Re: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

1+ on the Milwaukee right angle drill.


A local rigger who is up and down many masts many times has one and his 
assistant drives him skyward easily with it.


Not cheap but definitely capable of many trips up the mast but much much 
cheaper than an electric winch and it is easily useable on any winch on board.


Charlie Nelson
Greenville, NC


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Sent: Tue, Apr 25, 2017 9:01 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

I don't know how much the Winchrite handles cost, but electric winches will
probably be a couple of grand.

A friend with a Tartan 37 recently bought a Milwaukee 28V 1/2" right angle
power drill and a hex driver to fit his winches; and he loves it. Cost
something under $400 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-0721-21-28-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B00
0FBLW24/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8=1493168061=8-2=Milwaukee+right+an
gle+28V+drill

I've used it to hoist someone up my mast to replace some lights, and it is
slick.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 10:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

Jerry,

Have you considered a Winchrite powered handle?  I have used one to raise
and then furl the main on a Beneteau 47 which had a Leisure Furl Coastal
Plus furling boom.  It worked fine and I was told it had enough capacity to
do this again without recharging.

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 5:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

Has anyone converted an ST Barient winch to electric power. Any ideas on
whether it can be done beneath winch?  I would like to motorize my halyard
winch.   New electric winches are astronomically priced.  Jerry J

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar)

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Joel
I was looking at a replacement for my Espar  last winter and was able to
find someone to rebuild/repair my existing system and "fix" some of the
problems inherent in the original installation. Too many ducts were
installed for the system and none forward of the rear stateroom received
adequate heat.  This overloaded the system and it was prone to "coking".
I did a lot of searching and although the Espar  heaters show up on ebay as
a "marine" heater, I think the legit installation folks will tell you it's
a push by the time you fully "marinize" the truck system.
I do agree that by using the existing ducting you will save many problems
and cost!  Don't be tempted to buy a system that calls for larger duct
system as they are designed to only push so much air.   Be brutally honest
about how you are going to use the system.
We lived aboard and used the Espar to warm the boat on cold mornings
assisting the dockside electric heaters.  Apparently you want these diesel
systems to work near their specified performance at all times.  They are
designed for that, but not to idle along keeping you massively comfortable.

The Espar air  and the Webastos are both very nice systems.
Sometimes the brand choice relies on the support you receive from the
distributor.
Mine (3DL) is a monster now with 2 of 4 ducts eliminated.
Hope that helps

Rick
Tacoma, WA
Paikea 37+



On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 5:43 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> Does anybody have experience with buying/installing/using a Diesel Air
> Heater (a-la Webasto, Eberspacher, Planar) in lieu of a
> propane/diesel/solid fuel fireplace-type heater?
>
> The Safari (1977 C 34) currently has an ancient forced-air kerosene
> vaporizing heater that has nearly caught itself on fire multiple times when
> guests (and less-informed owners) have neglected to read the impossibly
> complex startup and shutdown procedure. It’s also battleship grey, weirdly
> shaped, and mounted on a bulkhead out in the open. And it takes 25 minutes
> to give full heat.
>
> Originally we were thinking of replacing it with a propane or diesel
> fireplace type heater a-lal Dickenson or Sig, but somebody pointed me to
> Diesel Air Heaters like Webasto, Eberspaecher and Planar, and they seem
> like they could be a great fit. We have plenty of room to mount one in the
> engine compartment, we get near instant heat, we already have (some)
> ductwork run, and it would run off our existing diesel fuel supply.
>
> Presently I’m leaning towards the Eberspaecher/Espar Airtronic 12V (
> http://www.heatso.com/eberspacher-airtronic-d2-12v-2-2kw-heater-kit/
> )
> - it’s nearly half the price of the Webasto models. Planar seems like
> another lower cost option, but apparently it’s from Russia and that makes
> me nervous.
>
> Anybody used any of these? Why are Webastos $2700 and the Espars are $800?
>
> Andrew
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar)

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew

I've got an Espar hydronic unit, and love it.  Before you get too far though 
you should ponder where to install the unit, and how and where to run the 
exhaust.  For example, the exhaust needs to be held several inches away from 
combustable materials (e.g. hull, bulkheads, hoses...).  It took me a while to 
sort that part of things out.

You may find a D2 small, Espar has some materials that talk about size 
recommendations - but obviously it will also depend on what you want out of it 
- significant heat, or just to take the chill off in the main cabin.  I like 
having the head and the v-berth heated, makes life more comfortable!

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-04-25 9:43 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List wrote:
Hey all -

Does anybody have experience with buying/installing/using a Diesel Air Heater 
(a-la Webasto, Eberspacher, Planar) in lieu of a propane/diesel/solid fuel 
fireplace-type heater?

The Safari (1977 C 34) currently has an ancient forced-air kerosene 
vaporizing heater that has nearly caught itself on fire multiple times when 
guests (and less-informed owners) have neglected to read the impossibly complex 
startup and shutdown procedure. It’s also battleship grey, weirdly shaped, and 
mounted on a bulkhead out in the open. And it takes 25 minutes to give full 
heat.

Originally we were thinking of replacing it with a propane or diesel fireplace 
type heater a-lal Dickenson or Sig, but somebody pointed me to Diesel Air 
Heaters like Webasto, Eberspaecher and Planar, and they seem like they could be 
a great fit. We have plenty of room to mount one in the engine compartment, we 
get near instant heat, we already have (some) ductwork run, and it would run 
off our existing diesel fuel supply.

Presently I’m leaning towards the Eberspaecher/Espar Airtronic 12V 
(http://www.heatso.com/eberspacher-airtronic-d2-12v-2-2kw-heater-kit/)
 - it’s nearly half the price of the Webasto models. Planar seems like another 
lower cost option, but apparently it’s from Russia and that makes me nervous.

Anybody used any of these? Why are Webastos $2700 and the Espars are $800?

Andrew

--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I don't know how much the Winchrite handles cost, but electric winches will
probably be a couple of grand.

A friend with a Tartan 37 recently bought a Milwaukee 28V 1/2" right angle
power drill and a hex driver to fit his winches; and he loves it. Cost
something under $400 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-0721-21-28-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B00
0FBLW24/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8=1493168061=8-2=Milwaukee+right+an
gle+28V+drill

I've used it to hoist someone up my mast to replace some lights, and it is
slick.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 10:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

Jerry,

Have you considered a Winchrite powered handle?  I have used one to raise
and then furl the main on a Beneteau 47 which had a Leisure Furl Coastal
Plus furling boom.  It worked fine and I was told it had enough capacity to
do this again without recharging.

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 5:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

Has anyone converted an ST Barient winch to electric power. Any ideas on
whether it can be done beneath winch?  I would like to motorize my halyard
winch.   New electric winches are astronomically priced.  Jerry J

___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Travel Track Width and Tool ID

[schiller via CnC-List]

Somewhere, sometime ago I did find instructions for the gauge. The key 
was to find the correct diameter steel rod for calibration.  I did find 
the correct rod but it is on the boat. The big thing that I use it for 
is to balance the tension from side-to-side.  It works for that.


Your boat is only 8 SN's fro Dennis C's boat.  He will be able to give 
you detailed advice from his experiences.  Our boat is SN 7 and is 
George Cuthbertson told me the first twelve were all different in one 
way or another as C figured out how they wanted to build them.


I'll be up to the boat in the next week or two and will get the rod 
diameter for you.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"


On 4/25/2017 6:19 PM, j...@mymts.net wrote:

Neil
Thanks for the info.  Boat was purchased in 1971 and I believe it is 
S/N 75 (serial number plate shows CC-35-75-71).
Home port is Northern Harbour, on Lake of the Woods by Kenora, Ontario 
Canada.


Since you have the same tension gauge and same C 35, do you have 
instructions or specs on how I should use the tension gauge?


Cheers, James Neirinck
C 35 Mk1, Flamingo IV



*From: *"Neil Schiller via CnC-List" 
*To: *"Jim via CnC-List" 
*Cc: *"Neil Schiller" 
*Sent: *Monday, April 24, 2017 9:13:29 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Travel Track Width and Tool ID

We replaced our traveler with a Garhauer Marine windward sheeting 
system.  Sent Guido our old track and Garhauer match drilled the new 
track to fit the hole pattern that existed.  Easy replacement and 
works great.


BTW, we also have the same tension gauge in your pictures.

What is your hull number and where are is your home port?

You will find this list a great source of information.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
While Lake, Michigan


On 4/24/2017 9:58 PM, Jim via CnC-List wrote:

Getting my 'new to me last fall' C 35 mk 1 ready for spring
launch and am looking for input on the traveler track width (see
pic in attached dropbox link) and what the purpose is for a tool
that I found on the boat (see pic in attached dropbox link).
From the traveler track picture you can see the tape measure shows
1 3/8" wide (disregard the metric side of the tape, us Canadian's
eh!).  I'm looking to upgrade the traveler car, add some end
sheaves to allow easier adjustment, etc but can't find anything
for a 1 3/8" wide traveler track, only 1 1/2".  Am I misreading
the measurement, or what?  I really don't want to replace the
whole thing.  Any input welcome!
For the other picture of the tool / alignment tool if anyone can
enlighten me what this is for it would be appreciated.  Cheers.
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/y2fsam4l5vrvz7v/AAAzwvyuC7njm3lEGi3xNJ1Sa


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Diesel Air Heaters (Webasto, Planar, Eberspaecher/Espar)

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

Does anybody have experience with buying/installing/using a Diesel Air
Heater (a-la Webasto, Eberspacher, Planar) in lieu of a
propane/diesel/solid fuel fireplace-type heater?

The Safari (1977 C 34) currently has an ancient forced-air kerosene
vaporizing heater that has nearly caught itself on fire multiple times when
guests (and less-informed owners) have neglected to read the impossibly
complex startup and shutdown procedure. It’s also battleship grey, weirdly
shaped, and mounted on a bulkhead out in the open. And it takes 25 minutes
to give full heat.

Originally we were thinking of replacing it with a propane or diesel
fireplace type heater a-lal Dickenson or Sig, but somebody pointed me to
Diesel Air Heaters like Webasto, Eberspaecher and Planar, and they seem
like they could be a great fit. We have plenty of room to mount one in the
engine compartment, we get near instant heat, we already have (some)
ductwork run, and it would run off our existing diesel fuel supply.

Presently I’m leaning towards the Eberspaecher/Espar Airtronic 12V (
http://www.heatso.com/eberspacher-airtronic-d2-12v-2-2kw-heater-kit/
)
- it’s nearly half the price of the Webasto models. Planar seems like
another lower cost option, but apparently it’s from Russia and that makes
me nervous.

Anybody used any of these? Why are Webastos $2700 and the Espars are $800?

Andrew

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Travel Track Width and Tool ID

[Jim via CnC-List]

Neil 
Thanks for the info. Boat was purchased in 1971 and I believe it is S/N 75 
(serial number plate shows CC-35-75-71). 
Home port is Northern Harbour, on Lake of the Woods by Kenora, Ontario Canada. 

Since you have the same tension gauge and same C 35, do you have instructions 
or specs on how I should use the tension gauge? 

Cheers, James Neirinck 
C 35 Mk1, Flamingo IV 


- Original Message -

From: "Neil Schiller via CnC-List"  
To: "Jim via CnC-List"  
Cc: "Neil Schiller"  
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2017 9:13:29 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Travel Track Width and Tool ID 



We replaced our traveler with a Garhauer Marine windward sheeting system. Sent 
Guido our old track and Garhauer match drilled the new track to fit the hole 
pattern that existed. Easy replacement and works great. 

BTW, we also have the same tension gauge in your pictures. 

What is your hull number and where are is your home port? 

You will find this list a great source of information. 


Neil Schiller 
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 
(C 35, Mark I) 
"Corsair" 
While Lake, Michigan 

On 4/24/2017 9:58 PM, Jim via CnC-List wrote: 



Getting my 'new to me last fall' C 35 mk 1 ready for spring launch and am 
looking for input on the traveler track width (see pic in attached dropbox 
link) and what the purpose is for a tool that I found on the boat (see pic in 
attached dropbox link). 
>From the traveler track picture you can see the tape measure shows 1 3/8" wide 
>(disregard the metric side of the tape, us Canadian's eh!). I'm looking to 
>upgrade the traveler car, add some end sheaves to allow easier adjustment, etc 
>but can't find anything for a 1 3/8" wide traveler track, only 1 1/2". Am I 
>misreading the measurement, or what? I really don't want to replace the whole 
>thing. Any input welcome! 
For the other picture of the tool / alignment tool if anyone can enlighten me 
what this is for it would be appreciated. Cheers. 
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/y2fsam4l5vrvz7v/AAAzwvyuC7njm3lEGi3xNJ1Sa 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 




___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Mark,

I installed new ports via VHB tape and Dow 795 using Krylon Fusion to make a 
bonding mask.   The link to my write up is below.  As already mentioned, the 
mask provides a nice finished edge hiding the underlying tape and sealant.   I 
don’t recall the source, but I have read that the Krylon Fusion acts like a 
bonding primer for the Dow 795 promoting adhesion. (Dow actually sells a clear 
RTV primer, see Dow PR-1200 )   There are reports from folks on sailing sites 
who have tested the bonding with and without a Fusion mask, and they report no 
loss of adhesion.  That stated, if you go with a Fusion mask, then one thin 
coat is all that is need and likely better than a thicker coat.   But to be 
honest, I think the greatest detriment to adhesion are your fingers.  Don’t 
touch the bonding surface, be it Fusion paint or not.  And just before 
inserting the port, give the surface mounted area one last wipe down with 
isopropyl and let dry.


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> 
> On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 11:39 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>> Thanks for the info - I was hoping I could get away with a rough repair.
>> 
>> As for the paint - I've read (elsewhere I guess) that it's a good idea to
>> rough fit the window, trace from the inside where the opening is, then
>> strip away the paper cover for the section of window that will be against
>> the cabin top and spray paint it black with Krylon Fusion plastic paint.
>> The idea is to make sure the VBH tape and the 795 are not visible through
>> the plexiglass. There was some question about the adhesive qualities of the
>> Fusion paint - so I might test that on old plexiglass.
>> 
>> While my plexiglass is dark grey I still thought I might be able to see
>> some of the - I'll have to test that too.
>> 
>> Mark
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Forward looking crows nest camera

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

In any kind of waves I would not want to be looking at that screen.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 10:45 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Raymarine at least has these in both ordinary video camera and FLIR
> configurations.
> Sailboats are tough for sonar installs. Navy ships use transducers mounted
> at the deepest point of the bow as far under surface disturbances as you
> can get. We do not have the luxury of that kind of transducer size or
> mounting area.
> Fishing sonar uses a pretty big tranducer that very few sailing yachts
> would want to deal with.
> http://www.furunousa.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?
> product=CH2542%2f150%2f5.2=Parts=Parts
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve
> Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 7:12 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Steve Thomas 
> Subject: Stus-List Forward looking crows nest camera
>
> Given that the main reason for wanting forward looking sonar is to avoid
> bumping into things, and given that a sharp lookout is both the traditional
> and still recommended way to navigate the reefs in many places, it is a
> wonder to me that I have yet to hear of a camera either used or marketed as
> a substitute for a crows nest. A continuous video feed from a "crows nest
> camera" to a screen at the nav station might be a useful thing in any
> number of situations. I am thinking of something along the lines of a wired
> GoPro up on the mast or under a spreader. Even 4k cameras aren't all that
> expensive these days.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> P.S. We got the docks in at the sailing club last weekend. Spring is here!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Forward looking crows nest camera

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Raymarine at least has these in both ordinary video camera and FLIR 
configurations.
Sailboats are tough for sonar installs. Navy ships use transducers mounted at 
the deepest point of the bow as far under surface disturbances as you can get. 
We do not have the luxury of that kind of transducer size or mounting area.
Fishing sonar uses a pretty big tranducer that very few sailing yachts would 
want to deal with.
http://www.furunousa.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?product=CH2542%2f150%2f5.2=Parts=Parts



Joe Della Barba
Coquina




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 7:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas 
Subject: Stus-List Forward looking crows nest camera

Given that the main reason for wanting forward looking sonar is to avoid 
bumping into things, and given that a sharp lookout is both the traditional and 
still recommended way to navigate the reefs in many places, it is a wonder to 
me that I have yet to hear of a camera either used or marketed as a substitute 
for a crows nest. A continuous video feed from a "crows nest camera" to a 
screen at the nav station might be a useful thing in any number of situations. 
I am thinking of something along the lines of a wired GoPro up on the mast or 
under a spreader. Even 4k cameras aren't all that expensive these days.  

Steve Thomas 
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

P.S. We got the docks in at the sailing club last weekend. Spring is here!



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Re: Stus-List Travel Track Width and Tool ID

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Wow, what an antique rig tension gauge!  Really interesting.

As for the traveler. Garhauer will make you a custom car.

I installed a Harken track and car with a continuous 4:1 traveler sheet.
Can trim from either side.  Love it.  Pics here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsYUthaHZFWVpnVUE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsMVh3czhWRUhCalE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX0dGcEV2Mm1QNUE

Note the swivel camcleat.  Makes it really easy to trim from the steering
station as well as the cockpit.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 8:58 PM, Jim via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Getting my 'new to me last fall' C 35 mk 1 ready for spring launch and
> am looking for input on the traveler track width (see pic in attached
> dropbox link) and what the purpose is for a tool that I found on the boat
> (see pic in attached dropbox link).
> From the traveler track picture you can see the tape measure shows 1 3/8"
> wide (disregard the metric side of the tape, us Canadian's eh!).  I'm
> looking to upgrade the traveler car, add some end sheaves to allow easier
> adjustment, etc but can't find anything for a 1 3/8" wide traveler track,
> only 1 1/2".  Am I misreading the measurement, or what?  I really don't
> want to replace the whole thing.  Any input welcome!
> For the other picture of the tool / alignment tool if anyone can enlighten
> me what this is for it would be appreciated.  Cheers.
> https://www.dropbox.com/sc/y2fsam4l5vrvz7v/AAAzwvyuC7njm3lEGi3xNJ1Sa
>
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>
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Stus-List Forward looking crows nest camera

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Given that the main reason for wanting forward looking sonar is to avoid 
bumping into things, and given that a sharp lookout is both the traditional and 
still recommended way to navigate the reefs in many places, it is a wonder to 
me that I have yet to hear of a camera either used or marketed as a substitute 
for a crows nest. A continuous video feed from a "crows nest camera" to a 
screen at the nav station might be a useful thing in any number of situations. 
I am thinking of something along the lines of a wired GoPro up on the mast or 
under a spreader. Even 4k cameras aren't all that expensive these days.  

Steve Thomas 
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

P.S. We got the docks in at the sailing club last weekend. Spring is here!



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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Mark,
 I promise you the gelcoat will not be visible.  See below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmMy1ybWVuQ2V6bUE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmWHZCaVRGREIyZ0E/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmRzdIM1ZfQ25jTDQ/view?usp=sharing

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 11:39 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the info - I was hoping I could get away with a rough repair.
>
> As for the paint - I've read (elsewhere I guess) that it's a good idea to
> rough fit the window, trace from the inside where the opening is, then
> strip away the paper cover for the section of window that will be against
> the cabin top and spray paint it black with Krylon Fusion plastic paint.
> The idea is to make sure the VBH tape and the 795 are not visible through
> the plexiglass. There was some question about the adhesive qualities of the
> Fusion paint - so I might test that on old plexiglass.
>
> While my plexiglass is dark grey I still thought I might be able to see
> some of the - I'll have to test that too.
>
> Mark
>
>
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>
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