Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I have always used rings on turnbuclkes, they are much quicker to adjust and 
less likely to cause wounds, but the last few years have had trouble getting 
good ones. The wire is too soft and winds up getting mangled. Chinese junk I 
suppose, but the local marinas don't have a better source. 
Anyone found a source with decent quality online?

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Jake Brodersen 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 06:53
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned


  David,

   

  I use rings in most places on my boat.  No issues.  It makes it easy to 
adjust the rigging often.

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

  Hampton VA

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
Knecht via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 22:12
  To: CnC CnC discussion list
  Cc: David Knecht
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

   

  I saw a boat recently which had large cotter rings through the turnbuckles 
instead of cotter pins.  This looked like a great idea to me as I sometimes 
find it difficult to get bent cotter pins back out of the turnbuckles.  Any 
down side of using rings instead of pins?  Dave

   

  On Oct 27, 2015, at 8:07 PM, David Paine via CnC-List  
wrote:





   



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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My rigger will not use rings.  Says pins are safer.  Johnson makes pins
with velcro straps for easy removal.  You could make your own with some
velcro and whipping thread.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 8:11 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Had rings in the shroud turnbuckles on my previous boat. Was awakened one
> night by a gentle whacking coming from a galley cabinet. A search
> discovered nothing.
>
> They next morning just before getting underway I noticed a lower shroud
> bouncing against the cabin side.  On the deck were the Clevis pin and its
> cotter ring.
>
> I use cotter keys now.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 27, 2015, at 9:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I saw a boat recently which had large cotter rings through the turnbuckles
> instead of cotter pins.  This looked like a great idea to me as I sometimes
> find it difficult to get bent cotter pins back out of the turnbuckles.  Any
> down side of using rings instead of pins?  Dave
>
> On Oct 27, 2015, at 8:07 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Answers for Patrick:
>>
>> > 3)
>> Is the exhaust hose looped up?  Yes but not enough.  Usually there is a
>> flapper valve on the exhaust but the reverse transom angle and the angled
>> cut of the exhaust make commercial ones unusable.
>>
>> 4) Does your fuel tank vent line not have a check valve in it?  (1-way
>> valve to allow air egress but prevent water ingress)  Or was the check
>> valve not working?
>>
>
> No check valve and in any case, a check valve allows flow of air or water
> in only one direction.  If it were put in correctly the fuel couldn't get
> out but displacement air and water could.
>
>>
>> 9) What do you mean by "wire" a turnbuckle?  Did your turnbuckles not
>> have cotter pins in them on the upper stays?  (Is running without pins
>> actually something people do??)
>>
>
> Heck yeah, who uses cotter pins?  I use stainless steel wire through the
> hole in both screws and through the body of the turnbuckle..  Cheap and
> easy.
>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 11:51 AM,  wrote:
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: David Paine 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc:
>>> Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 14:50:37 -0400
>>> Subject: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had
>>> planned to sail  my C  solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in
>>> the Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was fun, it was terrifying, it was
>>> expensive to prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl)
>>> in my class in part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf stream
>>> probably favored the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my class but mostly
>>> because I was climbing a steep learning curve.   Of course, a C won
>>> the return and did well on the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor
>>> not the boat.  In preparation for the next one, I need to resolve a few
>>> issues with the boat and a lot with the skipper.  I was putting together a
>>> list that I thought I would share.
>>>
>>> (1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I thought my
>>> below deck pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a result I found myself
>>> upside down in the cockpit locker and crawling deep underneath the cockpit
>>> floor in horrible conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm
>>> to slip (no woodruff key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of time
>>> bobbing around with the sails down repairing the autopilot or sleeping.
>>> The fix for this one is obvious but will require dismantling the quadrant
>>> and figuring out how to bolt the tiller arm to it.  Other issues with the
>>> autopilot were completely my own fault as I made changes to the electronics
>>> but did not have time to proof test the changes.
>>>
>>> (2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did
>>> repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good
>>> as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or
>>> creating a waterproof cover.
>>>
>>> (3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and into the
>>> engine.  As a result, I sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the customs
>>> dock then I spent a day in Bermuda sucking water out of the engine and
>>> drying it out enough to get it started.   For the return trip, I put a plug
>>> in the exhaust pipe but the plug was washed out in the "washing machine
>>> like conditions" and ... we got to sail the boat into the Newport Yacht
>>> Club dock at 3:00 am on no sleep.  Then spend another day pumping oily
>>> water out of the engine.  Yeah, slow learner.
>>>
>>> (4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but
>>> by the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I
>>> 

Stus-List Signal K interface

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Just spent $200 on a flyer:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin

If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[John Russo via CnC-List]

My experience with hydro lock is to avoid it by putting the bucket in the 
locker below the cockpit and at engine level so excess water is not forced due 
to gravity into the engine when the pump is not operating.

 

John Russo

Arpeggio C 32

Norwalk,CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 11:56 PM
To: C List
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

 

My experience is like this :

 

- if the pump works properly, the 6 ft hose I use from the bucket in the 
cockpit fills reasonably quicklying and there are no issues. 

- one year it didn't work and I tried priming the hose. it was that time when I 
managed to hydrolock the engine. It also turned out that the Impeller had no 
vanes left.

 

When I replaced the impeller the pump primed itself in no time. Of course, this 
was after removing water from the engine. 

 

Marek 

 

 

 

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.



 Original message 
From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-10-27 22:27 (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnC CnC discussion list  
Cc: David Knecht  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked! 

I am trying to reconcile this discussion with my winterizing experience last 
year.  I use a bucket of antifreeze in the cockpit and run a tube to the raw 
water intake inlet outside the hull.  I did not see any water draw before I 
started the engine (or after) so even with that pressure head, I did not seem 
to be pushing water into the engine.   Last year, it seemed to take a long time 
for the water to begin being sucked through from the bucket.  At the time, I 
attributed this to it taking a while for the engine to warm up and the 
thermostat open.  But now, when I look at the engine info I have, it looks like 
the thermostat is on the antifreeze circulating path, not on the raw water 
path.  So why would there have been a delay in the draw from the bucket?  Dave

 

On Oct 26, 2015, at 10:29 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:





Dave,

 

good thinking!

 

Since the water came from behind (exhaust side), and you did not turn the 
engine, there was a good chance that you would be able to suck most of it the 
same way.

 

However, I would not put too much faith in your impeller. If the impeller is 
good, the pump should prime from the cockpit (no need to pour any water into 
the hose). If it did not prime on its own, it means that it is not working 
properly. The impeller may look good, but it may slip on the shaft or the 
pulley (the v-belt) is slipping. I would be afraid that this may create some 
cooling problems. There is nothing you need to do for the winter, but I would 
think hard on addressing this before the next season.

 

When you do your feed bucket method, do you have a shut off valve at the hose 
from the bucket to the engine? If you don’t, adding it helps a lot, as you can 
shut off the water (AF) feed from the cockpit and turn the engine off, when the 
water is pumped out of the hose.

 

Btw. If you don’t like the idea of having any head of water in front of the 
water pump, you can try a method with a bucket on the ground and a hose leading 
from the bucket to the raw water intake throughhull. You can cut a thread on 
the inside of that throughhull and screw in a barbed nipple into it. The Good 
Old Boat Nov/Dec 2014 issue had an article on that. I have a scanned PDF if you 
are interested.

 

Marek

 

From: davepulaski via CnC-List   

Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 3:40 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: davepulaski   

Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

 

Good news!

 

I was able to resolve the hydrolock with no apparent ill effect on the engine!  
It was quite an easy fix as well, didn't even need to mess with the injectors.

 

Here's what I did, following a suggestion of someone on this thread:

 

I disconnected the exhaust hose from the manifold and connected my shop vac to 
the header outlet.   Then, with the vac running and all three decompression 
levers open, I turned the engine by hand a few times from the main pulley, then 
spun it a bit with the starter motor.

 

After closing the decompression levers, reconnecting the exhaust and setting up 
my water feed bucket - this time in the aft cabin and NOT up in the cockpit - I 
went for ignition.  It fired up more readily than I expected, and ran great 
with no new vibrations or noises.  The raw water pump impeller was completely 
intact and looked like new.

 

The oil was a little milky so I changed that twice, ran the motor for a while 
to get it up to temp, then finally winterized it from the bucket.

 

Hooray for a lesson learned without injury or great expense. 

 

 

Thanks for all the advice guys!

 

-Dave

 

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2 

Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Had rings in the shroud turnbuckles on my previous boat. Was awakened one night 
by a gentle whacking coming from a galley cabinet. A search discovered nothing. 

They next morning just before getting underway I noticed a lower shroud 
bouncing against the cabin side.  On the deck were the Clevis pin and its 
cotter ring.

I use cotter keys now. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 27, 2015, at 9:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I saw a boat recently which had large cotter rings through the turnbuckles 
> instead of cotter pins.  This looked like a great idea to me as I sometimes 
> find it difficult to get bent cotter pins back out of the turnbuckles.  Any 
> down side of using rings instead of pins?  Dave
> 
> On Oct 27, 2015, at 8:07 PM, David Paine via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>>> Answers for Patrick:
>>> 
>>> > 3) 
>>> Is the exhaust hose looped up?  Yes but not enough.  Usually there is a 
>>> flapper valve on the exhaust but the reverse transom angle and the angled 
>>> cut of the exhaust make commercial ones unusable.
>>> 
>>> 4) Does your fuel tank vent line not have a check valve in it?  (1-way 
>>> valve to allow air egress but prevent water ingress)  Or was the check 
>>> valve not working? 
>> 
>> No check valve and in any case, a check valve allows flow of air or water in 
>> only one direction.  If it were put in correctly the fuel couldn't get out 
>> but displacement air and water could. 
>>> 
>>> 9) What do you mean by "wire" a turnbuckle?  Did your turnbuckles not have 
>>> cotter pins in them on the upper stays?  (Is running without pins actually 
>>> something people do??)
>> 
>> Heck yeah, who uses cotter pins?  I use stainless steel wire through the 
>> hole in both screws and through the body of the turnbuckle..  Cheap and 
>> easy. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 11:51 AM,  wrote:
 
 -- Forwarded message --
 From: David Paine 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: 
 Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 14:50:37 -0400
 Subject: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
 Hi All,
 
 As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had 
 planned to sail  my C  solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in 
 the Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was fun, it was terrifying, it was 
 expensive to prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well 
 (dfl) in my class in part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf 
 stream probably favored the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my class but 
 mostly because I was climbing a steep learning curve.   Of course, a 
 C won the return and did well on the way there so (in my case) it's 
 the sailor not the boat.  In preparation for the next one, I need to 
 resolve a few issues with the boat and a lot with the skipper.  I was 
 putting together a list that I thought I would share.
 
 (1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I thought my below 
 deck pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a result I found myself upside 
 down in the cockpit locker and crawling deep underneath the cockpit floor 
 in horrible conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm to 
 slip (no woodruff key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of time bobbing 
 around with the sails down repairing the autopilot or sleeping.   The fix 
 for this one is obvious but will require dismantling the quadrant and 
 figuring out how to bolt the tiller arm to it.  Other issues with the 
 autopilot were completely my own fault as I made changes to the 
 electronics but did not have time to proof test the changes.  
 
 (2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did 
 repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good 
 as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or 
 creating a waterproof cover.
 
 (3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and into the engine.  
 As a result, I sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the customs dock 
 then I spent a day in Bermuda sucking water out of the engine and drying 
 it out enough to get it started.   For the return trip, I put a plug in 
 the exhaust pipe but the plug was washed out in the "washing machine like 
 conditions" and ... we got to sail the boat into the Newport Yacht Club 
 dock at 3:00 am on no sleep.  Then spend another day pumping oily water 
 out of the engine.  Yeah, slow learner.  
 
 (4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by 
 the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I 
 siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the 
 vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip 
 I 

Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

This method came up on the list several years ago, with suggestions for making 
the pins with velcro straps.  I made these as mentioned here several years ago 
(took about 10 minutes per pin) and they continue to work very well.  Easy to 
remove to adjust stay tension or remove the mast, but they do not fall out and 
don’t catch on the jib sheets.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
> Message-ID:
>   

Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Josh,

That's also a big step towards open source.  The Raspberry Pi stuff is
cool, but too techie for my limited skills. Also, I've got almost all NMEA
2000 gear, so openplotter won't do me much good.

My next laptop for the boat will probably a TV and a PC on a stick with a
USB hub.

Joel

Joel

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Digital Yatch made some pretty good marketing videos.
>
> As an alternative the openplotter project is already doing the signal k
> conversion and streaming.  Someone on the list turned me on to openplotter
> and I've bought and setup the entire system.  It's pretty straight forward,
> scalable, and works...and cheap.  I think I might have as much as $100 into
> all the parts.
>
> NMEA 0183 multiplexer
> AIS (sorta)
> SignalK generator
> Plotter
> Lots of other extras
>
> http://www.sailoog.com/openplotter
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 28, 2015 9:18 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Just spent $200 on a flyer:
>>
>>
>> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin
>>
>> If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[David via CnC-List]

David,

I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;

(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did 
repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not 
good as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or
 creating a waterproof cover.

Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic used on cars to protect the paint 
on the nose.  Conforms to the panel pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the 
most of the water out of the electrics.  Can still hear alarm too. 

(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side
 but by the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it 
(which I siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to 
relocate the vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on 
the return trip I wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the 
engine I would have removed)   A better solution is needed.

I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps vent 
it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close when engine 
off to avoid extreme weather spillage.

(5)
  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing
 up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My current 
reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom 
which makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and 
releasing the last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze
 is a nightmare.   I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit.

A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may help. 
 

(6)
 A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new 
furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed 
up the shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.

I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever did.  
Contact me off-line if you need details


(11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have 
been really helpful.   I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or
 Sat phone modem.

I rent a SatPhone from satelitephonestore.com who explained how to download the 
small Grib files from Passage Weather to a laptop.  Easy and effective.

Hope that helps.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 22:08:46 +
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: cscheaf...@comcast.net

David,Congratulations for making the race to Bermuda.  That's a great 
achievement.  Thanks for sharing what went wrong.  A thorough debrief should 
include "what went right".   Please share those nuggets of wisdom too?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: "David Paine via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "David Paine" 
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 2:50:37 PM
Subject: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

Hi All,
As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had 
planned to sail  my C  solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in the 
Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was fun, it was terrifying, it was expensive to 
prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl) in my class in 
part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf stream probably favored 
the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my class but mostly because I was climbing 
a steep learning curve.   Of course, a C won the return and did well on 
the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor not the boat.  In preparation for 
the next one, I need to resolve a few issues with the boat and a lot with the 
skipper.  I was putting together a list that I thought I would share.
(1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I thought my below deck 
pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a result I found myself upside down in the 
cockpit locker and crawling deep underneath the cockpit floor in horrible 
conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm to slip (no woodruff 
key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of time bobbing around with the sails 
down repairing the autopilot or sleeping.   The fix for this one is obvious but 
will require dismantling the quadrant and figuring out how to bolt the tiller 
arm to it.  Other issues with the autopilot were completely my own fault as I 
made changes to the electronics but did not have time to proof test the 
changes.  
(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did repeatedly) 
the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good as the switches 
will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover.
(3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and into the engine.  As a 
result, I sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the customs dock then I spent 
a day in Bermuda sucking water out of the engine 

Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Digital Yatch made some pretty good marketing videos.

As an alternative the openplotter project is already doing the signal k
conversion and streaming.  Someone on the list turned me on to openplotter
and I've bought and setup the entire system.  It's pretty straight forward,
scalable, and works...and cheap.  I think I might have as much as $100 into
all the parts.

NMEA 0183 multiplexer
AIS (sorta)
SignalK generator
Plotter
Lots of other extras

http://www.sailoog.com/openplotter

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 28, 2015 9:18 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Just spent $200 on a flyer:
>
>
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin
>
> If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Marek Fluder via CnC-List]

Raspberry Pi itself is a very handy device.
I've developed a data acquisition application at work on this platform and
was thinking there must be someone to pioneer it in a boat electronics
field.
Thank you Josh for posting this.

Marek
C320
Hamilton, ON


On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Digital Yatch made some pretty good marketing videos.
>
> As an alternative the openplotter project is already doing the signal k
> conversion and streaming.  Someone on the list turned me on to openplotter
> and I've bought and setup the entire system.  It's pretty straight forward,
> scalable, and works...and cheap.  I think I might have as much as $100 into
> all the parts.
>
> NMEA 0183 multiplexer
> AIS (sorta)
> SignalK generator
> Plotter
> Lots of other extras
>
> http://www.sailoog.com/openplotter
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 28, 2015 9:18 AM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Just spent $200 on a flyer:
>>
>>
>> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin
>>
>> If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Although there are other practical reasons to have two devices I don't
think the power source of the receptacles applies. Even if the two power
circuits have a selector switch the ground / earth conductor in not
switched and almost certainly common across both on the boat. Thus your
boat bridges the ground circuit of the two incoming power receptacles but
they would likely share a common ground at or near the dock in any case. As
the isolator is in-line of the grounding conductor one properly sized
device could, where installation is practical, handle both power
receptacles.

Ed
On Oct 27, 2015 9:31 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Joel,
>
> I have the Newmar GI-30 on Touche'.
>
> I recently installed two GI-30's on an IP35 with separate 30 amp shore
> power inlets.  Did some research on combining the two shore power circuits
> on one isolator and, in the end, decided it best the isolate each.  Part of
> the logic is you have no gaurantee that two 30 amp receptacles at a marina
> will be wired from the same source.
>
> Dennis C.
> On Oct 27, 2015 12:47 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> And I have 2 30 amp circuits (although I only use one) and the cheap one
>> can handle both.
>>
>> I don't mind the neighbors eating my zinc, it is the Max-Prop that is off
>> the menu!
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 1:39 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> My Quicksilver and this one  (
>>> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=1118395)
>>> have the ABYC required failsafe capacitors. The cheap one does not appear
>>> to meet this standard.
>>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> Coquina
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ed
>>> vanderkruk via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 27, 2015 1:20 PM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* ed vanderkruk
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I put one in when I refurbished my A/C electrical side.
>>>
>>> It isolates you from your neighbors which might slow down the zinc
>>> consumption ... unless of course it is issues on your own boat causing you
>>> problems.
>>>
>>> Many surveyors would recommend one if you are in a marina with shore
>>> power.
>>>
>>> The particular one you have listed doesn't seem to be a 'fail safe'
>>> model as the others in the same catalog category. Which is why they mention
>>> a remote monitor being required.
>>>
>>> Ed
>>>
>>> On Oct 27, 2015 12:48 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anyone use one of these:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=605562
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Does it slow/stop electrolysis?  Most of the boats on my dock are
>>> plugged in, and I go through a zinc or two a year.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Will an isolater do anything besides lighten my wallet?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Joel
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Ed, 
   What you say is true from the perspective of having effective galvanic 
isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to mind. In order 
for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the boat must be 
interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there are two shore 
power receptacles then both of them would have to have their wiring grounds 
taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution panel(s). From an 
engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to have enough capacity to 
reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on fire, but most electrical 
codes require that they have the same capacity as the main conductors. In other 
words, if you care about regulations and some people on this list have 
indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator would most likely have to 
have at least the current capacity of the sum of both shore power receptacles. 
According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that a 
friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an (optional and 
at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator light to be ABYC 
compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the commercial units. The prices 
are grossly out of line with what they actually contain. 
   If you don't care about the light and just want something that works, then a 
big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC terminals 
connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than something that says 
"marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier does not matter, just the 
current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts of isolation from the mains 
ground. 

Steve Thomas
Port Stanley, ON

- Original Message - 
  From: ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: ed vanderkruk 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 11:28
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?


  Although there are other practical reasons to have two devices I don't think 
the power source of the receptacles applies. Even if the two power circuits 
have a selector switch the ground / earth conductor in not switched and almost 
certainly common across both on the boat. Thus your boat bridges the ground 
circuit of the two incoming power receptacles but they would likely share a 
common ground at or near the dock in any case. As the isolator is in-line of 
the grounding conductor one properly sized device could, where installation is 
practical, handle both power receptacles.

  Ed

  On Oct 27, 2015 9:31 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Joel,

I have the Newmar GI-30 on Touche'.

I recently installed two GI-30's on an IP35 with separate 30 amp shore 
power inlets.  Did some research on combining the two shore power circuits on 
one isolator and, in the end, decided it best the isolate each.  Part of the 
logic is you have no gaurantee that two 30 amp receptacles at a marina will be 
wired from the same source.

Dennis C.

On Oct 27, 2015 12:47 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  And I have 2 30 amp circuits (although I only use one) and the cheap one 
can handle both.


  I don't mind the neighbors eating my zinc, it is the Max-Prop that is off 
the menu!


  Joel


  On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 1:39 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My Quicksilver and this one  
(http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=1118395) have the 
ABYC required failsafe capacitors. The cheap one does not appear to meet this 
standard.

Joe

Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 1:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ed vanderkruk
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?



I put one in when I refurbished my A/C electrical side.

It isolates you from your neighbors which might slow down the zinc 
consumption ... unless of course it is issues on your own boat causing you 
problems.

Many surveyors would recommend one if you are in a marina with shore 
power. 

The particular one you have listed doesn't seem to be a 'fail safe' 
model as the others in the same catalog category. Which is why they mention a 
remote monitor being required. 

Ed

On Oct 27, 2015 12:48 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Does anyone use one of these:



http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=605562



Does it slow/stop electrolysis?  Most of the boats on my dock are 
plugged in, and I go through a zinc or two a year.  



Will an isolater do anything besides lighten my wallet?




-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551


___

 

Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Also, the ProMariner FS Series is a “fail-safe” type isolator; no remote panel 
needed.  Under $300 for a 30-amp unit.

http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also 
> ABYC-approved, and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in 
> our neck of the woods that started out making electrical equipment for dairy 
> farms; they realized that their ground isolation products would also work 
> well on boats, so they expanded into the marine market.  All their units are 
> the “fail-safe” types, and their prices are reasonable.
> 
> http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator 
> 
> http://www.deimarine.com 
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Ed, 
>>What you say is true from the perspective of having effective 
>> galvanic isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to 
>> mind. In order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the 
>> boat must be interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there 
>> are two shore power receptacles then both of them would have to have their 
>> wiring grounds taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution 
>> panel(s). From an engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to 
>> have enough capacity to reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on 
>> fire, but most electrical codes require that they have the same capacity as 
>> the main conductors. In other words, if you care about regulations and some 
>> people on this list have indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator 
>> would most likely have to have at least the current capacity of the sum of 
>> both shore power receptacles. 
>> According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that a 
>> friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an (optional 
>> and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator light to be 
>> ABYC compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the commercial units. The 
>> prices are grossly out of line with what they actually contain. 
>>If you don't care about the light and just want something that works, 
>> then a big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC 
>> terminals connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than 
>> something that says "marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier does 
>> not matter, just the current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts of 
>> isolation from the mains ground. 
>>  
>> Steve Thomas
>> Port Stanley, ON
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

This is in line with what I head about cotter rings(in addition to snagging on 
sheets): 

“Banish the “key ring” shaped cotter rings from your sailboat 
rigging for good. They have a 
nasty reputation of backing out of a fitting from vibration or 
stress" 

(http://www.skippertips.com/public/2102.cfm)




-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 10:17 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2015 07:11:22 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
> Message-ID: <25792789-1764-430b-827b-bd34f6edb...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Had rings in the shroud turnbuckles on my previous boat. Was awakened one 
> night by a gentle whacking coming from a galley cabinet. A search discovered 
> nothing. 
> 
> They next morning just before getting underway I noticed a lower shroud 
> bouncing against the cabin side.  On the deck were the Clevis pin and its 
> cotter ring.
> 
> I use cotter keys now. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 27, 2015, at 9:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> I saw a boat recently which had large cotter rings through the turnbuckles 
>> instead of cotter pins.  This looked like a great idea to me as I sometimes 
>> find it difficult to get bent cotter pins back out of the turnbuckles. Any 
>> down side of using rings instead of pins?  Dave

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Re: Stus-List Antifouling Paint - update

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Persistence is at same club as Bob's Azura.  We also used Micron 66 on Bob's 
recommendation as being a paint that works very well in that particular area.

Today Persistence was hauled and I immediately checked the bottom.  There was 
ZERO Growth.  No hair, no barnacles and nothing that adhweres to hull.  There 
was a very thin layer of slime for approx. 1.5 feet from waterline that was 
barely noticeable and rubs off with your finger.  This slime was not adhering 
to the hull

Contrast this to Micron CSC that I would pressure wash beginning of September 
and then have the boat in water in same area from Sept 9 - Oct 26 two and three 
years ago on our J27 Nut Case.  There would be hair at the waterline and 
coating the rudder.  Not a little hair rather looking like someone needed a 
shave hair .. long and advanced.  Last year with Vivid on Persistence haul for 
wash and transducers July 19 and haul for work Sept 11 and bottom was green 
with growth.  VC Offshore in the past also not great on the J27 in this area

Persistence was scrubbed and wet sanded April 25 and the Micron 66 applied 
April 26 at bare minimum temperatures with daytime highs approx. 14 degrees and 
overnight much cooler.  The boat was not scrubbed in water or out since launch 
April 30.

I am now sold on this paint despite it being a PITA for me to get it

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Antifouling Paint

Here's an observation on the barnacle growth on my boat this year.there 
were barnacles on the hull (maybe 200, I didn't actually count) but none on the 
rudder.

When I painted last Spring in April, the temp was cool (10C at the most) so I 
diluted the Micron 66, maybe 10%, so it would spread easily.the hull got 1 
coat but the rudder got 2 or 3 coats.

I may have reduced the effectiveness of the Micron 66 by diluting it too 
much.I won't dilute the paint next yearwill wait for a warm enough day 
to apply without diluting..FYI

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-25 8:33 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
Boat came out on Friday.  :-(

On the plus side once again the prayer meetings worked, not much growth on my 
boat (and lots on Bob's boat!).  This was my third season on a coat of Micron 
CSC, a few barnacles but nothing significant.  There is a J29 at the club that 
has VC Offshore on it, apparently it sat 2 months unused, and man that thing 
was a barnacle festival!  End to end.


Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11


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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I did qualify the statement indicating it should be properly sized. A
single 60 amp isolator is cheaper than two 30 amp ones.

Although pricey the 'fail safe' style of isolator do not require remote
monitors.

I suppose if you didn't care about regulations or certification you might
choose to install one without fail safe and without the monitor; or go down
the DIY route.

Ed
On Oct 28, 2015 12:25 PM, "S Thomas via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ed,
>What you say is true from the perspective of having effective
> galvanic isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to
> mind. In order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the
> boat must be interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there
> are two shore power receptacles then both of them would have to have their
> wiring grounds taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution
> panel(s). From an engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to
> have enough capacity to reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on
> fire, but most electrical codes require that they have the same capacity as
> the main conductors. In other words, if you care about regulations and some
> people on this list have indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator
> would most likely have to have at least the current capacity of the sum of
> both shore power receptacles.
> According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that
> a friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an
> (optional and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator
> light to be ABYC compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the
> commercial units. The prices are grossly out of line with what they
> actually contain.
>If you don't care about the light and just want something that works,
> then a big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC
> terminals connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than
> something that says "marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier
> does not matter, just the current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts
> of isolation from the mains ground.
>
> Steve Thomas
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> - Original Message -
>
> *From:* ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* ed vanderkruk 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 28, 2015 11:28
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?
>
> Although there are other practical reasons to have two devices I don't
> think the power source of the receptacles applies. Even if the two power
> circuits have a selector switch the ground / earth conductor in not
> switched and almost certainly common across both on the boat. Thus your
> boat bridges the ground circuit of the two incoming power receptacles but
> they would likely share a common ground at or near the dock in any case. As
> the isolator is in-line of the grounding conductor one properly sized
> device could, where installation is practical, handle both power
> receptacles.
>
> Ed
> On Oct 27, 2015 9:31 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>> I have the Newmar GI-30 on Touche'.
>>
>> I recently installed two GI-30's on an IP35 with separate 30 amp shore
>> power inlets.  Did some research on combining the two shore power circuits
>> on one isolator and, in the end, decided it best the isolate each.  Part of
>> the logic is you have no gaurantee that two 30 amp receptacles at a marina
>> will be wired from the same source.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> On Oct 27, 2015 12:47 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> And I have 2 30 amp circuits (although I only use one) and the cheap one
>>> can handle both.
>>>
>>> I don't mind the neighbors eating my zinc, it is the Max-Prop that is
>>> off the menu!
>>>
>>> Joel
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 1:39 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 My Quicksilver and this one  (
 http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=1118395)
 have the ABYC required failsafe capacitors. The cheap one does not appear
 to meet this standard.

 Joe

 Coquina



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ed
 vanderkruk via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Tuesday, October 27, 2015 1:20 PM
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* ed vanderkruk
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?



 I put one in when I refurbished my A/C electrical side.

 It isolates you from your neighbors which might slow down the zinc
 consumption ... unless of course it is issues on your own boat causing you
 problems.

 Many surveyors would recommend one if you are in a marina with shore
 power.

 The particular one you have listed doesn't seem to be a 'fail safe'
 

Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also ABYC-approved, 
and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in our neck of the 
woods that started out making electrical equipment for dairy farms; they 
realized that their ground isolation products would also work well on boats, so 
they expanded into the marine market.  All their units are the “fail-safe” 
types, and their prices are reasonable.

http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator 

http://www.deimarine.com 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ed, 
>What you say is true from the perspective of having effective galvanic 
> isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to mind. In 
> order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the boat must be 
> interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there are two shore 
> power receptacles then both of them would have to have their wiring grounds 
> taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution panel(s). From 
> an engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to have enough 
> capacity to reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on fire, but 
> most electrical codes require that they have the same capacity as the main 
> conductors. In other words, if you care about regulations and some people on 
> this list have indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator would most 
> likely have to have at least the current capacity of the sum of both shore 
> power receptacles. 
> According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that a 
> friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an (optional 
> and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator light to be 
> ABYC compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the commercial units. The 
> prices are grossly out of line with what they actually contain. 
>If you don't care about the light and just want something that works, then 
> a big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC terminals 
> connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than something that 
> says "marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier does not matter, 
> just the current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts of isolation from 
> the mains ground. 
>  
> Steve Thomas
> Port Stanley, ON

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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Since we're on topic.  It seems that there is a bit of differing opinions
on bonding the under water metals.

What are the shaft and prop zincs protecting?  If a shaft coupling isolator
were installed and no bonding wire attached then the chance of stray
galvanic currents is eliminated.   Right?  What is the risk of this
situation?  I don't have bonding plates, bronze through hulls, keel coolers
or anything else except the keel that is metal and in contact with the
water.

I've considered possible corrosion effects on internal engine components
and A/C components.  Seems plausible but no one ever talks about it.
Thoughts?

I've also considered the anode in the water heater.  Seems like the most
likely to experience stray galvanic currents and the least likely to be
replaced or checked on any regular periodicity despite its ease of access
within the boat.

I have 2 30 amp connections but use a y-adapter so only 1 shore power cord
is required.  I also built my own galvanic isolator for ~$30 with parts
from mouser.com, I've just never had the urgent need to install it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 28, 2015 12:32 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Also, the ProMariner FS Series is a “fail-safe” type isolator; no remote
> panel needed.  Under $300 for a 30-amp unit.
>
> http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also
> ABYC-approved, and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in
> our neck of the woods that started out making electrical equipment for
> dairy farms; they realized that their ground isolation products would also
> work well on boats, so they expanded into the marine market.  All their
> units are the “fail-safe” types, and their prices are reasonable.
>
> http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator
> http://www.deimarine.com
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Ed,
>What you say is true from the perspective of having effective
> galvanic isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to
> mind. In order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the
> boat must be interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there
> are two shore power receptacles then both of them would have to have their
> wiring grounds taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution
> panel(s). From an engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to
> have enough capacity to reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on
> fire, but most electrical codes require that they have the same capacity as
> the main conductors. In other words, if you care about regulations and some
> people on this list have indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator
> would most likely have to have at least the current capacity of the sum of
> both shore power receptacles.
> According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that
> a friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an
> (optional and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator
> light to be ABYC compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the
> commercial units. The prices are grossly out of line with what they
> actually contain.
>If you don't care about the light and just want something that works,
> then a big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC
> terminals connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than
> something that says "marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier
> does not matter, just the current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts
> of isolation from the mains ground.
>
> Steve Thomas
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Thanks David!

On the topic of Solent stays, I think I have two options.  (1) A true
removable Solent supported  at the top of the mast by the backstay and at
the deck near the bow fitting  or (2) possibly, a staysail stay supported
at the spreaders (one set) by the aft lowers and at the midforedeck via the
track that is there (not sure why) with a supporting below-deck cable (in
line with the stay of course)  to a bulkhead.  Not having to crawl to the
bow in a blow,  COE moved further back, and possibly better sheeting angles
are potential benefits.  The Solent seems like a much easier option with
more varied (larger) sails possible.   I'll have to ponder this a bit!

On the topic of internal venting -- I am embarrassed (and proud) to admit
that I still have an Atomic 4 gas engine so internal venting is not a great
option for me.

On GRIBS, I had a sat phone on this trip and probably should have figured
out how to use it to download gribs but was too busy before departure to
figure that out.   I will next time.  Thanks.

On reefing -- yes, a cam cleat or three clutches would help a lot.
Managing all the loose reefing lines at the boom, particularly after the
third reef, is also a bother when the boat is pitching and the wind is
howling.   I was glad to have a line bag at the boom but all that line can
be hazardous!



On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> David,
>
> I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;
>
>
>
> *(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did
> repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good
> as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or
> creating a waterproof cover.*Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic
> used on cars to protect the paint on the nose.  Conforms to the panel
> pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the most of the water out of the
> electrics.  Can still hear alarm too.
>
>
> *(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but
> by the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I
> siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the
> vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I
> wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have
> removed)   A better solution is needed.*
> I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps
> vent it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close
> when engine off to avoid extreme weather spillage.
>
>
> *(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time
> screwing up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My
> current reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the
> boom which makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and
> releasing the last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is
> a nightmare.   I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit.*
> A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may
> help.
>
>
> *(6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My
> new furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed
> up the shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.*
> I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever
> did.  Contact me off-line if you need details
>
>
>
> *(11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have been
> really helpful.   I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or Sat
> phone modem.*
> I rent a SatPhone from satelitephonestore.com who explained how to
> download the small Grib files from Passage Weather to a laptop.  Easy and
> effective.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I understand the need for a failsafe mode. However if there is no indicator
light how would you ever know it failed unless you put a meter on it and
tested it periodically?

On Wednesday, October 28, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Since we're on topic.  It seems that there is a bit of differing opinions
> on bonding the under water metals.
>
> What are the shaft and prop zincs protecting?  If a shaft coupling
> isolator were installed and no bonding wire attached then the chance of
> stray galvanic currents is eliminated.   Right?  What is the risk of this
> situation?  I don't have bonding plates, bronze through hulls, keel coolers
> or anything else except the keel that is metal and in contact with the
> water.
>
> I've considered possible corrosion effects on internal engine components
> and A/C components.  Seems plausible but no one ever talks about it.
> Thoughts?
>
> I've also considered the anode in the water heater.  Seems like the most
> likely to experience stray galvanic currents and the least likely to be
> replaced or checked on any regular periodicity despite its ease of access
> within the boat.
>
> I have 2 30 amp connections but use a y-adapter so only 1 shore power cord
> is required.  I also built my own galvanic isolator for ~$30 with parts
> from mouser.com, I've just never had the urgent need to install it.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 28, 2015 12:32 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Also, the ProMariner FS Series is a “fail-safe” type isolator; no remote
>> panel needed.  Under $300 for a 30-amp unit.
>>
>> http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also
>> ABYC-approved, and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in
>> our neck of the woods that started out making electrical equipment for
>> dairy farms; they realized that their ground isolation products would also
>> work well on boats, so they expanded into the marine market.  All their
>> units are the “fail-safe” types, and their prices are reasonable.
>>
>> http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator
>> http://www.deimarine.com
>>
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Ed,
>>What you say is true from the perspective of having effective
>> galvanic isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to
>> mind. In order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the
>> boat must be interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there
>> are two shore power receptacles then both of them would have to have their
>> wiring grounds taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution
>> panel(s). From an engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to
>> have enough capacity to reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on
>> fire, but most electrical codes require that they have the same capacity as
>> the main conductors. In other words, if you care about regulations and some
>> people on this list have indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator
>> would most likely have to have at least the current capacity of the sum of
>> both shore power receptacles.
>> According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that
>> a friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an
>> (optional and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator
>> light to be ABYC compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the
>> commercial units. The prices are grossly out of line with what they
>> actually contain.
>>If you don't care about the light and just want something that works,
>> then a big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC
>> terminals connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than
>> something that says "marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier
>> does not matter, just the current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts
>> of isolation from the mains ground.
>>
>> Steve Thomas
>> Port Stanley, ON
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>

Stus-List For Canadians only - Mustang PFD recall

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I got this message in our Club’s mailing. It seems that this applies only to 
PFDs made in Canada and sold in Canada.

Mustang Survival recalls HIT Inflatable Person Flotation Devices (PFDs)

If you own any Mustang PFDs you may want to take a look 
here:http://healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2015/55268r-eng.php
 

Marek
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joel —it would pretty much take a direct hit by lightning to cause one of these 
units to fail; if that happens, you’ve got other issues to deal with…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


p.s. — I just looked out the window, and there’s some weird white flaky stuff 
falling from the sky…   :^(   Dennis, got your boards ready?


> On Oct 28, 2015, at 1:14 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I understand the need for a failsafe mode. However if there is no indicator 
> light how would you ever know it failed unless you put a meter on it and 
> tested it periodically?

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

David,
Thanks for sharing - very inspirational, especially for a fellow 33-1'er.
I can't imagine how you got a belowdeck autopilot installed. It's hard
reaching the quadrant even after removing my A4, exhaust system, fuel tank,
et al. Need to lose some weight I guess.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 2:50 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had
> planned to sail  my C  solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in
> the Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was fun, it was terrifying, it was
> expensive to prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl)
> in my class in part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf stream
> probably favored the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my class but mostly
> because I was climbing a steep learning curve.   Of course, a C won
> the return and did well on the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor
> not the boat.  In preparation for the next one, I need to resolve a few
> issues with the boat and a lot with the skipper.  I was putting together a
> list that I thought I would share.
>
> (1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I thought my below
> deck pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a result I found myself upside down
> in the cockpit locker and crawling deep underneath the cockpit floor in
> horrible conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm to slip
> (no woodruff key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of time bobbing
> around with the sails down repairing the autopilot or sleeping.   The fix
> for this one is obvious but will require dismantling the quadrant and
> figuring out how to bolt the tiller arm to it.  Other issues with the
> autopilot were completely my own fault as I made changes to the electronics
> but did not have time to proof test the changes.
>
> (2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did
> repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good
> as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or
> creating a waterproof cover.
>
> (3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and into the engine.
> As a result, I sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the customs dock
> then I spent a day in Bermuda sucking water out of the engine and drying it
> out enough to get it started.   For the return trip, I put a plug in the
> exhaust pipe but the plug was washed out in the "washing machine like
> conditions" and ... we got to sail the boat into the Newport Yacht Club
> dock at 3:00 am on no sleep.  Then spend another day pumping oily water out
> of the engine.  Yeah, slow learner.
>
> (4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by
> the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I
> siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the
> vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I
> wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have
> removed)   A better solution is needed.
>
> (5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time
> screwing up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My
> current reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the
> boom which makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and
> releasing the last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is
> a nightmare.   I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit.
>
> (6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new
> furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up
> the shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.
>
> (7) The boat was reasonably dry inside (a result of hours of rebedding
> hardware) but somehow the mast collar leaked like a sieve.  The boot looks
> perfect so it has to be the where the Al collar (mast partners) meets the
> deck -- who would have thought that the one place I didn't rebed would be a
> problem!
>
> (8) Hoisting a radar reflect on a flag halyard to the spreaders seems like
> a good idea until the line breaks and you lose both.
>
> (9) The one turnbuckle that I did not wire was the port diamond stay.
> Turns out the mast will stay up without this - whew!   It is extremely
> unnerving to see a piece of wire swinging around at night in a blow.  Wire
> everything. And use lock tight on critical bolts -- my solar panel broke
> loose as a result of a bolt getting unscrewed.
>
> (10)  Fighting with a 10 foot long spinnaker pole to fly the spin gets
> really old. Luckily the wind only died down enough to fly the spinnaker at
> the end of the race but if the conditions had been more benign, I would
> have had to fly the spinnaker much more.   An assymetrical with a short
> prod would be nice (but probably outside my ability to rationalize the
> spending).
>
> (11) Getting a 

Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Never even looked at it, but that makes sense.  I'll have to see what 
router is most energy efficient.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-28 5:48 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:
Most wifi routers are 12v. Just cut off the 110v power brick. Did this 
on our router/boat. Works the same.


On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 1:39 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List 
> wrote:


You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179. :-)
Now I need a 12v WiFi router.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Just spent $200 on a flyer:


https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin

If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.

-- 
Joel

301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

So if one is club racing under PHRF with a racer-cruiser C 36 XL (non-planing 
for sure!), does adding a sprit and asymmetric kite improve its performance 
relative to a mast head symmetrical kite assuming no change in its PHRF rating?

I gather from the list over the years that for round the buoy racing at least 
there is no appreciable gain in performance.

I can appreciate that in distance races and perhaps triangle courses it may 
provide a speed advantage at some apparent wind angles but am not convinced 
that it provides an advantage for W-L courses.

What say the list?

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb





Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 9:48 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dennis, Pete,
> Does Selden require backing plates under the deck for the ring and outer 
> Wichard padeye? 
>  
> And how far out should it extend?  I thought I needed 5 ft for my 36 footer 
> but the Selden guy at the boat show said 3 feet was enough.  He added a 
> longer pole would be beneficial if I was having an oversized sail made for 
> it, similar to what J-boats carry.   (how much do you want to spend?)
>  
> Chuck
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Pete Shelquist" 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 9:25:36 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install
> 
> Good write up Dennis –
> I installed one and sailed with it in the 2014 season.  I would add a couple 
> items to your review;
> 1.   Watch the diameter of sprit.   If one has a roller furler, you’ll 
> need clearance between it and the deck
> 2.   In a blow, there is a lot of lift on the front deck fitting.  
> Careful review of the deck should be done in case reinforcement is needed.  I 
> noticed weakening in the area even with the addition of a bobstay.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 7:25 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install
>  
> Installed a Selden sprit kit on a Peterson 37 today.  Interesting piece of 
> equipment.  Simple design but effective.
> 
> Essentially a big ring that mounts on the bow, a sprit pole that slides 
> in/out through the ring and a couple folding padeyes that the rear fiiting 
> clips onto in the retracted or extended position.  The tack line passes 
> through the pole exiting through each of the end fittings.  The base of the 
> ring is offset so you can mount the ring closer to center line while the pole 
> extends to one side of the forestay.  We had to make a StarBoard base to lift 
> the ring a bit so the sprit pole would clear a tack fitting.  Simple install. 
>  took about 3 hours.
> 
> Couple things to watch out for.  First, the kits are offered in several 
> diameters.  As one might expect, the larger diameter kits have longer allowed 
> extension beyond the ring for bigger boats.  Be sure to order one large 
> enough to get the extension you need.  Second, check with your local handicap 
> organization about penalties and exactly how and where to measure the 
> extended dimension.  Third, if your headsail is a deck sweeper and is tacked 
> low to the deck and the foot is low to the deck, you may have to have the 
> tack cut a bit to go over the sprit (about 4 inches off the deck on one side 
> of the forestay).
> 
> The kit comes with 2 folding padeyes.  However, you can install more at 
> different distances to allow the sprit to extend different distances from the 
> bow or measure point.
> 
> The sprit can be easily removed and stowed below.  This is good for boats 
> with an anchor locker since the lid to the locker would be pinned under the 
> sprit.
>  
> Installation was straightforward once you figure out the different 
> measurements. 
> 
> We installed this one so it retracted clear of the head sail tack point.  
> That way, the head sail tack snap shackle didn't rub on the sprit when going 
> upwind.
> 
> I have one picture of the finished install if anyone is interested.
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Good write up Dennis – 

I installed one and sailed with it in the 2014 season.  I would add a couple 
items to your review;

1.   Watch the diameter of sprit.   If one has a roller furler, you’ll need 
clearance between it and the deck

2.   In a blow, there is a lot of lift on the front deck fitting.  Careful 
review of the deck should be done in case reinforcement is needed.  I noticed 
weakening in the area even with the addition of a bobstay.

 

Thanks,

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 7:25 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install

 

Installed a Selden sprit kit on a Peterson 37 today.  Interesting piece of 
equipment.  Simple design but effective.

Essentially a big ring that mounts on the bow, a sprit pole that slides in/out 
through the ring and a couple folding padeyes that the rear fiiting clips onto 
in the retracted or extended position.  The tack line passes through the pole 
exiting through each of the end fittings.  The base of the ring is offset so 
you can mount the ring closer to center line while the pole extends to one side 
of the forestay.  We had to make a StarBoard base to lift the ring a bit so the 
sprit pole would clear a tack fitting.  Simple install.  took about 3 hours.

Couple things to watch out for.  First, the kits are offered in several 
diameters.  As one might expect, the larger diameter kits have longer allowed 
extension beyond the ring for bigger boats.  Be sure to order one large enough 
to get the extension you need.  Second, check with your local handicap 
organization about penalties and exactly how and where to measure the extended 
dimension.  Third, if your headsail is a deck sweeper and is tacked low to the 
deck and the foot is low to the deck, you may have to have the tack cut a bit 
to go over the sprit (about 4 inches off the deck on one side of the forestay). 

The kit comes with 2 folding padeyes.  However, you can install more at 
different distances to allow the sprit to extend different distances from the 
bow or measure point.

The sprit can be easily removed and stowed below.  This is good for boats with 
an anchor locker since the lid to the locker would be pinned under the sprit.

 

Installation was straightforward once you figure out the different 
measurements.  

We installed this one so it retracted clear of the head sail tack point.  That 
way, the head sail tack snap shackle didn't rub on the sprit when going upwind.

I have one picture of the finished install if anyone is interested.

___

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Re: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Dennis, Pete, 
Does Selden require backing plates under the deck for the ring and outer 
Wichard padeye?  
  
And how far out should it extend?  I thought I needed 5 ft for my 36 footer but 
the Selden guy at the boat show said 3 feet was enough.  He added a longer pole 
would be beneficial if I was having an oversized sail made for it, similar to 
what J-boats carry.   (how much do you want to spend?) 
  
Chuck 
Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Pete Shelquist"  
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 9:25:36 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install 



Good write up Dennis – 

I installed one and sailed with it in the 2014 season.  I would add a couple 
items to your review; 

1.    Watch the diameter of sprit.   If one has a roller furler, you’ll 
need clearance between it and the deck 

2.    In a blow, there is a lot of lift on the front deck fitting.  Careful 
review of the deck should be done in case reinforcement is needed.  I noticed 
weakening in the area even with the addition of a bobstay. 

  

Thanks, 

  

  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 7:25 PM 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Selden sprit kit install 


  


Installed a Selden sprit kit on a Peterson 37 today.  Interesting piece of 
equipment.  Simple design but effective. 


Essentially a big ring that mounts on the bow, a sprit pole that slides in/out 
through the ring and a couple folding padeyes that the rear fiiting clips onto 
in the retracted or extended position.  The tack line passes through the pole 
exiting through each of the end fittings.  The base of the ring is offset so 
you can mount the ring closer to center line while the pole extends to one side 
of the forestay.  We had to make a StarBoard base to lift the ring a bit so the 
sprit pole would clear a tack fitting.  Simple install.  took about 3 hours. 


Couple things to watch out for.  First, the kits are offered in several 
diameters.  As one might expect, the larger diameter kits have longer allowed 
extension beyond the ring for bigger boats.  Be sure to order one large enough 
to get the extension you need.  Second, check with your local handicap 
organization about penalties and exactly how and where to measure the extended 
dimension.  Third, if your headsail is a deck sweeper and is tacked low to the 
deck and the foot is low to the deck, you may have to have the tack cut a bit 
to go over the sprit (about 4 inches off the deck on one side of the forestay). 


The kit comes with 2 folding padeyes.  However, you can install more at 
different distances to allow the sprit to extend different distances from the 
bow or measure point. 


The sprit can be easily removed and stowed below.  This is good for boats with 
an anchor locker since the lid to the locker would be pinned under the sprit. 


  


Installation was straightforward once you figure out the different 
measurements.  


We installed this one so it retracted clear of the head sail tack point.  That 
way, the head sail tack snap shackle didn't rub on the sprit when going upwind. 


I have one picture of the finished install if anyone is interested. 

___ 

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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Some older ones might be better. You don't need much range or bandwidth on
the boat, so you might find 11g to be more energy efficient. Unless the AP
is using sophisticated power management and gears down to maintain the
lowest required level of signal (some of the better 11ac). Regardless, you
want one where the transmit power can be adjusted to conserve the energy.
That wrt54gl can be loaded with an open firmware, which offers plenty of
options. It uses about 5-6 W (~0.5 A); an interesting feature is that it can
easily run on from 5 V to (supposedly) 40 V DC. This means that it can
easily run off the batteries, even if the voltage fluctuates.

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins via CnC-List
Sent: October-28-15 22:05
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins
Subject: Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

 

Never even looked at it, but that makes sense.  I'll have to see what router
is most energy efficient.



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-28 5:48 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:

Most wifi routers are 12v. Just cut off the 110v power brick. Did this on
our router/boat. Works the same. 

 

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 1:39 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List
 wrote:

You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.  :-) 
Now I need a 12v WiFi router.



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Just spent $200 on a flyer: 

 

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enablin
g-the-internet-of-thin

 

If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.  


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551





___
 
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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Most wifi routers are 12v. Just cut off the 110v power brick. Did this on
our router/boat. Works the same.

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 1:39 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.  :-)
> Now I need a 12v WiFi router.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just spent $200 on a flyer:
>
>
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin
>
> If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The isolators do more than deal with badly wired boats. Every boat that does 
not have an isolator is connected to your boat directly through the green shore 
power ground wire. Plugging into shore power is the same as unrolling a huge 
spool of wire and connecting to every boat in the marina. Even if the boats are 
all good, you are sharing your zinc out to everyone else. Now if some of them 
have bad wiring, a lot of things could happen, mostly bad.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Wagner 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 4:56 PM
To: C List
Cc: Don Wagner
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?


Josh

To answer your question about “What are the shaft zincs protecting?” Assuming 
you are in saltwater such as the Chesapeake,
Just a few things, including: the prop, the shaft, the rudder post, the keel 
bolts (especially if you have the C Smile), as well as any other of the usual 
underwater metals.
You should protect these items as the can’t be easily inspected, but failure 
can be a real disaster.

If you have a shaft isolator, you should install one or  more copper jumpers 
between the engine coupling and the prop shaft coupling.

Also Galvanic isolators are suggested for situations where you suspect the AC 
system at the marina or nearby boats may be compromised.

Note: Galvanic isolators are a simple circuit made up 2 big diodes wired in 
parallel but pointed in opposite directions. Since the diodes are not perfect 
they create about .6 volt DC barriers to prevent the corrosion currents  needed 
for electrolysis.

A  big capacitor is also connected in parallel with the diodes to allow AC 
current at low levels and in case of diode failure. All three components are 
mounted on a large heat sink to keep the parts cool and insure a longer life.
Don’t try building this yourself, unless you can design the proper size diodes 
and capacitors and heat sink the box

Just my$.02


Don Wagner
C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 12:48 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?


Since we're on topic.  It seems that there is a bit of differing opinions on 
bonding the under water metals.

What are the shaft and prop zincs protecting?  If a shaft coupling isolator 
were installed and no bonding wire attached then the chance of stray galvanic 
currents is eliminated.   Right?  What is the risk of this situation?  I don't 
have bonding plates, bronze through hulls, keel coolers or anything else except 
the keel that is metal and in contact with the water.

I've considered possible corrosion effects on internal engine components and 
A/C components.  Seems plausible but no one ever talks about it.  Thoughts?

I've also considered the anode in the water heater.  Seems like the most likely 
to experience stray galvanic currents and the least likely to be replaced or 
checked on any regular periodicity despite its ease of access within the boat.

I have 2 30 amp connections but use a y-adapter so only 1 shore power cord is 
required.  I also built my own galvanic isolator for ~$30 with parts from 
mouser.com, I've just never had the urgent need to install 
it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 28, 2015 12:32 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Also, the ProMariner FS Series is a “fail-safe” type isolator; no remote panel 
needed.  Under $300 for a 30-amp unit.

http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also ABYC-approved, 
and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in our neck of the 
woods that started out making electrical equipment for dairy farms; they 
realized that their ground isolation products would also work well on boats, so 
they expanded into the marine market.  All their units are the “fail-safe” 
types, and their prices are reasonable.

http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator
http://www.deimarine.com


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Ed,
   What you say is true from the perspective of having effective galvanic 
isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to mind. In order 
for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the boat must be 
interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means 

Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Graham aren't most routers 12v?My airline uses a 120 to 12v adapter...so I 
suspect it would work sans adapter on the boat. Seems to me linksys now ciscoIs 
the same.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-10-28  17:39  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Graham Collins  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Signal K interface 


You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.   :-) 

Now I need a 12v WiFi router.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson
  via CnC-List wrote:



  Just spent $200 on a flyer:




https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin



If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.  

  

  
  -- 

  Joel 

301 541 8551

  
  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

We never had fuel or engine issues even in very bad weather going to Bermuda, 
so perhaps by blind luck C got the 35 MK I plumbed correctly.
For a fuel vent for the race I would be tempted to run a hose about 6 feet up 
the backstay and have it do a U turn and go a couple feet back down. If THAT 
gets flooded you have other issues.
I spent a night aboard a submarine that had some diesel leaks somewhere and my 
clothes stand so bad I had to get undressed when I got home and throw them out 
the door. NFW would I vent a fuel tank into the cabin. YMMV.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Paine 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 1:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Paine
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

Thanks David!

On the topic of Solent stays, I think I have two options.  (1) A true removable 
Solent supported  at the top of the mast by the backstay and at the deck near 
the bow fitting  or (2) possibly, a staysail stay supported at the spreaders 
(one set) by the aft lowers and at the midforedeck via the track that is there 
(not sure why) with a supporting below-deck cable (in line with the stay of 
course)  to a bulkhead.  Not having to crawl to the bow in a blow,  COE moved 
further back, and possibly better sheeting angles are potential benefits.  The 
Solent seems like a much easier option with more varied (larger) sails 
possible.   I'll have to ponder this a bit!

On the topic of internal venting -- I am embarrassed (and proud) to admit that 
I still have an Atomic 4 gas engine so internal venting is not a great option 
for me.

On GRIBS, I had a sat phone on this trip and probably should have figured out 
how to use it to download gribs but was too busy before departure to figure 
that out.   I will next time.  Thanks.

On reefing -- yes, a cam cleat or three clutches would help a lot.  Managing 
all the loose reefing lines at the boom, particularly after the third reef, is 
also a bother when the boat is pitching and the wind is howling.   I was glad 
to have a line bag at the boom but all that line can be hazardous!



On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
David,

I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;
(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did repeatedly) 
the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good as the switches 
will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover.

Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic used on cars to protect the paint 
on the nose.  Conforms to the panel pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the 
most of the water out of the electrics.  Can still hear alarm too.

(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by the 
time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I siphoned 
out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the vent -- the 
question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I wrapped the 
vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have removed)   A better 
solution is needed.

I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps vent 
it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close when engine 
off to avoid extreme weather spillage.

(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing up 
enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My current reefing 
system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom which makes the 
first reef fine but I used all three reef points and releasing the last reef 
before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is a nightmare.   I need to 
work on leading the lines to the cockpit.

A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may help.

(6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new 
furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up the 
shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.

I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever did.  
Contact me off-line if you need details


(11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have been really 
helpful.   I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or Sat phone modem.

I rent a SatPhone from satelitephonestore.com 
who explained how to download the small Grib files from Passage Weather to a 
laptop.  Easy and effective.

Hope that helps.
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

FYI most routers are either 12v or 5v DC.   Its easy to find 12v to 12v, or
12v to 5v power supplies.  It would be prudent to get find one that also
has a small battery backup too just in case of a power perturbation.

Josh
On Oct 28, 2015 4:40 PM, "Graham Collins via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.  :-)
> Now I need a 12v WiFi router.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just spent $200 on a flyer:
>
>
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin
>
> If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Josh

To answer your question about “What are the shaft zincs protecting?” Assuming 
you are in saltwater such as the Chesapeake,
Just a few things, including: the prop, the shaft, the rudder post, the keel 
bolts (especially if you have the C Smile), as well as any other of the usual 
underwater metals.
You should protect these items as the can’t be easily inspected, but failure 
can be a real disaster.

If you have a shaft isolator, you should install one or  more copper jumpers 
between the engine coupling and the prop shaft coupling.

Also Galvanic isolators are suggested for situations where you suspect the AC 
system at the marina or nearby boats may be compromised.

Note: Galvanic isolators are a simple circuit made up 2 big diodes wired in 
parallel but pointed in opposite directions. Since the diodes are not perfect 
they create about .6 volt DC barriers to prevent the corrosion currents  needed 
for electrolysis.

A  big capacitor is also connected in parallel with the diodes to allow AC 
current at low levels and in case of diode failure. All three components are 
mounted on a large heat sink to keep the parts cool and insure a longer life.
Don’t try building this yourself, unless you can design the proper size diodes 
and capacitors and heat sink the box

Just my$.02


Don Wagner
C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 12:48 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

Since we're on topic.  It seems that there is a bit of differing opinions on 
bonding the under water metals.

What are the shaft and prop zincs protecting?  If a shaft coupling isolator 
were installed and no bonding wire attached then the chance of stray galvanic 
currents is eliminated.   Right?  What is the risk of this situation?  I don't 
have bonding plates, bronze through hulls, keel coolers or anything else except 
the keel that is metal and in contact with the water.

I've considered possible corrosion effects on internal engine components and 
A/C components.  Seems plausible but no one ever talks about it.  Thoughts? 

I've also considered the anode in the water heater.  Seems like the most likely 
to experience stray galvanic currents and the least likely to be replaced or 
checked on any regular periodicity despite its ease of access within the boat.

I have 2 30 amp connections but use a y-adapter so only 1 shore power cord is 
required.  I also built my own galvanic isolator for ~$30 with parts from 
mouser.com, I've just never had the urgent need to install it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Oct 28, 2015 12:32 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  Also, the ProMariner FS Series is a “fail-safe” type isolator; no remote 
panel needed.  Under $300 for a 30-amp unit. 

  http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also 
ABYC-approved, and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in our 
neck of the woods that started out making electrical equipment for dairy farms; 
they realized that their ground isolation products would also work well on 
boats, so they expanded into the marine market.  All their units are the 
“fail-safe” types, and their prices are reasonable. 

http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator
http://www.deimarine.com


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Ed, 
 What you say is true from the perspective of having effective 
galvanic isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to mind. 
In order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the boat must be 
interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there are two shore 
power receptacles then both of them would have to have their wiring grounds 
taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution panel(s). From an 
engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to have enough capacity to 
reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on fire, but most electrical 
codes require that they have the same capacity as the main conductors. In other 
words, if you care about regulations and some people on this list have 
indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator would most likely have to 
have at least the current capacity of the sum of both shore power receptacles. 
  According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that 
a friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an (optional 
and at an additional cost for that 

Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Maybe this is bad, but there were times that would have been underwater for us. 
Looking back I am not sure why we didn’t have issues, the boat seemed to be 
mostly submerged at times.
Joe
Coquina

From: Kevin Driscoll [mailto:kevindrisc...@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 5:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

I've seen some IMOCA 60's (or similar) racing sleds run a vent line up a 
lifeline stanchion to top lifeline. Seemed like a decent solution.

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 2:30 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:
We never had fuel or engine issues even in very bad weather going to Bermuda, 
so perhaps by blind luck C got the 35 MK I plumbed correctly.
For a fuel vent for the race I would be tempted to run a hose about 6 feet up 
the backstay and have it do a U turn and go a couple feet back down. If THAT 
gets flooded you have other issues.
I spent a night aboard a submarine that had some diesel leaks somewhere and my 
clothes stand so bad I had to get undressed when I got home and throw them out 
the door. NFW would I vent a fuel tank into the cabin. YMMV.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of David Paine via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 1:31 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Paine
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

Thanks David!

On the topic of Solent stays, I think I have two options.  (1) A true removable 
Solent supported  at the top of the mast by the backstay and at the deck near 
the bow fitting  or (2) possibly, a staysail stay supported at the spreaders 
(one set) by the aft lowers and at the midforedeck via the track that is there 
(not sure why) with a supporting below-deck cable (in line with the stay of 
course)  to a bulkhead.  Not having to crawl to the bow in a blow,  COE moved 
further back, and possibly better sheeting angles are potential benefits.  The 
Solent seems like a much easier option with more varied (larger) sails 
possible.   I'll have to ponder this a bit!

On the topic of internal venting -- I am embarrassed (and proud) to admit that 
I still have an Atomic 4 gas engine so internal venting is not a great option 
for me.

On GRIBS, I had a sat phone on this trip and probably should have figured out 
how to use it to download gribs but was too busy before departure to figure 
that out.   I will next time.  Thanks.

On reefing -- yes, a cam cleat or three clutches would help a lot.  Managing 
all the loose reefing lines at the boom, particularly after the third reef, is 
also a bother when the boat is pitching and the wind is howling.   I was glad 
to have a line bag at the boom but all that line can be hazardous!



On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
David,

I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;
(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did repeatedly) 
the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good as the switches 
will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover.

Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic used on cars to protect the paint 
on the nose.  Conforms to the panel pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the 
most of the water out of the electrics.  Can still hear alarm too.

(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by the 
time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I siphoned 
out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the vent -- the 
question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I wrapped the 
vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have removed)   A better 
solution is needed.

I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps vent 
it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close when engine 
off to avoid extreme weather spillage.

(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing up 
enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My current reefing 
system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom which makes the 
first reef fine but I used all three reef points and releasing the last reef 
before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is a nightmare.   I need to 
work on leading the lines to the cockpit.

A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may help.

(6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new 
furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up the 
shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.

I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever did.  
Contact me off-line if you 

Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179. :-)
Now I need a 12v WiFi router.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Just spent $200 on a flyer:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin

If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.

--
Joel
301 541 8551


___

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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Graham,

Me too, once the box really exists.  Let me know what you find.

Joel

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 4:39 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.  :-)
> Now I need a 12v WiFi router.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just spent $200 on a flyer:
>
>
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin
>
> If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source.
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I've seen some IMOCA 60's (or similar) racing sleds run a vent line up a
lifeline stanchion to top lifeline. Seemed like a decent solution.

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 2:30 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We never had fuel or engine issues even in very bad weather going to
> Bermuda, so perhaps by blind luck C got the 35 MK I plumbed correctly.
>
> For a fuel vent for the race I would be tempted to run a hose about 6 feet
> up the backstay and have it do a U turn and go a couple feet back down. If
> THAT gets flooded you have other issues.
>
> I spent a night aboard a submarine that had some diesel leaks somewhere
> and my clothes stand so bad I had to get undressed when I got home and
> throw them out the door. NFW would I vent a fuel tank into the cabin. YMMV.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Paine via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 28, 2015 1:31 PM
>
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* David Paine
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
>
>
>
> Thanks David!
>
>
>
> On the topic of Solent stays, I think I have two options.  (1) A true
> removable Solent supported  at the top of the mast by the backstay and at
> the deck near the bow fitting  or (2) possibly, a staysail stay supported
> at the spreaders (one set) by the aft lowers and at the midforedeck via the
> track that is there (not sure why) with a supporting below-deck cable (in
> line with the stay of course)  to a bulkhead.  Not having to crawl to the
> bow in a blow,  COE moved further back, and possibly better sheeting angles
> are potential benefits.  The Solent seems like a much easier option with
> more varied (larger) sails possible.   I'll have to ponder this a bit!
>
>
>
> On the topic of internal venting -- I am embarrassed (and proud) to admit
> that I still have an Atomic 4 gas engine so internal venting is not a great
> option for me.
>
>
>
> On GRIBS, I had a sat phone on this trip and probably should have figured
> out how to use it to download gribs but was too busy before departure to
> figure that out.   I will next time.  Thanks.
>
>
>
> On reefing -- yes, a cam cleat or three clutches would help a lot.
> Managing all the loose reefing lines at the boom, particularly after the
> third reef, is also a bother when the boat is pitching and the wind is
> howling.   I was glad to have a line bag at the boom but all that line can
> be hazardous!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;
>
>
>
> *(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did
> repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good
> as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or
> creating a waterproof cover. *Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic
> used on cars to protect the paint on the nose.  Conforms to the panel
> pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the most of the water out of the
> electrics.  Can still hear alarm too.
>
>
>
>
> *(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but
> by the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I
> siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the
> vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I
> wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have
> removed)   A better solution is needed. *
> I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps
> vent it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close
> when engine off to avoid extreme weather spillage.
>
>
>
>
> *(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time
> screwing up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My
> current reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the
> boom which makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and
> releasing the last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is
> a nightmare.   I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit. *
> A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may
> help.
>
>
>
>
> *(6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My
> new furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed
> up the shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130. *
> I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever
> did.  Contact me off-line if you need details
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *(11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have been
> really helpful.   I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or Sat
> phone modem. *
> I rent a SatPhone from satelitephonestore.com who explained how to
> download the small Grib files from Passage Weather to 

Stus-List snow?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Fred,

We suffer all summer.   So now that it is over, it is time to enjoy some nice 
sailing weather.



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 5:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> 
> p.s. ? I just looked out the window, and there?s some weird white flaky stuff 
> falling from the sky?   :^(   Dennis, got your boards ready?

___

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Re: Stus-List Signal K interface -> 12V WiFi

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

The Linksys WRT54GL is 12V.This is what I use with the Ubiquiti Bullet M2.



-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 28, 2015, at 5:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2015 20:48:17 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Signal K interface
> Message-ID:
>    >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Most wifi routers are 12v. Just cut off the 110v power brick. Did this on
> our router/boat. Works the same.
> 
> On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 1:39 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>> You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179.  :-)
>> Now I need a 12v WiFi router.
>> 
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C 35-III #11

___

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Following this great recounting of the race and subsequent discussion got me to 
thinking about venting issues. They’re on my list of to-do’s on my refit and 
dove-tail with some things I’ve been rolling around in my mind.

Given that all my external vents and hoses have been removed and are awaiting 
replacement, I’ve been thinking that I may do what Passport yachts does which 
is to vent the fresh-water tanks to the interior of the boat. This sounds like 
what David Risch may have done.

The other critical vent is for the fuel tank which exits high on the starboard 
side, approximately at the forward end of the cockpit just under the toe-rail. 
I’m considering moving that vent to inside the starboard propane locker which 
is under the helmsman’s starboard seat. Not much of a distance aft from the 
original location. This would put it out of burying seas on port tack and it 
has the added benefit that if there are overflow issues it would let the fuel 
exit out the external through-hull at the base of propane locker rather than 
into a cabin space.

As regards the solent stay for heavy weather, I discussed this at length with a 
buddy who worked for Forespar and his suggestion was to have a storm sail built 
with an integral stay that would attach to the toe-rail and hoist on the second 
jib halyard. Granted, this is a storm comfort/survival setup as opposed to a 
racing (pointing…) option. I don’t race my boat so not a concern.

Food for thought and opinions welcome given that I’m in ongoing rebuild mode.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;
> 
> (2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did repeatedly) 
> the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good as the 
> switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating a 
> waterproof cover.
> 
> Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic used on cars to protect the paint 
> on the nose.  Conforms to the panel pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the 
> most of the water out of the electrics.  Can still hear alarm too. 
> 
> (4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by 
> the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I 
> siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the vent 
> -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I 
> wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have 
> removed)   A better solution is needed.
> 
> I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps 
> vent it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close when 
> engine off to avoid extreme weather spillage.
> 
> (5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing 
> up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My current 
> reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom which 
> makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and releasing the 
> last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is a nightmare.   
> I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit.
> 
> A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may 
> help.  
> 
> (6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new 
> furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up the 
> shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.
> 
> I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever did. 
>  Contact me off-line if you need details
> 
> 
> (11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have been really 
> helpful.   I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or Sat phone modem.
> 
> I rent a SatPhone from satelitephonestore.com who explained how to download 
> the small Grib files from Passage Weather to a laptop.  Easy and effective.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 22:08:46 +
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: cscheaf...@comcast.net
> 
> David,
> Congratulations for making the race to Bermuda.  That's a great achievement.  
> Thanks for sharing what went wrong.  A thorough debrief should include "what 
> went right".   Please share those nuggets of wisdom too?
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "David Paine via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "David Paine" 
> Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 2:50:37 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> As I mentioned last spring as 

Stus-List Selden sprit kit install

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Installed a Selden sprit kit on a Peterson 37 today.  Interesting piece of
equipment.  Simple design but effective.

Essentially a big ring that mounts on the bow, a sprit pole that slides
in/out through the ring and a couple folding padeyes that the rear fiiting
clips onto in the retracted or extended position.  The tack line passes
through the pole exiting through each of the end fittings.  The base of the
ring is offset so you can mount the ring closer to center line while the
pole extends to one side of the forestay.  We had to make a StarBoard base
to lift the ring a bit so the sprit pole would clear a tack fitting.
Simple install.  took about 3 hours.

Couple things to watch out for.  First, the kits are offered in several
diameters.  As one might expect, the larger diameter kits have longer
allowed extension beyond the ring for bigger boats.  Be sure to order one
large enough to get the extension you need.  Second, check with your local
handicap organization about penalties and exactly how and where to measure
the extended dimension.  Third, if your headsail is a deck sweeper and is
tacked low to the deck and the foot is low to the deck, you may have to
have the tack cut a bit to go over the sprit (about 4 inches off the deck
on one side of the forestay).

The kit comes with 2 folding padeyes.  However, you can install more at
different distances to allow the sprit to extend different distances from
the bow or measure point.

The sprit can be easily removed and stowed below.  This is good for boats
with an anchor locker since the lid to the locker would be pinned under the
sprit.

Installation was straightforward once you figure out the different
measurements.

We installed this one so it retracted clear of the head sail tack point.
That way, the head sail tack snap shackle didn't rub on the sprit when
going upwind.

I have one picture of the finished install if anyone is interested.
___

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

David,

 

I use rings in most places on my boat.  No issues.  It makes it easy to
adjust the rigging often.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 22:12
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

 

I saw a boat recently which had large cotter rings through the turnbuckles
instead of cotter pins.  This looked like a great idea to me as I sometimes
find it difficult to get bent cotter pins back out of the turnbuckles.  Any
down side of using rings instead of pins?  Dave

 

On Oct 27, 2015, at 8:07 PM, David Paine via CnC-List
 wrote:





 

___

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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… to vent the fresh-water tanks to the interior of the boat.

I did this on Calypso, running both fresh-water tank vents forward into the 
anchor locker.  In the unlikely event of over filling a tank the vented water 
would end up in the anchor locker bilge and be pumped over board.  I do need to 
double check the vent hose run as there are a few low spots where water can 
collect. It has not been a problem over the last +-15 years but it is easy to 
prevent.

I do recommend moving the fuel tank vent away from the toe rail.

I did place both holding tank vents just below the toe rail (one each side) as 
the risk of a vacuum or syphon being created is low and a little clean water in 
the holding tank might be a bonus.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 5:15 PM
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

Following this great recounting of the race and subsequent discussion got me to 
thinking about venting issues. They’re on my list of to-do’s on my refit and 
dove-tail with some things I’ve been rolling around in my mind.

Given that all my external vents and hoses have been removed and are awaiting 
replacement, I’ve been thinking that I may do what Passport yachts does which 
is to vent the fresh-water tanks to the interior of the boat. This sounds like 
what David Risch may have done.

The other critical vent is for the fuel tank which exits high on the starboard 
side, approximately at the forward end of the cockpit just under the toe-rail. 
I’m considering moving that vent to inside the starboard propane locker which 
is under the helmsman’s starboard seat. Not much of a distance aft from the 
original location. This would put it out of burying seas on port tack and it 
has the added benefit that if there are overflow issues it would let the fuel 
exit out the external through-hull at the base of propane locker rather than 
into a cabin space.

As regards the solent stay for heavy weather, I discussed this at length with a 
buddy who worked for Forespar and his suggestion was to have a storm sail built 
with an integral stay that would attach to the toe-rail and hoist on the second 
jib halyard. Granted, this is a storm comfort/survival setup as opposed to a 
racing (pointing…) option. I don’t race my boat so not a concern.

Food for thought and opinions welcome given that I’m in ongoing rebuild mode.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:

David,

I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;
(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did repeatedly) 
the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good as the switches 
will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover.

Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic used on cars to protect the paint 
on the nose.  Conforms to the panel pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the 
most of the water out of the electrics.  Can still hear alarm too.

(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by the 
time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I siphoned 
out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the vent -- the 
question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I wrapped the 
vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have removed)   A better 
solution is needed.

I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps vent 
it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close when engine 
off to avoid extreme weather spillage.

(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing up 
enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My current reefing 
system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom which makes the 
first reef fine but I used all three reef points and releasing the last reef 
before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is a nightmare.   I need to 
work on leading the lines to the cockpit.

A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may help.

(6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new 
furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up the 
shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.

I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever did.  
Contact me off-line if you need details


(11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have been really 
helpful.   I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or Sat phone