Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Just a question but couldn't a compression test be done to rule out a head 
gasket issue? 
Len

Sent from my mobile device. 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks Jerry, 
An electric motor would be great for racing but a retrofit like that is far 
from within my budget these days. I'll get by with the existing setup as long 
as I can. 

Brent.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:01 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If water is getting into cylinder that could explain the hard start.  When 
> engine heats up water is turned to steam and engine will run but with steam 
> in exhaust.  If water is getting into crank case you will see it in dip stick 
> as honey like clumps.   You can often hear a blown gasket as well.  Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:29 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just 
>> a wee single cylinder unit. 
>> 
>> Brent
>> 27-5
>> Wild Rover
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a 
 coolant passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the 
 exhaust.  If the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil 
 return, then you would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the 
 coolant level carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you 
 need to find where it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, 
 then probably what you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
 
 Gary
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
> gasket were blown?
> 
> Brent
> 27-5
> Wild Rover. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, 
>> such as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a 
>> sweet smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level 
>> going down, with no apparent leak?
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
>>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
>>> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should 
>>> be a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a 
>>> test you should do before you send it to a shop.
>>> 
>>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 
>>> halves of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all 
>>> the pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
>>> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
>>> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
>>> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came 
>>> apart.  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
>>> 
>>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean 
>>> the precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with 
>>> carbon which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll 
>>> probably want to replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  
>>> There's also a lead gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the 
>>> injector and the precombustion chamber.
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>>> Solomons, MD 
>>> 
 On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
  wrote:
 Greetings all.
 
 The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The 
 usual complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I 
 replaced the filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old 
 fuel and clean the tank.
 But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the 
 injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm 
 planning to extract and clean it or replace it.
 Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
 
 

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

If water is getting into cylinder that could explain the hard start.  When 
engine heats up water is turned to steam and engine will run but with steam in 
exhaust.  If water is getting into crank case you will see it in dip stick as 
honey like clumps.   You can often hear a blown gasket as well.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:29 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just 
> a wee single cylinder unit. 
> 
> Brent
> 27-5
> Wild Rover
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant 
>>> passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If 
>>> the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you 
>>> would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level 
>>> carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where 
>>> it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what 
>>> you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
 On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
 it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
 gasket were blown?
 
 Brent
 27-5
 Wild Rover. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such 
> as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet 
> smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going 
> down, with no apparent leak?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
>> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be 
>> a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test 
>> you should do before you send it to a shop.
>> 
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves 
>> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the 
>> pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
>> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
>> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
>> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart. 
>>  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
>> 
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean 
>> the precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with 
>> carbon which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll 
>> probably want to replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  
>> There's also a lead gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the 
>> injector and the precombustion chamber.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Greetings all.
>>> 
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The 
>>> usual complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced 
>>> the filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and 
>>> clean the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the 
>>> injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm 
>>> planning to extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly 

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just a 
wee single cylinder unit. 

Brent
27-5
Wild Rover

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant 
>> passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If 
>> the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you 
>> would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level 
>> carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where 
>> it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what you 
>> are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
>>> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
>>> gasket were blown?
>>> 
>>> Brent
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such 
 as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet 
 smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going 
 down, with no apparent leak?
 
 Gary
 S/V Kaylarah
 '90 C 37+
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be 
> a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test 
> you should do before you send it to a shop.
> 
> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves 
> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the 
> pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  
> Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
> 
> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon 
> which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want 
> to replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a 
> lead gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the 
> precombustion chamber.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> Greetings all.
>> 
>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>> the tank.
>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the 
>> injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm 
>> planning to extract and clean it or replace it.
>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Brent Driedger
>> 27-5
>> Wild Rover
>> Lake Winnipeg.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

1GM is raw water cooled.  Jerry J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 6:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as 
> a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
> you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with 
> no apparent leak?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect 
>> to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  
>> Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone 
>> pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before 
>> you send it to a shop.
>> 
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of 
>> the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
>> something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have 
>> to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood 
>> scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you 
>> satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray 
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>> 
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
>> the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and 
>> a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion 
>> chamber.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Greetings all.
>>> 
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector 
>>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to 
>>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Brent, there might be a terminology problem here.

 

Fresh water cooling: It is a closed system with antifreeze in it pumping 
through the block and a heat exchanger.  Raw water (fresh or salt) pumps 
through the heat exchanger too then is mixed with the exhaust and out of the 
boat

Raw water cooling: It draws cooling water (fresh or salt) and pumps it through 
the block then it is mixed with the exhaust and out of the boat.

 

By your description I think you have a raw water system.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: April-01-17 20:01
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brent Driedger
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

 

The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping it's 
not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the gasket were 
blown?

 

Brent

27-5

Wild Rover. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as a 
blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with no 
apparent leak?

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect to 
the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  Pop, 
pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone pattern, 
equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before you send it to 
a shop.

 

If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of the 
injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have to 
be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood scraper 
can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you satisfied, 
reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.

 

While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and a 
copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion chamber.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Yanmar 3HM35F

Solomons, MD 

 

On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Greetings all.

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank.
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it.
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant
passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If
the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you
would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level
carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where
it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what
you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping
> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the
> gasket were blown?
>
> Brent
> 27-5
> Wild Rover.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such
> as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet
> smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going
> down, with no apparent leak?
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down,
>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts
>> to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean,
>> wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should
>> do before you send it to a shop.
>>
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves
>> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces
>> with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You
>> have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A
>> hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When
>> you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>>
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to
>> replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead
>> gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the
>> precombustion chamber.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings all.
>>>
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the
>>> injector spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning
>>> to extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping it's 
not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the gasket were 
blown?

Brent
27-5
Wild Rover. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as 
> a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
> you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with 
> no apparent leak?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect 
>> to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  
>> Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone 
>> pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before 
>> you send it to a shop.
>> 
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of 
>> the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
>> something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have 
>> to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood 
>> scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you 
>> satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray 
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>> 
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
>> the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and 
>> a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion 
>> chamber.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Greetings all.
>>> 
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector 
>>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to 
>>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such
as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet
smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going
down, with no apparent leak?

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down,
> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts
> to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean,
> wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should
> do before you send it to a shop.
>
> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves
> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces
> with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You
> have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A
> hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When
> you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray
> pattern.  Re-install.
>
> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the
> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which
> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to
> replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead
> gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the
> precombustion chamber.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Greetings all.
>>
>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual
>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the
>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean
>> the tank.
>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector
>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to
>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>
>> Brent Driedger
>> 27-5
>> Wild Rover
>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect
to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.
Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone
pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before
you send it to a shop.

If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of
the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces
with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You
have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A
hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When
you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray
pattern.  Re-install.

While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the
precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which
will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to
replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead
gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the
precombustion chamber.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Yanmar 3HM35F
Solomons, MD

On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Greetings all.
>
> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual
> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the
> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean
> the tank.
> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector
> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to
> extract and clean it or replace it.
> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Wild Rover
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Depth sounder installation

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi gang,

Last fall I wrote about removing my depth sounder as water was leaking in.  It 
was a traditional external depth sounder with a mushroom head.  It was held in 
place with a locking nut that screwed down against a wood backing block. 

I dug out the rotten wood and ground down all the glass that had been used to 
hold it in place. The installation was really overkill.  I wasn't able to 
remove the transducer without stripping the threads, so I bought a new one.

I now have a smooth, pretty flat surface around the transducer hole. I bought 
the same transducer (Raymarine, i.e. Airmar,)

So here are my questions:

1. I have made up a fibreglass backing block, but do I really need a backing 
block given that there really aren't any stresses on the transducer?  It's not 
like a through-hull where you are opening and closing a valve.

2. The new transducer came with a rubber washer that sits on the inside and the 
locking nut is supposed to be hand tightened down onto it. Is this really a 
good idea? Won't the rubber shrink a bit with age?

3. For my sealant, is there any difference between 3M 4200 and Sikaflex 291 
sealant/adhesive? I'm not sure if the Sikaflex is suitable for underwater 
applications. 

My current thought is to use the backing plate given that I've made it up 
already and skip rubber washer.

Thanks,

Mike
Atacama. 33mkii
Toronto  

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I took two pieces of Plexiglas (1" x 2") and stuck them together with 3M
4991 VHB tape.  No one could peel them apart without tools.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:11 PM, billbruce--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/
>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/
  
 


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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   Found a Sail Magazine article recommended 4991 for what it's worth. Perhaps they were looking for the extra material thickness of the 4991.
   
   Bill Bruce
   Landfall 38
  
 


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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

The problem with 4941 is the thickness at 0.045", which is one half the
thickness of 4991.  It won't deal with surface irregularities as well.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 3:44 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW, I contacted 3M after this discussion started, and the rep
> recommended 4941 for this application.
>
> *From:* svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 01, 2017 2:49 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* svpegasus38 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Port replacement
>
> I used the 4991 because it was thicker than others. Allows better
> expansion of the port lights.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus
> Lf38
>
>  Original message 
> From: billbruce--- via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/1/17 06:27 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: billbr...@ns.sympatico.ca
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Port replacement
>
> What kind of 3m tape is it?
>
> Bill Bruce
> Landfall 38
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, I contacted 3M after this discussion started, and the rep recommended 
4941 for this application. 

From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: svpegasus38 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Port replacement

I used the 4991 because it was thicker than others. Allows better expansion of 
the port lights. 



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy 
POYC 
Pegasus 
Lf38 

 Original message 
From: billbruce--- via CnC-List  
Date: 4/1/17 06:27 (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: billbr...@ns.sympatico.ca 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Port replacement 

What kind of 3m tape is it? 

Bill Bruce 
Landfall 38 



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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I used the 4991 because it was thicker than others. Allows better expansion of 
the port lights. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: billbruce--- via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/1/17  06:27  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: billbr...@ns.sympatico.ca Subject: Re: Stus-List Port 
replacement 

 
  
   What kind of 3m tape is it?
   

   
Bill Bruce
   
Landfall 38
  
 
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Stus-List Looking to sell Pegasus

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Hi allI am seroiseriouslythinking of selling Pegasus. Not sure yet what she is 
worth. Many upgrades and work has been done over the past 10 years I have had 
her. Some of the items done are, new cruising 3reef main, autopilot, wind 
instruments, dodger and bimini, 2 140watt solar panels, furnace. A friend is 
selling his landfall 39 and I am thinking of upgrading. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 ___

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Re: Stus-List Rudder picture/drawing for 37

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 

 Jon I am sending Rudder spec drawing off line because of limitations for 
attachments on the list; if anyone else in interested let me know and I'll send 
rudder specs 


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Jon Tasker., via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jon Tasker., 
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 10:21 am
Subject: Stus-List Rudder picture/drawing for 37

I have just let a bucket full of water out of my rudder. I am told I need to 
drill an inspection whole to see if the the rudder post is still secured. Where 
to drill the whole is the key question. Does any one have a picture/drawing of 
the post by itself with the extensions off the post into the rudder.
Jon Tasker 
Ghost Rider C 37

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Rudder picture/drawing for 37

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

The rudder of my 34 used to fill with water every season.  I was told this was 
pretty common for rudder posts to leak and frequently people did not even know. 
 Every year, when the boat was hauled, I drilled a hole upward from the bottom 
with a long drill bit (about 8” long and about 1/8" diameter.  The metal frame 
is primarily around the periphery so drilling upward in the center of the 
bottom did not hit anything metal.  The bit had to be long enough to get above 
the fill, but when you get far enough, water will start coming out.   I plugged 
the hole with Boatlife caulk in the spring.  I never could get the leak to 
stop, but stopped worrying about it.  Dave

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 11:14 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I wonder if you can make rudder syrup out of that.
> 
> -Original Message- From: Jon Tasker., via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 10:20 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jon Tasker.,
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder picture/drawing for 37
> 
> I have just let a bucket full of water out of my rudder. I am told I need to 
> drill an inspection whole to see if the the rudder post is still secured. 
> Where to drill the whole is the key question. Does any one have a 
> picture/drawing of the post by itself with the extensions off the post into 
> the rudder.
> Jon Tasker
> Ghost Rider C 37
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I think the main problem was poor helming.  The helmsman is continually 
throwing the tiller over trying to tack when he has no speed. At one point he 
gets the genoa pulling and instead of falling off and getting some speed, he 
immediately tries to tack, knowing that if he doesn’t make it he is in real 
trouble.  Dave
  
> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> At one point early on when the boat is further out it looks like they are 
> motoring. 
> 
> They could have anchored to buy time to fix their mainsail, sort things out, 
> and wait for a tow, but that needed to be set well outside before they 
> steered themselves into the breaker zone.  
> 
>  
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>> On March 31, 2017 at 4:38 PM Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> This is the harbour they were trying to get out of or into. One report I 
>> read said they were on their way out.
>> 
>> The boat went under the pier into the triangle area.
>> 
>> Really scary stuff.
>> 
>> https://goo.gl/maps/xpKnuNA4GZw 
>> 
>> On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 4:19 PM, RANDY via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> Watching the "full version" first minute or two, looks like the main's luff 
>> was separated from the mast, and the crew was busy gathering up the main and 
>> trying to re-feed its luff.  He might have been able to run downwind on 
>> starboard tack under jib alone (don't know where that would have led), but 
>> then he gybed to port and couldn't make enough way to avoid the pier or not 
>> get tripped.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> 
>> From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" > >
>> To: "CnClist" >
>> Cc: "Dennis" >
>> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:44:21 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night
>> 
>> 
>> Here's a nice video of it.
>> 
>> https://youtu.be/Isufp-6fudo 
>> 
>> They looked a bit casual right before the wave.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 12:55 PM, RANDY via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash 
>> 
>> 
>> Looks like a Capri 18.
>> 
>> Done right:
>> 1. All crew wearing PFDs.
>> 2. Capsized close to beach, easing rescue.
>> 
>> Mistakes?
>> 1. Only had the jib up?  Hard to head up under jib alone.
>> 2. No auxiliary power?
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> (from SoCal, where it is windy this weekend)
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Rudder picture/drawing for 37

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I wonder if you can make rudder syrup out of that.

-Original Message- 
From: Jon Tasker., via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 10:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jon Tasker.,
Subject: Stus-List Rudder picture/drawing for 37

I have just let a bucket full of water out of my rudder. I am told I need to 
drill an inspection whole to see if the the rudder post is still secured. 
Where to drill the whole is the key question. Does any one have a 
picture/drawing of the post by itself with the extensions off the post into 
the rudder.

Jon Tasker
Ghost Rider C 37

Sent from my iPad

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 



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Re: Stus-List Paint

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   You might consider using gelcoat over old gelcoat or bare fiberglass. It will never peel and can easily be applied with a brush...it cannot be applied over a previously painted surface.
   
  
   
   Bill Bruce
   Landfall 38
  
 


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Stus-List Rudder picture/drawing for 37

[Jon Tasker., via CnC-List]

I have just let a bucket full of water out of my rudder. I am told I need to 
drill an inspection whole to see if the the rudder post is still secured. Where 
to drill the whole is the key question. Does any one have a picture/drawing of 
the post by itself with the extensions off the post into the rudder.
Jon Tasker 
Ghost Rider C 37

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I did it last winter, so it has been 1 year.
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 9:56 AM, billbruce--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looks interesting, how well has it been standing up?
>
> Bill Bruce
> Landfall 38
>
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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   Looks interesting, how well has it been standing up?
   
  
   Bill Bruce
   Landfall 38
  
 


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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I used VHB 4991 (0.091" thick)  which seemed to work fine, but another
lister suggested a different VHB tape (above) which seemed to makes sense.
See results here

.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 9:27 AM, billbruce--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What kind of 3m tape is it?
>
> Bill Bruce
> Landfall 38
>
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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   What kind of 3m tape is it?
   
   Bill Bruce
   Landfall 38
  
 


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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

My m4-30 has 2 inline fuel filters, one with a water collection bowl, the
other a finer canister style filter (2 micron rings a bell)
...remember to close the fuel valve from the tank before removing the
filters, it can be a messy job, and you will need to bleed the fuel system
of entrapped air after installing the new filters...the owners manual
describes it well

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 9:29 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my
> Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine.
> The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is
> what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the
> fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed
> screws?  If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the
> system.  I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous
> Yanmar after changing filters.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

These are not made from marinized materials. They are intended to filter 
fuel for a home heating system.


Bill Bina


On 4/1/2017 8:01 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I came across this fuel filter unit while looking for filters online. 
 I was intrigued because I have only ever seen Racor available and 
they are absurdly expensive for what you are getting.  It costs 
substantially less than Racor, has a spin on filter instead of a bowl 
and includes a gauge, which I think is an important upgrade.  I don’t 
see an obvious way to bleed it and there is no visual water inspection 
point.  But I check for water rarely, because I have never had any in 
all the years I have owned a boat with a visual inspection port.  I 
also have a self-bleeding system so suspect this would not have to be 
bled.  I know I could add a gauge to my system, but this gets it all 
in one neat package.  Anyone had experience with a non-Racor system 
like this?  Dave




http://www.suremarineservice.com/W11BVRK.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw_PfGBRDW_sutqMbQsmMSJAAMpUapkNdVKNc5sqeq0tP3Ujt5rEnixaI6CymISR_p7xJl7RoCQyLw_wcB 







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Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

At one point early on when the boat is further out it looks like they are 
motoring. 

They could have anchored to buy time to fix their mainsail, sort things out, 
and wait for a tow, but that needed to be set well outside before they steered 
themselves into the breaker zone.  

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On March 31, 2017 at 4:38 PM Eric Baumes via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This is the harbour they were trying to get out of or into. One report I 
> read said they were on their way out.
> 
> The boat went under the pier into the triangle area.
> 
> Really scary stuff.
> 
> https://goo.gl/maps/xpKnuNA4GZw
> 
> On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 4:19 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > Watching the "full version" first minute or two, looks 
> like the main's luff was separated from the mast, and the crew was busy 
> gathering up the main and trying to re-feed its luff.  He might have been 
> able to run downwind on starboard tack under jib alone (don't know where that 
> would have led), but then he gybed to port and couldn't make enough way to 
> avoid the pier or not get tripped.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > Randy
> > 
> > 
> > -
> > From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > To: "CnClist" 
> > Cc: "Dennis" 
> > Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:44:21 PM
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Bad Race Start Last Night
> > 
> > 
> > Here's a nice video of it.
> > 
> > https://youtu.be/Isufp-6fudo
> > 
> > They looked a bit casual right before the wave.
> > 
> > Dennis C.
> > 
> > On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 12:55 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash 
> > https://news.google.com/search?q=redondo+beach+sailboat+crash
> > > 
> > > Looks like a Capri 18.
> > > 
> > > Done right:
> > > 1. All crew wearing PFDs.
> > > 2. Capsized close to beach, easing rescue.
> > > 
> > > Mistakes?
> > > 1. Only had the jib up?  Hard to head up under jib alone.
> > > 2. No auxiliary power?
> > > 
> > > Cheers,
> > > Randy
> > > (from SoCal, where it is windy this weekend)
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > 
> > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our 
> > > members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please 
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> > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > 
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> > 
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> > > 
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I came across this fuel filter unit while looking for filters online.  I was 
intrigued because I have only ever seen Racor available and they are absurdly 
expensive for what you are getting.  It costs substantially less than Racor, 
has a spin on filter instead of a bowl and includes a gauge, which I think is 
an important upgrade.  I don’t see an obvious way to bleed it and there is no 
visual water inspection point.  But I check for water rarely, because I have 
never had any in all the years I have owned a boat with a visual inspection 
port.  I also have a self-bleeding system so suspect this would not have to be 
bled.  I know I could add a gauge to my system, but this gets it all in one 
neat package.  Anyone had experience with a non-Racor system like this?  Dave

> 
http://www.suremarineservice.com/W11BVRK.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw_PfGBRDW_sutqMbQsmMSJAAMpUapkNdVKNc5sqeq0tP3Ujt5rEnixaI6CymISR_p7xJl7RoCQyLw_wcB
 




> On Mar 31, 2017, at 4:43 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not wanting to come off as a “conspiracy theory” nut, but they do sell a 
> remote oil filter kit that lets you orient the oil filter vertically and in 
> an area where you can actually get tools and a trash bag around the filter to 
> catch the oil waste.
>  
> On my M34B the oil filter is so tight against the bottom of the cooling hose 
> that it becomes a major hassle to even get a strap wrench on the filter. 
> That, and the mess from dripping oil, becomes a major motivation for buying a 
> remote kit every time I change the oil.   
>  
> So ya think maybe the dumb design is really smart marketing? Or am I just 
> being a cynic?
>  
> Rick Brass
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 7:54 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  >
> Cc: David Knecht >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>  
>  (I really wish they had oriented the oil filter up and down instead of 
> laying it on its side.) 
>  
> I second that thought.  Whomever designed that placement never changed the 
> oil filter on one of these engines!  Dave
>  
>>  
> 
>  
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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