Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick,

Hatches look great.  I have been dealing with these too.  In my case, I had a 
broken hinge 
and I was not sure if it was fixable.  I ended up replacing all hinges, so I 
now have 3 original
hinges which I am no longer using.

I just quickly posted photos and a  short description online:

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/12/renewing-galley-and-head-hatches.html


Since I had to make my own lenses, I purchased enough acrylic to replace the 
lens in 
the other two hatches.   I have finished the mid-sized hatch, and I am about to 
start 
on the larger hatch.   Before I remove it, I want to acquire new handle gaskets 
(I believe 
they are actually oil seals).


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2016 14:51:33 -0700
> From: Patrick Davin 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" ,  Frederick G
>   Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I finished installing the new hatch lenses this weekend. Thanks again Fred
> for the effort you went to getting these made and shipped!  Here are some
> before + after photos showing how great they look:
> 
> https://goo.gl/photos/JZBXFFRNyUYRhWAD9
> 
> It took me 8 hours, about 4 for each window. But if you're not an OCD
> perfectionist it might take you half that time.
> 
> And a few tips for those who haven't installed yet (sorry this turned out
> very long):
> 
> - Surprisingly, dis-assembly went quite quick - I expected some seriously
> corroded / stuck fasteners, but brute force (no breaker bar needed) got
> them all apart without breaking. Used PB Blaster on one, not sure if it
> made a difference.
> - The lenses were about 1/8" longer than my current ones, and didn't quite
> fit - so I had to sand down a few corners with a Dremel sanding drum. I'm
> not sure if there were slight variations in the frame size from year to
> year, or if it's just a cutting inaccuracy (it's hard cutting to within
> millimeter precision, so I don't blame the fabricator!). I used a coarse
> sanding drum, then medium, and finished hand sanding with 180 or 320 grit.
> - The biggest time sink comes down to how your hinges are done. The
> original hinges have a cast aluminum tapped (threaded) cylinder attached to
> the hinge, which an SS bolt was screwed into. It's a neat design (no
> penetrations above the hinge means fewer things to seal) but obviously
> dissimilar metals corrode. There are basically two options:
>   - My head hatch already had the hinges thru-bolted (drill 1/4" and mount
> a hex bolt through it from the top). One hinge I had done myself when the
> aluminum disintegrated last year, and the other had already been done.
> However I still had to dremel down the remaining cast aluminum cylinder -
> in order to get the hinges to seat flush with the new acrylic, because I
> don't want to drill a 5/8" clearance hole like the lenses originally had. A
> 1/4" hole is much easier to drill (but then the cylinder can't seat in
> that).
>   - Reuse the existing tapped aluminum. My galley hatch ones were in
> surprisingly good shape. After some cleanup with mineral spirits, the
> original bolts threaded into the aluminum just fine. So I decided to save
> the trouble of cutting them of, and reuse them (with lots of Lanocote or
> TefGel). However drilling 5/8" holes in acrylic is hard, so that created
> some trouble. The fitting is 1/2" but the original holes were 5/8" - you
> need some clearance for expansion. Plas Drill bits max out at 1/2", and I
> didn't have one that size on hand anyway. I did a test drill on the old
> hatch acrylic with a 1/2" standard bit, and it took a big chip out of the
> surface when it exited the other side. 1/2" drill bits are hard to use even
> on wood without chipping. I bought a 5/8" Forstner bit and a 5/8" cheap
> hole saw and went to the shop to use the drill press. This page has advice,
> including on forstner bits for acrylic: http://www.bcae1.com/plexi.htm
> The Forstner was very slow and required a lot of pressure on the drill
> press. It didn't melt, but I wouldn't use it again for acrylic this thick.
> The Forstner chipped the edge on the exit. And broke the drill stop collar
> on the drill press. But I didn't have a plywood backer, I was using a
> doubled-over cardboard Amazon box (because I couldn't find my drilling
> backer at the time) - so this was my fault for a dumb idea.
> On the next hole, the hole saw with the aggressive teeth did melt the
> acrylic, but went much faster. Water didn't really seem to slow the
> melting, but the melted bits were not really a problem. The acrylic is so
> thick and the 5/8" hole quite large, that a little melting on the perimeter
> caused no noticeable damage.
> 
> - 1/4" Plas Drill bit worked great. I used that for the knob latch screws
> and for the two thru-bolts on the head hatch. The thru-bolts I used were
> 1/4" I think, 

Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Rub some dirt in it. She'll be right, mate.


Best wishes and quick healing!

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



>
>
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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Best wishes to Gladys for a speedy recovery.  Now you really can literally wait 
on her “hand and foot”.  Dave

On Mar 14, 2016, at 6:05 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:

> Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
> unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.
>  
> Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement 
> inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had a 
> broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an 
> orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.
>  
> Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a 
> permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4 weeks 
> and then we can start thinking about going home.
>  
> Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us and 
> we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.
>  
> If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to 
> wait until we get home.
>  
> Stu
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[randy via CnC-List]

 

Best wishes to you both!

 

randy

Tamanawas

29-II

Hood River, OR

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 3:06 PM
To: C&C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

 

Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.

 

Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement
inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had
a broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an
orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.

 

Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a
permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4
weeks and then we can start thinking about going home.

 

Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us
and we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.

 

If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to
wait until we get home.

 

Stu



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Re: Stus-List Spring recommissioning checklist

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Gosh, darn. Well, the sailing today was horrible. 5-12 knots variable, less 
than 1 foot seas, about mid 70's temperature, bottle of wine. True struggle to 
endure. :)

Plan to do it again tomorrow.

Spending night on boat.  Got air conditioner going. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2016, at 1:30 PM, "Marek Dziedzic \(hotmail\) via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Oh, rub it in. We had some freezing rain this morning.
>  
> Marek
> in Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 09:57
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Stus-List Spring recommissioning checklist
>  
> The weather is warming up. Time to get your boat ready to sail!
> 
> Don't know about the rest of you but I'm going sailing today!
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Darn.  Hope recovery is quick.  I hear Cajun food speeds healing. Come on down! 
 You're more than welcome.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 14, 2016, at 5:05 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
> unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.
>  
> Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement 
> inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had a 
> broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an 
> orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.
>  
> Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a 
> permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4 weeks 
> and then we can start thinking about going home.
>  
> Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us and 
> we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.
>  
> If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to 
> wait until we get home.
>  
> Stu
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Stu and Gladys

 

Sorry to hear of your misfortune and wishing you a speedy and complete
recovery

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 6:06 PM
To: C&C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

 

Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.

 

Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement
inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had
a broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an
orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.

 

Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a
permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4
weeks and then we can start thinking about going home.

 

Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us
and we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.

 

If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to
wait until we get home.

 

Stu

Image removed by sender.



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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[David Lenehan via CnC-List]

​Stu,

Sincerely sorry to hear about Gladys' misfortune.  Wishing you both the
best and hoping there is something positive that will eventuate from this.
Praying for rapid healing.

David Lenehan
(Down Under)​
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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Wow that's awful.  I hope she heals quickly...

DannyOn Mar 14, 2016 6:22 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Stu, best wishes to Gladys for a full and speedy recovery!
>
> Graham Collins
>
> Secret Plans
>
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2016-03-14 7:05 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
>> unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.
>>  
>> Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement 
>> inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had 
>> a broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an 
>> orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.
>>  
>> Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a 
>> permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4 
>> weeks and then we can start thinking about going home.
>>  
>> Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us 
>> and we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.
>>  
>> If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to 
>> wait until we get home.
>>  
>> Stu
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>>
>>
>> Email address:
>>
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>>
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Best of luck with the injury, heal quickly..

 

Gary Nylander

30-1 #593

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 6:06 PM
To: C&C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

 

Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.

 

Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement
inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had
a broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an
orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.

 

Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a
permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4
weeks and then we can start thinking about going home.

 

Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us
and we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.

 

If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to
wait until we get home.

 

Stu

 
 

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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Stu, best wishes to Gladys for a full and speedy recovery!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2016-03-14 7:05 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.
Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the 
pavement inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they 
told us she had a broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had 
to book with an orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.
Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery. She is having a 
permanent plate installed in the wrist. Follow-up checks should last 4 
weeks and then we can start thinking about going home.
Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill 
us and we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.
If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will 
have to wait until we get home.

Stu


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Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[Stu via CnC-List]

Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to 
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.

Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement 
inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had a 
broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an orthopedic 
doctor as soon as possible.

Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a 
permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4 weeks 
and then we can start thinking about going home.

Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us and 
we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.

If you want to order C&C vinyl decals or a new C&C burgee, you will have to 
wait until we get home.

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Patrick — I’m glad they worked out for you.  The oversize issue surprises me; I 
hadn’t heard of that from anyone the last go-around (ten years ago).

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 14, 2016, at 4:51 PM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
> 
> I finished installing the new hatch lenses this weekend. Thanks again Fred 
> for the effort you went to getting these made and shipped!  Here are some 
> before + after photos showing how great they look:
> 
> https://goo.gl/photos/JZBXFFRNyUYRhWAD9 
> 
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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I finished installing the new hatch lenses this weekend. Thanks again Fred
for the effort you went to getting these made and shipped!  Here are some
before + after photos showing how great they look:

https://goo.gl/photos/JZBXFFRNyUYRhWAD9

It took me 8 hours, about 4 for each window. But if you're not an OCD
perfectionist it might take you half that time.

And a few tips for those who haven't installed yet (sorry this turned out
very long):

- Surprisingly, dis-assembly went quite quick - I expected some seriously
corroded / stuck fasteners, but brute force (no breaker bar needed) got
them all apart without breaking. Used PB Blaster on one, not sure if it
made a difference.
- The lenses were about 1/8" longer than my current ones, and didn't quite
fit - so I had to sand down a few corners with a Dremel sanding drum. I'm
not sure if there were slight variations in the frame size from year to
year, or if it's just a cutting inaccuracy (it's hard cutting to within
millimeter precision, so I don't blame the fabricator!). I used a coarse
sanding drum, then medium, and finished hand sanding with 180 or 320 grit.
- The biggest time sink comes down to how your hinges are done. The
original hinges have a cast aluminum tapped (threaded) cylinder attached to
the hinge, which an SS bolt was screwed into. It's a neat design (no
penetrations above the hinge means fewer things to seal) but obviously
dissimilar metals corrode. There are basically two options:
   - My head hatch already had the hinges thru-bolted (drill 1/4" and mount
a hex bolt through it from the top). One hinge I had done myself when the
aluminum disintegrated last year, and the other had already been done.
However I still had to dremel down the remaining cast aluminum cylinder -
in order to get the hinges to seat flush with the new acrylic, because I
don't want to drill a 5/8" clearance hole like the lenses originally had. A
1/4" hole is much easier to drill (but then the cylinder can't seat in
that).
   - Reuse the existing tapped aluminum. My galley hatch ones were in
surprisingly good shape. After some cleanup with mineral spirits, the
original bolts threaded into the aluminum just fine. So I decided to save
the trouble of cutting them of, and reuse them (with lots of Lanocote or
TefGel). However drilling 5/8" holes in acrylic is hard, so that created
some trouble. The fitting is 1/2" but the original holes were 5/8" - you
need some clearance for expansion. Plas Drill bits max out at 1/2", and I
didn't have one that size on hand anyway. I did a test drill on the old
hatch acrylic with a 1/2" standard bit, and it took a big chip out of the
surface when it exited the other side. 1/2" drill bits are hard to use even
on wood without chipping. I bought a 5/8" Forstner bit and a 5/8" cheap
hole saw and went to the shop to use the drill press. This page has advice,
including on forstner bits for acrylic: http://www.bcae1.com/plexi.htm
The Forstner was very slow and required a lot of pressure on the drill
press. It didn't melt, but I wouldn't use it again for acrylic this thick.
The Forstner chipped the edge on the exit. And broke the drill stop collar
on the drill press. But I didn't have a plywood backer, I was using a
doubled-over cardboard Amazon box (because I couldn't find my drilling
backer at the time) - so this was my fault for a dumb idea.
On the next hole, the hole saw with the aggressive teeth did melt the
acrylic, but went much faster. Water didn't really seem to slow the
melting, but the melted bits were not really a problem. The acrylic is so
thick and the 5/8" hole quite large, that a little melting on the perimeter
caused no noticeable damage.

- 1/4" Plas Drill bit worked great. I used that for the knob latch screws
and for the two thru-bolts on the head hatch. The thru-bolts I used were
1/4" I think, so I jangled the bit around to enlarge the hole so I'd have a
bit more clearance for heat expansion. If I were to redo the 5/8" holes I
think I'd get a 1/2" Plas Drill and then enlarge the hole with a Dremel.

I did all this while we had two gales blow through Seattle this weekend.
The one on Sunday winds peaked at 57 knots. Finishing the install with a 5
to 8 degree heel to the boat was fun. :)

-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA

On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 9:00 AM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Frederick G Street 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 09:22:35 -0600
> Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
> Okay, here’s what I’ve got so far for replacement lenses for the small
> galley/head hatches:
>
> Paul Eugenio (maybe x2, but not sure)
> Patrick Davin x2
> Dan Sheer x2
> Don Harben x1
> Doug Mountjoy x2
> Jim Schwartz x2
>
>
> That gives me a total of NINE for sure; I can get them for the
> previously-quoted $65.00 each.  I should be able to ship in the US via
> Priority Mail for $20 (large flat rate box); Canada, I’m not sure of costs
> and will need to quote separa

Re: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mike — ABYC E-11 (AC and DC Electrical Systems) has this to say about grounding:

11.18.2.5.2.2.  Copper braid shall not be used.

11.18.2.6.  Combined DC Grounding and Bonding Systems – The DC grounding 
conductors may be combined with the following systems providing all the 
requirements with respect to conductor size are met for each system.

It then goes on to list Lightning Protection, Cathodic Bonding and Static 
Electricity Grounding.  So yes, you CAN connect all of the grounding/bonding 
systems on a boat.

Lightning systems require the equivalent of #6AWG wire for everything but the 
main download; that needs to be #4AWG or equivalent, but for our boats the mast 
provides the downlead (and far exceeds #4AWG).

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 14, 2016, at 3:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes the braid is what we're talking about with regards to the lightning 
> protection.  It is not uncommon for this braid to corrode away.  As I 
> understand it you leave it uninsulated so that during a lightning strike the 
> insulation doesn't have a chance to burn off and possibly start a fire. 
> That's why using the cooper bar stock is appropriate.  I've also seen copper 
> plumbing pipe bent in a tubing bender and flattened on the ends.  Drill holes 
> in the flat parts to bolt it ad needed.  Again as straight of a shot as 
> possible is preferred.
> 
> The lightning protection should be separated from the DC ground system and 
> galvanic protection system.  See my previous link for clarification.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Mar 14, 2016 10:09 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Further to this topic.
> 
>  
> 
> Our grounding wire is a braided copper strip approx. 3/8 inch wide and flat.  
> A section has corroded and is no longer attached and that section needs to be 
> replaced.  Is this the same thing we are already discussing?  Han I purchase 
> o new section of this wire in the suitable length and splice it somehow?
> 
>  
> 
> Mike
> 
> Persistence
> 
> 1987 Frers 33
> 
> Halifax, NS
> 

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Re: Stus-List winch grease

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Whoa David, 
Just my 2 cents, but I'd lube Barients as Barient recommends: Winch grease on 
the gears and shafts and light oil on the pawls. 

Harken is a different animal and I'd follow their recommendations for their own 
products. I'd reserve the "One Drop" for Harken products. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
To: "CnC CnC discussion list"  
Cc: "David Knecht"  
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 2:47:52 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List winch grease 

Good one, Russ! 

And now back to the topic- I heard back from Harken and they recommend McLube 
One Drop for plastic bearings rather then their winch grease. I had some One 
Drop as that is what I use on the plastic ball bearings in my Harken traveller, 
so I will give it a try in the Barients. Dave 

Aries 
1990 C&C 34+ 
New London, CT 




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Re: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yes the braid is what we're talking about with regards to the lightning
protection.  It is not uncommon for this braid to corrode away.  As I
understand it you leave it uninsulated so that during a lightning strike
the insulation doesn't have a chance to burn off and possibly start a fire.
That's why using the cooper bar stock is appropriate.  I've also seen
copper plumbing pipe bent in a tubing bender and flattened on the ends.
Drill holes in the flat parts to bolt it ad needed.  Again as straight of a
shot as possible is preferred.

The lightning protection should be separated from the DC ground system and
galvanic protection system.  See my previous link for clarification.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 14, 2016 10:09 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Further to this topic.
>
>
>
> Our grounding wire is a braided copper strip approx. 3/8 inch wide and
> flat.  A section has corroded and is no longer attached and that section
> needs to be replaced.  Is this the same thing we are already discussing?
> Han I purchase o new section of this wire in the suitable length and splice
> it somehow?
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, March 11, 2016 12:24 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts
>
>
>
> Take a look at the link.  Specifically page 35 talks about DC grounds,
> galvanic protection, and lightning grounds.
>
> For a lightning ground which is coupling the mast to the keel I would
> consider using copper bar stock.  Keep it as straight as possible and if a
> bend is required, make it gradual.  Bar stock of sufficient width so that a
> hole can be drilled in it large enough to fit a keel bolt.
>
> For a DC ground I would consider drilling a hole in the side of a nut
> which fits the keel bolt.  Tap the hole in the nut and then use that to
> accommodate your ring terminal.  Alternatively, you could drill and tap the
> keel bolt axially and then mount your ring terminal right to the top of the
> keep bolt.  The later option will probably be your cheapest and should keep
> the terminal high enough out of incidental bilge water.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwNze1nnSQ2-U045ODJPZl9Lcnc/view?usp=docslist_api
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mar 11, 2016 9:06 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Eric!
>
>
>
> If you have exposed threads above the existing nuts,  can you just add a
> lock nut on top to secure the wire between the two nuts?
>
>
>
> Danny
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
>
> Date: 3/11/2016 7:54 AM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Eric Frank 
>
> Subject: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts
>
>
>
> I noticed that the grounding wires in the bilge have been cut (since I
> inherited Cat’s Paw in 2005!) so they are not connected to the keel bolts.
> I can splice wires onto the cut ends to reach the bolts, but what is
> recommended as terminals to connect the wires to the bolts?  It would be
> helpful if this did not involve unscrewing the big nuts on the bolts, but
> perhaps some terminals that connect to the top of the bolts?
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List winch grease

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Good one, Russ!  

And now back to the topic- I heard back from Harken and they recommend McLube 
One Drop for plastic bearings rather then their winch grease.  I had some One 
Drop as that is what I use on the plastic ball bearings in my Harken traveller, 
so I will give it a try in the Barients.  Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List Irgarol - reply from Interlux

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

My best guess is, that they switched suppliers.  That’s the problem of using a 
House Brand, they pick the lowest cost provider and keep selling it as their 
own. They probably offshored it. Pettit is Pettit. Interlux is Interlux. 

 

Just my opinion, of course.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Borge 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 2:17 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Irgarol - reply from Interlux

 

Hi Listers,

 

For the last few years I've used the West Marine PCA Gold.  The results have 
been decent for my location in Swansea, MA at the top or Mount Hope Bay.

Last season the paint went on a little tougher than usual, and the weird thing 
was it seemed like a Flat finish, whereas the prior years were shinier (as far 
as bottom paint goes).  And out of the water it is a lot chalkier than last few 
years.  One more thing, it had a kinda purple tint after cleaning some days.

 

Other factors:

Same paint for last 3 years.

Not much build up as I put one coat overall and 2 at waterline and leading 
edges of foils  At haulout, I have some bare spots (but nothing to worry about)

I clean the bottom often, at least 2x/month and toward August and Sept- every 
week.

Launch is first week of May, haul is last week of October.

 

Any thoughts?

West Marine's product advisers didn't have much to say other than meeting EPA 
guidelines means they've had to change to formulas and that 60* at application 
is on the low side.  April in my neighborhood is hard to find many days much 
warmer than that.

 

Thanks,

Chuck B

C&C 34 Elusive

Somerset, MA

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Re: Stus-List Spring recommissioning checklist

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Oh, rub it in. We had some freezing rain this morning.

Marek
in Ottawa, ON

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 09:57
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Spring recommissioning checklist

The weather is warming up. Time to get your boat ready to sail!

Don't know about the rest of you but I'm going sailing today!


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Irgarol - reply from Interlux

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I switched to SeaHawk. I used to get good results with West Marine paint, but 
the last time  I used it, it seems to feed barnacles and make them grow faster ☹
I had to dive and clean the bottom within 1 month of launching ☹
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Borge 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 14:17
To: CnClist
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Irgarol - reply from Interlux

Hi Listers,

For the last few years I've used the West Marine PCA Gold.  The results have 
been decent for my location in Swansea, MA at the top or Mount Hope Bay.
Last season the paint went on a little tougher than usual, and the weird thing 
was it seemed like a Flat finish, whereas the prior years were shinier (as far 
as bottom paint goes).  And out of the water it is a lot chalkier than last few 
years.  One more thing, it had a kinda purple tint after cleaning some days.

Other factors:
Same paint for last 3 years.
Not much build up as I put one coat overall and 2 at waterline and leading 
edges of foils  At haulout, I have some bare spots (but nothing to worry about)
I clean the bottom often, at least 2x/month and toward August and Sept- every 
week.
Launch is first week of May, haul is last week of October.

Any thoughts?
West Marine's product advisers didn't have much to say other than meeting EPA 
guidelines means they've had to change to formulas and that 60* at application 
is on the low side.  April in my neighborhood is hard to find many days much 
warmer than that.

Thanks,
Chuck B
C&C 34 Elusive
Somerset, MA
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Re: Stus-List Irgarol - reply from Interlux

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Hi Listers,

For the last few years I've used the West Marine PCA Gold.  The results
have been decent for my location in Swansea, MA at the top or Mount Hope
Bay.
Last season the paint went on a little tougher than usual, and the weird
thing was it seemed like a Flat finish, whereas the prior years were
shinier (as far as bottom paint goes).  And out of the water it is a lot
chalkier than last few years.  One more thing, it had a kinda purple tint
after cleaning some days.

Other factors:
Same paint for last 3 years.
Not much build up as I put one coat overall and 2 at waterline and leading
edges of foils  At haulout, I have some bare spots (but nothing to worry
about)
I clean the bottom often, at least 2x/month and toward August and Sept-
every week.
Launch is first week of May, haul is last week of October.

Any thoughts?
West Marine's product advisers didn't have much to say other than meeting
EPA guidelines means they've had to change to formulas and that 60* at
application is on the low side.  April in my neighborhood is hard to find
many days much warmer than that.

Thanks,
Chuck B
C&C 34 Elusive
Somerset, MA
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Re: Stus-List Irgarol - reply from Interlux

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Reply from Interlux:

"As Interlux does not manufacture Irgarol it is unknown if and or when 
this product may come back. We are in the same position as everyone else."


I take this to mean that they currently cannot obtain it, and do not 
know if or when it may again be available.


Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Irgarol

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I just emailed Interlux and asked for an unambiguous status on Irgarol. 
I'll let you know if they respond.


Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Irgarol

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

On two separate occasions in the last week, people here in Florida have told me 
that they added powdered hot pepper to their bottom paint. Seems they are 
willing to try just about anything. I don't know of any science behind it, and 
the one guy is an engineer. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 
On the hard
Merritt Island, FL

 Joel Aronson via CnC-List  wrote: 
BASF stopped producing it and said they would move production to China.
Guessing its not in production anywhere.

Joel

On Mon, Mar 14, 2016 at 11:29 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jamestown Distributers just sent out notice on this, that it is
> continuing. (the lack of Irgarol)  I also thought it was only a disruption
> for last season, but they say it is a problem this year as well, and that
> only old stock still has it.  There may be some change in the Irgarol, or
> maybe something else. Maybe they discovered it causes problems and wanted
> to get out before bad stuff happens.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman


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Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have had good luck with this transfer switch:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/kisae-technology--ac-transfer-switches--P014159982

Only thing you need to watch is if you plug something like a heater into it and 
the shore power dies, your batteries will be dead soon after.
If I leave the boat with heat on I make sure the inverter is off.
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Irgarol

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

BASF stopped producing it and said they would move production to China.
Guessing its not in production anywhere.

Joel

On Mon, Mar 14, 2016 at 11:29 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jamestown Distributers just sent out notice on this, that it is
> continuing. (the lack of Irgarol)  I also thought it was only a disruption
> for last season, but they say it is a problem this year as well, and that
> only old stock still has it.  There may be some change in the Irgarol, or
> maybe something else. Maybe they discovered it causes problems and wanted
> to get out before bad stuff happens.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Bina - gmail via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, March 14, 2016 9:42 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Irgarol
>
>
>
> Some paints still have it, so I'm guessing the shortage was temporary.
> That story is from a year ago. I do notice that some paints no longer tout
> it as an ingredient, at least by name.
>
> 
> 
>
>
> 
> 
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 3/14/2016 8:47 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> http://www.totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2015/03/13/antifouling-companies-struggle-with-the-loss-of-herbicide-irgarol/
>
>
>
> Just in case someone hasn’t gotten the whole scoop.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Email address:
>
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
>
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Irgarol

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Jamestown Distributers just sent out notice on this, that it is continuing.
(the lack of Irgarol)  I also thought it was only a disruption for last
season, but they say it is a problem this year as well, and that only old
stock still has it.  There may be some change in the Irgarol, or maybe
something else. Maybe they discovered it causes problems and wanted to get
out before bad stuff happens. 

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Irgarol

 

Some paints still have it, so I'm guessing the shortage was temporary. That
story is from a year ago. I do notice that some paints no longer tout it as
an ingredient, at least by name. 

 


 



Bill Bina

On 3/14/2016 8:47 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:

http://www.totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2015/03/13/antifouling-companies-stru
ggle-with-the-loss-of-herbicide-irgarol/

 

Just in case someone hasn't gotten the whole scoop.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

 






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Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I did this project last year, along with a DC rewire (engine and house banks)

For the inverter / shore power, I installed this from Blue Sea: 
https://dh778tpvmt77t.cloudfront.net/images/products/8467.jpg

It won’t run an air-conditioner (I don’t have one), but it will get the outlets 
working when needed. As a rule, I don’t use the inverter unless the engine is 
running and charging the system. 

See also: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/electrics.jpg 
 

and: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/EnterpriseWiring-Draft.pdf
 

 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










> On Mar 14, 2016, at 10:31 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Yep.
> 
> Shore power -> Main breaker -> A/C, charger, hot water
>   |
>   \/
> Inverter -> rotary switch
>   |
>  \/
> Receptacles
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Mar 14, 2016 at 9:15 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Thanks Dennis
> 
> Got the first part - you effectively created a sub panel for loads allowed to 
> be fed by the inverter.
> 
> For shore power, it sounds like you are feeding the HL panel directly (after 
> the main breaker) and then jumping to the rotary switch which then directs 
> either inverter or shore power to the sub panel.  Did I read that correctly? 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 12, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Mine doesn't have the internal switch but I wired it to ONLY the AC 
>> receptacles via a rotary switch and the receptacles breaker.  I did the same 
>> with a friend's boat.
>> 
>> That is, the switch is between the breaker panel supply buss and the line 
>> side of the AC receptacle breaker.  The high amp AC users can never be 
>> powered by the inverter.  The receptacles are always protected by the 
>> breaker whether fed by shore power or inverter.
>> 
>> On my friend's boat, we cut the buss bar on his breaker panel and wired it 
>> so the bottom 2-3 breakers were dedicated to the receptacles only.  The top 
>> part of the supply buss fed the hot water heater, air conditioner, and other 
>> high amp AC users.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> On Sat, Mar 12, 2016 at 3:54 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> So I'm n the process of upgrading the electrical panel on Paws.  DC is 
>> straightforward using the new 360 panel from Blue Sea (really nice stuff).
>> 
>> I do want to add a small inverter (~1000 watts) routed to the main panel.  
>> Yes I know it won't run air conditioning.
>> 
>> So the plan is to route the AC out from the inverter to a  DP breaker to a 
>> DP rotary source selector switch to the  AC main panel.  The problem is that 
>> every mid sized inverter I've seen (such as the Xantrex Pro series) wants to 
>> control everything via the transfer switch in the inverter.  I don't want a 
>> $300 inverter to have that much control.
>> 
>> Can you simply by-pass the built in transfer switch by not connecting the 
>> inverter "in" line?
>> 
>> Feel free to tell me I'm an idiot.  Already been flamed on CF.
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>> 
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>> 
>> 
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>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto genuinedealz.  I've bought quite often from them.  Fair pricing,
quick shipping.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Mar 14, 2016 at 9:21 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey John,
>
> I just did a complete rewiring of Nobody's Bargain and added a Blue Sea
> panel and an inverter.  However, I'm DC only so I don't have an answer to
> your specific question.  I did just want to tell you where I got the best
> deal on marine DC connectors and heat shrink: www.genuinedealz.com
>
> The name sounds sketchy, but they had far and away the best selection and
> pricing on the important little bits and pieces for my electrical system.
>
> Ryan
> 1976 C&C 30mki
> Nobody's Bargain
> New York
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep.

Shore power -> Main breaker -> A/C, charger, hot water
  |
  \/
Inverter -> rotary switch
  |
 \/
Receptacles

Dennis C.



On Mon, Mar 14, 2016 at 9:15 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Dennis
>
> Got the first part - you effectively created a sub panel for loads allowed
> to be fed by the inverter.
>
> For shore power, it sounds like you are feeding the HL panel directly
> (after the main breaker) and then jumping to the rotary switch which then
> directs either inverter or shore power to the sub panel.  Did I read that
> correctly?
>
> John
>
>
>
> On Mar 12, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Mine doesn't have the internal switch but I wired it to ONLY the AC
> receptacles via a rotary switch and the receptacles breaker.  I did the
> same with a friend's boat.
>
> That is, the switch is between the breaker panel supply buss and the line
> side of the AC receptacle breaker.  The high amp AC users can never be
> powered by the inverter.  The receptacles are always protected by the
> breaker whether fed by shore power or inverter.
>
> On my friend's boat, we cut the buss bar on his breaker panel and wired it
> so the bottom 2-3 breakers were dedicated to the receptacles only.  The top
> part of the supply buss fed the hot water heater, air conditioner, and
> other high amp AC users.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Mar 12, 2016 at 3:54 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> So I'm n the process of upgrading the electrical panel on Paws.  DC is
>> straightforward using the new 360 panel from Blue Sea (really nice stuff).
>>
>> I do want to add a small inverter (~1000 watts) routed to the main
>> panel.  Yes I know it won't run air conditioning.
>>
>> So the plan is to route the AC out from the inverter to a  DP breaker to
>> a DP rotary source selector switch to the  AC main panel.  The problem is
>> that every mid sized inverter I've seen (such as the Xantrex Pro series)
>> wants to control everything via the transfer switch in the inverter.  I
>> don't want a $300 inverter to have that much control.
>>
>> Can you simply by-pass the built in transfer switch by not connecting the
>> inverter "in" line?
>>
>> Feel free to tell me I'm an idiot.  Already been flamed on CF.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
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>>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey John,

I just did a complete rewiring of Nobody's Bargain and added a Blue Sea panel 
and an inverter.  However, I'm DC only so I don't have an answer to your 
specific question.  I did just want to tell you where I got the best deal on 
marine DC connectors and heat shrink: www.genuinedealz.com

The name sounds sketchy, but they had far and away the best selection and 
pricing on the important little bits and pieces for my electrical system.

Ryan
1976 C&C 30mki
Nobody's Bargain
New York
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Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis

Got the first part - you effectively created a sub panel for loads allowed to 
be fed by the inverter.

For shore power, it sounds like you are feeding the HL panel directly (after 
the main breaker) and then jumping to the rotary switch which then directs 
either inverter or shore power to the sub panel.  Did I read that correctly? 

John



> On Mar 12, 2016, at 5:43 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Mine doesn't have the internal switch but I wired it to ONLY the AC 
> receptacles via a rotary switch and the receptacles breaker.  I did the same 
> with a friend's boat.
> 
> That is, the switch is between the breaker panel supply buss and the line 
> side of the AC receptacle breaker.  The high amp AC users can never be 
> powered by the inverter.  The receptacles are always protected by the breaker 
> whether fed by shore power or inverter.
> 
> On my friend's boat, we cut the buss bar on his breaker panel and wired it so 
> the bottom 2-3 breakers were dedicated to the receptacles only.  The top part 
> of the supply buss fed the hot water heater, air conditioner, and other high 
> amp AC users.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Sat, Mar 12, 2016 at 3:54 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> So I'm n the process of upgrading the electrical panel on Paws.  DC is 
> straightforward using the new 360 panel from Blue Sea (really nice stuff).
> 
> I do want to add a small inverter (~1000 watts) routed to the main panel.  
> Yes I know it won't run air conditioning.
> 
> So the plan is to route the AC out from the inverter to a  DP breaker to a DP 
> rotary source selector switch to the  AC main panel.  The problem is that 
> every mid sized inverter I've seen (such as the Xantrex Pro series) wants to 
> control everything via the transfer switch in the inverter.  I don't want a 
> $300 inverter to have that much control.
> 
> Can you simply by-pass the built in transfer switch by not connecting the 
> inverter "in" line?
> 
> Feel free to tell me I'm an idiot.  Already been flamed on CF.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Further to this topic.

Our grounding wire is a braided copper strip approx. 3/8 inch wide and flat.  A 
section has corroded and is no longer attached and that section needs to be 
replaced.  Is this the same thing we are already discussing?  Han I purchase o 
new section of this wire in the suitable length and splice it somehow?

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2016 12:24 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts


Take a look at the link.  Specifically page 35 talks about DC grounds, galvanic 
protection, and lightning grounds.

For a lightning ground which is coupling the mast to the keel I would consider 
using copper bar stock.  Keep it as straight as possible and if a bend is 
required, make it gradual.  Bar stock of sufficient width so that a hole can be 
drilled in it large enough to fit a keel bolt.

For a DC ground I would consider drilling a hole in the side of a nut which 
fits the keel bolt.  Tap the hole in the nut and then use that to accommodate 
your ring terminal.  Alternatively, you could drill and tap the keel bolt 
axially and then mount your ring terminal right to the top of the keep bolt.  
The later option will probably be your cheapest and should keep the terminal 
high enough out of incidental bilge water.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwNze1nnSQ2-U045ODJPZl9Lcnc/view?usp=docslist_api

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 11, 2016 9:06 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Eric!

If you have exposed threads above the existing nuts,  can you just add a lock 
nut on top to secure the wire between the two nuts?

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message 
From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 3/11/2016 7:54 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eric Frank mailto:efran...@mac.com>>
Subject: Stus-List attaching grounding wires to keel bolts

I noticed that the grounding wires in the bilge have been cut (since I 
inherited Cat’s Paw in 2005!) so they are not connected to the keel bolts.  I 
can splice wires onto the cut ends to reach the bolts, but what is recommended 
as terminals to connect the wires to the bolts?  It would be helpful if this 
did not involve unscrewing the big nuts on the bolts, but perhaps some 
terminals that connect to the top of the bolts?
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Wanted - Traveler, Car & "T" track

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

This is also the suitable car for a J27.  If not sold on this list tray that 
one as well

Formerly
Nut Case
J27 #150



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ted Drossos 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2016 2:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ted Drossos
Subject: Stus-List Wanted - Traveler, Car & "T" track

Peter Fell was looking for a Harken windward sheeting traveler and car. I have 
both of these items. A "small boat" windward sheeting adapter kit #213 and a 
"small boat", high load captive bearing traveler car #2727. They are both new 
and still in their original packing. I was just about to put them on eBay along 
with a bunch of other hardware and sails for a C&C 29-2. I wish that the 
cncphotoalbum classified section was still functioning. Is it appropriate to 
list items for sale here?

Ted Drossos
C&C110
Lady in Red
Long Island, NY
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Stus-List Spring recommissioning checklist

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The weather is warming up.  Time to get your boat ready to sail!

Stu and this great web resource have provided a checklist for your spring
recommissioning.  Download it here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/download/checklist.pdf

While you're on the website, consider helping Stu maintain the site by
clicking "Support" under Chandelry Items in the left sidebar.

Don't know about the rest of you but I'm going sailing today!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Irgarol

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Some paints still have it, so I'm guessing the shortage was temporary. 
That story is from a year ago. I do notice that some paints no longer 
tout it as an ingredient, at least by name.






Bill Bina

On 3/14/2016 8:47 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


http://www.totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2015/03/13/antifouling-companies-struggle-with-the-loss-of-herbicide-irgarol/

Just in case someone hasn’t gotten the whole scoop.

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA



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Stus-List Irgarol

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

http://www.totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2015/03/13/antifouling-companies-struggle-with-the-loss-of-herbicide-irgarol/

 

Just in case someone hasn’t gotten the whole scoop.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

 

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