Re: Stus-List Kaylarah is for sale

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

Lovely boat. Sadly way out of my price range. Good luck with the sale.

Paul.
Orange Crush
'74 27Mk1TM (or a Mk2 if you prefer)
Sooke, BC.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Gary Russell via 
CnC-List 
Sent: April 10, 2019 11:15 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Kaylarah is for sale

Kaylarah is for sale.  It turns out that a 40' sailboat is a bit much on a 
retirement income .  She can be view on Yachtworld.  If anyone is interested, 
please contact me.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My boat has inspection panels, about 6" square that gives me access to the
through bolt chain plate nuts. Not sure if you could do something similar
with your boat.

Regarding the headliner, I replaced the thin plywood panels, that got
weathered by leaks, with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic), held in place
with Velcro. FRP is available at Home Depot. Another solution is using
cloth material. Sailrite has a "How To" video about using carpet style
material for a headliner.

https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Install-Carpet-Style-Headliner-Video

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 2:23 PM james via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Shawn,
>
> My boat came with vinyl covered plywood panels that are held in place by
> velcro. They had become pretty ragged and warped so I replaced them with
> "foamed PVC" sheet. They look very nice. I can't find any pics of them but
> I'll email you a before pic. I'm not sure that would work on your boat, but
> it's an idea
>
> James Taylor
>
> Delaney, 1976 C 38
>
> Oriental, NC
> On 4/10/2019 11:36 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
>
> We are considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a number of holes
> drilled through the interior headliner, for the purpose of through-bolting
> (and apparently epoxy filling/drilling, but not confirmed by me) various
> hardware, including replacement stainless grab rails. In some areas, 4-8"
> circular holes were cut, and white acrylic panels similar to the factory
> panels were added, which look ok. For the grab rails, there is just a
> series of 1" holes. There are also a few places where access was cut for
> wiring. As a result, the headliner is not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss
> cheese look.
>
> What I am wondering is whether anyone has successfully made a headliner
> cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid material like I've seen done on
> other boats. My first thought is that the complex curves in the cabin top
> would make this very difficult to do well. I have seen one example where
> the white covers were in teak veneer (maybe this was an option?) but I
> think that might just make them stand out more.
>
> Also, something more critical than headliners - what do I look for when
> inspecting the chainplates on the 35-2? If I get a chance on this boat, I
> will need to look closely at them. Are they visible behind the sliding
> storage doors, or do I need to take things apart to fully inspect?
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[Kurt Heckert via CnC-List]

The Chainplates on the 35-2 are easily accessible behind the sliding doors, I 
would look for signs of water coming in from the cover plates, also look for 
any thing oozing from around the bolts. Also tap on them with a screw driver 
handle and listen for echos. I don’t know if the chain plate bulkheads are 
cored or solid fiberglass.

Kurt & Connie Heckert


On Wed, 4/10/19, james via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection
 To: "Shawn Wright via CnC-List" 
 Cc: "james" 
 Date: Wednesday, April 10, 2019, 5:22 PM
 
 
 Shawn, 
 
 
 My boat came with vinyl covered plywood panels that
 are held in
   place by velcro. They had become pretty ragged and
 warped so I
   replaced them with "foamed PVC" sheet. They
 look very nice. I
   can't find any pics of them but I'll email you
 a before pic. I'm
   not sure that would work on your boat, but it's an
 idea
 James Taylor
 Delaney, 1976 C 38
 Oriental, NC
 
 
 On 4/10/2019 11:36 AM,
 Shawn Wright via
   CnC-List wrote:
 
 
 
   We are
 considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a
 number of holes drilled through the interior
 headliner, for the
 purpose of through-bolting (and apparently epoxy
 filling/drilling, but not confirmed by me) various
 hardware,
 including replacement stainless grab rails. In some
 areas, 4-8"
 circular holes were cut, and white acrylic panels
 similar to the
 factory panels were added, which look ok. For the
 grab rails,
 there is just a series of 1" holes. There are
 also a few places
 where access was cut for wiring. As a result, the
 headliner is
 not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss cheese look. 
 
 
 
 What I am wondering is whether anyone has
 successfully made
   a headliner cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid
 material
   like I've seen done on other boats. My first
 thought is that
   the complex curves in the cabin top would make
 this very
   difficult to do well. I have seen one example
 where the white
   covers were in teak veneer (maybe this was an
 option?) but I
   think that might just make them stand out
 more.
 
 
 
 Also, something more critical than headliners -
 what do I
   look for when inspecting the chainplates on the
 35-2? If I get
   a chance on this boat, I will need to look closely
 at them.
   Are they visible behind the sliding storage doors,
 or do I
   need to take things apart to fully inspect?
 
   
 
   
   -- 
 
   
 Shawn Wright
 shawngwri...@gmail.com
   
 
   
   
 
   
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 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 
 If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send
 contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 
   ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Sounds good, let's keep in touch.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Mon, 8 Apr 2019 at 20:40, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Enjoy the wedding. I'll be in the San Juan Islands in early July. Perhaps
> we can meet up then.
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 12:45 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not this year, unfortunately. We will be on our way to Saskatchewan for a
>> wedding. We'll hope for the rendezvous.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>>
>> On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 07:51, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Jim:
>>>
>>> I hope you and Anne can come to the RVYC BBQ after the race. Else we'll
>>> get together at the rendezvous.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 7:36 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 We'll have to connect! Looking forward to seeing you and Thirsty again.

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC




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Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[james via CnC-List]

Shawn,

My boat came with vinyl covered plywood panels that are held in place by 
velcro. They had become pretty ragged and warped so I replaced them with 
"foamed PVC" sheet. They look very nice. I can't find any pics of them 
but I'll email you a before pic. I'm not sure that would work on your 
boat, but it's an idea


James Taylor

Delaney, 1976 C 38

Oriental, NC

On 4/10/2019 11:36 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
We are considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a number of holes 
drilled through the interior headliner, for the purpose of 
through-bolting (and apparently epoxy filling/drilling, but not 
confirmed by me) various hardware, including replacement stainless 
grab rails. In some areas, 4-8" circular holes were cut, and white 
acrylic panels similar to the factory panels were added, which look 
ok. For the grab rails, there is just a series of 1" holes. There are 
also a few places where access was cut for wiring. As a result, the 
headliner is not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss cheese look.


What I am wondering is whether anyone has successfully made a 
headliner cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid material like I've 
seen done on other boats. My first thought is that the complex curves 
in the cabin top would make this very difficult to do well. I have 
seen one example where the white covers were in teak veneer (maybe 
this was an option?) but I think that might just make them stand out more.


Also, something more critical than headliners - what do I look for 
when inspecting the chainplates on the 35-2? If I get a chance on this 
boat, I will need to look closely at them. Are they visible behind the 
sliding storage doors, or do I need to take things apart to fully inspect?


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 

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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Dave. via CnC-List]

Please always use a second halyard for safety. Many years ago I hoisted my wife 
up the mast using the jib halyard, all went fine but in the next race when I 
cranked hard on the jib halyard winch the halyard parted.
Dave.
1975 C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 10, 2019, at 11:51 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I don’t know about backup devices, but I can tell you that the ATN climber 
> keeps you very close to the mast (closer as you ascend).  I’ve only used mine 
> at the dock, however.
>  
> If you have a painted mast, you may want to tape or otherwise cover (I use a 
> piece of foam) the ATN’s metal parts.
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 1:42 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Climbing the mast
>  
> I picked up a used Mastclimber on Ebay this winter.  I have not used it yet, 
> but am thinking ahead so I am ready when I need it.  When I went up the mast 
> a few years ago with an expert’s equipment and help, I was pulled up on a 
> halyard and the main winch.  I had a strap around the mast to keep me from 
> swinging out away from the mast in waves.  The ATN device allows you to climb 
> a fixed halyard so should have less tendency for swinging.  I am wondering if 
> I should still have a safety strap around the mast, but if so,  it must be 
> something that is easily attached and detached to get above spreaders.  Do 
> the expert climbers in the group think that safety is necessary, and if so, 
> what device do I want?  Line with carabiners on each end or something else?  
> Thanks- Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

*Oregon Offshore Update: * Another C 115 '
*Fortuna*' has jumped in the mix. '*Defiant'* is the other C 115 (not a
110). Along with Alan's *Thirsty* there is some decent brand representation
this year. The entry list is particularly strong this running with many
strong racing boats from Seattle doing a tough delivery all the way down to
Astoria for the start. To name a few:

   - *Fortuna
   * C
   115
   - *Selkie
   

   *Express 37
   - *Salient  *Beneteau 40.7
   - *Envolee
   

   *Figaro 2 (San Franscisco)
   - *Image
   

   *Catalina 38
   - *True Love
   

*

Another exciting entry this year is Scott Campbells'  *Riva *a new J121
with a seasoned crew. (old Riva was a J46). I personally will be on the
foredeck of the V*elocity *J42 crew again for an off brand, but reasonably
fast race up the coast on well dialed in boat with a great group. See you
in Victoria cousins!

Kevin C 30-2 *Osprey*
Portland


Kevin Driscoll



On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 8:40 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Enjoy the wedding. I'll be in the San Juan Islands in early July. Perhaps
> we can meet up then.
>
> Alan
>
> On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 12:45 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not this year, unfortunately. We will be on our way to Saskatchewan for a
>> wedding. We'll hope for the rendezvous.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>>
>> On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 07:51, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Jim:
>>>
>>> I hope you and Anne can come to the RVYC BBQ after the race. Else we'll
>>> get together at the rendezvous.
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 7:36 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 We'll have to connect! Looking forward to seeing you and Thirsty again.

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC




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>>>
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>>>
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

David,

The first safety rule is that you need TWO lines securing you. You climb on one 
halyard (usually main) and use a second halyard (jib, spinnaker?) as a 
secondary safety line.

Additionally, I would suggest having a length of webbing (climbing tubular 
webbing tied in a loop) with a carabiner, which you would use to keep you close 
to the mast. It should be long enough to let you move comfortably, but short 
enough to prevent swinging. The loop should be attached to your harness. Such 
loop would also protect you in case that everything else fails - if you slide 
down the mast you would hang on the spreaders (if you are above; but if you are 
below you would land with a thud, but probably without much damage, on the 
deck).

Never use shackles or worse yet, quick-release shackles in your personal safety 
gear. Use knots that you trust. I use a bowline, but many would question its 
reliability. An alpine butterfly or similar knot is much better.

Btw. If you climb aloft and plan to do any work, consider using some foot 
loops. If you are sitting in the harness or the bosun’s chair, you can only 
reach within your arms length. If you have foot loops attached to the same 
line, you can stand in the loops and could do much more up there. This pays 
big, especially when you have to work at the mast head - your harness would 
hold you to the height of the halyard sheave (and not any higher), but you may 
want to look at the mast head from above. If you have these foot loops attached 
around the mast, you would have a very strong foothold and almost a secure 
platform to stand on.

And lastly - for any mast climbing exercises, use mountaineering climbing gear 
(not sailing gear). It is lighter, better and easier to use (people who 
designed it use it a lot).

Good luck

Marek

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 13:42
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Climbing the mast

I picked up a used Mastclimber on Ebay this winter.  I have not used it yet, 
but am thinking ahead so I am ready when I need it.  When I went up the mast a 
few years ago with an expert’s equipment and help, I was pulled up on a halyard 
and the main winch.  I had a strap around the mast to keep me from swinging out 
away from the mast in waves.  The ATN device allows you to climb a fixed 
halyard so should have less tendency for swinging.  I am wondering if I should 
still have a safety strap around the mast, but if so,  it must be something 
that is easily attached and detached to get above spreaders.  Do the expert 
climbers in the group think that safety is necessary, and if so, what device do 
I want?  Line with carabiners on each end or something else?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D4EFAF.A6630710]

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Re: Stus-List Kaylarah is for sale

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,
Sorry that retirement is forcing the boat sale. She looks beautiful.
I'm fast approaching that rite of passage and working on ways to reduce the 
monthly fees for TV, cell phones and Internet access. Our property taxes are 
killing us, so I'm looking to downsize the house or move out of state.

Chuck S, Resolute 1990 C 34R


> On April 10, 2019 at 2:17 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Oops.  Forgot the link to Yachtworld 
> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-plus-3504634/?refSource=standard%20listing
>  .
> Gary
> ~~~ _/ )~~
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 2:16 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Kaylarah is for sale.  It turns out that a 40' sailboat 
> is a bit much on a retirement income .  She can be view on Yachtworld.  If 
> anyone is interested, please contact me.
> > 
> > Gary
> > S/V Kaylarah
> > '90 C 37+
> > East Greenwich, RI, USA
> > ~~~ _/ )~~
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
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> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I don’t know about backup devices, but I can tell you that the ATN climber 
keeps you very close to the mast (closer as you ascend).  I’ve only used mine 
at the dock, however.

If you have a painted mast, you may want to tape or otherwise cover (I use a 
piece of foam) the ATN’s metal parts. 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 1:42 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Climbing the mast

I picked up a used Mastclimber on Ebay this winter.  I have not used it yet, 
but am thinking ahead so I am ready when I need it.  When I went up the mast a 
few years ago with an expert’s equipment and help, I was pulled up on a halyard 
and the main winch.  I had a strap around the mast to keep me from swinging out 
away from the mast in waves.  The ATN device allows you to climb a fixed 
halyard so should have less tendency for swinging.  I am wondering if I should 
still have a safety strap around the mast, but if so,  it must be something 
that is easily attached and detached to get above spreaders.  Do the expert 
climbers in the group think that safety is necessary, and if so, what device do 
I want?  Line with carabiners on each end or something else?  Thanks- Dave 

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

 




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Re: Stus-List Kaylarah is for sale

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Gary,

What a shame. I hope she finds a good home. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 


On Apr 10, 2019, at 2:17 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

Oops.  Forgot the link to Yachtworld 
.
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 2:16 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Kaylarah is for sale.  It turns out that a 40' sailboat is a bit much on a 
retirement income .  She can be view on Yachtworld.  If anyone is interested, 
please contact me.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List Kaylarah is for sale

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Oops.  Forgot the link to Yachtworld

.
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 2:16 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Kaylarah is for sale.  It turns out that a 40' sailboat is a bit much on a
> retirement income .  She can be view on Yachtworld.  If anyone is
> interested, please contact me.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Kaylarah is for sale

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Kaylarah is for sale.  It turns out that a 40' sailboat is a bit much on a
retirement income .  She can be view on Yachtworld.  If anyone is
interested, please contact me.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Dan via CnC-List]

Hi David,
I had my Girlfriend winch me up on a halyard using a bosun's chair, but I
also wore a climbing harness with an ascender on a second halyard purchased
from MEC (Mountain Equipment Co-Op). The ascender will slide up a line, but
will not slide back down unless you hit a trigger switch.
Here is video I made showing this gear and my climb to the top:

https://youtu.be/_r2UgaEk0jE

Someone told me after the fact that I should have tied the halyard to my
bosun's chair instead of using the metal release clip which have been known
to fail...

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS




On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 2:42 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I picked up a used Mastclimber on Ebay this winter.  I have not used it
> yet, but am thinking ahead so I am ready when I need it.  When I went up
> the mast a few years ago with an expert’s equipment and help, I was pulled
> up on a halyard and the main winch.  I had a strap around the mast to keep
> me from swinging out away from the mast in waves.  The ATN device allows
> you to climb a fixed halyard so should have less tendency for swinging.  I
> am wondering if I should still have a safety strap around the mast, but if
> so,  it must be something that is easily attached and detached to get above
> spreaders.  Do the expert climbers in the group think that safety is
> necessary, and if so, what device do I want?  Line with carabiners on each
> end or something else?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Climbing the mast

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I picked up a used Mastclimber on Ebay this winter.  I have not used it yet, 
but am thinking ahead so I am ready when I need it.  When I went up the mast a 
few years ago with an expert’s equipment and help, I was pulled up on a halyard 
and the main winch.  I had a strap around the mast to keep me from swinging out 
away from the mast in waves.  The ATN device allows you to climb a fixed 
halyard so should have less tendency for swinging.  I am wondering if I should 
still have a safety strap around the mast, but if so,  it must be something 
that is easily attached and detached to get above spreaders.  Do the expert 
climbers in the group think that safety is necessary, and if so, what device do 
I want?  Line with carabiners on each end or something else?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn,

Also have a C 35 Mk2 with not quite the number of holes in the 
overhead.   Last year I tidied up the the cabin by painting all the 
larger 4 - 8" covers white, since they had yellowed with age. Also 
bought a bag of 50 plastic hole plugs, 3/4" opening from dangoodbuy on 
ebay, which were translucent white nylon that I painted the same white.


https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=nylon+hole+plugs&_ssn=dangoodbuy&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=hole+plugs+white+nylon++3%2F4%22&_sacat=0

Don Kern
Fireball C Mk-2
Bristol, RI




On 4/10/2019 11:36 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
We are considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a number of holes 
drilled through the interior headliner, for the purpose of 
through-bolting (and apparently epoxy filling/drilling, but not 
confirmed by me) various hardware, including replacement stainless 
grab rails. In some areas, 4-8" circular holes were cut, and white 
acrylic panels similar to the factory panels were added, which look 
ok. For the grab rails, there is just a series of 1" holes. There are 
also a few places where access was cut for wiring. As a result, the 
headliner is not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss cheese look.


What I am wondering is whether anyone has successfully made a 
headliner cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid material like I've 
seen done on other boats. My first thought is that the complex curves 
in the cabin top would make this very difficult to do well. I have 
seen one example where the white covers were in teak veneer (maybe 
this was an option?) but I think that might just make them stand out more.


Also, something more critical than headliners - what do I look for 
when inspecting the chainplates on the 35-2? If I get a chance on this 
boat, I will need to look closely at them. Are they visible behind the 
sliding storage doors, or do I need to take things apart to fully inspect?


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 

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Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Bulkheads and chainplates are visible behind the sliders.

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019, 11:37 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We are considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a number of holes
> drilled through the interior headliner, for the purpose of through-bolting
> (and apparently epoxy filling/drilling, but not confirmed by me) various
> hardware, including replacement stainless grab rails. In some areas, 4-8"
> circular holes were cut, and white acrylic panels similar to the factory
> panels were added, which look ok. For the grab rails, there is just a
> series of 1" holes. There are also a few places where access was cut for
> wiring. As a result, the headliner is not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss
> cheese look.
>
> What I am wondering is whether anyone has successfully made a headliner
> cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid material like I've seen done on
> other boats. My first thought is that the complex curves in the cabin top
> would make this very difficult to do well. I have seen one example where
> the white covers were in teak veneer (maybe this was an option?) but I
> think that might just make them stand out more.
>
> Also, something more critical than headliners - what do I look for when
> inspecting the chainplates on the 35-2? If I get a chance on this boat, I
> will need to look closely at them. Are they visible behind the sliding
> storage doors, or do I need to take things apart to fully inspect?
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

We are considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a number of holes drilled
through the interior headliner, for the purpose of through-bolting (and
apparently epoxy filling/drilling, but not confirmed by me) various
hardware, including replacement stainless grab rails. In some areas, 4-8"
circular holes were cut, and white acrylic panels similar to the factory
panels were added, which look ok. For the grab rails, there is just a
series of 1" holes. There are also a few places where access was cut for
wiring. As a result, the headliner is not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss
cheese look.

What I am wondering is whether anyone has successfully made a headliner
cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid material like I've seen done on
other boats. My first thought is that the complex curves in the cabin top
would make this very difficult to do well. I have seen one example where
the white covers were in teak veneer (maybe this was an option?) but I
think that might just make them stand out more.

Also, something more critical than headliners - what do I look for when
inspecting the chainplates on the 35-2? If I get a chance on this boat, I
will need to look closely at them. Are they visible behind the sliding
storage doors, or do I need to take things apart to fully inspect?

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

A friend of mine places a small rope to act as a wick to get the last little 
bit.  Seems to work well for him.

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

 

A friend does exactly this on his C 35 Mk.1 and has been doing it for years.  
Works well.

 

Ken H.

 

On Wed, 10 Apr 2019 at 08:24, dwight veinot via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Even with a garboard drain hole it is impossible to keep the bilge in my 35 
MKII completely dry unless I use a sponge to sop up water in the depressions 
between the athwartship glass belts that provide added strength where the keel 
bolts exit into the bilge. There are no limber holes to allow water to flow 
forward or aft past these strength members. Every fall i drill a 1/2 inch hole 
angled downward from the inside port side at the lowest spot between one pair 
of these strength members and every spring I clean the inside of that hole with 
sand paper followed by a wssh with an acetone soaked rag. After drying i put a 
small wood plug in to about 1/8 inch depth from the outside and use a syringe 
filled with thickened epoxy from the inside to fill the hole from the bottom up 
to avoid entrapped air. When filled I put a small bandage of paper towel over 
the epoxy but because the drain hole is angled downward and the hole is about 
an inch long the epoxy stays put until cured. Once cured i remove the wood 
plug, fair with a dab a light car body filler and apply bottom paint. My 
prefered way to avoid installing a rather bulky regular garboard drain. Not a 
lot of work either and i trust the epoxy plug won’t leak. So far after about 12 
years of doing it this way no complaints or problems. 

 

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM Eric Frank via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2 with 
great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this list serve 
but it works very well.  Moving the magnets around, I found the lowest place in 
the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable place where the keel 
is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside, once the position was 
marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the contour of the hull/keel 
joint, came out just where the internal magnet had been located.  Drilled a 
pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the right place in the bilge. An 
improvement this winter was to pull a piece of absorbent cloth thru the hole 
and hanging down a few inches on the outside, which acted like a wick. This 
kept the bilge completely dry all winter. Based on an earlier suggestion on 
this list serve to use a wick to drain the low point on the deck thru one of 
the holes in the toe rail, where it also works very well.

 

Eric Frank, C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA

 


I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought wouldn?t 
connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very strong magnets 
at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of where I thought the 
lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to the Inside Magnet!

Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be taking a 
blind chance.
Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

 

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-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Not a problem, Chuck.  We’re all friends here (C smiles), but I figured you 
could use a little push-back.

I’ve been sailing for about 50 years, and I have a fairly good sense when 
equipment should be retired.  Nevertheless, as I said in a prior e-mail note, I 
plan to have the side straps looked at by someone knowledgeable about 
stainless.  I appreciate the cautionary advice.

Thanks for your follow-up note.

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 11:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

Hi Matt,

After re-reading my reply to your snatch block question, I apologize for the 
tone of my email.  It was uncalled for and over the top.  Having spent a fair 
bit of time on a professional level attending to service questions in a wide 
range of recreational sports,  I guess I tend to have a knee jerk reaction when 
I suspect that someone is compromising safety in the name of frugality.  
Clearly this was not the case regarding your simple question of sourcing a 
replacement part for your blocks.

Again, I apologize for the “lecture” and I’ll try to conduct future comments in 
a more professional and helpful manner.

Sincerely,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Pandanaram, MA

   


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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Hi Matt,

After re-reading my reply to your snatch block question, I apologize for the 
tone of my email.  It was uncalled for and over the top.  Having spent a fair 
bit of time on a professional level attending to service questions in a wide 
range of recreational sports,  I guess I tend to have a knee jerk reaction when 
I suspect that someone is compromising safety in the name of frugality.  
Clearly this was not the case regarding your simple question of sourcing a 
replacement part for your blocks.

Again, I apologize for the “lecture” and I’ll try to conduct future comments in 
a more professional and helpful manner.

Sincerely,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Pandanaram, MA

 


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Re: Stus-List Deck stepped mast

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thank you for the great explanation, Rob. Were you involved with the 30E
design, which sailboatdata.com reports is a derivative of the 33-1 (which
is itself a derivative of the 1974 3/4 ton)? I'm just curious as I can find
very little info on the 30E aside from this mention.

On Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 2:49 AM Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A deck stepped mast is a 'pin end' at the bottom in engineering terms vs.
> a thru-deck mast which has the double support of the mast step and mast
> collar.
> With so much less support the deck stepped variety requires a considerably
> stiffer mast section which will be a lot heavier.
> The structural support necessary under the deck has to be very substantial
> to support the rig load. It is possible on a 26 footer, but much harder on
> larger vessels.  On the larger boats the mast step carries that compression
> load and has to be very strong.
> Control of a thru-deck mast is much better with the double support as well.
> The size of the mast tube, by our calculations, seemed to skyrocket as
> boat size increased, so deck stepped seemed much too heavy . . . . .
> Rob Ball.   C 34
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Shifting cable

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Thanks John, My cable is inside the pedestal.

Fred

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fred
>
>
>
> Are your cables located inside the pedestal itself or inside the external
> support tubes?  Ours are in the external tubes and can offer some lessons
> learned when I replaced ours a few years back
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Fred
> Hazzard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2019 12:48 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard
> *Subject:* Stus-List Shifting cable
>
>
>
> I am replacing the cable. Is the cable fastened to the pedestal some near
> where the cable attaches to the shift lever?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> S/V Fury
>
> C 44
>
> Portland, Or
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

A friend does exactly this on his C 35 Mk.1 and has been doing it for
years.  Works well.

Ken H.

On Wed, 10 Apr 2019 at 08:24, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Even with a garboard drain hole it is impossible to keep the bilge in my
> 35 MKII completely dry unless I use a sponge to sop up water in the
> depressions between the athwartship glass belts that provide added strength
> where the keel bolts exit into the bilge. There are no limber holes to
> allow water to flow forward or aft past these strength members. Every fall
> i drill a 1/2 inch hole angled downward from the inside port side at the
> lowest spot between one pair of these strength members and every spring I
> clean the inside of that hole with sand paper followed by a wssh with an
> acetone soaked rag. After drying i put a small wood plug in to about 1/8
> inch depth from the outside and use a syringe filled with thickened epoxy
> from the inside to fill the hole from the bottom up to avoid entrapped air.
> When filled I put a small bandage of paper towel over the epoxy but because
> the drain hole is angled downward and the hole is about an inch long the
> epoxy stays put until cured. Once cured i remove the wood plug, fair with a
> dab a light car body filler and apply bottom paint. My prefered way to
> avoid installing a rather bulky regular garboard drain. Not a lot of work
> either and i trust the epoxy plug won’t leak. So far after about 12 years
> of doing it this way no complaints or problems.
>
> On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM Eric Frank via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2
>> with great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this
>> list serve but it works very well.  Moving the magnets around, I found the
>> lowest place in the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable
>> place where the keel is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside,
>> once the position was marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the
>> contour of the hull/keel joint, came out just where the internal magnet had
>> been located.  Drilled a pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the
>> right place in the bilge. An improvement this winter was to pull a piece of
>> absorbent cloth thru the hole and hanging down a few inches on the outside,
>> which acted like a wick. This kept the bilge completely dry all winter.
>> Based on an earlier suggestion on this list serve to use a wick to drain
>> the low point on the deck thru one of the holes in the toe rail, where it
>> also works very well.
>>
>> Eric Frank, C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA
>>
>>
>> I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought
>> wouldn?t connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very
>> strong magnets at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of
>> where I thought the lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to
>> the Inside Magnet!
>>
>> Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be
>> taking a blind chance.
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> C 39 Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

This reminds me of a method I used on a Soling I had several years ago, I 
started with a quarter inch hole in the low point and would fill with epoxy in 
the spring, but then I just got a large pan head SS machine screw and put a 
small and larger O ring under the head and a wing nut on the inside, worked 
great.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2019 7:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

 

Even with a garboard drain hole it is impossible to keep the bilge in my 35 
MKII completely dry unless I use a sponge to sop up water in the depressions 
between the athwartship glass belts that provide added strength where the keel 
bolts exit into the bilge. There are no limber holes to allow water to flow 
forward or aft past these strength members. Every fall i drill a 1/2 inch hole 
angled downward from the inside port side at the lowest spot between one pair 
of these strength members and every spring I clean the inside of that hole with 
sand paper followed by a wssh with an acetone soaked rag. After drying i put a 
small wood plug in to about 1/8 inch depth from the outside and use a syringe 
filled with thickened epoxy from the inside to fill the hole from the bottom up 
to avoid entrapped air. When filled I put a small bandage of paper towel over 
the epoxy but because the drain hole is angled downward and the hole is about 
an inch long the epoxy stays put until cured. Once cured i remove the wood 
plug, fair with a dab a light car body filler and apply bottom paint. My 
prefered way to avoid installing a rather bulky regular garboard drain. Not a 
lot of work either and i trust the epoxy plug won’t leak. So far after about 12 
years of doing it this way no complaints or problems. 

 

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM Eric Frank via CnC-List  
wrote:

I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2 with 
great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this list serve 
but it works very well.  Moving the magnets around, I found the lowest place in 
the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable place where the keel 
is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside, once the position was 
marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the contour of the hull/keel 
joint, came out just where the internal magnet had been located.  Drilled a 
pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the right place in the bilge. An 
improvement this winter was to pull a piece of absorbent cloth thru the hole 
and hanging down a few inches on the outside, which acted like a wick. This 
kept the bilge completely dry all winter. Based on an earlier suggestion on 
this list serve to use a wick to drain the low point on the deck thru one of 
the holes in the toe rail, where it also works very well.

 

Eric Frank, C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA

 


I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought wouldn?t 
connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very strong magnets 
at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of where I thought the 
lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to the Inside Magnet!

Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be taking a 
blind chance.
Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

 

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-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Even with a garboard drain hole it is impossible to keep the bilge in my 35
MKII completely dry unless I use a sponge to sop up water in the
depressions between the athwartship glass belts that provide added strength
where the keel bolts exit into the bilge. There are no limber holes to
allow water to flow forward or aft past these strength members. Every fall
i drill a 1/2 inch hole angled downward from the inside port side at the
lowest spot between one pair of these strength members and every spring I
clean the inside of that hole with sand paper followed by a wssh with an
acetone soaked rag. After drying i put a small wood plug in to about 1/8
inch depth from the outside and use a syringe filled with thickened epoxy
from the inside to fill the hole from the bottom up to avoid entrapped air.
When filled I put a small bandage of paper towel over the epoxy but because
the drain hole is angled downward and the hole is about an inch long the
epoxy stays put until cured. Once cured i remove the wood plug, fair with a
dab a light car body filler and apply bottom paint. My prefered way to
avoid installing a rather bulky regular garboard drain. Not a lot of work
either and i trust the epoxy plug won’t leak. So far after about 12 years
of doing it this way no complaints or problems.

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019 at 4:09 AM Eric Frank via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2
> with great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this
> list serve but it works very well.  Moving the magnets around, I found the
> lowest place in the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable
> place where the keel is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside,
> once the position was marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the
> contour of the hull/keel joint, came out just where the internal magnet had
> been located.  Drilled a pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the
> right place in the bilge. An improvement this winter was to pull a piece of
> absorbent cloth thru the hole and hanging down a few inches on the outside,
> which acted like a wick. This kept the bilge completely dry all winter.
> Based on an earlier suggestion on this list serve to use a wick to drain
> the low point on the deck thru one of the holes in the toe rail, where it
> also works very well.
>
> Eric Frank, C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
> I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought
> wouldn?t connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very
> strong magnets at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of
> where I thought the lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to
> the Inside Magnet!
>
> Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be
> taking a blind chance.
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Shifting cable

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Fred

 

Are your cables located inside the pedestal itself or inside the external 
support tubes?  Ours are in the external tubes and can offer some lessons 
learned when I replaced ours a few years back

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2019 12:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List Shifting cable

 

I am replacing the cable. Is the cable fastened to the pedestal some near where 
the cable attaches to the shift lever?

 

Thanks

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury 

C 44

Portland, Or

 

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Garboard plug 37/40

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

I used this Magnets technique to install a garboard drain on my 35 Mk2 with 
great success 3 years ago. Can’t remember who suggested it on this list serve 
but it works very well.  Moving the magnets around, I found the lowest place in 
the bilge that still had the hole coming out in a suitable place where the keel 
is attached to the hull. Drilling from the outside, once the position was 
marked, was easy and the angle, perpendicular to the contour of the hull/keel 
joint, came out just where the internal magnet had been located.  Drilled a 
pilot hole first to make sure it came out at the right place in the bilge. An 
improvement this winter was to pull a piece of absorbent cloth thru the hole 
and hanging down a few inches on the outside, which acted like a wick. This 
kept the bilge completely dry all winter. Based on an earlier suggestion on 
this list serve to use a wick to drain the low point on the deck thru one of 
the holes in the toe rail, where it also works very well.

Eric Frank, C 35 Mk II, Mattapoisett, MA

> 
> I believe someone here suggested Magnets, which at the time I thought 
> wouldn?t connect through that thickness, but I tried with a pair of very 
> strong magnets at the point that I wanted, but didn?t think I could B/C of 
> where I thought the lead would be, and voila, the outside magnet stuck to the 
> Inside Magnet!
> 
> Which means, of course, that you can drill from the outside and not be taking 
> a blind chance.
> Bill Coleman
> 
> C 39 Erie, PA


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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray