Re: Stus-List Myanmar 3jh2e temp gauge pegged

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Sounds like a bad gauge if it is still pegged with power off. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/19/17  19:01  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC 
discussion list  Cc: bwhitmore  
Subject: Stus-List Myanmar 3jh2e temp gauge pegged 
Hello all,
You can imagine my discomfort when I looked down and found the temperature 
gauge pegged as we were approaching a bridge.
I put my wife on the helm and went down below to check out the engine as water 
flow out the exhaust sounded good and we weren't throwing off steam.  I was 
able to hold my hand with only mild discomfort on the hot water heater hoses.
When I got to the dock I turned off the engine and the gauge stayed pegged.  
When I go to start the engine I can see the gauge jump a little bit.  I've also 
turned off all power entirely including all circuit breakers and the battery 
switches and the gauge stays pegged, so I don't think it is linked to a 
grounded sender.
What say you folks?  Bad gauge?
I have yet to crawl in and disconnect wire at the back of the gauge as a test.  
Will do that next weekend.
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+Astralis Madeira Beach, FL




Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List cc 33-2 shroud tension question

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I have the gauge on my boat and will try to remember to check when I am there 
on Wednesday.
I think I remember, but don't want to say in case I am wrong.
You could check the Loos tension gauge site. It may say.
John on EnterpriseC&C 33 MK IIKomoka Ont
 

On Monday, June 19, 2017 11:43 AM, Hector Saulnier via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  C&C 33 mk2Anyone know the recommended shroud tension settings for the uppers, 
middles and lowers for approx 15-20 knots of wind when racing and backstay 
tension lbs? ThanksHector___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Myanmar 3jh2e temp gauge pegged

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
You can imagine my discomfort when I looked down and found the temperature 
gauge pegged as we were approaching a bridge.
I put my wife on the helm and went down below to check out the engine as water 
flow out the exhaust sounded good and we weren't throwing off steam.  I was 
able to hold my hand with only mild discomfort on the hot water heater hoses.
When I got to the dock I turned off the engine and the gauge stayed pegged.  
When I go to start the engine I can see the gauge jump a little bit.  I've also 
turned off all power entirely including all circuit breakers and the battery 
switches and the gauge stays pegged, so I don't think it is linked to a 
grounded sender.
What say you folks?  Bad gauge?
I have yet to crawl in and disconnect wire at the back of the gauge as a test.  
Will do that next weekend.
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+Astralis Madeira Beach, FL




Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

My first choice. I have been there this afternoon. Bought a few other things. 
It is a candy store.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 20:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Irvin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

Start with Ottawa Fasteners on ROBERTSON Rd

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 19, 2017, at 7:42 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the 
handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple 
replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on 
SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the exchange it 
comes to about $60.

I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs about 
$40.

I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a cheaper 
way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I am thinking 
about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size thread, putting 
some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the handle. The idea is 
that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to the greased bolt. The 
thread is 1/4 - 20.

Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that the 
epoxy won’t adhere to it?

Alternatively, if one knows of a good source, I am all ears. A tractor dealer? 
Some other equipment that might use such a handle?

Thanks in advance

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If the boat has a hot water tank, and it is heated with a bypass from the
engine, too much water going through the bypass would mean less water
cooling the engine.  There should be a valve controlling the amount of hot
water going to the water heater.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 4:49 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks!
>
> On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 6:26 PM Dreuge via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>> I have had some experience with a Yanmar 2QM15 which was in my old C&C 29
>> mk1.  The 2QM15 manual states that at 2000RPM, the raw water pump should
>> deliver 400 l/hr (which is about 1.75 US Gallons/minute).It should be
>> easy to bypass the raw water just before it enters the mixing elbow and
>> measure the flow rate.  If the flow rate is fine, then the problem may be a
>> clogged mixing elbow or even a bad thermostat(see comment below).   If the
>> flow rate is low, then check for free flow of the input line to the water
>> pump. That is, with engine off, disconnect input hose from pump, lift the
>> end above the waterline, open seacock, and lower hose into a bucket to let
>> the water flow in.
>>
>> If the input flow rate & pump impeller are fine whereas the engine output
>> flow is low, then you can look into pickling the engine as suggested.  But
>> to be honest, pickling the engine with vinegar works well for yearly
>> maintenance, but likely won’t remove serious engine scale.  If you suspect
>> a serious scale problem, then use something like Barnacle Buster.  It is
>> best to set up a circulation loop: put 1 gallon BB in a 5gal bucket, use a
>> cheap Walmart-like bilge pump to pump the BB into the engine (after raw
>> water pump), take a hose from the engine output back to the bucket, and the
>> let it run run run.
>>
>> Note that a bad thermostat can cause the engine to overheat.  These can
>> be easily removed and tested. DO NOT run the engine without a thermostat as
>> the thermostat not only allows engine water to flow when open, it also
>> closes the raw water engine bypass as it opens.
>>
>> Also, be sure that the engine is actually over heating.  I once spent
>> some time tracking down an overheating alarm problem when in the end it was
>> a bad temperature sender unit.
>>
>> Scale can be a real problem. Here is a link to Sailnet post I wrote some
>> time back regarding rebuilding a 2QM15.
>>
>> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/90991-yanmar-
>> 2qm15-rebuild.html
>> 
>>
>>
>>  Here is a direct link to photos.   It was amazing how much scale was in
>> the engine.  Ssee photos 12 &13 which shows the inside of the block after
>> removing the cylinder sleeves.  It a big pile of crud.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/sets/72157631067396554/
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>>
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 19, 2017, at 11:24 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 8:25 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Joel Aronson 
>> Subject: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating
>>
>> All,
>>
>> The J30 I race on is overheating.  It's not the impeller.  The engine is
>> 35 years old and salt water cooled.  I pulled the hose off the elbow and
>> blew into it.  There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean
>> anything?). What's next?  Thermostat?  Clean heat exchanger?  Elbow?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Joel
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 

Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

To prevent epoxy from adhering to anything, you can use fiberglass mold
release.  You can also use a fiberglass or automotive paste wax.  Or don't
and just have the handle permanently attached.  Maybe some JB Weld?  JB
Weld Putty?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jun 19, 2017 7:42 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled
> the handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple
> replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it
> on SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the
> exchange it comes to about $60.
>
> I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs
> about $40.
>
> I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a
> cheaper way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I
> am thinking about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size
> thread, putting some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the
> handle. The idea is that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to
> the greased bolt. The thread is 1/4 - 20.
>
> Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that
> the epoxy won’t adhere to it?
>
> Alternatively, if one knows of a good source, I am all ears. A tractor
> dealer? Some other equipment that might use such a handle?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

1. first swapped was a Yanmar 2QM20, current motor is a 80s vintage 
Universal 25 (1600 hrs)


2. sorta

3. Kiwiprop 15 1/2 D & adjustable pitch

4. yes

Notes:
- the A4 was running fine but I wanted better fuel range for cruising 
windless costal days


- the Yanmar was my first acquired "running take-out" until I could 
find a good used Universal 25. the Yanmar was too tall, too heavy & 
too noisy. I don't know how I put up with it for 8 years :)


- I epoxy laminated 2" stock to the outside existing beds for the 
Yanmar and had to bridge the front of the bed with 1/2" aluminum 
plate (just stock on hand) for the narrow forward mounts of the U-25


- prop shaft changed from 7/8" to 1" and extended the tail a bit to 
get hull clearance (requires different cutlass bearing but stock 
item, no problem finding one)


- love the Kiwiprop, 3-blade feathering

- the U-25 came to me as having an overheat problem, head repair once 
and his wife said it's outta hear... but the hose routing looked 
horrible. I sweetened the hose routes, serviced the heat exchanger 
and used a "block & head crack repair" snake oil type product on 
spec. All good so far


Cheers, Russ



At 08:23 AM 19/06/2017, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_000_76ef063ae9d94b5ca5bbcfab8bd87e3eNSCDAG306baadssagov_"

For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:
1.   What engine?
2.   Did it fit on the standard engine bed?
3.   What prop?
4.   Are you using the original strut?
THANKS
Joe
Coquina
_



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Do you have a farm/tractor supply store nearby?  Take the handle there and
see if they have a similar replacement.  Should be about $15.

The engine stop control is something I would want to have confidence in.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 6:41 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled
> the handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple
> replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it
> on SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the
> exchange it comes to about $60.
>
> I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs
> about $40.
>
> I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a
> cheaper way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I
> am thinking about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size
> thread, putting some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the
> handle. The idea is that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to
> the greased bolt. The thread is 1/4 - 20.
>
> Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that
> the epoxy won’t adhere to it?
>
> Alternatively, if one knows of a good source, I am all ears. A tractor
> dealer? Some other equipment that might use such a handle?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Mine did that, I just replaced it with two nuts and a big fender washer.  Works 
for me...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-06-19 8:41 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
Hello,

My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the 
handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple 
replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on 
SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the exchange it 
comes to about $60.

I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs about 
$40.

I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a cheaper 
way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I am thinking 
about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size thread, putting 
some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the handle. The idea is 
that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to the greased bolt. The 
thread is 1/4 - 20.

Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that the 
epoxy won’t adhere to it?

Alternatively, if one knows of a good source, I am all ears. A tractor dealer? 
Some other equipment that might use such a handle?

Thanks in advance

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON







___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Start with Ottawa Fasteners on ROBERTSON Rd

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 19, 2017, at 7:42 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello,

My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the 
handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple 
replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on 
SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the exchange it 
comes to about $60.

I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs about 
$40.

I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a cheaper 
way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I am thinking 
about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size thread, putting 
some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the handle. The idea is 
that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to the greased bolt. The 
thread is 1/4 - 20.

Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that the 
epoxy won’t adhere to it?

Alternatively, if one knows of a good source, I am all ears. A tractor dealer? 
Some other equipment that might use such a handle?

Thanks in advance

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Thanks!

On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 6:26 PM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Joel,
>
> I have had some experience with a Yanmar 2QM15 which was in my old C&C 29
> mk1.  The 2QM15 manual states that at 2000RPM, the raw water pump should
> deliver 400 l/hr (which is about 1.75 US Gallons/minute).It should be
> easy to bypass the raw water just before it enters the mixing elbow and
> measure the flow rate.  If the flow rate is fine, then the problem may be a
> clogged mixing elbow or even a bad thermostat(see comment below).   If the
> flow rate is low, then check for free flow of the input line to the water
> pump. That is, with engine off, disconnect input hose from pump, lift the
> end above the waterline, open seacock, and lower hose into a bucket to let
> the water flow in.
>
> If the input flow rate & pump impeller are fine whereas the engine output
> flow is low, then you can look into pickling the engine as suggested.  But
> to be honest, pickling the engine with vinegar works well for yearly
> maintenance, but likely won’t remove serious engine scale.  If you suspect
> a serious scale problem, then use something like Barnacle Buster.  It is
> best to set up a circulation loop: put 1 gallon BB in a 5gal bucket, use a
> cheap Walmart-like bilge pump to pump the BB into the engine (after raw
> water pump), take a hose from the engine output back to the bucket, and the
> let it run run run.
>
> Note that a bad thermostat can cause the engine to overheat.  These can be
> easily removed and tested. DO NOT run the engine without a thermostat as
> the thermostat not only allows engine water to flow when open, it also
> closes the raw water engine bypass as it opens.
>
> Also, be sure that the engine is actually over heating.  I once spent some
> time tracking down an overheating alarm problem when in the end it was a
> bad temperature sender unit.
>
> Scale can be a real problem. Here is a link to Sailnet post I wrote some
> time back regarding rebuilding a 2QM15.
>
>
> http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/90991-yanmar-2qm15-rebuild.html
>
>
>  Here is a direct link to photos.   It was amazing how much scale was in
> the engine.  Ssee photos 12 &13 which shows the inside of the block after
> removing the cylinder sleeves.  It a big pile of crud.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/sets/72157631067396554/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 19, 2017, at 11:24 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 8:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating
>
> All,
>
> The J30 I race on is overheating.  It's not the impeller.  The engine is
> 35 years old and salt water cooled.  I pulled the hose off the elbow and
> blew into it.  There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean
> anything?). What's next?  Thermostat?  Clean heat exchanger?  Elbow?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Joel
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List engine shut-off t-handle repair or replacement

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Hello,

My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the 
handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple 
replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on 
SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the exchange it 
comes to about $60.

I considered a proper thread insert, but a kit with a dozen inserts costs about 
$40.

I am thinking that there should be a way to restore the threads in a cheaper 
way. I was wondering if anyone has a reasonable way to do that. I am thinking 
about spreading some grease on a bolt with the correct size thread, putting 
some epoxy into the hole, and threading the bolt into the handle. The idea is 
that the epoxy should attach to the handle and not to the greased bolt. The 
thread is 1/4 - 20.

Am I completely out to lunch? Any ideas how to prepare he bolt, so that the 
epoxy won't adhere to it?

Alternatively, if one knows of a good source, I am all ears. A tractor dealer? 
Some other equipment that might use such a handle?

Thanks in advance

Marek

1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Joel,

I have had some experience with a Yanmar 2QM15 which was in my old C&C 29 mk1.  
The 2QM15 manual states that at 2000RPM, the raw water pump should deliver 400 
l/hr (which is about 1.75 US Gallons/minute).It should be easy to bypass 
the raw water just before it enters the mixing elbow and measure the flow rate. 
 If the flow rate is fine, then the problem may be a clogged mixing elbow or 
even a bad thermostat(see comment below).   If the flow rate is low, then check 
for free flow of the input line to the water pump. That is, with engine off, 
disconnect input hose from pump, lift the end above the waterline, open 
seacock, and lower hose into a bucket to let the water flow in.   

If the input flow rate & pump impeller are fine whereas the engine output flow 
is low, then you can look into pickling the engine as suggested.  But to be 
honest, pickling the engine with vinegar works well for yearly maintenance, but 
likely won’t remove serious engine scale.  If you suspect a serious scale 
problem, then use something like Barnacle Buster.  It is best to set up a 
circulation loop: put 1 gallon BB in a 5gal bucket, use a cheap Walmart-like 
bilge pump to pump the BB into the engine (after raw water pump), take a hose 
from the engine output back to the bucket, and the let it run run run. 

Note that a bad thermostat can cause the engine to overheat.  These can be 
easily removed and tested. DO NOT run the engine without a thermostat as the 
thermostat not only allows engine water to flow when open, it also closes the 
raw water engine bypass as it opens.  

Also, be sure that the engine is actually over heating.  I once spent some time 
tracking down an overheating alarm problem when in the end it was a bad 
temperature sender unit.  

Scale can be a real problem. Here is a link to Sailnet post I wrote some time 
back regarding rebuilding a 2QM15.  

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/90991-yanmar-2qm15-rebuild.html


 Here is a direct link to photos.   It was amazing how much scale was in the 
engine.  Ssee photos 12 &13 which shows the inside of the block after removing 
the cylinder sleeves.  It a big pile of crud.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/sets/72157631067396554/







-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> On Jun 19, 2017, at 11:24 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 8:25 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating
> 
> All,
> 
> The J30 I race on is overheating.  It's not the impeller.  The engine is 35 
> years old and salt water cooled.  I pulled the hose off the elbow and blew 
> into it.  There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean 
> anything?). What's next?  Thermostat?  Clean heat exchanger?  Elbow?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Joel
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Don

No missed it. I'll check the connections too!

Thanks
Joel

On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 3:48 PM DON JONSSON  wrote:

> Hi
>
> I don't know if you read my earlier email where we were having a related
> problem.  In our case it ended up being an air leak in the gasket for the
> strainer.
>
> We tested everything else.  Ran water forward and backwards through the
> engine via the hole for the thermostat and the cylinder intake coupler.
>
> Don
> --
> *From: *"Joel Aronson" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Monday, June 19, 2017 5:24:58 AM
>
> *Subject: *Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating
>
> All,
>
> The J30 I race on is overheating.  It's not the impeller.  The engine is
> 35 years old and salt water cooled.  I pulled the hose off the elbow and
> blew into it.  There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean
> anything?). What's next?  Thermostat?  Clean heat exchanger?  Elbow?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Joel
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> --
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hi 

I don't know if you read my earlier email where we were having a related 
problem. In our case it ended up being an air leak in the gasket for the 
strainer. 

We tested everything else. Ran water forward and backwards through the engine 
via the hole for the thermostat and the cylinder intake coupler. 

Don 

From: "Joel Aronson"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 5:24:58 AM 
Subject: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating 

All, 

The J30 I race on is overheating. It's not the impeller. The engine is 35 years 
old and salt water cooled. I pulled the hose off the elbow and blew into it. 
There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean anything?). What's 
next? Thermostat? Clean heat exchanger? Elbow? 

Thanks. 

Joel 
-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey

[David Kelly via CnC-List]

For a 35-2:

1. Yanmar 3YM30
2.  Yes.  The stringers were roughly 14" centers, which fits most small 
diesels. My recollection is A4s are more like 12" centers, in which case you 
need an engine intended to be an A4 replacement.  Rebuilt the beds anyway as 35 
years seemed like a pretty good useful life. 
3.  Three blade max prop 13". Spends, but 13 inch was the largest diameter that 
would maintain minimum tip clearance from the hull and the extra torque on the 
diesel needed more blade area than we could get with a two blade.   I think the 
prop change (from a two blade folder) made a world of difference and I would 
spend the money again. 

4. Yes. 

Re powering was a pain as a project and economically one the more irrational 
things to do to 30 year old boat, but it was worth it for improved reliability 
and power when I need it

David Kelly

> On Jun 19, 2017, at 11:23 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:
> 1.   What engine?
> 2.   Did it fit on the standard engine bed?
> 3.   What prop?
> 4.   Are you using the original strut?
> THANKS
> Joe
> Coquina
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

How far aft of the strut is the prop? When I had a 13x7 prop the tip was MAYBE 
½-3/4” from the hull. It was really noisy and switching to the smaller Indigo 
prop was a huge noise reduction.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 11:31 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey


On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 10:23 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:

1.   What engine?  Universal 25XPB

2.   Did it fit on the standard engine bed?  Yep

3.   What prop?  Martec 14 x 14 (would do 14 x 15 next time)

4.   Are you using the original strut?  Yep.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Joe,

Due to a failed water pump leading to a hydrolock, I had to do a complete 
repower on the Enterprise in 2015. What a nightmare. 

1. I went with a Beta 30 to replace my Universal Westerbeke 35M. The Beta is 
VERY easy to service and maintain. And, so far, runs like a dream. 
2. It did fit on the same bed, which was one of the biggest factors in deciding 
to go with the Beta over a Yanmar or other manufacturer. 
3. No change to my folding prop. 
4. Yes. Everything else is the same, including the 1 1/8” shaft size. I did end 
up getting a new shaft as well, but it is the same. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 









> On Jun 19, 2017, at 11:23 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:
> 1.   What engine?
> 2.   Did it fit on the standard engine bed?
> 3.   What prop?
> 4.   Are you using the original strut?
> THANKS
> Joe
> Coquina
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey (Della Barba, Joe)

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

Snow Goose was repowered with a 2GM20F. From what I can tell, it fit on the
standard engine bed, but the engine cover and the structure on the
starboard side were modified slightly to make room for the secondary fuel
filter. The boat has a two blade folding prop, but I'm unsure of the
brand/pitch/important details. The boat does have the original strut.

Here is a link to a photo of the prop and strut, and another of the engine:

*https://goo.gl/photos/wNJ3CQjH4jpaGowN8
 *

https://goo.gl/photos/8wFuKoP6Cqj645U59

I can get better photos of the engine bay and the cutout in the engine
cover if its helpful later in the week.

Best,
Tom

On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 11:24 AM  wrote:

> Today's Topics:
>
>4.  C&C 35 MK I engine survey (Della Barba, Joe)
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2017 15:23:14 +
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey
>
> For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:
>
> 1.   What engine?
>
> 2.   Did it fit on the standard engine bed?
>
> 3.   What prop?
>
> 4.   Are you using the original strut?
>
> THANKS
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel conditioners

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Thanks for the advice. I do have a diesel in S.O. guess I am pumping out the 
nasty stuff and scrubbing the tank. Then I am going to leave it empty. Won't 
need 90 gallons of fuel for another 3 years when I sever the dock lines for 
good. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant 
Other LF39 
 Original message From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/18/17  10:47  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Irvin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Fuel conditioners 

I swear by it. Have used it in the Atomic 4 as long as I have had my boat. Hard 
to get in Canada but readily available in US auto stores.
Moyer even recommends it.



Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 18, 2017, at 12:55 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List  
wrote:






Hi all, 
My new (to me) boat has water in all 3 fuel tanks. And one tank hasn't been 
used in 14 years, but is full, or mostly so. 
An old salt told me that in the old days they swore by Marvel Mystery oil. Has 
anyone heard of this? . I have used Soltron in the past with good results. 
Trying to figure the best (easiest and cheapest) way to clean this tank. There 
is a clean out on it.
  
May question is would I be better off hiring a company to come and polish the 
fuel or try and do it myself?  










Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy 
POYC 
Pegasus 
Lf38 
Significant Other 
LF39




___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List cc 33-2 shroud tension question

[Hector Saulnier via CnC-List]

C&C 33 mk2
Anyone know the recommended shroud tension settings for the uppers, middles and 
lowers for approx 15-20 knots of wind when racing and backstay tension lbs?

Thanks
Hector___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 10:23 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:
>
> 1.   What engine?  Universal 25XPB
>
> 2.   Did it fit on the standard engine bed?  Yep
>
> 3.   What prop?  Martec 14 x 14 (would do 14 x 15 next time)
>
> 4.   Are you using the original strut?  Yep.
>
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C&C 35 MK I engine survey

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:

1.   What engine?

2.   Did it fit on the standard engine bed?

3.   What prop?

4.   Are you using the original strut?
THANKS
Joe
Coquina
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Get a big bucket of vinegar and a bunch of cheap vinegar from the dollar store. 
Run it through the engine a few times. Salt and minerals plate out inside the 
engine and insulate the block from the water. I did this yearly when I had a 
RWC engine. The head also likes an annual vinegar treatment for the same reason.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

All,

The J30 I race on is overheating.  It's not the impeller.  The engine is 35 
years old and salt water cooled.  I pulled the hose off the elbow and blew into 
it.  There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean anything?). 
What's next?  Thermostat?  Clean heat exchanger?  Elbow?

Thanks.

Joel
--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel conditioners

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I don’t know about your engine, but with my old 300D Mercedes in the winter I 
would add 1 gallon of gasoline to a tank of diesel. I am not sure modern 
engines will tolerate this, but the old car liked it.
As to the rest: If the ONLY issue is water, a good fuel polishing machine will 
get it. The issue is water+diesel = an ideal growth medium for microbes that 
live in water and eat fuel. High pressure fuel polishing *might* get this stuff 
loose and it might NOT. You may be forced to remove the tanks and clean them 
off the boat. At the very least, get them polished and then pumped dry and 
lower a video camera on a wire in there (About $15-$25 on Amazon or FleaBay) 
and see what it looks like.  Also note that BioBor kills microbes, which is 
good, but the immediate result is a bunch of dead microbe goo, which is bad.
In one way you are lucky with diesel, at least water can be separated out in 
the filter. Water + gasoline + ethanol makes this nasty gooey substance that 
will NOT be removed by the Racor. Don’t ask how I know that ☹

Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 5:28 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel conditioners

I have little faith in fuel polishing.  Seen boat owners get their fuel 
polished them have issues the next time they're in rough seas.  Better to pull 
the tank and clean it or cut an access port and clean it.

I had a fuel dock put a bit of gasoline in my diesel tank once (0.5 gallons in 
18 gallon tank) before I stopped them.  Engine only had 18 hours on it.  They 
refused to pump it out.  I had to get it pumped out myself.  Cost me a few $$$. 
 I don't go into that fuel dock anymore.

Anyway, the next week I called the engine manufacturer technical manager.  He 
said that small amount of gasoline probably wouldn't have hurt.  He explained 
the issue with a small amount of gasoline in diesel is not the octane boost but 
the reduction in lubricity.
He said I could have simply added a pint or two of Marvel Mystery Oil and been 
OK.  I keep a quart on the boat now.

I have an Algae-X fuel conditioner on my diesel so I only add a lubricity 
agent, Stanadyne 38560.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jun 18, 2017 at 3:39 PM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Get rid of that old and dirty fuel and clean the tanks out.   Forget polishing. 
  If you don't this issue will rear it's ugly head at the most inopportune and 
perhaps dangerous time of trying motor out of a precarious situation with a 
seaway now dislodging and putting crap into your fuel lines and which will 
surely shut the engine down.



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 6/18/17 1:55 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasus38 mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Fuel conditioners
Hi all,
My new (to me) boat has water in all 3 fuel tanks. And one tank hasn't been 
used in 14 years, but is full, or mostly so.
An old salt told me that in the old days they swore by Marvel Mystery oil. Has 
anyone heard of this? . I have used Soltron in the past with good results. 
Trying to figure the best (easiest and cheapest) way to clean this tank. There 
is a clean out on it.
May question is would I be better off hiring a company to come and polish the 
fuel or try and do it myself?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus
Lf38
Significant Other
LF39

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Start with the water intake and chase it down, step by step. I ended up finding 
a very old piece of an impeller near one of the zincs (check those early, there 
is one at each end of the engine and they are easy to remove). The piece in my 
engine had been there for years, just bouncing around and once in a while 
blocking flow.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

 

All,

 

The J30 I race on is overheating.  It's not the impeller.  The engine is 35 
years old and salt water cooled.  I pulled the hose off the elbow and blew into 
it.  There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean anything?). 
What's next?  Thermostat?  Clean heat exchanger?  Elbow?

 

Thanks.

 

Joel

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Red Antifreeze in westerbeke 44B 4

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

It seems the red stuff is the extended life coolant or ELC type.

I ended up going with the Rotella ELC NF nitrate free stuff from Shell

According to shell on their rotella coolant site it is compatible with 
all the ELC type coolants.


I am now planning a flush though, is not worth the risk...

Thanks,
Danny

On 6/18/2017 7:14 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hi guys,
I needed to add antifreeze after hooking the water heater back up.  So 
I decided to drain it all and replace.  The antifreeze is red in color 
and I want to make sure I replace with a compatible antifreeze because 
I'd rather not have to do a complete flush as it will postpone my 
launch...
As best as I can tell it seems that the red stuff is the Nitrate free 
stuff.  I was thinking of going with the Rotella ELC-NF.  Is my 
thinking off base here?

Danny
T40
Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 2GM15 salt water cooled engine overheating

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

All,

The J30 I race on is overheating.  It's not the impeller.  The engine is 35
years old and salt water cooled.  I pulled the hose off the elbow and blew
into it.  There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean
anything?). What's next?  Thermostat?  Clean heat exchanger?  Elbow?

Thanks.

Joel
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!