Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Sam

What's the name of your 35-3?  I race my 29-1 out of Tiburon YC and I
always pay attention to C's. I do the big races, the Great Vallejo Race,
the YRA 2nd half opener and the Season closer as well as the Jazz Cup so
encounters with container ships and tankers are common.

I went to a presentation at Oakland YC by one of the pilots who told us
there are sailor friendly and sailor unfriendly pilots. He mentioned they
only use channel 13 and channel 14 (Vessel Traffic) so do as you were
advised, call on 13.

Sometimes I feel really sorry for them. Especially in races such as the 3
Bridge Fiasco and the Vallejo Race. But most give us room as long as they
can see what we are doing

Hope to see you out there.

Ian Matthew
C 29-1. "Siento el Viento"
San Francisco Bay

BTW. The boat that was dismasted by the tanker in the Solent was skippered
by an ex Royal Navy Captain!

On Thursday, June 9, 2016, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I had an exciting freighter experience this past weekend.
>
> I went for a leisurely sunset sail with a couple of friends on Saturday
> from San Francisco (where I had parked the boat for a few days) across the
> bay to Emeryville (where I am permanently berthed).  We were probably about
> a half-mile south of the Bay Bridge when a cargo ship came under the bridge
> and turned to port, east towards Oakland - a course that would cross well
> ahead of us without ever getting close.
>
> About a minute after making the turn east, the freighter made a sudden
> starboard turn to the west, which put it on course straight for us.  The
> wind was light and we weren't moving very fast, but our course was
> perpendicular to the ship's, and I figured we would probably pass ahead of
> it at this point.  But it continues to bear down on us - those things
> always move faster than I expect - and blows a few horn blasts, so we
> scramble to fire up the engine and open up the throttle.
>
> With the engine going strong, we're in good shape to get out of the way.
> All clear, we start to relax and laugh about the situation.  Then the cargo
> ship alters course again.  At first I think I'm imagining it, but it's
> turning steadily to port, apparently tracking us to stay aimed straight at
> my boat, and continues to close the distance.
>
> So I hand off the wheel and run for the radio.  Hail "unidentified cargo
> vessel" (hard to read a name when it's coming straight at you) on channel
> 16, and the Coast Guard helpfully tells me that ships only monitor 13.  Try
> again on the right channel.
>
> The pilot responds right away.  It turns out he's just turning in a circle
> to drop anchor.  No danger, he sees us, and we're fine on our course.  We
> shut the engine down and had a nice sail the rest of the way.  (Here's a
> video  of the post-freighter portion of the
> trip.)
>
> Takeaways:
> (1)  Count the horns.  My guess in retrospect is that he blew three to
> indicate that he was in reverse and starting to slow down, not five for
> "get out of the way if you don't want to be a smudge on my hull," which is
> what I took it as.
>
> (2)  I need get myself a handheld radio that I can use from the helm.
>
> Sam
> 35-3
> SF
>
> On Thu, Jun 9, 2016 at 1:46 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>>  Here's the link to the video of the idiotic sailor who tried to cross in
>> front of a freighter during Cowes Week in 2011. The skipper was fined GBP
>> 3000!
>> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_tUoUxzt9sI
>>
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>>
>> On Jun 9, 2016, at 16:01, robert via CnC-List > > wrote:
>>
>> Tanzer 26 actually broadsided a container ship
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>

-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Danforth Anchor

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Starting to gain interest in this new group for mejust brought a c 34/36r 
up to southeast Alaska.  

We do more anchoring up her on ace segments.  Anybody' modify and build back in 
an anchor locker?

Sent from my iPad

James Bibb
NorthWind Architects LLC
126 Seward St. Street
Juneau, Alaska. 99801

(907) 321-4265 cell
(907) 586-6150 ext 5 wk 

> On Jun 11, 2016, at 4:26 PM, Gary Kolc via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Well I returned the cut down anchor back and found another one at a 
> consignment store in Newport. This was a HD 20 Danforth with the stickers 
> still on it never been used $100. I do not have a locker we hang it from the 
> bow pulpit. I do not mind that the stock is full size.  We keep the bottom 
> conditions in mind when anchoring and have never had a problem with a 
> Danforth. I am aware of its limitations but as I have no windless I cannot 
> get anything real heavy.
> 
> Gary.."Liberty"
> 
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Tablet
> 
>> On Jun 11, 2016 4:07 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Danforths are hampered by any growth on the bottom since it interferes with 
>> the anchor's initial set. They are also hampered by shells and rocks that 
>> can get jammed in the flukes and prevent a reset in the event of wind or 
>> tide shift. 
>> Those are real Danforths. Fake Danforths are generally pretty useless 
>> altogether since they frequently do not have the right geometry and are 
>> welded together by guesswork. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>>> On 11 June 2016 at 10:57, John Pennie via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Len:
>>> 
>>> A little surprised by the comment.  What limitations are you referring to? 
>>> Danforth may not be the sexiest anchor but they are versatile.  Biggest 
>>> obstacle to them is grass I've found.
>>> 
>>> John
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
 On Jun 11, 2016, at 1:12 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Gary, You probably already know this but the Danforth has some pretty 
 serious limitations. I think you would be OK holding your dinghy with a 20 
 pounder, if it's not windy!
 Sand bottom with no weeds, chain and a long rode. I learned the hard way 
 and I couldn't sleep on the hook until I bought a better anchor (on a 
 previous boat). Just be careful relying on it. I hope it's a second or 
 third anchor.
 Len
 1989 37+
 Crazy Legs
 Midland On
 
 Sent from my mobile device.
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

If able, measure the old line you cut off to get a rough idea of how much
line to buy. Total up the pieces. Then raise the sail with no new line
around the drum. Roll up the sail by hand again with no line attached to
the drum. Now attach the new line to the drum with the sail fully furled.
Add 2 rolls by hand. Now unfurl the sail as usual and this will wind the
new line on the drum. Cut the tail if necessary to the desired length.

Ed
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Saturday, June 11, 2016, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having
> to drop the headsail and cut it all out.
>
> I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather
> permitting.
>
> So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around
> the drum before putting the sail back on?
>
> I'm running with a 135% headsail, but want to have enough on there to
> accommodate a 150, if I ever make a change.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com 
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

Fntastic! Thanks. I bought 80-feet of line and will wrap 27-28 feet or so 
around the drum. That should do it. 

You da man. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Jun 11, 2016, at 8:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Mine is nearly a 1:1 ratio and I usually keep a minimum of 3 or 4 wraps on the 
drum (~2ft).  Then the add the length of the distance from the drum to the 
desired termination (~35ft).  Then add the length of the foot.  A 150% will be 
about 24 ft.  So 65ft should be sufficient.  Remember that you have to have 
enough space on the drum for all your line.  Too large of a diameter rope and 
too many wraps are going to jam up in the drum.

There is a good amount of consideration given to line stretch when talking 
about halyards.  I had never considered it with my furling line until the other 
day when I was sailing furled in heavy air.  The furling line would stretch and 
during every gust the furler would unroll about a half turn.  As the gust 
passed the drum would roll it back up.  This was obviously negatively impacting 
the headsail trim.  I will definitely be moving to a low stretch alternative.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

> On Jun 11, 2016 8:30 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having to 
> drop the headsail and cut it all out. 
> 
> I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather permitting. 
> 
> So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around 
> the drum before putting the sail back on? 
> 
> I'm running with a 135% headsail, but want to have enough on there to 
> accommodate a 150, if I ever make a change. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List solar windex light

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Re: Windex light. I bought the Edison style LED from marinebeam after asking if 
it would fit. I was concerned it was too tall for the dome on the Davis Windex 
light fixture.  I emailed them and they said it should work.

When it arrived it was indeed too tall. I emailed marinebeam. They sent me a 
replacement which looked like they'd simply squashed it with a hot knife. It 
worked. They reacted. Good vendor. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 11, 2016, at 7:19 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sorry nob 
> 
>> On Friday, June 10, 2016, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Joel –
>> 
>> Any updates on this?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 6:50 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Joel Aronson
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring windex light to running lights [C 34]
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  Local LED vendor is supposed to be making me a solar powered LED windex 
>> light with. Photocell.  We'll see if he does.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Make sure the line leads out of the drum 90 degrees to the forestay. If yours 
doesn't move the first block up or down until it does. 

Second, it's a lot easier to wrap the sheets around the furled sail to get the 
correct number of wraps. 

Buy extra line. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 11, 2016, at 7:29 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having to 
> drop the headsail and cut it all out. 
> 
> I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather permitting. 
> 
> So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around 
> the drum before putting the sail back on? 
> 
> I'm running with a 135% headsail, but want to have enough on there to 
> accommodate a 150, if I ever make a change. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Mine is nearly a 1:1 ratio and I usually keep a minimum of 3 or 4 wraps on
the drum (~2ft).  Then the add the length of the distance from the drum to
the desired termination (~35ft).  Then add the length of the foot.  A 150%
will be about 24 ft.  So 65ft should be sufficient.  Remember that you have
to have enough space on the drum for all your line.  Too large of a
diameter rope and too many wraps are going to jam up in the drum.

There is a good amount of consideration given to line stretch when talking
about halyards.  I had never considered it with my furling line until the
other day when I was sailing furled in heavy air.  The furling line would
stretch and during every gust the furler would unroll about a half turn.
As the gust passed the drum would roll it back up.  This was obviously
negatively impacting the headsail trim.  I will definitely be moving to a
low stretch alternative.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 11, 2016 8:30 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having
> to drop the headsail and cut it all out.
>
> I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather
> permitting.
>
> So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around
> the drum before putting the sail back on?
>
> I'm running with a 135% headsail, but want to have enough on there to
> accommodate a 150, if I ever make a change.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com 
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 6
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Edd..

My simple thinking is that you have to roll up at least the length of the
foot of the 150.  So why not measure the sail and then mark the line and
wind that much onto the drum.  When you put the sail back on, puling on the
line should wind it up correctly

 

I probably would add a foot or two just in case

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC...77

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2016 8:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

 

Listers,

 

My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having
to drop the headsail and cut it all out. 

 

I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather permitting.


 

So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around
the drum before putting the sail back on? 

 

I'm running with a 135% headsail, but want to have enough on there to
accommodate a 150, if I ever make a change. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

C 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

My roller furling line got ultra-tangled in the drum and I ended up having to 
drop the headsail and cut it all out. 

I bought some new line and am going to install tomorrow, weather permitting. 

So here's the question. How many feet of line should I have wrapped around the 
drum before putting the sail back on? 

I'm running with a 135% headsail, but want to have enough on there to 
accommodate a 150, if I ever make a change. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Danforth Anchor

[Gary Kolc via CnC-List]

Well I returned the cut down anchor back and found another one at a consignment 
store in Newport. This was a HD 20 Danforth with the stickers still on it never 
been used $100. I do not have a locker we hang it from the bow pulpit. I do not 
mind that the stock is full size.  We keep the bottom conditions in mind when 
anchoring and have never had a problem with a Danforth. I am aware of its 
limitations but as I have no windless I cannot get anything real heavy.

Gary.."Liberty"

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Tablet

On Jun 11, 2016 4:07 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> Danforths are hampered by any growth on the bottom since it interferes with 
> the anchor's initial set. They are also hampered by shells and rocks that can 
> get jammed in the flukes and prevent a reset in the event of wind or tide 
> shift. 
> Those are real Danforths. Fake Danforths are generally pretty useless 
> altogether since they frequently do not have the right geometry and are 
> welded together by guesswork. 
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 11 June 2016 at 10:57, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>>
>> Len:
>>
>> A little surprised by the comment.  What limitations are you referring to? 
>> Danforth may not be the sexiest anchor but they are versatile.  Biggest 
>> obstacle to them is grass I've found.
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> > On Jun 11, 2016, at 1:12 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > Gary, You probably already know this but the Danforth has some pretty 
>> > serious limitations. I think you would be OK holding your dinghy with a 20 
>> > pounder, if it's not windy!
>> > Sand bottom with no weeds, chain and a long rode. I learned the hard way 
>> > and I couldn't sleep on the hook until I bought a better anchor (on a 
>> > previous boat). Just be careful relying on it. I hope it's a second or 
>> > third anchor.
>> > Len
>> > 1989 37+
>> > Crazy Legs
>> > Midland On
>> >
>> > Sent from my mobile device.
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> >
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List solar windex light

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Sorry nob

On Friday, June 10, 2016, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Joel –
>
> Any updates on this?
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On
> Behalf Of *Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, May 20, 2016 6:50 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wiring windex light to running lights [C 34]
>
>
>
>  Local LED vendor is supposed to be making me a solar powered LED windex
> light with. Photocell.  We'll see if he does.
>
>
>
> Joel
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Nagging engine overheat solved

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On the trip from Louisiana to Pensacola few weeks ago I was seeing 180-200F at 
cruise rpm. Normal is 160F.  

Water out back looked normal. Usually it's a loose or worn belt. If I can turn 
the pump pulley by hand then it's the problem. This, in fact was the case.  The 
pulley turned and I tightened the belt. Still overheated but not as much. 

Noticed the belt was down in the sheave.  That is, the belt was below the tops 
of the sheave and there was black residue observed. Signs that belt needed to 
be replaced. Did so. 

Also checked raw water impeller. No issue there. 

Still overheating slightly. Pulled the thermostat and replaced it with one that 
I had tested that opened at 160F.  Still overheating. 

Pulled end caps from exchanger.  Saw a couple small pieces of zinc in one pass. 
Not bad. (Search "pbase heat exchanger" to see an exchanger with a really bad 
zinc issue.)  Flushed all passes with blasts of dock water.  Zinc pieces gone. 

Ran it 3+ hours today around Pensacola Bay and out into the Gulf,  Temp stayed 
at 160F.  

Shot gooseneck several times with IR thermometer. Agreed with temp gauge within 
2F each time. About 162-164F. 

Sometimes ya just gotta chase all the rabbits. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Danforth Anchor

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Danforths are hampered by any growth on the bottom since it interferes with
the anchor's initial set. They are also hampered by shells and rocks that
can get jammed in the flukes and prevent a reset in the event of wind or
tide shift.
Those are real Danforths. Fake Danforths are generally pretty useless
altogether since they frequently do not have the right geometry and are
welded together by guesswork.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 June 2016 at 10:57, John Pennie via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Len:
>
> A little surprised by the comment.  What limitations are you referring to?
> Danforth may not be the sexiest anchor but they are versatile.  Biggest
> obstacle to them is grass I've found.
>
> John
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jun 11, 2016, at 1:12 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Gary, You probably already know this but the Danforth has some pretty
> serious limitations. I think you would be OK holding your dinghy with a 20
> pounder, if it's not windy!
> > Sand bottom with no weeds, chain and a long rode. I learned the hard way
> and I couldn't sleep on the hook until I bought a better anchor (on a
> previous boat). Just be careful relying on it. I hope it's a second or
> third anchor.
> > Len
> > 1989 37+
> > Crazy Legs
> > Midland On
> >
> > Sent from my mobile device.
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Salon Lighting

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Francois

I redid all of the overhead fluorescents in Alera with a pair of 12" Lunasea 
light bars in each location.  I just took out the old fixture and attached the 
light bar to the existing wiring and used a good two sided tape to mount them.  
Here's the link to the lights and the cross over connector needed to use two.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/lunasea-lighting-high-output-led-surface-mount-light-bars

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/lunasea-lighting-6-inch-mini-usb-dc-light-bar-extension-cord-llb-32ah-01-00

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Jun 11, 2016, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2016 13:34:19 -0400
> From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List  Salon Lighting
> Message-ID:
>
> 
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> +1 on the Marinebeam stuff.  Top notch and reasonable prices. So far I 
> have replaced almost everything except for the overhead fluorescents 
> (Those are next) and experimented with a couple LED vendors.. 
> 
> Marinebeam is really good, their stuff is great and if you don't overkill 
> it on candle power.. Their "Warm" LED's do a pretty convincing attempt at 
> looking close to a conventional incandescent light  / not looking like a 
> 60's movie interrogation room light.. Their really bright "tower" bulbs 
> are REALLY bright. The one I had bought as a test ended-up as nav table 
> lighting for "in port" use. 
> 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Danforth Anchor

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Len:

A little surprised by the comment.  What limitations are you referring to? 
Danforth may not be the sexiest anchor but they are versatile.  Biggest 
obstacle to them is grass I've found.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 11, 2016, at 1:12 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Gary, You probably already know this but the Danforth has some pretty serious 
> limitations. I think you would be OK holding your dinghy with a 20 pounder, 
> if it's not windy! 
> Sand bottom with no weeds, chain and a long rode. I learned the hard way and 
> I couldn't sleep on the hook until I bought a better anchor (on a previous 
> boat). Just be careful relying on it. I hope it's a second or third anchor. 
> Len 
> 1989 37+
> Crazy Legs
> Midland On
> 
> Sent from my mobile device.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

It reduces the arcing in the switch by reducing the amperage for a small
solenoid compared to the starter. Adds life to the switch. You can have
larger gauge wire switched at the solenoid to the starter and modest size
to the switch.

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto,  Ontario
On Jun 11, 2016 8:37 AM, "Dave via CnC-List"  wrote:

Josh,

What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting
circuit?

Dave J
Saltaire
C 35Mk3
Bristol, RI
--
*From: *"Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
*To: *"C List" 
*Cc: *"Josh Muckley" 
*Sent: *Monday, June 6, 2016 8:20:33 AM

*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar.  Its
pretty generic, maybe it will help.

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need
> to get done.
>
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from
> turning the key.
>
>
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to
> the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
>
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
>
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to
> clean contact but no effect.
>
>
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
>
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
>
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
>
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what
> I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as
> well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
>
>
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure
> out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
>
>
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
>
> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition
> key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed
>
> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to
> spin the starter/solenoid directly?
>
>
> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
>
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
>
> Mark
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Danforth Anchor

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Gary, You probably already know this but the Danforth has some pretty serious 
limitations. I think you would be OK holding your dinghy with a 20 pounder, if 
it's not windy! 
Sand bottom with no weeds, chain and a long rode. I learned the hard way and I 
couldn't sleep on the hook until I bought a better anchor (on a previous boat). 
Just be careful relying on it. I hope it's a second or third anchor. 
Len 
1989 37+
Crazy Legs
Midland On

Sent from my mobile device.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Danforth Anchor mod

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Gary, 
FWIW, I keep a smaller danforth anchor in my inflatable air deck dinghy. I cut 
that bar mayself across the head of the anchor and added clear reinforced hose 
over the bar ends. The hose extends past the ends to prevent the bar from 
holing the dinghy. I believe the bar simply helps to orient the blades to dig 
in and the blades do all the holding. Works fine for me. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Dave via CnC-List]

Josh, 

What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting circuit? 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35Mk3 
Bristol, RI 
- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "C List"  
Cc: "Josh Muckley"  
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 8:20:33 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem 



I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar. Its pretty 
generic, maybe it will help. 

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU 


Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 



Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to get 
done. 

Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was running 
smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from turning the 
key. 


Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the 
radio when trying to turn over the engine. 

I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few hours 
- wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. That day I 
easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the engine running 
for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). 

That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean 
contact but no effect. 


I figure there are 3 possibilities 

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over 

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise or 
power dip indicating that something was seized 

3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I 
presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. 
Nothing obviously disconnected 


I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out 
what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! 


Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a 
voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it 
suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? 

I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - 
maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed 

Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin the 
starter/solenoid directly? 


The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP 


Thanks in advance for the advice, 

Mark 

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. 
- George Santayana 


___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 




___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while sailing?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

 I have a 3 blade Bruntons Autoprop...I can feel it spin with the
transmission in reverse but it does spin when in forward so I have
sailed the last 12 years with the transmission of my Universal M4-30
in forward...no problems yet...I think my circumstance is caused by
the way the autoprop blades work position themselves for forward
versus reverse drive

http://ab-marine.com/feathering/auto-prop/
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 12:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
 wrote:
> My Universal diesel manual for Hurth HBW tranny says freewheeling won't hurt
> the tranny.  It is moot on whether to lock it.
>
> From marinedieseldirect.com for Hurth trannies:  "DO NOT LEAVE GEAR IN
> FORWARD WHEN SAILING. GEAR MUST BE IN NEUTRAL FOR FREE WHEELING OR SHIFTED
> INTO REVERSE TO LOCK PROPELLER WHILE SAILING."
>
> I always put Touche's tranny in reverse.  It has a Martec 2 blade folder.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!