Stus-List Leading Spinnaker Sheets on a 30-1

[RANDY via CnC-List]

30-1 Owners and Experts- 

Would you mind telling me how you lead spinnaker sheets on a 30-1? 
Specifically, where do you position your turning blocks, and where do you 
attach the inboard end of your reaching strut? 

I'm getting ready to race in the spinnaker division of my club, so I'm trying 
to nail down my spinnaker rigging plans. I've got snatch blocks to shackle to 
the rail as turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets, but don't know exactly 
where to position them fore and aft. I assume aft of the aft lifeline gate 
brace, which would seem to necessitate a reaching strut for wind angles less 
than say 135 degrees, in order for the guy to lead fairly from the pole jaws 
around the beam / stanchions / etc. to the turning block. 

That's fine, I have a reaching strut, but I don't know exactly how to rig it. 
Where does the inboard end attach? Toe rail? Same mast ring as the spin pole? 
Elsewhere? And am I correct to assume the inboard (jaw) end of the reaching 
strut should face jaw pin up? That way, on the outboard end, the guard keeping 
the guy on the sheave is up, not down. My reaching strut is of such a length 
that when I attach it to the mast ring, it doesn't seem long enough to push the 
guy clear of the beam. I also worry about the height of it that way. It won't 
attach to the mast collar, and I don't want to move he turning blocks forward 
to eliminate the need for it. 

Also how do you lead your spin sheets after the turning blocks? Through ratchet 
blocks? To winches? Which ones? And do you use twings? I fashioned some 
makeshift twings using extra mast collar blocks (which may be too heavy for 
twing usage) with lines crudely running through the stanchion bases near the 
chainplates and cleating on the dorade boxes. The twings may not be strictly 
necessary because I have a poe down line running through a snatch block 
shackled to a padeye on the foredeck then through fairleads to a cam cleat on 
the side of the cabin top. 

Thanks in Advance, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing forward hatch on 29-1

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Ian — let me know off-list if you’d like me to price one for you.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 9:18 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks everyone who replied. Looks like I'll go with Lewmar Ocean Series with 
> the flat base. 
> 
> Ian Matthew
> C&C 29-1  "Siento el Viento"
> San Francisco Bay 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing forward hatch on 29-1

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone who replied. Looks like I'll go with Lewmar Ocean Series
with the flat base.

Ian Matthew
C&C 29-1  "Siento el Viento"
San Francisco Bay




-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hahaha, it wasn't me filming. This is a good opportunity to bring back this 
chestnut: https://youtu.be/L1c1zf0_VxU

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 1:57 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Awesome!!
> 
> you gotta start holding yoour phone wide angle
> 
>> On 4/11/2016 2:04 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List wrote:
>> Yesterday we sailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground in 
>> Eagle Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I got careless), and 
>> dinner at the Harbor Island Pub we headed back into Puget Sound and were 
>> treated to this pod of Orca Whales. They came and checked us out and we 
>> sailed with them off our port beam for about 40 minutes. A number of times 
>> they swam directly under the boat, sometimes in pairs, on their backs. We 
>> saw at least one baby orca, and one patriarch with a dorsal fin at least 4ft 
>> tall. It was amazing. I’m still high from it. I’d never seen Orcas before in 
>> all my sailing on the Sound, and now we were face to face with them. Thought 
>> you guys might like to see!
>> 
>> https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk
>> 
>> My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do anything 
>> but squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broad reach in light airs 
>> and perfectly flat sea on our way past West Point towards the locks. Also, a 
>> little bonus - effectively zero wait time in the locks or at the bridges on 
>> our way to and from Lake Union!
>> 
>> Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of us in the 
>> southern hemisphere)! 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Andrew Means
>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
>> Seattle, WA
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

I'm not quite sure if it's a new bulb, or an entire new assembly.  I'm waiting 
for the yard to call me back with the model.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:06 PM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


>From the description in the original post, it sounds as if this is a complete 
>new LED assembly, and not just an LED substituted for an incandescent lamp in 
>an old fixture. In these assemblies, there is no "socket" the LED's are 
>soldered directly into the circuit board, and the assembly is permanently 
>sealed.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 7:02 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
In all likelihood, it is the socket that the LED bulb is mounted on. Those 
cheap sockets are notorious for corrosion and no amount of regulation is going 
to prevent the LED from flickering.  Go up the mast with a bit of sandpaper and 
some contact cleaner and I am willing to bet you will find your problem.
Don't over think it.

Mike Amirault
C&C 33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC  N.S.



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Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

From the description in the original post, it sounds as if this is a 
complete new LED assembly, and not just an LED substituted for an 
incandescent lamp in an old fixture. In these assemblies, there is no 
"socket" the LED's are soldered directly into the circuit board, and the 
assembly is permanently sealed.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 7:02 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
In all likelihood, it is the socket that the LED bulb is mounted on. 
Those cheap sockets are notorious for corrosion and no amount of 
regulation is going to prevent the LED from flickering.  Go up the 
mast with a bit of sandpaper and some contact cleaner and I am willing 
to bet you will find your problem.

Don’t over think it.
Mike Amirault
C&C 33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC  N.S.


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Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

In all likelihood, it is the socket that the LED bulb is mounted on. Those 
cheap sockets are notorious for corrosion and no amount of regulation is going 
to prevent the LED from flickering.  Go up the mast with a bit of sandpaper and 
some contact cleaner and I am willing to bet you will find your problem.
Don’t over think it.

Mike Amirault
C&C 33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC  N.S.___

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Re: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[svpegasus38]

  

Way cool. A friend was kayaking off Golden Gardens park and had them 
surface 50 yrds out from him. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Date: Wed, Jun 
29, 2016 14:01To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Danny Haughey;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Orcas on Puget Sound
Awesome!!you gotta start holding yoour phone wide angle

On 4/11/2016 2:04 PM, Andrew Means via  CnC-List wrote:
  body{font-family:Helvetica,Arial;font-size:13px}  Yesterday 
wesailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground in
Eagle Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I gotcareless), and 
dinner at the Harbor Island Pub we headed backinto Puget Sound and were 
treated to this pod of Orca Whales.They came and checked us out and we 
sailed with them off ourport beam for about 40 minutes. A number of 
times they swamdirectly under the boat, sometimes in pairs, on their 
backs. Wesaw at least one baby orca, and one patriarch with a dorsal 
finat least 4ft tall. It was amazing. I’m still high from it. I’d   
 never seen Orcas before in all my sailing on the Sound, and nowwe were 
face to face with them. Thought you guys might like tosee!  
https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk  
My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do
anything but squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broadreach 
in light airs and perfectly flat sea on our way past WestPoint towards 
the locks. Also, a little bonus - effectively zerowait time in the 
locks or at the bridges on our way to and fromLake Union!  
Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of   
 us in the southern hemisphere)!   
  -- 
  Andrew Means
  S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk ISeattle,  WA

  ___This list is supported by 
the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us 
pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!   
 
  

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Re: Stus-List Orcas on Puget Sound

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Awesome!!

you gotta start holding yoour phone wide angle


On 4/11/2016 2:04 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List wrote:
Yesterday we sailed to Bainbridge for lunch and, after running aground 
in Eagle Harbor (our depth sounder is on the fritz & I got careless), 
and dinner at the Harbor Island Pub we headed back into Puget Sound 
and were treated to this pod of Orca Whales. They came and checked us 
out and we sailed with them off our port beam for about 40 minutes. A 
number of times they swam directly under the boat, sometimes in pairs, 
on their backs. We saw at least one baby orca, and one patriarch with 
a dorsal fin at least 4ft tall. It was amazing. I’m still high from 
it. I’d never seen Orcas before in all my sailing on the Sound, and 
now we were face to face with them. Thought you guys might like to see!


https://youtu.be/1MYgneDPeLk

My friend’s wife Jamie shot the video (I was to agog to do anything 
but squeal). After this we proceeded to sail on a broad reach in light 
airs and perfectly flat sea on our way past West Point towards the 
locks. Also, a little bonus - effectively zero wait time in the locks 
or at the bridges on our way to and from Lake Union!


Hope you’re all having amazing springs (or falls for those of us in 
the southern hemisphere)!


--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA


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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I replaced the windows on my 29-2.  Had the tinted acrylic laser cut and 
beveled.   Much discussion of glue but the trick I used was running a jib sheet 
from the port to starboard through the cars and onto each winch pressing a 2x4 
across the windows and tightening with winch.  Jerry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 2:24 PM, johnr via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted a 
> site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing material 
> and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
> 
> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window material 
> and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John McLaughlin
> Falcon
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hah... Thanks Marek.  I usually fix things like this, but the components on
the small circuit board inside the fan housing were totally melted and it
will not turn on.


Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 12:00:18 -0400
From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Ryan,

it is a common problem with electronics and some electrical equipment ? you
let the smoke out. if you could put it back in, it would continue working.

Marek

From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 11:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had
two. I installed the first one, turned it on, it ran for about 1 minute and
I heard a loud pop followed by smoke. I installed the second one and no
smoke, but the speed switch is a total POS and it won't stay on unless it's
turned just right. You get what you pay for with fans. My Caframo 757
Ultimate on the other hand works great.

On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 2:39 PM,  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Fan Frustration! (Marek Dziedzic)
>2. Re:  Fan Frustration! (bria...@aol.com)
>3. Re:  Fan Frustration! (Della Barba, Joe)
>4. Re:  hottest trip ever (Daniel Sheer)
>5. Re:  Fan Frustration! (Pete Shelquist)
>6.  Window Replacement C&C29-2 (johnr)
>7. Re:  Fan Frustration! (Gary Nylander)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 12:00:18 -0400
> From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Ryan,
>
> it is a common problem with electronics and some electrical equipment ?
> you let the smoke out. if you could put it back in, it would continue
> working.
>
> Marek
>
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 11:16
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
>
> Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had
> two. I installed the first one, turned it on, it ran for about 1 minute and
> I heard a loud pop followed by smoke. I installed the second one and no
> smoke, but the speed switch is a total POS and it won't stay on unless it's
> turned just right. You get what you pay for with fans. My Caframo 757
> Ultimate on the other hand works great.
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160629/af9a39f7/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 13:00:05 -0400
> From: bria...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
> Message-ID: <86f37.25f191e4.44a55...@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> This probably sounds stupid, but I use a 20" home window fan  (120 VAC) on
> the inverter. Put the fan kiddy-cornered over the hatch, and still  can use
> the screen on the inside. Runs quiet and all night with minimum strain  on
> the batteries.
>
> Sets up a nice breeze through the boat.
>
> The only problem is if it rains
>
> Bill
>
> MYSTY
> 1986 Landfall 39
>
>
> In a message dated 6/29/2016 9:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:
>
>
> I  traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the
> small  ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load
> on one side  L
> Joe
> Coquina
> NOTE  TO SELF ? NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store
>
> !
>
>
>
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160629/74c62f43/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 17:07:44 +
> From: "De

Re: Stus-List was fans - Now what was your hottest trip ever

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

July 2009 Norwalk CT aboard old boat (Catalina 30).

Second night of cruise arrived Friday at town dock (a mile or so up the
river from shore). Hazy, hot and humid. Went to Aquarium and dinner. Back
to boat for night with plans to leave the next morning for Milford.

Late Friday night, boat is hit by lightning while sleeping. Everyone safe.
Boat not leaking. Went back to bet. Called insurance company Saturday AM
and they wanted us to get the boat hauled before going anywhere. Could not
get the boat hauled until Monday. In addition to frying all the
electronics, the reefer was a victim. Couldn't get block ice, so at least 3
bags a day went to keep food from spoiling.

Hazy, hot and hellish the rest of the weekend with virtually no sea breeze
in the middle of Norwalk. Only relieve was from the occasional passing
t-storm. Boat hauled Monday, no damage to hull. Crew voted to go home.

Eric
34/36

On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 11:18 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fans got me thinking – what was your hottest trip ever?
>
> I think our record was many years ago when my wife and I were out for 10
> days. Each day the heat index was well over 100 and every night found it
> still in the mid-80s or worse at midnight with 100% humidity. We slept in
> separate bunks to be a little cooler and it felt like breathing through a
> wet rag it was so humid at night. Fearing a mutiny, I left Oxford at sunset
> and we ran all night to Georgetown on the Sassafras. The water there is
> fresh, so you can swim nettle free and we got a room at the Kitty Night
> House for the next night. The day after that a cold front came through and
> we sailed all the way back to Annapolis on a reach with 15 knots and low
> humidity J
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

John — I just did this job.  I’ve located a local small business, family-owned, 
that does custom acrylic work.  They sourced the cast acrylic, and cut and 
shaped it to patterns I made.  I couldn’t use the old windows, as they came out 
in pieces; many small pieces...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 1:24 PM, johnr via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted a 
> site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing material 
> and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
> 
> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window material 
> and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John McLaughlin
> Falcon

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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I wanted to go to Baltimore a few years ago to see the Indy Car race. Great 
marina a block from Camden Yards and the temporary race track. Built a platform 
for the foredeck to hold an extra window A/C we happened to have sitting 
around. Opened the hatch and fabricated sides to keep the air in….. worked like 
a charm – lots cheaper than a CruiseAir.

 

Did it for three years until they discontinued the race.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete 
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 2:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

 

Or set the fan in the front hatch. Have it pull air from the boat and exhaust 
out. Little less noise in the boat and it pulls air through the whole boat. 

Sent from Outlook   on my iPhone

 





On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 12:00 PM -0500, "Bill via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:This probably 
sounds stupid, but I use a 20" home window fan (120 VAC) on the inverter. Put 
the fan kiddy-cornered over the hatch, and still can use the screen on the 
inside. Runs quiet and all night with minimum strain on the batteries.

 

Sets up a nice breeze through the boat.

 

The only problem is if it rains

 

Bill

 

MYSTY

1986 Landfall 39

 

In a message dated 6/29/2016 9:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   writes:

I traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the 
small ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load on one 
side :(

Joe

Coquina

NOTE TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store

 

!

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[johnr via CnC-List]

Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted a 
site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing material 
and I though I had saved it, but do not find.


Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window material 
and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?


Thanks,


John McLaughlin
Falcon
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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Or set the fan in the front hatch. Have it pull air from the boat and exhaust 
out. Little less noise in the boat and it pulls air through the whole boat. 

Sent from Outlook on my iPhone




On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 12:00 PM -0500, "Bill via CnC-List" 
 wrote:















This probably sounds stupid, but I use a 20" home window fan 
(120 VAC) on the inverter. Put the fan kiddy-cornered over the hatch, and still 
can use the screen on the inside. Runs quiet and all night with minimum strain 
on the batteries.
 
Sets up a nice breeze through the boat.
 
The only problem is if it rains
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39
 

In a message dated 6/29/2016 9:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

  
  

I 
  traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the 
small 
  ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load on one 
side 
  L
  

Joe
  

Coquina
  

NOTE 
  TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store
  

 
  
  !





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Re: Stus-List hottest trip ever

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

August '75 - or was it '76. Newly married. Wife and I on a Hinterhoeller Shark 
- 24' no standing headroom. Mill Creek off Whitehall Bay (just north of 
Annapolis) South down to St Margarets River (off the Potomac), across to Smith 
Island, up to Oxford, then St. Michaels then home. No wind, almost all motoring 
with the 9hp outboard. Double 90's all week. Sun so hot we had to wear 
sweatshirts from 10 - 3:30 to avoid sunburn. No money, so we stayed on the boat 
every night. Lots of nettles so no swimming. 

And we're still married!
Oh, did I mention the mosquitoes that carried the dog away? Or the eel that got 
loose and slimed up the cabin? Or running aground in muck that held like 
quicksand? Good, cause none of that happened... On that trip. 

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38 
Rock Creek off the Patapsco


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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My son wants to bring his big fan on the boat. Might give it a try!
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 13:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bria...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

This probably sounds stupid, but I use a 20" home window fan (120 VAC) on the 
inverter. Put the fan kiddy-cornered over the hatch, and still can use the 
screen on the inside. Runs quiet and all night with minimum strain on the 
batteries.

Sets up a nice breeze through the boat.

The only problem is if it rains

Bill

MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39

In a message dated 6/29/2016 9:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:
I traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the 
small ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load on one 
side ☹
Joe
Coquina
NOTE TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store

!
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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Bill via CnC-List]

This probably sounds stupid, but I use a 20" home window fan  (120 VAC) on 
the inverter. Put the fan kiddy-cornered over the hatch, and still  can use 
the screen on the inside. Runs quiet and all night with minimum strain  on 
the batteries.
 
Sets up a nice breeze through the boat.
 
The only problem is if it rains
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
1986 Landfall 39
 
 
In a message dated 6/29/2016 9:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

 
I  traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the 
small  ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load 
on one side  L 
Joe 
Coquina 
NOTE  TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store 
 
!




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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Ryan,

it is a common problem with electronics and some electrical equipment – you let 
the smoke out. if you could put it back in, it would continue working.

Marek

From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 11:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had two. 
I installed the first one, turned it on, it ran for about 1 minute and I heard 
a loud pop followed by smoke. I installed the second one and no smoke, but the 
speed switch is a total POS and it won't stay on unless it's turned just right. 
You get what you pay for with fans. My Caframo 757 Ultimate on the other hand 
works great.___

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Stus-List was fans - Now what was your hottest trip ever

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Fans got me thinking – what was your hottest trip ever?
I think our record was many years ago when my wife and I were out for 10 days. 
Each day the heat index was well over 100 and every night found it still in the 
mid-80s or worse at midnight with 100% humidity. We slept in separate bunks to 
be a little cooler and it felt like breathing through a wet rag it was so humid 
at night. Fearing a mutiny, I left Oxford at sunset and we ran all night to 
Georgetown on the Sassafras. The water there is fresh, so you can swim nettle 
free and we got a room at the Kitty Night House for the next night. The day 
after that a cold front came through and we sailed all the way back to 
Annapolis on a reach with 15 knots and low humidity ☺
Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Whatever you do, don't buy the cheap Hella Single Speed Jet fans... I had
two.  I installed the first one, turned it on, it ran for about 1 minute
and I heard a loud pop followed by smoke.  I installed the second one and
no smoke, but the speed switch is a total POS and it won't stay on unless
it's turned just right.  You get what you pay for with fans.  My Caframo
757 Ultimate on the other hand works great.
___

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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You don’t HAVE to be. Just fire up the genset on deck and annoy the entire 
anchorage ☹

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 11:06
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

I hear you.  If it's that hot we switch to the 16,000 BTU CruisAir and set the 
thermostat on "meat locker".  Of course, we need to be hooked to shore power.  
:(
Dennis C.

On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 9:53 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Low speed they are fine, but on high speed – which is what gets used on a hot 
99% humidity night – they are terrible.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 10:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!


I use one of those, with a 10 foot extension clipped to the sliding hatch to 
help create a little breeze in the cockpit on hot days. :-)

Bill Bina



On 6/29/2016 10:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I have two of the Caframo compacts.  On low speed I don't find them that noisy. 
 I added the clip on mount and put 12 vdc receptacles in strategic locations so 
I can put the fans where I want them.  See:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX1dZQ2pQZmlhMkk
Dennis C.



___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I hear you.  If it's that hot we switch to the 16,000 BTU CruisAir and set
the thermostat on "meat locker".  Of course, we need to be hooked to shore
power.  :(

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 9:53 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Low speed they are fine, but on high speed – which is what gets used on a
> hot 99% humidity night – they are terrible.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Bina - gmail via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 29, 2016 10:21
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!
>
>
>
> I use one of those, with a 10 foot extension clipped to the sliding hatch
> to help create a little breeze in the cockpit on hot days. :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
>
>
> On 6/29/2016 10:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have two of the Caframo compacts.  On low speed I don't find them that
> noisy.  I added the clip on mount and put 12 vdc receptacles in strategic
> locations so I can put the fans where I want them.  See:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX1dZQ2pQZmlhMkk
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

As I said, I'm using it outside on hot days. It moves a lot of air, and 
noise doesn't matter much in that application. Inside, I'm using Boras. 
They are very quiet and use less power than the rest of the Caframo line.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 10:53 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Low speed they are fine, but on high speed – which is what gets used 
on a hot 99% humidity night – they are terrible.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, June 29, 2016 10:21
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Bill Bina - gmail
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

I use one of those, with a 10 foot extension clipped to the sliding 
hatch to help create a little breeze in the cockpit on hot days. :-)


Bill Bina




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Low speed they are fine, but on high speed - which is what gets used on a hot 
99% humidity night - they are terrible.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 10:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!


I use one of those, with a 10 foot extension clipped to the sliding hatch to 
help create a little breeze in the cockpit on hot days. :-)

Bill Bina



On 6/29/2016 10:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I have two of the Caframo compacts.  On low speed I don't find them that noisy. 
 I added the clip on mount and put 12 vdc receptacles in strategic locations so 
I can put the fans where I want them.  See:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX1dZQ2pQZmlhMkk
Dennis C.


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Re: Stus-List Ram Mic...

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Who makes you old RAM mic?  I have an Icom that you are welcome to.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 29, 2016 9:42 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

> My older Ram Mic has stopped transmitting and I am trying to avoid
> replacing the whole VHF rig (the new RAM Mics doe not support the older
> radios).
>
> Anybody have an older RAM mic they want to sell?
>
> And at the same time my never used Icom M 34 turns on and does nothing.
> Full battery and full display but no receiving and transmitting.   My guess
> is it is not worth replacing...any experience fixing these semi-disposable
> items?
>
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_-5094877612154875628_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill...good advice.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 9:24 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Probably wouldn't hurt to call tech support at the manufacture before you go up 
the mast. They may have some tips for how to do a comprehensive evaluation. 
They might even offer to send you a new unit in advance before you go up, with 
the agreement to send back the defective one to avoid being charged. Some 
manufacturers do that. They sell you a new one, and issue a full refund as soon 
as you send the old one back.

On 6/29/2016 9:12 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:
I just reread your post and saw that it's 'built in'.  Looks like a trip up the 
mast.   Thanks.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 wrote:


That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That is true 
even of LED replacement lamps put in the original incandescent fixture. It 
sounds as if your regulator is defective. That the light is sometimes dim is 
the giveaway. The regulator is designed (when working properly) to make up for 
incoming voltage that is either lower or higher than required.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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___

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___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I use one of those, with a 10 foot extension clipped to the sliding 
hatch to help create a little breeze in the cockpit on hot days. :-)


Bill Bina



On 6/29/2016 10:12 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I have two of the Caframo compacts.  On low speed I don't find them 
that noisy.  I added the clip on mount and put 12 vdc receptacles in 
strategic locations so I can put the fans where I want them.  See:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX1dZQ2pQZmlhMkk

Dennis C.



___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have two of the Caframo compacts.  On low speed I don't find them that
noisy.  I added the clip on mount and put 12 vdc receptacles in strategic
locations so I can put the fans where I want them.  See:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX1dZQ2pQZmlhMkk

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 8:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the
> small ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load on
> one side L
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> NOTE TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2016 13:00
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fan Frustration!
>
>
>
> I bought two new fans and they both are NOISY! WTF? The old ones I was
> replacing because they made too much noise were better despite probably
> having run for 1,000 hours.
>
> I got one of these, CAFRAMO Two-Speed Compact 12V DC Fan and one of
> these, CAFRAMO Sirocco Cabin Fans.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Ram Mic...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If your current radio does not have DSC, GPS, AIS, etc., it may be time to
upgrade.  I tend to upgrade my VHF every 3-4 years when new features are
added.

Sell your old one on eBay to recoup some cost.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1#83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jun 29, 2016 at 8:41 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My older Ram Mic has stopped transmitting and I am trying to avoid
> replacing the whole VHF rig (the new RAM Mics doe not support the older
> radios).
>
> Anybody have an older RAM mic they want to sell?
>
> And at the same time my never used Icom M 34 turns on and does nothing.
> Full battery and full display but no receiving and transmitting.   My guess
> is it is not worth replacing...any experience fixing these semi-disposable
> items?
>
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_1171802254811792175_m_2706164882490688229_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have a Bora that is doing well too. The Sirocco is bigger and moves more air 
and some of them are quiet.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 09:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!


I'm using the Caframo Bora model, and they are both extremely low power draw, 
and very quiet.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 9:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
I traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the 
small ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load on one 
side :(
Joe
Coquina
NOTE TO SELF - NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 13:00
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

I bought two new fans and they both are NOISY! WTF? The old ones I was 
replacing because they made too much noise were better despite probably having 
run for 1,000 hours.
I got one of these, CAFRAMO Two-Speed Compact 12V DC Fan and one of these, 
CAFRAMO Sirocco Cabin Fans.
Joe
Coquina




___



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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Ram Mic...

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

David — unfortunately, I sold my older RAM mic this past spring.  If you’re 
interested, I do have a used Standard Horizon GX-2150 VHF for sale; it takes 
the newer RAM3 mic.  I can get the RAM3 mics at dealer cost.

As far as the handheld goes, you could check with the nearest Icom repair 
center and see what they suggest for repairs: 
http://www.icomamerica.com/en/support/repair/default.aspx 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:41 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> My older Ram Mic has stopped transmitting and I am trying to avoid replacing 
> the whole VHF rig (the new RAM Mics doe not support the older radios).
> 
> Anybody have an older RAM mic they want to sell?
> 
> And at the same time my never used Icom M 34 turns on and does nothing.   
> Full battery and full display but no receiving and transmitting.   My guess 
> is it is not worth replacing...any experience fixing these semi-disposable 
> items?
> 
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Ram Mic...

[David via CnC-List]

My older Ram Mic has stopped transmitting and I am trying to avoid replacing 
the whole VHF rig (the new RAM Mics doe not support the older radios).

Anybody have an older RAM mic they want to sell?

And at the same time my never used Icom M 34 turns on and does nothing.   Full 
battery and full display but no receiving and transmitting.   My guess is it is 
not worth replacing...any experience fixing these semi-disposable items?


David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)




Virus-free. www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Probably wouldn't hurt to call tech support at the manufacture before 
you go up the mast. They may have some tips for how to do a 
comprehensive evaluation. They might even offer to send you a new unit 
in advance before you go up, with the agreement to send back the 
defective one to avoid being charged. Some manufacturers do that. They 
sell you a new one, and issue a full refund as soon as you send the old 
one back.



On 6/29/2016 9:12 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:
I just reread your post and saw that it's 'built in'.  Looks like a 
trip up the mast.   Thanks.


Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That 
is true even of LED replacement lamps put in the original 
incandescent fixture. It sounds as if your regulator is defective. 
That the light is sometimes dim is the giveaway. The regulator is 
designed (when working properly) to make up for incoming voltage that 
is either lower or higher than required.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

I'm using the Caframo Bora model, and they are both extremely low power 
draw, and very quiet.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 9:10 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


I traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of 
the small ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a 
heavy load on one side L


Joe

Coquina

NOTE TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2016 13:00
*To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
*Subject:* Stus-List Fan Frustration!

I bought two new fans and they both are NOISY! WTF? The old ones I was 
replacing because they made too much noise were better despite 
probably having run for 1,000 hours.


I got one of these, CAFRAMO Two-Speed Compact 12V DC Fan and one of 
these, CAFRAMO Sirocco Cabin Fans.


Joe

Coquina



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

I just reread your post and saw that it's 'built in'.  Looks like a trip up the 
mast.   Thanks.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That is true 
even of LED replacement lamps put in the original incandescent fixture. It 
sounds as if your regulator is defective. That the light is sometimes dim is 
the giveaway. The regulator is designed (when working properly) to make up for 
incoming voltage that is either lower or higher than required.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I traded the big fan for another one that is quiet. I tried several of the 
small ones and they all vibrate like a washing machine with a heavy load on one 
side ☹
Joe
Coquina
NOTE TO SELF – NEVER buy a fan without testing in the store

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 13:00
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Fan Frustration!

I bought two new fans and they both are NOISY! WTF? The old ones I was 
replacing because they made too much noise were better despite probably having 
run for 1,000 hours.
I got one of these, CAFRAMO Two-Speed Compact 12V DC Fan and one of these, 
CAFRAMO Sirocco Cabin Fans.
Joe
Coquina
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

There is a small compass wire holder inside the pedestal that holds it tight 
against the pedestal wall.  Clearances are pretty tight.
Chuck Gilchrest

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:45 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Of course the wire for the compass light almost always comes up through the 
> pedestal.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> - Original Message -
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 07:42
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161
> 
> Running the electrical wires through the pedestal has several down sides:
> 1.   Fouling the steering chain and cable.  The chain and steering wires 
> cross inside the pedestal, the geometry of which is determined by the height 
> of the pedestal, and the positioning of the sheaves on the below deck idler 
> plate.  Unless you would insert a protective conduit inside the pedestal, 
> your instrument wiring could easily get hung up on the chain to wire 
> connector and either prevent the boat from turning (bad)  or wear through the 
> insulation on the instrument wires (very bad if it is a power cable).
> 2.  To run the wires inside the pedestal, at some place you need to 
> extract the wires and run them externally up to your instruments.  That 
> creates issues.  Drilling a large hole through the side of the pedestal to 
> pass through a wire connection leaves a big hole in the pedestal.  Water can 
> get in, the wire can (and will) chafe on the opening, and once the wires have 
> chafed through their own insulation, there will be current running through 
> the pedestal.  Because pedestals are powder coated, not spray painted, 
> there’s no faster way to strip paint off a pedestal than to have it energized 
> by a GPS or sailing instruments.
> 3.  Running wires externally on a pedestal leaves the wires venerable to 
> being pulled, grabbed, or otherwise subjected to disconnection or breakage 
> when someone accidentally grabs at the pedestal, wheel, or guard.  This can 
> occur just walking around the wheel or losing one’s balance in a seaway.   
> Running wires internally means there’s nothing to damage or get corroded.
>  
> Hopefully at some point, wireless connectivity will replace the hassle of 
> running wires to our helm mounted instruments.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul.hood 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 1:40 PM
> To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: paul.hood 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161
>  
> I find it interesting that nobody mentioned going through the pedestal.   To 
> be honest I was very hesitant about going that direction for various reasons. 
> I was using the small end for feeding on all given cables. Depending on which 
> cable, they are still 3/4 and 7/8 at the smallest ends. Trandducer being the 
> 7/8.   I guess I'll need to upside the guard and wire through the guard.  
>  
> Thanks,
> Paul Hood
> 416.799.5549 c
>  
> From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Paul,
> 
> As Fred said, you can try running the wires the other way. I did that for a 
> different chartplotter (Garmin), so the connectors were smaller (about 1/2? 
> if I recall), but I found it easier to run the cable from the pedestal end 
> into the inside of the boat (rather than the other way around).
> 
> With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
> larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 
> 
> Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is apain. You better have good 
> tools and know how to do that (in one word ? slow). A good hole saw (e.g. 
> Milwaukee bi-metal 
> (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and a 
> tungsten cutter (e.g. 
> https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
> would be your friends (and a good investment).
> 
> And if you have some wires running through the guard already, be prepared 
> that the holes were drilled without being properly filled with epoxy.
> 
> I would not cut the wires for the depth transducer.
> 
> good luck
> 
> Marek
> 1994 C270 ?Legato?
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> From: paul.hood via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 01:03
> To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: paul.hood 
> Subject: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
> 
> Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
> alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by 
> Standard Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal 
> Guard rail is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I
> 1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Of course the wire for the compass light almost always comes up through the 
pedestal. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2016 07:42
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161


  Running the electrical wires through the pedestal has several down sides:

  1.   Fouling the steering chain and cable.  The chain and steering wires 
cross inside the pedestal, the geometry of which is determined by the height of 
the pedestal, and the positioning of the sheaves on the below deck idler plate. 
 Unless you would insert a protective conduit inside the pedestal, your 
instrument wiring could easily get hung up on the chain to wire connector and 
either prevent the boat from turning (bad)  or wear through the insulation on 
the instrument wires (very bad if it is a power cable).

  2.  To run the wires inside the pedestal, at some place you need to 
extract the wires and run them externally up to your instruments.  That creates 
issues.  Drilling a large hole through the side of the pedestal to pass through 
a wire connection leaves a big hole in the pedestal.  Water can get in, the 
wire can (and will) chafe on the opening, and once the wires have chafed 
through their own insulation, there will be current running through the 
pedestal.  Because pedestals are powder coated, not spray painted, there’s no 
faster way to strip paint off a pedestal than to have it energized by a GPS or 
sailing instruments.

  3.  Running wires externally on a pedestal leaves the wires venerable to 
being pulled, grabbed, or otherwise subjected to disconnection or breakage when 
someone accidentally grabs at the pedestal, wheel, or guard.  This can occur 
just walking around the wheel or losing one’s balance in a seaway.   Running 
wires internally means there’s nothing to damage or get corroded.

   

  Hopefully at some point, wireless connectivity will replace the hassle of 
running wires to our helm mounted instruments.

  Chuck Gilchrest

  S/V Half Magic

  1983 LF 35

  Padanaram, MA

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul.hood 
via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 1:40 PM
  To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: paul.hood 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161

   

  I find it interesting that nobody mentioned going through the pedestal.   To 
be honest I was very hesitant about going that direction for various reasons. I 
was using the small end for feeding on all given cables. Depending on which 
cable, they are still 3/4 and 7/8 at the smallest ends. Trandducer being the 
7/8.   I guess I'll need to upside the guard and wire through the guard.  

   

  Thanks,

  Paul Hood

  416.799.5549 c

   

  From: "Marek Dziedzic" 
  To: 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
  Message-ID: 
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

  Paul,

  As Fred said, you can try running the wires the other way. I did that for a 
different chartplotter (Garmin), so the connectors were smaller (about 1/2? if 
I recall), but I found it easier to run the cable from the pedestal end into 
the inside of the boat (rather than the other way around).

  With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 

  Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
and know how to do that (in one word ? slow). A good hole saw (e.g. Milwaukee 
bi-metal (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and a 
tungsten cutter (e.g. 
https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
would be your friends (and a good investment).

  And if you have some wires running through the guard already, be prepared 
that the holes were drilled without being properly filled with epoxy.

  I would not cut the wires for the depth transducer.

  good luck

  Marek
  1994 C270 ?Legato?
  Ottawa, ON

  From: paul.hood via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 01:03
  To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: paul.hood 
  Subject: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

  Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard 
Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail 
is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I
  1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through 
guard into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)
  2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of 
pedestal.  
  3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on 
either the guard or pedestal



  Paul Hood
  81 C&C34
  --

Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill.  I'm guessing that the regulator is up at top of the mast with 
light?   Do I need to replace the whole assembly?

Thanks,

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That is true 
even of LED replacement lamps put in the original incandescent fixture. It 
sounds as if your regulator is defective. That the light is sometimes dim is 
the giveaway. The regulator is designed (when working properly) to make up for 
incoming voltage that is either lower or higher than required.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That is 
true even of LED replacement lamps put in the original incandescent 
fixture. It sounds as if your regulator is defective. That the light is 
sometimes dim is the giveaway. The regulator is designed (when working 
properly) to make up for incoming voltage that is either lower or higher 
than required.


Bill Bina


On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Running the electrical wires through the pedestal has several down sides:

1.   Fouling the steering chain and cable.  The chain and steering wires 
cross inside the pedestal, the geometry of which is determined by the height of 
the pedestal, and the positioning of the sheaves on the below deck idler plate. 
 Unless you would insert a protective conduit inside the pedestal, your 
instrument wiring could easily get hung up on the chain to wire connector and 
either prevent the boat from turning (bad)  or wear through the insulation on 
the instrument wires (very bad if it is a power cable).

2.  To run the wires inside the pedestal, at some place you need to extract 
the wires and run them externally up to your instruments.  That creates issues. 
 Drilling a large hole through the side of the pedestal to pass through a wire 
connection leaves a big hole in the pedestal.  Water can get in, the wire can 
(and will) chafe on the opening, and once the wires have chafed through their 
own insulation, there will be current running through the pedestal.  Because 
pedestals are powder coated, not spray painted, there’s no faster way to strip 
paint off a pedestal than to have it energized by a GPS or sailing instruments.

3.  Running wires externally on a pedestal leaves the wires venerable to 
being pulled, grabbed, or otherwise subjected to disconnection or breakage when 
someone accidentally grabs at the pedestal, wheel, or guard.  This can occur 
just walking around the wheel or losing one’s balance in a seaway.   Running 
wires internally means there’s nothing to damage or get corroded.

 

Hopefully at some point, wireless connectivity will replace the hassle of 
running wires to our helm mounted instruments.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul.hood 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 1:40 PM
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.hood 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 125, Issue 161

 

I find it interesting that nobody mentioned going through the pedestal.   To be 
honest I was very hesitant about going that direction for various reasons. I 
was using the small end for feeding on all given cables. Depending on which 
cable, they are still 3/4 and 7/8 at the smallest ends. Trandducer being the 
7/8.   I guess I'll need to upside the guard and wire through the guard.  

 

Thanks,

Paul Hood

416.799.5549 c

 

From: "Marek Dziedzic" mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com> >
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring
Message-ID: mailto:blu407-eas116e400913c166985ce8560ce...@phx.gbl> >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul,

As Fred said, you can try running the wires the other way. I did that for a 
different chartplotter (Garmin), so the connectors were smaller (about 1/2? if 
I recall), but I found it easier to run the cable from the pedestal end into 
the inside of the boat (rather than the other way around).

With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 

Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
and know how to do that (in one word ? slow). A good hole saw (e.g. Milwaukee 
bi-metal (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and a 
tungsten cutter (e.g. 
https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
would be your friends (and a good investment).

And if you have some wires running through the guard already, be prepared that 
the holes were drilled without being properly filled with epoxy.

I would not cut the wires for the depth transducer.

good luck

Marek
1994 C270 ?Legato?
Ottawa, ON

From: paul.hood via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 01:03
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com   ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: paul.hood 
Subject: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

Im trying to send wiring (Transducer and vhf/power) to the Chart plotter and 
alao to a ram mike at the pedestal  Wire ends are factory and told by Standard 
Horizon not to cut.  They are 3/4" and 7/8" diameter each Pedestal Guard rail 
is barely 1" O.D.  I'm looking for recommendations. Do I
1) make huge elongated holes in the pedestal guard and run wiring through guard 
into cockpit floor (7/8" head won't even fit the I.D. of guard)
2) come up through pedestal instead and drill a hole in the backside of 
pedestal.  
3) cut wire ends off and reconnect after bring them through a smaller hole on 
either the guard or pedestal



Paul Hood
81 C&C34
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 


--

Subject: Digest Footer

___

Re: Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,
 
Check the connection from the mast to the boat for tightness and corrosion.
The bulb could also be loose in the fixture at the top of the mast.
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25
Halifax, NS. 
 
On 06/29/16 08:18, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  wrote: 
>  
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
> Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
> Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
> intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed 
> down into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had 
> a bad connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original 
> electrical panel with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the 
> top of the mast is new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I 
> tore it apart I thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.
> 
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C&C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C&C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Pedestal wiring

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I used Fred's technique on my guard and it worked really well.  I was surprised 
how painless it was.

Thanks again Fred!

DannyOn Jun 28, 2016 1:59 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> I don’t use hole saws and the like; I’ve found a much better and faster way 
> to do this.  Most pods like the Navpod series have basically a round hole for 
> wire entry; but the pod itself covers a much larger area of the tubing.  As 
> some of the connectors don’t turn a 90° angle when exiting the tubing, I’ve 
> found it much easier to cut an elongated hole in the tubing without the pod 
> mounted, pass all the wiring through that hole, THEN pass the wires into the 
> pod and mount it.
>
> The way I cut the hole is to use the cheap grinding wheels on my Handy Dremel 
> Tool (to use Wal’s moniker…).  I make two angled cuts for the top and bottom 
> of the hole, then cut straight sides, like in this drawing:
>
> http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/Navpodcutout.pdf
>
> This makes it much easier to get all those connectors and wiring through the 
> guard into a pod.  Also, make sure to pull the cables with the largest 
> connectors first, so you don’t fill the guard tubing with lots of wires, then 
> have to try to stuff a large connector through, too.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>> On Jun 28, 2016, at 10:58 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>
>> With a large connector, you will have to cut an elongated hole, even in a 
>> larger diameter guard, because the connector would not bend. 
>>  
>> Drilling through the SS pedestal guard is a pain. You better have good tools 
>> and know how to do that (in one word – slow). A good hole saw (e.g. 
>> Milwaukee bi-metal 
>> (https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/accessories/drilling/49-56-9662)) and a 
>> tungsten cutter (e.g. 
>> https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9901) 
>> would be your friends (and a good investment).
>
>
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