Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[RANDY via CnC-List]

OK I put one such spreadsheet in 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTbG9JcGs1MFpWOTQ, called 
Corrections.xlsx. It shows time corrections in seconds using PHRF TOT for a 
number of different boats in my club, given elapsed time in a race. For example 
in a one-hour JAM race I have to beat the Catalina 27s by two minutes, and the 
Catalina 25 by 3.5 minutes, or they'll correct over me. 

You could edit the spreadsheet to contain data for the boats in your race 
(given their PHRF ratings), and use the data to figure out start times. Column 
D contains the Time Correction Factor for each boat, given its PHRF rating and 
the PHRF TOT formula TCF=A/(B+PHRF). You can plug in whatever values your club 
uses into cells B2 and B3. 

I've asked my club's scorer for his pursuit race start time spreadsheet, and 
will put it on my Google drive when I get it, and notify you. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Kevin Driscoll"  
To: "RANDY" , "cnc-list"  
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 9:13:09 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race 



Thanks everybody. Randy, if it were not too much trouble it would be great to 
see your spreadsheet. Dennis sent one that I could definitely use too. I have 
this great IRC version, but it doesn't apply for PHRF. Regatta Rasta man is pay 
to play so I am going to pass on that. We'll be doing time on distance with the 
course set up ahead of thin time. 

Keep sharing your experience of you have more to add. Thanks again everyone! 
On Mon, Oct 10, 2016, 6:39 PM RANDY < randy.staff...@comcast.net > wrote: 



Yeah we just had one yesterday. Start times per PHRF rating were calculated 
using TOT (A=715, B=515) assuming a two-hour race. We just race laps around 
three pre-designated marks in our lake. 90 minutes into the race, the next mark 
ahead for the lead boat becomes the last mark everybody has to round. We don't 
use an RC boat for this; starting at the right time is an honor system (and the 
finish order is obvious; no correction needed). We use a pair of no-wake-zone 
buoys as the start line, and the marina channel markers as the finish line. You 
can see our SIs here, including a table of start times per PHRF rating 
(assuming a 2:00 p.m. start for the first (slowest) boat racing) - 
https://csyc.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CSYC-2016-PursuitRace.pdf . I don't 
have the spreadsheet that was used to figure these start times, but I could 
probably get it if you want it. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 


From: "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "C List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: "Kevin Driscoll" < kevindrisc...@gmail.com > 
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16:20 PM 

Subject: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race 

Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race' before? 
I am curious how you went about it. 

Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
rating. These are our contestants . I figure there will be three starts. 1 for 
the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the 
Pursuit racers. This is the first race in our winter series, which runs till 
March. We thought we might kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your 
input! 

Kevin 
30-2 

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greatly appreciated! 




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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Hi

NCYC will also be trying a pursuit race best summer. 

I would also appreciate spreadsheet templates with sample data. 

We are a non racing cruising club with very few boats having a PHRF 
ceetificate. This makes the  base numbers imaginative!

Don

Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca


> On Oct 10, 2016, at 11:13 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks everybody. Randy, if it were not too much trouble it would be great to 
> see your spreadsheet. Dennis sent one that I could definitely use too. I have 
> this great IRC version, but it doesn't apply for PHRF.  Regatta Rasta man is 
> pay to play so I am going to pass on that. We'll be doing time on distance 
> with the course set up ahead of thin time.
> 
> Keep sharing your experience of you have more to add. Thanks again everyone!
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Oct 10, 2016, 6:39 PM RANDY  wrote:
>> Yeah we just had one yesterday.  Start times per PHRF rating were calculated 
>> using TOT (A=715, B=515) assuming a two-hour race.  We just race laps around 
>> three pre-designated marks in our lake.  90 minutes into the race, the next 
>> mark ahead for the lead boat becomes the last mark everybody has to round.  
>> We don't use an RC boat for this; starting at the right time is an honor 
>> system (and the finish order is obvious; no correction needed).  We use a 
>> pair of no-wake-zone buoys as the start line, and the marina channel markers 
>> as the finish line.  You can see our SIs here, including a table of start 
>> times per PHRF rating (assuming a 2:00 p.m. start for the first (slowest) 
>> boat racing) - 
>> https://csyc.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CSYC-2016-PursuitRace.pdf.  I 
>> don't have the spreadsheet that was used to figure these start times, but I 
>> could probably get it if you want it.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30-1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> 
>> From: "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Cc: "Kevin Driscoll" 
>> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16:20 PM
>> 
>> Subject: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race
>> 
>> Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit 
>> Race'before? I am curious how you went about it. 
>> 
>> Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each 
>> boat's rating. These are our contestants. I figure there will be three 
>> starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No Score' racers, and another for 
>> PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the first race in our winter series, 
>> which runs till March. We thought we might kick it off with a fun race 
>> format. Thanks for your input!
>> 
>> Kevin 
>> 30-2
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Thanks everybody. Randy, if it were not too much trouble it would be great
to see your spreadsheet. Dennis sent one that I could definitely use too. I
have this great IRC version, but it doesn't apply for PHRF.  Regatta Rasta
man is pay to play so I am going to pass on that. We'll be doing time on
distance with the course set up ahead of thin time.

Keep sharing your experience of you have more to add. Thanks again
everyone!

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016, 6:39 PM RANDY  wrote:

> Yeah we just had one yesterday.  Start times per PHRF rating were
> calculated using TOT (A=715, B=515) assuming a two-hour race.  We just race
> laps around three pre-designated marks in our lake.  90 minutes into the
> race, the next mark ahead for the lead boat becomes the last mark everybody
> has to round.  We don't use an RC boat for this; starting at the right time
> is an honor system (and the finish order is obvious; no correction
> needed).  We use a pair of no-wake-zone buoys as the start line, and the
> marina channel markers as the finish line.  You can see our SIs here,
> including a table of start times per PHRF rating (assuming a 2:00 p.m.
> start for the first (slowest) boat racing) -
> https://csyc.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CSYC-2016-PursuitRace.pdf.  I
> don't have the spreadsheet that was used to figure these start times, but I
> could probably get it if you want it.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C List" 
> *Cc: *"Kevin Driscoll" 
> *Sent: *Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16:20 PM
>
> *Subject: *Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race
>
> Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race'
> before?
> I am curious how you went about it.
>
> Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each
> boat's rating. These are our contestants
> .
> I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No
> Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the
> first race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might
> kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!
>
> Kevin
> 30-2
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Different engine, but the same procedure.

I take the intake hose off the seacock and connect a length of hose (about 2 m 
(6-7 Ft)). This goes into a bucket (e.g. from home depot, 5 gal). I run a 
garden hose to it from a water supply. I fill the bucket with water and start 
the engine. This way you can run the engine as long as you want (e.g. until it 
warms up). You regulate the level of the water in the bucket by adjusting the 
throttle and the flow of water. When the engine is warm enough, I stop it. Now 
I replace the water with antifreeze. A few gallons should be enough. In my 
Perkins I use almost a full bucket (antifreeze is cheap, engine parts are not). 
When the AF is gone from the bucket, I stop the engine. My long hose is almost 
transparent so I can time it, so there is very little AF left in it. If you 
want to be sure, you can capture some of the AF coming out of the exhaust and 
check with a $15 refractometer.

This method helps with changing the oil- the engine is warm.

You can push the water out of the muffler with a shopvac half way through.

Marek
C270, “Legato”
Ottawa, ON


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: RANDY via CnC-List
Sent: October 10, 2016 21:50
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4

My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming up in a few 
weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run antifreeze through the raw-water 
cooling system until it comes out the exhaust.  My main question is how to get 
the antifreeze into the raw water intake.  I've seen a gadget made from a 
toilet plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone, that can be 
held over the raw water intake with the other end of the hose in a bucket of 
antifreeze.  Any other recommended techniques?  Any other general tips on 
properly winterizing an A4?

Thanks,
Randy
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I just disconnect the intake hose from the seacock and stick it into a
bottle of antifreeze. I'm running without thermostat however so it's
simple. If you're new with the A4 a great resource is moyer marine. The
forums there are really helpful.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 9:49 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming up in a
> few weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run antifreeze through the
> raw-water cooling system until it comes out the exhaust.  My main question
> is how to get the antifreeze into the raw water intake.  I've seen a gadget
> made from a toilet plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone,
> that can be held over the raw water intake with the other end of the hose
> in a bucket of antifreeze.  Any other recommended techniques?  Any other
> general tips on properly winterizing an A4?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You can plumb in auxiliary suctions that will let you draw glycol straight
out of the jug.  If you haul the boat you can stuff a tygon hose up the
through hull and beer bong the glycol into the engine.  Or you can try the
seaflush.  I have one and it works, though it might be a bit over priced.
I like using the shop vac to blow the water out.  That may actually be
sufficient.   I am cautious though and carefully consider the possibility
of stagnant loops of water.  So, despite "blowing out"  the engine, I also
run glycol.  The nice thing is that I don't have to worry as much about the
water diluting the glycol.  It takes way less glycol to provide freeze
protection.

http://www.seaflush.com/sea-flush-1/

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 10, 2016 9:50 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List"  wrote:

> My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming up in a
> few weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run antifreeze through the
> raw-water cooling system until it comes out the exhaust.  My main question
> is how to get the antifreeze into the raw water intake.  I've seen a gadget
> made from a toilet plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone,
> that can be held over the raw water intake with the other end of the hose
> in a bucket of antifreeze.  Any other recommended techniques?  Any other
> general tips on properly winterizing an A4?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4

[RANDY via CnC-List]

My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming up in a few 
weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run antifreeze through the raw-water 
cooling system until it comes out the exhaust. My main question is how to get 
the antifreeze into the raw water intake. I've seen a gadget made from a toilet 
plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone, that can be held over 
the raw water intake with the other end of the hose in a bucket of antifreeze. 
Any other recommended techniques? Any other general tips on properly 
winterizing an A4? 

Thanks, 
Randy 
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Yeah we just had one yesterday. Start times per PHRF rating were calculated 
using TOT (A=715, B=515) assuming a two-hour race. We just race laps around 
three pre-designated marks in our lake. 90 minutes into the race, the next mark 
ahead for the lead boat becomes the last mark everybody has to round. We don't 
use an RC boat for this; starting at the right time is an honor system (and the 
finish order is obvious; no correction needed). We use a pair of no-wake-zone 
buoys as the start line, and the marina channel markers as the finish line. You 
can see our SIs here, including a table of start times per PHRF rating 
(assuming a 2:00 p.m. start for the first (slowest) boat racing) - 
https://csyc.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/CSYC-2016-PursuitRace.pdf. I don't 
have the spreadsheet that was used to figure these start times, but I could 
probably get it if you want it. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List"  
To: "C List"  
Cc: "Kevin Driscoll"  
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2016 5:16:20 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race 

Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race' before? 
I am curious how you went about it. 

Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
rating. These are our contestants . I figure there will be three starts. 1 for 
the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the 
Pursuit racers. This is the first race in our winter series, which runs till 
March. We thought we might kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your 
input! 

Kevin 
30-2 

___ 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

Thanks Dave. I recall meeting you and thanks for your past and current advice. 
As it turned out on the banging problem we discussed turned out to be a massive 
brain fart on my part. I had replaced the plastic shift lever with a stainless 
one and the throws are different. The replacement stainless lever was coming in 
contact with the protector before forward was fully engaged which caused the 
banging. I figured it out a few days after we met. 
Cheers,Doug 

On Monday, October 10, 2016 8:36 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 Hi Doug,
Third GTA winter coming up and I have not yet run the red stuff through 
windstar's engine.  (IIRC the manual does not mention doing this)   What I have 
done is drain the water lock muffler and raw water strainer, remove the hoses 
to the water pump, then drain the block through the two valves on the engine 
block.  (access under the galley sink)  Blow any water out though the water 
pump hose.   Not sure whether that's optimal or notAnyway, If I were to use 
the red stuff, (and I may) I would drain everything first so I could be sure 
that the antifreeze was not too diluted.  It really is a good time to look in 
on the water pump impeller..I would also check the specific gravity of the 
coolant to ensure its freeze point is low enough.  You can get a tester at 
Crappy tire for this for less than $10.Top up the batteries with distilled 
water.
Dave (we met on pier 7 - whitby)
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 20:34:55 + (UTC)
From: <doug.we...@rogers.com>
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F
Message-ID: <1911996305.1436982. 1476131695...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It's my first year with the 2GM20F and it's almost time to winterize it. Is 
there anything I need to do other running anti freeze through the fresh water 
intake until it comes out the exhaust??
Cheers,Doug
Celtic Knot33-2
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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Kevin

OR you could get www.regattaman.com to do it for you..check out their 
website and in the calendar headingfind the Great Chase Race...see how 
they did results for about 120 boats.September 10th 

You can also check out scratch sheets and sailing instructions at the same link.


Great fun

Ron C.


Get Outlook for Android






On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 8:34 PM -0400, "tom via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Kevin,We do this at Raritan Yacht Club once a year for one of our long distance 
(20 mi) races. We require sign up one day in  advance and figure ahead the 
handicap times for that distance. Pick an easy starting GPS time ( 11:00 hrs or 
similar) and set each boats star accordingly. The race committee assists by 
verbally counting down the last few sec for each start.  Any boat that starts 
prior to their time gets a 5 min penalty for each part of a minute they are 
ocs. The finishes are very interesting.Tom33-1
On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 7:16 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race' before? 
I am curious how you went about it. 
Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
rating. These are our contestants. I figure there will be three starts. 1 for 
the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the 
Pursuit racers. This is the first race in our winter series, which runs till 
March. We thought we might kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your 
input!
Kevin 30-2

___



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!









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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,

Third GTA winter coming up and I have not yet run the red stuff through
windstar's engine.  (IIRC the manual does not mention doing this)   What I
have done is drain the water lock muffler and raw water strainer, remove
the hoses to the water pump, then drain the block through the two valves on
the engine block.  (access under the galley sink)  Blow any water out
though the water pump hose.
Not sure whether that's optimal or not
Anyway, If I were to use the red stuff, (and I may) I would drain
everything first so I could be sure that the antifreeze was not too
diluted.
It really is a good time to look in on the water pump impeller..
I would also check the specific gravity of the coolant to ensure its freeze
point is low enough.  You can get a tester at Crappy tire for this for less
than $10.
Top up the batteries with distilled water.

Dave (we met on pier 7 - whitby)

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2016 20:34:55 + (UTC)
From: <doug.we...@rogers.com>
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F
Message-ID: <1911996305.1436982.1476131695...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

It's my first year with the 2GM20F and it's almost time to winterize it. Is
there anything I need to do other running anti freeze through the fresh
water intake until it comes out the exhaust??
Cheers,Doug
Celtic Knot33-2
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[tom via CnC-List]

Kevin,
We do this at Raritan Yacht Club once a year for one of our long distance
(20 mi) races. We require sign up one day in  advance and figure ahead the
handicap times for that distance. Pick an easy starting GPS time ( 11:00
hrs or similar) and set each boats star accordingly. The race committee
assists by verbally counting down the last few sec for each start.  Any
boat that starts prior to their time gets a 5 min penalty for each part of
a minute they are ocs. The finishes are very interesting.
Tom
33-1

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 7:16 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race'
> 
> before? I am curious how you went about it.
>
> Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each
> boat's rating. These are our contestants
> .
> I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No
> Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the
> first race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might
> kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!
>
> Kevin
> 30-2
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Seeping Depth Sounder

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

If you can back the ring off enough to insert it, butyl tape or a thick
ring of Lanocote would probably make it leak-free for a while.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 10 October 2016 at 16:44, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Pray the thru hull isn't cracked?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 5:21 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I just noticed my depth sounder is seeping small amount of water from the
>> bottom between plywood backing plate and the ring. Anything I can do short
>> of a haul out to fix it until next Spring? Silkaflex? 5200? Really not
>> looking forward to haul out right now...
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Aaron R.
>> Admiral Maggie,
>> 1979 C 30 MK1 #540
>> Annapolis, MD
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Kevin,

I sent you a TOD pursuit start time calculation spreadsheet off list.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race'
> 
> before? I am curious how you went about it.
>
> Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each
> boat's rating. These are our contestants
> .
> I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No
> Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the
> first race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might
> kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!
>
> Kevin
> 30-2
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Kevin,

 

There are a couple ways that you can do this.  At my current club we have a 
pseudo pursuit race, we start the boats at one minute intervals according to 
their PHRF rating and then compute each boat’s TOT corrected time after the 
race.  It’s a lot of work for the RC but ends up with a more fair race.  At my 
former club we had a true pursuit race.  We worked out the length of the course 
and computed the TOD start times for each boat entered.  The slowest boat 
started first and each boat had its designated start time.  The first boat to 
cross the finish line won.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: October-10-16 20:16
To: C List
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Subject: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

 

Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race' 
  
before? I am curious how you went about it. 

 

Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
rating. These are our contestants 

 . I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No 
Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the first 
race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might kick it 
off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!

 

Kevin 

30-2

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Seeping Depth Sounder

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Pray the thru hull isn't cracked?

Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 5:21 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just noticed my depth sounder is seeping small amount of water from the
> bottom between plywood backing plate and the ring. Anything I can do short
> of a haul out to fix it until next Spring? Silkaflex? 5200? Really not
> looking forward to haul out right now...
>
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Indigo via CnC-List]

We do several pursuit races a year at my club. 

Here is how we do it. 

1) rank the entries in PHRF order. If a boat does not have a valid certificate 
we get the rating for that class if boat from the local PHRF database. 

2) Knowing the charted distance of the race, we calculate the number of minutes 
/ seconds owed by all boats to the slowest in the fleet.  

3) Add that time allowance to the race start time (the starting time for the 
slowest boat) and give each boat its own start time  - GPS time - clearly those 
with the same rating will start together. 

4) Sometimes we use an official starting line, other times an honor system with 
a bearing from a fixed government mark. 

5) First boat to the finish line (usually "honor") is the winner. 

If you want to add some fun to the race consider adding "engine" time. In our 
most popular pursuit race, a distance of about 15 miles - two legs from one 
harbor to another with a dog-leg - boats can use their engines for a maximum of 
20 minutes (honor!). Some use it at the start, others reserve it for the end in 
case the wind dies, others to counteract adverse tides.   The trophy is a large 
stuffed soft toy "rat" that is required to be on display at the members house 
from one race to the next!!  We call the race the "Rat Race!!"  It is passed 
from winner to winner at a raft up at the destination!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 10, 2016, at 19:16, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race' 
> before? I am curious how you went about it. 
> 
> Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
> rating. These are our contestants. I figure there will be three starts. 1 for 
> the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the 
> Pursuit racers. This is the first race in our winter series, which runs till 
> March. We thought we might kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for 
> your input!
> 
> Kevin 
> 30-2
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race'

before? I am curious how you went about it.

Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each
boat's rating. These are our contestants
.
I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No
Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the
first race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might
kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!

Kevin
30-2
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Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F

[johnr via CnC-List]

Check with your yard re any heater.  Many will not allow an unattended live 
electrical hook up for stored boats.


John McL
Falcon
C



-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Sent: Mon, Oct 10, 2016 6:25 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F



Are you hauling it out?  If not, you should consider disconnecting the exhaust 
elbow so that the water lift muffler doesn't draw moist air in and out of the 
engine as the boat rocks fore and aft.  Obviously wait till you're done running 
glycol through.
Many people choose to change the oil/filter and tranny fluid.  Some people also 
choose to remove the raw water pump impeller.  Others also take the opportunity 
to change the fuel filter(s).  You can also fog a diesel though there are mixed 
opinions.  The manual actually suggests "roll" the engine once a month by 
pulling the decompression levers and running the starter till the oil pressure 
alarm clears.  This keeps the bearings and rings from getting too dry.
As recently mentioned, I have an immersion heater that I plug in.  200w keeps 
the condensation out and slightly heats the cabin.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Oct 10, 2016 4:36 PM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List"  
wrote:


It's my first year with the 2GM20F and it's almost time to winterize it. Is 
there anything I need to do other running anti freeze through the fresh water 
intake until it comes out the exhaust? 


Cheers,
Doug


Celtic Knot
33-2


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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Seeping Depth Sounder

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

I just noticed my depth sounder is seeping small amount of water from the 
bottom between plywood backing plate and the ring. Anything I can do short of a 
haul out to fix it until next Spring? Silkaflex? 5200? Really not looking 
forward to haul out right now...


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD
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Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Are you hauling it out?  If not, you should consider disconnecting the
exhaust elbow so that the water lift muffler doesn't draw moist air in and
out of the engine as the boat rocks fore and aft.  Obviously wait till
you're done running glycol through.

Many people choose to change the oil/filter and tranny fluid.  Some people
also choose to remove the raw water pump impeller.  Others also take the
opportunity to change the fuel filter(s).  You can also fog a diesel though
there are mixed opinions.  The manual actually suggests "roll" the engine
once a month by pulling the decompression levers and running the starter
till the oil pressure alarm clears.  This keeps the bearings and rings from
getting too dry.

As recently mentioned, I have an immersion heater that I plug in.  200w
keeps the condensation out and slightly heats the cabin.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 10, 2016 4:36 PM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> It's my first year with the 2GM20F and it's almost time to winterize it.
> Is there anything I need to do other running anti freeze through the fresh
> water intake until it comes out the exhaust?
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
> Celtic Knot
> 33-2
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

It's my first year with the 2GM20F and it's almost time to winterize it. Is 
there anything I need to do other running anti freeze through the fresh water 
intake until it comes out the exhaust? 
Cheers,Doug
Celtic Knot33-2___

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Re: Stus-List 35 mK III polars

[Lee via CnC-List]

Hi Howard & Skippy,would you please send me the polars for C 35-3 
@lchris11...@aol.com. Thanks much.Lee   


C c/b 

  Blue Point NY
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Howard and Skippy 
Sent: Thu, Sep 22, 2016 6:33 pm
Subject: Stus-List 35 mK III polars

If anyone is interested, I have the polars for the 35 MK III.
Howard Paul

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