Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I used a sharp chisel to shave the plexus off the gelcoat. The old glue was
still flexible enough that sanding didn't work well at all. It was a long
process as there was a lot of glueline to be cleaned. Quite a lot of
gelcoat came away with the plexi, which I filled and sanded flat. My plexi
was slightly oversized and it was a problem because of the bevelled inset.
I had to bevel the back of the plexi to open a channel for the Dow 795.

Al
SV Elendil
94 C&C 37/40+

On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 2:42 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Mark,
>  If you are going to use a smoke colored acrylic, you don't need to
> disguise the gelcoat damage with paint or anything else.  The darker
> acrylic will hide the damage completely.  I just faired the damaged gelcoat
> with and epoxy based fairing compound and sanded it flat.  I applied the
> VHB tape over the faired gelcoat. and it adhered fine.  I am into my second
> season with the new windows and they look terrific with no leaks.  If you
> have the old windows off, you have the worst part behind you.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 4:26 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Got my sheet of plexiglass for my window replacement.
>>
>> This weekend I started by removing 2 of the old surface mounted windows
>> to use a templates.  I used a small paint scraper/putty knife and a hammer
>> to split the bond between the plexi and the boat.  It wasn't painless - but
>> worked fairly well with I think minimal damage (I seem to recall a
>> suggestion from this list not to "pry" the window off but chisel all the
>> way around to minimize the gel coat damage).
>>
>> Now I'm wondering if there are any specific recommendations to clean up
>> the area before putting on the new windows?
>>
>> I'll need to scrape or sand off the remaining plexus and surface coat
>> over the damaged areas.  Don't think it needs to look pretty because it
>> will all be covered with the new dark plexi - plus I'll spray black on the
>> back of the plexi where it's going to be against the hull.  I'll try a
>> scraper and random orbital sander to get the plexus down - as long as I've
>> got a solid surface for the VHB tape to adhere.  For the damaged gel coat -
>> skim with some thickened epoxy and then some gel coat or just paint? Or
>> does it need any covering given it will be protected from UV by the
>> plexiglass?
>>
>> My plan is to cut the new windows about 1/2" larger all around to cover
>> any damage or discolouration.
>>
>> Any advice on how to get the remnant plexus off or best repair method is
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Mark
>> CS 30 - Prosecco
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info - I was hoping I could get away with a rough repair. 

As for the paint - I've read (elsewhere I guess) that it's a good idea to rough 
fit the window, trace from the inside where the opening is, then strip away the 
paper cover for the section of window that will be against the cabin top and 
spray paint it black with Krylon Fusion plastic paint. The idea is to make sure 
the VBH tape and the 795 are not visible through the plexiglass.  There was 
some question about the adhesive qualities of the Fusion paint - so I might 
test that on old plexiglass. 

While my plexiglass is dark grey I still thought I might be able to see some of 
the - I'll have to test that too. 

Mark

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Re: Stus-List Travel Track Width and Tool ID

[Neil Schiller via CnC-List]

We replaced our traveler with a Garhauer Marine windward sheeting 
system.  Sent Guido our old track and Garhauer match drilled the new 
track to fit the hole pattern that existed.  Easy replacement and works 
great.


BTW, we also have the same tension gauge in your pictures.

What is your hull number and where are is your home port?

You will find this list a great source of information.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
While Lake, Michigan


On 4/24/2017 9:58 PM, Jim via CnC-List wrote:
Getting my 'new to me last fall' C&C 35 mk 1 ready for spring launch 
and am looking for input on the traveler track width (see pic in 
attached dropbox link) and what the purpose is for a tool that I found 
on the boat (see pic in attached dropbox link).
From the traveler track picture you can see the tape measure shows 1 
3/8" wide (disregard the metric side of the tape, us Canadian's eh!). 
I'm looking to upgrade the traveler car, add some end sheaves to allow 
easier adjustment, etc but can't find anything for a 1 3/8" wide 
traveler track, only 1 1/2".  Am I misreading the measurement, or 
what?  I really don't want to replace the whole thing.  Any input welcome!
For the other picture of the tool / alignment tool if anyone can 
enlighten me what this is for it would be appreciated.  Cheers.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/y2fsam4l5vrvz7v/AAAzwvyuC7njm3lEGi3xNJ1Sa


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Stus-List Travel Track Width and Tool ID

[Jim via CnC-List]

Getting my 'new to me last fall' C&C 35 mk 1 ready for spring launch and am 
looking for input on the traveler track width (see pic in attached dropbox 
link) and what the purpose is for a tool that I found on the boat (see pic in 
attached dropbox link). 
>From the traveler track picture you can see the tape measure shows 1 3/8" wide 
>(disregard the metric side of the tape, us Canadian's eh!). I'm looking to 
>upgrade the traveler car, add some end sheaves to allow easier adjustment, etc 
>but can't find anything for a 1 3/8" wide traveler track, only 1 1/2". Am I 
>misreading the measurement, or what? I really don't want to replace the whole 
>thing. Any input welcome! 
For the other picture of the tool / alignment tool if anyone can enlighten me 
what this is for it would be appreciated. Cheers. 
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/y2fsam4l5vrvz7v/AAAzwvyuC7njm3lEGi3xNJ1Sa 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Alternator wiring

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Could the wires be going to an engine hour meter?

I replaced my 35 amp alternator with a higher amperage Balmer, with an
external regulator, from Defender.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 6:22 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Rich- Thanks for the info, and now I am really confused.  I have
> thought about putting in external regulation, but have done nothing about
> it yet so the Motorola is internally regulated as far as I know.  I was
> told you had to rewire the alternator to use an external regulator.   What
> is really bugging me is that I am quite sure that those wires were not
> connected to my alternator when I took it off last fall.  The two bolts in
> question are tightly fastened to the body, where the two I know I took off
> I left loose.  I also have a picture of the back of the alternator before I
> took it off and only two wires are connected.  But I know the alternator
> was charging because I checked it with my VOM while the engine was running
> to make sure and it was putting out ~14.5 volts at the battery.  Any way
> that is possible?  Dave
>
>
> On Apr 24, 2017, at 9:29 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The wire going to the key switch turns on the internal regulator and the
> wire going to the starter provides the feedback sense voltage to the
> regulator so that it can hold the output voltage constant.
>
> These wires are needed for an internally regulated alternator. If they are
> not connected, your alternator will a) not turn on and/or b) will not
> provide a correct voltage output. If you have converted the alternator to
> an external fixed or smart regulator, they will not be needed but can be
> used for the external regulator for the same purpose.
>
> Rich Knowles
> Halifax, NS
> C&C Alumnus
>
>
>
> On Apr 24, 2017, at 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am going to try again with a simpler alternator question and hope
> someone knows the answer:
>
> My wiring diagram for the engine shows a purple wire connected to the
> Exciter terminal of the alternator and running to the key switch and a
> orange-red wire connected to the Sense terminal and running to the
> starter.  I am having trouble finding information on what those do.  Does
> any one know their function and what would happen if they were not
> connected?  Thanks- Dave
>
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
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> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
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>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Alternator wiring

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

Hi Dave. 

It's possible that your alternator is not the original unit and the wires are 
left over from the previous one, or earlier.  Many alternators are self 
exciting so they don't need a connection to the ignition, and the sense is 
derived from the output connector inside the alternator.  Hence no need for the 
two loose wires. 

If you are going to install an external regulator, you will need connections to 
the ignition switch for power and to the battery for sense voltage . Any decent 
alternator shop can prep your existing alternator, or a new higher power one, 
for an external regulator by simply installing an internal wire from one brush 
to ground, and another wire leading from the other brush to the exterior of the 
alternator case to be connected to the field terminal on the new regulator. 
Sounds complicated, but it's actually quite easy. 

Rich 

> On Apr 24, 2017, at 22:22, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Rich- Thanks for the info, and now I am really confused.  I have thought 
> about putting in external regulation, but have done nothing about it yet so 
> the Motorola is internally regulated as far as I know.  I was told you had to 
> rewire the alternator to use an external regulator.   What is really bugging 
> me is that I am quite sure that those wires were not connected to my 
> alternator when I took it off last fall.  The two bolts in question are 
> tightly fastened to the body, where the two I know I took off I left loose.  
> I also have a picture of the back of the alternator before I took it off and 
> only two wires are connected.  But I know the alternator was charging because 
> I checked it with my VOM while the engine was running to make sure and it was 
> putting out ~14.5 volts at the battery.  Any way that is possible?  Dave
> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 24, 2017, at 9:29 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The wire going to the key switch turns on the internal regulator and the 
>>> wire going to the starter provides the feedback sense voltage to the 
>>> regulator so that it can hold the output voltage constant.
>>> 
>>> These wires are needed for an internally regulated alternator. If they are 
>>> not connected, your alternator will a) not turn on and/or b) will not 
>>> provide a correct voltage output. If you have converted the alternator to 
>>> an external fixed or smart regulator, they will not be needed but can be 
>>> used for the external regulator for the same purpose.
>>> 
>>> Rich Knowles
>>> Halifax, NS
>>> C&C Alumnus
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Apr 24, 2017, at 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am going to try again with a simpler alternator question and hope someone 
>>> knows the answer:
>>> 
>>> My wiring diagram for the engine shows a purple wire connected to the 
>>> Exciter terminal of the alternator and running to the key switch and a 
>>> orange-red wire connected to the Sense terminal and running to the starter. 
>>>  I am having trouble finding information on what those do.  Does any one 
>>> know their function and what would happen if they were not connected?  
>>> Thanks- Dave
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Fwd: Alternator wiring

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Rich- Thanks for the info, and now I am really confused.  I have thought 
about putting in external regulation, but have done nothing about it yet so the 
Motorola is internally regulated as far as I know.  I was told you had to 
rewire the alternator to use an external regulator.   What is really bugging me 
is that I am quite sure that those wires were not connected to my alternator 
when I took it off last fall.  The two bolts in question are tightly fastened 
to the body, where the two I know I took off I left loose.  I also have a 
picture of the back of the alternator before I took it off and only two wires 
are connected.  But I know the alternator was charging because I checked it 
with my VOM while the engine was running to make sure and it was putting out 
~14.5 volts at the battery.  Any way that is possible?  Dave

> 
>> On Apr 24, 2017, at 9:29 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> The wire going to the key switch turns on the internal regulator and the 
>> wire going to the starter provides the feedback sense voltage to the 
>> regulator so that it can hold the output voltage constant.
>> 
>> These wires are needed for an internally regulated alternator. If they are 
>> not connected, your alternator will a) not turn on and/or b) will not 
>> provide a correct voltage output. If you have converted the alternator to an 
>> external fixed or smart regulator, they will not be needed but can be used 
>> for the external regulator for the same purpose.
>> 
>> Rich Knowles
>> Halifax, NS
>> C&C Alumnus
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Apr 24, 2017, at 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> I am going to try again with a simpler alternator question and hope someone 
>> knows the answer:
>> 
>> My wiring diagram for the engine shows a purple wire connected to the 
>> Exciter terminal of the alternator and running to the key switch and a 
>> orange-red wire connected to the Sense terminal and running to the starter.  
>> I am having trouble finding information on what those do.  Does any one know 
>> their function and what would happen if they were not connected?  Thanks- 
>> Dave
>> 
>> 
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Mark,
 If you are going to use a smoke colored acrylic, you don't need to
disguise the gelcoat damage with paint or anything else.  The darker
acrylic will hide the damage completely.  I just faired the damaged gelcoat
with and epoxy based fairing compound and sanded it flat.  I applied the
VHB tape over the faired gelcoat. and it adhered fine.  I am into my second
season with the new windows and they look terrific with no leaks.  If you
have the old windows off, you have the worst part behind you.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 4:26 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Got my sheet of plexiglass for my window replacement.
>
> This weekend I started by removing 2 of the old surface mounted windows to
> use a templates.  I used a small paint scraper/putty knife and a hammer to
> split the bond between the plexi and the boat.  It wasn't painless - but
> worked fairly well with I think minimal damage (I seem to recall a
> suggestion from this list not to "pry" the window off but chisel all the
> way around to minimize the gel coat damage).
>
> Now I'm wondering if there are any specific recommendations to clean up
> the area before putting on the new windows?
>
> I'll need to scrape or sand off the remaining plexus and surface coat over
> the damaged areas.  Don't think it needs to look pretty because it will all
> be covered with the new dark plexi - plus I'll spray black on the back of
> the plexi where it's going to be against the hull.  I'll try a scraper and
> random orbital sander to get the plexus down - as long as I've got a solid
> surface for the VHB tape to adhere.  For the damaged gel coat - skim with
> some thickened epoxy and then some gel coat or just paint? Or does it need
> any covering given it will be protected from UV by the plexiglass?
>
> My plan is to cut the new windows about 1/2" larger all around to cover
> any damage or discolouration.
>
> Any advice on how to get the remnant plexus off or best repair method is
> appreciated.
>
> Mark
> CS 30 - Prosecco
>
> --
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Forward looking sonar

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

HI Joe. I agree completely and have noted the same points, but the owner wants 
to explore the possibilities. Nothing tried nothing gained, I guess!

Good hearing from you.

Rich








On Apr 24, 2017, at 18:38, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My brief experience with it leads me to believe it is of limited usefulness in 
many situations. Best case would be deep water with steep channel sides and 
reefs. Worst case is where I live, shallow water and a lot of gently sloping 
sand and mud bottoms. Think about the geometry of it, in 10 feet of water how 
far can you see? 40 feet?
 
Joe
Coquina
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2017 1:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rich Knowles mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>>; Bruce Pope 
mailto:brucep...@live.ca>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forward looking sonar
 
Thanks, Bruce. I've seen most of the written stuff available including this 
article. I was wondering if anyone had any personal experience. 

Rich 

On Apr 24, 2017, at 13:58, Bruce Pope via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

http://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/5-forward-looking-sonar-tested-29321 

    
Forward-looking sonar: 5 units tested - Practical Boat Owner 

www.pbo.co.uk 
How effective is forward-looking sonar at flagging up shoals and obstacles on 
the seabed? David Pugh compares the findings from five devices Would you like 
to be able ...
 

 

From: Rich Knowles mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>>
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 4:45 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 80
 
Hello all!
 
This is a voice from the past with a question:
 
I am preparing to do an electronics refit on a 1987 C&C 30. The owner is very 
keen to install forward looking sonar as he does a lot of gunk holing and wants 
to keep the hull holing to a minimum.
 
We are currently mulling Raymarine as the primary system supplier, but they do 
not have the forward looking technology readily available. Garmin and EchoPilot 
do.
 
http://www.echopilot.com/products/echopilot-platinum-engine/ 
.
  
EchoPilot Forward Sonar - EchoPilot Platinum Engine 

www.echopilot.com 
EchoPilot platinum engine 2D forward looking sonar ... FLS Platinum Video 
System Features S-Video or Composite Video Output 200m Forward Range Improved 
performance ...
 
 
Is there any experience out there with forward looking sonar and possibly 
integrating  a system with Raymarine?
 
 
Rich Knowles
Halifax, NS
C&C Alumnus
 


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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Not to mention what the solvents in the paint will do to plastic. =-O

Bill Bina


On 4/24/2017 5:16 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
You’re going to spray black paint on the plexi where it contacts the 
hull?  Isn’t that going to seriously weaken the bond between the VHB 
tape and the hull?



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Re: Stus-List Forward looking sonar

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My brief experience with it leads me to believe it is of limited usefulness in 
many situations. Best case would be deep water with steep channel sides and 
reefs. Worst case is where I live, shallow water and a lot of gently sloping 
sand and mud bottoms. Think about the geometry of it, in 10 feet of water how 
far can you see? 40 feet?

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2017 1:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rich Knowles ; Bruce Pope 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forward looking sonar

Thanks, Bruce. I've seen most of the written stuff available including this 
article. I was wondering if anyone had any personal experience.

Rich

On Apr 24, 2017, at 13:58, Bruce Pope via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

http://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/5-forward-looking-sonar-tested-29321
[http://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2016/05/Heading-pic_cmyk.jpg]

Forward-looking sonar: 5 units tested - Practical Boat 
Owner
www.pbo.co.uk
How effective is forward-looking sonar at flagging up shoals and obstacles on 
the seabed? David Pugh compares the findings from five devices Would you like 
to be able ...




From: Rich Knowles mailto:r...@sailpower.ca>>
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 4:45 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 80

Hello all!

This is a voice from the past with a question:

I am preparing to do an electronics refit on a 1987 C&C 30. The owner is very 
keen to install forward looking sonar as he does a lot of gunk holing and wants 
to keep the hull holing to a minimum.

We are currently mulling Raymarine as the primary system supplier, but they do 
not have the forward looking technology readily available. Garmin and EchoPilot 
do.

http://www.echopilot.com/products/echopilot-platinum-engine/.
[http://www.echopilot.com/s/misc/logo.jpg?t=1491624341]

EchoPilot Forward Sonar - EchoPilot Platinum 
Engine
www.echopilot.com
EchoPilot platinum engine 2D forward looking sonar ... FLS Platinum Video 
System Features S-Video or Composite Video Output 200m Forward Range Improved 
performance ...



Is there any experience out there with forward looking sonar and possibly 
integrating  a system with Raymarine?


Rich Knowles
Halifax, NS
C&C Alumnus



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___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

You’re going to spray black paint on the plexi where it contacts the hull?  
Isn’t that going to seriously weaken the bond between the VHB tape and the hull?___

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Stus-List Window replacement

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Got my sheet of plexiglass for my window replacement.

This weekend I started by removing 2 of the old surface mounted windows 
to use a templates.  I used a small paint scraper/putty knife and a 
hammer to split the bond between the plexi and the boat.  It wasn't 
painless - but worked fairly well with I think minimal damage (I seem to 
recall a suggestion from this list not to "pry" the window off but 
chisel all the way around to minimize the gel coat damage).


Now I'm wondering if there are any specific recommendations to clean up 
the area before putting on the new windows?


I'll need to scrape or sand off the remaining plexus and surface coat 
over the damaged areas.  Don't think it needs to look pretty because it 
will all be covered with the new dark plexi - plus I'll spray black on 
the back of the plexi where it's going to be against the hull.  I'll try 
a scraper and random orbital sander to get the plexus down - as long as 
I've got a solid surface for the VHB tape to adhere.  For the damaged 
gel coat - skim with some thickened epoxy and then some gel coat or just 
paint? Or does it need any covering given it will be protected from UV 
by the plexiglass?


My plan is to cut the new windows about 1/2" larger all around to cover 
any damage or discolouration.


Any advice on how to get the remnant plexus off or best repair method is 
appreciated.


Mark
CS 30 - Prosecco

--



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Forward looking sonar

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

Thanks, Bruce. I've seen most of the written stuff available including this 
article. I was wondering if anyone had any personal experience. 

Rich 

> On Apr 24, 2017, at 13:58, Bruce Pope via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> http://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/5-forward-looking-sonar-tested-29321
> 
> 
> Forward-looking sonar: 5 units tested - Practical Boat Owner
> www.pbo.co.uk
> How effective is forward-looking sonar at flagging up shoals and obstacles on 
> the seabed? David Pugh compares the findings from five devices Would you like 
> to be able ...
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Rich Knowles 
> Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 4:45 AM
> To: cnc-list Cnc-List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 80
>  
> Hello all!
> 
> This is a voice from the past with a question:
> 
> I am preparing to do an electronics refit on a 1987 C&C 30. The owner is very 
> keen to install forward looking sonar as he does a lot of gunk holing and 
> wants to keep the hull holing to a minimum.
> 
> We are currently mulling Raymarine as the primary system supplier, but they 
> do not have the forward looking technology readily available. Garmin and 
> EchoPilot do.
> 
> http://www.echopilot.com/products/echopilot-platinum-engine/.
> 
> EchoPilot Forward Sonar - EchoPilot Platinum Engine
> www.echopilot.com
> EchoPilot platinum engine 2D forward looking sonar ... FLS Platinum Video 
> System Features S-Video or Composite Video Output 200m Forward Range Improved 
> performance ...
>  
> 
> 
> Is there any experience out there with forward looking sonar and possibly 
> integrating  a system with Raymarine?
> 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Halifax, NS
> C&C Alumnus
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Pay Stuart Murray using PayPal.Me
> www.paypal.me
> 
> PayPal.Me
> www.paypal.me
> Share your PayPal.Me page link with friends and family; splitting a bill, 
> chipping in for a present, or reimbursing a friend has never been easier.
>  
> 
> Go to paypal.me/stumurray and type in the amount. Since it’s PayPal, it's 
> easy and secure. Don’t have a PayPal account? No worries. Getting one is fast 
> and free.
> 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Forward looking sonar

[Bruce Pope via CnC-List]

http://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/5-forward-looking-sonar-tested-29321

[http://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/19/2016/05/Heading-pic_cmyk.jpg]

Forward-looking sonar: 5 units tested - Practical Boat 
Owner
www.pbo.co.uk
How effective is forward-looking sonar at flagging up shoals and obstacles on 
the seabed? David Pugh compares the findings from five devices Would you like 
to be able ...






From: Rich Knowles 
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 4:45 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 80

Hello all!

This is a voice from the past with a question:

I am preparing to do an electronics refit on a 1987 C&C 30. The owner is very 
keen to install forward looking sonar as he does a lot of gunk holing and wants 
to keep the hull holing to a minimum.

We are currently mulling Raymarine as the primary system supplier, but they do 
not have the forward looking technology readily available. Garmin and EchoPilot 
do.

http://www.echopilot.com/products/echopilot-platinum-engine/.

[http://www.echopilot.com/s/misc/logo.jpg?t=1491624341]

EchoPilot Forward Sonar - EchoPilot Platinum 
Engine
www.echopilot.com
EchoPilot platinum engine 2D forward looking sonar ... FLS Platinum Video 
System Features S-Video or Composite Video Output 200m Forward Range Improved 
performance ...



Is there any experience out there with forward looking sonar and possibly 
integrating  a system with Raymarine?


Rich Knowles
Halifax, NS
C&C Alumnus



___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
[https://www.paypalobjects.com/webstatic/paypalme/images/social/pplogo384.png]

Pay Stuart Murray using PayPal.Me
www.paypal.me

[https://www.paypalobjects.com/webstatic/paypalme/images/social/pplogo384.png]

PayPal.Me
www.paypal.me
Share your PayPal.Me page link with friends and family; splitting a bill, 
chipping in for a present, or reimbursing a friend has never been easier.


Go to paypal.me/stumurray and type in the amount. 
Since it’s PayPal, it's easy and secure. Don’t have a PayPal account? No 
worries. Getting one is fast and free.



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Alternator wiring

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

The wire going to the key switch turns on the internal regulator and the wire 
going to the starter provides the feedback sense voltage to the regulator so 
that it can hold the output voltage constant.

These wires are needed for an internally regulated alternator. If they are not 
connected, your alternator will a) not turn on and/or b) will not provide a 
correct voltage output. If you have converted the alternator to an external 
fixed or smart regulator, they will not be needed but can be used for the 
external regulator for the same purpose.

Rich Knowles
Halifax, NS
C&C Alumnus



On Apr 24, 2017, at 10:07, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

I am going to try again with a simpler alternator question and hope someone 
knows the answer:

My wiring diagram for the engine shows a purple wire connected to the Exciter 
terminal of the alternator and running to the key switch and a orange-red wire 
connected to the Sense terminal and running to the starter.  I am having 
trouble finding information on what those do.  Does any one know their function 
and what would happen if they were not connected?  Thanks- Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Alternator wiring

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am going to try again with a simpler alternator question and hope someone 
knows the answer:

My wiring diagram for the engine shows a purple wire connected to the Exciter 
terminal of the alternator and running to the key switch and a orange-red wire 
connected to the Sense terminal and running to the starter.  I am having 
trouble finding information on what those do.  Does any one know their function 
and what would happen if they were not connected?  Thanks- Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Fuel consumption app for gph

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I track the fuel I use by gallons and engine hours in order to calculate
gallons per hour (gph).  Right now I do it manually in the boat's logbook
and then use a spreadsheet.

I see several fuel consumption apps out there but suspect they are geared
more to miles per gallon than gallons per hour.

Has anybody found one that easily does gallons per hour?  I have both IOS
and Android devices.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Jerry

Persistence came with electric primary winches.  These were Lewmar 43.  The 
motors beneath the coamings were massive.  Also servicing the winch required 
dropping the motor (did I mention they were very heavy and very large in very 
cramped spaces?).  We removed these and replaced with regular Lewmar 40 (not 
motorized).  

I am only mentioning this because I wanted to stress how much room you require 
beneath the winch for a motorized winch.  In the case of a halyard winch I 
would imagine that this will take up cabin space and if on the mast may not 
even be possible.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 6:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

Has anyone converted an ST Barient winch to electric power. Any ideas on 
whether it can be done beneath winch?  I would like to motorize my halyard 
winch.   New electric winches are astronomically priced.  Jerry J&J

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Stus-List NAVMAN 3100

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/bpo/6101821833.html

 

If anyone is interested, just posted brand new NAVMAN 3100 anemometer, cable, 
junction box, owner’s manual.  I bought it hoping it would fix my Standard 
Horizon, but no such luck.

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

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