Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I assumed the reason for the offset prop shaft on the 30-1 was so you could 
pull the prop or shaft without the rudder interfering. 

I haven't been backing much with my 30-1 this year because I'm at an end slip 
on a T-shaped dock. I do a U-turn to get in, tie to starboard, and drive 
straight out (except jogging around the POS houseboat in front of me on which 
I've scratched my hull once or twice). And y'all are right about choosing a 
slip with the prevailing wind pushing the boat toward the dock. One time this 
year the wind was pushing me away from the dock, and a guest of mine fell in 
trying to hold the boat to the dock. So anyway I haven't been noticing how much 
prop walk there is on my 30-1. 

At the start of the year I had half a "normal" double slip. I docked stern-to 
so my bow pulpit wouldn't be a hazard to people walking by. What I found it 
easiest to back my 30-1 (with tiller steering) by turning the rudder around 
backwards. That way the water flowed over the rudder the expected way, without 
the "sharp edge" upstream, and it felt much more controllable. 

Best Regards, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Gary Nylander"  
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 9:48:40 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in 

The 30-1's have a shaft which is offset to port. I assume that was for one 
or two reasons. First, to minimize prop walk in forward? And for ease of 
getting the shaft out without dropping the (rather heavy) rudder. 

No fun to back the boat. I start way early and drive it backward slowly and 
then pull it out of gear and drive with the rudder. As was mentioned on an 
earlier post, it looks funny but is effective. My old slip was down a narrow 
channel with the slips on one side and a bulkhead on the other - on the 
bulkhead was a major pedestrian path toward our museum. After many back and 
forth near mishaps and a lot of tourist entertainment, I switched to the 
long backward drive down the channel. 

Gary 

-Original Message- 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 11:18 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in 

I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts. 
I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, 
but when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If 
the prop pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the 
effects of the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done. 
Obviously, others here are experiencing things differently, which I find 
surprising. 

Andy 
C 40 
Peregrine 

Andrew Burton 
61 W Narragansett 
Newport, RI 
USA 02840 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
+401 965-5260 

> 

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Re: Stus-List Shaft play

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Chris,
   This is a serious, but not fatal, problem.  Good advice to mark shaft where it enters coupler, then forward and reverse at dock or mooring.  Observe shaft while doing this if you have a helper.   Then check the mark.  If shaft is pulling out of coupler I recommend that you remove the bolts intended to hold it in coupler.  If they are worn smooth or lack the nipples on end they probably have been working back and forth for some time?  They should be wired in.  Then pull shaft aft out of coupler.  This should be a very very tight fit.  You can do this much in the water without fear.   Look at shaft.  If the detente or dimples where the bolts are intended to seat have elongated or worse you may need to haul and pull shaft for refurbish or replacement.  You must use new bolts if reinstalling, in my opinion.   I went through this this summer.  If detentes are elongated you are wasting your time trying to reinstall new bolts without correcting, trust me.  If necessary you may be able to rotate shaft 90 degrees and drill new detente or dimples.
Bill Walker
Cnc 36
Pentwater, Michigan
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Re: Stus-List Possible bargain C

[Harry Hallgring via CnC-List]

I saw both 40s today, the white one at NEB and the blue one at Pirate's Cove 
that is for sale. Both need work.  The blue one has older paint with a lot of 
print through and chafes.  The bottom looked nice, newly barrier coated.

I took a few pics (only from the ground). Go to Flickr.com and search for 
hhallgring under people.

Harry H.

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 21, 2016, at 3:45 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Martin,
> Andy Burton tells me it is not the boat here in the yard, but another yard on 
> the other side of the island.  Funny coincidence, there is a 40 here that has 
> the side portlights taped over, just like the CL ad mentions!   I intended to 
> go by the boat after work...but now it's raining.  I will swing by tomorrow 
> and see if I can get a few good photos for you.
> 
> Andy,
> if your friend wants, I can help him get photos up on hi CL page...he admits 
> to be having problems??
> 
> Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com
> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 21, 2016, at 03:28 PM, Martin Christopher  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>>> Hi Harry,
>>> 
>>> Am in the market for a C, and interested in receiving pictures and info 
>>> if you have any
>>> 
>>> /J
>>> 
 On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:17 AM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:
 
 There is a C 40 here at NEB with a missing window...quite likely the one 
 listed if anyone wants more info or pictures.
 Harry Hallgring
 hhallgr...@icloud.com
 
> On Oct 21, 2016, at 08:55 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
 
> Listers,
> 
> I have no affiliation with the seller nor do I know anything about this 
> boat, but I stumbled across this Craigslist listing this morning:
> 
> http://southcoast.craigslist.org/boa/5838062124.html
> 
>  
> 
> Even basket case 40’ C don’t generally sell this cheap.
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 
> S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35
> 
> Padanaram, MA
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 3gm

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You referred to a 3GDF.  I'm not familiar with this engine and in fact did
a google search which revealed nothing.  Typo?  If you intended to say 3GMF
then the answer is yes it is a direct replacement, with caveats.  As I
understand it not all of the 3GM engines had the same transmission so check
that the gear ratio and cable arrangement is the same.  Furthermore, the
fresh water cooling will slightly change the seawater intake arrangement
and the exhaust arrangement.

You could just get the valve seals and/or guides fixed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 22, 2016 4:20 PM, "Howard and Skippy via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> After 32 years, my 3GMD is loosing about 1 qt of oil/10 hrs of running.
> It runs great and does not seem to smoke.  I think the seals are weeping
> and causing the oil loss.  Does anyone know if the 3GDF is a direct swap
> for the 3GMD, as "F" is more readily found. Thanks.
> Howard Paul
> Knot Again, 35-3
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Stus-List 3gm

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

After 32 years, my 3GMD is loosing about 1 qt of oil/10 hrs of running.  
It runs great and does not seem to smoke.  I think the seals are weeping 
and causing the oil loss.  Does anyone know if the 3GDF is a direct swap 
for the 3GMD, as "F" is more readily found. Thanks.

Howard Paul
Knot Again, 35-3

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Stus-List Odd barnacle growth

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Cat’s Paw was hauled out 3 days ago and there are clusters of barnacles in 
several places, although most of the hull is virtually clear of growth. One 
cluster is on the thru hull ports for the depth sounder and speedometer (which 
was replaced during the summer with the plug when it stopped working). Is this 
caused by a barnacle-friendly surface of these units? Can the  surface be 
painted with antifouling paint to avoid this? The other picture is growth 
around the inlet and outlet of the washbasin in the head, but in that case not 
just where the holes are but in the vicinity. Any thoughts about what causes 
this and how to avoid it? Here’s the link:  
 https://www.dropbox.com/sh/44pjga1qixliadz/AACVsjFhGwprwuDydjV-yF5Xa?dl=0

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Guys:  I have a couple of experiences with Wet & Forget..First, check their 
website siteyou'll find the concentrated product discussed here in the area 
of power washers and other roof or siding cleaners.I used it on a house 
roof section that had mold, moss, and lichens.2 spraying sessions and left 
alone per directions.mold gone, moss dead Brown and flacking 
off.lichens not so much.However, in the household cleaning section they 
also have a ready you use all surface bath and shower spray.  Same 
expectations.spray it on and leave it and then wash with water the next 
time you shower.That works great as well, so I tried it all over my engine 
compartment; engine, sides, and the floor and engine bed..let it sit for 2 
dayscame back, used a small soft bristle brush to go over everything and 
then hosed it all off with a pressure nozzle...The end result looks brand 
new.. all sides and floor surfaces are sparkling white and engine is new 
Yammer gray lookingI plan to do 2-3 treatments next year.
Almost forgotsame great results in the bilge too. 
The ready shower spray is about 4-5 times the price of the concentrate, 
howeverwell worth the cost.Virtually no work.    Ron C.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/22/16  1:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list CNC 
boat owners  Cc: Chuck S  
Subject: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question 
Anyone have any experience with a product called, "Wet and Forget".  ??It is 
supposed to be enviromentally safe, but kills mold by simply spraying on and 
let it air dry.  Available at Lowes and Home Depot.

I'm interested in treating the ceiling and walls of my boat's cabin, as last 
year it was a real battle with sunny days warming the cabin and cold nights 
making condensation form on the cold decks and windows.  Until the weather 
finally stayed cold, I was wiping down the ceilings and walls every visit.  
I guess I should add those humidity absorbing tubs too.  Any brands better than 
others? 
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

I have never used “wet and forget” but I have tried a product called Concrobium 
which is used in the same way. My experience is that these products are no more 
effective at killing mold than ordinary bleach. The best way to control mold is 
to reduce humidity.___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

I always understood that prop walk was a result of gyroscopic effect just
like on an airplane with a centerline propeller. I understood that it was
much less pronounced going forward because of the location of the propeller
in relationship to the rest of the boat.  In backing up, the rudder is less
effective at controlling the yaw until sufficient water flow is established.

When backing into a slip, we take the line from the piling that will hole
the port bowline, take it to the port aft clear and back up hinging on the
piling (slip on the port side of the boat).  The line configuration keeps
the stern from walking to starboard as my C tends to do.  Once we are
moving backward with sufficient water flow over the rudder, we move the line
forward to the port side bow cleat and complete the docking as usual with
boathook/friendly slip neighbors.

Neil
1982 C
FoxFire

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 11:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

The 30-1's have a shaft which is offset to port. I assume that was for one
or two reasons. First, to minimize prop walk in forward? And for ease of
getting the shaft out without dropping the (rather heavy) rudder.

No fun to back the boat. I start way early and drive it backward slowly and
then pull it out of gear and drive with the rudder. As was mentioned on an
earlier post, it looks funny but is effective. My old slip was down a narrow
channel with the slips on one side and a bulkhead on the other - on the
bulkhead was a major pedestrian path toward our museum. After many back and
forth near mishaps and a lot of tourist entertainment, I switched to the
long backward drive down the channel.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
 I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline,
but when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If
the prop pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the
effects of the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done.
Obviously, others here are experiencing things differently, which I find
surprising.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> 

___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I use two Caframo air dryers with fans and a solar day/night vent. No humidity 
issues. Caveat: Touché is in the water and on shore power year round. 

Used to also set out a third air dryer but found two works. 

My go to product for mold removal is Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach. 

Not familiar with Wet and Forget for prevention. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2016, at 12:43 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Anyone have any experience with a product called, "Wet and Forget".  ??
> It is supposed to be enviromentally safe, but kills mold by simply spraying 
> on and let it air dry.  Available at Lowes and Home Depot.
> 
> I'm interested in treating the ceiling and walls of my boat's cabin, as last 
> year it was a real battle with sunny days warming the cabin and cold nights 
> making condensation form on the cold decks and windows.  Until the weather 
> finally stayed cold, I was wiping down the ceilings and walls every visit.  
> 
> I guess I should add those humidity absorbing tubs too.  Any brands better 
> than others? 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List mold killer product Wet and Forget question

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Anyone have any experience with a product called, "Wet and Forget".  ??
It is supposed to be enviromentally safe, but kills mold by simply spraying on 
and let it air dry.  Available at Lowes and Home Depot.

I'm interested in treating the ceiling and walls of my boat's cabin, as last 
year it was a real battle with sunny days warming the cabin and cold nights 
making condensation form on the cold decks and windows.  Until the weather 
finally stayed cold, I was wiping down the ceilings and walls every visit.  

I guess I should add those humidity absorbing tubs too.  Any brands better than 
others? 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

The boat referred to in my earlier post was a Pearson 28, 1982. AFAIK, it had 
the original engine and transmission and an offset prop.
 
Ideally you are correct, assuming the boat/prop/engine/transmission combo ended 
up with the prop rotation 'walk' making up for the offset.
 
In my case, it was not for some reason and from a dead stop, engaging the 
engine in reverse delivered a strong force to either port or starboard--can't 
remember which. It acted like I was using a stern thruster! Once I gained some 
water flow over the rudder, I could compensate for this force--but I had to be 
moving at a few knots. And as long as I kept her moving with short burst of 
thrust, I could control her direction.

OTOH, maneuvering in close quarters in reverse was impossible--thus my 
preference for stern to docking In reverse and subsequently bow out leaving any 
slip. 

Perhaps the term prop walk is incorrect--actually I should have called it prop 
offset.

Charlie Nelson
C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom


 
 
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Sent: Sat, Oct 22, 2016 11:18 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
 I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, but 
when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If the prop 
pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the effects of 
the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done. Obviously, 
others here are experiencing things differently, which I find surprising.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The 30-1's have a shaft which is offset to port. I assume that was for one
or two reasons. First, to minimize prop walk in forward? And for ease of
getting the shaft out without dropping the (rather heavy) rudder.

No fun to back the boat. I start way early and drive it backward slowly and
then pull it out of gear and drive with the rudder. As was mentioned on an
earlier post, it looks funny but is effective. My old slip was down a narrow
channel with the slips on one side and a bulkhead on the other - on the
bulkhead was a major pedestrian path toward our museum. After many back and
forth near mishaps and a lot of tourist entertainment, I switched to the
long backward drive down the channel.

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2016 11:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
 I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline,
but when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If
the prop pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the
effects of the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done.
Obviously, others here are experiencing things differently, which I find
surprising.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> 

___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Shaft Play

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I, too, have a 3gmf.  When I had transmission problems (transmission not
fully engaging, and I had to go  to reverse and then forward) I had to add
a shim inside the transmission.  That corrected the transmission problem of
not engaging properly, which was caused by the "in and out" play.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Hi all,
When the dive service cleaned my hull last week, the diver informed me of
some in-out play in the shaft. I have a 35-3 with the 3gmf and a dripless
seal.
My question is what are the common causes for this and is some play normal
or am I facing a potentially catastrophic problem.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

Kris O'Brien
S/V Syzygy
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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
 I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, but 
when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If the prop 
pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the effects of 
the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done. Obviously, 
others here are experiencing things differently, which I find surprising.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Shaft play

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

In and Out!?  You could be getting ready to lose your prop or shaft.  A
lost shaft could result in a 1" hole allowing gushing water in your boat.

Check what you can while in the water from in the boat.  Try to recreate
the "play".  Check for loose coupling/nuts.

I hope and can only imagine that what the diver actually meant was "side to
side play".  This is relatively common and is most likely caused by a worn
cutlass bearing.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 22, 2016 10:02 AM, "Kris O'Brien via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi all,
> When the dive service cleaned my hull last week, the diver informed me of
> some in-out play in the shaft. I have a 35-3 with the 3gmf and a dripless
> seal.
> My question is what are the common causes for this and is some play normal
> or am I facing a potentially catastrophic problem.
> Any advice is greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
>
> Kris O'Brien
> S/V Syzygy
>
> California Substrates
>
>
> 818-300-9898
> skype: coldkris
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Shaft play

[Kris O'Brien via CnC-List]

Hi all,
When the dive service cleaned my hull last week, the diver informed me of some 
in-out play in the shaft. I have a 35-3 with the 3gmf and a dripless seal. 
My question is what are the common causes for this and is some play normal or 
am I facing a potentially catastrophic problem. 
Any advice is greatly appreciated. 
Thanks,

Kris O'Brien
S/V Syzygy

California Substrates


818-300-9898
skype: coldkris

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

+1 for backing into a slip! 


I do it all the time facing aft but with the wheel behind me. It keeps me much 
closer to the 'action' as the stern glides in pretty much as Chuck describes 
below. I especially like the ability to stop her with a shift to forward and a 
burst of power--that is unlikely to happen as forcefully and as directly when 
you shift into reverse and do it.


I did the same with my former boat whose offset prop contributed to tremendous 
walk to port in reverse. I just started my maneuvers earlier in open water and 
avoided using reverse at all in close quarters. If I failed on my first try 
with that boat, I repeated the process (returning to open water) to start over. 


I got a lot of laughs from some dock masters as they watched me come in in 
reverse from a quarter mile away--but when they saw me nail the slip with 
usually no assistance, they 'got it'.


My current boat has a centered prop so the prop walk is minor but I still 
prefer to get going in reverse in open water.


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Sent: Fri, Oct 21, 2016 8:58 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in




I'm lucky to have gotten a very good slip.  It's a goofy slip no one else 
wanted, with the dock on an angle, the two rear piling are on an angle. There 
is a pair of bow piling, 30 feet out from the nearest rear one and another pair 
another 20 feet out.  The previous boat was a 50 footer.  Everyone backs in at 
my marina cause the finger docks are short and it's the only way on and off the 
boat.  The piling spacing allows me to lay my boat against two piling most of 
the time.  But the angled dock means I must lay my boat's stern on one piling.  
If I go in too far, the bow can swing past the forward piling and into my 
neighbor's boat, so I'm careful not to do that.


I learned to back in effortlessly solo using short pulses of power.   I'm sure 
others use this method.  I approach the marina bow first with my engine at idle 
and shift to neutral and try to coast to a position where I line up the boat 
well out from the slip, like twoo boat lengths, and come to a full stop, 
Sometimes I use reverse to stop the boat, then I walk around in front of the 
wheel so I'm facing aft, the wheel and the direction of travel.  Now I have a 
great view of the slip and key reference points; the rudder head and backstay 
mark my boat's  centerline; the stern rails mark the sides of the boat.  I 
center the wheel, marked with white tape, and give a short burst of power to 
start the boat moving backward.  Once it's moving backward toward the slip, I 
shift to neutral and steer to keep the boat aiming always for the centerline of 
the slip.  The engine is idling and I steer and operate the shifter only, into 
reverse to keep her moving slow.  I find the bow follows the keel and the keel 
follows the rudder, and I come into my slip with the engine at idle, then shift 
to forward for a short burst to stop my boat so the stern quarter can rest 
against the rear piling and I can reach the landlubber line between pilings to 
grab my springline and tie it to a midship cleat.  One more dockline and she's 
safely in the slip.  Two lines are all that's needed if you get the right two.  
Then I grab the boat hook and fetch all the rest till I have 6 lines securing 
the boat.   


This method requires you to mark the wheel to center the rudder, and mark the 
docklines so the length is the same each time.  I use red and green tape to 
mark the docklines, but a sharpie would work as well.


Why back in?  I used to bow in to the dock for privacy, but if the bow gets 
blown off the course, there is no way to check it without a bow thruster.  You 
really have more control backing in.  You're closer to the end of the boat as 
it approaches the dock and have easier judgement and better control of the 
engine and the bow is less suceptable to crosswinds this way.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



On October 21, 2016 at 9:17 AM Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I single hand a lot and prefer the slip on my port. I come in bow first so I 
pull towards the slip when i go into reverse to stop the boat (as I'm returning 
to the slip.) It is a slight hassle departing, but i just give the stern a bit 
of a push off as I step aboard.
I also made sure that i picked a slip that faces into the prevailing 
wind...this makes docking easier if you ever need to sail into your slip. I 
just turn into the slip and the wind stops me.
I agree with a previous lister that you want to avoid slips with the prevailing 
wind pushing you off the slip. This situation causes the most problems at my 
marina, even for boats with lots of crew.
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the 

Re: Stus-List Masthead sheave replacement

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 on that. Not a good idea to go up the mast when on the hard. The stability 
of the boat is quite limited with only the jack stands or the cradle pads 
support her laterally. The mast itself is an issue. Then you would be adding 
about 80-100 kg at the very top of it (the longest arm possible). Not to 
mention that you plan to replace the halyard sheaves, which you might be using 
to get there in the first place.

Marek


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.

 Original message 
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
Date: 10/22/16 03:28 (GMT+01:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheave replacement

Barbara,

You may want to give some thought about going up the mast when the boat is on 
jack stands. Most yards that I know of strictly forbid it.

Dave
C 37

Sent from my iPad






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Joel
301 541 8551
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2016 10:43:37 -0400
From: Steve Thomas >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations
Message-ID: 
<20161013104337.XLJQJ.5573.root@toroondcmxzfep02>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8


You should talk to Doyle Boston Sailmakers in Sarnia. They have done a lot of 
work for me over the years, including re-cutting and re-sizing, as well as a 
brand  new Dacron genoa. Not the cheapest option for new sails, but they are 
the go-to guys for the racers around here and they just might be able to 
breathe some new life into your baffed out old main. Full battens in a main can 
work wonders in light air. Or they might not, but they will tell you if you 
take the sail there. They are located close to the Bluewater Bridge and the 
Sarnia Yacht Club.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Dave S via CnC-List > 
wrote:
Just received the results from the fall check-up and the local sail
loft has diagnosed Windstar's ('85 33-2) mainsail as "beyond
expired".  Cue the Monty Python...

The current main has two sets of reef points, (cringle at the leech and and
ring-on-webbing-straps at the luff.)
No telltales other than streamers off the leech.
IIRC there may be a leech line.
4 partial battens battens.
There are two cringles at the clew, one above the other, and what I believe
is called a "shelf" of lighter weight cloth along the foot.  Have never
used this out of ignorance, but perhaps I should.
it has a rope foot, slides on the luff.

I will have Rolly Tasker in Thailand quote, as well as UK sails here in
Toronto.


I value the 33-2's performance but most of my sailing is recreational
sailing here on Lake Ontario.  Would like to distance race but not looking
to be ultra-competitive at the top level.  Don't want to buy another
Main for this boat in the next decade.

Any thoughts or recommendations on a replacement, or comments on sail
lofts?  Many thanks!

Dave
Windstar 33-2




--

Message: 4
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2016 10:59:23 -0400
From: "Martin Kane" >
To: >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations
Message-ID: 
<003001d22562$62464200$26d2c600$@sympatico.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Dave

Check out Precision Sails in Victoria BC. They have a great on-line site. Sails 
are made Asia somewhere but inspected and shipped from BC.  I got a 135 and 
asym from them this year. Very happy with the product and price.



Martin

C 29-2 Recalculating

MCC Toronto



From: Dave S [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2016 8:56 AM
To: C Stus List >
Subject: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations



Just received the results from the fall check-up and the local sail loft has 
diagnosed Windstar's ('85 33-2) mainsail as "beyond expired".  Cue the Monty 
Python...



The current main has two sets of reef points, (cringle at the leech and and 
ring-on-webbing-straps at the luff.)

No telltales other than streamers off the leech.

IIRC there may be a leech line.

4 partial battens battens.

There are two cringles at the clew, one above the other, and what I believe is 
called a "shelf" of lighter weight cloth along the foot.  Have never 

Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations - winter reading

[Dave via CnC-List]

Getting close to a mainsail decision and will post more before long - very much 
in line with the various pieces of advice I received from fellow listers.   I 
will summarize all of that soon.

   Kevin was dead on - the blog itself is a wealth of info, well written, very 
relevant etc, however I also noticed that the blogger (Brian Hancock) offers a 
"free gift" for becoming a subscriber.  So, I took the bait, and the gift 
turned out to be the e-book Kevin refers to.Kevin, you mention that the 
book may be outdated with respect to fabric, and maybe so, but for many "Dacron 
grade" sailors like me this may not matter much.   I found the book to be very 
relevant, and like the blog, well written.  Timely for me, but a solid, 
comprehensive  winter read on the subject, and for most here I think, worth 
many times the price.   ;-)

Dave.  33-2 Windstar.





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2016 15:55:22 +
From: Kevin Driscoll 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mainsail replacement considerations
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

If I were buying a sail right now I would be reading everything on Brian
Hancock's blog about lofts, cuts, and fiber. You can find it here.
 This guy is
a professional and up on the latest developments in fiber technology, which
is valuable since it is changing every season. He also has a book *Maximum
Sail Power* which may be a little dated in the fiber department, but the
fundamentals are still there.

>snip<

KD
30-2

Sent from my iPad___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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