Re: Stus-List C 33 MK2 Sail Crossover Chart

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Upwind, genoa.
Downwind, spinnaker.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 3 April 2016 at 19:32, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> What is a crossover chart?
>
> Are you referring to the charts that some charter boats provide to help
> determine sails sets for the unfamiliar?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 3, 2016 9:53 PM, "Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a Sail Crossover Chart for a 33 MK2.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Lee
>>
>> Kookaburra C MK2
>>
>> Kenosha, WI
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List stoves

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,

you can be confident in a Force 10 replacement. 
It's what I would consider as first choice, but look at the others.


Cheers, Russ

At 08:19 PM 03/04/2016, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_000D_01D18DF6.EB822060"
Content-Language: en-us

I’m considering replacing the propane 
stove.  Any advice or strong opinions on make/model?

Thanks,
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help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List stoves diesel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The wallas stoves are exceptionally expensive but when you look at the
price for a Force 10, 3 burner stove with oven you could argue that they
are exceptionally expensive.

Josh
On Apr 4, 2016 12:00 AM, "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Curious. Can you cook with diesel and not make everyone sick from the
> smell?  I remember Kerosene stoves and how they made some people queesey.
> I think Diesel would be worse than Kerosene.  Plus I think we started the
> kerosene stove with alchohol, so we had to carry two fuels.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C List" 
> *Cc: *"Josh Muckley" 
> *Sent: *Sunday, April 3, 2016 11:23:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List stoves
>
> Wallas diesel stove.  You can get the add-on butcher block lid that turns
> on a blower and acts as a cabin heater.  And they have an over model.
>
> Diesel gets rid of the dangers of propane.  Diesel is universally
> available in almost every country and port.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 3, 2016 11:19 PM, "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’m considering replacing the propane stove.  Any advice or strong
>> opinions on make/model?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List stoves diesel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

http://www.wallas.fi/index.php?id=22
On Apr 4, 2016 12:00 AM, "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Curious. Can you cook with diesel and not make everyone sick from the
> smell?  I remember Kerosene stoves and how they made some people queesey.
> I think Diesel would be worse than Kerosene.  Plus I think we started the
> kerosene stove with alchohol, so we had to carry two fuels.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C List" 
> *Cc: *"Josh Muckley" 
> *Sent: *Sunday, April 3, 2016 11:23:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List stoves
>
> Wallas diesel stove.  You can get the add-on butcher block lid that turns
> on a blower and acts as a cabin heater.  And they have an over model.
>
> Diesel gets rid of the dangers of propane.  Diesel is universally
> available in almost every country and port.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 3, 2016 11:19 PM, "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’m considering replacing the propane stove.  Any advice or strong
>> opinions on make/model?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List stoves diesel

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yeah the diesel and exhaust is contained and removed by a small fresh air
blower.  There is no open flame.  The cook top is a flat glass top.  It
works similar to their cabin heaters fueled by diesel.

Josh
On Apr 4, 2016 12:00 AM, "Chuck S via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Curious. Can you cook with diesel and not make everyone sick from the
> smell?  I remember Kerosene stoves and how they made some people queesey.
> I think Diesel would be worse than Kerosene.  Plus I think we started the
> kerosene stove with alchohol, so we had to carry two fuels.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C List" 
> *Cc: *"Josh Muckley" 
> *Sent: *Sunday, April 3, 2016 11:23:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List stoves
>
> Wallas diesel stove.  You can get the add-on butcher block lid that turns
> on a blower and acts as a cabin heater.  And they have an over model.
>
> Diesel gets rid of the dangers of propane.  Diesel is universally
> available in almost every country and port.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 3, 2016 11:19 PM, "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’m considering replacing the propane stove.  Any advice or strong
>> opinions on make/model?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List stoves

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

*oven model
On Apr 3, 2016 11:23 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> Wallas diesel stove.  You can get the add-on butcher block lid that turns
> on a blower and acts as a cabin heater.  And they have an over model.
>
> Diesel gets rid of the dangers of propane.  Diesel is universally
> available in almost every country and port.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 3, 2016 11:19 PM, "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’m considering replacing the propane stove.  Any advice or strong
>> opinions on make/model?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List stoves

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Wallas diesel stove.  You can get the add-on butcher block lid that turns
on a blower and acts as a cabin heater.  And they have an over model.

Diesel gets rid of the dangers of propane.  Diesel is universally available
in almost every country and port.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 3, 2016 11:19 PM, "Pete Shelquist via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m considering replacing the propane stove.  Any advice or strong
> opinions on make/model?
>
> Thanks,
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 33 MK2 Sail Crossover Chart

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

What is a crossover chart?

Are you referring to the charts that some charter boats provide to help
determine sails sets for the unfamiliar?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 3, 2016 9:53 PM, "Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Does anyone have a Sail Crossover Chart for a 33 MK2.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lee
>
> Kookaburra C MK2
>
> Kenosha, WI
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 2016 West Coast Rendezvous

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We'll see you there!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Apr 3, 2016, at 6:09 PM, Jim Watts  wrote:
> 
> All C's are invited to the annual rendezvous, at Telegraph Harbour on 
> Thetis Island, August 5-7. Details and a downloadable registration form are 
> at www.candcwest.org. We are actually planning to be there ourselves barring 
> the usual mishaps. 
> We have a catered dinner available in three flavours, the showers are great 
> and it's always lots of fun. It's also usually sunny and hot, so be prepared. 
> Friday night dock party courtesy of Island Yacht Sales. 
>  
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
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Stus-List C 33 MK2 Sail Crossover Chart

[Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a Sail Crossover Chart for a 33 MK2.

 

Thanks,

Lee

Kookaburra C MK2

Kenosha, WI

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Re: Stus-List Hanging a dipole

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Use a Harken Carbo Air Block and it will pretty much never need lubrication
and it won't rust... Or conduct electricity... Or conduct EMF.

A 40mm may be big enough but the 57mm is a guarantee.  Use the cheek
mounted style.  I've provided a link below.  ~$45.

http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=4725=418

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 3, 2016 9:28 PM, "Andrew Frame via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>
> This isn't for my boat, but it is about marine hardware, sort of...
>
> First, background:
>
> I have to hang a dipole antenna for our emergency management amateur radio
> station. We're going to take advantage of some well placed concrete light
> poles in the parking lot. The dipole must be able to be lowered to the
> ground during severe weather, so a pulley will be mounted to the top of
> each of three poles.
>
> Normally, for an easily accessible location, I'd get hardware-store
> galvanized pulleys, lag bolt them to the top of the pole, and grease them
> once or twice a year.
>
> But, accessibility *is* going to be an issue. I have to get the fire
> department's bucket to get to the top of the pole.
>
> So, I pondered using marine stainless hardware and pulleys for the
> installation. I'm not sure, so posting this for those who wish to offer a
> thought. Feel free to respond direct if you don't want to post to the group.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> A!
>
> Andrew Frame
> s/v Otter, C 24
> Alva, Florida
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Hanging a dipole

[Andrew Frame via CnC-List]

This isn't for my boat, but it is about marine hardware, sort of...

First, background:

I have to hang a dipole antenna for our emergency management amateur 
radio station. We're going to take advantage of some well placed 
concrete light poles in the parking lot. The dipole must be able to be 
lowered to the ground during severe weather, so a pulley will be mounted 
to the top of each of three poles.


Normally, for an easily accessible location, I'd get hardware-store 
galvanized pulleys, lag bolt them to the top of the pole, and grease 
them once or twice a year.


But, accessibility *is* going to be an issue. I have to get the fire 
department's bucket to get to the top of the pole.


So, I pondered using marine stainless hardware and pulleys for the 
installation. I'm not sure, so posting this for those who wish to offer 
a thought. Feel free to respond direct if you don't want to post to the 
group.


Thanks in advance,

A!

Andrew Frame
s/v Otter, C 24
Alva, Florida

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Stus-List 2016 West Coast Rendezvous

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

All C's are invited to the annual rendezvous, at Telegraph Harbour on
Thetis Island, August 5-7. Details and a downloadable registration form are
at www.candcwest.org. We are actually planning to be there ourselves
barring the usual mishaps.
We have a catered dinner available in three flavours, the showers are great
and it's always lots of fun. It's also usually sunny and hot, so be
prepared. Friday night dock party courtesy of Island Yacht Sales.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Graham HAD his rudder apart, I hope not to do that again any time soon.  
2 years ago.


The attached pic has been resized to be tiny, it might slip through the 
server.  The rudder structure (frame) on the 35-3 has three sets of 
pieces headed aft, at the post they are about 1.5" apart, at the tail 
end of the rudder they are together and are welded to the vertical piece.


They were not glassed to the skins, in fact the skin popped off pretty 
cleanly.


I was glad I rebuilt mine, I found the welds (where the heat degrades 
the corrosion resistance of the stainless) had corroded pretty badly.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-04-03 8:35 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
I think the tangs that make up the internal reinforcing structure are 
normally glassed to one of the skins so they aren't just bearing 
against foam.  Graham has his rudder apart, perhaps others on the list 
have too, so they could confirm (or correct/refute?) this?


Ken H.

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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jon,

 

The strut inside measurement is 1 ¼”.  The Blackfish should be what you need.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon Pratt 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 3, 2016 14:15
To: Stu 
Cc: Jon Pratt 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

 

Thanks, much appreciated

jp

 

On Sun, Apr 3, 2016 at 9:07 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Jon,

 

The “Blackfish” looks like what I used last time. I can verify the size today 
while I’m at the boat.  Yes, it’s a bit longer than needed, but it’s easy to 
shorten with a hacksaw.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My rudder rebuild pictures.

The tangs/tabs were only attached to one side of the rudder.  This was not
to the rebuilder's approval and was corrected during the rebuild.

I doubt that it is possible to dry the foam without completely removing one
of the sides.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 3, 2016 12:11 PM, "Bob Hickson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Hi Bev,
> Is your mainsail closed footed (foot has a bolt rope that slides in a
> groove
> along the boom) or open footed (just a single slug at the clew)?
> If it has a close foot, there is little that you can do as the friction is
> mostly the bolt rope sliding in the groove in the boom.
> Mine is open footed with a single slug at the clew. I always spray the
> sheaves with dry film lube in the spring and this helps. However, I need
> assistance from the winch to adjust the outhaul even in fairly light
> breezes.
>
> Earlier, I posted about rudder issues on my 29-2.
> With further investigation, it appears that the previous owner had the
> rudder repaired previously. I have enlarged the existing holes to let the
> core dry out and allow me to probe inside the rudder with a thin wire. I
> have been able to confirm that the rudder is entirely filled with foam that
> appears to be in reasonable condition now that it is dry. There is no solid
> steel plate in the center of the rudder as most holes can be probed through
> to the opposite inside skin face with no problem. I will drill as few more
> strategically placed holes to try to locate the metal tangs inside the
> rudder. It is pretty obvious that the rudder skin was removed and replaced
> in the previous repair but the joint between the two halves of the rudder
> skin was simple filled with epoxy with no "bandage" of glass cloth / resin
> added over the joint.
> I will update again with further information.
> If I can locate the tangs and confirm that good foam surrounds them then I
> will fill the holes and cover the front 50% of the rudder with a layer of
> glass cloth / epoxy.
> If there are voids around the tangs then I will inject epoxy through holes
> to ensure that there is no movement of the rudder body in relation to the
> rudder post / tangs and then cover the front 50% of the rudder with glass
> cloth epoxy.
> I have already added a 3 inch wide strip of glass cloth / epoxy over the
> hair line crack in the leading edge.
> The above repair will add a second layer over the joint in the leading
> edge.
>
>
> Fair Winds,
>
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
> C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
> 416-919-2297
> bobhick...@rogers.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 14:58:41 + (UTC)
> From: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List outhaul-29-2
> Message-ID:
> <1072703862.1950121.1459695521579.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom
> always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines?
> Get rid of the wire??
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160403/6f
> 889ca2/attachment-0001.html>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Bluetooth Speakers on Deck

[jim schwartz via CnC-List]

have exactly what you are looking for.  jbl bluetooth speaker.  6" high by 3" 
cylinder.  sounds are great.  10 hour  before recharge. operates off samsung 5 
phone.
jim schwartz
SEA YA!
38 LF




-Original Message-
From: Jim Giffing via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jim Giffing 
Sent: Sat, Apr 2, 2016 8:18 pm
Subject: Stus-List Bluetooth Speakers on Deck



Anyone have any experience with portable bluetooth speakers on deck?
Been considering mounting one on my stern pulpit,
Want something with long battery life... full day
Will pair it with my iphone which I will likely leave below deck
And care about sound quality with rich bass, etc,


Just wondering --- been googling reviews, but nope found for boats.

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Re: Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I think the tangs that make up the internal reinforcing structure are
normally glassed to one of the skins so they aren't just bearing against
foam.  Graham has his rudder apart, perhaps others on the list have too, so
they could confirm (or correct/refute?) this?

Ken H.

On 3 April 2016 at 13:10, Bob Hickson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Hi Bev,
> Is your mainsail closed footed (foot has a bolt rope that slides in a
> groove
> along the boom) or open footed (just a single slug at the clew)?
> If it has a close foot, there is little that you can do as the friction is
> mostly the bolt rope sliding in the groove in the boom.
> Mine is open footed with a single slug at the clew. I always spray the
> sheaves with dry film lube in the spring and this helps. However, I need
> assistance from the winch to adjust the outhaul even in fairly light
> breezes.
>
> Earlier, I posted about rudder issues on my 29-2.
> With further investigation, it appears that the previous owner had the
> rudder repaired previously. I have enlarged the existing holes to let the
> core dry out and allow me to probe inside the rudder with a thin wire. I
> have been able to confirm that the rudder is entirely filled with foam that
> appears to be in reasonable condition now that it is dry. There is no solid
> steel plate in the center of the rudder as most holes can be probed through
> to the opposite inside skin face with no problem. I will drill as few more
> strategically placed holes to try to locate the metal tangs inside the
> rudder. It is pretty obvious that the rudder skin was removed and replaced
> in the previous repair but the joint between the two halves of the rudder
> skin was simple filled with epoxy with no "bandage" of glass cloth / resin
> added over the joint.
> I will update again with further information.
> If I can locate the tangs and confirm that good foam surrounds them then I
> will fill the holes and cover the front 50% of the rudder with a layer of
> glass cloth / epoxy.
> If there are voids around the tangs then I will inject epoxy through holes
> to ensure that there is no movement of the rudder body in relation to the
> rudder post / tangs and then cover the front 50% of the rudder with glass
> cloth epoxy.
> I have already added a 3 inch wide strip of glass cloth / epoxy over the
> hair line crack in the leading edge.
> The above repair will add a second layer over the joint in the leading
> edge.
>
>
> Fair Winds,
>
> Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
> Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
> C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
> 416-919-2297
> bobhick...@rogers.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 14:58:41 + (UTC)
> From: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List outhaul-29-2
> Message-ID:
> <1072703862.1950121.1459695521579.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom
> always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines?
> Get rid of the wire??
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160403/6f
> 889ca2/attachment-0001.html>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Afloat again

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

There is this, shot by a broker a couple of years ago.  The mast is
actually quite a bit taller than it looks in the video.  Lens distortion?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KHoI-fNJB4

Ken H.

On 3 April 2016 at 13:42, Phygital via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I'm new to the this list and in the process of acquiring a C I've been
> reading the emails for the last week and I can say everyone on this list is
> super. So many other lists draw so much negativity. I guess C's really do
> being out the best in people :).
>
> Your boat is really nice. Do you have any additional pics you can share.
> Curious to see the interior as well.
>
> Regards,
>
> John
> To be C owner
>
>
> /J
>
> On Apr 3, 2016, at 8:03 AM, Brian Fry  wrote:
>
> It is Awlgrip Flag Blue 5002.
>
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2016 10:32:54 -0400
> > From: "Richard N. Bush" 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Afloat again
> > Message-ID: <153d7641851-18f7-7...@webprd-m33.mail.aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> >
> >  Great looking boat! What is the color? Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Richard
> > 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio river, mile 596;
> >
> >
> >
> > Richard N. Bush
> > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> > Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> > 502-584-7255
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Afloat again

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Follow us on FB
https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

Checkout the brokers listing for lots of pics:
http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1993-c-c-37-40-xl-4726841/#.VwGY2o4pDbV

I tried emailing direct to you, but gmail returned as failed

>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 12:42:00 -0400
> From: Phygital 
> To: biker...@yahoo.com
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Afloat again
> Message-ID: <03b2c216-395d-4d0e-9318-4492c6174...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm new to the this list and in the process of acquiring a C I've been
reading the emails for the last week and I can say everyone on this list is
super. So many other lists draw so much negativity. I guess C's really do
being out the best in people :).
>
> Your boat is really nice. Do you have any additional pics you can share.
Curious to see the interior as well.
>
> Regards,
>
> John
> To be C owner
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Re: Stus-List Free Stuff...

[David via CnC-List]

Only at the Publick House...

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: hhallgr...@icloud.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Free Stuff...
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 16:39:43 -0400
To: davidrisc...@msn.com

Do the ice trays come with drinks?

Sent from my iPad
On Apr 3, 2016, at 4:32 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:









And Don got everything else.   







Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone





 Original message 

From: Don Harben  

Date: 04/03/2016 4:08 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: David  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Free Stuff... 





Hi David,



I am interested in any from the list below. I would make a contribution to Stu 
as well as paying postage.  



Don


#1 (1) Signet instrument cover (square)#2 (2) 9' long handrail covers.  Dark 
blue and in decent shape. #3 (3) upright ice trays#4 (5) 5" dark blue winch 
covers (all in good shape)#5(1) 4" dark blue winch cover#6 (2) 8" dark blue 
winch covers




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Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List Free Stuff...

[David via CnC-List]

And Don got everything else.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Don Harben 
Date: 04/03/2016  4:08 PM  (GMT-05:00)
To: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Free Stuff...

Hi David,

I am interested in any from the list below. I would make a contribution to Stu 
as well as paying postage.

Don
> #1 (1) Signet instrument cover (square)
> #2 (2) 9' long handrail covers.  Dark blue and in decent shape.
> #3 (3) upright ice trays
> #4 (5) 5" dark blue winch covers (all in good shape)
> #5(1) 4" dark blue winch cover
> #6 (2) 8" dark blue winch covers
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Re: Stus-List Free Stuff...

[David via CnC-List]

Josh Was first On trays...


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley 
Date: 04/03/2016  4:02 PM  (GMT-05:00)
To: David Risch 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Free Stuff...

I'd be interested in the upright ice trays.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 3, 2016 3:33 PM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Cleaning out the basement and thought I would offer the following odd
> items up to anyone in need
>
>
>- (1) Signet instrument cover (square)
>- (2) ST60 Instrument covers
>- (2) 9' long handrail covers.  Dark blue and in decent shape.
>- (1) 26" long handrail cover
>- (3) upright ice trays
>- (5) 5" dark blue winch covers (all in good shape)
>- (1) 4" dark blue winch cover
>- (2) 8" dark blue winch covers
>
>
> Pay shipping etc and its yours...
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_920749038637536012_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Free Stuff...

[William Walker via CnC-List]

David,
 I sent text with my contact info.  Would love the ice cube trays and winch 
covers.  

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, April 3, 2016 David via CnC-List  wrote:

Cleaning out the basement and thought I would offer the following odd items up 
to anyone in need

(1) Signet instrument cover (square)(2) ST60 Instrument covers(2) 9' long 
handrail covers.  Dark blue and in decent shape.  (1) 26" long handrail 
cover(3) upright ice trays(5) 5" dark blue winch covers (all in good shape)(1) 
4" dark blue winch cover(2) 8" dark blue winch covers
Pay shipping etc and its yours...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Virus-free. www.avast.com  

 

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Stus-List Bottom Paint

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have 2 half full gallons of Interlux CSC - one blue and one red.  Perfectly
fine paint - I changed brands last year.  $75 each.  Local pick up

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



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Re: Stus-List Polars for LF 38

[N7FN--- via CnC-List]

John,

Please send me an email direct.

Frank Noragon
C 38LF, SN: 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

-Original Message- 
From: John Sandford via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 20:29 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Sandford 
Subject: Stus-List Polars for LF 38 


Does anyone have Polars for a LF38 that they would like to share?
Thanks
John


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Stus-List Free Stuff...

[David via CnC-List]

Cleaning out the basement and thought I would offer the following odd items up 
to anyone in need

(1) Signet instrument cover (square)(2) ST60 Instrument covers(2) 9' long 
handrail covers.  Dark blue and in decent shape.  (1) 26" long handrail 
cover(3) upright ice trays(5) 5" dark blue winch covers (all in good shape)(1) 
4" dark blue winch cover(2) 8" dark blue winch covers
Pay shipping etc and its yours...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)




Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Jon Pratt via CnC-List]

Thanks, much appreciated
jp

On Sun, Apr 3, 2016 at 9:07 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jon,
>
>
>
> The “Blackfish” looks like what I used last time. I can verify the size
> today while I’m at the boat.  Yes, it’s a bit longer than needed, but it’s
> easy to shorten with a hacksaw.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jon
> Pratt via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, April 1, 2016 20:09
> *To:* Stu 
> *Cc:* Jon Pratt 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing
>
>
>
> Off the top of your head, do you know the dimensions of the cutlass
> bearing for the 35-3?
>
> 1" shaft I know. length and outside diameter is what I'm looking for. I'm
> 2 1/2 hours away. Looking to save a trip.
>
> A friend said he would lend me his strup-pro.
>
> jp
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 8:37 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Erik,
>
>
>
> I’ve done the cutless bearing on my boat twice.  I’ve removed the rudder
> both times.  It’s not that hard and it went quicker the second time
> around.  As others have said, removing the shaft from the coupling is
> usually the hardest part.  I had a friend that build a jig to push the
> shaft out.  Worked great.  The first time I used sockets between the
> coupler faces to force the shaft out.  It was a slow painful process.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List outhaul-29-2

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I forgot to mention that operating the outhaul under load almost always
requires easing the mainsheet.  Since the mainsheet is already pulling the
leach tight (hypotenus) there is no room to extend the foot (base).  When
you tighten the foot (either with a reefing line or the outhaul) the
mainsheet has to let the boom "come up" to meet the clew since the leach is
a fixed length.  This is also why raising the mainsail requires loosing the
mainsheet prior to fully tightening the halyard.

A coordinated "pinch up" can make this adjustment pretty quick and
effortlessly.  Have the helm pinch up.  Easy the mainsheet.  Pull the
outhaul.   Harden the mainsheet and/or traveller up.  Helm fall back off to
a beat.

Josh
On Apr 3, 2016 11:00 AM, "Bev Parslow via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom
> always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines?
> Get rid of the wire?
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List outhaul-29-2

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The wire is from a time long past.  There is little reason not to switch to
rope.  Wire used to be stronger and lighter with less stretch.  Now its
only real selling point is chaff resistance and is accompanied by a host of
disadvantages.  Harder to splice, harder to cut, harder to terminate, when
it chaffs it creates meat hooks, and adds wear to your sheaves to name a
few.   We're replacing ours (probably with dyneama).

Are you saying that operating the outhaul is difficult or are you saying
that the rope is physically stiff?  If the rope is stiff then no there is
probably little you can do.  Sta-Set X is notoriously stiff.  If OTOH you
are saying that the outhaul is difficult to operate then I would look at a
couple of things.  Check the friction and diameter of each of the turning
blocks in the boom.  Check or replace the slide which goes in the boom end
(loose footed).  McLube the boom track .  Consider adding a purchase system
inside or outside the boom.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Afloat again

[Phygital via CnC-List]

Hi,

I'm new to the this list and in the process of acquiring a C I've been 
reading the emails for the last week and I can say everyone on this list is 
super. So many other lists draw so much negativity. I guess C's really do 
being out the best in people :).

Your boat is really nice. Do you have any additional pics you can share. 
Curious to see the interior as well.

Regards,

John
To be C owner


/J

> On Apr 3, 2016, at 8:03 AM, Brian Fry  wrote:
> 
> It is Awlgrip Flag Blue 5002.
> 
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2016 10:32:54 -0400
> > From: "Richard N. Bush" 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Afloat again
> > Message-ID: <153d7641851-18f7-7...@webprd-m33.mail.aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> >
> >  Great looking boat! What is the color? Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Richard
> > 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio river, mile 596;
> >
> >
> >
> > Richard N. Bush
> > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> > Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> > 502-584-7255
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Re: Stus-List Remove silicone

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I would add that you will have the best results and use the least about of
remover if you take the time to mechanically remove/peal as much of the
silicone as possible.  The 3M Adhesive Remover can them be used to just
remove the residue.

Anybody have any experience with the 3m adhesive remover and its effects on
other silicone products like the residue from dielectric grease or
Armour-All?  Even some kids toys are made from silicone gel (creepy
crawlers and splat balls).  They can leave a residue on the walls that is
impossible to clean or paint.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 2, 2016 4:33 PM, "Franklin Schenk via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am trying to reseal the windows on a C 29.  The previous owner used
> Silicone and I would like to remove it and use the butyl tape.  I read that
> carburetor cleaner works better than acetone.  I am open to any suggestions.
>
> The spacing on the machine screws also appear to be very large.  I was
> thinking about adding a few more screws at 5 to 6 inches apart.
>
> Frank
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List C 29 - 2 Outhaul and Rudder update

[Bob Hickson via CnC-List]

Hi Bev,
Is your mainsail closed footed (foot has a bolt rope that slides in a groove
along the boom) or open footed (just a single slug at the clew)?
If it has a close foot, there is little that you can do as the friction is
mostly the bolt rope sliding in the groove in the boom.
Mine is open footed with a single slug at the clew. I always spray the
sheaves with dry film lube in the spring and this helps. However, I need
assistance from the winch to adjust the outhaul even in fairly light
breezes.

Earlier, I posted about rudder issues on my 29-2.
With further investigation, it appears that the previous owner had the
rudder repaired previously. I have enlarged the existing holes to let the
core dry out and allow me to probe inside the rudder with a thin wire. I
have been able to confirm that the rudder is entirely filled with foam that
appears to be in reasonable condition now that it is dry. There is no solid
steel plate in the center of the rudder as most holes can be probed through
to the opposite inside skin face with no problem. I will drill as few more
strategically placed holes to try to locate the metal tangs inside the
rudder. It is pretty obvious that the rudder skin was removed and replaced
in the previous repair but the joint between the two halves of the rudder
skin was simple filled with epoxy with no "bandage" of glass cloth / resin
added over the joint.
I will update again with further information.
If I can locate the tangs and confirm that good foam surrounds them then I
will fill the holes and cover the front 50% of the rudder with a layer of
glass cloth / epoxy.
If there are voids around the tangs then I will inject epoxy through holes
to ensure that there is no movement of the rudder body in relation to the
rudder post / tangs and then cover the front 50% of the rudder with glass
cloth epoxy.
I have already added a 3 inch wide strip of glass cloth / epoxy over the
hair line crack in the leading edge.
The above repair will add a second layer over the joint in the leading edge.


Fair Winds,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com





Message: 4
Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 14:58:41 + (UTC)
From: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List outhaul-29-2
Message-ID:
<1072703862.1950121.1459695521579.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom
always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines?
Get rid of the wire??
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160403/6f
889ca2/attachment-0001.html>


 

 



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Re: Stus-List Remove silicone

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

That's the stuff I was thinking of. Thanks, Bill

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
BillBinaList via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 03, 2016 7:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: BillBinaList 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Remove silicone

 

 



Bill Bina

On 4/2/2016 10:15 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

3M makes a product that is specifically designed to remove silicone. Almost
nothing else will do it. Unfortunately I've used up my supply and can't
recall the product name.

 

I learned about the stuff when rebuilding my A hatches, using Sika 295 as
the adhesive. The SIKA won't properly adhere to the hatch frame if there is
any silicone residue (which there was, thanks to the PO). Perhaps the folks
at Sika can tell you the name of the product.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Franklin
Schenk via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 4:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Franklin Schenk   
Subject: Stus-List Remove silicone

 

I am trying to reseal the windows on a C 29.  The previous owner used
Silicone and I would like to remove it and use the butyl tape.  I read that
carburetor cleaner works better than acetone.  I am open to any suggestions.

 

The spacing on the machine screws also appear to be very large.  I was
thinking about adding a few more screws at 5 to 6 inches apart.

 

Frank 






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are greatly appreciated!

 

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Stus-List outhaul-29-2

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom 
always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines? Get 
rid of the wire? ___

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Re: Stus-List *****SPAM***** Re: A little help from our neighbors up north...

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Thanks all - very very helpful.

Sounds just like Jersey City!

John

> On Apr 2, 2016, at 6:12 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A beautiful part of the world, though I may be biased.   As mentioned 
> previously, the fundy side is a tide and fog (and whale) festival - beautiful 
> country but navigation and currents can be tricky close inshore.
> If you are sailing north you will probably be intending to make your first 
> landfall somewhere between Yarmouth and Halifax.   That stretch of coast is 
> known as the "south shore" and has great harbours civilized small towns, huge 
> secluded beaches and really beautiful scenery.  (full disclosure, I have a 
> house in that area)  
> Be ready for morning fogs inshore.  You are certainly not likely to be 
> becalmed, but before mid july you are not guaranteed sunny days, weather is 
> better in August, and at least on land, September is fantastic.You have a 
> great piece of coast there to cruise and anchor, stopping in at towns all 
> along the way.   Shelburne is great, has a friendly yachtclub, all services, 
> one of the largest natural harbours in the world.  (was a marshalling point 
> for WWII convoys)  Halfway up the harbour Wave to my house as you pass the 
> 19th century lighthouse, look across the harbour, and wave to my dad.   If 
> you see a tan coloured steel trawler yacht "J. Michael" on a mooring in his 
> "front yard" it's his.  Check out what's going on at The Osprey Theatre,  
> have dinner at Charlotte lane.  Reserve both in advance.  A short hop up the 
> coast and anchor at carter's beach.   Dinghy to dinner dinner at "The Quarter 
> Deck".   I can vouch for the anchorages in both places.  (Dad was a 
> steel-sailboated ocean cruiser - and has coastal cruised this neighbourhood 
> many times, by sail and now by trawler.)
> Keep going up the coast to Mahone bay, check out when the wooden boat 
> festival is, hit the bakery, and continue to chester, check when race week 
> is.  closest thing to Newport I suppose.  ooops, I missed very beautiful 
> Lunenburg, but don't you miss that, and when you are there you must check out 
> the fisheries museum of the Atlantic.  OK, back on track, by now you are at 
> Halifax.  Lots to do there, great downtown, and don't miss the market.  
> Dinner at the bicycle thief.  Your next stretch of coast is more remote and 
> rural.  How's that for a start?
> Real - Nova Scotians - I don't know all the anchorages, there are many many, 
> (Jordan bay and the LeHave River come to mind) but otherwise, how'd I do?  ;-)
> 
> Another thought - look at your chart and see the birthplace of Joshua Slocum 
> (yes, he was Canadian - ) Brier Island.   It is at the end of a chain of 
> islands and truly feels like the end of the world, You can see the shop where 
> he toiled as a child (mentioned in SAATW) and understand why he might have 
> got the urge to ramble.   If you can, go whale watching from there, and go by 
> zodiac, not on one of the big cape islanders. (local inshore fishing boat 
> type)   Have done this twice with visitors and it has been amazing, both 
> times.  
> 
> Oh yeah - you can get some pretty good seafood in the area. ;-)
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2016 09:18:29 -0300
> From: Ken Heaton >
> To: cnc-list >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List A little help from our neighbors up north...
> Message-ID:
> 

Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

I just bought one for the 36. It is a half inch longer than the strut. 

Steve Thomas

 Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  wrote: 
Jon,

 

The “Blackfish” looks like what I used last time. I can verify the size today 
while I’m at the boat.  Yes, it’s a bit longer than needed, but it’s easy to 
shorten with a hacksaw.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon Pratt 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 20:09
To: Stu 
Cc: Jon Pratt 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

 

Off the top of your head, do you know the dimensions of the cutlass bearing for 
the 35-3?

1" shaft I know. length and outside diameter is what I'm looking for. I'm 2 1/2 
hours away. Looking to save a trip. 

A friend said he would lend me his strup-pro.

jp

 

On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 8:37 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Erik,

 

I’ve done the cutless bearing on my boat twice.  I’ve removed the rudder both 
times.  It’s not that hard and it went quicker the second time around.  As 
others have said, removing the shaft from the coupling is usually the hardest 
part.  I had a friend that build a jig to push the shaft out.  Worked great.  
The first time I used sockets between the coupler faces to force the shaft out. 
 It was a slow painful process.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 



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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jon,

 

The “Blackfish” looks like what I used last time. I can verify the size today 
while I’m at the boat.  Yes, it’s a bit longer than needed, but it’s easy to 
shorten with a hacksaw.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon Pratt 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 20:09
To: Stu 
Cc: Jon Pratt 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

 

Off the top of your head, do you know the dimensions of the cutlass bearing for 
the 35-3?

1" shaft I know. length and outside diameter is what I'm looking for. I'm 2 1/2 
hours away. Looking to save a trip. 

A friend said he would lend me his strup-pro.

jp

 

On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 8:37 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Erik,

 

I’ve done the cutless bearing on my boat twice.  I’ve removed the rudder both 
times.  It’s not that hard and it went quicker the second time around.  As 
others have said, removing the shaft from the coupling is usually the hardest 
part.  I had a friend that build a jig to push the shaft out.  Worked great.  
The first time I used sockets between the coupler faces to force the shaft out. 
 It was a slow painful process.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Remove silicone

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I was told that nothing would remove silicone but apparently there are 
several products that will do the job.  Now all I need is someone to come to 
North Texas and do it for me.  LOL
Frank Schenk 

On Sunday, April 3, 2016 6:38 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 

 
 Bill Bina
 
 On 4/2/2016 10:15 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
  
 
#yiv147374 #yiv147374 -- _filtered #yiv147374 
{font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;} _filtered #yiv147374 
{panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv147374 
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#yiv147374 p.yiv147374MsoNormal, #yiv147374 
li.yiv147374MsoNormal, #yiv147374 div.yiv147374MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv147374 a:link, 
#yiv147374 span.yiv147374MsoHyperlink 
{color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv147374 a:visited, 
#yiv147374 span.yiv147374MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv147374 
span.yiv147374EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv147374 
.yiv147374MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv147374 
{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv147374 div.yiv147374WordSection1 
{}#yiv147374  3M makes a product that is specifically designed to remove 
silicone. Almost nothing else will do it. Unfortunately I’ve used up my supply 
and can’t recall the product name.    I learned about the stuff when rebuilding 
my A hatches, using Sika 295 as the adhesive. The SIKA won’t properly adhere 
to the hatch frame if there is any silicone residue (which there was, thanks to 
the PO). Perhaps the folks at Sika can tell you the name of the product.       
Rick Brass Washington, NC               From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Franklin Schenk via CnC-List
 Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2016 4:32 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Franklin Schenk mailto:fdsch...@flash.net
 Subject: Stus-List Remove silicone    I am trying to reseal the windows on 
a C 29.  The previous owner used Silicone and I would like to remove it and 
use the butyl tape.  I read that carburetor cleaner works better than acetone.  
I am open to any suggestions.    The spacing on the machine screws also 
appear to be very large.  I was thinking about adding a few more screws at 5 to 
6 inches apart.    Frank 
  
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
 
 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Afloat again

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

It is Awlgrip Flag Blue 5002.

>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2016 10:32:54 -0400
> From: "Richard N. Bush" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Afloat again
> Message-ID: <153d7641851-18f7-7...@webprd-m33.mail.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>  Great looking boat! What is the color? Thanks
>
>
>
>
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio river, mile 596;
>
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
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Re: Stus-List Remove silicone

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Bill Bina

On 4/2/2016 10:15 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


3M makes a product that is specifically designed to remove silicone. 
Almost nothing else will do it. Unfortunately I’ve used up my supply 
and can’t recall the product name.


I learned about the stuff when rebuilding my A hatches, using Sika 
295 as the adhesive. The SIKA won’t properly adhere to the hatch frame 
if there is any silicone residue (which there was, thanks to the PO). 
Perhaps the folks at Sika can tell you the name of the product.


Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Franklin Schenk via CnC-List

*Sent:* Saturday, April 02, 2016 4:32 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Franklin Schenk 
*Subject:* Stus-List Remove silicone

I am trying to reseal the windows on a C 29.  The previous owner 
used Silicone and I would like to remove it and use the butyl tape.  I 
read that carburetor cleaner works better than acetone.  I am open to 
any suggestions.


The spacing on the machine screws also appear to be very large.  I was 
thinking about adding a few more screws at 5 to 6 inches apart.


Frank



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!