Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the kind words.  It was a ton of work, but I'm very happy with 
the results.  I think this stuff is a good product with bang for the buck as 
far as finish goes, but we'll see if it has lasting power after a season or 
two.  For a smooth finish I can't stress prep enough.  Sanding out bad brush 
strokes or drips is key.

Bob - Good point.  Maybe I'll try to put off painting the deck... Although my 
wife is very keen on it and I have some nasty cracking spots on the cabin top.  
Unfortunately this  hull paint makes every other part of the boat look old.

Tom - I didn't remove the swim ladder.  It is on hinges which were a bit of a 
pain to cut in around, but I just raised the ladder and used a bungee cord to 
tie it up to the stanchions so the bottom didn't rest on the paint.  

Honestly I found the fuel vent and through hulls to be more of a pain.  I 
rolled as close to them as I could and then cut in with the foam brush as 
smoothly as possible.  I made sure to always leave horizontal brush strokes 
just like I did everywhere else on the hull so the paint "falls" onto itself.  
Make sense?  

If you get close, you can see a slight difference in brush pattern around the 
through hulls and around the swim ladder hinges if you get very close because 
it's impossible to get a continuous smooth horizontal brush stroke with 
something poking out of the hull.

Ryan 


> On May 26, 2016, at 10:39 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Bow Pulpit C II (Dennis C.)
>   2. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes WithInterlux
>  Brightside/Interlux Prekote (Jake Brodersen)
>   3. Re:  My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>  Brightside/Interlux Prekote (tom)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 19:52:51 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>
> To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow Pulpit C II
> Message-ID:
><canir+yva2g598djsbzktjoqfolys4373kah4vxbhg3irrij...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/pulpits.html
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 6:14 PM, johnr via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> The yard damaged the bow pulpit on my C  What would be a good place
>> to get an estimate on repair or replacement.
>> 
>> John McLaughlin
>> Falcon
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
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> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 21:30:07 -0400
> From: "Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes WithInterlux
>Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> Message-ID: <03a801d1b7b7$4d3e9420$e7bbbc60$@cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ryan,
> 
> 
> 
> An outstanding job.  Excellent gloss.  Thanks for sharing your experience.
> 
> 
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> 
> Jake Brodersen
> 
> C 35 Mk-III ?Midnight Mistress?
> 
> Hampton VA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:46
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
> Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> 
> 
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
> painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside 
> and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb

Stus-List Bow Pulpit

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

Jerome,

Stainless Outfitters is about 2 minutes from where I live.  John is a good
guy and they do great work.  If you need help with anything, let me know.

Paul 
'82 C


From: Jerome Tauber 

Looked into one for my 27-5.  Think rail is about the same.  Here is the
correspondence.  Jerry Hi Jerome: Price of the rail is about the same.
Shipping would be probably around $150 + $25 brokerage. That is in cdn
dollars.
 
Regards,John
- Original Message -
From: Jerome Tauber
To: Stainless Outfitters
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2015 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: Bow Rail C 27 MK V

What is the current price.  How much is shipping to NY Long Island.  Jerome
Tauber

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 24, 2014, at 12:38 PM, "Stainless Outfitters"
 wrote:

> Hi Jerome: A single rail with light brkts installed would be $812.50.
>  
> John
> - Original Message -
> From: Jerome Tauber
> To: Stainless Outfitters
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2014 11:10 AM
> Subject: Re: Bow Rail C 27 MK V
> 
> I believe it is a single rail. Has one horizontal rail and two vertical
supports on each side.  Jerome Tauber.  What is price for single  ?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 24, 2014, at 8:23 AM, "Stainless Outfitters"
 wrote:
> 
>> Hi Jerome: Yes we do have the spec for the 27 MKV . The price would be
$1033.50 for the double rail, welded. The running light plates are $65.00
each installed. Delivery would be about 3 weeks.
>>  
>> Regards,John
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Jerome Tauber
>> To: sa...@stainlessoutfitters.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:52 PM
>> Subject: Bow Rail C 27 MK V
***


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[tom via CnC-List]

Hi Ryan,
Looks great and might motivate me to do the same next season. Can you
comment though about the swim ladder. Was it difficult to work around and
should I think about removing it before painting?
Thanks,
Tom Oryniak
33-1
Carry On

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 11:46 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
> boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
> Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
> during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
> expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
> grief.
>
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
>
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
>
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
>
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
> defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.
>
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
>
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I
> got to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding
> is the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.
>
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and
> Decker orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint
> disappear, then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole
> hull.  I then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333
> brushing liquid
>
> Sanded:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
>
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
> off.
>
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
> were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
> and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
> degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
> mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
>
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
> tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
> coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
> filling imperfections.
>
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
> plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
> "No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.
>
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
>  "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."
>
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went
> home and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of
> elbow grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
>
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
> as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
> completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
> to apply another coat.
>
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
>
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
> finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.
>
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
> confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
> complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
> "tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
> there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
> brush".
>
> This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
> 

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Ryan,

 

An outstanding job.  Excellent gloss.  Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux 
Prekote

 

Hey all,

 

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 

 

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.

 

This was the state of her hull before:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

 

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.

 

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com 
  for a total of $351.90 before shipping.  

 

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

 

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  

 

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid

 

Sanded:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

 

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.

 

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

 

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 

 

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  

 

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."

 

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

  

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

 

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.

 

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

 

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 

 

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".

 

Re: Stus-List Bow Pulpit C II

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/pulpits.html

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 6:14 PM, johnr via CnC-List 
wrote:

> The yard damaged the bow pulpit on my C  What would be a good place
> to get an estimate on repair or replacement.
>
> John McLaughlin
> Falcon
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[wwadjourn]

I kiwi gripped my cockpit sol three years ago.  Too many years of feet of guys 
grinding the winches.  Anyway, go to home depot.  Get pair color c hips.  Match 
your cockpit.  Take white kiwi grip to home depot and they will tint for free.  
Talk nice.  Kiwi grip sends how to instructions and guarantees you will happy.  
Bill Walker
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List Date: Thu, May 
26, 2016 1:50 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Paul E;Cc: Patrick Davin;Subject:Re: 
Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you 
were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use 
then? It looks pretty white to me. 
I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way to go 
to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other nonskid (which 
I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time). 
There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a little 
weird. 
-Patrick1984 C LF38 Seattle, WA
On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM,   wrote:
From: Dreuge 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
Nice work Ryan.  
You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and over 
time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.

I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and Kiwigrip(non-skid). 
 Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy brush “ but in my case 
found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked out better.  Below is a link 
to my experiences painting the deck.
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html
-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[wwadjourn]

Spectacular!Bill Walker cnc 36. Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List Date: Thu, May 26, 
2016 11:46 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Ryan Doyle;Subject:Stus-List My 
Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote
Hey all,
I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 
When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.
This was the state of her hull 
before:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.
I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for a 
total of $351.90 before shipping.  
When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  
I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
Sanded:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.
Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 
Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  
As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."
Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.  I then waited a 
day for the primer on the boat to dry.
The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.
I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 
Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".
This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and 
tip/brush:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of the 
boat at one time - IE the whole transom, or all the 

Stus-List Bow Pulpit C II

[johnr via CnC-List]

The yard damaged the bow pulpit on my C  What would be a good place to 
get an estimate on repair or replacement.


John McLaughlin
Falcon
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Eventually I was able have some white KiwiGrip shipped out of Los Osos, CA by 
Chetco Marine in mid March.  By the time I finished, I ended up using about 
1.25 gallons of KiwiGrip.  It  turned out that the first gallon of KiwiGrip 
from Chetco Marine arrived damaged and opened in the box.  I managed to 
salvaged about 1/2 the gallon.  Chetco Marine sent out a complete replacement 
gallon(nice folks).  I still have a little left for touch ups.  One gallon may 
have been enough, but since I had plenty, focused on putting down a good layer. 
 


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 26, 2016, at 1:49 PM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
> 
> Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you 
> were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use 
> then? It looks pretty white to me. 
> 
> I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way to 
> go to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other nonskid 
> (which I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time). 
> 
> There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a 
> little weird. 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38 
> Seattle, WA
> 
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM,  > wrote:
> From: Dreuge >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: 
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Nice work Ryan.  
> 
> You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and over 
> time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.
> 
> 
> I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and 
> Kiwigrip(non-skid).  Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy 
> brush “ but in my case found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked out 
> better.  Below is a link to my experiences painting the deck.
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Bernard Bauman via CnC-List]

Beautiful!!Thank you for very detailed share.Bernie

 Original message 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
Date: 05/26/2016  11:46 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle  
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote 

Hey all,
I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 
When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.
This was the state of her hull 
before:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.
I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for a 
total of $351.90 before shipping.  
When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  
I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
Sanded:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.
Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 
Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  
As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."
Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.  I then waited a 
day for the primer on the boat to dry.
The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.
I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 
Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".
This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and 
tip/brush:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of the 
boat at one time - IE the 

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

You can have KiwiGrip tinted at a paint store. It is a latex paint.

However they won't guarantee a colour match.

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 1:49 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said
> you were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you
> use then? It looks pretty white to me.
>
> I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way
> to go to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other
> nonskid (which I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time).
>
> There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a
> little weird.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM,  wrote:
>
>> From: Dreuge 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>> Nice work Ryan.
>>
>> You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and
>> over time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.
>>
>>
>> I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and
>> Kiwigrip(non-skid).  Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy
>> brush “ but in my case found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked
>> out better.  Below is a link to my experiences painting the deck.
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C 38 Landfall
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you
were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use
then? It looks pretty white to me.

I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way
to go to match most consistently with the existing gelcoat and other
nonskid (which I'm not going to repaint yet because I don't have time).

There's also a cream color of KiwiGrip but I feel like that might look a
little weird.

-Patrick
1984 C LF38
Seattle, WA

On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:46 AM,  wrote:

> From: Dreuge 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 12:45:45 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Nice work Ryan.
>
> You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and
> over time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.
>
>
> I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and
> Kiwigrip(non-skid).  Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy
> brush “ but in my case found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked
> out better.  Below is a link to my experiences painting the deck.
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Nice work Ryan.  

You may see that you are the only one to notice any imperfections, and over 
time you’ll likely think of these as adding character.


I recently paint my topsides and decks using Brightside and Kiwigrip(non-skid). 
 Funny that I started with a “much-too-expensive Purdy brush “ but in my case 
found that cheap $1 Harbor Freight brushes worked out better.  Below is a link 
to my experiences painting the deck.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/painting-deck.html

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 26, 2016, at 11:46 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 26 May 2016 11:46:02 -0400
> From: Ryan Doyle >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
>   Brightside/Interlux Prekote
> Message-ID:
>    >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
> boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
> Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
> during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
> expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
> grief.
> 
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
> 
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM 
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA 
> 
> 
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
> 
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Wow!  Sounds like a lot of work, Ryan!

The only thing I'd like to add here is that if you paint the decks one time, 
they will need to be painted again in the not-too-distant future...and then, 
again.  If you can avoid painting them the fist time, do so.  It is never 
ending maintenance unless you love painting more than sailing.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 26, 2016, at 11:46 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
> painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside 
> and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this 
> process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but 
> hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some grief. 
> 
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful 
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, 
> and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and 
> fenders.
> 
> This was the state of her hull before:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
> 
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - 
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat 
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was 
> excited to work outside.
> 
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
> more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for 
> a total of $351.90 before shipping.  
> 
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and 
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
> 
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got 
> to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is 
> the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  
> 
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
> orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then 
> I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then 
> wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
> 
> Sanded:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
> 
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right 
> off.
> 
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
> all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I 
> was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was 
> too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the 
> paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
> 
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
> shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
> primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
> imperfections. 
> 
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty 
> of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No 
> biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  
> 
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
> yeah.  Boat paint."
> 
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home 
> and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow 
> grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>   
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
> 
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this 
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
> possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
> away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
> another coat.
> 
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
> 
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
> and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 
> 
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
> confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
> 

Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
grief.

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
excited to work outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got
to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is
the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear,
then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I
then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing
liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
filling imperfections.

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
"No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
 "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home
and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow
grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
to apply another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word
"tip" has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out
there, I think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and
brush".

This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of
the boat at one time - IE the whole transom, or all the starboard topsides,
so it's harder to see the lines between applications.  I found this to be
good advice.

I started at the port stern and rolled on the first finish coat of
Brightside with a foam roller in a 2' section.  I then took my
much-too-expensive Purdy brush and lightly brushed from right to left -
starting at the bottom in the air off the 

Re: Stus-List Spot tracker, InReach, and SpotWalla

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Paul,

Pretty much coming to the same conclusion as you.  I just verified the cost
of Spot's service plans.  Yup, no monthly plan.

Wouldn't mind supporting a local company.  Spot's HQ is only 8 miles from
Touche's home dock in Mandeville.

However, right now I only need tracking for ONE offshore race, maybe 30
hours.  There might be another race later in the year.  I'm reluctant to
pop for $150 annual fee every year just for one or two races.

Of course, as soon as I buy an inReach and set up for monthly fees, they
will drop their monthly fee in favor of an annual fee.

I think I will stick with the iPhone app.  The NOR requires tracking from
when boat leaves dock.  If we sail out of cell phone coverage, too bad.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 9:58 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> One of the reasons I love this list because of the many useful tidbits of
> information.  Case in point, yesterday’s mention of the DeLorme inReach SE
> satellite communicator.  I did a quick look at it features compared to my
> presently owned SPOT Messenger, and I find that the InReach provides all
> and much more including two-way texting and location pings.  Location pings
> are real time location requests from followers via website (which sends out
> request to satellite->device for location info).  Add to that lithium
> rechargeable batteries and MONTHLY subscriptions which SPOT has stopped
> doing.  Also, not that it matters to most, but InReach provides 100% global
> coverage whereas SPOT is limited to near land masses (i.e. don’t expect to
> cross the Atlantic or go to Hawaii with SPOT coverage).
>
> I only wished I knew about the InReach a month ago, as I just renewed my
> SPOT subscription for $160 ($149.99 + $9.99 hidden network service fee).
>
> I would have gladly have purchased a new DeLorme inReach SE ($224 REI free
> ship) and purchased the Rec. plan $35/month.  It would have only cost me an
> extra $99.  For sure I will NOT be renewing with SPOT.
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Spot tracker, InReach, and SpotWalla

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

One of the reasons I love this list because of the many useful tidbits of 
information.  Case in point, yesterday’s mention of the DeLorme inReach SE 
satellite communicator.  I did a quick look at it features compared to my 
presently owned SPOT Messenger, and I find that the InReach provides all and 
much more including two-way texting and location pings.  Location pings are 
real time location requests from followers via website (which sends out request 
to satellite->device for location info).  Add to that lithium rechargeable 
batteries and MONTHLY subscriptions which SPOT has stopped doing.  Also, not 
that it matters to most, but InReach provides 100% global coverage whereas SPOT 
is limited to near land masses (i.e. don’t expect to cross the Atlantic or go 
to Hawaii with SPOT coverage). 

I only wished I knew about the InReach a month ago, as I just renewed my SPOT 
subscription for $160 ($149.99 + $9.99 hidden network service fee).

I would have gladly have purchased a new DeLorme inReach SE ($224 REI free 
ship) and purchased the Rec. plan $35/month.  It would have only cost me an 
extra $99.  For sure I will NOT be renewing with SPOT.


On another note, I have been using the free site SpotWalla.com to manage my 
SPOT tracks.  For those not familiar with SpotWalla.com, SpotWalla is a secure 
personal location manager that supports a wide range of satellite-based 
tracking devices from SPOT and DeLorme as well as any Android and iOS device 
running Bubbler GPS or SWConnect respectively.  One creates a free account on 
SpotWalla and links their device (i.e. a device provide web interface).  When 
one has an active trip, SpotWalla periodically (~ every 10 minutes) polls the 
device interface for new track information and stores the data which then be 
display via many formats.

Here is a link to SPOT data from a recent trip:  
https://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php?id=1089857234acb0b72e


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 25, 2016, at 7:46 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 18:57:13 -0400
> From: "Rick Brass" >
> To: >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Spot tracker
> Message-ID: <01d1b6d8$c76967a0$563c36e0$@earthlink.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The SPOT is also a $112 EPIRB.
> 
> 
> 
> OK. OK. Not really. 
> 
> 
> 
> But if you have to ditch and push the SOS button it sends your information to 
> the same SAR site in Houston that gets your info from an EPIRB. They then 
> call your emergency contact, and then the Coast Guard ? or whatever the 
> closest SAR agency is (if you?re in the Bahamas or Belize for example). Same 
> process as an EPIRB. IIRC the SPOT continues to send out your location for 24 
> or 48 hours.
> 
> 
> 
> The annual fee used to be $99, but goes to $149 next month. The added feature 
> you get for the money is tracking. Old system used to send a message with 
> your location and a Google Map to a pre-established list of email and text 
> addresses when you pushed the check in button. The new Tracking system will 
> send your location at an interval you select to a website. You can give 
> people the URL and they can track your progress. I think you can also have 
> the track automatically sent to your Facebook page, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, if you use Active Captain, the SPOT will also keep your location updated 
> on AC Locations if you turn that on. 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my SPOT gen 1 on closeout at West Marine for like $40 when the Gen 2 
> came out. I?ve used it to track deliveries and a couple of trips to Bermuda, 
> and to let friends know where I was when I spent a couple of months in the 
> Chesapeake a while ago.
> 
> 
> 
> I?m not sure I?ll actually use the Tracking feature, but I?m a happy SPOT 
> user.
> 

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Chris Tirtirau via CnC-List]

@ Josh, thanks for the pics, great stuff.
@Graham, I'm at the RNSYS, and I was asking what steps you ned to take to drop 
the rudder? Once out, we'll scoop out the old foam, replace and close the skin 
cutout, as per the classic procedure. But first I need to know how to drop the 
rudder.
Cheers guys,
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 25, 2016, at 11:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard (Andrew Burton)
>   2. Re:  Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard (Rick Brass)
>   3. Re:  Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard (Andrew Means)
>   4. Re:  Dropping the Rudder (Lee)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 22:21:48 -0400
> From: Andrew Burton 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The first thing I check when an autopilot goes wonky is the rudder angle 
> indicator. It will often come unhooked from its tiller above the quadrant.
> 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On May 25, 2016, at 20:57, Andrew Means via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hey all - 
>> 
>> I?ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After 
>> following the instructions in the manual for holding a course it does 
>> nothing except make many small adjustments to starboard, at which point the 
>> boat just goes in circles. The PO said he thought it had worked at one 
>> point, but never used it. The manual isn?t helpful at all, and these posts 
>> from Cruisers Forum don?t seem to offer up any solutions.
>> 
>> Is there any hope for my unit, or should I be looking for another? I?m 
>> hoping to do more singlehanded sailing later this year and I?d really like 
>> to have an autopilot for longer passages. The WP30 is exactly the level of 
>> functionality I?m looking for - just something that can hold a course and 
>> tack. Sub $500 would be awesome, I assume at that price I?m going to be 
>> looking for a used unit. Any suggestions? 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Andrew Means
>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>> Seattle, WA
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 22:24:10 -0400
> From: "Rick Brass" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard
> Message-ID: <000a01d1b6f5$b0555480$10fffd80$@earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I have an even older Navico WP5000 on my 38, and had a similar problem a 
> couple of years ago. It would track straight but drift to port ? basically 
> the wheel would turn when the pilot was adjusting to port but not when the 
> adjustment was to starboard. Turned out that the belt was worn and slipping 
> in one direction. A new belt and increasing the tension on the belt fixed my 
> problem. YMMV.
> 
> 
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
> Means via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 8:58 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Means 
> Subject: Stus-List Simrad WP30 just turns to starboard
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all - 
> 
> 
> 
> I?ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After 
> following the instructions in  
> 
>  the manual for holding a course it does nothing except make many small 
> adjustments to starboard, at which point the boat just goes in circles. The 
> PO said he thought it had worked at one point, but never used it. The manual 
> isn?t helpful at all, and these 
> 

Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Josh,   What did you use for the new core/foam?

Mike 
Virginia LEE 93295
Cc 36 CB

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On May 25, 2016, at 09:57, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Pics of the job when I had mine done.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On May 25, 2016 8:58 AM, "Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was 
>> wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What 
>> are the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?
>> 
>> Chris
>> C 37 Northern Light
>> Halifax
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> > On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> >cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> >
>> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> >cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> >
>> > You can reach the person managing the list at
>> >cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> >
>> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> >
>> >
>> > Today's Topics:
>> >
>> >   1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>> >   2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
>> >   3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
>> >   4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>> >   5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
>> >   6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> > Message: 1
>> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
>> > From: Sam Wheeler 
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
>> > Message-ID:
>> >