Re: Stus-List Good news
Oh, it's a certainly a cruising dock given its shoal keel. Think it phrf's around 4,350 Sent from my iPad > On Nov 8, 2016, at 9:14 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List >wrote: > > > Hi John, > > Good news indeed. What's the local rating for that dock, racing or cruising > model? > > Cheers, Russ > Sweet 35 mk-1 > > At 03:37 PM 08/11/2016, you wrote: >> So it looks like I just bought a 35' dock on the lower Hudson. Building my >> very own little condo empire. >> >> John >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Good news
Hi John, Good news indeed. What's the local rating for that dock, racing or cruising model? Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 03:37 PM 08/11/2016, you wrote: So it looks like I just bought a 35' dock on the lower Hudson. Building my very own little condo empire. John Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair
I picked up a Skipper ll on EBAY for a couple hundred bucks, works fine, then i found a meter bundled with a laser heat sensor at Costco for around 40. I don't remember where that one is, though! Bill Coleman Original message From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-ListDate: 11/8/16 16:37 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Kevin Driscoll Subject: Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair While we are on the topic, could anyone recommend a good moisture meter for personal use? On Tue, Nov 8, 2016 at 12:38 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: I had a surveyor that in addition to the normal moisture meter used an infrared camera. Temperature variances could show or confirm all types internal inconsistencies. It was on the pricey side of the survey spectrum but provided me a little extra peace of mind. ~$800. Dave at coast2coast marine surveys. You might also consider getting a IR camera attachment for yourself. In addition to water ingress you can see electrical problems like high resistance/corroded connections and engine problems like belt misalignments. Christmas is coming. ~$200. FLIR ONE Thermal Imager for Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5PRY52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mBJiybVJT2J45 Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD On Tue, Nov 8, 2016, 9:24 AM Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote: Hey all, A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture readings on the port side under the genoa track. I would do this repair myself as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting I leave this job to a very experienced professional. In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the moist core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion base and genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid epoxy. Then finish the job nicely. Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this? Thanks in advance, Ryan (Former 30mki owner) Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Good news
So it looks like I just bought a 35' dock on the lower Hudson. Building my very own little condo empire. John Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair
While we are on the topic, could anyone recommend a good moisture meter for personal use? On Tue, Nov 8, 2016 at 12:38 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I had a surveyor that in addition to the normal moisture meter used an > infrared camera. Temperature variances could show or confirm all types > internal inconsistencies. It was on the pricey side of the survey spectrum > but provided me a little extra peace of mind. ~$800. > > Dave at coast2coast marine surveys. > > You might also consider getting a IR camera attachment for yourself. In > addition to water ingress you can see electrical problems like high > resistance/corroded connections and engine problems like belt > misalignments. Christmas is coming. ~$200. > > FLIR ONE Thermal Imager for Android > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5PRY52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mBJiybVJT2J45 > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > On Tue, Nov 8, 2016, 9:24 AM Ryan Doyle via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hey all, > > A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture > readings on the port side under the genoa track. I would do this repair > myself as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting > I leave this job to a very experienced professional. > > In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the > moist core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion > base and genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid > epoxy. Then finish the job nicely. > > Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this? > > Thanks in advance, > Ryan > > (Former 30mki owner) > > > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair
Rob and Petar, Thanks so much for the insight. It sounds like I have a decision to make when I get the survey back and can see exactly what the moisture readings are. It's a Morgan 382, so I'm actually not even sure if it's balsa or foam coring. Thanks again Ryan ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair
I second the opinion that a simple moisture meter is insufficient to dictate the severity of decay and extent of repair . The readily accepted method of sealing penetrations is to drill a hole for your fastener 1/8" to 1/4" larger than the circumference of the fastener. Then use a bent nail to dig out the core from between the fiberglass skins. Plug the inner hole and then inject thickened epoxy. Once cured, you drill the proper sized hole for you fastener. If you remove the fittings near the high moisture areas AND you can dig out all of the rotted (black) core, then I would say you are good to go. It's frustrating to destroy a perfectly good looking deck chasing core rot. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 8, 2016 10:51 AM, "Robert Mazza via CnC-List"wrote: > Ryan, > > The first thing to do is remove the track and determine the type of core > in the deck. If a C I expect it is balsa. If that is the case, then > determine if the core has decayed. That is, is it brown mush. If not, and > the core is still pristine, but has a high moisture content, you may be > better off leaving it in place and "potting" the fastener holes to prevent > the entry of water. Water in most likely entering the balsa through the > fasteners and migrating through the kerf system (the cuts in the core to > make it flexible). > > Balsa core that merely has a high moisture content, that is up to 20%, > still has very high physical properties. Remember that balsa starts with a > moisture content of 12% at which it has the highest physical properties. If > you cut off the source of the water by "potting" the holes, the moisture in > the core will gradually dissipate, and without access to oxygen it will not > decay. > > I've seen too many boats undergo expensive and damaging repairs of balsa > with merely high moisture content, but no decay. I was with Baltek Corp for > eight years and we did a lot of research on the properties of "wet" core. > Balsa will only absorb moisture to the moisture saturation point, which if > memory serves me correct is about 26%, at which point the physical > properties stabilize at about 80% of the original properties in shear and > compression. Since balsa has substantially higher shear and compression > properties than foam cores traditionally used in decks, it is more than > strong enough for the application. However, the key is decay. All decayed > core must, of course, be removed. > > Just something to think about before you consider major surgery. > > Rob Mazza > > On Tue, Nov 8, 2016 at 9:21 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hey all, >> >> A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture >> readings on the port side under the genoa track. I would do this repair >> myself as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting >> I leave this job to a very experienced professional. >> >> In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the >> moist core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion >> base and genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid >> epoxy. Then finish the job nicely. >> >> Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this? >> >> Thanks in advance, >> Ryan >> >> (Former 30mki owner) >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair (Joel Aronson)
Ryan, My boat will be at Osprey most of the winter for painting and a bottom job. They did the bottom of my C when I bought her. Joel On Tue, Nov 8, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Joel and Josh, > > Awesome! Thank you both very much. I'll be calling both for a quote. > > Regards, > Ryan > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair (Joel Aronson)
Joel and Josh, Awesome! Thank you both very much. I'll be calling both for a quote. Regards, Ryan ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Antenna cable
Joel — I’d suggest LMR-400 low-loss cable. The Times Microwave cable and EZ-400 UM solderless connectors are top-notch and work great; but you need the correct crimper die for the LMR-400 ferrules. This place will make up cables (to MIL-SPEC) for you: https://www.amazon.com/LMR-400-Times-Microwave-Connectors-Antenna/dp/B005K1AYCI/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8=1478623790=8-2-fkmr0=times+microwave+lmd-400 — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Nov 8, 2016, at 10:32 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List >wrote: > > All, > > Only 3 weeks until the rig is pulled. Now I need coax for the VHF. > > Which wire and connectors do I buy? RG-8? RG-213? Do I get a cable that is > pre-made and cut off one connector if I need to in order to get the wire down > the mast? > > Thanks! > > -- > Joel > 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Antenna cable
Personally, I'd go for RG8X or RG213. True, the 213 has less loss but I think you'll still be OK with the RG8X. Buy a cable with one factory end. Put that end at the masthead. Install it with a drip loop and a grommet. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Nov 8, 2016 at 10:32 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > All, > > Only 3 weeks until the rig is pulled. Now I need coax for the VHF. > > Which wire and connectors do I buy? RG-8? RG-213? Do I get a cable that > is pre-made and cut off one connector if I need to in order to get the wire > down the mast? > > Thanks! > > -- > Joel > 301 541 8551 > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Antenna cable
All, Only 3 weeks until the rig is pulled. Now I need coax for the VHF. Which wire and connectors do I buy? RG-8? RG-213? Do I get a cable that is pre-made and cut off one connector if I need to in order to get the wire down the mast? Thanks! -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair
Elevated moisture or rotted balsa? See if the pro will agree to use core other than balsa. Something not susceptible to water ingress and rot. Like Coosa board or Air-X closed cell foam. The issue with at least my model C is: Deck does not drain well, loaded track works so mo natter how you bed it, water will get in, and you have balsa inside. It’s a recipe for disaster. Even if you replace with balsa, and bed it properly, it will rot again. I guess you could not go sailing then the water will stay out. Here is the thread of my repair with some photos. I went with Coosa board. A lot of late nights but it came out great and it will never have to be done again. http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/replacing-wet-balsa-core-160820.html Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C 38MkII On the hard at Stanleys in barrington From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2016 10:29 AM To: C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair Steve Uthoff at Annapolis Fiberglass and GelCoat rebuilt my rudder. He we very knowledgeable and from my ignorant perspective did things right. If it makes any difference you can see the pictures he took while doing the job. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 8, 2016 9:24 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"wrote: Hey all, A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture readings on the port side under the genoa track. I would do this repair myself as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting I leave this job to a very experienced professional. In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the moist core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion base and genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid epoxy. Then finish the job nicely. Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this? Thanks in advance, Ryan (Former 30mki owner) Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair
Steve Uthoff at Annapolis Fiberglass and GelCoat rebuilt my rudder. He we very knowledgeable and from my ignorant perspective did things right. If it makes any difference you can see the pictures he took while doing the job. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 8, 2016 9:24 AM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"wrote: > Hey all, > > A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture > readings on the port side under the genoa track. I would do this repair > myself as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting > I leave this job to a very experienced professional. > > In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the > moist core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion > base and genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid > epoxy. Then finish the job nicely. > > Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this? > > Thanks in advance, > Ryan > > (Former 30mki owner) > > > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair
Osprey Marine at Herrington Harbor North Joel On Tue, Nov 8, 2016 at 9:21 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hey all, > > A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture > readings on the port side under the genoa track. I would do this repair > myself as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting > I leave this job to a very experienced professional. > > In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the > moist core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion > base and genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid > epoxy. Then finish the job nicely. > > Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this? > > Thanks in advance, > Ryan > > (Former 30mki owner) > > > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Baltimore/Annapolis wet deck repair
Hey all, A survey on a boat we are looking to buy turned up some elevated moisture readings on the port side under the genoa track. I would do this repair myself as I understand what needs to be done, however my wife is insisting I leave this job to a very experienced professional. In the affected area I need someone to remove the deck skin, remove the moist core, and replace the core in a 2'x6' area except under the stanchion base and genoa track where I would like it to be replaced with solid epoxy. Then finish the job nicely. Does anyone have any recommendations for work like this? Thanks in advance, Ryan (Former 30mki owner) Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!