lid open to air out. Sounds more 
complicated than it is, and really easy to do so I get: No mildew, no funny 
smells. 

I don't leave shorepower plugged in when sailing either. Many boaters when they 
go out, keep the cord plugged in at their slip and only disconnect from their 
own boat. This leaves a cord powered up and a potential problem should it fall 
into the water. I remove the cord and stow below. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "cenelson"  
Sent: Wednesday, September 2, 2015 2:27:19 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question 

I used to leave the shore power/battery charger on all the time to keep the 
batteries topped off and to make up for occassional bilge pump cycling. 
Then one day I got to the boat and the bilge pump was not working and the 
batteries were dead. It likely had been on for some time since the pump switch 
failed IIRC. 
This caused the charger to be on continually which it did not like (True Charge 
40?). If fact it smoked a resister in the charger, 
which was evident by the black burn mark on it that I could see. Thanks to that 
and the bad float switch, the batteries were dead. 
If the charger had not failed (perhaps it was designed that way), the charger 
may have caught on fire, along with the boat. 
I have NEVER left the charger on when I am away from the boat, except for a day 
or two, since that happened. 
Getting to the boat with drained batteries is a minor inconvenience--getting a 
call from the fire department could ruin your whole day! 
Charlie Nelson 
Water Phantom 
C 36 XL/kcb 


cenel...@aol.com 


-Original Message- 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List  
To: cnc-list  
Cc: Frederick G Street  
Sent: Wed, Sep 2, 2015 1:50 pm 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question 

Edd — I have it on when I’m at the boat, but shut it off when I leave. There’s 
plenty of battery capacity for the occasional bilge pump cycle. I do NOT have 
DC refrigeration, but rather an AC-powered holding plate system. I do leave 
that on all the time when connected to shore power. If my fridge were 
DC-powered, then I’d leave the charger on full-time; it would be needed to keep 
the fridge from flattening the batteries. 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 




On Sep 2, 2015, at 12:46 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 

When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on or do 
you use it temporarily as needed? 




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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I find the 37 to be a very attractive boat, same hull lines as the 35mkIII and 
the 29 mkII. Very well balanced. Same with the 33 mkII and the 41 and 44, all 
in the same family of hulls. and the 40 would be with the 34 I would think?

I've always found the 38 mkIII to have a bit too much volume (round belly) at 
the beam, but still a nice looking boat.

I have spent so much time reading the different brochures on the cncphotoalbum 
comparing boats,but it' been a while now.

Bruno Lachance
Becassine, 33mkII, former 29mkII owner.
new Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 2015-09-02 à 23:10, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Andy,
> 
> Would you say that the 37 is more like the 40?  It appears so in the interior 
> and deck layouts on sailboatdata.com.  It seems that they are from the same 
> era and product line.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Sep 2, 2015 10:42 PM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> The 37 has a very different hull shape from the 38s. She is shorter in the 
>> ends, and has a little less spring to the sheer and a bit more freeboard, 
>> though still a very attractive boat. Underwater she concedes a lot less to 
>> the IOR, with a very fair hull shape and only a little bustle aft by the 
>> rudder. In plan form the stern is much less "pinched" that the 38.
>> 
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI 
>> USA02840
>> 
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>> 
>>> On Sep 2, 2015, at 21:31, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Interesting question.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I took a cursory look at the data on Sailboatdata.com and only see one 
>>> model 37, available as std, CB, and SD models. Then there is a listing for 
>>> a 37-2 and the 37/40, but both of these are 39.5 feet long.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> But I got curious when I looked at the rig and interior layout drawings for 
>>> the 37. The interior layout appears to be the same as my 38-2, and the only 
>>> difference in appearance is the front of the coach house on the 37 has a 
>>> flat face (like a LF38, which went into production at the same time as the 
>>> 37), where the coach house on the 38-2 tapers into the foredeck. And the 
>>> production on the 37 started just when the 38-2 stopped.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> So here is a bit of data:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Model LOA   Production
>>> 
>>> 38-1 37.5873-75
>>> 
>>> 38-2 37.5875-80?
>>> 
>>> 37 S/CB/SD37.5881-86
>>> 
>>> 38-3 S/CB/SD/WK 37.5585-?
>>> 
>>> 37-2 S/CB/SD/WK 39.5088
>>> 
>>> 37/40 +/R/XL 39.5088/89
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Looking at brochures on the Photo Album, the 37 has some amenities the 38 
>>> doesn’t like an anchor locker. And the deck has styling similar to the 
>>> 35-3, 38-3, and the 37/40 series with the glued in portlights and recesses 
>>> in the cabin sides aft of the portlights. The interior, however is 
>>> virtually identical to the 38-2.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I’m wondering if the 37 was a transitional model – sort of a 38 mk2.5 – 
>>> that bridged the transition to the hull shapes and interior layouts you 
>>> find in the later boats like the 38-3 and the 37/40+/R/XL. Can anyone 
>>> confirm my hypothesis?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Rick Brass
>>> 
>>> Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
>>> 
>>> la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
>>> 
>>> Washington, NC
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
>>> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 3:40 PM
>>> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
>>> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
>>> Subject: Stus-List C 37 question
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Curious:
>>> 
>>> How many types of C 37s are there?
>>> 
>>> Joe
>>> 
>>> Coquina
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
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>> 
>> ___
>> 
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> 

Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

The 37 has a very different hull shape from the 38s. She is shorter in the 
ends, and has a little less spring to the sheer and a bit more freeboard, 
though still a very attractive boat. Underwater she concedes a lot less to the 
IOR, with a very fair hull shape and only a little bustle aft by the rudder. In 
plan form the stern is much less "pinched" that the 38.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Sep 2, 2015, at 21:31, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Interesting question.
>  
> I took a cursory look at the data on Sailboatdata.com and only see one model 
> 37, available as std, CB, and SD models. Then there is a listing for a 37-2 
> and the 37/40, but both of these are 39.5 feet long.
>  
> But I got curious when I looked at the rig and interior layout drawings for 
> the 37. The interior layout appears to be the same as my 38-2, and the only 
> difference in appearance is the front of the coach house on the 37 has a flat 
> face (like a LF38, which went into production at the same time as the 37), 
> where the coach house on the 38-2 tapers into the foredeck. And the 
> production on the 37 started just when the 38-2 stopped.
>  
> So here is a bit of data:
>  
> Model LOA   Production
> 38-1 37.5873-75
> 38-2 37.5875-80?
> 37 S/CB/SD37.5881-86
> 38-3 S/CB/SD/WK 37.5585-?
> 37-2 S/CB/SD/WK 39.5088
> 37/40 +/R/XL 39.5088/89
>  
> Looking at brochures on the Photo Album, the 37 has some amenities the 38 
> doesn’t like an anchor locker. And the deck has styling similar to the 35-3, 
> 38-3, and the 37/40 series with the glued in portlights and recesses in the 
> cabin sides aft of the portlights. The interior, however is virtually 
> identical to the 38-2.
>  
> I’m wondering if the 37 was a transitional model – sort of a 38 mk2.5 – that 
> bridged the transition to the hull shapes and interior layouts you find in 
> the later boats like the 38-3 and the 37/40+/R/XL. Can anyone confirm my 
> hypothesis?
>  
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
> la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 3:40 PM
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Stus-List C 37 question
>  
> Curious:
> How many types of C 37s are there?
> Joe
> Coquina
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Andy,

Would you say that the 37 is more like the 40?  It appears so in the
interior and deck layouts on sailboatdata.com.  It seems that they are from
the same era and product line.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 2, 2015 10:42 PM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> The 37 has a very different hull shape from the 38s. She is shorter in the
> ends, and has a little less spring to the sheer and a bit more freeboard,
> though still a very attractive boat. Underwater she concedes a lot less to
> the IOR, with a very fair hull shape and only a little bustle aft by the
> rudder. In plan form the stern is much less "pinched" that the 38.
>
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Sep 2, 2015, at 21:31, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Interesting question.
>
>
>
> I took a cursory look at the data on Sailboatdata.com and only see one
> model 37, available as std, CB, and SD models. Then there is a listing for
> a 37-2 and the 37/40, but both of these are 39.5 feet long.
>
>
>
> But I got curious when I looked at the rig and interior layout drawings
> for the 37. The interior layout appears to be the same as my 38-2, and the
> only difference in appearance is the front of the coach house on the 37 has
> a flat face (like a LF38, which went into production at the same time as
> the 37), where the coach house on the 38-2 tapers into the foredeck. And
> the production on the 37 started just when the 38-2 stopped.
>
>
>
> So here is a bit of data:
>
>
>
> Model LOA   Production
>
> 38-1 37.5873-75
>
> 38-2 37.5875-80?
>
> 37 S/CB/SD37.5881-86
>
> 38-3 S/CB/SD/WK 37.5585-?
>
> 37-2 S/CB/SD/WK 39.5088
>
> 37/40 +/R/XL 39.5088/89
>
>
>
> Looking at brochures on the Photo Album, the 37 has some amenities the 38
> doesn’t like an anchor locker. And the deck has styling similar to the
> 35-3, 38-3, and the 37/40 series with the glued in portlights and recesses
> in the cabin sides aft of the portlights. The interior, however is
> virtually identical to the 38-2.
>
>
>
> I’m wondering if the 37 was a transitional model – sort of a 38 mk2.5 –
> that bridged the transition to the hull shapes and interior layouts you
> find in the later boats like the 38-3 and the 37/40+/R/XL. Can anyone
> confirm my hypothesis?
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Della Barba, Joe via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 02, 2015 3:40 PM
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 37 question
>
>
>
> Curious:
>
> How many types of C 37s are there?
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I got an automatic switch from West Marine that switches back and forth 
depending on the presence of shore power.
You ever see an inverter power a battery charger? The charger is not 100% 
efficient and neither is the inverter, so making an endless loop with the 
inverter powering itself with the charger will always run the batteries dead.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 4:07 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

Ditto.  The 120 volt receptacles on Touche' are on a rotary switch for either 
shore power or inverter.  The inverter cannot be connected to anything else.
Specifically, the feed to the receptacle breaker is switched so the breaker 
remains in the circuit regardless of whether they are supplied by shore power 
or the inverter.
The remainder of the AC panel is fed exclusively by shore power.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 1:50 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I usually wire inverters to not supply the battery charger and water heater.
You may want to change your AC wiring to do this.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Ron Ricci via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:41 PM
To: 'C List'
Cc: Ron Ricci
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

My boat has a combination 120 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water 
heater.  It holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on the 
battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is consistent with the unit’s 
rating as the battery voltage dropped below 12 VDC when tried.  Since my 
alternator can only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are only #4 AWG, 
running the heater  with shore power does not seem practical.  I do not 
normally have AC shore power.  To prevent inadvertently turning on the heater, 
I disconnected the power feed at the circuit breaker.

The engine coolant part of the heater works great.  We can run the engine in 
the afternoon to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is plenty of 
hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick showers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com





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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… so the more flow the cooler it gets..

On Calypso we went overkill for domestic hot water as we wanted to cruise 3 
seasons in the PNW.  We use our Webasto diesel furnace as a boiler supplying 
hot water to a Everhot water heater.  The domestic water flows through 4 to 5 
gallons of very hot water in copper tubing.  When the system is running at full 
speed we can supply as much hot water as there is water in the tanks.  The 
system is heavy and requires extra space but it has been reliable and worth the 
effort.  Even in summer there have been times it was nice to take the chill off 
the cabin at the same time as making hot water for dishes.  We do have a 
“summer” valve that directs the boiler output only to the Everhot keeping the 
cabin heat exchangers cool.

We also have an engine/110 heater 4 gallon hot water heater to make use of the 
engine’s waste heat. Our domestic water manifold allows us to direct the flow 
of cold water based on which system is being used.  If we decide to take the 
boat back to a pure race boat much of the cabin and domestic water heating 
system would need to be removed to save weight.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:04 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

The big downside to the instant water heaters, besides the electrical draw, is 
the total temperature rise. That unit provides a 32 degree temp rise at .35 
gpm, dropping to 24 degree rise at .5 gpm, so the more flow the cooler it gets. 
So you can get the water from 60 to 92 if you can live with a quart a minute 
flow. Try that at home and see if you like it...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'm always on since i keep the fridge on.  Otherwise there is no need and
in fact good reason to disconnect the shore power cable during extended
absences.  Keeping the shore power connected means you have more potential
for fire and more likelihood of losing your zincs to the stray galvanic
currents of the marina and other boats.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 2, 2015 1:46 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on
> or do you use it temporarily as needed?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mike — IF your charger is set up completely correct as far as the charging 
regimen for the batteries you’ve got, and IF  your batteries are in good shape 
and have the proper level of electrolyte, then you could probably leave the 
charger on all the time.  It should go into “float” charging mode after the 
batteries are topped off.  If, however, there are any issues with any of the 
above, you might cook off your electrolyte and kill your batteries.

If you’ve got DC refrigeration (you and I don’t…), that should pull enough 
current to keep the batteries from getting over-charged.

In my case, the only DC current draw my system has got when away from the boat 
comes from the bilge pump, and the “stay-alive” lead to the stereo; not enough 
to seriously deplete the batteries when I’m away.  So I leave the charger off 
for safety (although it IS set up properly for my batteries).

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 2, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Fred
>  
> Does it hurt to keep the battery charger on?  I also have the AC powered 
> frost plate system for refrigeration.  Charger is Xantrex Truecharge 40+ 
> multistage charger
>  
> Mike

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Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Edd- I was at Block Island last week Monday and motored past a white C+ 
at a mooring.  The rear steps were down so I could only see the first few 
letters of the name Ho……  I went past a few times and never saw anyone to say 
hello.  Any idea whose boat it is?  I was going to invite them to the event, 
but did not know how to find the owner.  Dave

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

One, as far as I know. The 37/40's are not really 37's at all.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 September 2015 at 12:40, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Curious:
>
> How many types of C 37s are there?
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

The big downside to the instant water heaters, besides the electrical draw,
is the total temperature rise. That unit provides a 32 degree temp rise at
.35 gpm, dropping to 24 degree rise at .5 gpm, so the more flow the cooler
it gets. So you can get the water from 60 to 92 if you can live with a
quart a minute flow. Try that at home and see if you like it...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 September 2015 at 11:50, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I usually wire inverters to not supply the battery charger and water
> heater.
>
> You may want to change your AC wiring to do this.
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ron
> Ricci via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:41 PM
> *To:* 'C List'
> *Cc:* Ron Ricci
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot water tank
>
>
>
> My boat has a combination 120 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water
> heater.  It holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on the
> battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is consistent with the
> unit’s rating as the battery voltage dropped below 12 VDC when tried.
> Since my alternator can only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are
> only #4 AWG, running the heater  with shore power does not seem practical.
> I do not normally have AC shore power.  To prevent inadvertently turning on
> the heater, I disconnected the power feed at the circuit breaker.
>
>
>
> The engine coolant part of the heater works great.  We can run the engine
> in the afternoon to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is
> plenty of hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick showers.
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List C 37 question

[William Hall via CnC-List]

There's Centerboard and Fixed Keel versions...

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> One, as far as I know. The 37/40's are not really 37's at all.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 2 September 2015 at 12:40, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Curious:
>>
>> How many types of C 37s are there?
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

you won't, trust me! People want like 10 gals a minute to feel a luxurious 
shower.  those water saver heads are like .5 gals per minute and nobody "likes" 
those!  LOL

-- Original Message --
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2015 13:03:35 -0700


The big downside to the instant water heaters, besides the electrical draw, is 
the total temperature rise. That unit provides a 32 degree temp rise at .35 
gpm, dropping to 24 degree rise at .5 gpm, so the more flow the cooler it gets. 
So you can get the water from 60 to 92 if you can live with a quart a minute 
flow. Try that at home and see if you like it...Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 2 September 2015 at 11:50, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I usually wire inverters to not supply the battery charger and water heater.
You may want to change your AC wiring to do this.
 Joe
Coquina
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci 
via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:41 PM
 To: 'C List'
 Cc: Ron Ricci
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank
 
My boat has a combination 120 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water 
heater.  It holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on the 
battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is consistent with the 
units rating as the battery voltage dropped below 12 VDC when tried.  
Since my alternator can only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are only #4 
AWG, running the heater  with shore power does not seem practical.  I do not 
normally have AC shore power.  To prevent inadvertently turning on the heater, 
I disconnected the power feed at the circuit breaker.
 
The engine coolant part of the heater works great.  We can run the engine in 
the afternoon to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is plenty of 
hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick showers.
 
 
Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
 
 
 
 

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Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

David,

Sorry — I reached out to every club and C in the area I knew, but that boat 
doesn’t ring a bell at all. We do have 10 boats though (so far)

Besides, I think in Block Island, they go by the name “escort”, not “ho”. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On Sep 2, 2015, at 2:53 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Edd- I was at Block Island last week Monday and motored past a white 
> C+ at a mooring.  The rear steps were down so I could only see the first 
> few letters of the name Ho……  I went past a few times and never saw anyone to 
> say hello.  Any idea whose boat it is?  I was going to invite them to the 
> event, but did not know how to find the owner.  Dave
> 
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> Core Microscopy Facility Director
> University of Connecticut 
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269
> 860-486-2200
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[svpegasus38]

EddBeing a liveaboard, I keep the charger on full time. It goes into float 
mode and every 21 days iy sends a healthy charge to the batteries. By the way 
it is a True Charge 40amp. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Date: Wed, Sep 2, 
2015 10:46To: C List;Cc: Edd Schillay;Subject:Stus-List Shore Power Question
Listers,
When connected to shore power, do you keep your battery charger always on or do 
you use it temporarily as needed? 

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log










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Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Count me in the camp of NO! The only thing that runs when I’m not on the boat 
is the bilge pump (very small pump at that). I go so far as disconnecting the 
shore power cord. My battery monitor has yet to record 1 amp of consumed power 
per month and that is with a stuffing box that was dripping constantly.
James
Delaney
1976 C 38 mk 11
Oriental, NC


From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 2:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shore Power Question

Mike — IF your charger is set up completely correct as far as the charging 
regimen for the batteries you’ve got, and IF  your batteries are in good shape 
and have the proper level of electrolyte, then you could probably leave the 
charger on all the time.  It should go into “float” charging mode after the 
batteries are topped off.  If, however, there are any issues with any of the 
above, you might cook off your electrolyte and kill your batteries. 

If you’ve got DC refrigeration (you and I don’t…), that should pull enough 
current to keep the batteries from getting over-charged.

In my case, the only DC current draw my system has got when away from the boat 
comes from the bilge pump, and the “stay-alive” lead to the stereo; not enough 
to seriously deplete the batteries when I’m away.  So I leave the charger off 
for safety (although it IS set up properly for my batteries).


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

  On Sep 2, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Fred

  Does it hurt to keep the battery charger on?  I also have the AC powered 
frost plate system for refrigeration.  Charger is Xantrex Truecharge 40+ 
multistage charger

  Mike




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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Many yachts owned by Congressmen are wired that way.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 3:10 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I got an automatic switch from West Marine that switches back and forth
> depending on the presence of shore power.
>
> You ever see an inverter power a battery charger? The charger is not 100%
> efficient and neither is the inverter, so making an endless loop with the
> inverter powering itself with the charger will always run the batteries
> dead.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 02, 2015 4:07 PM
> *To:* CnClist
> *Cc:* Dennis C.
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot water tank
>
>
>
> Ditto.  The 120 volt receptacles on Touche' are on a rotary switch for
> either shore power or inverter.  The inverter cannot be connected to
> anything else.
>
> Specifically, the feed to the receptacle breaker is switched so the
> breaker remains in the circuit regardless of whether they are supplied by
> shore power or the inverter.
>
> The remainder of the AC panel is fed exclusively by shore power.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 1:50 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I usually wire inverters to not supply the battery charger and water
> heater.
>
> You may want to change your AC wiring to do this.
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ron
> Ricci via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:41 PM
> *To:* 'C List'
> *Cc:* Ron Ricci
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot water tank
>
>
>
> My boat has a combination 120 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water
> heater.  It holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on the
> battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is consistent with the
> unit’s rating as the battery voltage dropped below 12 VDC when tried.
> Since my alternator can only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are
> only #4 AWG, running the heater  with shore power does not seem practical.
> I do not normally have AC shore power.  To prevent inadvertently turning on
> the heater, I disconnected the power feed at the circuit breaker.
>
>
>
> The engine coolant part of the heater works great.  We can run the engine
> in the afternoon to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is
> plenty of hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick showers.
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

I did buy the upgraded alternator with the Beta Engine (120amp). The idea was 
that, if needed, a warm shower could be taken and my wife could use her hair 
dryer if the engine is running. These would be rare circumstances though since 
when we do extended cruises, we like to be dockside. 

On shore power, it would be perfect. (I hope)

Will let you know how it all works once I get it all hooked up — probably for 
the 2016 season. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Sep 2, 2015, at 10:38 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I did some rough math and it looks like you'll need ~38Ahrs of power for a 15 
> minute shower.  Your inverter will be drawing 150amps through the supply 
> wires and your alternator would have to recharge that amount.  With the stock 
> alternator (35amps) it would take over and hour.  I do think I remember you 
> having an upgraded alternator.  Of course the assumption was that the hot 
> water was at full flow for the 15 minute duration.
> 
> The instant waterheater is just a resistive load.  It would be more efficient 
> and possibly safer to eliminate the inverter from the picture.  It would take 
> some electrical and electronics skills to re-engineer the unit to run on 12v 
> instead of 120v.
> 
> That new water heater really is shockingly smaller.  You'll have to let us 
> know how it turns out.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Aug 31, 2015 10:15 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> My hot water tank was failing as well and I’m in the middle of putting in a 
> replacement — the hard part was getting the old one out of the tight space 
> under the galley. 
> 
> I decided to go with an on-demand water heater which will either be powered 
> by shore power or an inverter (2000W) while the engine is running. Here’s the 
> one I picked: 
> http://m.rakuten.com/product/263816304?listingid=337903396=29963=pla_google_Zoro
>  
> 
>  
> 
> And here is old and new side-by-side: 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/heaters.jpg 
>  
> 
> I’ll try to finish it up over the next couple of weeks, but if not, it’ll be 
> a quick winter project. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I did some rough math and it looks like you'll need ~38Ahrs of power for a
15 minute shower.  Your inverter will be drawing 150amps through the supply
wires and your alternator would have to recharge that amount.  With the
stock alternator (35amps) it would take over and hour.  I do think I
remember you having an upgraded alternator.  Of course the assumption was
that the hot water was at full flow for the 15 minute duration.

The instant waterheater is just a resistive load.  It would be more
efficient and possibly safer to eliminate the inverter from the picture.
It would take some electrical and electronics skills to re-engineer the
unit to run on 12v instead of 120v.

That new water heater really is shockingly smaller.  You'll have to let us
know how it turns out.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 31, 2015 10:15 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My hot water tank was failing as well and I’m in the middle of putting in
> a replacement — the hard part was getting the old one out of the tight
> space under the galley.
>
> I decided to go with an on-demand water heater which will either be
> powered by shore power or an inverter (2000W) while the engine is running.
> Here’s the one I picked:
> http://m.rakuten.com/product/263816304?listingid=337903396=29963=pla_google_Zoro
>
>
> And here is old and new side-by-side:
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/heaters.jpg
>
> I’ll try to finish it up over the next couple of weeks, but if not, it’ll
> be a quick winter project.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2015, at 11:13 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> In most of the little hot water tanks the anode is part of the hot water
> outlet nipple.  Follow the link for pictures of the tank rebuild I did.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Aug 30, 2015 10:26 AM, "phorvati . via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> And make sure you have zinc anodes.  Electrolysis will eat something.
>> On Aug 29, 2015 8:51 PM, "Jim Watts via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Put a meter on it and read what kind of voltage you are getting. 110V AC
>>> does not generally give little shocks.
>>>
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>>
>>> On 29 August 2015 at 16:15, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>

 I'm working my way down my project list and finally got to my hot water
 tank.  The PO just told me that it didn't work.  I was getting 120V at the
 heating element so I checked the element and it was fried.

 I installed a new element and turned it on for a test. Got hot water
 after about 10 min, so I went to close everything up. But when I was doing
 that I touched the pressure relief valve and got a small shock.

 The green ground wire runs to one of the mouting bolts on the heating
 element and also to the water tank frame. So that seems ok. I also checked
 for continuity between the hot and neutral wires and the relief valve or
 frame and got none.

 So i'm puzzled. The shock wasn't big, but i definitely felt something.
 Any ideas???

 Thanks,

 Mike
 Atacama 33 mk ii
 Toronto
 Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
 Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de
 Bell.
 ___

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