Re: Stus-List Emission controls

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Andrew;

Before retiring, among other things, I did technical training for an
industrial vehicle manufacturer... pretty much specializing in diesel engine
training. I was a certified tech for both Cummins and Yanmar.

Based on what I know to be true at the time of retirement, I'd say you
should have no real worries.

Here's some basics on emissions requirements:

Basically, emissions requirements are international standards. The current
Tier IV levels are basically  the same everywhere. The difference by region
mostly have to do with when the standards become active. Europe is generally
a year or so ahead of the US. And Canada lags a year behind. Different sizes
of engines and different applications have different effective dates, with
on road applications and larger engines coming first, smaller engines, small
marine and non-mobile (like generator and pump) applications come later. One
of the anomalies (at least to me) is that large marine and locomotive
applications seem to be about the last class implemented.

The standards become increasingly more restrictive. The regulations levels
are referred to as "Tiers" in the US and Canada. Tier I was effective in the
90s. Tier II from 2002 to 2007. Tier III from 2010 to 2012. Tier 4 from 2013
to 2015. And Tier V will kick in between 2019 and 2022.

CARB emissions standards are, indeed, fussier than the normal standards -
but the differences are mostly in spark ignition (gas, propane, etc.)
engines and on road diesels. CARB allows lower levels of COx (unburned
hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide) and NOx (nitrous oxides) because that is
what makes smog. CARB also requires very low levels of particulate emissions
for on-road vehicles - which has ended up with particle filters in the
exhaust systems of some trucks and busses sold in California. CARB also
regulates small engines under 25HP (19KW) and hand held applications (like
weed whackers) that are not covered by the normal Tier 1-V standards.

A diesel engine is inherently much cleaner than a spark ignition engine.
Higher combustion pressures and temperatures mean very low unburned
hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide levels. Increasingly precise injector
controls (like the high pressure common rails injection with computer
controls used on the Cummins and Ford engines - and maybe on Yanmar Tier IV
or Tier V) take care of the particulates. The bugaboo for diesel emissions
is NOx. The atmosphere is about 80% Nitrogen, and the higher the combustion
temperature, the more likely you are to create NOx. Computer controls on the
injected fuel, to precisely manage the air/fuel ratio in a very narrow
range, limit the amount of free oxygen (not used to burn fuel) available to
form NOx.

Basically, there is a CARB compliant sticker on your engine because there
has to be a sticker if one is to sell the engine in California. The engine
for CARB, the rest of the US, and most likely Canada and Europe are likely
mechanically identical (except there is probably not a CARB label on the
European engine). I suspect you will find that the performance and fuel
economy (and certainly the reduced particulate smoke) to be better than what
you had from your old Yanmar. Just be sure to clean out the exhaust elbow
every year.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Stus-List Emission controls

Well, I finally got tired of fixing my engine every time I went out (or so
it seemed), not to mention dealing with all the diesely rust under and
around the thing. So I have gone for a brand new Yanmar 3YM30AE. It goes in
this afternoon. It's pretty and shiny gray and I think I love it. However, I
notice on one of the labels that it qualifies with all California emissions
requirements. What does that mean in the real world (you know, the part that
isn't in California)? I can't help thinking that it means seriously reduced
efficiency and power. Running around with a 20-gallon fuel tank, that is a
serious consideration.
Can the assembled intelligence here give me some insight into what this
means?
Cheers
Andy
C 40
Peregrine 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Frozen turn buckles

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I hate to say this, but is it possible that you have a case of a cold weld 
between the turnbuckle and the bolt?

Also look at the below. You may want to be careful with acetone on the deck.

Marek


Penetrating Oils 

Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on various 
penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might
appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out 
torque on rusted nuts. 

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They 
arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the
control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically 
rusted" environment. 

*Penetrating oils ... Average torque load to loosen* 

No Oil used ...516 pounds 

WD-40 . ... 238 pounds 

PB Blaster  214 pounds 

Liquid Wrench ...127 pounds 

Kano Kroil  106 pounds 

ATF-Acetone mix.53 pounds 

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission 
fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any
commercial product in this one particular test. 

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally 
good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as
"Kroil" for about 20% of the price. 

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also 
use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. 

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETER OCAMPO 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 20:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PETER OCAMPO 
Subject: Stus-List Frozen turn buckles

 had my rig checked and rigger found turn buckles  frozen   He could tune short 
stays but long stays no movement   He advised should be good for 20-25 knots 
but don't push it 

Is it okay to use pb blaster on turnbuckles  or is there a recommendation for 
something else  

 hate to say it winter storage  coming sooner then I want 

History of boat not known if stick has been down in 20+years Last ten guess 
is very light sailing  last 3 on the hard   Does not appear to ever been raced 


Thanks 

Peter
C 40 1983
Goonie island 
Portland Maine 

Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Emission controls, Biodiesel

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

If you have a Yanmar diesel, it would be best to check the engine manual and 
the service bulletins for your engine series to see what level of biodiesel is 
approved for the engine.

 

As I’ve said before, I was a Yanmar and Cummins certified tech and did 
technical training on Yanmar, Cummins, & Perkins (4 & 6 cylinder from 40 to 
265HP) engines used in material handling equipment before I retired. At that 
time both Yanmar & Cummins had approved use of biodiesel up to B10, but not 
above that. Yanmar had, historically, been reluctant to approve biodiesel use 
at all, due to what they felt was an unacceptable likelihood of algae 
contamination during fuel storage. (The algae like to eat diesel, but 
apparently really like French fries?)

 

That was true for the tier I, II, and III engines. It may have changed by now, 
or for the Tier IV (2013-2015 initial production) and for the coming Tier V.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dakin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 5:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Dakin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emission controls, Biodiesel

 

Running biodiesel will further reduce engine noise along with the common rail 
fuel delivery in newer diesel engines.  Is it even available at fuel docks, I 
haven't noticed.  Biodiesel (B-20) is hard to find for my Ford F250.  I would 
imagine even less common on the water.

 

I read a little on the new Yanmar engine from an online reviewer that pointed 
out the engine was not to be run at extended time at low rpm's.  This is also 
something to avoid on other diesel engines because a condition named wet 
stacking.

 

Bill Dakin

S/V Tapestry

25MKII

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Frozen turn buckles

[PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List]

 had my rig checked and rigger found turn buckles  frozen   He could tune short 
stays but long stays no movement   He advised should be good for 20-25 knots 
but don't push it 

Is it okay to use pb blaster on turnbuckles  or is there a recommendation for 
something else  

 hate to say it winter storage  coming sooner then I want 

History of boat not known if stick has been down in 20+years Last ten guess 
is very light sailing  last 3 on the hard   Does not appear to ever been raced 


Thanks 

Peter
C 40 1983
Goonie island 
Portland Maine 

Sent from my iPhone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

During the email string I found myself wondering if you had a voltmeter in the 
system.

 

I have a Blue Seas 8235 voltmeter in my system, which has a max power 
consumption of 1 watt. Presumably most of that is to power the LCD display. 1 
watt at 12v is about 0.1 amp – which is what my Link Light battery monitor 
shows when all the other power draws on the boat are turned off.

 

If you have a Blue Seas voltmeter, you can reduce the draw by putting the meter 
in “sleep” mode manually.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 3:29 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

 

Thanks for the replies.  I had already planned on moving the emergency bilge 
pump power to the hot side of the switch as Dennis suggested and did that 
today.  So now I can leave the main switch off and not have the 100mA draw but 
still have the bilge pump safety switch.  I do have a stereo (which I almost 
never use) but it is switched at the panel so should be off.  I did some more 
testing and found a few bits of data:

1.  I disconnected the ACR and the draw was the same.

2.  I found that there were 3 circuits connected to the switched side of the 
main rotary switch that did not all go to circuit breakers in the panel.  One 
turned out go to the voltmeter on the panel.  One is a water tank gauge.  
Haven’t located what the other connects to.  

So the problem is effectively solved, but it would still be nice to know where 
that 100mA is going.  At least I have learned a few new tidbits about the boat 
doing all this,  I had no idea that there were level gauges in the water tanks 
because the labels on the panel were worn off.  Dave

 

On Aug 17, 2017, at 9:49 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

Hi David,

 A 100 ma drain will kill a 100 AH battery in about a thousand hours.  
Yeah, I know it's a little more complicated than that, but it's a reasonable 
approximation.  Three batteries, 3,000 hours.  So It's not a very significant 
drain, but it might be worth tracking it down.  I have a similar drain on my 
boat, and am suspicious of the ACR relay as well.  One of these days I'll look 
into it.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 9:32 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

I had a suspicion of a power leak in my DC system so did some diagnostics 
yesterday.  I have a solar panel running when not on the boat, so it has not 
been a high priority to solve (the batteries are always fully charged when I 
get to the boat), but I wanted to determine if it was real.  I took all the 
negative leads off the batteries and then put my ammeter between the negative 
lead and the negative post of the house battery. I have a Blue Seas “add a 
battery” rotary switch which isolates the start battery from the house battery. 
 I normally leave this switch on so that the emergency bilge pump switch and 
LED courtesy lights will operate.  Those are the only things I know of that 
still work when the panel switches are all off.  I measured a 100 mA with the 
rotary switch on and all panel switches off.  I measured 0 mA with the switch 
off. I thought it might be the automatic bilge pump, but that is a mechanical 
float switch and disconnecting it had no effect.  So either I am getting 
current through the panel with all circuit breakers off or this somehow relates 
to the battery isolation in the Blue Seas ACR system.  Any thoughts from the 
geniuses on this list as to where to go next diagnosing this?  Also, is 100 mA 
a significant drain?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT


 

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C NW Rendezvous. Telegraph Harbor, BC

[David via CnC-List]

As a native New Yorker and now a transplant Cape Codian...there is nothing over 
the top...







Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
Date: 8/18/17 6:25 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List C NW Rendezvous. Telegraph Harbor, BC


Thanks Ed.  Your video is nice too.  Just a tiny bit over the top, maybe, but 
nice.  And after all, this is ot a competition, but if it were I would wait 
until you knew how many C's you have show up this year to see who the real 
winner is.  We only 19 this year... with 8 signed up already, you should have 
no trouble having more.

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2017 22:00:49 -0400
From: Edd Schillay 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C NW Rendezvous.  Telegraph Harbor, BC
Message-ID: <4ec651be-004d-4cff-b0fc-0bdb2a9f6...@schillay.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Tom,

Nice video and a great way to promote the Northwest Rendezvous. Not quite as 
good as the ones we use to promote the Northeast Rendezvous ? 
https://youtu.be/M8yBSXuHPaQ < https://youtu.be/M8yBSXuHPaQ> ? but nice work.

Not that it?s a competition or anything, but if it were, we?d totally be 
winning. :-)

Eight boats coming with a few weeks to sign up remaining ? Join the Rendezvous 
in Greenport, NY (Long Island?s north fork) ? 
www.cncnortheast.com < 
http://www.cncnortheast.com/>

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log < http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C NW Rendezvous. Telegraph Harbor, BC

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Thanks Ed.  Your video is nice too.  Just a tiny 
bit over the top, maybe, but nice.  And after 
all, this is ot a competition, but if it were I 
would wait until you knew how many C's you have 
show up this year to see who the real winner 
is.  We only 19 this year... with 8 signed up 
already, you should have no trouble having more.


Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com





Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2017 22:00:49 -0400
From: Edd Schillay 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C NW Rendezvous.  Telegraph Harbor, BC
Message-ID: <4ec651be-004d-4cff-b0fc-0bdb2a9f6...@schillay.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Tom,

Nice video and a great way to promote the 
Northwest Rendezvous. Not quite as good as the 
ones we use to promote the Northeast Rendezvous 
? https://youtu.be/M8yBSXuHPaQ  ? but nice work.


Not that it?s a competition or anything, but if 
it were, we?d totally be winning. :-)


Eight boats coming with a few weeks to sign up 
remaining ? Join the Rendezvous in Greenport, NY 
(Long Island?s north fork) ? 
www.cncnortheast.com 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Emission controls, Biodiesel

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

I have 243,000 miles on my F250 International 7.3L diesel ranch truck.  No
added oil needed between regular 5000 mile change intervals either.

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25MKII



On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 4:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, running a diesel at low RPMs to charge the batteries, etc. is the
> worst thing to do to a diesel. I'm sure it's one of the reasons I only got
> 36 years out of my old engine!
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Emission controls, Biodiesel

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Yes, running a diesel at low RPMs to charge the batteries, etc. is the worst 
thing to do to a diesel. I'm sure it's one of the reasons I only got 36 years 
out of my old engine!
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 18, 2017, at 17:14, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Running biodiesel will further reduce engine noise along with the common rail 
> fuel delivery in newer diesel engines.  Is it even available at fuel docks, I 
> haven't noticed.  Biodiesel (B-20) is hard to find for my Ford F250.  I would 
> imagine even less common on the water.
> 
> I read a little on the new Yanmar engine from an online reviewer that pointed 
> out the engine was not to be run at extended time at low rpm's.  This is also 
> something to avoid on other diesel engines because a condition named wet 
> stacking.
> 
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25MKII
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Emission controls, Biodiesel

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Running biodiesel will further reduce engine noise along with the common
rail fuel delivery in newer diesel engines.  Is it even available at fuel
docks, I haven't noticed.  Biodiesel (B-20) is hard to find for my Ford
F250.  I would imagine even less common on the water.

I read a little on the new Yanmar engine from an online reviewer that
pointed out the engine was not to be run at extended time at low rpm's.
This is also something to avoid on other diesel engines because a condition
named wet stacking.

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25MKII
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rear Cockpit (2 x hole) covers

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Are they not just a standard screw-in deck plate / inspection port,
available from all over?

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?name=deck-plates=-1|7504|2290180=2290183

Anyway, if the sleeves are original, they are probably pretty crispy by now
from UV.



On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 10:15 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Probably 5200. Heat a thin putty knife with a heat gun and slide it
> underneath and between the pieces.
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> > On Aug 18, 2017, at 13:08, Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I love music, but on a sailboat I prefer the sounds around me. So my
> latest project is sourcing the two original sleeves and covers for the
> holes in the cockpit behind the wheel, where there are currently two
> speakers. The PO installed the speakers with some kind of builders adhesive
> which has permanently sealed the speakers, and the stereo in the cabin, to
> whatever it’s attached to. I learned the hard way with a box cutter trying
> to take the adhesive off the stereo casing that holds it in place by
> promptly cutting my finger open. It’s solid as a rock. In the case with the
> rear cockpit speakers, the sleeves that previously allowed the two plastic
> covers to screw and lock into place are married to the speakers. This isn’t
> exactly a stereo I can re-sell on craigslist so I might have to 86 the
> whole stereo. Not a loss. In any case, does anyone know where I can find a
> set of the original sleeves and covers for the holes, other than eBay?
> >
> > Chris Hobson
> > S/V Going
> > 1980 C MKI
> > Hull 615
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Don't miss Mahone Bay.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 18, 2017, at 1:32 PM, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Mahone Bay is a joy, but old town Lunenburg has lots of good food, shops, 
museums and history to check out. You will want to see "The Ovens" - look it up 
on google. It's not far from there and should not be missed. If you've got the 
time you could check out some local beaches or go into LaHave on the light 
house route. Airbnb has some really good deals around there worth checking out. 
Have Fun!!

Dan
C
Halifax NS


On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 2:25 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hi,

My wife and I are going on vacation to Nova Scotia (we will be just outside of 
Lunenburg) and I was wondering if any of the listers, who know the place quite 
well, could provide some inside knowledge (where to go, what to see, what to 
avoid etc.). If some of that involves sailboats or sailing, that would be a 
bonus. We are planning to visit the Bluenose II, but this is as far as I got 
with sailing-related activities.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Btw. we are not taking to boat to get there (I would have to retire or quit my 
job if I wanted to) (;-)

thanks

Marek
Ottawa, ON

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Thanks for the replies.  I had already planned on moving the emergency bilge 
pump power to the hot side of the switch as Dennis suggested and did that 
today.  So now I can leave the main switch off and not have the 100mA draw but 
still have the bilge pump safety switch.  I do have a stereo (which I almost 
never use) but it is switched at the panel so should be off.  I did some more 
testing and found a few bits of data:
1.  I disconnected the ACR and the draw was the same.
2.  I found that there were 3 circuits connected to the switched side of the 
main rotary switch that did not all go to circuit breakers in the panel.  One 
turned out go to the voltmeter on the panel.  One is a water tank gauge.  
Haven’t located what the other connects to.  
So the problem is effectively solved, but it would still be nice to know where 
that 100mA is going.  At least I have learned a few new tidbits about the boat 
doing all this,  I had no idea that there were level gauges in the water tanks 
because the labels on the panel were worn off.  Dave

> On Aug 17, 2017, at 9:49 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi David,
>  A 100 ma drain will kill a 100 AH battery in about a thousand hours.  
> Yeah, I know it's a little more complicated than that, but it's a reasonable 
> approximation.  Three batteries, 3,000 hours.  So It's not a very significant 
> drain, but it might be worth tracking it down.  I have a similar drain on my 
> boat, and am suspicious of the ACR relay as well.  One of these days I'll 
> look into it.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 9:32 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> I had a suspicion of a power leak in my DC system so did some diagnostics 
> yesterday.  I have a solar panel running when not on the boat, so it has not 
> been a high priority to solve (the batteries are always fully charged when I 
> get to the boat), but I wanted to determine if it was real.  I took all the 
> negative leads off the batteries and then put my ammeter between the negative 
> lead and the negative post of the house battery. I have a Blue Seas “add a 
> battery” rotary switch which isolates the start battery from the house 
> battery.  I normally leave this switch on so that the emergency bilge pump 
> switch and LED courtesy lights will operate.  Those are the only things I 
> know of that still work when the panel switches are all off.  I measured a 
> 100 mA with the rotary switch on and all panel switches off.  I measured 0 mA 
> with the switch off. I thought it might be the automatic bilge pump, but that 
> is a mechanical float switch and disconnecting it had no effect.  So either I 
> am getting current through the panel with all circuit breakers off or this 
> somehow relates to the battery isolation in the Blue Seas ACR system.  Any 
> thoughts from the geniuses on this list as to where to go next diagnosing 
> this?  Also, is 100 mA a significant drain?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis, 

Yep, heard you loud and clear when you posted that a few months back - It will 
be on my eventual list!  :)  

I may reach out to you for some insights when that day approaches.

Just not looking forward to it as of today...
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 To: CnClist  
Cc: Dennis C. 
 Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 1:22 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin
   
Which is why I re-wired my entire boat.  :)    $(
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:59 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I pulled on the battery cables, and they literally felt crunchy.  

Turns out the battery cables were corroded thoroughly, and badly needed 
replacement.  




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy Recommendations?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Our RIB is fantastic. As a dinghy user, you would never go back to anything 
else. It can hold an amazing amount of s.. (cough) stuff. I think it once held 
6 people and two big dogs. It can cruise all day at 16-18 knots and has enough 
grunt to tow a big boat or a kid in a tube. It is very stable and you can step 
right up from the dinghy to the boat without stretching.
So why NOT have one? It can’t be taken aboard and it is a lot of drag to tow. I 
figure it costs on average ½ a knot.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 1:49 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy Recommendations?

The reason the West dinghy fell apart is probably because it was glued.  It 
also may have been Hypalon which is no longer available.  Most dinghies now are 
thermowelded.  Make sure any inflatable you buy is thermowelded.

In a recent thread, a lister gave the advice on dinghy motors "go big or go 
small".  Good advice.  I have a 1980's vintage Evinrude 7.5 for my dinghy.  
Bought it cheap from a buddy.  While it will make the dinghy scoot, because of 
no wake zones and anchorage courtesy I rarely have the opportunity to "scoot".  
It's heavy and while the Admiral and I are very adept at raising and lowering 
it on/off the dinghy with a halyard, it's still a pain due to its weight.  
Lately the motor has stayed in storage and I've simply rowed everywhere.

If I was starting from scratch, I'd buy a lightweight motor and just putt putt 
slowly wherever.  I'd lean toward the lightest motor with both internal and 
external fuel tank I could find.

As for the type of inflatable, that depends on your usage and storage.  I find 
a wood floor inflatable suits us OK.  There are arguments for both RIB's and 
air floor inflatables.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 12:24 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hello all,

The last thing I want to do is to start "The Great Dinghy War".  [*;) winking]

That said, our '94 came with two outboards, one 6.5 hp Honda 4 stroke mounted 
the the stern railing and an old Torqeedo.  Haven't even gotten around to 
testing either one yet - too many other things on my list!  Thre was a West 
Marine inflatable dinghy folded up under the v-berth, but the floor had 
entirely peeled out of it and is was in really poor shape.

If we want to go on any kind of getaway (even a local one), I'm going to need a 
dinghy since transient slips here in the Tampa area are darned expensive.

I'm really liking the idea of a porta-boat, especially given the ability to 
store it on deck easily.  I've seen a couple of you comment very positively 
about them.  I am also finding relatively few detractors.  That said I want to 
keep my mind wide open as I way the options.

I've read a number of articles that really push for a RIB with a 15hp yamaha as 
being the "standard" in the Caribbean due to combination of dryness, speed, and 
ability to get parts.  However, in our harbor, we cannot keep a dinghy in the 
water next to our boat, so I think that may strike a RIB unless we hang dinghy 
davits from the stern which would probably force us into a bigger dock (which 
may not even be available in our marina).

So,what dinghy, what size, and what outboard size/type?

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy Recommendations?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The reason the West dinghy fell apart is probably because it was glued.  It
also may have been Hypalon which is no longer available.  Most dinghies now
are thermowelded.  Make sure any inflatable you buy is thermowelded.

In a recent thread, a lister gave the advice on dinghy motors "go big or go
small".  Good advice.  I have a 1980's vintage Evinrude 7.5 for my dinghy.
Bought it cheap from a buddy.  While it will make the dinghy scoot, because
of no wake zones and anchorage courtesy I rarely have the opportunity to
"scoot".  It's heavy and while the Admiral and I are very adept at raising
and lowering it on/off the dinghy with a halyard, it's still a pain due to
its weight.  Lately the motor has stayed in storage and I've simply rowed
everywhere.

If I was starting from scratch, I'd buy a lightweight motor and just putt
putt slowly wherever.  I'd lean toward the lightest motor with both
internal and external fuel tank I could find.

As for the type of inflatable, that depends on your usage and storage.  I
find a wood floor inflatable suits us OK.  There are arguments for both
RIB's and air floor inflatables.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 12:24 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> The last thing I want to do is to start "The Great Dinghy War".  [image:
> *;) winking]
>
> That said, our '94 came with two outboards, one 6.5 hp Honda 4 stroke
> mounted the the stern railing and an old Torqeedo.  Haven't even gotten
> around to testing either one yet - too many other things on my list!  Thre
> was a West Marine inflatable dinghy folded up under the v-berth, but the
> floor had entirely peeled out of it and is was in really poor shape.
>
> If we want to go on any kind of getaway (even a local one), I'm going to
> need a dinghy since transient slips here in the Tampa area are darned
> expensive.
>
> I'm really liking the idea of a porta-boat, especially given the ability
> to store it on deck easily.  I've seen a couple of you comment very
> positively about them.  I am also finding relatively few detractors.  That
> said I want to keep my mind wide open as I way the options.
>
> I've read a number of articles that really push for a RIB with a 15hp
> yamaha as being the "standard" in the Caribbean due to combination of
> dryness, speed, and ability to get parts.  However, in our harbor, we
> cannot keep a dinghy in the water next to our boat, so I think that may
> strike a RIB unless we hang dinghy davits from the stern which would
> probably force us into a bigger dock (which may not even be available in
> our marina).
>
> So,what dinghy, what size, and what outboard size/type?
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

[Dan via CnC-List]

Mahone Bay is a joy, but old town Lunenburg has lots of good food, shops,
museums and history to check out. You will want to see "The Ovens" - look
it up on google. It's not far from there and should not be missed. If
you've got the time you could check out some local beaches or go into
LaHave on the light house route. Airbnb has some really good deals around
there worth checking out. Have Fun!!

Dan
C
Halifax NS


On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 2:25 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> My wife and I are going on vacation to Nova Scotia (we will be just
> outside of Lunenburg) and I was wondering if any of the listers, who know
> the place quite well, could provide some inside knowledge (where to go,
> what to see, what to avoid etc.). If some of that involves sailboats or
> sailing, that would be a bonus. We are planning to visit the Bluenose II,
> but this is as far as I got with sailing-related activities.
>
> Any ideas would be welcome.
>
> Btw. we are not taking to boat to get there (I would have to retire or
> quit my job if I wanted to) (;-)
>
> thanks
>
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Dinghy Recommendations?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
The last thing I want to do is to start "The Great Dinghy War".  
That said, our '94 came with two outboards, one 6.5 hp Honda 4 stroke mounted 
the the stern railing and an old Torqeedo.  Haven't even gotten around to 
testing either one yet - too many other things on my list!  Thre was a West 
Marine inflatable dinghy folded up under the v-berth, but the floor had 
entirely peeled out of it and is was in really poor shape.

If we want to go on any kind of getaway (even a local one), I'm going to need a 
dinghy since transient slips here in the Tampa area are darned expensive.  

I'm really liking the idea of a porta-boat, especially given the ability to 
store it on deck easily.  I've seen a couple of you comment very positively 
about them.  I am also finding relatively few detractors.  That said I want to 
keep my mind wide open as I way the options.
I've read a number of articles that really push for a RIB with a 15hp yamaha as 
being the "standard" in the Caribbean due to combination of dryness, speed, and 
ability to get parts.  However, in our harbor, we cannot keep a dinghy in the 
water next to our boat, so I think that may strike a RIB unless we hang dinghy 
davits from the stern which would probably force us into a bigger dock (which 
may not even be available in our marina).

 So,what dinghy, what size, and what outboard size/type? Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Hi,

My wife and I are going on vacation to Nova Scotia (we will be just outside of 
Lunenburg) and I was wondering if any of the listers, who know the place quite 
well, could provide some inside knowledge (where to go, what to see, what to 
avoid etc.). If some of that involves sailboats or sailing, that would be a 
bonus. We are planning to visit the Bluenose II, but this is as far as I got 
with sailing-related activities.

Any ideas would be welcome.

Btw. we are not taking to boat to get there (I would have to retire or quit my 
job if I wanted to) (;-)

thanks

Marek
Ottawa, ON
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Which is why I re-wired my entire boat.  :)$(

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:59 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> I pulled on the battery cables, and they literally felt crunchy.
>
> Turns out the battery cables were corroded thoroughly, and badly needed
> replacement.
>
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rear Cockpit (2 x hole) covers

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Probably 5200. Heat a thin putty knife with a heat gun and slide it underneath 
and between the pieces.
Andy
C 40
Peregrine 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 18, 2017, at 13:08, Chris Hobson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I love music, but on a sailboat I prefer the sounds around me. So my latest 
> project is sourcing the two original sleeves and covers for the holes in the 
> cockpit behind the wheel, where there are currently two speakers. The PO 
> installed the speakers with some kind of builders adhesive which has 
> permanently sealed the speakers, and the stereo in the cabin, to whatever 
> it’s attached to. I learned the hard way with a box cutter trying to take the 
> adhesive off the stereo casing that holds it in place by promptly cutting my 
> finger open. It’s solid as a rock. In the case with the rear cockpit 
> speakers, the sleeves that previously allowed the two plastic covers to screw 
> and lock into place are married to the speakers. This isn’t exactly a stereo 
> I can re-sell on craigslist so I might have to 86 the whole stereo. Not a 
> loss. In any case, does anyone know where I can find a set of the original 
> sleeves and covers for the holes, other than eBay?
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C MKI
> Hull 615
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rear Cockpit (2 x hole) covers

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

I love music, but on a sailboat I prefer the sounds around me. So my latest 
project is sourcing the two original sleeves and covers for the holes in the 
cockpit behind the wheel, where there are currently two speakers. The PO 
installed the speakers with some kind of builders adhesive which has 
permanently sealed the speakers, and the stereo in the cabin, to whatever it’s 
attached to. I learned the hard way with a box cutter trying to take the 
adhesive off the stereo casing that holds it in place by promptly cutting my 
finger open. It’s solid as a rock. In the case with the rear cockpit speakers, 
the sleeves that previously allowed the two plastic covers to screw and lock 
into place are married to the speakers. This isn’t exactly a stereo I can 
re-sell on craigslist so I might have to 86 the whole stereo. Not a loss. In 
any case, does anyone know where I can find a set of the original sleeves and 
covers for the holes, other than eBay?

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C MKI
Hull 615




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I had an interesting issue which we only sorta knew about when we bought 
Astralis, our 1994 C 37/40+.  Battery 1 (starting battery) showed strong, but 
the #2 battery was showing 11.9  - 12.1 volts with no loads on them.  After 
replacing the batteries with known good units, the battery voltage at the panel 
still showed 11.9 (and even lower at times).  Knowing the first suspect was the 
ground connection at the engine, went back and started checking.
I pulled on the battery cables, and they literally felt crunchy.  

Turns out the battery cables were corroded thoroughly, and badly needed 
replacement.  

You might try testing voltage at the back of the switch on your panel as a 
starting point.  

Just a thought... 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: David via CnC-List 
 To: CNC CNC  
Cc: David 
 Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 9:52 AM
 Subject: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin
   
 All was well on our departure from home base to PTown for a long weekend.  
Then started get a low voltage warning via instruments.  8.8 v.  Not right as 
engine meter showing all is well at 13+  
Then ST fail at ST 7000 autopilot and depth,speed, and wind indicator power 
out.  Upon harbor entrance depth and speed and wind (wind powered up but no 
readings) powerup but flickering lamps
This morning nuthin.    
Multimeter shows 8 volts at power source of instruments.  So jump to alternate 
power source and still  nothing.  
Auto still powered up but still reading fail and gyro powered up by reading 0
I know it's diagnosing from afar but any first pass thoughts
Thanks in advance.  




Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE 
smartphone___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C NW Rendezvous. Telegraph Harbor, BC

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Very nice video. Wish I could have been there. Maybe next year. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/17/17  18:41  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com, C Rdv  Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
 Subject: Stus-List C NW Rendezvous.  Telegraph Harbor, BC 
http://youtu.be/hTBU6_HwvFA

Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List stern light (bulb socket slipped out of fixture)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Can you feed a fish tape from the transom through the fixture and grab it
in the Q-berth?

If so, you can pull a messenger then the wire to the fixture.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 9:26 AM, Richard Walter via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So...any suggestions how to access the stern light fixture from the INSIDE
> of the transom??
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 3:54 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List stern light (bulb socket slipped out of fixture)

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

So...any suggestions how to access the stern light fixture from the INSIDE of 
the transom?? 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 3:54 PM, Richard Walter via 
CnC-List wrote:   
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
  
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Take voltage readings from ground bus to negative battery terminal.  Take
voltage reading from 12v bus to positive battery terminal.  Take voltage
reading from ground bus to 12v bus.  Sounds like battery cables or bus bars
are corroded and causing a voltage/current drop.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Aug 18, 2017 9:52 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

> All was well on our departure from home base to PTown for a long weekend.
> Then started get a low voltage warning via instruments.  8.8 v.  Not right
> as engine meter showing all is well at 13+
>
> Then ST fail at ST 7000 autopilot and depth,speed, and wind indicator
> power out.  Upon harbor entrance depth and speed and wind (wind powered up
> but no readings) powerup but flickering lamps
>
> This morning nuthin.
>
> Multimeter shows 8 volts at power source of instruments.  So jump to
> alternate power source and still  nothing.
>
> Auto still powered up but still reading fail and gyro powered up by
> reading 0
>
> I know it's diagnosing from afar but any first pass thoughts
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, David — sounds like your SeaTalk1 bus may have a bad positive or ground 
lead connection somewhere.  I’d suggest you trace the SeaTalk1 lead to the 
breaker panel and check BOTH the hot and ground leads for corrosion or a bad 
connection.  Also unplug and replug the SeaTalk connections at the back of each 
instrument a couple of times to “wipe” the connectors.

Let me know if any of this helps; and you can call me on my cell at 
612-839-6565 if you’d like a phone consult; I’d hate to see you lose vacation 
time over this.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 18, 2017, at 8:51 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> All was well on our departure from home base to PTown for a long weekend.  
> Then started get a low voltage warning via instruments.  8.8 v.  Not right as 
> engine meter showing all is well at 13+  
> 
> Then ST fail at ST 7000 autopilot and depth,speed, and wind indicator power 
> out.  Upon harbor entrance depth and speed and wind (wind powered up but no 
> readings) powerup but flickering lamps
> 
> This morning nuthin.
> 
> Multimeter shows 8 volts at power source of instruments.  So jump to 
> alternate power source and still  nothing.  
> 
> Auto still powered up but still reading fail and gyro powered up by reading 0
> 
> I know it's diagnosing from afar but any first pass thoughts
> 
> Thanks in advance. 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Seeking thoughts on solar panel installation

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I put mine on the hard dodger.  2x (100w + genesun 8amp boost + drok power
monitor).  400AHr battery with priority start automatic disconnect.
Generally it keeps the fridge running but sometimes during the hottest
summer months its not enough.  I also try to keep the 5-mile-wifi running
but that has a considerable load.  I'm in a slip anyway so plugging in is
easy.  I don't hesitate to go 3 or 4 days with wifi and fridge.  I could
easily go 7 or 8 days with just the fridge if I was on a mooring.  During
the winter months I don't run the fridge or wifi and can go all winter
without plugging in.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yLXU5RzRyWjZXTDA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Aug 18, 2017 7:45 AM, "Damian Greene via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I’m deliberately keeping this question broad, as I’m at an early stage of
> my planning:
>
>
>
> As we keep our boat on a mooring, a constant concern is maintaining charge
> in the batteries. Already on my winter list is to install a Blue Seas ACR
> (automatic charging relay), to eliminate having to remember to switch
> 1/all/2.
>
>
>
> In addition, I’m thinking of installing a solar panel system. At a
> minimum, I’d like a system that would bring the batteries from partially
> depleted to full charge over a couple of days, so I’d be fairly confident
> in having a full charge when I go out to the boat.
>
>
>
> Next step up would be a system that would at least extend how long we can
> run the refrigerator on a cruise without having run the engine a couple of
> hours/day.
>
>
>
> In terms of panel location, I’m thinking on top of the bimini, as it’s 1)
> out of the way, and 2) close to the batteries.
>
>
>
> I would welcome any advice/experience on selection of brand, how many
> amps, and installation.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Damian
>
>
>
> 1982 C 34 GHOST (for sale)
>
> 1986 Sabre 38 (name still under debate )
>
> Bass Harbor, Maine
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin

[David via CnC-List]

All was well on our departure from home base to PTown for a long weekend.  Then 
started get a low voltage warning via instruments.  8.8 v.  Not right as engine 
meter showing all is well at 13+

Then ST fail at ST 7000 autopilot and depth,speed, and wind indicator power 
out.  Upon harbor entrance depth and speed and wind (wind powered up but no 
readings) powerup but flickering lamps

This morning nuthin.

Multimeter shows 8 volts at power source of instruments.  So jump to alternate 
power source and still  nothing.

Auto still powered up but still reading fail and gyro powered up by reading 0

I know it's diagnosing from afar but any first pass thoughts

Thanks in advance.





Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Seeking thoughts on solar panel installation

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Damian,

you have to calculate how much power you would need. That depends on your 
cruising usage (how much extra charge you want to get to keep your refrigerator 
going) and the size of your batteries (the larger the bank, the more power you 
need to keep it topped up).

Regardless of what panels you select, the charge controller is the most 
important. The better ones are the MPPT, but (and I know I can invite the 
ridicule of some purists) the older (PWM) controllers may offer quite good 
value for money. Buy the best controller you can afford. Genasun controllers 
have great reviews (and some are quite affordable). Morningside is another 
decent brand (I have one of theirs).

The rigid panels are usually cheaper and more effective, but they are more 
cumbersome (they are heavier and rigid, so they have to be properly and 
generally, permanently, installed). Semi-rigid (or semi-flexible) are next and 
the fully rollable are the most expensive (for the comparable power), but 
obviously offer the most flexibility.

If not for your refrigerator use, I would suggest a semi-flexible or rollable 
panel on the bimini. This should give you enough power to top up the batteries 
when the boat is on the mooring between sails. If you use the motor at all, it 
would do the bulk charging and the panel would top it up. This is how I use my 
solar panel and it works.b For keeping the batteries in shape, you don’t need 
too much current; rather, you need it for a very long time.

Your fridge needs probably around 7-8 A, which translates into a 120-140 W 
panel; larger if you have (and probably you do) anything else using power when 
you sail. If you want to be serious about running on solar, as the main source, 
you would need 200 W panels. If they are rigid, they would require special 
solid support on the bimini.

I strongly suggest a single battery controller (and a good one) plus an ACR (as 
opposed to a dual battery controller (even if I use one)).

Read up on Maine Sail’s web site 
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects); he has plenty of 
information.

Good luck

Marek
(Powerfilm panel, Morningside Duo controller)
Ottawa, ON


From: Damian Greene via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 07:45
To: C E-Mail List
Cc: Damian Greene
Subject: Stus-List Seeking thoughts on solar panel installation

I’m deliberately keeping this question broad, as I’m at an early stage of my 
planning:

As we keep our boat on a mooring, a constant concern is maintaining charge in 
the batteries. Already on my winter list is to install a Blue Seas ACR 
(automatic charging relay), to eliminate having to remember to switch 1/all/2.

In addition, I’m thinking of installing a solar panel system. At a minimum, I’d 
like a system that would bring the batteries from partially depleted to full 
charge over a couple of days, so I’d be fairly confident in having a full 
charge when I go out to the boat.

Next step up would be a system that would at least extend how long we can run 
the refrigerator on a cruise without having run the engine a couple of 
hours/day.

In terms of panel location, I’m thinking on top of the bimini, as it’s 1) out 
of the way, and 2) close to the batteries.

I would welcome any advice/experience on selection of brand, how many amps, and 
installation.

Thanks,

Damian

1982 C 34 GHOST (for sale)
1986 Sabre 38 (name still under debate )
Bass Harbor, Maine


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Seeking thoughts on solar panel installation

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I am also thinking about putting solar panels on our bimini.  As to the Blue 
Seas ACR, I used something different on our old C 27, a Yandina Battery 
Combiner which is essentially the same thing, but  the Yandina is very small, I 
think it is much easier to install (no extra wires to run depending on where 
you install it), and also has a very small LED for monitoring the status of the 
combiner.  

The green wire also allows you to hook up the combiner to an on/automatic/off 
switch if you would so desire.  More info can be found at:  

Combiner 100 Sheet

  
|  
|   
|   
|   ||

   |

  |
|  
|   |  
Combiner 100 Sheet
   |   |

  |

  |

 


What is the collective wisdom from the folks here?  

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


   

   From: Damian Greene via CnC-List 
 To: C E-Mail List  
Cc: Damian Greene 
 Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 7:45 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Seeking thoughts on solar panel installation
  
#yiv0442227663 #yiv0442227663 -- filtered {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 
4;}#yiv0442227663 filtered {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 
4;}#yiv0442227663 p.yiv0442227663MsoNormal, #yiv0442227663 
li.yiv0442227663MsoNormal, #yiv0442227663 div.yiv0442227663MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}#yiv0442227663 a:link, 
#yiv0442227663 span.yiv0442227663MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0442227663 a:visited, #yiv0442227663 
span.yiv0442227663MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0442227663 
.yiv0442227663MsoChpDefault {}#yiv0442227663 filtered {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 
1.0in;}#yiv0442227663 div.yiv0442227663WordSection1 {}#yiv0442227663 I’m 
deliberately keeping this question broad, as I’m at an early stage of my 
planning:  As we keep our boat on a mooring, a constant concern is maintaining 
charge in the batteries. Already on my winter list is to install a Blue Seas 
ACR (automatic charging relay), to eliminate having to remember to switch 
1/all/2.  In addition, I’m thinking of installing a solar panel system. At a 
minimum, I’d like a system that would bring the batteries from partially 
depleted to full charge over a couple of days, so I’d be fairly confident in 
having a full charge when I go out to the boat.  Next step up would be a system 
that would at least extend how long we can run the refrigerator on a cruise 
without having run the engine a couple of hours/day.  In terms of panel 
location, I’m thinking on top of the bimini, as it’s 1) out of the way, and 2) 
close to the batteries.  I would welcome any advice/experience on selection of 
brand, how many amps, and installation.  Thanks,  Damian  1982 C 34 GHOST 
(for sale)1986 Sabre 38 (name still under debate )Bass Harbor, Maine    Sent 
from Mail for Windows 10  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Seeking thoughts on solar panel installation

[Damian Greene via CnC-List]

I’m deliberately keeping this question broad, as I’m at an early stage of my 
planning:

As we keep our boat on a mooring, a constant concern is maintaining charge in 
the batteries. Already on my winter list is to install a Blue Seas ACR 
(automatic charging relay), to eliminate having to remember to switch 1/all/2.

In addition, I’m thinking of installing a solar panel system. At a minimum, I’d 
like a system that would bring the batteries from partially depleted to full 
charge over a couple of days, so I’d be fairly confident in having a full 
charge when I go out to the boat.

Next step up would be a system that would at least extend how long we can run 
the refrigerator on a cruise without having run the engine a couple of 
hours/day.

In terms of panel location, I’m thinking on top of the bimini, as it’s 1) out 
of the way, and 2) close to the batteries.

I would welcome any advice/experience on selection of brand, how many amps, and 
installation.

Thanks,

Damian

1982 C 34 GHOST (for sale)
1986 Sabre 38 (name still under debate )
Bass Harbor, Maine


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

My nine-foot fiberglass dinghy has traveled on Peregrine's foredeck to and from 
Maine the last few years. It fits between the baby stay and the windlass just 
aft of the anchor locker. Otherwise we just tow it between islands. 
Fortunately, it does tow beautifully.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 18, 2017, at 05:24, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> We kept an 8' zodiac on our foredeck on the 32, no trouble. We even hoisted 
> it up there while under way (we always used the spare jib halyard). Towing 
> sucks :)
> 
> Steve
> Formerly: C 32 Suhana
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

We kept an 8' zodiac on our foredeck on the 32, no trouble. We even hoisted
it up there while under way (we always used the spare jib halyard). Towing
sucks :)

Steve
Formerly: C 32 Suhana



On Wed, Aug 16, 2017 at 2:35 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think if I had to get a dinghy onboard to travel, I might get one of
> these:
>
> http://www.boatstogo.com/inflatable-boat-am365.asp
>
>
>
> They look pretty good for the price
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ronald
> B. Frerker via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 16, 2017 12:37 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck
>
>
>
> You could probably sail with it up front, but you'd need to have a high
> clewed jib to make it more feasible.
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* john wright via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* john wright 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 15, 2017 2:00 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck
>
>
>
> Thanks. I agree, my thinking is that it will be towed while under sail.
> Its an Acorn Tender and they tow very well.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 15, 2017, at 2:33 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!