Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

This maybe old news to some, but I just realized that my phone provider (via 
cable) has a lot (20K+) free wifi spots, all over the country.  They are 
secured, but your provider's username/password will let you use it. I have it 
programmed in my cellphone and can get good connection in most places.  Worth 
looking into.

I was wondering why I had wifi in Europe, with a local SIM card.  When I 
purchased the SIM card they programmed the same automatically...  It was nice 
to have but not important, so I did not think much about it.  But it was nice 
to stream some YouTube entertainment while waiting for the train running late.

Leslie.


On Mon, 2/26/18, Paul E via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Paul E" 
 Date: Monday, February 26, 2018, 8:44 AM
 
 Hi,
 About 3 yrs ago I installed a WiFi
 system with the Ubiquiti BULLET-M2-HP WiFi radio mounted on
 top of the mast.   These units are built for outdoor
---%<

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have for many years applied lemon oil to interior teak woodwork every spring.  
Use varnish for cabin sole every 5 years or so. Use Cetol for top of 
companionway steps every 3 years or so.  All works just great with great results

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

 

Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to 
last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain the 
teak.

 

First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 180 
grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that to 
dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for it's 
durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of Epiphanes 
Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that gives off a 
beautiful lustre.

You can varnish over most teak oils.

Peregrine was done that way before I got her and in the five years I had her 
the finish still looked terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with 
vinegar and water every now and then.

 

Andy

Formerly: C&C 40

Peregrine

 

Now: Baltic 47

Masquerade

 

On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all,

 

I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.

 

What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  

 

I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  

 

I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.

 

Thanks for the insights!

 

Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092   (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I’ve cleaned mine with vinegar and applied Epifanes rubbed effect varnish.  The 
rubbed effect does not have UV inhibitors.  For areas exposed to sunlight, I 
apply clear varnish and a final coat of rubbed effect.  Last year, I did my 
companionway ladder and sanded it first.  The shade and color match.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:03 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

 

Hello all,

 

I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.

 

What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  

 

I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  

 

I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.

 

Thanks for the insights!

 

Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I should have been a little more clear - the lemon oil I used was on my 
previous 1977 C&C 27 MKIII, not this boat, so I don't have to clean that off.  
I was really hoping for something a little less intensive than varnishing the 
entire inside.  I know, that's pure wishful thinking... :)   Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
 Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:25 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)
   
Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to 
last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain the 
teak.

First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 180 
grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that to 
dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for it's 
durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of Epiphanes 
Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that gives off a 
beautiful lustre.You can varnish over most teak oils.Peregrine was done that 
way before I got her and in the five years I had her the finish still looked 
terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with vinegar and water every now 
and then.
AndyFormerly: C&C 40Peregrine
Now: Baltic 47Masquerade
On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all,
I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.
What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  
I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  
I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.
Thanks for the insights! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

__ _

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray






-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



   ___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going
to last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will
stain the teak.

First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with
180 grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow
that to dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money)
for it's durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of
Epiphanes Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that
gives off a beautiful lustre.
You can varnish over most teak oils.
Peregrine was done that way before I got her and in the five years I had
her the finish still looked terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down
with vinegar and water every now and then.

Andy
Formerly: C&C 40
Peregrine

Now: Baltic 47
Masquerade

On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and
> dried out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type
> of varnish, lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish
> the interior woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc.,
> and I'd really like to match the interior look it had when it came out of
> the showroom so I don't have to refinish every square inch.
>
> What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at
> all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?
>
> I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.
>
> I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an
> informed decision.
>
> Thanks for the insights!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.
What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  
I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  
I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.
Thanks for the insights! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 145, Issue 146

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

All,

Thanks a lot for the varying responses and insights.

We primarily want to use it when at our marina to have better reach / coverage 
to the supplied WiFi.


/J

> On Feb 27, 2018, at 7:58 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range
>  (Marek Dziedzic)
>   2. Re:  Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection (Dreuge)
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi John,

Yes, I ran a new cat5e cable down the mast using an old wire as a messenger. At 
the same time, I ran in parallel another messenger line which I have since used 
and replaced installing a new Raymarine wind transducer.  I have a newer mast 
(Kenyon Spars 5280) which has a built in extruded cable channel along the 
length of the mast, so my experience of pulling wires down the mast may be 
slightly different than others.  The key is to use a messenger.  It is a real 
PITA trying to run a steel fish tape down the mast.  I had to do so when I 
installed a new steaming light system and did not have the old wires for a 
messenger.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 26, 2018, at 12:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2018 12:25:05 -0500
> From: John Christopher mailto:phygi...@gmail.com>>
> To: Paul E mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection
>   range
> Message-ID: <8c23bde7-eed8-45ee-a989-c3cc942bf...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Paul,
> 
> Are you running the cable inside your mast? Anything special there?
> 
> 
> /J
> 
>> On Feb 26, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Paul E > > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> About 3 yrs ago I installed a WiFi system with the Ubiquiti BULLET-M2-HP 
>> WiFi radio mounted on top of the mast.   These units are built for outdoor 
>> use and require no addition weather proofing. My system has survived several 
>> tropical storms and a hurricane, and still works flawlessly.   I use it 
>> while cruising, and while most WiFi?s  are secure now a days, getting access 
>> has been a minor issue.  You will be surprised how many restaurants use 
>> their phone number for passwords.  Visiting an establishment is another easy 
>> way to obtain a WiFi password.   I once connect to wifi while anchored in an 
>> island cove several miles off shore from the source which was a RV park on 
>> shore.  
>> 
>> That said, +90% of my use is at docks.   I have been to many marinas and 
>> clubs where the provided WiFi signal is too weak for reliable device use.  
>> At our club, my phone and laptop don?t even see the club?s network.   But 
>> the bullet connects with no issue.
>> 
>> I built my system for about $100.  Most of the work is plug and play except 
>> for the initial configuration.   I have posted the details of my 
>> installation, including the configuration, on my blog.
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/WiFiWork 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL

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