Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 question

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

And I second the second on the 37 ! 


John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 1:48:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush; bail...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 question

I second everything Bailey says, except, insert 37 where he has 36!

Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Bailey White via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Bailey White 
Sent: Thu, Jan 10, 2019 1:13 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 question

hi Shawn,

I suspect if you sail that C 36, you will buy it.  I have one like it, a 
1979, and am delighted with its feel under sail and the way the boat works 
under power and at the dock or on the anchor for myself, girlfriend, and any 
friends or family we bring a long.  To me it is the perfect size, and I 
wouldn't want smaller.

In light air, you can pass other cruising boats.  In heavy, you are relatively 
dry and comfortable.  As a performance sailor, I don't worry about stiffness 
too much.  I can always reduce sail.  I value light air performance as it is 
hard to make the mast longer.

Your friends who are racers will remark about how nicely the boat steers 
compared to what they were expecting from a boat that is made to be so 
comfortable.

People at the dock will compliment the boat and you might even feel pride and 
or sheepishness when you spent so little compared to their new big cruising 
power boats.

From this list, it's pretty clear that all C are this good and if you are 
willing to spend more, go for the 37/40 or other newer one with more amenities.

If not, get something like that 36.  I certainly have been pleased with mine.

That one looks very clean to me and likely has the fundamentals right.

Bailey






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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 I agree.  We had/have three 26s on Carlyle and they're very good boats.  The 
MacGregors are really poorly done and extremely lightly built boats.  I had the 
21 as my first boat and comparing it to my next boat, a San Juan 24, was 
comparing apples and oranges.It's like comparing driving a WW II jeep to a 
Mercedes.It seems to me, that you should really look at the C 30-1.  While 
not the greatest in light air for racing, it does move and it can really stand 
up to a blow.  It responds well, doing exactly what you expect it to do.  There 
were a lot sold, so easier to find and the prices quite frankly are way too 
cheap.I would look for one with a diesel.Of course, I'm a bit prejudiced since 
I sail one.If/when I step up, it would be the 35-2.  I raced/cruised on one and 
it was great and a really beautiful boat to look at.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

On Thursday, January 10, 2019, 12:00:21 PM CST, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
I wouldn’t compare the 26 to a MacGregor.  

  

It sounds like you need to get out sailing different boats more to help you 
decide what’s important, or not. 

  

  

  

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 11:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

  

Yes, I am trying to focus on the boat first, starting with a solid 
hull/deck/rig and a sound design. So far, I have yet to come across a boat with 
all of these factors - they are usually deficient in one or more areas, with 
sails being the most common. The last two boats I looked at were mainly 
motored, so sails were original and they had no furlers. In fact, nearly all 
the boats I've seen had original or at least 20+ year old sails. The C 37 had 
a brand new racing main and about 8 other sails, but the boat was a mess. 
Around here, winds are very light and fickle in the summer, when most people 
cruise, so many boats are mainly motored unless they venture beyond the inside 
passage.

  

It's a shame the C 26 isn't a bit stiffer, as it was the first boat I looked 
at in July, in really nice conditon, and I could have got it for $8K and been 
sailing already. But it had a wheel, and was really tight in the cockpit as a 
result, and the idea of a very tender boat doesn't thrill me after sailing a 
friend's MacGregor. 

  

I don't want luxury (we've camped as a family of 4 in a Westfalia for 20 
years), but we will need space for 2 adults to be comfortable inside on rainy 
days, and to also sail/motor in rough conditions in reasonable comfort. 
Anything 27'+ has what we need usually, so it's just a matter of getting a 
solid boat with decent engine, sails and no major flaws that I can't fix easily 
fix. I am prepared to put in the work if the price is right; in fact I would 
prefer it, as I have lots of time, being retired. I am not afraid of engine 
work, so a rebuild doesn't scare me, but the price would have to reflect the 
amount of work needed.

  

Thanks for all the tips!

  

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 wrote:


If this is what you want:

  

"I just want a boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in."

  

For 25k, what I would be focusing on is a bare bones boat - forget about water 
makers, solar panels, and the rest of it. That's just like, my opinion, man. So 
take it for what it's worth. I would avoid that boat at all costs, though I do 
love the MKII. You can cruise without that stuff, it's all just "nice to 
haves". Add as you can down the road. Get a seaworthy boat with solid rigging, 
no soft decks, good sails and a well maintained engine - done. Out here on the 
Lakes there are a lot of racing boats, they are hit or miss. Some of them are 
raced hard and put away wet, others are raced hard and very well cared for. I 
would look for the latter. 

  

Steve

  

  

  

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 11:04 AM David via CnC-List  
wrote:


FYI.

  

All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the engine, 
presumable sized with one take off, not four.  

  

I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told by 
Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.  Many of 
our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.

  

And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.  

  

Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor 
workmanship you cant see?

  

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

  

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions 

 

Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week and 
decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based mainly on 
the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the 70s molded 

Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[T power via CnC-List]

Hi Bob and Fred, Thanks for the info, I never even thought about condensation 
in the locker. I have a 10 LB steel tank, I'm thinking this will be a problem, 
may have to switch to Aluminum.

Thanks for the info on the solenoid, I'm going to look for one. Great tip.

Cheers,

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 12:46 PM
To: Frederick G Street
Cc: Robert Boyer; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

Yes, I forgot that it was also a requirement.  Marinetics is the name of the 
solenoid manufacturer that uses aluminum and stainless steel for construction.  
It costs more than Trident but well worth it in my opinion.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)

On Jan 10, 2019, at 9:47 AM, Frederick G Street 
mailto:f...@postaudio.net>> wrote:

Bob — actually, using two separate hoses is a requirement; it’s not safe to 
have any “taps” or tees outside of the propane locker, so all hoses must split 
after the solenoid in the locker and be continuous runs to the end point.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 9, 2019, at 10:15 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Personally, I would use two separate hoses for the devices, both led from the 
solenoid.  The Trident solenoid is cheap and rusts quickly—I prefer the made by 
(I can’t think of the name right now) but it is made of aluminum and stainless 
steel.  There is a lot of condensation that is created in a propane locker—this 
enables the heavy rusting.

I also really like the propane controls with the sensor(s) and alarms.  If you 
need more info, contact me off-list.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

On Jan 9, 2019, at 1:22 PM, T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.

The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 
feet.

My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 
id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Don’t pay any attention to Dwight or me!  We love our boats so much we let this 
thread wander along with the wrong heading, (1974 36 mk2) just to stay under 
the radar.  You see we both have 1974 C 35-II’s and know just what an anomaly 
they are in the C line.  Sure other boats are faster, but nothing else has 
the same comfort and performance sweet spot.  Racing & Marketing wanted faster 
boats with flatter bottoms, but we are still in love with the ones we have. . .

OK I will shut up now!
Ha- Lee


 
> On Jan 10, 2019, at 4:59 02AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Correct the 35 mkii is very good in light air but that depends on good sails 
> and crew. And also very good in rough seas. The motion comfort factor from 
> the sailing calculator on the cncphotoalbum site predicts very good 
> performance for its length and displacement in rough seas. It is particulary 
> slippery downwind because of that 30 ft 3 inch water line length. Also i 
> happen to really like the boats shear lines and the ample use of teak below 
> decks all fit together flawlessly by what must have been a very good marine 
> carpenter. 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I was really focused on rough weather performance when I was shopping but the 
> reality was much different. After some foolhardy excursions we chose not to 
> sail in rough conditions, it wasn't fun. Out there on the West coast you 
> might not have the choice all the time. This is something I would consider 
> more carefully next time I buy. We're coastal cruisers, most anything will do 
> if you pay attention to the weather. I would take that Westsnail completely 
> off the list.
> 
> The CS 36T is a fabulous boat, that's on my short list for next. But I love 
> C, and they're cheaper. 
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 7:04 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Try looking at a 34.  Love ours.  We are second owner and had her for 20 
> years.  Great in all conditions excels in light air.  Well built.  
> Traditional layout that just works well.  Large enough for hot water, stove 
> with oven, etc.  Easily handled by couple.  Cruise 4 very comfortably.  
> Normally have Yanmar diesels.  Later builds with (80 to 82) have better 
> interiors
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Rod Stright via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 5:19 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Rod Stright
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
> 
>  
> 
> In my view, although older, the C 35 Mark 2 is a great all round boat.  We 
> won our class in the Marblehead to Halifax Ocean race in light airs, and on 
> the trip down in strong headwinds and rough seas, the flare forward kept the 
> bow from submarining into the waves when much larger boats couldn’t cope and 
> had to motor sail much slower.  The flare also deflected the waves back down 
> into the sea making for a much dryer ride than other boats.  A lot of room 
> below compared to the 35 mark 1 (3 feet longer on the waterline as I recall). 
>  Very well built hull, decks may have some soft spots but overall they seem 
> to have stood up fairly well.
> 
>  
> 
> Good luck!!
> 
>  
> 
> Rod Stright
> 
> C 99
> 
> Halifax
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: January-10-19 5:55 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
> 
>  
> 
> Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto 
> album site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it very 
> useful
> 
>  
> 
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Hi Steve,
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings 
> around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and 
> walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island, 
> that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard. There 
> are new private listings starting to appear every day now, but nothing new at 
> the brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what I want yet, so 
> the boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and usually just out of 
> my price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have 
> not been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the interior photos 
> I've seen look great, but it's about double my budget, so I'm now considering 
> the CS 30, but they are much less common here. Lots of C, but anything 
> 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 question

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 I second everything Bailey says, except, insert 37 where he has 36!
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Bailey White via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Bailey White 
Sent: Thu, Jan 10, 2019 1:13 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 question

hi Shawn,
I suspect if you sail that C 36, you will buy it.  I have one like it, a 
1979, and am delighted with its feel under sail and the way the boat works 
under power and at the dock or on the anchor for myself, girlfriend, and any 
friends or family we bring a long.  To me it is the perfect size, and I 
wouldn't want smaller. 
In light air, you can pass other cruising boats.  In heavy, you are relatively 
dry and comfortable.  As a performance sailor, I don't worry about stiffness 
too much.  I can always reduce sail.  I value light air performance as it is 
hard to make the mast longer. 
Your friends who are racers will remark about how nicely the boat steers 
compared to what they were expecting from a boat that is made to be so 
comfortable.  
People at the dock will compliment the boat and you might even feel pride and 
or sheepishness when you spent so little compared to their new big cruising 
power boats.
>From this list, it's pretty clear that all C are this good and if you are 
>willing to spend more, go for the 37/40 or other newer one with more 
>amenities.  
If not, get something like that 36.  I certainly have been pleased with mine.  
That one looks very clean to me and likely has the fundamentals right.  
Bailey





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 question

[Bailey White via CnC-List]

hi Shawn,

I suspect if you sail that C 36, you will buy it.  I have one like it, a
1979, and am delighted with its feel under sail and the way the boat works
under power and at the dock or on the anchor for myself, girlfriend, and
any friends or family we bring a long.  To me it is the perfect size, and I
wouldn't want smaller.

In light air, you can pass other cruising boats.  In heavy, you are
relatively dry and comfortable.  As a performance sailor, I don't worry
about stiffness too much.  I can always reduce sail.  I value light air
performance as it is hard to make the mast longer.

Your friends who are racers will remark about how nicely the boat steers
compared to what they were expecting from a boat that is made to be so
comfortable.

People at the dock will compliment the boat and you might even feel pride
and or sheepishness when you spent so little compared to their new big
cruising power boats.

>From this list, it's pretty clear that all C are this good and if you
are willing to spend more, go for the 37/40 or other newer one with more
amenities.

If not, get something like that 36.  I certainly have been pleased with
mine.

That one looks very clean to me and likely has the fundamentals right.

Bailey
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I wouldn’t compare the 26 to a MacGregor.  

 

It sounds like you need to get out sailing different boats more to help you 
decide what’s important, or not. 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 11:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

 

Yes, I am trying to focus on the boat first, starting with a solid 
hull/deck/rig and a sound design. So far, I have yet to come across a boat with 
all of these factors - they are usually deficient in one or more areas, with 
sails being the most common. The last two boats I looked at were mainly 
motored, so sails were original and they had no furlers. In fact, nearly all 
the boats I've seen had original or at least 20+ year old sails. The C 37 had 
a brand new racing main and about 8 other sails, but the boat was a mess. 
Around here, winds are very light and fickle in the summer, when most people 
cruise, so many boats are mainly motored unless they venture beyond the inside 
passage.

 

It's a shame the C 26 isn't a bit stiffer, as it was the first boat I looked 
at in July, in really nice conditon, and I could have got it for $8K and been 
sailing already. But it had a wheel, and was really tight in the cockpit as a 
result, and the idea of a very tender boat doesn't thrill me after sailing a 
friend's MacGregor. 

 

I don't want luxury (we've camped as a family of 4 in a Westfalia for 20 
years), but we will need space for 2 adults to be comfortable inside on rainy 
days, and to also sail/motor in rough conditions in reasonable comfort. 
Anything 27'+ has what we need usually, so it's just a matter of getting a 
solid boat with decent engine, sails and no major flaws that I can't fix easily 
fix. I am prepared to put in the work if the price is right; in fact I would 
prefer it, as I have lots of time, being retired. I am not afraid of engine 
work, so a rebuild doesn't scare me, but the price would have to reflect the 
amount of work needed.

 

Thanks for all the tips!

 

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

If this is what you want:

 

"I just want a boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in."

 

For 25k, what I would be focusing on is a bare bones boat - forget about water 
makers, solar panels, and the rest of it. That's just like, my opinion, man. So 
take it for what it's worth. I would avoid that boat at all costs, though I do 
love the MKII. You can cruise without that stuff, it's all just "nice to 
haves". Add as you can down the road. Get a seaworthy boat with solid rigging, 
no soft decks, good sails and a well maintained engine - done. Out here on the 
Lakes there are a lot of racing boats, they are hit or miss. Some of them are 
raced hard and put away wet, others are raced hard and very well cared for. I 
would look for the latter. 

 

Steve

 

 

 

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 11:04 AM David via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

FYI.

 

All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the engine, 
presumable sized with one take off, not four.  

 

I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told by 
Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.  Many of 
our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.

 

And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.  

 

Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor 
workmanship you cant see?

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions 

 

Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week and 
decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based mainly on 
the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the 70s molded 
headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the dodger, etc). That 
weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had a feel for the 
interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am changing my opinion of 
the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some boats with the drop-down, 
I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker when not needed. 

 

Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous owner:

 

- water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and 
installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level

- engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not sure how 
it is engaged/disengaged

- dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4 pulleys off 
the crank

- solar 

Stus-List Off list - Re: 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


I sail a 1986 CS 30 on the East coast (Halifax area).
Ended up on the C+C list looking for advice regarding a C+C I was
  looking at 6 yrs ago (similar to you now) - stayed because there
  is some good information.
If you have questions about the CS30 I can offer some advice
I general I'd agree with the comments you're getting from others
  on the list - find a basic boat that is well kept, you can work on
  the details later, or not because you're too busy sailing!
Mark



-
Dr. Mark Bodnar, BSc, DC, FCCPOR(C)
  Chiropractic Rehabilitation Specialist
Bedford Chiropractic  www.BedfordChiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2019-01-10 12:58 a.m., Shawn Wright
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Hi Steve,


Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are
  so few listings around here that they don't have anything to
  show me. I have visited and walked every dock within a 2 hour
  drive from here, but being on an island, that's not a lot of
  boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard. There are
  new private listings starting to appear every day now, but
  nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem is I have not
  nailed down what I want yet, so the boats that have interested
  me are hugely varied, and usually just out of my price range -
  like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have not
  been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the
  interior photos I've seen look great, but it's about double my
  budget, so I'm now considering the CS 30, but they are much
  less common here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is
  usually asking too much, like $30K+. I even looked at Catalina
  30... 


The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K,
  and the broker says it's because the wife says sell, but the
  husband doesn't want to, so he won't drop the price...
There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney
  they are more common that Catalinas) but the prices seem
  higher than most places.


I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel
  for them, as I have only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far.
  And yes, a diesel is a must. Trouble is, I want a decent light
  air boat that can also handle rough seas that we will sea at
  times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that usually
  means at least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K
  CAD. 


But I am learning at lot along the way. :)


Thanks
  
  
  
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via
  CnC-List  wrote:


  Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their
boats is my advice. 


This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a
  hatchback I was selling recently. The guy drove over an
  hour out to the countryside where we live to look at the
  car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up
  fitting how he liked. He would have saved both of us a lot
  of time if he had just gone to a used car lot and done his
  decision making there. Likewise, you can learn a lot
  walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or
  calling on brokers and seeing their boats. Those folks are
  literally paid to show boats. Get your short list figured
  out, buy the first boat that meets your requirements and
  price point. Go sailing. 


For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low
  when I sold it, and went through a broker. Quick sale, and
  only the serious buyers will make the effort. First guy
  who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage off,
  it was a hard decision. 


Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude
  - I'm boatless, and jealous :)


If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I
  REALLY loved my C 32. And they tend to be priced
  lower for whatever reason, they're not great PHRF boats
  and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a
  great handling, and sailing boat that one can cruise on in
  comfort, though. Mine was a 1980, later ones came with
  diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for 18k, sold 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

For comparison, I looked at this '81 36' last month:

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/c-c-36-3240850/?refSource=standard%20listing

Interior seemed very basic, with too much plastic, and the window openings
looked like they forgot to add trim. The baggy fabric covers didn't help,
although I know this is easily fixed. I see it rates PHRF about the same as
the 35-2, despite 2.5' shorter LWL, but it's also 1800 lbs lighter, and 1'
wider. Maybe I should have another look? I don't recall condition of the
sails; at the time I was not impressed based on the $35k CAD asking price.

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 9:12 AM Shawn Wright  wrote:

> Yes, I am trying to focus on the boat first, starting with a solid
> hull/deck/rig and a sound design. So far, I have yet to come across a boat
> with all of these factors - they are usually deficient in one or more
> areas, with sails being the most common. The last two boats I looked at
> were mainly motored, so sails were original and they had no furlers. In
> fact, nearly all the boats I've seen had original or at least 20+ year old
> sails. The C 37 had a brand new racing main and about 8 other sails, but
> the boat was a mess. Around here, winds are very light and fickle in the
> summer, when most people cruise, so many boats are mainly motored unless
> they venture beyond the inside passage.
>
> It's a shame the C 26 isn't a bit stiffer, as it was the first boat I
> looked at in July, in really nice conditon, and I could have got it for $8K
> and been sailing already. But it had a wheel, and was really tight in the
> cockpit as a result, and the idea of a very tender boat doesn't thrill me
> after sailing a friend's MacGregor.
>
> I don't want luxury (we've camped as a family of 4 in a Westfalia for 20
> years), but we will need space for 2 adults to be comfortable inside on
> rainy days, and to also sail/motor in rough conditions in reasonable
> comfort. Anything 27'+ has what we need usually, so it's just a matter of
> getting a solid boat with decent engine, sails and no major flaws that I
> can't fix easily fix. I am prepared to put in the work if the price is
> right; in fact I would prefer it, as I have lots of time, being retired. I
> am not afraid of engine work, so a rebuild doesn't scare me, but the price
> would have to reflect the amount of work needed.
>
> Thanks for all the tips!
>
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> If this is what you want:
>>
>> "I just want a boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in."
>>
>> For 25k, what I would be focusing on is a bare bones boat - forget about
>> water makers, solar panels, and the rest of it. That's just like, my
>> opinion, man. So take it for what it's worth. I would avoid that boat at
>> all costs, though I do love the MKII. You can cruise without that stuff,
>> it's all just "nice to haves". Add as you can down the road. Get a
>> seaworthy boat with solid rigging, no soft decks, good sails and a well
>> maintained engine - done. Out here on the Lakes there are a lot of racing
>> boats, they are hit or miss. Some of them are raced hard and put away wet,
>> others are raced hard and very well cared for. I would look for the latter.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 11:04 AM David via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> FYI.
>>>
>>> All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the
>>> engine, presumable sized with one take off, not four.
>>>
>>> I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told
>>> by Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.
>>> Many of our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.
>>>
>>> And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.
>>>
>>> Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor
>>> workmanship you cant see?
>>>
>>> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>>>
>>> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>>>
>>>
>>> *(401) 419-4650 *
>>>
>>> --
>>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn
>>> Wright via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>>>
>>> Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week
>>> and decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based
>>> mainly on the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the
>>> 70s molded headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the
>>> dodger, etc). That weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had
>>> a feel for the interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am
>>> changing my opinion of the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some
>>> boats with the drop-down, I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker
>>> when not needed.
>>>
>>> Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Yes, I am trying to focus on the boat first, starting with a solid
hull/deck/rig and a sound design. So far, I have yet to come across a boat
with all of these factors - they are usually deficient in one or more
areas, with sails being the most common. The last two boats I looked at
were mainly motored, so sails were original and they had no furlers. In
fact, nearly all the boats I've seen had original or at least 20+ year old
sails. The C 37 had a brand new racing main and about 8 other sails, but
the boat was a mess. Around here, winds are very light and fickle in the
summer, when most people cruise, so many boats are mainly motored unless
they venture beyond the inside passage.

It's a shame the C 26 isn't a bit stiffer, as it was the first boat I
looked at in July, in really nice conditon, and I could have got it for $8K
and been sailing already. But it had a wheel, and was really tight in the
cockpit as a result, and the idea of a very tender boat doesn't thrill me
after sailing a friend's MacGregor.

I don't want luxury (we've camped as a family of 4 in a Westfalia for 20
years), but we will need space for 2 adults to be comfortable inside on
rainy days, and to also sail/motor in rough conditions in reasonable
comfort. Anything 27'+ has what we need usually, so it's just a matter of
getting a solid boat with decent engine, sails and no major flaws that I
can't fix easily fix. I am prepared to put in the work if the price is
right; in fact I would prefer it, as I have lots of time, being retired. I
am not afraid of engine work, so a rebuild doesn't scare me, but the price
would have to reflect the amount of work needed.

Thanks for all the tips!

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If this is what you want:
>
> "I just want a boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in."
>
> For 25k, what I would be focusing on is a bare bones boat - forget about
> water makers, solar panels, and the rest of it. That's just like, my
> opinion, man. So take it for what it's worth. I would avoid that boat at
> all costs, though I do love the MKII. You can cruise without that stuff,
> it's all just "nice to haves". Add as you can down the road. Get a
> seaworthy boat with solid rigging, no soft decks, good sails and a well
> maintained engine - done. Out here on the Lakes there are a lot of racing
> boats, they are hit or miss. Some of them are raced hard and put away wet,
> others are raced hard and very well cared for. I would look for the latter.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 11:04 AM David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> FYI.
>>
>> All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the
>> engine, presumable sized with one take off, not four.
>>
>> I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told by
>> Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.  Many
>> of our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.
>>
>> And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.
>>
>> Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor
>> workmanship you cant see?
>>
>> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>>
>> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>>
>>
>> *(401) 419-4650 *
>>
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn
>> Wright via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>>
>> Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week
>> and decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based
>> mainly on the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the
>> 70s molded headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the
>> dodger, etc). That weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had
>> a feel for the interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am
>> changing my opinion of the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some
>> boats with the drop-down, I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker
>> when not needed.
>>
>> Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous
>> owner:
>>
>> - water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and
>> installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level
>> - engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not
>> sure how it is engaged/disengaged
>> - dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4
>> pulleys off the crank
>> - solar panels over cockpit aft on very heavy aluminum I-beams, room for
>> 4 panels and 6x 6V batteries
>> - solent rig with dual furlers, apparently properly braced below deck,
>> although I didn't verify
>> - huge anchor and roller, along with stainless bow eye in hull - he
>> didn't want anchor to slip I guess. Possibly it was on a mooring buoy so
>> the bow eye would make sense.
>>
>> Although some things 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Sounds nice, but a genset? I'd tear that out and sell it for sure!

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:46 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Shame you're on the West Coast.  There's a nice 35-1 for sale in Louisiana
> that's very well equipped.  (It's NOT Touche'!) See:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r3tWvusWOJozSlOu6XDUCEZ-nYCSvRhu
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 9:55 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week
>> and decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based
>> mainly on the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the
>> 70s molded headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the
>> dodger, etc). That weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had
>> a feel for the interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am
>> changing my opinion of the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some
>> boats with the drop-down, I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker
>> when not needed.
>>
>> Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous
>> owner:
>>
>> - water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and
>> installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level
>> - engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not
>> sure how it is engaged/disengaged
>> - dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4
>> pulleys off the crank
>> - solar panels over cockpit aft on very heavy aluminum I-beams, room for
>> 4 panels and 6x 6V batteries
>> - solent rig with dual furlers, apparently properly braced below deck,
>> although I didn't verify
>> - huge anchor and roller, along with stainless bow eye in hull - he
>> didn't want anchor to slip I guess. Possibly it was on a mooring buoy so
>> the bow eye would make sense.
>>
>> Although some things looked to be fairly well installed, others did not:
>> - poorly finished plywood battery box in port lazarette, along with
>> refrig unit covered in rust (probably not a marine grade unit)
>> - possibly the most annoying were all the holes in the molded headliner,
>> with exposed wiring junctions, etc. I assume some of the wiring is captive
>> so he decided to start cutting small holes. That and the holes for the
>> dodger mounting made it look like swiss cheese. Is the wiring that
>> difficult to upgrade up there? I'd probably try to cover the headliner with
>> panels of white and teak to hide all this, since I'm not a fan of molded
>> liners.
>>
>> The main problem with this boat is that even with all these 'upgrades' in
>> the past 2-3 years, everything from a safety standpoint (at a minimum)
>> becomes suspect to me based on the evidence of questionable workmanship
>> quality. The fact that the VW diesel injection pump was off being repaired
>> was another red flag. I know these engines very well, having rebuilt
>> several, and the injection pumps are bullet proof. Only two things will
>> cause this type of failure: bad fuel, and someone messing with them. My van
>> has an '86 engine with the original pump and >600k kms. It developed a leak
>> this year, but has otherwise been trouble free.
>>
>> It is a shame, because it seems like a solid boat, and the current owner
>> is a very nice guy, but I have too many projects already. I just want a
>> boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 2:56 PM Shawn Wright 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat
>>> for someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in
>>> recent upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like
>>> to see, and there is a bit too much complexity in the engine compartment,
>>> with dual alternators, watermaker, etc. Having now been on two 35s, I can
>>> say that it is still a contender on our list though. The owner is motivated
>>> to sell, so if you're interested, I can pass along his contact info.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:30 AM Shawn Wright 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will
 report back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after
 viewing a Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27.
 Needless to say, I preferred the C, and it just made me more curious
 about Callisto. If the work done appears to be well executed and not a hack
 job. Will report back...

 On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave S via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agree on condition and will add that it’s well Worth paying a bit more
> for a boat with recent upgrades, esp if they are the upgrades you’d make
> anyway.  (The Bimini you’d buy anyway is effectively  free in a used
> boat).

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

If this is what you want:

"I just want a boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in."

For 25k, what I would be focusing on is a bare bones boat - forget about
water makers, solar panels, and the rest of it. That's just like, my
opinion, man. So take it for what it's worth. I would avoid that boat at
all costs, though I do love the MKII. You can cruise without that stuff,
it's all just "nice to haves". Add as you can down the road. Get a
seaworthy boat with solid rigging, no soft decks, good sails and a well
maintained engine - done. Out here on the Lakes there are a lot of racing
boats, they are hit or miss. Some of them are raced hard and put away wet,
others are raced hard and very well cared for. I would look for the latter.

Steve



On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 11:04 AM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> FYI.
>
> All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the
> engine, presumable sized with one take off, not four.
>
> I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told by
> Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.  Many
> of our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.
>
> And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.
>
> Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor
> workmanship you cant see?
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>
> Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week
> and decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based
> mainly on the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the
> 70s molded headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the
> dodger, etc). That weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had
> a feel for the interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am
> changing my opinion of the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some
> boats with the drop-down, I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker
> when not needed.
>
> Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous
> owner:
>
> - water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and
> installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level
> - engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not
> sure how it is engaged/disengaged
> - dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4 pulleys
> off the crank
> - solar panels over cockpit aft on very heavy aluminum I-beams, room for 4
> panels and 6x 6V batteries
> - solent rig with dual furlers, apparently properly braced below deck,
> although I didn't verify
> - huge anchor and roller, along with stainless bow eye in hull - he didn't
> want anchor to slip I guess. Possibly it was on a mooring buoy so the bow
> eye would make sense.
>
> Although some things looked to be fairly well installed, others did not:
> - poorly finished plywood battery box in port lazarette, along with refrig
> unit covered in rust (probably not a marine grade unit)
> - possibly the most annoying were all the holes in the molded headliner,
> with exposed wiring junctions, etc. I assume some of the wiring is captive
> so he decided to start cutting small holes. That and the holes for the
> dodger mounting made it look like swiss cheese. Is the wiring that
> difficult to upgrade up there? I'd probably try to cover the headliner with
> panels of white and teak to hide all this, since I'm not a fan of molded
> liners.
>
> The main problem with this boat is that even with all these 'upgrades' in
> the past 2-3 years, everything from a safety standpoint (at a minimum)
> becomes suspect to me based on the evidence of questionable workmanship
> quality. The fact that the VW diesel injection pump was off being repaired
> was another red flag. I know these engines very well, having rebuilt
> several, and the injection pumps are bullet proof. Only two things will
> cause this type of failure: bad fuel, and someone messing with them. My van
> has an '86 engine with the original pump and >600k kms. It developed a leak
> this year, but has otherwise been trouble free.
>
> It is a shame, because it seems like a solid boat, and the current owner
> is a very nice guy, but I have too many projects already. I just want a
> boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 2:56 PM Shawn Wright 
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat
> for someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in
> recent upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like
> to see, and there is a bit too much complexity in 

Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Yes, I forgot that it was also a requirement.  Marinetics is the name of the 
solenoid manufacturer that uses aluminum and stainless steel for construction.  
It costs more than Trident but well worth it in my opinion.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)

> On Jan 10, 2019, at 9:47 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Bob — actually, using two separate hoses is a requirement; it’s not safe to 
> have any “taps” or tees outside of the propane locker, so all hoses must 
> split after the solenoid in the locker and be continuous runs to the end 
> point.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Jan 9, 2019, at 10:15 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Personally, I would use two separate hoses for the devices, both led from 
>> the solenoid.  The Trident solenoid is cheap and rusts quickly—I prefer the 
>> made by (I can’t think of the name right now) but it is made of aluminum and 
>> stainless steel.  There is a lot of condensation that is created in a 
>> propane locker—this enables the heavy rusting.
>> 
>> I also really like the propane controls with the sensor(s) and alarms.  If 
>> you need more info, contact me off-list.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>>> On Jan 9, 2019, at 1:22 PM, T power via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
>>> Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater. 
>>> 
>>> The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 
>>> 21 feet. 
>>> 
>>> My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 
>>> 3/8 id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 
>>> 1220-1411.
>>> 
>>> Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Tom Power
>>> Invictus
>>> C 30 MK1
>>> Fredericton, NB
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Shame you're on the West Coast.  There's a nice 35-1 for sale in Louisiana
that's very well equipped.  (It's NOT Touche'!) See:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r3tWvusWOJozSlOu6XDUCEZ-nYCSvRhu

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 9:55 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week
> and decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based
> mainly on the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the
> 70s molded headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the
> dodger, etc). That weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had
> a feel for the interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am
> changing my opinion of the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some
> boats with the drop-down, I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker
> when not needed.
>
> Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous
> owner:
>
> - water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and
> installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level
> - engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not
> sure how it is engaged/disengaged
> - dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4 pulleys
> off the crank
> - solar panels over cockpit aft on very heavy aluminum I-beams, room for 4
> panels and 6x 6V batteries
> - solent rig with dual furlers, apparently properly braced below deck,
> although I didn't verify
> - huge anchor and roller, along with stainless bow eye in hull - he didn't
> want anchor to slip I guess. Possibly it was on a mooring buoy so the bow
> eye would make sense.
>
> Although some things looked to be fairly well installed, others did not:
> - poorly finished plywood battery box in port lazarette, along with refrig
> unit covered in rust (probably not a marine grade unit)
> - possibly the most annoying were all the holes in the molded headliner,
> with exposed wiring junctions, etc. I assume some of the wiring is captive
> so he decided to start cutting small holes. That and the holes for the
> dodger mounting made it look like swiss cheese. Is the wiring that
> difficult to upgrade up there? I'd probably try to cover the headliner with
> panels of white and teak to hide all this, since I'm not a fan of molded
> liners.
>
> The main problem with this boat is that even with all these 'upgrades' in
> the past 2-3 years, everything from a safety standpoint (at a minimum)
> becomes suspect to me based on the evidence of questionable workmanship
> quality. The fact that the VW diesel injection pump was off being repaired
> was another red flag. I know these engines very well, having rebuilt
> several, and the injection pumps are bullet proof. Only two things will
> cause this type of failure: bad fuel, and someone messing with them. My van
> has an '86 engine with the original pump and >600k kms. It developed a leak
> this year, but has otherwise been trouble free.
>
> It is a shame, because it seems like a solid boat, and the current owner
> is a very nice guy, but I have too many projects already. I just want a
> boat I can sail, and feel safe and confident in.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 2:56 PM Shawn Wright 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat
>> for someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in
>> recent upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like
>> to see, and there is a bit too much complexity in the engine compartment,
>> with dual alternators, watermaker, etc. Having now been on two 35s, I can
>> say that it is still a contender on our list though. The owner is motivated
>> to sell, so if you're interested, I can pass along his contact info.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:30 AM Shawn Wright 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will
>>> report back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after
>>> viewing a Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27.
>>> Needless to say, I preferred the C, and it just made me more curious
>>> about Callisto. If the work done appears to be well executed and not a hack
>>> job. Will report back...
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave S via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Agree on condition and will add that it’s well Worth paying a bit more
 for a boat with recent upgrades, esp if they are the upgrades you’d make
 anyway.  (The Bimini you’d buy anyway is effectively  free in a used
 boat).
 35-2 was on my shortlist when I bought my 33-2.
 Vs Toronto area Price seems a bit high (as you’d expect from any
 seller) but cash is king  he’s seeking reasonable offers.
 Looks like the boat has already been equipped for the uses you have

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[David via CnC-List]

FYI.

All those power take-offs incrementally reduce the usable HP of the engine, 
presumable sized with one take off, not four.

I chose a 80 amp alternator upgrade in lieu of a 110 amp as I was told by 
Balmar that it might be more relative HP (10%) than you want to lose.  Many of 
our power-plants were not sized on the high side to begin with.

And my only experience with a Pathfinder diesel was not good.

Any boat that gives you a vibe like that...run.  Imagine the stuff/poor 
workmanship you cant see?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week and 
decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based mainly on 
the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the 70s molded 
headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the dodger, etc). That 
weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had a feel for the 
interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am changing my opinion of 
the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some boats with the drop-down, 
I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker when not needed.

Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous owner:

- water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and 
installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level
- engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not sure how 
it is engaged/disengaged
- dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4 pulleys off 
the crank
- solar panels over cockpit aft on very heavy aluminum I-beams, room for 4 
panels and 6x 6V batteries
- solent rig with dual furlers, apparently properly braced below deck, although 
I didn't verify
- huge anchor and roller, along with stainless bow eye in hull - he didn't want 
anchor to slip I guess. Possibly it was on a mooring buoy so the bow eye would 
make sense.

Although some things looked to be fairly well installed, others did not:
- poorly finished plywood battery box in port lazarette, along with refrig unit 
covered in rust (probably not a marine grade unit)
- possibly the most annoying were all the holes in the molded headliner, with 
exposed wiring junctions, etc. I assume some of the wiring is captive so he 
decided to start cutting small holes. That and the holes for the dodger 
mounting made it look like swiss cheese. Is the wiring that difficult to 
upgrade up there? I'd probably try to cover the headliner with panels of white 
and teak to hide all this, since I'm not a fan of molded liners.

The main problem with this boat is that even with all these 'upgrades' in the 
past 2-3 years, everything from a safety standpoint (at a minimum) becomes 
suspect to me based on the evidence of questionable workmanship quality. The 
fact that the VW diesel injection pump was off being repaired was another red 
flag. I know these engines very well, having rebuilt several, and the injection 
pumps are bullet proof. Only two things will cause this type of failure: bad 
fuel, and someone messing with them. My van has an '86 engine with the original 
pump and >600k kms. It developed a leak this year, but has otherwise been 
trouble free.

It is a shame, because it seems like a solid boat, and the current owner is a 
very nice guy, but I have too many projects already. I just want a boat I can 
sail, and feel safe and confident in.

Thanks


On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 2:56 PM Shawn Wright 
mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Hello all,

Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat for 
someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in recent 
upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like to see, and 
there is a bit too much complexity in the engine compartment, with dual 
alternators, watermaker, etc. Having now been on two 35s, I can say that it is 
still a contender on our list though. The owner is motivated to sell, so if 
you're interested, I can pass along his contact info.

Thanks!

On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:30 AM Shawn Wright 
mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will report 
back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after viewing a 
Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27. Needless to say, I 
preferred the C, and it just made me more curious about Callisto. If the work 
done appears to be well executed and not a hack job. Will report back...

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Agree on condition and will add that it’s well Worth paying a bit more for a 
boat with recent upgrades, esp 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Just a bit more info on the C 35-2 'Callisto' that I viewed last week and
decided to pass on. My wife had the same feeling, but hers was based mainly
on the interior (which I didn't think was that bad), aside from the 70s
molded headliner (complete with many holes from wiring mods and the dodger,
etc). That weekend I also was invited aboard another 35-2, so I had a feel
for the interior already. I don't mind it, although I think I am changing
my opinion of the dinette vs. drop-down table; having been on some boats
with the drop-down, I prefer it as it can be out of the way quicker when
not needed.

Anyway, a few other unique things this boat had installed by the previous
owner:

- water maker driven off engine pulley (he owns a watermaker company) and
installed in box to starboard of engine at sole level
- engine driven bilge pump in addition to two electric and manual. Not sure
how it is engaged/disengaged
- dual 65A alternators - all those extra belts are a bit scary - 4 pulleys
off the crank
- solar panels over cockpit aft on very heavy aluminum I-beams, room for 4
panels and 6x 6V batteries
- solent rig with dual furlers, apparently properly braced below deck,
although I didn't verify
- huge anchor and roller, along with stainless bow eye in hull - he didn't
want anchor to slip I guess. Possibly it was on a mooring buoy so the bow
eye would make sense.

Although some things looked to be fairly well installed, others did not:
- poorly finished plywood battery box in port lazarette, along with refrig
unit covered in rust (probably not a marine grade unit)
- possibly the most annoying were all the holes in the molded headliner,
with exposed wiring junctions, etc. I assume some of the wiring is captive
so he decided to start cutting small holes. That and the holes for the
dodger mounting made it look like swiss cheese. Is the wiring that
difficult to upgrade up there? I'd probably try to cover the headliner with
panels of white and teak to hide all this, since I'm not a fan of molded
liners.

The main problem with this boat is that even with all these 'upgrades' in
the past 2-3 years, everything from a safety standpoint (at a minimum)
becomes suspect to me based on the evidence of questionable workmanship
quality. The fact that the VW diesel injection pump was off being repaired
was another red flag. I know these engines very well, having rebuilt
several, and the injection pumps are bullet proof. Only two things will
cause this type of failure: bad fuel, and someone messing with them. My van
has an '86 engine with the original pump and >600k kms. It developed a leak
this year, but has otherwise been trouble free.

It is a shame, because it seems like a solid boat, and the current owner is
a very nice guy, but I have too many projects already. I just want a boat I
can sail, and feel safe and confident in.

Thanks


On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 2:56 PM Shawn Wright  wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat
> for someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in
> recent upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like
> to see, and there is a bit too much complexity in the engine compartment,
> with dual alternators, watermaker, etc. Having now been on two 35s, I can
> say that it is still a contender on our list though. The owner is motivated
> to sell, so if you're interested, I can pass along his contact info.
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:30 AM Shawn Wright 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will
>> report back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after
>> viewing a Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27.
>> Needless to say, I preferred the C, and it just made me more curious
>> about Callisto. If the work done appears to be well executed and not a hack
>> job. Will report back...
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Agree on condition and will add that it’s well Worth paying a bit more
>>> for a boat with recent upgrades, esp if they are the upgrades you’d make
>>> anyway.  (The Bimini you’d buy anyway is effectively  free in a used
>>> boat).
>>> 35-2 was on my shortlist when I bought my 33-2.
>>> Vs Toronto area Price seems a bit high (as you’d expect from any seller)
>>> but cash is king  he’s seeking reasonable offers.
>>> Looks like the boat has already been equipped for the uses you have
>>> planned, and that hard dodger may be perfect for what you want, especially
>>> if you can steer from there, sitting in the companionway.  (Under power Via
>>> autopilot)
>>> Curious about the twin furler mod and how the stays are supported.
>>> Good luck!
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> > On Jan 5, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Condition is everything, and that is not a high price for a reasonably
>>> well-equipped boat in good condition, 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Steve,

Have a C Mk2 that we cruise and race in all the different weather 
that we have in New England ( Spring and Fall 15+kts, late July/early 
Aug light air).   One of he great things about her for cruising is that 
I have a 145 cruising roller furl headsail that we use alone (no main) 
in winds above 12kts.  The boat is well balanced under that headsail 
alone and as my wife says we're not as tippy.


In light air her performance is good due to her longer waterline and 
taller rig (if you compare to other boats you find that the Mk2 compares 
favorably with a ~37 footer).  Because of her weight it takes a little 
longer to get her up to speed, but conversely you can ghost from one 
patch of air to the next.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 1/10/2019 7:48 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I was really focused on rough weather performance when I was shopping 
but the reality was much different. After some foolhardy excursions we 
chose not to sail in rough conditions, it wasn't fun. Out there on the 
West coast you might not have the choice all the time. This is 
something I would consider more carefully next time I buy. We're 
coastal cruisers, most anything will do if you pay attention to the 
weather. I would take that Westsnail completely off the list.


The CS 36T is a fabulous boat, that's on my short list for next. But I 
love C, and they're cheaper.


Steve


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Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — actually, using two separate hoses is a requirement; it’s not safe to 
have any “taps” or tees outside of the propane locker, so all hoses must split 
after the solenoid in the locker and be continuous runs to the end point.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 9, 2019, at 10:15 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Personally, I would use two separate hoses for the devices, both led from the 
> solenoid.  The Trident solenoid is cheap and rusts quickly—I prefer the made 
> by (I can’t think of the name right now) but it is made of aluminum and 
> stainless steel.  There is a lot of condensation that is created in a propane 
> locker—this enables the heavy rusting.
> 
> I also really like the propane controls with the sensor(s) and alarms.  If 
> you need more info, contact me off-list.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> 
> On Jan 9, 2019, at 1:22 PM, T power via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
>> Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater. 
>> 
>> The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 
>> 21 feet. 
>> 
>> My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 
>> 3/8 id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 
>> 1220-1411.
>> 
>> Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Tom Power 
>> Invictus
>> C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
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Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Personally, I would use two separate hoses for the devices, both led from the 
solenoid.  The Trident solenoid is cheap and rusts quickly—I prefer the made by 
(I can’t think of the name right now) but it is made of aluminum and stainless 
steel.  There is a lot of condensation that is created in a propane locker—this 
enables the heavy rusting.

I also really like the propane controls with the sensor(s) and alarms.  If you 
need more info, contact me off-list.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 9, 2019, at 1:22 PM, T power via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
> Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater. 
> 
> The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 
> 21 feet. 
> 
> My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 
> 3/8 id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.
> 
> Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Tom Power
> Invictus
> C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[robert via CnC-List]

Shawn:

Your on the West Coast, I live on the East Coast.the Great Lakes is 
in the middle and there are a lot of boats on the Great Lakes, possibly 
many for sale.


In 2005 I sold a Kirby 25 and was looking for a C 30 MKI all along the 
East Coastcouldn't find one that I was interested in other than one 
for sale right here in Halifaxit had been extensively updated, 
however, there was a potential buyer in 'front of me'he bought the boat.


I kept looking on Yachtworldthen in early 2006 I saw a 1984 C 32 
in Racine, Wisconsinoriginal owner, well maintained and eager to 
sell (he had bought a new Dufour36)


The point is that after the agree selling price, taxes at the border, 
trucking costs, the C cost me approx. $2,500 more than the local C


However, if your budget won't permit you to go above $25K, doing 
something similar in your case might not be in the cards if trucking 
costs are added to the selling price for a Canadian Great Lake boat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2019-01-10 12:58 a.m., Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few 
listings around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have 
visited and walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but 
being on an island, that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising 
grounds in our backyard. There are new private listings starting to 
appear every day now, but nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem 
is I have not nailed down what I want yet, so the boats that have 
interested me are hugely varied, and usually just out of my price 
range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have not 
been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the interior photos 
I've seen look great, but it's about double my budget, so I'm now 
considering the CS 30, but they are much less common here. Lots of 
C, but anything over 27' is usually asking too much, like $30K+. I 
even looked at Catalina 30...


The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker 
says it's because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, 
so he won't drop the price...
There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more 
common that Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.


I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I 
have only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a 
must. Trouble is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle 
rough seas that we will sea at times, especially north of Desolation 
Sound. And that usually means at least 32', which is a challenge to 
get for $20-25K CAD.


But I am learning at lot along the way. :)

Thanks




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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I’m a huge fan of the CS30 and have raced on them. I find the cockpit too 
constrictive to be raced efficiently compared to C in that size but they are 
perfect for cruising. The interiors are thoughtful and well put together and 
represent the best of design prior to the trend to move the head back to the 
companionway. But for that money a later version of a C 30 would be equally 
awesome. 

Brent D
27-5
Stiff Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 10, 2019, at 7:14 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Shawn, 
>  One of the boats you mention as possible candidates is a CS30. I 
> have considerable experience on a friend's CS30, and I can tell you that they 
> are great boats, well constructed, and eminently suitable both for PHRF 
> racing and couple-of-week cruises. They are very similar to a CS33 in 
> creature comfort but they will save you money in marina fees. The main 
> difference I have found between them and the C's in sailing characteristics 
> is a much greater tendency to round up in a puff, (say 30 knots), so you 
> learn to reef the main first and early. All mainsail control lines are 
> factory led to the cockpit which is a nice feature as well. You only need to 
> go forward to hook the tack reef points. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> C


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Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[T power via CnC-List]

Awesome, thanks for the info Eric, much appreciated.

Cheers.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of sender via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 4:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sender
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

The size of gas piping is based on an allowable pressure drop.  The regulator 
should be adjusted to deliver at 11" of water column (approx 0.4psi).  For 
propane appliances the allowable drop is 1".  The Canadian residential gas code 
I have has 3/8 copper tubing, this would be about 5/16 ID, so you'll have to 
extrapolate.  10' length allows 49 000 BTUs, 20' allows 34 000 BTUs and 30' 
allows 27 000 BTUs.

In other words, 2 separate 1/4" hoses manifolding at the regulator will work 
fine.

Eric

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 2:05 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Good answer i agree quarter inch id should provide enough fuel to operate both 
simultaneously unless the outside temp is minus 10 or below
On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 4:56 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Tom — I had hoses made up when I added my Dickinson fireplace years ago; I’m 
pretty sure everything was 1/4” ID with 3/8” flare fittings.  I’ve got the 
usual three-burner range with over in the galley, in addition to the fireplace; 
no issues using them simultaneously.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 9, 2019, at 2:24 PM, T power via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks josh and Doug for you thoughts. The issue I'm running into, it is 
extremely hard to find 3/8" id hose in the proper length. I'm in the process of 
building the propane locker, my plan is to have vapor tight fittings for the 
hose and wiring for the solenoid, the hoses will be complete from the tank to 
the appliance.

I can basically get any length I want in 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare 
fittings, I'm just not sure there will be enough volume for the appliance.

 I ordered a hose for the stove, I thought it was 3/8" id but turned out to be 
1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare fittings on each end.

I guess if the hose does not supply enough volume I can order "custom made" 
hoses (very pricey) and swap them out. Any holes drilled will be the same 
diameter due to the size of the fittings, just a bit of a PITA,


Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2019 4:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svrebeccaleah
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose

Hi Tom,
This from West Marine.

Supply Hoses

To carry the gas from the regulator to the stove or heater, use LPG supply hose 
of the correct length. Note that while these hoses are only carrying 0.5 psi, 
they have a 350 psi working pressure rating, so they are dramatically stronger 
than they have to be. Each supply hose should run continuously from inside the 
propane tank enclosure to the appliance: this is not a case where you can chain 
a bunch of fittings together because you ended up a little short on hose. Use a 
Vapor-Tight Straight-Thru fitting where the hose exits your propane locker. 
Supply hoses connect to the propane appliance using a 3/8" female flare swivel 
and connect to the solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT adapter.

Doug Mountjoy
Sv Rebecca Leah
LH39
Port Orchard YC wa.

 Original message 
From: T power via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 1/9/19 10:22 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Propane hose

Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.

The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 
feet.

My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 
id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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___

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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Shawn, 
  One of the boats you mention as possible candidates is a CS30. I 
have considerable experience on a friend's CS30, and I can tell you that they 
are great boats, well constructed, and eminently suitable both for PHRF racing 
and couple-of-week cruises. They are very similar to a CS33 in creature comfort 
but they will save you money in marina fees. The main difference I have found 
between them and the C's in sailing characteristics is a much greater 
tendency to round up in a puff, (say 30 knots), so you learn to reef the main 
first and early. All mainsail control lines are factory led to the cockpit 
which is a nice feature as well. You only need to go forward to hook the tack 
reef points. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C


 Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hi Steve,

Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings
around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and
walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island,
that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard.
There are new private listings starting to appear every day now, but
nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what
I want yet, so the boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and
usually just out of my price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS
36T. The CS 36T I have not been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby,
and the interior photos I've seen look great, but it's about double my
budget, so I'm now considering the CS 30, but they are much less common
here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is usually asking too much, like
$30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30...

The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says
it's because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he
won't drop the price...
There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common
that Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.

I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I have
only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must.
Trouble is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas
that we will sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that
usually means at least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K CAD.

But I am learning at lot along the way. :)

Thanks

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice.
>
> This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling
> recently. The guy drove over an hour out to the countryside where we live
> to look at the car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up fitting
> how he liked. He would have saved both of us a lot of time if he had just
> gone to a used car lot and done his decision making there. Likewise, you
> can learn a lot walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or
> calling on brokers and seeing their boats. Those folks are literally paid
> to show boats. Get your short list figured out, buy the first boat that
> meets your requirements and price point. Go sailing.
>
> For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low when I sold it, and
> went through a broker. Quick sale, and only the serious buyers will make
> the effort. First guy who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage
> off, it was a hard decision.
>
> Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude - I'm boatless, and
> jealous :)
>
> If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I REALLY loved my C 32.
> And they tend to be priced lower for whatever reason, they're not great
> PHRF boats and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a great
> handling, and sailing boat that one can cruise on in comfort, though. Mine
> was a 1980, later ones came with diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for
> 18k, sold for 25k five years later (and many, many boat bucks of investment
> and hours of work later - and cruises all over Lake Ontario and Georgian
> Bay). I sold a turn-key boat with new sails, solar panels, electrical,
> plumbing, etc etc etc.
>
> FWIW
>
> Steve
>
>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Correct the 35 mkii is very good in light air but that depends on good
sails and crew. And also very good in rough seas. The motion comfort factor
from the sailing calculator on the cncphotoalbum site predicts very good
performance for its length and displacement in rough seas. It is
particulary slippery downwind because of that 30 ft 3 inch water line
length. Also i happen to really like the boats shear lines and the ample
use of teak below decks all fit together flawlessly by what must have been
a very good marine carpenter.

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was really focused on rough weather performance when I was shopping but
> the reality was much different. After some foolhardy excursions we chose
> not to sail in rough conditions, it wasn't fun. Out there on the West coast
> you might not have the choice all the time. This is something I would
> consider more carefully next time I buy. We're coastal cruisers, most
> anything will do if you pay attention to the weather. I would take that
> Westsnail completely off the list.
>
> The CS 36T is a fabulous boat, that's on my short list for next. But I
> love C, and they're cheaper.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 7:04 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Try looking at a 34.  Love ours.  We are second owner and had her for 20
>> years.  Great in all conditions excels in light air.  Well built.
>> Traditional layout that just works well.  Large enough for hot water, stove
>> with oven, etc.  Easily handled by couple.  Cruise 4 very comfortably.
>> Normally have Yanmar diesels.  Later builds with (80 to 82) have better
>> interiors
>>
>>
>>
>> John and Maryann
>>
>> Legacy III
>>
>> 1982 C 34
>>
>> Noank, CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod
>> Stright via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 10, 2019 5:19 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Rod Stright
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>>
>>
>>
>> In my view, although older, the C 35 Mark 2 is a great all round boat.
>> We won our class in the Marblehead to Halifax Ocean race in light airs, and
>> on the trip down in strong headwinds and rough seas, the flare forward kept
>> the bow from submarining into the waves when much larger boats couldn’t
>> cope and had to motor sail much slower.  The flare also deflected the waves
>> back down into the sea making for a much dryer ride than other boats.  A
>> lot of room below compared to the 35 mark 1 (3 feet longer on the waterline
>> as I recall).  Very well built hull, decks may have some soft spots but
>> overall they seem to have stood up fairly well.
>>
>>
>>
>> Good luck!!
>>
>>
>>
>> Rod Stright
>>
>> C 99
>>
>> Halifax
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *dwight
>> veinot via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* January-10-19 5:55 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>>
>>
>>
>> Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto
>> album site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it
>> very useful
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few
>> listings around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have
>> visited and walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on
>> an island, that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our
>> backyard. There are new private listings starting to appear every day now,
>> but nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down
>> what I want yet, so the boats that have interested me are hugely varied,
>> and usually just out of my price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS
>> 36T. The CS 36T I have not been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby,
>> and the interior photos I've seen look great, but it's about double my
>> budget, so I'm now considering the CS 30, but they are much less common
>> here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is usually asking too much, like
>> $30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30...
>>
>>
>>
>> The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says
>> it's because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he
>> won't drop the price...
>>
>> There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common
>> that Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.
>>
>>
>>
>> I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I
>> have only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must.
>> Trouble is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas
>> that we will sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that
>> usually means at least 32', which is a challenge to get for 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I was really focused on rough weather performance when I was shopping but
the reality was much different. After some foolhardy excursions we chose
not to sail in rough conditions, it wasn't fun. Out there on the West coast
you might not have the choice all the time. This is something I would
consider more carefully next time I buy. We're coastal cruisers, most
anything will do if you pay attention to the weather. I would take that
Westsnail completely off the list.

The CS 36T is a fabulous boat, that's on my short list for next. But I love
C, and they're cheaper.

Steve



On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 7:04 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Try looking at a 34.  Love ours.  We are second owner and had her for 20
> years.  Great in all conditions excels in light air.  Well built.
> Traditional layout that just works well.  Large enough for hot water, stove
> with oven, etc.  Easily handled by couple.  Cruise 4 very comfortably.
> Normally have Yanmar diesels.  Later builds with (80 to 82) have better
> interiors
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rod
> Stright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 10, 2019 5:19 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rod Stright
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>
>
>
> In my view, although older, the C 35 Mark 2 is a great all round boat.
> We won our class in the Marblehead to Halifax Ocean race in light airs, and
> on the trip down in strong headwinds and rough seas, the flare forward kept
> the bow from submarining into the waves when much larger boats couldn’t
> cope and had to motor sail much slower.  The flare also deflected the waves
> back down into the sea making for a much dryer ride than other boats.  A
> lot of room below compared to the 35 mark 1 (3 feet longer on the waterline
> as I recall).  Very well built hull, decks may have some soft spots but
> overall they seem to have stood up fairly well.
>
>
>
> Good luck!!
>
>
>
> Rod Stright
>
> C 99
>
> Halifax
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *dwight
> veinot via CnC-List
> *Sent:* January-10-19 5:55 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
>
>
>
> Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto
> album site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it
> very useful
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>
> Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings
> around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and
> walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island,
> that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard.
> There are new private listings starting to appear every day now, but
> nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what
> I want yet, so the boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and
> usually just out of my price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS
> 36T. The CS 36T I have not been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby,
> and the interior photos I've seen look great, but it's about double my
> budget, so I'm now considering the CS 30, but they are much less common
> here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is usually asking too much, like
> $30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30...
>
>
>
> The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says
> it's because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he
> won't drop the price...
>
> There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common
> that Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.
>
>
>
> I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I
> have only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must.
> Trouble is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas
> that we will sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that
> usually means at least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K CAD.
>
>
>
> But I am learning at lot along the way. :)
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice.
>
>
>
> This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling
> recently. The guy drove over an hour out to the countryside where we live
> to look at the car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up fitting
> how he liked. He would have saved both of us a lot of time if he had just
> gone to a used car lot and done his decision making there. Likewise, you
> can learn a lot walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or
> calling on brokers and seeing their boats. Those folks are 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Try looking at a 34.  Love ours.  We are second owner and had her for 20 years. 
 Great in all conditions excels in light air.  Well built.  Traditional layout 
that just works well.  Large enough for hot water, stove with oven, etc.  
Easily handled by couple.  Cruise 4 very comfortably.  Normally have Yanmar 
diesels.  Later builds with (80 to 82) have better interiors 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Stright 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 5:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

 

In my view, although older, the C 35 Mark 2 is a great all round boat.  We 
won our class in the Marblehead to Halifax Ocean race in light airs, and on the 
trip down in strong headwinds and rough seas, the flare forward kept the bow 
from submarining into the waves when much larger boats couldn’t cope and had to 
motor sail much slower.  The flare also deflected the waves back down into the 
sea making for a much dryer ride than other boats.  A lot of room below 
compared to the 35 mark 1 (3 feet longer on the waterline as I recall).  Very 
well built hull, decks may have some soft spots but overall they seem to have 
stood up fairly well.

 

Good luck!!

 

Rod Stright

C 99 

Halifax

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: January-10-19 5:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

 

Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto album 
site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it very useful

 

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Steve,

 

Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings 
around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and walked 
every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island, that's not 
a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard. There are new 
private listings starting to appear every day now, but nothing new at the 
brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what I want yet, so the 
boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and usually just out of my 
price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have not 
been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the interior photos I've 
seen look great, but it's about double my budget, so I'm now considering the CS 
30, but they are much less common here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is 
usually asking too much, like $30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30... 

 

The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says it's 
because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he won't drop 
the price...

There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common that 
Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.

 

I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I have 
only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must. Trouble 
is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas that we will 
sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that usually means at 
least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K CAD. 

 

But I am learning at lot along the way. :)

 

Thanks

 

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice. 

 

This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling 
recently. The guy drove over an hour out to the countryside where we live to 
look at the car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up fitting how he 
liked. He would have saved both of us a lot of time if he had just gone to a 
used car lot and done his decision making there. Likewise, you can learn a lot 
walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or calling on brokers and 
seeing their boats. Those folks are literally paid to show boats. Get your 
short list figured out, buy the first boat that meets your requirements and 
price point. Go sailing. 

 

For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low when I sold it, and went 
through a broker. Quick sale, and only the serious buyers will make the effort. 
First guy who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage off, it was a 
hard decision. 

 

Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude - I'm boatless, and 
jealous :)

 

If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I REALLY loved my C 32. And 
they tend to be priced lower for whatever reason, they're not great PHRF boats 
and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a great handling, and 
sailing boat that one can cruise on in comfort, though. Mine was a 1980, later 
ones came with diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for 18k, sold for 25k five 
years 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

In my view, although older, the C 35 Mark 2 is a great all round boat.  We 
won our class in the Marblehead to Halifax Ocean race in light airs, and on the 
trip down in strong headwinds and rough seas, the flare forward kept the bow 
from submarining into the waves when much larger boats couldn’t cope and had to 
motor sail much slower.  The flare also deflected the waves back down into the 
sea making for a much dryer ride than other boats.  A lot of room below 
compared to the 35 mark 1 (3 feet longer on the waterline as I recall).  Very 
well built hull, decks may have some soft spots but overall they seem to have 
stood up fairly well.



Good luck!!



Rod Stright

C 99

Halifax



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: January-10-19 5:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions



Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto album 
site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it very useful



On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Steve,



Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings 
around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and walked 
every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island, that's not 
a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard. There are new 
private listings starting to appear every day now, but nothing new at the 
brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what I want yet, so the 
boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and usually just out of my 
price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have not 
been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the interior photos I've 
seen look great, but it's about double my budget, so I'm now considering the CS 
30, but they are much less common here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is 
usually asking too much, like $30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30...



The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says it's 
because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he won't drop 
the price...

There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common that 
Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.



I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I have 
only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must. Trouble 
is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas that we will 
sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that usually means at 
least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K CAD.



But I am learning at lot along the way. :)



Thanks



On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice.



This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling 
recently. The guy drove over an hour out to the countryside where we live to 
look at the car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up fitting how he 
liked. He would have saved both of us a lot of time if he had just gone to a 
used car lot and done his decision making there. Likewise, you can learn a lot 
walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or calling on brokers and 
seeing their boats. Those folks are literally paid to show boats. Get your 
short list figured out, buy the first boat that meets your requirements and 
price point. Go sailing.



For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low when I sold it, and went 
through a broker. Quick sale, and only the serious buyers will make the effort. 
First guy who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage off, it was a 
hard decision.



Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude - I'm boatless, and 
jealous :)



If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I REALLY loved my C 32. And 
they tend to be priced lower for whatever reason, they're not great PHRF boats 
and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a great handling, and 
sailing boat that one can cruise on in comfort, though. Mine was a 1980, later 
ones came with diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for 18k, sold for 25k five 
years later (and many, many boat bucks of investment and hours of work later - 
and cruises all over Lake Ontario and Georgian Bay). I sold a turn-key boat 
with new sails, solar panels, electrical, plumbing, etc etc etc.



FWIW



Steve





On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 5:57 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello all,



Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat for 
someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in recent 
upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like to see, and 
there is a bit too much complexity in 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto
album site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it
very useful

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Steve,
>
> Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings
> around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and
> walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island,
> that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard.
> There are new private listings starting to appear every day now, but
> nothing new at the brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what
> I want yet, so the boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and
> usually just out of my price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS
> 36T. The CS 36T I have not been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby,
> and the interior photos I've seen look great, but it's about double my
> budget, so I'm now considering the CS 30, but they are much less common
> here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is usually asking too much, like
> $30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30...
>
> The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says
> it's because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he
> won't drop the price...
> There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common
> that Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.
>
> I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I
> have only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must.
> Trouble is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas
> that we will sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that
> usually means at least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K CAD.
>
> But I am learning at lot along the way. :)
>
> Thanks
>
> On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice.
>>
>> This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling
>> recently. The guy drove over an hour out to the countryside where we live
>> to look at the car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up fitting
>> how he liked. He would have saved both of us a lot of time if he had just
>> gone to a used car lot and done his decision making there. Likewise, you
>> can learn a lot walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or
>> calling on brokers and seeing their boats. Those folks are literally paid
>> to show boats. Get your short list figured out, buy the first boat that
>> meets your requirements and price point. Go sailing.
>>
>> For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low when I sold it, and
>> went through a broker. Quick sale, and only the serious buyers will make
>> the effort. First guy who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage
>> off, it was a hard decision.
>>
>> Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude - I'm boatless,
>> and jealous :)
>>
>> If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I REALLY loved my C
>> 32. And they tend to be priced lower for whatever reason, they're not great
>> PHRF boats and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a great
>> handling, and sailing boat that one can cruise on in comfort, though. Mine
>> was a 1980, later ones came with diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for
>> 18k, sold for 25k five years later (and many, many boat bucks of investment
>> and hours of work later - and cruises all over Lake Ontario and Georgian
>> Bay). I sold a turn-key boat with new sails, solar panels, electrical,
>> plumbing, etc etc etc.
>>
>> FWIW
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 5:57 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat
>>> for someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in
>>> recent upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like
>>> to see, and there is a bit too much complexity in the engine compartment,
>>> with dual alternators, watermaker, etc. Having now been on two 35s, I can
>>> say that it is still a contender on our list though. The owner is motivated
>>> to sell, so if you're interested, I can pass along his contact info.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:30 AM Shawn Wright 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will
 report back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after
 viewing a Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27.
 Needless to say, I preferred the C, and it just made me more curious
 about Callisto. If the work done appears to be well executed and not a hack
 job. Will report back...

 On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 

Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[sender via CnC-List]

The size of gas piping is based on an allowable pressure drop.  The
regulator should be adjusted to deliver at 11" of water column (approx
0.4psi).  For propane appliances the allowable drop is 1".  The Canadian
residential gas code I have has 3/8 copper tubing, this would be about 5/16
ID, so you'll have to extrapolate.  10' length allows 49 000 BTUs, 20'
allows 34 000 BTUs and 30' allows 27 000 BTUs.

In other words, 2 separate 1/4" hoses manifolding at the regulator will
work fine.

Eric

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 2:05 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good answer i agree quarter inch id should provide enough fuel to operate
> both simultaneously unless the outside temp is minus 10 or below
> On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 4:56 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tom — I had hoses made up when I added my Dickinson fireplace years ago;
>> I’m pretty sure everything was 1/4” ID with 3/8” flare fittings.  I’ve got
>> the usual three-burner range with over in the galley, in addition to the
>> fireplace; no issues using them simultaneously.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>> On Jan 9, 2019, at 2:24 PM, T power via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks josh and Doug for you thoughts. The issue I'm running into, it is
>> extremely hard to find 3/8" id hose in the proper length. I'm in the
>> process of building the propane locker, my plan is to have vapor tight
>> fittings for the hose and wiring for the solenoid, the hoses will be
>> complete from the tank to the appliance.
>>
>> I can basically get any length I want in 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare
>> fittings, I'm just not sure there will be enough volume for the appliance.
>>
>>  I ordered a hose for the stove, I thought it was 3/8" id but turned out
>> to be 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare fittings on each end.
>>
>> I guess if the hose does not supply enough volume I can order "custom
>> made" hoses (very pricey) and swap them out. Any holes drilled will be the
>> same diameter due to the size of the fittings, just a bit of a PITA,
>>
>>
>> Tom Power 
>> Invictus
>> C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of
>> svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 9, 2019 4:06 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* svrebeccaleah
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propane hose
>>
>> Hi Tom,
>> This from West Marine.
>>
>> Supply Hoses 
>>
>> To carry the gas from the regulator to the stove or heater, use LPG
>> supply hose of the correct length. Note that while these hoses are only
>> carrying 0.5 psi, they have a 350 psi working pressure rating, so they are
>> dramatically stronger than they have to be. Each supply hose should run
>> continuously from inside the propane tank enclosure to the appliance: this
>> is not a case where you can chain a bunch of fittings together because you
>> ended up a little short on hose. Use a Vapor-Tight Straight-Thru fitting
>> where the hose exits your propane locker. Supply hoses connect to the
>> propane appliance using a 3/8" female flare swivel and connect to the
>> solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT adapter.
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>> Sv Rebecca Leah
>> LH39
>> Port Orchard YC wa.
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: T power via CnC-List 
>> Date: 1/9/19 10:22 (GMT-08:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: T power 
>> Subject: Stus-List Propane hose
>>
>> Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson
>> Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater.
>>
>> The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater
>> is 21 feet.
>>
>> My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose
>> verses 3/8 id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N
>> 1220-1411.
>>
>> Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Tom Power 
>> Invictus
>> C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
>> ___
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>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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