Re: Stus-List Eberspacher D1L Heater

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Eugene,
I had some folks local to Tacoma, WA  work on my Espar d3L unit in the
spring and they did a great job.  Parts are sometimes hard to acquire.
There are individual parts of the heaters that are prone to failure that
cannot be effectively fixed! and are critical to dependable performance.
I believe some parts are as expensive as a new heater.  At the time there
were fans available for this unit for   $750 on ebay.   I was prepared to
buy a new Webasto to replace my heater, and was up front about that with
this shop.  The tore it down and I got the thumbs up on my unit from
Breakwater Marine and they made it run nearly like new.  This required the
abandonment of 2 of the 4 heat ducts in the boat to reduce the load on the
heater blower and burn box.
I have found that there is a lot of voodoo in this heater business, and it
was refreshing to get some up front advice and then some follow through.
Do some research on what heaters (new) if installed in your boat would use
your existing ductwork, fuel feed, and exhaust (if you are satisfied with
those systems).  Most dealers will tell you your heater is a pile of
rubbish, and they probably aren't necessarily wrong.  Be prepared to spend
some money if you want it to work dependably, but know how far to go with
what you currently have knowing that anything you spend on the older system
is a one time fix and may fail again relatively early.
Sure Marine in Ballard, WA is also a great source of reliable information
and amazing parts.

Fair winds and a following sea!

Rick
Paikea 37+





On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 2:12 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have an Eberspacher D1L heater on my boat and found a manual online.
> Anyone have any experience repairing these and debugging tips? Would be
> nice to be able to run it at anchor.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gene
> "Hawk"
> C 29-2
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Lewmar Coastline Hatch 70 Leak - Guidance Please?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

On my 94 37/40+ the forward hatch is an Ocean hatch. All the small ones are 
Coastline. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On May 2, 2017, at 6:20 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Our '94 C 37/40+ leaks a little bit through the aft center of our Lewmar 
> Coastline Hatch.  I think the problem is the seal, having reattached 2 out of 
> 3 broken friction levers and tightening down the screws going through the 
> plexiglass, and not seeing it leaking between the frame and the deck opening. 
>
> 
> Our little hatches don't leak at all, and they too, mostly had broken 
> friction levers and attachments (makes me wonder what the prior owner was 
> doing).  I have friction latches coming, and they are easily found here in 
> the states.  
> 
> I tried to order the seal, but the only place that supposedly had it in stock 
> turned out they didn't have it, and the seal has to come all the way from 
> England and they're saying it will be 4 weeks or more.  It seems like no one 
> really ends up having to replace the seals.
> 
> Can anyone give me guidance as to something I might be missing?  Is Lewmar 
> the only source for those seals?  Is there some way to, for example, 
> reinforce the seal to improve its sealing ability?
> 
> It's not the money, its the availability of the part that's driving me crazy. 
>  
> 
> Thanks for your help, 
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Disagree with Marek if you just want a gentle daysail. 27's point about 
10degrees below full rig heading but quite acceptable for fun sailing, 
especially with non-sailing guests.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 2, 2017, at 10:51 PM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Dave,

I suggest you get your sails measured by your local sailmaker. He will be glad 
to do it if you bring them for a preseason inspection.

My sailmaker does not like to talk in term of no1-2-3 or %, he prefers to use 
the sail area measurements in square meters. This way you can really compare 
the horsepower of your sailplan and see what is missing to match the different 
wind conditions. This is really interesting in the design process of a new sail.

Becassine wardrobe was composed of a triradial cruising laminate "large" no. 3 
that equals 110% ( ok I admit I don't remember the m2...) the PO also had a 
light Mylar decksweeper no1 150%.

Like you I wanted to have a no2 and asked for a 135%. My sailmaker suggested a 
sail area that would just cleared in front of the top spreaders going close 
upwind. His model showed that this would perform better than a slightly larger 
135, as I would not be able to sheet it in as much clausehauled. The result was 
about 132%. I climbed the rig to double check every measurements to be sure he 
had the right ones. I have the Offshore spar mast on my boat

This sail is really nice, but honestly I don't use it as much as I thought I 
would. When racing I often choose to go big with the tired 150% or with the 110 
when it really blows. It seems I don't have much of the in between in my area. 
But when I do, I am first at the weather mark!

You are right that the 33-2 is really responsive to sail trim. Very rewarding 
little boat.

Bruno lachance
Becassine, 1987 33-2
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 2 mai 2017 à 21:10, Syerdave--- via CnC-List 
> a écrit :

An interesting discussion, and agreed on that.   I don't like sailing under 
headsail alone, but would rather balance the sailplan, play the main sheet in 
the puffs and tweak the Main's twist and shape with the baby stay, outhaul, 
traveller.  vs many boats I've sailed the 33-2 is so responsive you can feel 
the impact of minor changes.   Really looking forward to flying my new main 
this season.   Keeping the helm light (balance) and the boat on its its feet 
(not overpowered) works best for me.
First I reef, then I furl, but I really hate the Furler  as a sail reduction 
device.   According to the sailbags, I have a #1 and #3.   There have been 
times I wished I had one in between, and it would probably be useful.   Don't 
know how these equate in terms of % of foretriangle.   Anyone know this for a 
33-2?
Several listers referred me to the "maximum sailpower" blog awhile back, and 
that was an eyeopener into many finer points of sail trim and design that I did 
not fully appreciate.
Looking forward to some warmer weather here

Dave 33-2 Windstar
Toronto area.

On May 2, 2017, at 8:09 PM, Jake Brodersen 
> wrote:

Ron,

You are so right.  I have had several occasions when keeping the #1 genoa up, 
with a reef in the main, resulted in a very balanced (and under control) boat.

Jake



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

I remember sailing a 35-2 in heavy air with jib and main and had to have more 
than 6deg of rudder angle to keep it going.  Seemed like we needed to take a 
tuck in the main and use a larger jib for better balance.
The old rule was "keep the power up front."
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Dave,

I suggest you get your sails measured by your local sailmaker. He will be glad 
to do it if you bring them for a preseason inspection.

My sailmaker does not like to talk in term of no1-2-3 or %, he prefers to use 
the sail area measurements in square meters. This way you can really compare 
the horsepower of your sailplan and see what is missing to match the different 
wind conditions. This is really interesting in the design process of a new sail.

Becassine wardrobe was composed of a triradial cruising laminate "large" no. 3 
that equals 110% ( ok I admit I don't remember the m2...) the PO also had a 
light Mylar decksweeper no1 150%.

Like you I wanted to have a no2 and asked for a 135%. My sailmaker suggested a 
sail area that would just cleared in front of the top spreaders going close 
upwind. His model showed that this would perform better than a slightly larger 
135, as I would not be able to sheet it in as much clausehauled. The result was 
about 132%. I climbed the rig to double check every measurements to be sure he 
had the right ones. I have the Offshore spar mast on my boat

This sail is really nice, but honestly I don't use it as much as I thought I 
would. When racing I often choose to go big with the tired 150% or with the 110 
when it really blows. It seems I don't have much of the in between in my area. 
But when I do, I am first at the weather mark!

You are right that the 33-2 is really responsive to sail trim. Very rewarding 
little boat.

Bruno lachance
Becassine, 1987 33-2
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 2 mai 2017 à 21:10, Syerdave--- via CnC-List 
> a écrit :

An interesting discussion, and agreed on that.   I don't like sailing under 
headsail alone, but would rather balance the sailplan, play the main sheet in 
the puffs and tweak the Main's twist and shape with the baby stay, outhaul, 
traveller.  vs many boats I've sailed the 33-2 is so responsive you can feel 
the impact of minor changes.   Really looking forward to flying my new main 
this season.   Keeping the helm light (balance) and the boat on its its feet 
(not overpowered) works best for me.
First I reef, then I furl, but I really hate the Furler  as a sail reduction 
device.   According to the sailbags, I have a #1 and #3.   There have been 
times I wished I had one in between, and it would probably be useful.   Don't 
know how these equate in terms of % of foretriangle.   Anyone know this for a 
33-2?
Several listers referred me to the "maximum sailpower" blog awhile back, and 
that was an eyeopener into many finer points of sail trim and design that I did 
not fully appreciate.
Looking forward to some warmer weather here

Dave 33-2 Windstar
Toronto area.

On May 2, 2017, at 8:09 PM, Jake Brodersen 
> wrote:

Ron,

You are so right.  I have had several occasions when keeping the #1 genoa up, 
with a reef in the main, resulted in a very balanced (and under control) boat.

Jake



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

I remember sailing a 35-2 in heavy air with jib and main and had to have more 
than 6deg of rudder angle to keep it going.  Seemed like we needed to take a 
tuck in the main and use a larger jib for better balance.
The old rule was "keep the power up front."
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don’t like to sail under the jib alone, either and this was the reason for 
getting 2 reef points in my main. Different boat, but this allows for much 
better balanced sailplan.

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Syerdave--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 21:09
To: Jake Brodersen 
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

An interesting discussion, and agreed on that.   I don't like sailing under 
headsail alone, but would rather balance the sailplan, play the main sheet in 
the puffs and tweak the Main's twist and shape with the baby stay, outhaul, 
traveller.  vs many boats I've sailed the 33-2 is so responsive you can feel 
the impact of minor changes.   Really looking forward to flying my new main 
this season.   Keeping the helm light (balance) and the boat on its its feet 
(not overpowered) works best for me.
First I reef, then I furl, but I really hate the Furler  as a sail reduction 
device.   According to the sailbags, I have a #1 and #3.   There have been 
times I wished I had one in between, and it would probably be useful.   Don't 
know how these equate in terms of % of foretriangle.   Anyone know this for a 
33-2?
Several listers referred me to the "maximum sailpower" blog awhile back, and 
that was an eyeopener into many finer points of sail trim and design that I did 
not fully appreciate.
Looking forward to some warmer weather here

Dave 33-2 Windstar
Toronto area.


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement drive belt for Raymarine wheel pilot

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike.   Another reason to regret choosing Raymarine...   aargh.

Dave.  33-2 Windstar.

> On May 2, 2017, at 5:43 PM,  
>  wrote:
> 
> If you have ever bought a replacement drive belt for Raymarine wheel pilot 
> you will know that they are very expensive; up to $90 CDN.
> I have sourced an aftermarket belt on Amazon.com  for $11 us + $5 shipping, 
> via USPS (no duties charged)  It is sold by westcoastresale; part # is 18083, 
> here is the description from Amazon:
> New replacement Belt A18083 a 18083 Autohelm Raymarine Autopilot, Autohelm 
> St4000 st 4000 Mk2, 118 Synchroflex At 5/875 P6/11, st 5000 St5000 mark II 
> wheel
>  
> I have installed it on my SPX-5 wheel pilot and it works fine.  Canadian 
> customers, note that the belt is not available on Amazon.ca but you can still 
> order via amazon.com.
> Hope this helps save someone a few bucks 
>  
> Mike Amirault
> C  Lovely Cruise
> SMSC  NS
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Stus-List Lewmar Coastline Hatch 70 Leak - Guidance Please?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
Our '94 C 37/40+ leaks a little bit through the aft center of our Lewmar 
Coastline Hatch.  I think the problem is the seal, having reattached 2 out of 3 
broken friction levers and tightening down the screws going through the 
plexiglass, and not seeing it leaking between the frame and the deck opening.   
 

Our little hatches don't leak at all, and they too, mostly had broken friction 
levers and attachments (makes me wonder what the prior owner was doing).  I 
have friction latches coming, and they are easily found here in the states.  

I tried to order the seal, but the only place that supposedly had it in stock 
turned out they didn't have it, and the seal has to come all the way from 
England and they're saying it will be 4 weeks or more.  It seems like no one 
really ends up having to replace the seals.
Can anyone give me guidance as to something I might be missing?  Is Lewmar the 
only source for those seals?  Is there some way to, for example, reinforce the 
seal to improve its sealing ability?
It's not the money, its the availability of the part that's driving me crazy.  

Thanks for your help, 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List shroud Tension

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

I'll take some as well Dennis


Paul Hood
'82 C 'Refuge'


I?ll take some too ?


Joe Della Barba
Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 5:05 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tuning the Mast?

Here's a decent start.

http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/masttuning/tuning.htm

Do you have a Loos gauge?  I will send you shroud tensions off list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 3:50 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
> wrote:
Hi Listers,

I'm hoping to head to the boat yard tonight to find I've been splashed! This
weekend I'm going to have to tune the rig, and have no idea of what that
should look like on a 35-1. I had a guide for tuning the j24 I used to sail.
Are there any similar guides, or even general rules of thumb, for tuning the
C?

Thanks,
Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

An interesting discussion, and agreed on that.   I don't like sailing under 
headsail alone, but would rather balance the sailplan, play the main sheet in 
the puffs and tweak the Main's twist and shape with the baby stay, outhaul, 
traveller.  vs many boats I've sailed the 33-2 is so responsive you can feel 
the impact of minor changes.   Really looking forward to flying my new main 
this season.   Keeping the helm light (balance) and the boat on its its feet 
(not overpowered) works best for me.   
First I reef, then I furl, but I really hate the Furler  as a sail reduction 
device.   According to the sailbags, I have a #1 and #3.   There have been 
times I wished I had one in between, and it would probably be useful.   Don't 
know how these equate in terms of % of foretriangle.   Anyone know this for a 
33-2?
Several listers referred me to the "maximum sailpower" blog awhile back, and 
that was an eyeopener into many finer points of sail trim and design that I did 
not fully appreciate.
Looking forward to some warmer weather here

Dave 33-2 Windstar
Toronto area.

> On May 2, 2017, at 8:09 PM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> 
> Ron,
>  
> You are so right.  I have had several occasions when keeping the #1 genoa up, 
> with a reef in the main, resulted in a very balanced (and under control) boat.
>  
> Jake
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
> Frerker via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:24
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35
>  
> I remember sailing a 35-2 in heavy air with jib and main and had to have more 
> than 6deg of rudder angle to keep it going.  Seemed like we needed to take a 
> tuck in the main and use a larger jib for better balance.
> The old rule was "keep the power up front."
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>  
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[G Collins via CnC-List]

I do find it amusing that in 15 knots with just my 135 my boat is as fast as 
with the main up and a smaller jib.  I thought about trying that one on a race 
crew one time but figured they would have tied me up and stuffed me in the 
lazarette.  Thankfully there is that rule saying you have to finish with the 
same crew you started with...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-05-02 8:58 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
Alan,

It seems that the smaller your headsail, the faster you go.  Pretty soon you 
can race bare-headed and be at the front of the fleet.

Seriously, where do you sheet your 105 to?  I am looking to install an inboard 
track for my #3 to the cabin top, just outboard of the cabin top rails.  Right 
now I have genoa track that runs all the way to the shrouds, but the further 
forward the car goes, the worse the sheeting angle.  An inboard track would 
help my pointing immensely.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
[cid:part1.938EAA5C.3C928F79@hotmail.com]




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 14:32
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

Joe:
When I first got my boat, I raced with a 155.  It kept back-winding the main, 
so I tried using a 135  with better results.  I gained six seconds in handicap, 
and there was no noticeable reduction in speed.  Then I tried racing with a 
105.  I gained another three seconds; I sail just as fast, and I point five 
degrees higher.  In fact, I point higher than everyone else in my fleet, and I 
get to the windward mark sooner than the rest of the fleet.  The crew can tack 
faster, and in light air, the sail won't flap around like larger sails will.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Ron,

 

You are so right.  I have had several occasions when keeping the #1 genoa up, 
with a reef in the main, resulted in a very balanced (and under control) boat.

 

Jake

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

 

I remember sailing a 35-2 in heavy air with jib and main and had to have more 
than 6deg of rudder angle to keep it going.  Seemed like we needed to take a 
tuck in the main and use a larger jib for better balance.

The old rule was "keep the power up front."

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for C in general

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Alan,

 

I too suffer from excessive roach.  My light air tactic is to stand on the 
helmsman seat and twang (a technical term) the backstay to release the top 
batten.  It works…most of the time.  The lighter the air, the less backstay 
tension I have.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 15:49
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for C in general

 

Speed isn't the only thing that matters.  Compare your VMG with two different 
size sails.  Even if you were to sail slower with a smaller sail, but point 
higher, you could get around the course faster with a better handicap.  You can 
sail with jib alone, but with much less power.  When you tack with jib alone, 
the wind tends to cause you to tack past your intended course, until you have 
enough speed to come back to your course.  My main has a large roach, and in 
light air, the upper batten catches on the backstay.  When that happens, I have 
to let the traveler go, ease the mainsheet or ease the halyard, until the 
batten frees itself.

Alan

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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Alan,

 

It seems that the smaller your headsail, the faster you go.  Pretty soon you 
can race bare-headed and be at the front of the fleet.

 

Seriously, where do you sheet your 105 to?  I am looking to install an inboard 
track for my #3 to the cabin top, just outboard of the cabin top rails.  Right 
now I have genoa track that runs all the way to the shrouds, but the further 
forward the car goes, the worse the sheeting angle.  An inboard track would 
help my pointing immensely.  

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 14:32
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

 

Joe:

When I first got my boat, I raced with a 155.  It kept back-winding the main, 
so I tried using a 135  with better results.  I gained six seconds in handicap, 
and there was no noticeable reduction in speed.  Then I tried racing with a 
105.  I gained another three seconds; I sail just as fast, and I point five 
degrees higher.  In fact, I point higher than everyone else in my fleet, and I 
get to the windward mark sooner than the rest of the fleet.  The crew can tack 
faster, and in light air, the sail won't flap around like larger sails will.

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

Hi, you may also want to take a look at Lewmar, their #1 model is fine on my 27 
( up to 36 feet supposedly), it runs on Torlon bearings an requires no 
drilling. Price was 400 can$ 3 years ago.
Sylvain 
C 27 mkIII


Envoyé de mon iPhone

> Le 2 mai 2017 à 07:58, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> I had a Harken.  Garhauer is 1/3 the price.
> 
> Joel
>> On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 12:30 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Harken Big Boat Traveler system, if you have a spare G-note or two lying in 
>> between the cushions on your couch. The original Schaefer stuff is obsolete 
>> at best, and not worth repairing. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>>> On 1 May 2017 at 19:10, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not 
>>> turn easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or 
>>> parts to repair the existing system?
>>> 
>>> Cheers, J-G 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Replacement drive belt for Simrad WP30 WP#@

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

For those of us with a Simrad WP30 or WP32, don't buy the French belt
offered on eBay.  The belt you want is a Gates AT5-825-10.

http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/Gates-AT5-825-10-Synchro-Power-Polyurethane-V-Belt-77623091-p28164.htm

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-AT5-825-10-Synchro-Power-Polyurethane-Length/dp/B00CJGH4LQ

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

>
>
>
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Stus-List Replacement drive belt for Raymarine wheel pilot

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

If you have ever bought a replacement drive belt for Raymarine wheel pilot you 
will know that they are very expensive; up to $90 CDN.
I have sourced an aftermarket belt on Amazon.com  for $11 us + $5 shipping, via 
USPS (no duties charged)  It is sold by westcoastresale; part # is 18083, here 
is the description from Amazon: 
New replacement Belt A18083 a 18083 Autohelm Raymarine Autopilot, Autohelm 
St4000 st 4000 Mk2, 118 Synchroflex At 5/875 P6/11, st 5000 St5000 mark II wheel

I have installed it on my SPX-5 wheel pilot and it works fine.  Canadian 
customers, note that the belt is not available on Amazon.ca but you can still 
order via amazon.com.
Hope this helps save someone a few bucks 

Mike Amirault
C  Lovely Cruise
SMSC  NS___

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Stus-List Eberspacher D1L Heater

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

I have an Eberspacher D1L heater on my boat and found a manual online.
Anyone have any experience repairing these and debugging tips? Would be
nice to be able to run it at anchor.

Thanks,

Gene
"Hawk"
C 29-2
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Re: Stus-List Tuning the Mast?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I’ll take some too ☺


Joe Della Barba
Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 5:05 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tuning the Mast?

Here's a decent start.

http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/masttuning/tuning.htm

Do you have a Loos gauge?  I will send you shroud tensions off list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 3:50 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hi Listers,

I'm hoping to head to the boat yard tonight to find I've been splashed! This 
weekend I'm going to have to tune the rig, and have no idea of what that should 
look like on a 35-1. I had a guide for tuning the j24 I used to sail. Are there 
any similar guides, or even general rules of thumb, for tuning the C?

Thanks,
Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY

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Re: Stus-List Tuning the Mast?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Here's a decent start.

http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/masttuning/tuning.htm

Do you have a Loos gauge?  I will send you shroud tensions off list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 3:50 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Listers,
>
> I'm hoping to head to the boat yard tonight to find I've been splashed!
> This weekend I'm going to have to tune the rig, and have no idea of what
> that should look like on a 35-1. I had a guide for tuning the j24 I used to
> sail. Are there any similar guides, or even general rules of thumb, for
> tuning the C?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>  ---
> Snow Goose
> C 35 Mk I
> City Island, NY
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List 3JH2E oil fill

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I can confirm the lower fill does indeed fill the crankcase, same as the
top. And it is an easier access.

1993 C 37/40 xl
LA Neige
Havre de Grace MD
Brian and Manon
thenext14ye...@gmail.com
Facebook blog thenext14years
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Stus-List Tuning the Mast?

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Hi Listers,

I'm hoping to head to the boat yard tonight to find I've been splashed!
This weekend I'm going to have to tune the rig, and have no idea of what
that should look like on a 35-1. I had a guide for tuning the j24 I used to
sail. Are there any similar guides, or even general rules of thumb, for
tuning the C?

Thanks,
Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The fresh water side of the water heater will sit around 35-50 PSI on a boat.
The engine coolant side is about 0-10 or so.
FYI

Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery


Ok, so maybe I go back to testing the heat exchanger with a pump and a bucket 
of water.  The pressure around the boat yard is probably near 30 or 40 lbs or 
so  I may try the "glassblower" method first!

On 5/2/2017 3:26 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
Interestingly, when we took possession of our '94 37/40+, the water heater was 
also bypassed.  The hoses were still connected, but a section had been cut out 
to make the loop.  As a check, I flushed the hoses with clean water (there was 
actually still antifreeze in them which gave me comfort that the heater was 
probably not leaking), and then plugged one end with my finger and blew heavily 
into the other end.  Not a proper pressure check by any means, but it was 
enough to give me some confidence.

Then, I filled the heater with antifreeze & water mix as a stop-gap until I 
could get around to fully flushing the engine and replacing the antifreeze.

It's working great.

I agree that the clear hose is not a good substitute for proper heater hose.

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

Danny - I'm not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high 
coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the nylon-reinforced hose with 
high-temp rated hose.  I've seen the clear hose develop "aneurisms" when under 
high temp and pressure; these will burst and you'll lose all your coolant.

Having said that, it's nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the black 
high-temp hose doesn't allow.  In doing a quick search, it appears that there 
is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available.  This might be a nice option 
if you want to see the coolant flow.  I don't have any personal experience with 
this hose.

- Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, the 
water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the survey.  
Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.

There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger inside 
the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed some 
repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 of her 
30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace 
some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized 
they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.

I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply refused 
to return my call.

My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?

Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3

You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.

Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma

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___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, so maybe I go back to testing the heat exchanger with a pump and a 
bucket of water.  The pressure around the boat yard is probably near 30 
or 40 lbs or so  I may try the "glassblower" method first!



On 5/2/2017 3:26 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
Interestingly, when we took possession of our '94 37/40+, the water 
heater was also bypassed.  The hoses were still connected, but a 
section had been cut out to make the loop.  As a check, I flushed the 
hoses with clean water (there was actually still antifreeze in them 
which gave me comfort that the heater was probably not leaking), and 
then plugged one end with my finger and blew heavily into the other 
end.  Not a proper pressure check by any means, but it was enough to 
give me some confidence.


Then, I filled the heater with antifreeze & water mix as a stop-gap 
until I could get around to fully flushing the engine and replacing 
the antifreeze.


It's working great.

I agree that the clear hose is not a good substitute for proper heater 
hose.

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



*From:* Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Frederick G Street 
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:10 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the 
high coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the 
nylon-reinforced hose with high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear 
hose develop “aneurisms” when under high temp and pressure; these will 
burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.


Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the 
black high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it 
appears that there is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available. 
 This might be a nice option if you want to see the coolant flow.  I 
don’t have any personal experience with this hose.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our 
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power 
breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.


There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat 
exchanger inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection. 
 Well, as i needed some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired 
the yard where she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things. 
 Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace some gauges, repair the 
toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized they had 
completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.


I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they 
simply refused to return my call.


My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the 
issue is?


Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3 



You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump 
water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens 
that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.


Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma


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you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Interestingly, when we took possession of our '94 37/40+, the water heater was 
also bypassed.  The hoses were still connected, but a section had been cut out 
to make the loop.  As a check, I flushed the hoses with clean water (there was 
actually still antifreeze in them which gave me comfort that the heater was 
probably not leaking), and then plugged one end with my finger and blew heavily 
into the other end.  Not a proper pressure check by any means, but it was 
enough to give me some confidence.
Then, I filled the heater with antifreeze & water mix as a stop-gap until I 
could get around to fully flushing the engine and replacing the antifreeze.  

It's working great.
I agree that the clear hose is not a good substitute for proper heater hose.  
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:10 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
   
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high 
coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the nylon-reinforced hose with 
high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear hose develop “aneurisms” when under 
high temp and pressure; these will burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.
Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the black 
high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it appears that there 
is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available.  This might be a nice option 
if you want to see the coolant flow.  I don’t have any personal experience with 
this hose.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, the 
water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the survey.  
Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.

There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger inside 
the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed some 
repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 of her 
30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace 
some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized 
they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.

I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply refused 
to return my call.

My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?

Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3

You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.

Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I should note that I'm also a fan of Garhauer. Guido helped customize my genoa 
cars to fit on my Merriman track, also at no additional charge.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2017, at 2:23 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Garhauer both used a “high” track and drilled a custom hole pattern when they 
> made the traveler for my 38 mk2. The first was to get clearance for the 
> traveler car in the channel on the bridgedeck, the second was to match the 
> hole pattern in the bridgedeck and backing plate that was used for the old 
> 70s vintage traveler. They also made custom turning blocks and cam cleats to 
> facilitate trimming the traveler from behind the helm when single handing. 
> And, BTW, the custom work was NC.
>  
> I agree with Joel, you can’t beat Garhauer. Works as well as Harken, and 
> costs C-notes instead of G-notes. Might be a pound heavier than the Harken – 
> but then it is a 15000 pound boat, so no biggie. And as cool as a Harken 
> windward sheeting car is, that car alone costs more than my entire Garhauer 
> traveler; and for that much, I can manage to release the leeward line when 
> tacking.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
> Wolford via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 9:16 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II
>  
> I replaced the traveler on my 42 with a Schaefer traveler and am very happy 
> with it.  The track and car are robust, and the operation is smooth.  If 
> lining up old holes is an issue, you can call Schaefer and purchase a length 
> of anodized track that has not been drilled (I did this for the baby stay 
> track on my previous boat).  I took the old track and the replacement track 
> to a local machine shop, and for a nominal fee had the new track cut and 
> drilled to fit perfectly.
>  
> From: john sandford via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 8:55 AM
> To: 'Jean-Guy Nadeau' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: john sandford
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II
>  
> Hi J-G
> I am in the middle of replacing my traveller, car, etc.
> The boat came with a Kenyon track 1-1/4, and car with 4 rollers w. SS balls.
> End controls gave it a 3:1 ratio.
> Moving it was like driving over a bunch of potholes, with all the tires flat.
> Found a Harken 32mm track with 4” centres drilled, same as the Kenyon.
> The Harken track uses 5/16” FH screws, the Kenyon ¼”. So I have tapped out 
> the holes to suit.
> Also 4:1 HL Car, and ESP End controls.
> The original track was sitting in a 4” x 1-3/4 Aluminium channel, that 
> unfortunately was not wide enough for the new car.
> I have a strip of EDPE (?) anyway, white plastic 2” x 1” thick, that will go 
> under the new track, and gives the height needed for clearance.
> Also moving the cam cleats to the cabin top either side of the companionway.
> Should be done in a week or so. ( I had better be, im launching today.)
> Rgds
> John
> Landfall 38
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: Jean-Guy Nadeau [mailto:jgnad...@hotmail.com] 
> Sent: May-01-17 11:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II
>  
> My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn 
> easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to 
> repair the existing system?
> 
> Cheers, J-G
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Garhauer both used a “high” track and drilled a custom hole pattern when they 
made the traveler for my 38 mk2. The first was to get clearance for the 
traveler car in the channel on the bridgedeck, the second was to match the hole 
pattern in the bridgedeck and backing plate that was used for the old 70s 
vintage traveler. They also made custom turning blocks and cam cleats to 
facilitate trimming the traveler from behind the helm when single handing. And, 
BTW, the custom work was NC.

 

I agree with Joel, you can’t beat Garhauer. Works as well as Harken, and costs 
C-notes instead of G-notes. Might be a pound heavier than the Harken – but then 
it is a 15000 pound boat, so no biggie. And as cool as a Harken windward 
sheeting car is, that car alone costs more than my entire Garhauer traveler; 
and for that much, I can manage to release the leeward line when tacking.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 9:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

 

I replaced the traveler on my 42 with a Schaefer traveler and am very happy 
with it.  The track and car are robust, and the operation is smooth.  If lining 
up old holes is an issue, you can call Schaefer and purchase a length of 
anodized track that has not been drilled (I did this for the baby stay track on 
my previous boat).  I took the old track and the replacement track to a local 
machine shop, and for a nominal fee had the new track cut and drilled to fit 
perfectly.

 

From: john sandford via CnC-List   

Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 8:55 AM

To: 'Jean-Guy Nadeau'   ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  

Cc: john sandford   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

 

Hi J-G

I am in the middle of replacing my traveller, car, etc.

The boat came with a Kenyon track 1-1/4, and car with 4 rollers w. SS balls.

End controls gave it a 3:1 ratio.

Moving it was like driving over a bunch of potholes, with all the tires flat.

Found a Harken 32mm track with 4” centres drilled, same as the Kenyon.

The Harken track uses 5/16” FH screws, the Kenyon ¼”. So I have tapped out the 
holes to suit.

Also 4:1 HL Car, and ESP End controls.

The original track was sitting in a 4” x 1-3/4 Aluminium channel, that 
unfortunately was not wide enough for the new car.

I have a strip of EDPE (?) anyway, white plastic 2” x 1” thick, that will go 
under the new track, and gives the height needed for clearance.

Also moving the cam cleats to the cabin top either side of the companionway.

Should be done in a week or so. ( I had better be, im launching today.)

Rgds

John

Landfall 38

 

 

 

 

From: Jean-Guy Nadeau [mailto:jgnad...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: May-01-17 11:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

 

My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn 
easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to 
repair the existing system?

Cheers, J-G 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Water heater mystery

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

+1
The *coolant side* would be maybe 10 or 15 PSI max. 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mitchell's 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 2:02 PM
To: CNC List 
Cc: Mitchell's 
Subject: Stus-List Water heater mystery

Danny, not sure I would test that high a pressure. The coolant pressure won't 
be as high as your domestic water pressure. You could pressurize the tank with 
fresh water and test the bypass loop by opening the loop caps if they are 
capped. If the loop leaks it can be easily repaired. But that doesn't deal with 
the original issue of a tripping breaker! Perhaps the element is burned or 
shorted. Maybe the tank is leaking on the thermostat? Lots of things to look 
at. Good luck, Len

Sent from my mobile device. 

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Stus-List Water heater mystery

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Danny, not sure I would test that high a pressure. The coolant pressure won't 
be as high as your domestic water pressure. You could pressurize the tank with 
fresh water and test the bypass loop by opening the loop caps if they are 
capped. If the loop leaks it can be easily repaired. But that doesn't deal with 
the original issue of a tripping breaker! Perhaps the element is burned or 
shorted. Maybe the tank is leaking on the thermostat? Lots of things to look 
at. Good luck, Len

Sent from my mobile device. 

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Stus-List 3JH2E Oil fill.

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

On my Yanmar 3JH2E there is an oil fill cap on the top of the engine, which I 
use to add oil. There is another, lower down, in front of the injection pump. 
Are both for filling the crankcase lube oil?

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 30/40+
Vancouver 


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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Just as an FYI, here is the heater setup.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mp3gif8d6_wPOkLJR

Getting that out will not be an easy job!

Danny


On 5/2/2017 12:09 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the 
high coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the 
nylon-reinforced hose with high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear 
hose develop “aneurisms” when under high temp and pressure; these will 
burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.


Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the 
black high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it 
appears that there is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available. 
 This might be a nice option if you want to see the coolant flow.  I 
don’t have any personal experience with this hose.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our 
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power 
breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.


There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat 
exchanger inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection. 
 Well, as i needed some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired 
the yard where she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things. 
 Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace some gauges, repair the 
toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized they had 
completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.


I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they 
simply refused to return my call.


My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the 
issue is?


Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3 



You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump 
water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens 
that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.


Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, So, the first think to do would be to pressurize it and then, if i 
don't see any leaks, get some appropriate hose.  given that the working 
pressure is 150 and the test pressure is 300, hooking up a hose should 
not be a problem.  I think I'll go that route.  I tell you, getting 12 
gals of hot water on board will go a VERY long way to making the admiral 
happy!!  Fingers crossed this heater will get some use!


Thanks guys!


On 5/2/2017 12:09 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the 
high coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the 
nylon-reinforced hose with high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear 
hose develop “aneurisms” when under high temp and pressure; these will 
burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.


Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the 
black high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it 
appears that there is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available. 
 This might be a nice option if you want to see the coolant flow.  I 
don’t have any personal experience with this hose.


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our 
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power 
breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.


There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat 
exchanger inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection. 
 Well, as i needed some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired 
the yard where she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things. 
 Drain the old fuel, replace filters, replace some gauges, repair the 
toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I realized they had 
completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from 
the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me about.


I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they 
simply refused to return my call.


My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the 
issue is?


Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3 



You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump 
water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens 
that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.


Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Yup.
During the earlier part of hurricane Charlie trying to escape upwind, we had a 
triple reef in the main and the #3 up. The boat balanced pretty well that way.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

I remember sailing a 35-2 in heavy air with jib and main and had to have more 
than 6deg of rudder angle to keep it going.  Seemed like we needed to take a 
tuck in the main and use a larger jib for better balance.
The old rule was "keep the power up front."
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL



From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" >
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

The MK I C 35 at least is going no place with a working jib in light air - 
the boat is very headsail dependent. So much so we never used the first reef in 
the main offshore - if you need to reef at all, you need the 2nd or 3rd ;)
I wish the jib was enough, I could just use that and save some cash. So given 
that, I can't see going as small as 100, no matter how easy it is to handle. So 
far I am thinking maybe 125? I used to have a 145 mylar laminate furling jib 
with a foam luff. When it was good, it was very good. When the sail started to 
delaminate and get mold in the middle of it..not so much.
Joe
Coquina
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I remember sailing a 35-2 in heavy air with jib and main and had to have more 
than 6deg of rudder angle to keep it going.  Seemed like we needed to take a 
tuck in the main and use a larger jib for better balance.The old rule was "keep 
the power up front."RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
 Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 10:49 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35
   
The MK I C 35 at least is going no place with a working jib in light air - 
the boat is very headsail dependent. So much so we never used the first reef in 
the main offshore - if you need to reef at all, you need the 2nd or 3rd ;)
I wish the jib was enough, I could just use that and save some cash. So given 
that, I can't see going as small as 100, no matter how easy it is to handle. So 
far I am thinking maybe 125? I used to have a 145 mylar laminate furling jib 
with a foam luff. When it was good, it was very good. When the sail started to 
delaminate and get mold in the middle of it..not so much.
Joe
Coquina

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high 
coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the nylon-reinforced hose with 
high-temp rated hose.  I’ve seen the clear hose develop “aneurisms” when under 
high temp and pressure; these will burst and you’ll lose all your coolant.

Having said that, it’s nice to be able to see coolant flow, which the black 
high-temp hose doesn’t allow.  In doing a quick search, it appears that there 
is now silicone high-temp (500F) hose available.  This might be a nice option 
if you want to see the coolant flow.  I don’t have any personal experience with 
this hose.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 2, 2017, at 10:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat, 
> the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the 
> survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.
> 
> There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger 
> inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed 
> some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent 26 
> of her 30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace filters, 
> replace some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the boat home I 
> realized they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat exchanger 
> tubing from the water heater to the engine and never said anything to me 
> about.
> 
> I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply 
> refused to return my call.
> 
> My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue is?
> 
> Here is a pic at survey.
> 
> https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3 
> 
> 
> You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
> connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water 
> through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.  
> Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.
> 
> Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!
> 
> Danny
> Mattapoisett, Ma

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Danny,

That is not heater hose.  I would see if it is temperature rated for 180
degree water!  I just bought a 50 foot roll from Amazon because it was
cheaper than 15 feet at West.   If you were nearby, I'd give you the rest.

Yes, I'd hook up a hose and see if there is a leak.  They likely bypassed
it for a reason.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 11:56 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our boat,
> the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power breaker at the
> survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.
>
> There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger
> inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i needed
> some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where she spent
> 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, replace
> filters, replace some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I got the
> boat home I realized they had completely disconnected and bypassed the heat
> exchanger tubing from the water heater to the engine and never said
> anything to me about.
>
> I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply
> refused to return my call.
>
> My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue
> is?
>
> Here is a pic at survey.
>
> https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3
>
> You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two
> connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump water
> through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens that way.
> Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.
>
> Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!
>
> Danny
> Mattapoisett, Ma
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List Water heater Mystery

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello all,

Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our 
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power 
breaker at the survey.  Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.


There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger 
inside the water heater.  This was hooked at inspection.  Well, as i 
needed some repairs done for the delivery home, I hired the yard where 
she spent 26 of her 30 years to fix a few things.  Drain the old fuel, 
replace filters, replace some gauges, repair the toilet.  Well, after I 
got the boat home I realized they had completely disconnected and 
bypassed the heat exchanger tubing from the water heater to the engine 
and never said anything to me about.


I called and called and called to try and find out why but, they simply 
refused to return my call.


My question now is, should i just hook it back up and see what the issue 
is?


Here is a pic at survey.

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mn1uGbsxTIdKR5WX3

You can see where nylon reinforced hose is attached.  Now, those two 
connections are by passed.  I guess I could hook up a pump and pump 
water through the heat exchanger and see if anything horrible happens 
that way.  Then, at least, i wouldn't get antifreeze all over the place.


Anyway, any insights, advice or observations will be great appreciated!

Danny
Mattapoisett, Ma


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Joe,

North is coming out with a new dacron 3di hybrid that is supposed to be the
same price as North's dacron.  Might be worth a look.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 11:48 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The MK I C 35 at least is going no place with a working jib in light air
> - the boat is very headsail dependent. So much so we never used the first
> reef in the main offshore - if you need to reef at all, you need the 2nd or
> 3rd ;)
> I wish the jib was enough, I could just use that and save some cash. So
> given that, I can't see going as small as 100, no matter how easy it is to
> handle. So far I am thinking maybe 125? I used to have a 145 mylar laminate
> furling jib with a foam luff. When it was good, it was very good. When the
> sail started to delaminate and get mold in the middle of it..not so
> much.
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 3:27 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert 
> Subject: Stus-List Sail advice for 35
>
> Boat with a full suite of sailsI started with a North tri-radial 150%
> dacron headsail and a main sail.  I sail solely a lot and use mainly the
> headsail .around here, summer winds in the outer harbor can be in the
> +15 mph range...found the 150% too much sail much/most of the time,
> switched to a cross cut 135% dacron.must better sail, less heal, more
> comfortable tacking/trimming, and almost as fastI like the Doyle
> 135%.and I have a Sobstad 100% that I use mainly in the Spring and Fall
> when the winds are consistently +15 mphthe 100% is beginning to be my
> preferred head sail, especially if I am using my main sail.
>
> I can furl my 135% down to 100% but I don't like doing it when sailing to
> weatherI'd rather have my flat 100%off wind furled isn't so bad.
>
> So, I am favoring my 100% over the larger head sails.however, I am
> just pleasure sailing, not trying to go as fast as possible all the time.
>
> Launched last Mondaymight get the mast stepped this weekwill it be
> the 100% or 135% that he chooses first?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2017-05-01 3:32 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
> > Joe:
> >
> > When I first got my boat, I raced with a 155.  It kept back-winding
> > the main, so I tried using a 135  with better results.  I gained six
> > seconds in handicap, and there was no noticeable reduction in speed.
> > Then I tried racing with a 105.  I gained another three seconds; I
> > sail just as fast, and I point five degrees higher.  In fact, I point
> > higher than everyone else in my fleet, and I get to the windward mark
> > sooner than the rest of the fleet.  The crew can tack faster, and in
> > light air, the sail won't flap around like larger sails will.
> >
> > Alan Bergen
> > 35 Mk III Thirsty
> > Rose City YC
> > Portland, OR
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The MK I C 35 at least is going no place with a working jib in light air - 
the boat is very headsail dependent. So much so we never used the first reef in 
the main offshore - if you need to reef at all, you need the 2nd or 3rd ;)
I wish the jib was enough, I could just use that and save some cash. So given 
that, I can't see going as small as 100, no matter how easy it is to handle. So 
far I am thinking maybe 125? I used to have a 145 mylar laminate furling jib 
with a foam luff. When it was good, it was very good. When the sail started to 
delaminate and get mold in the middle of it..not so much.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 1, 2017 3:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

Boat with a full suite of sailsI started with a North tri-radial 150% 
dacron headsail and a main sail.  I sail solely a lot and use mainly the 
headsail .around here, summer winds in the outer harbor can be in the +15 
mph range...found the 150% too much sail much/most of the time, switched to a 
cross cut 135% dacron.must better sail, less heal, more comfortable 
tacking/trimming, and almost as fastI like the Doyle 135%.and I have a 
Sobstad 100% that I use mainly in the Spring and Fall when the winds are 
consistently +15 mphthe 100% is beginning to be my preferred head sail, 
especially if I am using my main sail.

I can furl my 135% down to 100% but I don't like doing it when sailing to 
weatherI'd rather have my flat 100%off wind furled isn't so bad.

So, I am favoring my 100% over the larger head sails.however, I am just 
pleasure sailing, not trying to go as fast as possible all the time.

Launched last Mondaymight get the mast stepped this weekwill it be the 
100% or 135% that he chooses first?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-05-01 3:32 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
> Joe:
>
> When I first got my boat, I raced with a 155.  It kept back-winding 
> the main, so I tried using a 135  with better results.  I gained six 
> seconds in handicap, and there was no noticeable reduction in speed.
> Then I tried racing with a 105.  I gained another three seconds; I 
> sail just as fast, and I point five degrees higher.  In fact, I point 
> higher than everyone else in my fleet, and I get to the windward mark 
> sooner than the rest of the fleet.  The crew can tack faster, and in 
> light air, the sail won't flap around like larger sails will.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>


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Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I replaced the traveler on my 42 with a Schaefer traveler and am very happy 
with it.  The track and car are robust, and the operation is smooth.  If lining 
up old holes is an issue, you can call Schaefer and purchase a length of 
anodized track that has not been drilled (I did this for the baby stay track on 
my previous boat).  I took the old track and the replacement track to a local 
machine shop, and for a nominal fee had the new track cut and drilled to fit 
perfectly.

From: john sandford via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 8:55 AM
To: 'Jean-Guy Nadeau' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: john sandford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

Hi J-G

I am in the middle of replacing my traveller, car, etc.

The boat came with a Kenyon track 1-1/4, and car with 4 rollers w. SS balls.

End controls gave it a 3:1 ratio.

Moving it was like driving over a bunch of potholes, with all the tires flat.

Found a Harken 32mm track with 4” centres drilled, same as the Kenyon.

The Harken track uses 5/16” FH screws, the Kenyon ¼”. So I have tapped out the 
holes to suit.

Also 4:1 HL Car, and ESP End controls.

The original track was sitting in a 4” x 1-3/4 Aluminium channel, that 
unfortunately was not wide enough for the new car.

I have a strip of EDPE (?) anyway, white plastic 2” x 1” thick, that will go 
under the new track, and gives the height needed for clearance.

Also moving the cam cleats to the cabin top either side of the companionway.

Should be done in a week or so. ( I had better be, im launching today.)

Rgds

John

Landfall 38

 

 

 

 

From: Jean-Guy Nadeau [mailto:jgnad...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: May-01-17 11:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

 

My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn 
easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to 
repair the existing system?

Cheers, J-G 




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Hi J-G

I am in the middle of replacing my traveller, car, etc.

The boat came with a Kenyon track 1-1/4, and car with 4 rollers w. SS balls.

End controls gave it a 3:1 ratio.

Moving it was like driving over a bunch of potholes, with all the tires flat.

Found a Harken 32mm track with 4” centres drilled, same as the Kenyon.

The Harken track uses 5/16” FH screws, the Kenyon ¼”. So I have tapped out the 
holes to suit.

Also 4:1 HL Car, and ESP End controls.

The original track was sitting in a 4” x 1-3/4 Aluminium channel, that 
unfortunately was not wide enough for the new car.

I have a strip of EDPE (?) anyway, white plastic 2” x 1” thick, that will go 
under the new track, and gives the height needed for clearance.

Also moving the cam cleats to the cabin top either side of the companionway.

Should be done in a week or so. ( I had better be, im launching today.)

Rgds

John

Landfall 38

 

 

 

 

From: Jean-Guy Nadeau [mailto:jgnad...@hotmail.com] 
Sent: May-01-17 11:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

 

My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn 
easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to 
repair the existing system?

Cheers, J-G 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Winch Handle Pockets

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Look up 3m - they have industrial Velcro which is much stronger than the
homecenter variety.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch Handle Pockets

 

An easy fix would be to buy some adhesive Velcro tape and try if it would
hold. Some are better than others.

 

Marek

Ottawa, ON

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows
10

 

From: RANDY via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 00:21
To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY  
Subject: Stus-List Winch Handle Pockets

 

When I bought Grenadine she had two Ronstan winch handle pockets - the kind
with a velcro panel that sticks onto the boat with adhesive, then the pocket
itself velcros to that panel.

 

The other day I caught my shoe on the one in the cockpit, and pulled off the
pocket, velcro panel and all (the adhesive failed).  I contacted the company
and they don't sell replacement panels, and the customer service rep didn't
know what kind of adhesive was on it.

 

Anybody have a favorite winch handle pocket?  Or could recommend an adhesive
for re-glueing the velcro panel in the cockpit?

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winch Handle Pockets

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

An easy fix would be to buy some adhesive Velcro tape and try if it would hold. 
Some are better than others.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: RANDY via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 00:21
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List Winch Handle Pockets

When I bought Grenadine she had two Ronstan winch handle pockets - the kind 
with a velcro panel that sticks onto the boat with adhesive, then the pocket 
itself velcros to that panel.

The other day I caught my shoe on the one in the cockpit, and pulled off the 
pocket, velcro panel and all (the adhesive failed).  I contacted the company 
and they don't sell replacement panels, and the customer service rep didn't 
know what kind of adhesive was on it.

Anybody have a favorite winch handle pocket?  Or could recommend an adhesive 
for re-glueing the velcro panel in the cockpit?

Cheers,
Randy

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk II

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I had a Harken.  Garhauer is 1/3 the price.

Joel
On Tue, May 2, 2017 at 12:30 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Harken Big Boat Traveler system, if you have a spare G-note or two lying
> in between the cushions on your couch. The original Schaefer stuff is
> obsolete at best, and not worth repairing.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 1 May 2017 at 19:10, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not
>> turn easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or
>> parts to repair the existing system?
>>
>> Cheers, J-G
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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