Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I switched to Makita drills a few years ago.  Never looked back.

Dennis C

On May 23, 2017 1:22 PM, "robert via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Tried charging the battery today.it's toastI put it in the
driveway, attached the charger and battery via extension cord because I did
not want to be near the battery if something bad happened, like
exploding,.battery won't take a charge.

On the hunt now for a new DeWalt.it's not life threatening.it's
only moneyno worries.

Rob Abbott

ZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-23 1:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

I would disassemble it.  The drill might be salvageable if you can prevent
the internal electronics from corroding away.  The battery on the other
hand, it is probably shot.  Being a lithium-ion battery, it has an internal
circuit board which has been powered up the entire time.

With the cost of most batteries you'd probably spend near the cost of the
drill just to replace the battery.

Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 23, 2017 8:58 AM, "robert via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion battery
powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of salt
water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able to
retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it later
with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage.

Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Ditto.I'm crying in my beer.

Bill ColemanC 39, Erie PA

 Original message 
From: Craig Cochran via CnC-List  
Date: 5/23/17  15:31  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Craig Cochran  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed 


As a 39 owner, that's painfull 



 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  

Date: 23/05/2017 16:59 (GMT+00:00) 

To: C List  

Cc: Josh Muckley  

Subject: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed 





Somebody looking for a cheap project boat?  Kills me to see a boat get 
destroyed.



https://www.facebook.com/groups/sailboatsforsale/permalink/1536653003119915/?sale_post_id=1536653003119915



Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 


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Re: Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Hi David

No, I'd rather keep it in case something happens to one of the ones I have.
Or if I need to change them all out again, then I'd only need to buy a
pair...

Jim

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 May 2017 at 10:56, David via CnC-List  wrote:

> Jim,
>
>
> Did you want to sell the extra?   I need just one.
>
>
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Indigo via
> CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 16, 2017 9:40 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Indigo
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII
>
> The ones I got from Rex are chrome plated zinc alloy (0808DP0CHR)
>
> Can't recall how the hood side of the hinges are attached, but seem to
> remember that they were attached with nut and bolt, but seem to remember
> that nut just spun when I tried to replace a broken hinge in the past
> requiring removal of the hood. I plan to epoxy the nuts in place so broken
> hinges can be replaced more easily in the future!
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On May 15, 2017, at 21:02, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Yes, I still have one as a backup.
>
> That hinge stock number is actually 0951DP1CHR.
>
> Perko also makes the same hinge in zinc, which is what C used in the
> first place, at least on my boat. Part number for that is 0808DP0CHR.
>
> The zinc ones are way cheaper than the bronze ones, but will definitely
> decay faster in salt water. I went cheap, I can replace these about five
> times for the cost of the bronze ones.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 15 May 2017 at 09:44, Indigo via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for this. I contacted Perko and they were able to give me the
>> exact dimensions / hole placements etc and gave me a part number
>> (0851DP1CHR). Found it a local, well stocked marine store shout out to Rex
>> Marine in Norwalk CT!  - NOT West! and confirmed by comparing old to New
>> that is the same!  Only downside is that they come two to a pack and I need
>> 3!!
>>
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>>
>>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

Next time look at eBay/Amazon, usually you can get new batteries for much less 
than the price at hw stores..
Sylvain 
C 27 mkIII


Envoyé de mon iPhone

> Le 23 mai 2017 à 14:42, robert via CnC-List  a écrit :
> 
> Dead LI battery out of garbage and will go to recycleand some guy that 
> fixes cordless tools wants my drill.it's his. for free.
> 
> I want a new Dewalt 14V..enough power for the jobs I do.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
>> On 2017-05-23 3:38 PM, Bill Dakin wrote:
>> LI batteries are recyclable.
>> 
>> Bill Dakin
>> 
>> On May 23, 2017, at 1:23 PM, robert via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Only one battery and it won't accept a charge.now in the garbage.
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I did a small boat that had through bolts. Fortunately the interior was
rolled gelcoat.  After filling and smoothing I rolled gelcoat to match.
Looked good.

I have filled a few holes in Touché's headliner.  I beveled them with a
cone shaped grinding stone in a drill then filled them with gelpaste from
Spectrum Color.  Unfortunately matching the color of your interior might be
difficult.  I'd sure give it a shot with white gelpaste tinted with a tiny
amount of black, yellow and brown.  There are gelpaste kits out there.

Dennis C.

On May 23, 2017 10:24 AM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul,
>
> What did you do about the thru-bolt holes on the inside of your cabin?
> Did you fill or cover those in any way?  Are the leftover holes really
> ugly?
>
> I had *thought* that the thru-bolted windows on my LF38 were a feature /
> desirable attribute (for offshore strength) and that C had just done the
> adhered windows on the more racery boats (37+) because they don't have the
> port strength concern.  But reading Don Casey's article you linked, it
> sounds like the thru-bolts may actually be a liability, because they cause
> cracking when the plastic expands or the boat flexes.  If Don Casey thinks
> VHB is strong enough for offshore then I can probably trust him since he's
> usually conservative in terms of safety factors.
>
> I'll probably do this project in the next year. I was planning to keep the
> thru-bolts but if they're not necessary that will make my wife happy
> because she hates the look inside (ours don't even have cap nuts, just
> nylocks).
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Tue, May 23, 2017 at 5:27 AM,  wrote:
>
>> On 2017-04-25 2:18 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Hi Mark,
>>
>> I installed new ports via VHB tape and Dow 795 using Krylon Fusion to
>> make a bonding mask.   The link to my write up is below.  As already
>> mentioned, the mask provides a nice finished edge hiding the underlying
>> tape and sealant.   I don’t recall the source, but I have read that the
>> Krylon Fusion acts like a bonding primer for the Dow 795 promoting
>> adhesion. (Dow actually sells a clear RTV primer, see Dow PR-1200 )   There
>> are reports from folks on sailing sites who have tested the bonding with
>> and without a Fusion mask, and they report no loss of adhesion.  That
>> stated, if you go with a Fusion mask, then one thin coat is all that is
>> need and likely better than a thicker coat.   But to be honest, I think the
>> greatest detriment to adhesion are your fingers.  Don’t touch the bonding
>> surface, be it Fusion paint or not.  And just before inserting the port,
>> give the surface mounted area one last wipe down with isopropyl and let dry.
>>
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C 38 Landfall
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton, FL
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed

[Craig Cochran via CnC-List]

Wrong side of the Atlantic for me, but asides from the mast and hull, little 
looks to remain.

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 23/05/2017 20:41 (GMT+00:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed

Parts boat for someone who already owns one.

On May 23, 2017 3:32 PM, "Craig Cochran via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
As a 39 owner, that's painfull

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>
Date: 23/05/2017 16:59 (GMT+00:00)
To: C List >
Cc: Josh Muckley >
Subject: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed

Somebody looking for a cheap project boat?  Kills me to see a boat get 
destroyed.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/sailboatsforsale/permalink/1536653003119915/?sale_post_id=1536653003119915

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

[Resend due to embedded photo (not mine) that caused list to auto-block due
to size]:

Oh, so your exterior screws were just wood screws screwed into the cabin
trunk? Is there coring there? (I'm hoping not).  I'm skeptical of Don
Casey's theory that bolts or screws were used in surface mount
installations just to hold the pane in place while the sealant cures. If
they just needed something to hold it in place, one would think a big clamp
would've done the trick. Maybe it's simply a change in theory/opinion on
window security, or perhaps VHB didn't exist in the early 80's.

Here are a few pics of what I have:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NcU92OHFhU1p6b00

Since I have thru-bolts, and no other LF38s seem to have them, my theory
has been that a prior owner installed them because the boat was being
prepared to go offshore. But maybe C did it and the screws vs thrubolts
was just a factory difference or a change they made over the years.

-Patrick


> On Tue, May 23, 2017 at 9:26 AM, Paul E  wrote:
>
>> Patrick,
>>
>> I didn’t have any thru-bolts, just exterior screws with finish washers.
>> I did fill in all imperfections with expo/thickened epoxy.   Below is an
>> inside view (not a very clear one) of a port.
>>
>>
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
>> On May 23, 2017, at 11:22 AM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
>>
>> Paul,
>>
>> What did you do about the thru-bolt holes on the inside of your cabin?
>> Did you fill or cover those in any way?  Are the leftover holes really
>> ugly?
>>
>> I had *thought* that the thru-bolted windows on my LF38 were a feature /
>> desirable attribute (for offshore strength) and that C had just done the
>> adhered windows on the more racery boats (37+) because they don't have the
>> port strength concern.  But reading Don Casey's article you linked, it
>> sounds like the thru-bolts may actually be a liability, because they cause
>> cracking when the plastic expands or the boat flexes.  If Don Casey thinks
>> VHB is strong enough for offshore then I can probably trust him since he's
>> usually conservative in terms of safety factors.
>>
>> I'll probably do this project in the next year. I was planning to keep
>> the thru-bolts but if they're not necessary that will make my wife happy
>> because she hates the look inside (ours don't even have cap nuts, just
>> nylocks).
>>
>> -Patrick
>> 1984 C LF38
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Icom will be running into a lot of “truth in advertising” questions regarding 
this erroneous feature listing, as NMEA 2000 connectivity with AIS is a prime 
reason to buy this unit over many other less expensive radios.  It seems odd 
that the transmission of data through NMEA 2000 would still be listed in ICOM 
literature given this radio is now 3-4 years old.  

If that’s the case, I’m less likely to pay the extra dough for this radio if it 
doesn’t perform as advertised.  With a modern system exclusively relying on 
NMEA 2000 connectivity, why would you resort to running NMEA 0183?

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 3:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

 

>From a cruising forum.

So my partner contacted ICOM UK, who said that despite what is printed in the 
manual, the Icom M506 does not support obtaining a GPS position over NMEA 2000. 
The menu option to select an NMEA 2000 GPS source does nothing.

Apparently they had compatibility issues with different manufacturers' MFDs 
when designing the radio, so at the last minute they pulled support for 
obtaining position information via NMEA 2000. They have asked ICOM Japan for a 
firmware update to fix this, but none has been forthcoming.

So caveat emptor. I would still recommend this radio, on the proviso that you 
are able to provide position info via NMEA 0183. Without it you will still get 
AIS on your plotter (but not the radio), but the radio will not be able to make 
GPS tagged DSC calls, which is obviously concerning.

It's advertised as a fully native NMEA 2000 device, but at this time it is not.

Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: John McKay via CnC-List  >
To: cnc-list  >
Cc: John McKay  >
Sent: Tue, May 23, 2017 9:02 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a schematic of 
everything on it and they have not suggested changes.

 

I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display right next 
(T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the GMI 20 works 
flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between the T's. Garmin cannot 
explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 continues flawlessly.

 

Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.

 

John

 

 

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

 

Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

John – 

 

Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available online.  
N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power consumption of 
all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure you’re inline.  
N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in case that 
accidently happened.  

 

Others can probably provide more thoughts. 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

>From a cruising forum.

So my partner contacted ICOM UK, who said that despite what is printed in the 
manual,  the Icom M506 does not support obtaining a GPS position over NMEA 
2000. The menu option to select an NMEA 2000 GPS source does nothing.

Apparently they had compatibility issues with different manufacturers' MFDs 
when designing the radio, so at the last minute they pulled support for 
obtaining position information via NMEA 2000. They have asked ICOM Japan for a 
firmware update to fix this, but none has been forthcoming.

So caveat emptor. I would still recommend this radio, on the proviso that you 
are able to provide position info via NMEA 0183. Without it you will still get 
AIS on your plotter (but not the radio), but the radio will not be able to make 
GPS tagged DSC calls, which is obviously concerning.

It's advertised as a fully native NMEA 2000 device, but at this time it is not.

Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: John McKay via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: John McKay 
Sent: Tue, May 23, 2017 9:02 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20



I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a schematic of 
everything on it and they have not suggested changes.


I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display right next 
(T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the GMI 20 works 
flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between the T's. Garmin cannot 
explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 continues flawlessly.


Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.


John


 



 
 
 
 On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  

 

Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.






Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI







On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:



John – 
  
Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available online.  
N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power consumption of 
all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure you’re inline.  
N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in case that 
accidently happened.  
  
Others can probably provide more thoughts. 




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Re: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed

[Craig Cochran via CnC-List]

As a 39 owner, that's painfull

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 23/05/2017 16:59 (GMT+00:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed

Somebody looking for a cheap project boat?  Kills me to see a boat get 
destroyed.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/sailboatsforsale/permalink/1536653003119915/?sale_post_id=1536653003119915

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Patrick, I don't have screws or bolts on my Windows.  I did have screws put in 
by a PO. VHB have been holding for a year now. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Paul E via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/23/17  09:32  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Paul E  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Window replacement 
Patrick,
I didn’t have any thru-bolts, just exterior screws with finish washers.  I did 
fill in all screw holes and imperfections with epoxy/thickened epoxy.  


-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna RoseFt Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



Date: Tue, 23 May 2017 08:22:54 -0700
From: Patrick Davin 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" , PME

Subject: Re: Stus-List Window replacement
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul,

What did you do about the thru-bolt holes on the inside of your cabin?  Did
you fill or cover those in any way?  Are the leftover holes really ugly?

I had *thought* that the thru-bolted windows on my LF38 were a feature /
desirable attribute (for offshore strength) and that C had just done the
adhered windows on the more racery boats (37+) because they don't have the
port strength concern.  But reading Don Casey's article you linked, it
sounds like the thru-bolts may actually be a liability, because they cause
cracking when the plastic expands or the boat flexes.  If Don Casey thinks
VHB is strong enough for offshore then I can probably trust him since he's
usually conservative in terms of safety factors.

I'll probably do this project in the next year. I was planning to keep the
thru-bolts but if they're not necessary that will make my wife happy
because she hates the look inside (ours don't even have cap nuts, just
nylocks).

-Patrick
1984 C LF38
Seattle, WA

On Tue, May 23, 2017 at 5:27 AM,  wrote:


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Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[robert via CnC-List]

Dead LI battery out of garbage and will go to recycleand some guy 
that fixes cordless tools wants my drill.it's his. for free.


I want a new Dewalt 14V..enough power for the jobs I do.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-23 3:38 PM, Bill Dakin wrote:

LI batteries are recyclable.

Bill Dakin

On May 23, 2017, at 1:23 PM, robert via CnC-List 
> wrote:



Only one battery and it won't accept a charge.now in the garbage.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

LI batteries are recyclable.

Bill Dakin

> On May 23, 2017, at 1:23 PM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Only one battery and it won't accept a charge.now in the garbage.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
>> On 2017-05-23 2:39 PM, Franklin Schenk wrote:
>> I have heard that the best way to dry an electrical item is to put it in an 
>> oven at low heat.  I have a drill motor like yours that I bought on sale at 
>> Ace hardware.  BTW, I assume you still have a second battery so if you can 
>> salvage the motor you are not at a total loss.
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> 
>> On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 7:58 AM, robert via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion 
>> battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of 
>> salt water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able 
>> to retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it 
>> later with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage.
>> 
>> Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[robert via CnC-List]

Only one battery and it won't accept a charge.now in the garbage.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-23 2:39 PM, Franklin Schenk wrote:
I have heard that the best way to dry an electrical item is to put it 
in an oven at low heat.  I have a drill motor like yours that I bought 
on sale at Ace hardware.  BTW, I assume you still have a second 
battery so if you can salvage the motor you are not at a total loss.


Frank


On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 7:58 AM, robert via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion
battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of
salt water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able
to retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it
later with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage.

Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[robert via CnC-List]

Tried charging the battery today.it's toastI put it in the 
driveway, attached the charger and battery via extension cord because I 
did not want to be near the battery if something bad happened, like 
exploding,.battery won't take a charge.


On the hunt now for a new DeWalt.it's not life threatening.it's 
only moneyno worries.


Rob Abbott
ZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-23 1:35 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
I would disassemble it.  The drill might be salvageable if you can 
prevent the internal electronics from corroding away.  The battery on 
the other hand, it is probably shot.  Being a lithium-ion battery, it 
has an internal circuit board which has been powered up the entire time.


With the cost of most batteries you'd probably spend near the cost of 
the drill just to replace the battery.


Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 23, 2017 8:58 AM, "robert via CnC-List" > wrote:


Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium
ion battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into
12 feet of salt water. It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but
yesterday I was able to retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water,
dried it and sprayed it later with WD-40 and left it to dry out in
the garage.

Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I have heard that the best way to dry an electrical item is to put it in an 
oven at low heat.  I have a drill motor like yours that I bought on sale at Ace 
hardware.  BTW, I assume you still have a second battery so if you can salvage 
the motor you are not at a total loss.
Frank 

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 7:58 AM, robert via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion 
battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of 
salt water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able 
to retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it 
later with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage.

Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I would disassemble it.  The drill might be salvageable if you can prevent
the internal electronics from corroding away.  The battery on the other
hand, it is probably shot.  Being a lithium-ion battery, it has an internal
circuit board which has been powered up the entire time.

With the cost of most batteries you'd probably spend near the cost of the
drill just to replace the battery.

Good luck,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 23, 2017 8:58 AM, "robert via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion battery
powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of salt
water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able to
retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it later
with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage.

Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Paul E via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I didn’t have any thru-bolts, just exterior screws with finish washers.  I did 
fill in all screw holes and imperfections with epoxy/thickened epoxy.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Ft Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> 
> Date: Tue, 23 May 2017 08:22:54 -0700
> From: Patrick Davin 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" , PME
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window replacement
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Paul,
> 
> What did you do about the thru-bolt holes on the inside of your cabin?  Did
> you fill or cover those in any way?  Are the leftover holes really ugly?
> 
> I had *thought* that the thru-bolted windows on my LF38 were a feature /
> desirable attribute (for offshore strength) and that C had just done the
> adhered windows on the more racery boats (37+) because they don't have the
> port strength concern.  But reading Don Casey's article you linked, it
> sounds like the thru-bolts may actually be a liability, because they cause
> cracking when the plastic expands or the boat flexes.  If Don Casey thinks
> VHB is strong enough for offshore then I can probably trust him since he's
> usually conservative in terms of safety factors.
> 
> I'll probably do this project in the next year. I was planning to keep the
> thru-bolts but if they're not necessary that will make my wife happy
> because she hates the look inside (ours don't even have cap nuts, just
> nylocks).
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C LF38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> On Tue, May 23, 2017 at 5:27 AM,  wrote:
> 

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Stus-List C 39 project being trashed

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Somebody looking for a cheap project boat?  Kills me to see a boat get
destroyed.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/sailboatsforsale/permalink/1536653003119915/?sale_post_id=1536653003119915

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Paul,

What did you do about the thru-bolt holes on the inside of your cabin?  Did
you fill or cover those in any way?  Are the leftover holes really ugly?

I had *thought* that the thru-bolted windows on my LF38 were a feature /
desirable attribute (for offshore strength) and that C had just done the
adhered windows on the more racery boats (37+) because they don't have the
port strength concern.  But reading Don Casey's article you linked, it
sounds like the thru-bolts may actually be a liability, because they cause
cracking when the plastic expands or the boat flexes.  If Don Casey thinks
VHB is strong enough for offshore then I can probably trust him since he's
usually conservative in terms of safety factors.

I'll probably do this project in the next year. I was planning to keep the
thru-bolts but if they're not necessary that will make my wife happy
because she hates the look inside (ours don't even have cap nuts, just
nylocks).

-Patrick
1984 C LF38
Seattle, WA

On Tue, May 23, 2017 at 5:27 AM,  wrote:

> On 2017-04-25 2:18 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Mark,
>
> I installed new ports via VHB tape and Dow 795 using Krylon Fusion to make
> a bonding mask.   The link to my write up is below.  As already mentioned,
> the mask provides a nice finished edge hiding the underlying tape and
> sealant.   I don’t recall the source, but I have read that the Krylon
> Fusion acts like a bonding primer for the Dow 795 promoting adhesion. (Dow
> actually sells a clear RTV primer, see Dow PR-1200 )   There are reports
> from folks on sailing sites who have tested the bonding with and without a
> Fusion mask, and they report no loss of adhesion.  That stated, if you go
> with a Fusion mask, then one thin coat is all that is need and likely
> better than a thicker coat.   But to be honest, I think the greatest
> detriment to adhesion are your fingers.  Don’t touch the bonding surface,
> be it Fusion paint or not.  And just before inserting the port, give the
> surface mounted area one last wipe down with isopropyl and let dry.
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Previously, you said Garmin suggested that the radio might be the 
problem. Until you remove it from the circuit and observe that the 
display still locks up without it being present, then you  do not know 
if they are correct or not. Conjecture and assumptions will likely not 
fix the problem. :-)


Bill Bina



On 5/23/2017 9:01 AM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:
I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a 
schematic of everything on it and they have not suggested changes.


I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display 
right next (T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the 
GMI 20 works flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between 
the T's. Garmin cannot explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 
continues flawlessly.


Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.

John



On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



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Re: Stus-List Navico PH 8000 Autopilot Issue

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

How about these, are they close to yours?

 

http://www.simrad-yachting.com/en-US/Products/Discontinued/Navico-H5000-Handprogrammer.aspx

 

http://www.simrad-yachting.com/en-US/Products/All-Discontinued-Products/Navico-PH8000-Powerpilot.aspx

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: May-22-17 22:41
To: C List; John Timm
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Navico PH 8000 Autopilot Issue

 

Hello all,

 

Our new (to us) 1994 C 37/40+ has a Navico PH 8000 autopilot.  The hydraulic 
ram works, as I can get it to turn the wheel to the stops.  I have been able to 
find a manual online for it, but it references the Junction Box/Amplifier unit 
as JA 8000, where ours is clearly labeled JB 8000.  Also, I can't find a manual 
for the wired remote controls, labled H8000 and HP8000.

 

When I engage the autopilot, it turns sharply port, and stays there.  The 
instructions contain no reference to calibrating the fluxgate compass, but the 
Mode button on the wired remote shows a calibrate function, though I can't tell 
if that is the issue.

 

Does anyone here have experience with this autopilot?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[robert via CnC-List]

Gary
Haven't tried to charge the battery yet.wanted it to be really dry 
before plugging it in.


Rob

On 2017-05-23 10:03 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
It may be a lost cause, but it's worth a try.  Just make sure it's 
completely dry before powering it up.  I'm surprised the battery 
didn't melt (salt water shorting the battery).  Did the battery seem 
to charge OK?


Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, May 23, 2017 at 8:58 AM, robert via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium
ion battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into
12 feet of salt water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but
yesterday I was able to retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water,
dried it and sprayed it later with WD-40 and left it to dry out in
the garage.

Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

It may be a lost cause, but it's worth a try.  Just make sure it's
completely dry before powering it up.  I'm surprised the battery didn't
melt (salt water shorting the battery).  Did the battery seem to charge OK?

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, May 23, 2017 at 8:58 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion
> battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of
> salt water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able to
> retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it later
> with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage.
>
> Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a schematic of 
everything on it and they have not suggested changes.
I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display right next 
(T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the GMI 20 works 
flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between the T's. Garmin cannot 
explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 continues flawlessly.
Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.
John
 

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:
John –   Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available 
online.  N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power 
consumption of all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure 
you’re inline.  N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in 
case that accidently happened.    Others can probably provide more thoughts. 
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Stus-List Cordless Drill???

[robert via CnC-List]

Genius here was attaching fenders to the slip with his 'lithium ion 
battery powered 20V drill' and I kicked it over the side into 12 feet of 
salt water.  It stayed on the bottom for 2 days but yesterday I was able 
to retrieve it, flushed it with fresh water, dried it and sprayed it 
later with WD-40 and left it to dry out in the garage.


Is it a 'lost cause'?  Should I have just left it on the bottom?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> John – 
>  
> Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available 
> online.  N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power 
> consumption of all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure 
> you’re inline.  N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just 
> in case that accidently happened.  
>  
> Others can probably provide more thoughts. 
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

John – 

 

Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available online.  
N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power consumption of 
all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure you’re inline.  
N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in case that 
accidently happened.  

 

Others can probably provide more thoughts. 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of BillBinaList 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 5:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: BillBinaList 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

 

Have you determined that the display still locks up with that Radio out of the 
circuit? That seems like a logical first step.

Bill Bina

 

On 5/22/2017 10:37 PM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:

I bought a Garmin wind instrument package a year ago and one of the displays is 
a GNX 20.

 

The display lock continuously. The on/off button does not work. I have to 
disconnect the power. 

 

Garmin says this display works flawlessly. They are trying to tell me the 
problems is because I have an ICOM M604 radio connected to the Garmin system.

 

I am having problem believing this because the M604 is NMEA 2000 compatible.

 

Has anyone had a problem with the GNX 20 display freezing?

 

Did you come up with a fix?

 

Thank you

 

John on Enterprise 33 Mk II

London Ontario

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Have you determined that the display still locks up with that Radio out 
of the circuit? That seems like a logical first step.


Bill Bina


On 5/22/2017 10:37 PM, John McKay via CnC-List wrote:
I bought a Garmin wind instrument package a year ago and one of the 
displays is a GNX 20.


The display lock continuously. The on/off button does not work. I have 
to disconnect the power.


Garmin says this display works flawlessly. They are trying to tell me 
the problems is because I have an ICOM M604 radio connected to the 
Garmin system.


I am having problem believing this because the M604 is NMEA 2000 
compatible.


Has anyone had a problem with the GNX 20 display freezing?

Did you come up with a fix?

Thank you

John on Enterprise 33 Mk II
London Ontario



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