Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I replaced my 'punky' wood fairing block with one cast out of epoxy. Used a
plastic tub (cottage cheese or something similar) as the form (giving a
rounded edge to it from the profile of the bottom of the tub) and a short
section of cardboard tube that was the same diameter as the depth
transducer.  This was set-up in a jig giving the appropriate angle. There
wasn't a lot of shaping required to get it to sit flush and the fairing
block was slathered with Sikaflex when mounted.  We did a epoxy-coated wood
backing plate inside.

I re-used my old Airmar depth and speed transducers from the original
Simrad IS12 Combi unit ... they are compatible with the Raymarine i50
Tridata I purchased to replace it. I did install a new paddlewheel kit in
the speed trandsducer.

So how about something like a Raymarine Dragonfly chartplotter ... along
with a conventional depth sounder? I think something like a 5M, with
charts, is about $320?

I'm wondering if you'll find that the smaller screens on the 'inexpensive'
chartplotter/sounder units are too cluttered ... and I think most of them
come with transom-mount trandsucers.

It seems that un-used transducers pop up quite often on places like
craigslist and consignment shops ... for example I picked up a spare depth
transducer this summer for $50 from a local consignment shop.

Instruments not that much ... but the same place did have some Raymarine
depth, speed, etc. instruments show up on their shelves for $75 each. If
you go knocking on some doors of marine repair / refit places you might
luck into something. I recall a couple years ago when I was looking for
replacement instruments the guys at my marina had a whole set of Simrad
IS20 instruments that came out of a pilothouse ... pristine ... all working
... no exposure to the weather.  I was tempted to buy the lot to sell on
eBay!

Even a new Raymarine i40 depth is about $240 (instrument and transducer).
That and the Dragonfly is getting pretty close to your $500 budget.

Only thing with this kind of set-up is you won't have connectivity between
chartplotter and depth sensor as the Dragonfly doesn't have any data
connectivity ... that also goes for position data output to a DSC-enabled
VHF.
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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? (Edd Schillay)

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

Home
Work tomorrow
Planned to leave for Shelter Island on Wed.
90%Chance of rain all day Wed.
Now plan on leaving for Shelter Island on Thursday.
Arrive Greenport on Thursday or Friday.

If the rain forecast changes we may still leave Wed afternoon.

C  Here we come

S/V Hanuman
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Stus-List Inversion of Battery Switch Wiring

[Alex Giannelia via CnC-List]

Here is an oddball idea that I thought I'd float by the list:

Reverse wiring the standard 1-2-All-Off switch to accomplish the following 
(context: I have an electric motor, so don't charge my batteries off the engine)

Wire the 2 -27 house batteries in parallel, then feed the output to the 
standard switch which then in one position powers the cockpit panel, the other 
for the main panel and combined for both panels.

I am completely re-wiring my boat and will end up with 2 panels and don't want 
to run from the battery to a main, then to the cockpit panel, because the cable 
runs waste energy, so I want the two panels run directly from the house then to 
their respective devices.

Call me crazy, but let me know if this might work.  I have an old switch which 
I will use to test the concept outside the boat, but just wanted to get 
feedback.

Let me know.


Alex Giannelia

1974 C 35-2
Toronto

PS My motor runs off of 4 ODYSSEY PC18 wired in series with its own smart 
charger and is completely separate from my house bank.

PS2:  No enroute charging yet, but will eventually pick a solution from wind, 
solar, hydro...




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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I once enquired about a slip there (One 15) and almost fell over when they told 
me the price.  Is a nice view though.   I'm in Three Mile Harbor about an 
hour's sail from Greenport but must confess I'm now on a Hunter 37.5.  May stop 
by to say hello as long as I am not torpedoed.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 4, 2017, at 8:02 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Tomorrow is Norwalk Cove. Tonight is One15 marina in Brooklyn looking at 
> skyline of NYC. Unfortunately I'm drinking all the rum allocated for the 
> rendezvous. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 5:10 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Are you going to visit sunset grill?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>> Date: 9/4/17 4:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Edd Schillay 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
>> 
>> Norwalk Cove Marina. Slip A10E. 
>> 
>> Day One of our (Star) Trek to the C Rendezvous in Greenport. 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
>> C 37+ 
>> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, New York
>> ---
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone 7
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> 
>> 
>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 1:06 PM, Paul Marble via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Green Cove Springs, Florida
>> 
>> Paul Marble
>> S/V Tina Marie
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I use P79 transducer for the last 4 years and it works fine. It takes a while 
to adjust the angle to make sure that you shoot straight down. You have to put 
some liquid into the housing, normally antifreeze, but over time it 
evaporates/leaks, so you need to refill every 4-6 months. Other than that- no 
problems.

Make sure that you shoot through a solid fiberglass (or it won’t work)

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: jackbrennan via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 16:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jackbrennan
Subject: Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

For shooting through the hull, Airmar makes a P 79 transducer for Raymarine and 
Garmin depth sounders that includes the housing.

What makes this attractive is that it is designed to handle any slant in the 
hull up to 22 degrees.

It is reasonably priced, as boat gear goes, and it has worked well on my 
current sailboat for about four years.  It's good to about 200 feet depth, as 
opposed to 400 on transducers that go through the hull.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO


 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Date:09/04/2017 2:11 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth


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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Tomorrow is Norwalk Cove. Tonight is One15 marina in Brooklyn looking at 
skyline of NYC. Unfortunately I'm drinking all the rum allocated for the 
rendezvous. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 4, 2017, at 5:10 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Are you going to visit sunset grill?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/4/17 4:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
> 
> Norwalk Cove Marina. Slip A10E. 
> 
> Day One of our (Star) Trek to the C Rendezvous in Greenport. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
> C 37+ 
> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New York
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 7
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Sep 4, 2017, at 1:06 PM, Paul Marble via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Green Cove Springs, Florida
> 
> Paul Marble
> S/V Tina Marie
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List cleaning thru hulls.

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Not being facetious; soak em in Coca Cola. Just cleaned up some very tarnished 
bronze that way. You might have to take a wire brush to them as well.
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Sep 4, 2017, at 19:25, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a cleaner for the bronze thru hulls? They seem to be rather 
> corroded.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Big Boat on my property C 33 mk1

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I would post it on craigslist and other places as "Make an offer, must be
gone by xxx date".

Do you have a date in mind? Sounds like you're in a rush. Getting that boat
off the property will cost someone money, it's difficult to sell a boat in
that condition, in a hurry, anyway. If you're giving it away someone may
pony up the money to get transport arranged.

Good luck.

Steve
Formerly, C 32 Suhana


On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 3:12 PM, David Kaseler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe,
> The original 33s are great boats we still have ours and love her. For us,
> she both cruises and races well. Old IOR design creates some challenges
> with the spinnaker in a blow but you can learn to deal with that. From our
> prospective she is the right size for a couple.
> Hope you find a buyer. If she still has her Atomic 4 gas engine many
> potential buyers may see that as a negative but we just replaced our old
> Atomic 4 with a rebuilt one from Moyer Marine. Don Moyer is the man for
> these engines and has a great website where he sells endless parts, a
> complete repair and rebuild manual and rebuilt engines with new heads and
> manifolds and if you want to pay a bit more he even sells "rebuilt" engines
> with new blocks.
> Good luck on finding a buyer.
> Regards,
> Dave. Kaseler
> 1975 C 33
> SLY
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Aug 30, 2017, at 10:17 AM, Joseph Kramer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Like many dreams in life they come and then fade.
> > "Benefit" was the dream come true for me. "Risk" our first boat
> adventure did result in a benefit that still lasts, which is the reality of
> life together with my wife.
> > So I have this fading dream boat that is fading as fast as I am.
> > The issue is I have this boat on jack stands on my property in the
> middle of Chatham county NC.
> > I am seeking advice...
> > This is a project boat.
> > Like many dreams sometimes there are others that have that same
> delusional dream. But, not really very many people have this dream for this
> 33ft aging beauty.
> > I am seeking advice on the best way as quickly as possible,..remove this
> fading classic...
> > Any dreamers???
> > OK how about pragmatists.
> > thanks
> > Joe
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List cleaning thru hulls.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a cleaner for the bronze thru hulls? They seem to be rather 
corroded.___

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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Now we're in Cocktail Cove, Jewel island in Casco Bay, coincidentally enough, 
enjoying a nice Mt Gay and tonic.
Saw Peter's aft cabin 40, Goonie Island in Portland, but couldn't hook up with 
Peter.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Sep 4, 2017, at 17:30, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Oh yes. Reservation for 7:30. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> Sent from my iPad Air
> iPad. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 5:10 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Are you going to visit sunset grill?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>> Date: 9/4/17 4:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Edd Schillay 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
>> 
>> Norwalk Cove Marina. Slip A10E. 
>> 
>> Day One of our (Star) Trek to the C Rendezvous in Greenport. 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
>> C 37+ 
>> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, New York
>> ---
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone 7
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> 
>> 
>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 1:06 PM, Paul Marble via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Green Cove Springs, Florida
>> 
>> Paul Marble
>> S/V Tina Marie
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Oh yes. Reservation for 7:30. 

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
Sent from my iPad Air
iPad. iTypos. iApologize



> On Sep 4, 2017, at 5:10 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Are you going to visit sunset grill?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/4/17 4:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
> 
> Norwalk Cove Marina. Slip A10E. 
> 
> Day One of our (Star) Trek to the C Rendezvous in Greenport. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
> C 37+ 
> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New York
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 7
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Sep 4, 2017, at 1:06 PM, Paul Marble via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Green Cove Springs, Florida
> 
> Paul Marble
> S/V Tina Marie
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Are you going to visit sunset grill?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/4/17  4:37 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Whereabouts??? 
Norwalk Cove Marina. Slip A10E. 

Day One of our (Star) Trek to the C Rendezvous in Greenport. 

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ 
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Sep 4, 2017, at 1:06 PM, Paul Marble via CnC-List  
wrote:

Green Cove Springs, Florida

Paul Marble
S/V Tina Marie

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Re: Stus-List Transmission ratio for LF38

[Frank via CnC-List]

Tony,

>From my Yanmar Service Manual, Marine Diesel Engine, Model 3QM30(H), Chapter 1 
>General, 2. Specifications:

Reduction gear system
Reduction ratio:
Model:   3QM303QM30H3QM30Y3QM30F
ModelYP-10MKH-18YP-10MKH-18
Reduction Ratio:
Ahead2.20/3.212.31/3.002.20/3.212.31/3.00
Astern2.30/3.461.96/3.062.30/3.461.96/3.06

The YP-10M Reduction gear system is a Constant-mesh spur gear, with a 
Mechanical wet type single disk clutch and the KH-18 Reduction gear system  is 
a Constant-mesh helical gear, with a Mechanical wet type multi disk clutch.  

I have no idea what all of this means but I hope that this may help.

   

Frank Noragon
S/V: Cool Change
C 38LF, s/n: 001
Rose City Yacht Club
Portland, Oregon

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Re: Stus-List Grace is home

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Congratulations on your new boat.  I use that locker for sail ties, and for
a spinnaker halyard winch handle.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
'Portland, OR

On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 2:04 PM, schiller via CnC-List  wrote:

> We moved the new (to us) 1983 C 35, Mark III from Muskegon, Michigan to
> Whitehall, Michigan Saturday.  Nice day for the move, started out sunny and
> mild with fairly light winds out of the West with a fairly light chop.  We
> sailed on a close reach up the lake.  The winds picked up a little and most
> of the trip was in 5-8 kt (true) winds out of the WNW with about 1 foot
> waves.  One sail set and off we went.  She sailed well and we made it with
> no problems.
> Spent Sunday cleaning and straightening things out.  The boat had not had
> the decks washed in at least 5 years.  We went through a full spray bottle
> of fairly concentrated Simple Green with a scrub brush (the deck brush was
> useless).  She looks nice now.
> We do have a portlight leak on the port side.  We will only be in the
> water for another 4 weeks so I have tried to seal it for that time and plan
> on portlight replacement in the spring.  We will see if I can get it sealed
> for the fall.  We do have a winter cover so it shouldn't be a problem for
> the winter.
> One question for the Mark III crowd.  What do you use the locker just
> forward of the mainsheet track for?  It looks like it is only deep enough
> for sail ties.  What else do others use if for?
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
> "Grace"
> White Lake, Michigan
>
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
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> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=1F5Gh0ikhBM-
> dpX41tCYv6w0RK27VbfCYUOPWUmGKOQ=TDX9H8kP_wPbkUg5Xg9CMxyG4lfaW1vXBQ0yQTS
> CNPw=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Stus-List Grace is home

[schiller via CnC-List]

We moved the new (to us) 1983 C 35, Mark III from Muskegon, Michigan 
to Whitehall, Michigan Saturday.  Nice day for the move, started out 
sunny and mild with fairly light winds out of the West with a fairly 
light chop.  We sailed on a close reach up the lake.  The winds picked 
up a little and most of the trip was in 5-8 kt (true) winds out of the 
WNW with about 1 foot waves.  One sail set and off we went.  She sailed 
well and we made it with no problems.
Spent Sunday cleaning and straightening things out.  The boat had not 
had the decks washed in at least 5 years.  We went through a full spray 
bottle of fairly concentrated Simple Green with a scrub brush (the deck 
brush was useless).  She looks nice now.
We do have a portlight leak on the port side.  We will only be in the 
water for another 4 weeks so I have tried to seal it for that time and 
plan on portlight replacement in the spring.  We will see if I can get 
it sealed for the fall.  We do have a winter cover so it shouldn't be a 
problem for the winter.
One question for the Mark III crowd.  What do you use the locker just 
forward of the mainsheet track for?  It looks like it is only deep 
enough for sail ties.  What else do others use if for?


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan

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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Norwalk Cove Marina. Slip A10E. 

Day One of our (Star) Trek to the C Rendezvous in Greenport. 

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ 
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Sep 4, 2017, at 1:06 PM, Paul Marble via CnC-List  
wrote:

Green Cove Springs, Florida

Paul Marble
S/V Tina Marie

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Re: Stus-List Closed the deal

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Neil,

 

Congratulations.  You’ll love the Mk-III.  There are a lot of Mk-III owners 
(and former owners) on this list.  We can help with a lot of model-specific 
tasks/problems.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 9:22 PM schiller via CnC-List  > wrote:

We are the proud new owners of a 1983 C 35, Mark III (ZCC35028M83H).  Closed 
the deal on it and took position this afternoon.  We will move it up from 
Muskegon to White Lake tomorrow, back home to Crosswinds Marina in Whitehall.

We'll have about 4 weeks to familiarize ourselves with her before time to haul 
and store for the winter.  I still need to pick up the cradle and winter cover 
before the end of the month.

If any of the C 35, Mark I owners are interested in a winter cover, please 
let me know.  I had Whitelake Canvas make me a cover last year and now I have 
no Mark I to cover.  This cover goes to the toe rail and is fitted to go around 
the stanchions and shrouds.  I have a picture or two of it if interested.  Make 
me an offer.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, Hull #28
"Grace"

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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

For shooting through the hull, Airmar makes a P 79 transducer for Raymarine and 
Garmin depth sounders that includes the housing. 

What makes this attractive is that it is designed to handle any slant in the 
hull up to 22 degrees. 

It is reasonably priced, as boat gear goes, and it has worked well on my 
current sailboat for about four years.  It's good to about 200 feet depth, as 
opposed to 400 on transducers that go through the hull.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List  
Date:09/04/2017  2:11 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth 


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Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List]

When I put a gps on my Catalina and o day I simply put transducer lorance fish 
finder  in toilet plug wax making sure no air bubbles and I got good depth 
readings

Peter 
Goonie island C 40

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 4, 2017, at 1:27 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So, your type 1891 incandescent lamp is rated at 2 spherical candle power, 
> which is equivalent to 25 lumens. 
> 
>  Steve Thomas via CnC-List  wrote: 
> This link to a GE miniature lamp catalog contains a wealth of information. 
> Brightness is expressed in "spherical candlepower", where one candela is 
> approximately equal to 12.5 lumens. Don't get distracted by sites with purist 
> definitions, this is close enough for farm use in this context. 
> 
> http://www.csobeech.com/files/GE-BulbCatalog.pdf
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
>  "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote: 
> I replaced the bulb in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
> wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the brightness.  I just
> replaced it in kind from an auto parts store.
> 
> The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W, 12 VDC mini-bayonet (BA9S)
> base.  It's not difficult to find the correct base and height but
> determining the brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light that
> can be seen by the International Space Station.
> 
> The new specification for LED bulbs is in lumens.  I did some quick
> research on the Web but couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12
> VDC to lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12 VDC.
> 
> So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC bulb?
> 
> Has anybody found a decent website for converting watts 12 VDC to lumens?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Dennis,
 I should add that it matters if the LED bulb distributes the light
differently.  If the lumens are the same, but the light distribution is
different, then I would think the bulbs would not be equivalent.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 2:35 PM, Gary Russell  wrote:

> Dennis,
>  Watts is watts.  A 3.4 watt bulb at 12 volts (0.28 amps) will draw
> 10x the current as at 120 volts (.028 amps).  but the lumens should be
> about the same, I think.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced the bulb in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
>> wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the brightness.  I just
>> replaced it in kind from an auto parts store.
>>
>> The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W, 12 VDC mini-bayonet
>> (BA9S) base.  It's not difficult to find the correct base and height but
>> determining the brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light that
>> can be seen by the International Space Station.
>>
>> The new specification for LED bulbs is in lumens.  I did some quick
>> research on the Web but couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12
>> VDC to lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12 VDC.
>>
>> So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC bulb?
>>
>> Has anybody found a decent website for converting watts 12 VDC to lumens?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Dennis,

there is no accurate way to convert power (V*I) to lumens.  Basically the 
temperature of the filament will drive the lumens value.

Leslie.


On Mon, 9/4/17, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents
 To: "CnClist" 
 Cc: "Dennis C." 
 Date: Monday, September 4, 2017, 9:19 AM
 
 I replaced the bulb
 in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
 wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the
 brightness.  I just replaced it in kind from an auto parts
 store.
 The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W,
 12 VDC mini-bayonet (BA9S) base.  It's not difficult to
 find the correct base and height but determining the
 brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light
 that can be seen by the International Space
 Station.
 The new specification for LED bulbs is in
 lumens.  I did some quick research on the Web but
 couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12 VDC to
 lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12
 VDC.
 So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC
 bulb?
 Has anybody found a decent website for converting
 watts 12 VDC to lumens?
 Dennis C.Touche' 35-1
 #83Mandeville,
 LA___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

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Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Dennis,
 Watts is watts.  A 3.4 watt bulb at 12 volts (0.28 amps) will draw 10x
the current as at 120 volts (.028 amps).  but the lumens should be about
the same, I think.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced the bulb in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
> wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the brightness.  I just
> replaced it in kind from an auto parts store.
>
> The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W, 12 VDC mini-bayonet
> (BA9S) base.  It's not difficult to find the correct base and height but
> determining the brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light that
> can be seen by the International Space Station.
>
> The new specification for LED bulbs is in lumens.  I did some quick
> research on the Web but couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12
> VDC to lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12 VDC.
>
> So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC bulb?
>
> Has anybody found a decent website for converting watts 12 VDC to lumens?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Mark;

 

When I replaced the non-functioning Signet sounder on my 25MK1 with a Garmin 
plotter/sounder about 20 years ago, I got some good advice from the iteration 
of the C list that was extant at that time. I left the old transducer in 
place and just cut off the wires. Then I made a “wet box” and installed the new 
transducer so it shoots through the hull from the inside. So there is no hole 
and no chance of a leak. (The old Signet transducer still doesn’t leak after 
I-Don’t-Know-How-Many-Years, though the fact that I put bottom paint over it 
every 3 or 4 years probably helps.)

 

When I did this, I had to make my own “wet box” out of a 4” PVC cleanout plug. 
I tapered the end of the PVC fitting so it matched the deadrise of the hull in 
the forward locker under the Port Settee, and epoxied it down to the hull. I 
had to cut a small slot in the threaded end of the fitting so the transducer 
wire could exit the box. The box is filled with mineral oil so the transducer 
can ping through the hull (good news is the 25mk1 has a solid glass hull so you 
can put the box anywhere that is convenient for you). The “plug” for the 
fitting is tightened snug enough that the mineral oil has never leaked.

 

When I did this, I was limited in locating the transducer by the length of the 
wire. Two pieces of good news are that Garmin offers both a transducer and 
housing designed to be installed inside the hull (that’s what I got for my 38 
when I installed the second sounder), and Garmin offers a 30 foot extension 
wire for the sounder so you would not be limited in placing the transducer as I 
was. 

 

If I were in your situation, I’d probably glass in the old hole and install a 
wet box inside the hull. Best placement would be somewhere under the V-berth 
and in front of the keel so you see less turbulence in the water.

 

As far as the plotter/sounder goes, I’ve used Garmin instruments for more than 
2 decades and I’m used to the menus and displays. But that’s sort of an 
Apples/Oranges thing (maybe the analogy should be Windows/IOS) (or in this case 
Garmin/Raymarine). I think my first plotter on the 25 was a Garmin 130, and 
when it died I replaced it with a 168 I bought on EBay. The 168 is pretty old 
now, so if I keep the boat I’ll probably replace it with something newer. Good 
news is that the transducer seems to work with the newer instruments (with the 
addition of an adapter to match the pins of the transducer wire to the new 
instrument).

 

Good Luck on your project.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 3, 2017 1:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark G 
Subject: Stus-List Small boat GPS with depth

 

I have the bottom of my 25 Mk1 down to bare gelcoat.  I figured now is a good 
time to replace all the thru hulls including the old knotmeter and depth 
transducer.  These have not been functional since I've owned the boat.  I've 
gotten by with an old hand-held Garmin GPSmap 76.  To be honest, I'm mainly 
just looking to plug the holes in the bottom.  I managed to replace the old 
analog knotmeter with a combination of new and rebuilt parts.  I'm now looking 
to replace the transducer.  At some point the prior owner had a GPS or 
fishfinder mounted in the companionway because the bracket is still there.  I'm 
looking to do something similar.  I want a mounted GPS, and I want to be able 
to plug in the transducer for an actual depth measurement (rather than an 
approximate measurement from the electronic chart).  And I'd like to do this 
for less than $500.  I'm not looking to find shipwrecks or the last fish in the 
ocean, and I don't care about water temperature or what is 1000 feet below me.  
I just want to be able to anchor, avoid running aground, etc.  At this point I 
think what I want is an obsolete Garmin GPSmap or Echomap 500 series, with an 
Airmar transducer.  There's not much info online that's geared towards day 
sailors.  Any advice or recommendations?

 

Most thru-hull transducers seem to be 2.125 inches in diameter.  The one I 
removed is 2.0.  It's difficult to open up a 2.0 hole to 2.125 with a hole saw. 
 Would you recommend grinding the hole larger with a Dremel?

 

The transducer I removed was mounted in a wood fairing block.  The deadrise 
angle seems to be about 10 degrees.  I see that some of these transducers are 
internally gimbled up to 20 degrees.  Is that the preferred approach for a 
sailboat considering the heeling angle on opposite tacks, etc.?  Or should I 
just make another wood fairing block?

 

Mark

C 25

Dartmouth, MA

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Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

So, your type 1891 incandescent lamp is rated at 2 spherical candle power, 
which is equivalent to 25 lumens. 

 Steve Thomas via CnC-List  wrote: 
This link to a GE miniature lamp catalog contains a wealth of information. 
Brightness is expressed in "spherical candlepower", where one candela is 
approximately equal to 12.5 lumens. Don't get distracted by sites with purist 
definitions, this is close enough for farm use in this context. 

http://www.csobeech.com/files/GE-BulbCatalog.pdf

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote: 
I replaced the bulb in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the brightness.  I just
replaced it in kind from an auto parts store.

The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W, 12 VDC mini-bayonet (BA9S)
base.  It's not difficult to find the correct base and height but
determining the brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light that
can be seen by the International Space Station.

The new specification for LED bulbs is in lumens.  I did some quick
research on the Web but couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12
VDC to lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12 VDC.

So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC bulb?

Has anybody found a decent website for converting watts 12 VDC to lumens?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Paul Marble via CnC-List]

Green Cove Springs, Florida

Paul Marble
S/V Tina Marie

On Sep 4, 2017 12:48 PM, "Steve Thomas via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Port Stanley, Ontario
> Steve Thomas
> sv Mystique
> C MKIII
>
>  "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List"  wrote:
> Just wondering about where our wandering list members are currently?Where
> are you Hank an where is Stella Blue?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL (still)
>
>
>   From: henry evans via CnC-List 
>  To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> Cc: henry evans 
>  Sent: Friday, September 1, 2017 10:11 AM
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Irma heads up
>
>  Can you imagine how many thousands of factors must be crunched by the
> computers to create that many spaghetti lines ?  Mind boggling.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

This link to a GE miniature lamp catalog contains a wealth of information. 
Brightness is expressed in "spherical candlepower", where one candela is 
approximately equal to 12.5 lumens. Don't get distracted by sites with purist 
definitions, this is close enough for farm use in this context. 

http://www.csobeech.com/files/GE-BulbCatalog.pdf

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote: 
I replaced the bulb in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the brightness.  I just
replaced it in kind from an auto parts store.

The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W, 12 VDC mini-bayonet (BA9S)
base.  It's not difficult to find the correct base and height but
determining the brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light that
can be seen by the International Space Station.

The new specification for LED bulbs is in lumens.  I did some quick
research on the Web but couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12
VDC to lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12 VDC.

So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC bulb?

Has anybody found a decent website for converting watts 12 VDC to lumens?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Port Stanley, Ontario
Steve Thomas
sv Mystique
C MKIII

 "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List"  wrote: 
Just wondering about where our wandering list members are currently?Where are 
you Hank an where is Stella Blue?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL (still)


  From: henry evans via CnC-List 
 To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Cc: henry evans 
 Sent: Friday, September 1, 2017 10:11 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Irma heads up
   
 Can you imagine how many thousands of factors must be crunched by the 
computers to create that many spaghetti lines ?  Mind boggling. 
   
  

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Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I replaced the bulb in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the brightness.  I just
replaced it in kind from an auto parts store.

The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W, 12 VDC mini-bayonet (BA9S)
base.  It's not difficult to find the correct base and height but
determining the brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light that
can be seen by the International Space Station.

The new specification for LED bulbs is in lumens.  I did some quick
research on the Web but couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12
VDC to lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12 VDC.

So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC bulb?

Has anybody found a decent website for converting watts 12 VDC to lumens?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Transmission ratio for LF38

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   According to my records...my transmission is 1-1 and the vdrive is 2-1.
  
 


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Re: Stus-List Looseness in tiller on C MK1

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

On my '77 30 MK1 the rudder post goes through a fiberglass tube that is a close 
fit,
would not allow much sideways movement. Wear between the shaft and tiller is 
more likely.
If the bolts are easy to remove and are not retaining the shaft then take them 
out and see
how easily the tiller comes off.

You can send the pictures to me directly and I will take a look.

I did remove the pedestal, turning plate, rudder and fittings from Windburn for 
checking
and maintenance a few years ago. Time consuming but there is reasonable access 
and
everything comes apart and goes together without any complicated procedures.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 12:09:41 + 
From: Cleverboy  

 
Looking for some guidance on a problem with my newly acquired 73 C . I Have 
play in the tiller and I'm trying to determine if the play is the result of 
"egging" around the through bolt or the piece that I think is called the rudder 
head. The rudder head is attached to the rudder shaft by 2 bolts. It appears 
that over the 44 years of sailing some material may have worn away allowing the 
tiller to have the sloppiness. I tried attaching 2 photos but it put me wildly 
over the size permitted for emails. 
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
 
 
Charles Ferrari 
 
Bronx, NY 
 
C 30 MK1 
 
Destrier 
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Re: Stus-List Looseness in tiller on C MK1

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Charles,

Congrats on the acquisition of a C 30 MK I.  I own hull #7, built in 1972. My 
boat also has tiller steering and boom-end sheeting, making for a nice roomy 
cockpit.  I’ve dealt with play in the tiller as well.  In my case it was easy 
to correct by simply tightening the nuts on the bolt fastening the tiller to 
the rudder “head”.  I didn’t have to tighten any other bolts.  The play was in 
the up-and-down motion of the tiller - if I let go of it, it would fall on 
somebody’s feet in the cockpit.  But I found that tightening those nuts also 
stiffened the tiller’s side-to-side motion, interestingly - it gave the boat 
firmer steering.

Also, welcome to the list.  The best way to share pictures is to put them on 
Google drive or similar, then include links in your posts to the list.  Here 
are a bunch of pictures of my boat Grenadine: 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk 


Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Sep 4, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Cleverboy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looking for some guidance on a problem with my newly acquired 73 C . I 
> Have play in the tiller and I'm trying to determine if the play is the result 
> of "egging" around the through bolt or the piece that I think is called the 
> rudder head. The rudder head is attached to the rudder shaft by 2 bolts. It 
> appears that over the 44 years of sailing some material may have worn away 
> allowing the tiller to have the sloppiness. I tried attaching 2 photos but it 
> put me wildly over the size permitted for emails.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Charles Ferrari
> Bronx, NY
> C 30 MK1
> Destrier
> 
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> 
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Stus-List Closed the deal

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

Congrats on the purchase, Neil!  My 35-3 is in UP...but I live a fairly
itinerant lifestyle between Hessel and Grand Rapids.  Not sure where you
are, but send me a note offline if you want to chat/swap.  I have stuff and
stories.  cs


*Chuck Saur*
​C 35-3
Morning Sky​
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Stus-List Looseness in tiller on C MK1

[Cleverboy via CnC-List]

Looking for some guidance on a problem with my newly acquired 73 C . I Have 
play in the tiller and I'm trying to determine if the play is the result of 
"egging" around the through bolt or the piece that I think is called the rudder 
head. The rudder head is attached to the rudder shaft by 2 bolts. It appears 
that over the 44 years of sailing some material may have worn away allowing the 
tiller to have the sloppiness. I tried attaching 2 photos but it put me wildly 
over the size permitted for emails.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Charles Ferrari

Bronx, NY

C 30 MK1

Destrier

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Re: Stus-List Transmission ratio for LF38

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I believe my transmission is 2.14:1.  Not 100% sure, but when I had it
rebuilt two years ago I had someone check it and that's what they said it
was. Also I had considered replacement and they had 2.7:1's in stock but no
2.14:1.

Just curious where are you getting your new transmission? I had the
impression they were hard to find. Are you still in Fiji? I found your blog
but no updates since 2014 - would love to read if you decide to take it
back up.

I have a 3 blade 18" Autoprop. It provides good power, but we do lose
significant speed motoring upwind in 15 kts or more. It sounds like you
might be underprop'd a bit with the 2-blade 16".

My mechanic when I had the transmission rebuilt called the Autoprop
transmission killers. He was more a fan of MaxProp's and said they're more
common. Not sure if the "transmission killer" bit is true or not, but we
found a prior owner had misinstalled the transmission with a mismatched
shaft coupler (different size inner ring), so hoping that was the cause.

-Patrick
1984 LF 38
Seattle, WA

On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 3:51 PM,  wrote:
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Anthony Mitchell 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 09:33:19 +1200
> Subject: Stus-List Transmission ratio for LF38
> Unfortunately our ZF 15 MIV transmission needs replacement. The current
> gearbox has a 2.13:1 gear ration and I believe the gearbox has been
> replaced in the past. The owners manual for the LF38 says the ration should
> be 2.83:1. Our prop is a two blade 16" x 13" x 1-1/8" RH which more closely
> matches the specs for the LF35.
>
> Can any LF owners confirm their transmission ratio. I'm not certain that
> our gearbox is correct, and if we're purchasing a new one, it will be good
> to get it back to standard.
> We get along OK with the current setup but the performance is not
> outstanding to windward.
>
> Tony Mitchell
> SV Irish Melody,
> 1983 LF38 #150
> Vuda, Fiji
>
>
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