Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

That's one reason I named mine Grenadine :) Two POs ago she was named Ruby, for 
the same reason I presume. Couple photos at 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/asutgi5qq1r05jh/AAA_bb3wRwcat5NlJpecNhY7a?dl=0 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker"  
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:52:30 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry 

Aye! 
Ron 
Wild Cheri 
C 30-1 
STL 




From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  
To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C.  
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:08 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry 

Blasphemy! C's should be RED :) 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 9:24 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or all of 
my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I began 
looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored with the dark 
hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I have 
been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult to maintain and show 
scratches way more than the lighter colors; also , that they are hotter in the 
summer...; so my question to those of you with darker hulls...how much of the 
above is true? Would you go back with a darker color if you had the chance? Any 
other factors I am missing? Many thanks as always 

Richard 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 


-Original Message- 
From: David via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: CNC CNC < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: David < davidrisc...@msn.com > 
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation 

Same here. Never had a need to change. 

David F. Risch 
1981 40-2 
(401) 419-4650 (cell) 




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Re: Stus-List Hull Color

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Nate should have just stuck to designing.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: J Roger via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: J Roger 
 Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 2:26 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Hull Color
   
"There are only two colors to paint a boat, black and white, and only a fool 
would paint a boat black."

By - Nathanael G. Herreshoff


JRoger
C MKIII  Hull# 827

P.S. Please excuse the improper spelling!


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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Aye!RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:08 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry
   
Blasphemy!  C's should be RED  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 9:24 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or all of 
my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I began 
looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored with the dark 
hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I have 
been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult to maintain and show 
scratches way more than the lighter colors; also , that they are hotter in the 
summer...; so my question to those of you with darker hulls...how much of the 
above is true? Would you go back with a darker color if you had the chance?  
Any other factors I am missing? Many thanks as always 
 
Richard
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation

Same here.   Never had a need to change.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



| 
 | 
 |

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Re: Stus-List Hull paint primer

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

Was the 3 coats of high build primer for long boarding to a fair hull?

When I did the decks I was set to do high build 
primer and the paint rep suggested going the regularly spec'd (2 pot) primer.


I have a hull paint project coming up next year 
and the hull needs fairing, so I'm looking for best practices.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:00 AM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
My only substantive comment on paint is to 
consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.  Particularly 
true if you're concerned about 
scratches.  Awlcraft is easier to repair and blend.


Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of 
high build primer.  The Awlcraft looks great!


Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Joel, 
Lumber Yards sell something for exterior trim called "expanded PVC" in sheets, 
4' x 8'. A 3/8" sheet costs $75 and is very bendy. A 3/4" sheet is much stiffer 
and probably better for your battery shelf. You may be able to buy scraps from 
a local lumber yard, or a builder. They also sell a glue in a squeeze tube that 
welds two pieces together so you don't need fasteners. Amazing stuff, 
expensive, but worth it. 

Otherwise, I would choose a marine grade 3/4" thick plywood and paint all sides 
and edges with a good enamel, and set the batteries in proper plastic battery 
boxes, fastened to the shelf using proper straps. 

Chuck S 


- Original Message -

From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Joel Aronson"  
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 12:41:12 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf? 

I need to replace the shelf in the battery compartment on my other boat. 
Plywood with epoxy? Starboard? Something else? 

Thanks! 

Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

When my carbon 150 was recut for use on roller furling, the sailmaker put a 
poly film on the leach and foot to protect the Mylar from UV. The poly film 
looked like Scotch Tape – only about 18” wide. He said the material is used 
fairly commonly on laminated sails that do not have a scrim on the sail. I 
suspect that is the material you mention.

 

The poly film lasted about 2 years on the roller before it needed to be 
replaced. To my comment about short life, the sailmaker said that laminated 
sails without a Dacron scrim should not be left on a roller furler, but should 
be installed before and removed after each race.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:41 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

 

There is another option, but I don’t know precisely what it is. When I was 
shopping for my last headsail, I nearly bought a Z sail 
(http://www.zsails.com). They use some kind of film on the leech that was 
described to me as protecting from UV, but transparent, lighter and better 
shape than sunbrella type material.  I have not seen it in person, but was 
intrigued and they seem to have a good reputation locally for race results.  
Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

There was a sleeve on the Capri-22 I helmed last year. It didn't have those 
shoelaces running up it to tighten it up, and would flail so badly on a windy 
night in the marina that the whole rig would shake to the point where we 
worried about something breaking. We finally hit upon the solution of just 
twisting it around the furled genoa a lot, as we hoisted and zipped the sleeve. 
That took all the slack out, and took care of all the flapping and shaking. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "William Walker via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com 
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 4:49:11 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover 



Have you been in a marina with one of the sleeves on the boat next door in 20 
knows of wind? I have. Think flag. 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail 


On Monday, March 28, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 
Just to make it a little more interesting.. 

With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with: 
http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml 

With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun / rain / pollen 
/ whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be on the furler. ATN's sleeve 
is a bit pricey but it seems to be the way to go. 

Added weight to the sail(s) = 0 

it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails are better 
protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails. 


-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA 




John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for about 
five months a year up here. 

Decisions, decisions? 

? Fred 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( 

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 
> 
> Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject. With that said, I 
> went with Dacron. It is noticeable in light air. 
> 
> John 
> 
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com < mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> wrote: 
>> 
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new suit of 
>> sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun cover for the 
>> headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 5-6 years or 
>> less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing and not left 
>> for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, and more 
>> expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly decreases 
>> performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in the long run 
>> if you are a cruiser). 
>> 
>> Rick Brass 
>> Washington, N 
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Re: Stus-List Headsail sock

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Headsail Socks: 
I own a sock for the headsails. Bought it used for $100 from a local sailmaker. 
You can raise it and protect any headsail from UVs. If it's windy, you can wrap 
your spin halyards around it loosely to stop the floppy parts from making flag 
noises. 

The ATN brand sock has a pullstring system that might work better. I saw a 
North product that had a similar X drawstring design. 

With a helper, I could drop the headsail, flake it on deck, and bag it and 
store it below, but the sail takes up a lot of room inside. And the reason I 
added the furler was to keep the sail out of the cabin. I eventually gave in 
and paid $800 and had the UV protection added to my 144% genoa and that's what 
I use to race and daysail, shorthanded. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "William Walker via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com 
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 6:49:11 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover 



Have you been in a marina with one of the sleeves on the boat next door in 20 
knows of wind? I have. Think flag. 
Bill Walker 
CnC 36 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail 


On Monday, March 28, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 

Just to make it a little more interesting.. 

With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with: 
http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml 

With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun / rain / pollen 
/ whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be on the furler. ATN's sleeve 
is a bit pricey but it seems to be the way to go. 

Added weight to the sail(s) = 0 

it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails are better 
protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails. 


-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA 




John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for about 
five months a year up here. 

Decisions, decisions? 

? Fred 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( 

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 
> 
> Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject. With that said, I 
> went with Dacron. It is noticeable in light air. 
> 
> John 
> 
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com < mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> wrote: 
>> 
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new suit of 
>> sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun cover for the 
>> headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 5-6 years or 
>> less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing and not left 
>> for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, and more 
>> expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly decreases 
>> performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in the long run 
>> if you are a cruiser). 
>> 
>> Rick Brass 
>> Washington, N 
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Re: Stus-List Seaward Princess oven

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

You can change the flow rate of propane into the oven by removing the
temperature dial and using a screwdriver to turn the inner screw on the
shaft. Be prepared for a long wait for things to settle. I put a decent
oven thermometer into the oven and eventually, after much adjusting, got it
reading what the dial said. Took hours.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 28 March 2016 at 19:52, erik hillenmeyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 1984 35-3 has a seaward princess oven, I believe the model 3372.  The
> current issue is that the oven will not light.  After a season of becoming
> progressively hard to light it stopped all together.  The burners seemed to
> still work fine, but I've now noticed that even though the burners work the
> flame is incredibly small and goes out when set below high.  I don't think,
> looking at the pressure gauge, that there is a leak in LP system anywhere.
> I'm not that familiar with these systems so I'm not sure where to look to
> start diagnosing, but am also finding online that parts for these models
> are discontinued and very hard to find except one company that accepts
> cores for repair (Sure Marine Service).  Any advice on diagnosing or
> repairing these ranges?
>
> *Erik*
> *C 35-3 Slapshot*
> *Chicago*
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Seaward Princess oven

[erik hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

My 1984 35-3 has a seaward princess oven, I believe the model 3372.  The 
current issue is that the oven will not light.  After a season of becoming 
progressively hard to light it stopped all together.  The burners seemed to 
still work fine, but I've now noticed that even though the burners work the 
flame is incredibly small and goes out when set below high.  I don't think, 
looking at the pressure gauge, that there is a leak in LP system anywhere.  I'm 
not that familiar with these systems so I'm not sure where to look to start 
diagnosing, but am also finding online that parts for these models are 
discontinued and very hard to find except one company that accepts cores for 
repair (Sure Marine Service).  Any advice on diagnosing or repairing these 
ranges?

Erik
C 35-3 Slapshot
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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#fiberglass-sheets/=11qrb3r

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

There is another option, but I don’t know precisely what it is. When I was 
shopping for my last headsail, I nearly bought a Z sail (http://www.zsails.com 
). They use some kind of film on the leech that was 
described to me as protecting from UV, but transparent, lighter and better 
shape than sunbrella type material.  I have not seen it in person, but was 
intrigued and they seem to have a good reputation locally for race results.  
Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Mar 28, 2016, at 6:49 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Have you been in a marina with one of the sleeves on the boat next door in 20 
> knows of wind?  I have.  Think flag.  
> Bill Walker 
> CnC  36
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, March 28, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Just to make it a little more interesting.. 
> 
> With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with: 
> http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml
>  
> 
> With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun / rain / 
> pollen / whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be on the furler. 
> ATN's sleeve is a bit pricey but it seems to be the way to go.  
> 
> Added weight to the sail(s) = 0
> 
> it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails are better 
> protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails. 
> 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier,  GA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for 
> about five months a year up here.
> 
> Decisions, decisions?
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> > On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
> > > wrote:
> > 
> > Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject.  With that said, 
> > I went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air. 
> > 
> > John
> > 
> >> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> >>  < 
> >> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> >> >> wrote:
> >> 
> >> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new suit 
> >> of sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun cover for 
> >> the headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 5-6 years 
> >> or less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing and not 
> >> left for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, 
> >> and more expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly 
> >> decreases performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in 
> >> the long run if you are a cruiser). 
> >>  
> >> Rick Brass
> >> Washington, N
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

No homopolymer is going to spend the night on my boat if I know about it!  :)

Cheers, Russ


At 06:51 PM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
Delrin®, an industry-trusted name for acetal 
homopolymer. Delrin® is a tough, machinable 
thermoplastic with a high modulus of elasticity, 
high strength, good rigidity, dimensional 
stability, and resistances to moisture, 
chemicals and solvents. It has desirable 
toughness properties, performing well at extreme 
temperatures and under fatigue endurance. A low 
coefficient of friction (COF) alongside 
excellent wear properties, especially in wet or 
moist environments, makes Delrin® one of the 
most widely used engineering thermoplastics on the market today.


Features
[PDF 
Spec Sheet]

•High strength and stiffness
•Excellent dimensional stability
•High crystallinity
•High tensile- and impact strength
•Excellent creep resistance
•Centerline porosity
•Consistent properties in wet or moist environments
•Very low moisture absorption
•Excellent electrical properties
•Easy to machine to close tolerances
•FDA and USDA compliant grades available

Jerry J

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I believe I saw them at Ace Hardware in the drawers where they have specialty 
fasteners and parts. 

Chuck 

- Original Message -

From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"  
To: davidakne...@gmail.com 
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:04:56 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Headliner plugs 

Hi Dave, 

I looked for them as well. I needed 1 in the head. There are a few place that 
carry something that looks like it would work.. 

Amazon 
http://www.amazon.com/White-Plastic-Flush-Type-Plugs/dp/B0046NM0BO/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8=21ev%2BXxmhHL=sims=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_=19H9CYHHNSJCW2XKECDT
 

Other Amazon link: 
http://www.amazon.com/White-Plastic-Flush-Type-Plugs/dp/B0040CX4MU 

However, I found a much easier "Low Hanging Fruit" solution to exactly match 
the originals: Use an original :-) 

If you look under the cabinets around the nav station you'll see a few of 
them.. Since you can't possibly see them unless you are actively straining your 
neck to see under the cabinets I just pried one off and put it in the head. 
Voila ! 

-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA 



Message: 6 
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2016 08:16:53 -0400 
From: David Knecht  
To: CnC CnC discussion list  
Subject: Stus-List Headliner plugs 
Message-ID:  
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 

Does anyone know where to get the 1" plastic caps that cover holes drilled 
through the headliner? Thanks- Dave 

Aries 
1990 C 34+ 
New London, CT 
Regards 



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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

So your battery compartment gets a hardwood floor, the cabin gets plywood?  
That’s gotta be a happy battery.

John

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 9:32 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Considering this is a one-time job, I would forget about any laminated wood 
> product in a marine environment. 
> 
> I used 1" solid red oak, epoxy sealed, as backing plates for my Lewmar 
> primary winches (#50s?). Much stiffer for its thickness than starboard, it 
> cannot delaminate, lighter than aluminum for similar stiffness but it can be 
> worked like any piece of wood. For all practical purposes, the winch and the 
> wood backing plate are now 'one' and if the winch ever leaves the boat 
> (without first removing the backing plate), it will leave the boat with the 
> backing plate attached!
> 
> A few pieces of this stuff or similar would barely notice the battery weight 
> IMHO.
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 
> 
> 
> cenel...@aol.com 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Jake Brodersen 
> Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:04 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?
> 
> Joel,
>  
> Mine rotted and collapsed last season too.  I’m thinking about plywood cover 
> with epoxy.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 12:41
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Joel Aronson >
> Subject: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?
>  
> I need to replace the shelf in the battery compartment  on my other boat.  
> Plywood with epoxy?  Starboard?  Something else?
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

 Delrin®, an industry-trusted name for acetal homopolymer. Delrin® is a tough, 
machinable thermoplastic with a high modulus of elasticity, high strength, good 
rigidity, dimensional stability, and resistances to moisture, chemicals and 
solvents. It has desirable toughness properties, performing well at extreme 
temperatures and under fatigue endurance. A low coefficient of friction (COF) 
alongside excellent wear properties, especially in wet or moist environments, 
makes Delrin® one of the most widely used engineering thermoplastics on the 
market today.

Features
[PDF Spec Sheet]

•   High strength and stiffness
•   Excellent dimensional stability
•   High crystallinity
•   High tensile- and impact strength
•   Excellent creep resistance
•   Centerline porosity
•   Consistent properties in wet or moist environments
•   Very low moisture absorption
•   Excellent electrical properties
•   Easy to machine to close tolerances
•   FDA and USDA compliant grades available


Jerry J


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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Considering this is a one-time job, I would forget about any laminated wood 
product in a marine environment. 


I used 1" solid red oak, epoxy sealed, as backing plates for my Lewmar primary 
winches (#50s?). Much stiffer for its thickness than starboard, it cannot 
delaminate, lighter than aluminum for similar stiffness but it can be worked 
like any piece of wood. For all practical purposes, the winch and the wood 
backing plate are now 'one' and if the winch ever leaves the boat (without 
first removing the backing plate), it will leave the boat with the backing 
plate attached!


A few pieces of this stuff or similar would barely notice the battery weight 
IMHO.


Charlie Nelson





cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:04 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?



Joel,
 
Mine rotted and collapsed last season too.  I’m thinking about plywood cover 
with epoxy.
 
Jake
 
Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 12:41
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?
 

I need to replace the shelf in the battery compartment  on my other boat.  
Plywood with epoxy?  Starboard?  Something else?


 

Thanks!

 

Joel 
301 541 8551


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greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

Mine rotted and collapsed last season too.  I’m thinking about plywood cover 
with epoxy.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 12:41
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

 

I need to replace the shelf in the battery compartment  on my other boat.  
Plywood with epoxy?  Starboard?  Something else?


 

Thanks!

 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Well, you probably know what you're doing. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 28 March 2016 at 17:04, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  wrote:

> It certainly has, Jim. It's funny that in the areas I've used it, I've
> never had a problem with a CQR. That was mostly in sand or mud bottoms over
> a few decades and lots of anchoring.
>
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 28, 2016, at 19:27, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> The reputation of CQR anchors has taken quite a hit lately. I would sooner
> have a Rocna 33 than a CQR 44.
>
> My friend Steve put together a whole series of anchor tests...looky here
> for the reveal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l59f-OjWoq0
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 28 March 2016 at 14:46, wwadjo...@aol.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Danny,
>>
>>   I think you need to get rid of It immediately.  I have read on the
>> internet that owning multiple anchors can be hazardous to your health.  I
>> will send offlist my mailing address.
>>
>> Bill Walker
>>
>> CnC 36
>>
>> Pentwater, Mi
>>
>>
>> Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
>>
>>
>> -- Original message--
>>
>> *From: *Danny Haughey via CnC-List
>>
>> *Date: *Mon, Mar 28, 2016 4:33 PM
>>
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>>
>> *Cc: *Danny Haughey;
>>
>> *Subject:*Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors
>>
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Speaking of anchors,  I bought a 33lb Rocna for my Viking 33 and never
>> even deployed it.  I kept the anchor and it is sitting in my shed.  Rocna
>> recommends a 44lb anchor for the new boat.  The new boat came with a
>> Genuine, Made in Scotland CQR.
>>
>> I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the new boat as it is not
>> rated for it.  I thought about using for a lunch hook but, that doesn't
>> make any sense either as it is pretty heavy, taking the convenience factor
>> out of a lunch hook.
>>
>> I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...  Sell it and use the proceeds
>> for the larger Rocna?  Is that silly given the boat already has an
>> appropriately sized CQR?  We hardly ever anchor and usually get moorings
>> wherever we go.  I'm thinking that will change over time but, we do like
>> the convenience of just grabbing a mooring ball and I think the CQR should
>> suffice for the next season at least.
>>
>> Anyway, just looking for some insights.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Danny
>> Rum Runner IV
>> Tartan 40
>> Mattapoisett, MA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

The old fellow who donated the property for Princess Louisa Park used to live 
in a floating house there. I only met him once but had an epic game of chess 
with him.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine


Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 20:30, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> >… Princess Louisa.
>  
> When I spent a few nights anchored near Chatterbox Falls at the head of the 
> Princess Louisa inlet in a 1980 C 36 we used some of the current from the 
> falls to hold the boat against the bow anchor.
>  
> We motored in towards the sandy shore just off where the river entered the 
> inlet until the bow was in approx. 1 fathom, dropped the anchor (CQR), and 
> backed out feeding chain and rode until the keel was in approx. 5 fathoms.  
> Once the main anchor was set I rowed the much smaller stern anchor (Danforth) 
> out and dropped it in about 15 fathoms.  The combo of bow and stern anchors 
> plus the very still conditions in that spot made for some very quiet nights.
>  
> Princess Louisa is one of those magical places I need to return to with 3 
> weeks of supplies and books and no calendar.  No cell phone coverage, no 
> roads within 40 miles, and the Malibu Rapids to keep out the less dedicated 
> cruisers.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 5:08 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat
>  
> Martin, I did something similar in one of the little bays in the corners in 
> Jervis Inlet on the way up to Princess Louisa. More than 100' on the bow, 
> lots less under the stern and tied to a tree.
>  
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
>  
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Mar 28, 2016, at 19:13, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here in the PNW, especially in the beautiful British Columbia waters around 
> Vancouver Island, stern tying to the shore is common.  I am glad nobody had a 
> cell phone camera the first few times I stern tied to the shore.  After some 
> practice and having the right length and type of line, the process become 
> smoother and less entertaining for those already anchored.
>  
> We once anchored (46lb CQR, 90’ chain, 250’ rode) with the bow in 90’ of 
> water and the stern in 18’ of water.  We stern tied to a huge rock on shore.  
> It was essentially a process of letting out most of the chain and rode, 
> backing in towards shore until the anchor caught on the underwater cliff, 
> then rowing the stern line to shore.  It was a spectacular anchorage, 3,000’ 
> snowcapped mountains visible on either side, eagles nesting on the hill above 
> us, and no other boats within ½ mile.  However, I did not sleep well.  The 
> weather was very settled but the tide and current changes were a concern.  I 
> would drink a big glass of water, sleep for a few hours then get up to “check 
> the anchor”.  For those of you in the PNW, this was in Pendrell Sound, north 
> end of the Desolation Sound area.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… Princess Louisa.

When I spent a few nights anchored near Chatterbox Falls at the head of the 
Princess Louisa inlet in a 1980 C 36 we used some of the current from the 
falls to hold the boat against the bow anchor.

We motored in towards the sandy shore just off where the river entered the 
inlet until the bow was in approx. 1 fathom, dropped the anchor (CQR), and 
backed out feeding chain and rode until the keel was in approx. 5 fathoms.  
Once the main anchor was set I rowed the much smaller stern anchor (Danforth) 
out and dropped it in about 15 fathoms.  The combo of bow and stern anchors 
plus the very still conditions in that spot made for some very quiet nights.

Princess Louisa is one of those magical places I need to return to with 3 weeks 
of supplies and books and no calendar.  No cell phone coverage, no roads within 
40 miles, and the Malibu Rapids to keep out the less dedicated cruisers.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 5:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

Martin, I did something similar in one of the little bays in the corners in 
Jervis Inlet on the way up to Princess Louisa. More than 100' on the bow, lots 
less under the stern and tied to a tree.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Mar 28, 2016, at 19:13, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Here in the PNW, especially in the beautiful British Columbia waters around 
Vancouver Island, stern tying to the shore is common.  I am glad nobody had a 
cell phone camera the first few times I stern tied to the shore.  After some 
practice and having the right length and type of line, the process become 
smoother and less entertaining for those already anchored.

We once anchored (46lb CQR, 90’ chain, 250’ rode) with the bow in 90’ of water 
and the stern in 18’ of water.  We stern tied to a huge rock on shore.  It was 
essentially a process of letting out most of the chain and rode, backing in 
towards shore until the anchor caught on the underwater cliff, then rowing the 
stern line to shore.  It was a spectacular anchorage, 3,000’ snowcapped 
mountains visible on either side, eagles nesting on the hill above us, and no 
other boats within ½ mile.  However, I did not sleep well.  The weather was 
very settled but the tide and current changes were a concern.  I would drink a 
big glass of water, sleep for a few hours then get up to “check the anchor”.  
For those of you in the PNW, this was in Pendrell Sound, north end of the 
Desolation Sound area.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


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Stus-List Hull color

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

Water Phantom came from the factory (1995) with a painted Flag Blue hull, 
thrown into the deal since hull damage during the C factory fire delayed her 
delivery by about a year.

After ~ 16 years she was looking tired so I bit the bullet and had the yard 
repaint with Awlgrip. I struggled with the color since the original color was 
so dark as to look black. Of course, since she was painted initially I had 
little choice but to paint her again.

I decided on Aristo Blue which was a lighter blue and am
happy with the result. The yard painter was very particular--and in this 
situation that is definitely a good thing! I was talked out of a white bottom 
by him as 'too much trouble to keep looking good' and went with black for her 
bottom. Not cheap but I am happy with the result, even though a painted hull 
practically requires a yearly polish and wax job. I refer to it as my 'penance' 
for buying a painted boat!

As a plaque I saw on a boat a few years ago noted, "Life is too short to sail 
an ugly boat" and a tired painted boat looks much more ugly than a tired white 
boat.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb





Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Martin, I did something similar in one of the little bays in the corners in 
Jervis Inlet on the way up to Princess Louisa. More than 100' on the bow, lots 
less under the stern and tied to a tree.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 19:13, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here in the PNW, especially in the beautiful British Columbia waters around 
> Vancouver Island, stern tying to the shore is common.  I am glad nobody had a 
> cell phone camera the first few times I stern tied to the shore.  After some 
> practice and having the right length and type of line, the process become 
> smoother and less entertaining for those already anchored.
>  
> We once anchored (46lb CQR, 90’ chain, 250’ rode) with the bow in 90’ of 
> water and the stern in 18’ of water.  We stern tied to a huge rock on shore.  
> It was essentially a process of letting out most of the chain and rode, 
> backing in towards shore until the anchor caught on the underwater cliff, 
> then rowing the stern line to shore.  It was a spectacular anchorage, 3,000’ 
> snowcapped mountains visible on either side, eagles nesting on the hill above 
> us, and no other boats within ½ mile.  However, I did not sleep well.  The 
> weather was very settled but the tide and current changes were a concern.  I 
> would drink a big glass of water, sleep for a few hours then get up to “check 
> the anchor”.  For those of you in the PNW, this was in Pendrell Sound, north 
> end of the Desolation Sound area.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:31 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat
>  
> How many of us have ever double hooked, bow/stern?
> 
> I've only done it a couple times.  Was a bit behind schedule coming into The 
> Rigolets, the outlet of Lake Pontchartrain into Lake Borgne.  Decided to 
> anchor just off The Rigolets in the West Pearl River.  The West Pearl is a 
> bit narrow, has some crazy fishermen roaring by at 50 knots.  
> 
> I wanted to anchor close by and parallel to the shore to stay well away from 
> and not swing into the channel.  Set the bow anchor up current, drifted down 
> current, set the smaller lunch hook and then pulled the boat back towards the 
> bow anchor.  Done.  Popped a beer. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

It certainly has, Jim. It's funny that in the areas I've used it, I've never 
had a problem with a CQR. That was mostly in sand or mud bottoms over a few 
decades and lots of anchoring.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 19:27, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The reputation of CQR anchors has taken quite a hit lately. I would sooner 
> have a Rocna 33 than a CQR 44.
> 
> My friend Steve put together a whole series of anchor tests...looky here for 
> the reveal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l59f-OjWoq0
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 28 March 2016 at 14:46, wwadjo...@aol.com  wrote:
>> Danny,
>>   I think you need to get rid of It immediately.  I have read on the 
>> internet that owning multiple anchors can be hazardous to your health.  I 
>> will send offlist my mailing address.  
>> Bill Walker
>> CnC 36
>> Pentwater, Mi
>> 
>> Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
>> 
>> -- Original message--
>> From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List
>> Date: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 4:33 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>> Cc: Danny Haughey;
>> Subject:Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors
>> 
>> Hello all,
>>  
>> Speaking of anchors,  I bought a 33lb Rocna for my Viking 33 and never even 
>> deployed it.  I kept the anchor and it is sitting in my shed.  Rocna 
>> recommends a 44lb anchor for the new boat.  The new boat came with a 
>> Genuine, Made in Scotland CQR.
>>  
>> I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the new boat as it is not rated 
>> for it.  I thought about using for a lunch hook but, that doesn't make any 
>> sense either as it is pretty heavy, taking the convenience factor out of a 
>> lunch hook.
>>  
>> I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...  Sell it and use the proceeds for 
>> the larger Rocna?  Is that silly given the boat already has an appropriately 
>> sized CQR?  We hardly ever anchor and usually get moorings wherever we go.  
>> I'm thinking that will change over time but, we do like the convenience of 
>> just grabbing a mooring ball and I think the CQR should suffice for the next 
>> season at least.
>>  
>> Anyway, just looking for some insights.
>>  
>> Thanks,
>> Danny
>> Rum Runner IV
>> Tartan 40
>> Mattapoisett, MA
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

The reputation of CQR anchors has taken quite a hit lately. I would sooner
have a Rocna 33 than a CQR 44.

My friend Steve put together a whole series of anchor tests...looky here
for the reveal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l59f-OjWoq0

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 28 March 2016 at 14:46, wwadjo...@aol.com  wrote:

> Danny,
>
>   I think you need to get rid of It immediately.  I have read on the
> internet that owning multiple anchors can be hazardous to your health.  I
> will send offlist my mailing address.
>
> Bill Walker
>
> CnC 36
>
> Pentwater, Mi
>
>
> Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Danny Haughey via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Mon, Mar 28, 2016 4:33 PM
>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>
> *Cc: *Danny Haughey;
>
> *Subject:*Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Speaking of anchors,  I bought a 33lb Rocna for my Viking 33 and never
> even deployed it.  I kept the anchor and it is sitting in my shed.  Rocna
> recommends a 44lb anchor for the new boat.  The new boat came with a
> Genuine, Made in Scotland CQR.
>
> I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the new boat as it is not
> rated for it.  I thought about using for a lunch hook but, that doesn't
> make any sense either as it is pretty heavy, taking the convenience factor
> out of a lunch hook.
>
> I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...  Sell it and use the proceeds
> for the larger Rocna?  Is that silly given the boat already has an
> appropriately sized CQR?  We hardly ever anchor and usually get moorings
> wherever we go.  I'm thinking that will change over time but, we do like
> the convenience of just grabbing a mooring ball and I think the CQR should
> suffice for the next season at least.
>
> Anyway, just looking for some insights.
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
> Rum Runner IV
> Tartan 40
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Here in the PNW, especially in the beautiful British Columbia waters around 
Vancouver Island, stern tying to the shore is common.  I am glad nobody had a 
cell phone camera the first few times I stern tied to the shore.  After some 
practice and having the right length and type of line, the process become 
smoother and less entertaining for those already anchored.

We once anchored (46lb CQR, 90’ chain, 250’ rode) with the bow in 90’ of water 
and the stern in 18’ of water.  We stern tied to a huge rock on shore.  It was 
essentially a process of letting out most of the chain and rode, backing in 
towards shore until the anchor caught on the underwater cliff, then rowing the 
stern line to shore.  It was a spectacular anchorage, 3,000’ snowcapped 
mountains visible on either side, eagles nesting on the hill above us, and no 
other boats within ½ mile.  However, I did not sleep well.  The weather was 
very settled but the tide and current changes were a concern.  I would drink a 
big glass of water, sleep for a few hours then get up to “check the anchor”.  
For those of you in the PNW, this was in Pendrell Sound, north end of the 
Desolation Sound area.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:31 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

How many of us have ever double hooked, bow/stern?
I've only done it a couple times.  Was a bit behind schedule coming into The 
Rigolets, the outlet of Lake Pontchartrain into Lake Borgne.  Decided to anchor 
just off The Rigolets in the West Pearl River.  The West Pearl is a bit narrow, 
has some crazy fishermen roaring by at 50 knots.

I wanted to anchor close by and parallel to the shore to stay well away from 
and not swing into the channel.  Set the bow anchor up current, drifted down 
current, set the smaller lunch hook and then pulled the boat back towards the 
bow anchor.  Done.  Popped a beer.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Have you been in a marina with one of the sleeves on the boat next door in 20 
knows of wind?  I have.  Think flag.  
Bill Walker 
CnC  36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, March 28, 2016 Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Just to make it a little more interesting.. 

With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with:    
http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml

With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun / rain / pollen 
/ whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be on the furler. ATN's sleeve 
is a bit pricey but it seems to be the way to go.  

Added weight to the sail(s) = 0

it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails are better 
protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier,  GA




John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for about 
five months a year up here.

Decisions, decisions?

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject.  With that said, I 
> went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air. 
> 
> John
> 
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new suit of 
>> sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun cover for the 
>> headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 5-6 years or 
>> less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing and not left 
>> for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, and more 
>> expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly decreases 
>> performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in the long run 
>> if you are a cruiser). 
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, N

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Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Down island I would often set a stern anchor to keep us facing into the
swells rather than rolling our guts out in an otherwise nice harbor.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 6:30 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> How many of us have ever double hooked, bow/stern?
>
> I've only done it a couple times.  Was a bit behind schedule coming into
> The Rigolets, the outlet of Lake Pontchartrain into Lake Borgne.  Decided
> to anchor just off The Rigolets in the West Pearl River.  The West Pearl is
> a bit narrow, has some crazy fishermen roaring by at 50 knots.
>
> I wanted to anchor close by and parallel to the shore to stay well away
> from and not swing into the channel.  Set the bow anchor up current,
> drifted down current, set the smaller lunch hook and then pulled the boat
> back towards the bow anchor.  Done.  Popped a beer.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

How many of us have ever double hooked, bow/stern?

I've only done it a couple times.  Was a bit behind schedule coming into
The Rigolets, the outlet of Lake Pontchartrain into Lake Borgne.  Decided
to anchor just off The Rigolets in the West Pearl River.  The West Pearl is
a bit narrow, has some crazy fishermen roaring by at 50 knots.

I wanted to anchor close by and parallel to the shore to stay well away
from and not swing into the channel.  Set the bow anchor up current,
drifted down current, set the smaller lunch hook and then pulled the boat
back towards the bow anchor.  Done.  Popped a beer.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails now sun cover

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Just to make it a little more interesting.. 

With my (new to me) racing headsails This what I'm going with:
http://www.atninc.com/atn-genoa-sleeve-sailing-equipment.shtml

With the Genoa Sleeve way you have complete protection from sun / rain / 
pollen / whatever for no matter what sail happens to to be on the furler. 
ATN's sleeve is a bit pricey but it seems to be the way to go. 

Added weight to the sail(s) = 0

it's a little more hassle to hoist but this way I feel the sails are 
better protected and I don't have to do anything to the sails. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier,  GA




John ? that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for 
about five months a year up here.

Decisions, decisions?

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
 wrote:
> 
> Pretty much mirrors everything I?ve heard on the subject.  With that 
said, I went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air. 
> 
> John
> 
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>> 
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new 
suit of sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun 
cover for the headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 
5-6 years or less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing 
and not left for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, 
stiffer, and more expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and 
slightly decreases performance), but very much more durable (and a better 
value in the long run if you are a cruiser). 
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, N

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

[wwadjourn]

Danny,  I think you need to get rid of It immediately.  I have read on the 
internet that owning multiple anchors can be hazardous to your health.  I will 
send offlist my mailing address.  Bill WalkerCnC 36Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet



-- Original message--From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Date: Mon, Mar 
28, 2016 4:33 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Danny Haughey;Subject:Stus-List 
Stus List - Speaking of anchors
Hello all, Speaking of anchors,  I bought a 33lb Rocna for my Viking 33 and 
never even deployed it.  I kept the anchor and it is sitting in my shed.  Rocna 
recommends a 44lb anchor for the new boat.  The new boat came with a Genuine, 
Made in Scotland CQR. I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the new boat 
as it is not rated for it.  I thought about using for a lunch hook but, that 
doesn't make any sense either as it is pretty heavy, taking the convenience 
factor out of a lunch hook. I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...  Sell it 
and use the proceeds for the larger Rocna?  Is that silly given the boat 
already has an appropriately sized CQR?  We hardly ever anchor and usually get 
moorings wherever we go.  I'm thinking that will change over time but, we do 
like the convenience of just grabbing a mooring ball and I think the CQR should 
suffice for the next season at least. Anyway, just looking for some insights. 
Thanks,DannyRum Runner IVTartan 40Mattapoisett, MA___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry: Mike Hoyt Photos

[ahycrace--- via CnC-List]

My boat "Liberty"  38' Mk II was done in flag blue 15 years ago and now up 
close it looks like crap from scratches and a few dings from the anchor. We 
also have some cracking in the paint long lines of it near the bow. I have been 
told it is from the hull heating up at different rates ( the paint vs the hull 
). There are a few other boats in our marina with the same problem. I like the 
looks a lot but..just sayin..

Gary Kolc
Apponaug Harbor
Warwick RI
 Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Personally, never been a fan of dark hulls — makes the boat look smaller. 
> 
> Much prefer white hulls. And, if possible, add some kick-ass full-size 
> graphics. 
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/37PlusUpwind.jpg 
> 
> 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/37PlusFull.jpg 
>  
> 
> But maybe that’s just me…. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Mar 28, 2016, at 2:20 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Mike, what an awesome set of photos! I like every one of them! Thank you 
> > for sharing these...I'm ready to go sailing today!
> > 
> > Richard
> > 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> > 
> > Richard N. Bush 
> > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> > Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> > 502-584-7255
> > 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  > >
> > To: cnc-list >
> > Cc: Hoyt, Mike >
> > Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 12:59 pm
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry
> > 
> > … and the argument for Dark hulls???
> >  
> > http://baddeckphotos.com/regatta2015-yachts/#/view/ID256888 
> > 
> >  
> >  
> 


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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,

This is very good advice from Andy.

It is what I was going to say. :)
I have slept a hundred peaceful nights (or more) 
secured, with the original CQR. Check the name 
again, cqr, secured. No coincidence.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:58 PM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
Danny, I think the CQR will suffice nicely. Get 
another anchor when you think you'll need it.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 4:31 PM, Danny Haughey 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hello all,
Â
Speaking of anchors, Â I bought a 33lb Rocna for 
my Viking 33 and never even deployed it.  I 
kept the anchor and it is sitting in my 
shed.  Rocna recommends a 44lb anchor for the 
new boat.  The new boat came with a Genuine, Made in Scotland CQR.

Â
I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the 
new boat as it is not rated for it.  I thought 
about using for a lunch hook but, that doesn't 
make any sense either as it is pretty heavy, 
taking the convenience factor out of a lunch hook.

Â
I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...  Sell 
it and use the proceeds for the larger 
Rocna?  Is that silly given the boat already 
has an appropriately sized CQR?  We hardly ever 
anchor and usually get moorings wherever we 
go.  I'm thinking that will change over time 
but, we do like the convenience of just grabbing 
a mooring ball and I think the CQR should suffice for the next season at least.

Â
Anyway, just looking for some insights.
Â
Thanks,
Danny
Rum Runner IV
Tartan 40
Mattapoisett, MA

___

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of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!





--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Danny, I think the CQR will suffice nicely. Get another anchor when you
think you'll need it.
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 4:31 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Speaking of anchors,  I bought a 33lb Rocna for my Viking 33 and never
> even deployed it.  I kept the anchor and it is sitting in my shed.  Rocna
> recommends a 44lb anchor for the new boat.  The new boat came with a
> Genuine, Made in Scotland CQR.
>
> I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the new boat as it is not
> rated for it.  I thought about using for a lunch hook but, that doesn't
> make any sense either as it is pretty heavy, taking the convenience factor
> out of a lunch hook.
>
> I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...  Sell it and use the proceeds
> for the larger Rocna?  Is that silly given the boat already has an
> appropriately sized CQR?  We hardly ever anchor and usually get moorings
> wherever we go.  I'm thinking that will change over time but, we do like
> the convenience of just grabbing a mooring ball and I think the CQR should
> suffice for the next season at least.
>
> Anyway, just looking for some insights.
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
> Rum Runner IV
> Tartan 40
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Stus List - Speaking of anchors

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello all, Speaking of anchors,  I bought a 33lb Rocna for my Viking 33 and 
never even deployed it.  I kept the anchor and it is sitting in my shed.  Rocna 
recommends a 44lb anchor for the new boat.  The new boat came with a Genuine, 
Made in Scotland CQR. I really can't see any use for the Rocna on the new boat 
as it is not rated for it.  I thought about using for a lunch hook but, that 
doesn't make any sense either as it is pretty heavy, taking the convenience 
factor out of a lunch hook. I'm not sure what to do with the Rocna...  Sell it 
and use the proceeds for the larger Rocna?  Is that silly given the boat 
already has an appropriately sized CQR?  We hardly ever anchor and usually get 
moorings wherever we go.  I'm thinking that will change over time but, we do 
like the convenience of just grabbing a mooring ball and I think the CQR should 
suffice for the next season at least. Anyway, just looking for some insights. 
Thanks,DannyRum Runner IVTartan 40Mattapoisett, MA___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Anchor testing video

[robert via CnC-List]

Someone left a 35' to 37' boat (don't know the make) anchored since last 
Fall in the North West Arm.it has a furling main in the mast and a 
roller furled headsail which was left on the boat.  It has not been 
abandoned as occasionally I see someone on the boat.


Now that sailor obviously knows how to set an anchor.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-03-23 9:32 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,

Here is a nice video showing various anchor being tested.  It uses a 
gopro camera showing an initial setting and then 180 degree shift and 
reset.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l59f-OjWoq0 




-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List UV Sail Protection

[robert via CnC-List]

My 135% Doyle 8.3 oz. Dacron has a UV patch along the leech and 
foot.I just had it replaced this past winter.it lasted 6 seasons 
(6 X 6 months).I could have gotten another season out of the 
original but I wanted a new one..all in cost to replace by the Doyle 
loft was $360.


The UV patch is simply Dacron impregnated with a UV resistant product.  
It blends in with the white sail and you hardly notice it is there.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-03-27 12:45 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new 
suit of sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun 
cover for the headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good 
for 5-6 years or less, and better suited to use on sails used for club 
racing and not left for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is 
heavier, stiffer, and more expensive (which increases initial cost of 
the sail and slightly decreases performance), but very much more 
durable (and a better value in the long run if you are a cruiser).


Rick Brass

Washington, NC




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Stus-List Hull Color

[J Roger via CnC-List]

"There are only two colors to paint a boat, black and white, and only a
fool would paint a boat black."

By - Nathanael G. Herreshoff


JRoger
C MKIII  Hull# 827

P.S. Please excuse the improper spelling!
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Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry: Mike Hoyt Photos

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Personally, never been a fan of dark hulls — makes the boat look smaller. 

Much prefer white hulls. And, if possible, add some kick-ass full-size 
graphics. 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/37PlusUpwind.jpg 


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/37PlusFull.jpg 
 

But maybe that’s just me…. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 




> On Mar 28, 2016, at 2:20 PM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike, what an awesome set of photos! I like every one of them! Thank you for 
> sharing these...I'm ready to go sailing today!
> 
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  >
> To: cnc-list >
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike >
> Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 12:59 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry
> 
> … and the argument for Dark hulls???
>  
> http://baddeckphotos.com/regatta2015-yachts/#/view/ID256888 
> 
>  
>  

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Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry: Mike Hoyt Photos

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Mike, what an awesome set of photos! I like every one of them! Thank you for 
sharing these...I'm ready to go sailing today!

 


Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 12:59 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry



… and the argument for Dark hulls???
 
http://baddeckphotos.com/regatta2015-yachts/#/view/ID256888
 
 



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Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Bob,

If you plan on completing a more extensive repair in the future I recommend 
avoiding filling the voids with epoxy.  All that extra epoxy and filler would 
need to be removed when completing a full repair.

If this season's sailing plans are not expected to push the rudder harder than 
the last few seasons, filling the holes and adding a few layers of cloth over 
the top will likely be strong enough.

When we performed a similar repair on Calypso's rudder we also found evidence 
of past repairs and some wet balsa.  Some of the water intrusion was from a 
recent log strike, some was from past issues.  We used a hole saw to open up 
small areas and check for how extensive the balsa damage was.  Fortunately it 
was limited and only 5 or 6 holes were needed.  We added epoxy/cloth to the 
leading edge after patching the holes. We also repaired the seal at the rudder 
post entry point.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 9:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson
Subject: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a hair line crack in the leading edge of the 
rudder on my 29-2 (1985 built in the US plant)
This weekend, I sanded back from the leading edge about 6 inches in preparation 
for 2 layers of fiberglass cloth to be epoxied over the leading edge.
When I sanded back along the sides of the rudder, I found 8 to 10 holes 3/8 
inch diameter drilled through the port side and a couple of holes on the 
starboard side.
The holes are randomly located different distances from the front edge and over 
the full height of the rudder.
I drilled these old holes out and I am puzzled at what seems to be inside the 
rudder.
The coring appears to be a mixture of deteriorated balsa (I don't think balsa 
coring was ever put into a rudder by C), deteriorated / wet foam and dry foam 
in good condition.
There also seem to be voids behind some of the holes about 2 to 3 inches in 
diameter.
I believe that the rudder must have been repaired by the PO.
I would rather not do a total rebuild on the rudder this spring.
My thoughts are to go ahead with 2 layers of glass cloth (first layer 5 inches 
/ second layer 10 inches wide) epoxied over the leading edge.
I was wondering about filling the rudder with a low viscosity epoxy. I would 
fill the bottom 12 inches first through holes in the sides and then work my way 
to the top of the rudder in 12 inch sections as the lower sections cured.
Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
Has anyone done a similar repair? If so how long has it lasted?
Does anyone know how many tangs are located in the rudder and there 
approximately location?

Fair Winds,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com



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Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

John — that was my thinking, too; and the sail is only on the fuller for about 
five months a year up here.

Decisions, decisions…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 27, 2016, at 10:54 AM, John Pennie via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Pretty much mirrors everything I’ve heard on the subject.  With that said, I 
> went with Dacron.  It is noticeable in light air. 
> 
> John
> 
>> On Mar 27, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> I had a preliminary conversation with my local sailmaker about a new suit of 
>> sails for Imzadi. He was also very down on using a Dacron sun cover for the 
>> headsail. His opinion was that they are typically good for 5-6 years or 
>> less, and better suited to use on sails used for club racing and not left 
>> for long term on the furler. He said Sunberlla is heavier, stiffer, and more 
>> expensive (which increases initial cost of the sail and slightly decreases 
>> performance), but very much more durable (and a better value in the long run 
>> if you are a cruiser). 
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC

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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Joel — I’m with Dave — Starboard will sag under the weight of batteries.  See 
if somebody at one of the marinas or boatyards around you has a partial sheet 
of 19mm marine ply, cut it to fit and either paint or epoxy-coat it.  I think 
you’ll be much happier with the results.  And it’ll weigh a whole lot less, too.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 12:10 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Interestingly I was doing inventory in my shed yesterday and ‘found’ a 2’ X 
> 3’ sheet of 1/2” Starboard that I bought for some projects years ago. 
> Personally, I would not use Starboard for battery support. Too soft and 
> bendy. And even I would balk at the price.
> 
> I just used regular good quality plywood painted white when I redid 
> 
>  the battery support inside the cabin. The factory plywood base for the two 
> house batteries in the starboard cockpit locker is 34-years old and holding 
> up just fine.
> 
> I use those cheap black plastic battery boxes to contain anything that might 
> leak out.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Interestingly I was doing inventory in my shed yesterday and ‘found’ a 2’ X 3’ 
sheet of 1/2” Starboard that I bought for some projects years ago. Personally, 
I would not use Starboard for battery support. Too soft and bendy. And even I 
would balk at the price.

I just used regular good quality plywood painted white when I redid 

 the battery support inside the cabin. The factory plywood base for the two 
house batteries in the starboard cockpit locker is 34-years old and holding up 
just fine.

I use those cheap black plastic battery boxes to contain anything that might 
leak out.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 28, 2016, at 12:59 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Starboard is pretty much invulnerable to anything that comes out of a 
> battery. If you don't need the stiffness of plywood, I'd go with the plastic. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> On 28 March 2016 at 09:41, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  > wrote:
> I need to replace the shelf in the battery compartment  on my other boat.  
> Plywood with epoxy?  Starboard?  Something else?
> 
> Thanks!
>  
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Starboard is pretty much invulnerable to anything that comes out of a
battery. If you don't need the stiffness of plywood, I'd go with the
plastic.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 28 March 2016 at 09:41, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I need to replace the shelf in the battery compartment  on my other boat.
> Plywood with epoxy?  Starboard?  Something else?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

… and the argument for Dark hulls???

http://baddeckphotos.com/regatta2015-yachts/#/view/ID256888



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 1:47 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry

Incredibly happy with the paint job.
Had it done by Steve Stack, Advanced Yacht Works, 
http://www.advancedyachtworks.com/.   He works out of Pensacola Shipyard.
Steve was awesome to work with.  He let me do much of the prep.  Even loaned me 
tools and offered technical advice.
Pensacola Shipyard is a first rate operation.  The shipyard doesn't do any work 
other than haulouts, pressure wash and bottom blasting.  They are host to 
several contractors, of which Steve is one.  I like that concept.  You're not 
"captive".  If one of the contractors doesn't perform, you just have the yard 
move your boat to another contractor's area.  Keeps them honest.
Dennis

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 11:36 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Dennis, I recall that you had your boat, er, yacht, repainted a couple of years 
ago, where did have the work done and we're/are you happy with their work? 
Thanks

Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>
To: CnClist >
Cc: Dennis C. >
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 12:04 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry
My only substantive comment on paint is to consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.  
Particularly true if you're concerned about scratches.  Awlcraft is easier to 
repair and blend.
Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of high build primer.  The 
Awlcraft looks great!

Dennis C.


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Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a hair line crack in the leading edge of
the rudder on my 29-2 (1985 built in the US plant)

This weekend, I sanded back from the leading edge about 6 inches in
preparation for 2 layers of fiberglass cloth to be epoxied over the leading
edge.

When I sanded back along the sides of the rudder, I found 8 to 10 holes 3/8
inch diameter drilled through the port side and a couple of holes on the
starboard side.

The holes are randomly located different distances from the front edge and
over the full height of the rudder.

I drilled these old holes out and I am puzzled at what seems to be inside
the rudder.

The coring appears to be a mixture of deteriorated balsa (I don't think
balsa coring was ever put into a rudder by C), deteriorated / wet foam and
dry foam in good condition.

There also seem to be voids behind some of the holes about 2 to 3 inches in
diameter.

I believe that the rudder must have been repaired by the PO.

I would rather not do a total rebuild on the rudder this spring.

My thoughts are to go ahead with 2 layers of glass cloth (first layer 5
inches / second layer 10 inches wide) epoxied over the leading edge.

I was wondering about filling the rudder with a low viscosity epoxy. I would
fill the bottom 12 inches first through holes in the sides and then work my
way to the top of the rudder in 12 inch sections as the lower sections
cured.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan?

Has anyone done a similar repair? If so how long has it lasted?

Does anyone know how many tangs are located in the rudder and there
approximately location?

 

Fair Winds,

 

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.

Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,

C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,

416-919-2297

bobhick...@rogers.com  

 

 

 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Incredibly happy with the paint job.

Had it done by Steve Stack, Advanced Yacht Works,
http://www.advancedyachtworks.com/.   He works out of Pensacola Shipyard.

Steve was awesome to work with.  He let me do much of the prep.  Even
loaned me tools and offered technical advice.

Pensacola Shipyard is a first rate operation.  The shipyard doesn't do any
work other than haulouts, pressure wash and bottom blasting.  They are host
to several contractors, of which Steve is one.  I like that concept.
You're not "captive".  If one of the contractors doesn't perform, you just
have the yard move your boat to another contractor's area.  Keeps them
honest.

Dennis

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 11:36 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, I recall that you had your boat, er, yacht, repainted a couple of
> years ago, where did have the work done and we're/are you happy with their
> work? Thanks
>
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 12:04 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry
>
> My only substantive comment on paint is to consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.
> Particularly true if you're concerned about scratches.  Awlcraft is easier
> to repair and blend.
>
> Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of high build primer.  The
> Awlcraft looks great!
>
> Dennis C.
>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Best material for battery compartment shelf?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I need to replace the shelf in the battery compartment  on my other boat.
Plywood with epoxy?  Starboard?  Something else?

Thanks!

Joel
301 541 8551
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Richard:

If you go dark - just remember to build a couple of hundred into the budget for 
the really nice fender covers at Maine Pointe.  Also, if your dock line will 
rub on the transom Boat Leather makes an excellent chafe guard with fleece.  
No, you can’t use old socks or West Marine covers on a flag blue hull - it’s 
illegal in 49 states.

I hate to even mention this one but do you race?

John


> On Mar 28, 2016, at 11:42 AM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Richard, 
>  
> If you like the color, go for it.  
>  
> I didn't start at specifically looking for a blue boat, but that's what I 
> have, and I like it.   It's flag blue. 
> While your "experts" are probably correct, their reasons are more technical 
> than substantive.  
> Any scratches won't be visible unless the observer is far too close.  And 
> hotter, possibly, but I doubt any difference would be perceptible.  
>  
> I bought my boat 13 years ago, and its blue hull wasn't pretty, but I started 
> using Poli-Glo years ago, and I refer to it as the "poor man's awlgrip".   It 
> does a pretty good job of hiding all but the worst scratches, and again, 
> beyond 10 feet, no one will see them.
>  
> Other listers have commented on Poli-Glo's benefits as well.
>  
> I can send you "Before" and "After" pics if you like.
>  
> Fair Winds,
>  
> Pete W.
>  
> Siren Song
> 91 C 30-2
> Deltaville, Va.  
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Dennis, I recall that you had your boat, er, yacht, repainted a couple of 
years ago, where did have the work done and we're/are you happy with their 
work? Thanks

 


Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 12:04 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry



My only substantive comment on paint is to consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.  
Particularly true if you're concerned about scratches.  Awlcraft is easier to 
repair and blend.


Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of high build primer.  The 
Awlcraft looks great!



Dennis C.









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Re: Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My only substantive comment on paint is to consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.
Particularly true if you're concerned about scratches.  Awlcraft is easier
to repair and blend.

Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of high build primer.  The
Awlcraft looks great!

Dennis C.

>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

After many months agonizing over hull color, we went to the New England Boat 
show and fell in love with stars and stripes blue.   the Painter thought it was 
not a great idea because matching color for any repairs is very difficult for 
that color but, in the end we just didn't want another color.  Again that was 
emotional decision making. The boat was black and it was a mess!  All the black 
had to be stripped off due to poor preparation of the  previous paint job.   We 
also love flag blue boats but, decided to go lighter for all the reasons 
mentioned and we love this color as well!!  We also like the fact that the 
color is not too common yet but, it is becoming ever more popular. She should 
have been striped Saturday!!!  I can't wait to see her Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2016 11:20:17 -0400


Forest Green with Matterhorn White decks. 
 That was were I was going before seeing the current color I have now. After a 
trip through the boatyard to look a four boats that my painter did, a lighter 
color was the way to go for me. He pointed out all the problems that cropped up 
with darker colors over time. Others in this thread have mentioned them. One 
thing that was intriguing to me was on a Cape Dory Typhoon painted Stars and 
Stripes Blue, on the sunward side, small hull repair fixes, most like little 
plugs, were surfacing. Not so much on the other side. Explained to me as the 
differential in surface heating on the differing underlaying materials causing 
the repairs to pop. The grey'ish hull color that I have now 
doesnt show any salt spray, nicks, scratches or dirt at all. Oh, wait. 
Its still sitting inside a shed.  Never mind.  :-) Best,Dave 
Godwin1982 C 37 - RoninReedville - Chesapeake BayRonins Overdue 
RefitOn Mar 28, 2016, at 11:08 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:Blasphemy!  C's should be RED  :)Dennis 
C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAOn Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 9:24 AM, Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List  wrote:Dave's post reminded me...I am 
going to be in a situation where most or all of my hull may need repainting; 
(blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I began looking at other boats for 
ideas; I have always been enamored with the dark hulls, especially the Flag 
Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I have been warned by the local 
"experts" that they are difficult to maintain and show scratches way more than 
the lighter colors; also , that they are hotter in the summer...; so my 
question to those of you with darker hulls...how much of the above is true? 
Would you go back with a darker color if you had the chance?  Any other factors 
I am missing? Many thanks as always  Richard Richard N. Bush Law Offices  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462  
502-584-7255  -Original Message- From: David via CnC-List 
 To: CNC CNC  Cc: David 
 Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Auto pilot installation Same here.   Never had a need to change.  David F. 
Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have to agree that I pretty much agree with you, Dennis. 

 

Imzadi was originally delivered in a Harvest Gold color (the original purchaser 
tried to change to dark blue, but too late in the build process). One of the 
POs had the boat repainted to Smoke White with Ruby Red triple boot stripes and 
cove moldings, and a red transom. I’ve added Jockey Red canvas to the mix. And 
like the combination so much I will just get the color scheme replicated when I 
have the boat repainted.

 

Guess I’m only a little bit sacrilegious.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 11:09 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

 

Blasphemy!  C's should be RED  :)

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

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Stus-List Subject: Re: Hull color inquiry

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Richard, 
 
If you like the color, go for it.  
 
I didn't start at specifically looking for a blue boat, but that's what I have, 
and I like it.   It's flag blue. 
While your "experts" are probably correct, their reasons are more technical 
than substantive.  
Any scratches won't be visible unless the observer is far too close.  And 
hotter, possibly, but I doubt any difference would be perceptible.  
 
I bought my boat 13 years ago, and its blue hull wasn't pretty, but I started 
using Poli-Glo years ago, and I refer to it as the "poor man's awlgrip".   It 
does a pretty good job of hiding all but the worst scratches, and again, beyond 
10 feet, no one will see them.
 
Other listers have commented on Poli-Glo's benefits as well.
 
I can send you "Before" and "After" pics if you like.
 
Fair Winds,
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
91 C 30-2
Deltaville, Va.  
 
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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Forest Green with Matterhorn White decks. 

That was were I was going before seeing the current color I have now. After a 
trip through the boatyard to look a four boats that my painter did, a lighter 
color was the way to go for me. He pointed out all the problems that cropped up 
with darker colors over time. Others in this thread have mentioned them. One 
thing that was intriguing to me was on a Cape Dory Typhoon painted Stars and 
Stripes Blue, on the sunward side, small hull repair fixes, most like little 
plugs, were surfacing. Not so much on the other side. Explained to me as the 
differential in surface heating on the differing underlaying materials causing 
the repairs to ‘pop’.

The grey'ish hull color that I have now doesn’t show any salt spray, nicks, 
scratches or dirt at all.

Oh, wait. It’s still sitting inside a shed. 

Never mind….  :-)

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Mar 28, 2016, at 11:08 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Blasphemy!  C's should be RED  :)
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 9:24 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or all 
> of my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I 
> began looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored with the 
> dark hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I 
> have been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult to maintain 
> and show scratches way more than the lighter colors; also , that they are 
> hotter in the summer...; so my question to those of you with darker 
> hulls...how much of the above is true? Would you go back with a darker color 
> if you had the chance?  Any other factors I am missing? Many thanks as 
> always 
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: David via CnC-List  >
> To: CNC CNC >
> Cc: David >
> Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation
> 
> Same here.   Never had a need to change.
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650  (cell)
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Blasphemy!  C's should be RED  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 9:24 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or
> all of my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling);
> so I began looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored
> with the dark hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat;
> however, I have been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult
> to maintain and show scratches way more than the lighter colors; also ,
> that they are hotter in the summer...; so my question to those of you with
> darker hulls...how much of the above is true? Would you go back with a
> darker color if you had the chance?  Any other factors I am missing? Many
> thanks as always
>
> Richard
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: David via CnC-List 
> To: CNC CNC 
> Cc: David 
> Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation
>
> Same here.   Never had a need to change.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
>
>
> <#m_-2662917727367472224_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

On my C 29, I mounted the control head in a small pod on the binnacle hand 
rail.  This worked
well as I already had an empty navpod, and I was using an iPhone 
navionics/inavx for navigation.

When I moved the autopilot over to the LF38, I mounted the control head on the 
starboard
cockpit coaming above the hand bilge pump and accessible from the helm.   I 
have a raymarine
e7d chart plotter at the helm, and eventually I’ll network the autopilot to the 
chart plotter so I will 
be able to additional control the autopilot from the chart plotter.

I did consider mounting the control head on the companionway bulkhead, but 
opted for the 
control head access from the helm.  As others noted, this is a smart choice, 
and I’m very 
happy with the set up. It also ended up being the simplest installation 
solution. 

I have an photo of the LF38 set up on my blog:

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/AutopilotWork

On another note, I mounted a standard horizon remote mic (RAM3) along side the 
autopilot control head.  I know that this is changing the subject, but adding 
the RAM3 
was one of the better investments I’ve made. Having VHF access from the helm is
also a smart idea.

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 8:30 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2016 20:36:57 -0400
> From: Annette Reesor  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Auto pilot installation
> Message-ID:
>    >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> We have purchased a wheel pilot for our 1976 C 33, but are wondering
> where others have installed the control head?  The T shaped cockpit doesn't
> seem to have much 'free' space.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> Annette

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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Richard,

Do you plan to paint the boat yourself with a 2 part Polyurethane or would you 
have it done professionally with AwlGrip or equivalent?  About 4 years ago, I 
painted my Royal Blue C 25 with 2 part Interlux Perfection in Mauritius Blue 
(almost black) and if I had to do it over again, I would have gone with a white 
paint.

Several reasons:

1.  As mentioned in other posts, the dark blue shows every scratch, 
imperfection, and blemish.  White, not so much

2.  The primer recommended for the Interlux 2 part paint is white, and the 
color coats are very thin, requiring multiple coats of paint (with appropriate 
prep work in between coats).  I think I put on 4 coats before the white paint 
was no longer revealing through the color coats.  Also, because the undercoats 
are white, any deep scratch will reveal as white, which really detracts from 
the looks of the boat.

3.  Salt Spray really shows if you don’t wash down the boat after sailing.

 

Painting using the Roll and Tip method is a two person job and is not a quick 
process.  Between having the proper weather windows, drying time, prep work 
before and after each coat, deciding to paint the boat myself cost me roughly 
half of our sailing season here in Massachusetts.  To get the painting surface 
perfectly smooth, it almost seems you paint the hull, then sand almost all the 
new paint off so as to not show roller or brush marks and then paint again.  
Sand, paint, repeat… The paint is extremely thin.

Make sure to practice on a vertical surface before you try painting your hull.  
It will be an eye opener for sure. If you have access to an enclosed area that 
could be somewhat temperature controlled, it would be much easier.  

I now understand why boat yards charge so much to Awlgrip a hull.

Cheers,

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1 (SOLD!!!)

 

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com   
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

 

Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or all of 
my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I began 
looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored with the dark 
hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I have 
been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult to maintain and show 
scratches way more than the lighter colors; also , that they are hotter in the 
summer...; so my question to those of you with darker hulls...how much of the 
above is true? Would you go back with a darker color if you had the chance?  
Any other factors I am missing? Many thanks as always 

 

Richard


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: CNC CNC <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David <  davidrisc...@msn.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation

Same here.   Never had a need to change.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)





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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[David via CnC-List]

Richard,

A few things about Flag Blue hulls;

I always smile when I look back when leaving CorsairA big part of the Flag Blue 
appeal for me is combining it with the white bottom, white waterline stripes, 
the white deck, white spars and dark blue canvas.  Not my doing... the PO put 
it all together.  Thank you PO.  (yes the white bottom is a PIA.  Still worth 
it).
Never noticed it being hotter, but then we we are in New England...Yep...need 
to rinse hull occasionally, but looks fine on the mooring 10'+ out.  If I was 
on a dock I would rinse every day.  I am not so I don't and its OK.   
Yep scratches show more.  Oh well.
We plan to repaint again in Flag Blue.There is some print-thru (you really have 
to look for it) that the second coat of Awl-grip, I am told, will take care 
of.Did I already say that when I look back I always smile when leaving Corsair?

No logic about it.   But since when does logic and sailboats co-exist?


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2016 10:24:06 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: bushma...@aol.com



 Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or all of 
my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I began 
looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored with the dark 
hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I have 
been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult to maintain and show 
scratches way more than the lighter colors; also , that they are hotter in the 
summer...; so my question to those of you with darker hulls...how much of the 
above is true? Would you go back with a darker color if you had the chance?  
Any other factors I am missing? Many thanks as always 






 









Richard







Richard N. Bush Law Offices 


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine


Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 


502-584-7255





 






 






-Original Message-


From: David via CnC-List 


To: CNC CNC 


Cc: David 


Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am


Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation













Same here.   Never had a need to change.





David F. Risch


1981 40-2


(401) 419-4650 (cell)
















  








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Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-Nylon-Locking-Hole-Plug-808168/204225716

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

http://us.essentracomponents.com/en-US/caps-plugs/push-fit-plugs/panel-plugs/solid-locking-plugs/solid-locking-plugs-us-p050710
















Solid Locking Plugs

Solid Locking Plugs fit multiple common sheet metal thicknesses with a locking 
feature that snaps and holds the plug in place once applied. Ideal for closing 
access holes on sheet metal panels, automobile bodies, tanks, or anywhere a 
finished look is required.


In Stock!


Free sample available   




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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

After two flag blue hulls I can’t say I noticed them being any hotter.  As was 
mentioned, this is more an emotional emotional issue as the brain would tell 
you anything but white gelcoat makes no practical sense whatsoever. 

My current boat is gray which I actually like very much.  It is easier to keep 
clean than the darker colors but still has some personality.  It wasn’t by 
choice - it’s just the color the boat was when I found the right boat for me.  
Be prepared to rinse the boat off after sailing as salt shows on the blue 
(however the dark streaks from the slotted toe rail are less noticeable!)

John



> On Mar 28, 2016, at 10:30 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I never noticed them being much hotter in the boats I ran, even in the 
> Caribbean sunshine, with the balsa cored hulls, they are well insulated, but 
> they are certainly harder to keep looking good. Also, they are more likely to 
> show print-through, where you see the pattern of the roving beneath the gel 
> coat.
> But man, does a dark hull look pretty on a C!
> 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 10:24 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or all 
> of my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I 
> began looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored with the 
> dark hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I 
> have been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult to maintain 
> and show scratches way more than the lighter colors; also , that they are 
> hotter in the summer...; so my question to those of you with darker 
> hulls...how much of the above is true? Would you go back with a darker color 
> if you had the chance?  Any other factors I am missing? Many thanks as 
> always 
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: David via CnC-List  >
> To: CNC CNC >
> Cc: David >
> Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation
> 
> Same here.   Never had a need to change.
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650  (cell)
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> 
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I never noticed them being much hotter in the boats I ran, even in the
Caribbean sunshine, with the balsa cored hulls, they are well insulated,
but they are certainly harder to keep looking good. Also, they are more
likely to show print-through, where you see the pattern of the roving
beneath the gel coat.
But man, does a dark hull look pretty on a C!

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 10:24 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or
> all of my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling);
> so I began looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored
> with the dark hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat;
> however, I have been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult
> to maintain and show scratches way more than the lighter colors; also ,
> that they are hotter in the summer...; so my question to those of you with
> darker hulls...how much of the above is true? Would you go back with a
> darker color if you had the chance?  Any other factors I am missing? Many
> thanks as always
>
> Richard
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: David via CnC-List 
> To: CNC CNC 
> Cc: David 
> Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation
>
> Same here.   Never had a need to change.
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
>
>
>
> <#m_8698399424885044369_m_3686959299978974879_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I love flag blue

In this case emotion will always win out with me over practicality

Mike
Persistence
Flag Blue topsides
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 11:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or all of 
my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I began 
looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored with the dark 
hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I have 
been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult to maintain and show 
scratches way more than the lighter colors; also , that they are hotter in the 
summer...; so my question to those of you with darker hulls...how much of the 
above is true? Would you go back with a darker color if you had the chance?  
Any other factors I am missing? Many thanks as always

Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List >
To: CNC CNC >
Cc: David >
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation
Same here.   Never had a need to change.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


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Re: Stus-List 27mkIII part out

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Lol - I was going to say this wasn't a great idea until I actually read the ad. 
 It's worth it just for the fittings!

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 28, 2016, at 8:41 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On Kijiji, in waterloo ON:
> http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/kitchener-waterloo/parting-out-everything-from-c-c-27-mk-iii-updated/1094723097?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
> 
> $200 for all the standing rigging. If I had a 27mkIII I'de spring $200 for a 
> spare set of standing rigging, sure.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Hull color inquiry

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Dave's post reminded me...I am going to be in a situation where most or all of 
my hull may need repainting; (blemishes on hull from dock piling); so I began 
looking at other boats for ideas; I have always been enamored with the dark 
hulls, especially the Flag Blue ones like Dave Risch's boat; however, I have 
been warned by the local "experts" that they are difficult to maintain and show 
scratches way more than the lighter colors; also , that they are hotter in the 
summer...; so my question to those of you with darker hulls...how much of the 
above is true? Would you go back with a darker color if you had the chance?  
Any other factors I am missing? Many thanks as always 

 


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 9:48 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation



Same here.   Never had a need to change.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)











  

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Stus-List Headliner plugs

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Dave, 

I looked for them as well.  I needed 1 in the head.  There are a few place 
that carry something that looks like it would work.. 

Amazon 
http://www.amazon.com/White-Plastic-Flush-Type-Plugs/dp/B0046NM0BO/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8=21ev%2BXxmhHL=sims=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_=19H9CYHHNSJCW2XKECDT

Other Amazon link:  
http://www.amazon.com/White-Plastic-Flush-Type-Plugs/dp/B0040CX4MU

However, I found a much easier "Low Hanging Fruit" solution to exactly 
match the originals: Use an original :-) 

 If you look under the cabinets around the nav station you'll see a few of 
them..  Since you can't possibly see them unless you are actively 
straining your neck to see under the cabinets I just pried one off and put 
it in the head.  Voila !

-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA



Message: 6
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2016 08:16:53 -0400
From: David Knecht 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List Headliner plugs
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Does anyone know where to get the 1" plastic caps that cover holes drilled 
through the headliner?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT
Regards



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Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Non ferrous fasteners   http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com/about.php
I ordered 100 which only cost me about 10 cents apiece. Great company and you 
can order online.___

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Re: Stus-List Frolic II 36' cb will be for sale soon

[David via CnC-List]

Tom,

Where is she, pics and do you know how much you want?


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2016 20:08:33 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Frolic II 36' cb will be for sale soon
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: tvince...@msn.com




After some great years of sailing and racing I have decided the 36' C is a 
little too much for this older body. I regret to say that Frolic II will be for 
sale very soon. I am looking at a smaller sailboat and like the Alerion 28 and 
the Harbor 25, both have some good pedigree.
 
I will talking to a broker tomorrow about a listing, in the meantime, if you 
know of anyone that would like to discuss the sale with me, feel free to email 
me at tvince...@msn.com or call 302-540-2078. 
 
Tom Vincent 
  

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Virus-free. www.avast.com


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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Make sure you put the autopilot control head within reach from the helm. I made 
the big mistake of initially mounting it on the bulkhead, not good. I 
eventually relocated it on a pod on the pedestal, big improvement.___

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Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

This company and catalog has every size and shape and color plastic caps.   
Jerry  J

http://us.essentracomponents.com/shop

 
Caps & Plugs Application Guide
Our complete offering of caps & plugs organized by thread or hole size
Download PDF

Order 
Catalog
 

-Original Message-
From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2016 8:52 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs






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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation

[David via CnC-List]

Same here.   Never had a need to change.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2016 20:41:09 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: captnga...@gmail.com

I mounted mine on a Navpod on the pedestal guard on my C 35 Mk 
II.Gary~~~_/)~~



On Sun, Mar 27, 2016 at 8:36 PM, Annette Reesor via CnC-List 
 wrote:
We have purchased a wheel pilot for our 1976 C 33, but are wondering where 
others have installed the control head?  The T shaped cockpit doesn't seem to 
have much 'free' space.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Annette

___



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Re: Stus-List Auto pilot installation

[Rod Randow via CnC-List]

On my 1976/77 C the ST 4000 control head is installed (2001) on the
port T bulkhead (similar to  the engine control panel on the opposite
side). It is mounted as high and aft as quarter berth access will allow.
There is a round inspection port next to and aft of the control head. I do
occasionally bump the buttons with my legs when adjusting lines/sheets. On
this older unit the fluxgate compass is installed under the floor of the
bottom most hanging locker opening.

Rod
C 33-1

On Sun, Mar 27, 2016 at 8:36 PM, Annette Reesor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We have purchased a wheel pilot for our 1976 C 33, but are wondering
> where others have installed the control head?  The T shaped cockpit doesn't
> seem to have much 'free' space.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Annette
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi David

 

Johnsons Hardware on Route 1 in Groton / Poquonnock Bridge

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 8:17 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Headliner plugs

 

Does anyone know where to get the 1" plastic caps that cover holes drilled
through the headliner?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 



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Stus-List 27mkIII part out

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

On Kijiji, in waterloo ON:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/kitchener-waterloo/parting-out-everything-from-c-c-27-mk-iii-updated/1094723097?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

$200 for all the standing rigging. If I had a 27mkIII I'de spring $200 for
a spare set of standing rigging, sure.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Most any hardware store has them, including Lowe's Home Depot Etc. Some look different though, as some are kind of translucent vs solid white. There used to be a really great local hardware that had a huge selection but unfortunately knocked out by the big boxes. But they had not only the even sizes such as 1 inch, three-quarter but also 1 1/16th, and things like that that fit conduit size holes. I'm sure McMaster must have someBill Coleman  Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List  Date: 3/28/2016  8:16 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: CnC CnC discussion list  Cc: David Knecht  Subject: Stus-List Headliner plugs Does anyone know where to get the 1" plastic caps that cover holes drilled through the headliner?  Thanks- Dave
Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT


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Re: Stus-List Max prop angle

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Yup, and a tiny bit more. Useful on occasion.

Ken H.

On 28 March 2016 at 09:29, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Wow, you ought  to be able to get up to eight knots with that setup.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> Date: 3/27/2016 2:46 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ken Heaton 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Max prop angle
>
> This may just confuse thing as our engine is an atypical Yanmar Model:
> 3JH2-TBE so has a turbo and 47 Hp.
>
> Anyway, these are the specs on our prop and its pitch setting in inches (I
> don't know what that translates to in degrees):
>
> Propeller Make:  “J” Prop, Marine Propeller s.r.l
>
> Propeller Size:  18” - 3 blade
>
> Pitch: Set between Notches 7 & 8 R (19")
>
>
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>
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Re: Stus-List Max prop angle

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Wow, you ought  to be able to get up to eight knots with that setup. 


Bill Coleman 

 Original message 
From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
Date: 3/27/2016  2:46 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: Ken Heaton  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Max prop angle 

This may just confuse thing as our engine is an atypical Yanmar Model: 3JH2-TBE 
so has a turbo and 47 Hp.
Anyway, these are the specs on our prop and its pitch setting in inches (I 
don't know what that translates to in degrees):
Propeller Make:  “J” Prop, Marine Propeller s.r.l
Propeller Size:  18” - 3 blade
Pitch: Set between Notches 7 & 8 R (19")

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/

On 24 March 2016 at 09:21, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:
Double check the size.  I think mine is a 16" and I thought it was at 24°.  I 
also suggest getting a laser tach from Amazon.  The Yanmar tachs are notorious 
for being about 200 rpm slow.  Mine was.
It sounds like you already know that the pitch can only be changed in 2° 
increments and for every 2° you change rpm by about 10%.
What do you want to consider max RPM?  Mine had 3, 

max instantaneous = 3600

Max 1 hour = 3400

Max continuous = 3200
It is best to run at 80% load as often as possible.  So for me I pitched the 
prop to 3200 max and try to run at ~2500.
You'll also find that a dirty prop, shaft, and bottom can significantly change 
the load and subsequently change the max achievable rpm.  If your surveyor was 
basing his advice on your boat with a dirty bottom and prop then you may not 
need to do anything other than get them cleaned.  
Engine/fuel problems resulting in reduced power output can also lead one to 
believe that the bottom is dirty or the prop is incorrectly pitched.
When I adjusted my pitch I simply changed it by 1 increment (2°), with plans to 
do additional adjustments in future years if need be.  PM me if you'd like any 
other guidance/advice/details. 
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD
I have a 3 blade Max Prop, 17". The surveyor said to adjust propeller pitch to 
allow the engine to reach top speed in gear.

The current settings are for 24 degrees.

I think I am supposed  to reduce the angle.

I do not know how far off the speed is, so I am thinking of starting at 22.

Anyone else with a 37/40 know their pitch or angle?
Brian Fry

La Neige

37/40 XL

Havre de Grace MD

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___



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greatly appreciated!




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Headliner plugs

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Does anyone know where to get the 1" plastic caps that cover holes drilled 
through the headliner?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



___

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