Re: Stus-List C Nutshell dinghy

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Kimon, 
C designed a few sailing dinghies, but the Nutshell Dinghy is a non C wood 
lapstrake 10 ft pram design. 
See: 
https://www.google.com/search?q=Nutshell+dinghy=lnms=isch=X=0ahUKEwif44b12PvMAhUDNSYKHYtjCLYQ_AUIBygB=1354=613
 


C designed the Harpoon 4.6, 5.2 and 6.2 built by Boston Whaler. 
https://www.google.com/search?q=harpoon+dinghy=1354=613=lnms=isch=X=0ahUKEwiDtNDd2PvMAhVKKyYKHSp6CEAQ_AUIByg
 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Kimon Tzaratzouris via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Kimon Tzaratzouris"  
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 2:14:34 PM 
Subject: Stus-List C Nutshell dinghy 

Hello, 
I bought a sailboat dinghy to sail in the small lakes around us. It is a 13' 
C Yachts serial # NS12771N. I was told the model is "Nutshell". I cannot find 
any information on it and was wondering if anyone has heard or knows anything 
about it. It is light (about 200 lbs. I think) and a very fast little sailboat. 
Any info would be appreciated, 
Thanks, Kimon 

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Re: Stus-List Self-Tailing Winches

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

Barient 10 are about 7.5:1 or so I think. Andersen 12st is a bit more powerful, 
9.5:1 and a little bigger in size, but not by much. I had those wincher things 
on my C 24 and they worked ok. 
Cheers,
Paul. 

Date: Fri, 27 May 2016 22:45:19 +
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Self-Tailing Winches
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: mambome...@yahoo.com

Speaking of winch replacement, I have not been able to find anything comparable 
in size to my Barient #10s in ST.  Any of you winchers have a suggestion? Alex 
Wolfe
ShakaC 24Miami, FL

   
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 27 May 2016 09:44:11 -0700
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for
35 MkII
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well
enough and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too
feeble.
I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 23 May 2016 at 15:41, Paul Baker via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Don't mess around. Get some Andersen all stainless. They will outlast you
> and the boat. They are the single best upgrade I have done on my boat,
> fabulous winches.
> Cheers,
> Paul.
>
> Orange Crush
> 27mk2
> Sidney, BC
>
> > Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 14:23:57 -0400
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk
> II
> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > CC: swe...@att.net
>
> >
> > I love the looks of my beautiful Stainless Barient 28's on my C
> 35MkII, but am facing the reality that as I age, self tailing winches are
> becoming more of a necessity rather than a luxury... What have other owners
> found as the best replacement? I want to stay with stainless and fitting
> the existing hole pattern would be a plus... Equal or slightly increased
> power ratio would also be important. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> >
> > Greg
> > S.V. Piper
> > C 35 MkII
> > Lk. Saint Clair
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> >


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Self-Tailing Winches

[Alex Wolfe via CnC-List]

Speaking of winch replacement, I have not been able to find anything comparable 
in size to my Barient #10s in ST.  Any of you winchers have a suggestion? Alex 
Wolfe
ShakaC 24Miami, FL

  
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 27 May 2016 09:44:11 -0700
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for
    35 Mk    II
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well
enough and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too
feeble.
I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 23 May 2016 at 15:41, Paul Baker via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Don't mess around. Get some Andersen all stainless. They will outlast you
> and the boat. They are the single best upgrade I have done on my boat,
> fabulous winches.
> Cheers,
> Paul.
>
> Orange Crush
> 27mk2
> Sidney, BC
>
> > Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 14:23:57 -0400
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk
> II
> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > CC: swe...@att.net
>
> >
> > I love the looks of my beautiful Stainless Barient 28's on my C
> 35MkII, but am facing the reality that as I age, self tailing winches are
> becoming more of a necessity rather than a luxury... What have other owners
> found as the best replacement? I want to stay with stainless and fitting
> the existing hole pattern would be a plus... Equal or slightly increased
> power ratio would also be important. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> >
> > Greg
> > S.V. Piper
> > C 35 MkII
> > Lk. Saint Clair
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> >

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Re: Stus-List winches were too powerful?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

A few years back, I managed a friend's Hylas 54 with Antal electric primary
winches (54s maybe?).  Once when the owner was on board, he didn't put
enough wraps on the winch and fed the jib sheet into the jaws of the self
tailer and pushed the button.  Managed to bend the line stripper down about
1" (Chrome over bronze I suspect) and until we replaced the stripper and
rebuilt the winch, it wouldn't tail properly, especially with smaller line.

 Large Electric winches can harness some insane leverage and I like my
fingers way too much to ever put them on a boat that I own..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic 
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 4:04 PM
To: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Cc: Lee Youngblood 
Subject: Stus-List winches were too powerful?

To powerful - yea well we did break one of the teeth off on a big triple
speed winch on the Frers 41.  Not sure if it was a Lewmar or what, but the
next week it was gone - to expensive to replace, the secondary winches moved
up, and we'd just have to move the spinnaker to the coach house winch like
on a smaller boat. 


On May 27, 2016, at 9:44 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well
enough and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too
feeble. 
> I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List winches were too powerful?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

To powerful - yea well we did break one of the teeth off on a big triple speed 
winch on the Frers 41.  Not sure if it was a Lewmar or what, but the next week 
it was gone - to expensive to replace, the secondary winches moved up, and we’d 
just have to move the spinnaker to the coach house winch like on a smaller 
boat. 


On May 27, 2016, at 9:44 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well enough 
> and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too feeble. 
> I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 


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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing, Ryan.  Your boat looks incredible.  If you get the urge
to paint another one, just let me know...

Sam
35-3
SF

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 5:48 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ryan
>
>
>
> The boat looks really nice.  Congratulations on a job well done
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> HAlifax
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2016 12:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ryan Doyle
> *Subject:* Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux
> Brightside/Interlux Prekote
>
>
>
> Hey all,
>
>
>
> I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time
> boat painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux
> Brightside and Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes
> during this process.  I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my
> expense, but hopefully this post will save other first-time painters some
> grief.
>
>
>
> When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.
> The hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful
> color, but I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush
> marks, and it had been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines
> and fenders.
>
>
>
> This was the state of her hull before:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
>
>
>
> I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat -
> crawling around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat
> grime.  So when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was
> excited to work outside.
>
>
>
> I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much...
> but more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from
> defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.
>
>
>
> When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and
> the line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.
>
>
>
> Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I
> got to work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding
> is the key to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.
>
>
>
> I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and
> Decker orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint
> disappear, then I moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole
> hull.  I then wiped down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333
> brushing liquid
>
>
>
> Sanded:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
>
>
>
> I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right
> off.
>
>
>
> Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of
> Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids
> were all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint
> and I was also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60
> degrees was too cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and
> mixed up the paint as best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
>
>
>
> Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old
> tee shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one
> coat of primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job
> filling imperfections.
>
>
>
> Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have
> plenty of experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought,
> "No biggie.  I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.
>
>
>
> As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.
>  "Oh yeah.  Boat paint."
>
>
>
> Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went
> home and used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of
> elbow grease, this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.
>
>
>
> I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.
>
>
>
> The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this
> post.  I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth
> as possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer
> completely away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going
> to apply another coat.
>
>
>
> I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and
> rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
>
>
>
> The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth
> finish, and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.
>
>
>
> Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been
> confused 

Re: Stus-List Bow Pulpit

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Thanks but I opted to have the old one straightened.  It looks terrible and I 
should have gotten the new one.  Jerry.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 26, 2016, at 10:56 PM, Paul Hood via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Jerome,
> 
> Stainless Outfitters is about 2 minutes from where I live.  John is a good
> guy and they do great work.  If you need help with anything, let me know.
> 
> Paul 
> '82 C
> 
> 
> From: Jerome Tauber 
> 
> Looked into one for my 27-5.  Think rail is about the same.  Here is the
> correspondence.  Jerry Hi Jerome: Price of the rail is about the same.
> Shipping would be probably around $150 + $25 brokerage. That is in cdn
> dollars.
> 
> Regards,John
> - Original Message -
> From: Jerome Tauber
> To: Stainless Outfitters
> Sent: Monday, May 25, 2015 2:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Bow Rail C 27 MK V
> 
> What is the current price.  How much is shipping to NY Long Island.  Jerome
> Tauber
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 24, 2014, at 12:38 PM, "Stainless Outfitters"
>  wrote:
> 
>> Hi Jerome: A single rail with light brkts installed would be $812.50.
>> 
>> John
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Jerome Tauber
>> To: Stainless Outfitters
>> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2014 11:10 AM
>> Subject: Re: Bow Rail C 27 MK V
>> 
>> I believe it is a single rail. Has one horizontal rail and two vertical
> supports on each side.  Jerome Tauber.  What is price for single  ?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 24, 2014, at 8:23 AM, "Stainless Outfitters"
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi Jerome: Yes we do have the spec for the 27 MKV . The price would be
> $1033.50 for the double rail, welded. The running light plates are $65.00
> each installed. Delivery would be about 3 weeks.
>>> 
>>> Regards,John
>>> - Original Message -
>>> From: Jerome Tauber
>>> To: sa...@stainlessoutfitters.com
>>> Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 7:52 PM
>>> Subject: Bow Rail C 27 MK V
> ***
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk II

[wwadjourn]

Ditto ST 48s on my 36, love them.  
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
-- Original message--From: Jim Watts via CnC-List Date: Fri, May 27, 
2016 12:45 PMTo: 1 CnC List;Cc: Jim Watts;Subject:Re: Stus-List Best self 
tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk II
I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well enough 
and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too feeble. 
I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 23 May 2016 at 15:41, Paul Baker via CnC-List  wrote:
Don't mess around. Get some Andersen all stainless. They will outlast you and 
the boat. They are the single best upgrade I have done on my boat, fabulous 
winches. 
Cheers,
Paul. 

Orange Crush
27mk2
Sidney, BC

> Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 14:23:57 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk II
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: swe...@att.net
> 
> I love the looks of my beautiful Stainless Barient 28's on my C 35MkII, but 
> am facing the reality that as I age, self tailing winches are becoming more 
> of a necessity rather than a luxury... What have other owners found as the 
> best replacement? I want to stay with stainless and fitting the existing hole 
> pattern would be a plus... Equal or slightly increased power ratio would also 
> be important. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 
> 
> Greg
> S.V. Piper
> C 35 MkII
> Lk. Saint Clair
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
   
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

If you can get no satisfaction.
Then make your own adaptor... a copper link, 
similar to buss bar material, with two holes: 
5/16 and 3/8. The common post adaptor gets bolted 
to the link at the 3/8" hole and the link gets 
bolted to the battery at the 5/16" hole.


Detail devils: make sure of correct hole distance 
apart to ensure clearance and avoid 
interferences. I.E.: do the drilling locally if possible.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




At 06:38 AM 25/05/2016, you wrote:
Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed 
locally and after emailing the business twice to 
ensure it was in stock before making the drive 
(and I was assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. 
He had a pair of used ones on hand and gave them 
to me to make up for the error. I asked to make 
sure they fit the trojans and so he screwed them 
onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.Â


When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I 
discovered that one of them was stripped. I was 
FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter 
while I stood and watched so he KNEW that one 
was stripped. Why he went ahead and wasted my 
time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.Â


I had to summarize the engine one way or the 
other so I wrapped some tin foil around the stud 
to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. 
I'm willing to use some conductive epoxy at this 
point to make it a permanent thing but I would 
rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use 
for such a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.


Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. 
All the online places I could find are in the 
states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which 
in and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but 
they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 20 USD 
to ship and another *surprise* amount at the 
door. I can't stomach that, on principle if 
nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.


Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two 
stores. Napa doesn't have it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.


Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much 
appreciated. Crimping new battery cables isn't 
out of the question but I don't have the tool 
and removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.


Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

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This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you like what we do, please 
help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk II

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well
enough and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too
feeble.
I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 23 May 2016 at 15:41, Paul Baker via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Don't mess around. Get some Andersen all stainless. They will outlast you
> and the boat. They are the single best upgrade I have done on my boat,
> fabulous winches.
> Cheers,
> Paul.
>
> Orange Crush
> 27mk2
> Sidney, BC
>
> > Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 14:23:57 -0400
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Best self tailing primary winch replacement for 35 Mk
> II
> > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > CC: swe...@att.net
>
> >
> > I love the looks of my beautiful Stainless Barient 28's on my C
> 35MkII, but am facing the reality that as I age, self tailing winches are
> becoming more of a necessity rather than a luxury... What have other owners
> found as the best replacement? I want to stay with stainless and fitting
> the existing hole pattern would be a plus... Equal or slightly increased
> power ratio would also be important. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> >
> > Greg
> > S.V. Piper
> > C 35 MkII
> > Lk. Saint Clair
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Spot tracker

[Peter Delean via CnC-List]

>
> There has been much discussion on the motorcycle group forums about the
> latest SPOT 3.


Long distance motorcyclists use the SPOT system almost exclusively.

SPOT 1 and SPOT 2 worked well out of the box.

SPOT 3 has given people fits. Occasionally tracking, occasionally not.

Bottom line there is a firmware update that most people need to do ASAP,
and every time you change your findmespot account details.

They recommend that after turning it on, you send a message to get it to
seek satellites. It does not automatically link up to a satellite when you
turn it on and hit the "tracking" button. On longer trips, you need to do
that each day apparently.

I am a happy SPOT 2 user. No issues. It is linked to SPOTWALLA.COM so my
trips are recorded forever, not just the 2 weeks findmespot allows.

Peter Delean
Drifter II, C 30 Mk 1
Penetanguishene, ON
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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Ryan

The boat looks really nice.  Congratulations on a job well done

Mike
Persistence
HAlifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 12:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux 
Prekote

Hey all,

I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief.

When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.

This was the state of her hull before:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA

I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.

I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from 
defender.com for a total of $351.90 before shipping.

When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.

I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid

Sanded:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM

I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.

Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.

Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections.

Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.

As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."

Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.

I then waited a day for the primer on the boat to dry.

The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.

I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.

The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag.

Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".

This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and tip/brush:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo

The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a 

Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Great job and nice write up on your experiences.  Thanks for sharing



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 9:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote



Ryan,



An outstanding job.  Excellent gloss.  Thanks for sharing your experience.



Jake



Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux 
Prekote



Hey all,



I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief.



When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.



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