date:20190423

Hi Eric,
Thanks for sharing your experience. After spending so long finding this
boat, it is hard to let it go, not knowing when another might come along. I
found the 30 a bit cramped, and that was before we looked at the 35, so I
suspect it would be hard to go back. I am retired, so have the time to work
on things, but I don't really enjoy working on engines like I used to.
Maybe I could over the winter though.
Time to spend a day in the garden and digest things a bit.

Thanks.

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 9:10 PM sender via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Shawn:
> 2 years ago, I also bought a 35MkII and subsequently let it go after an
> unfavorable survey.   It was a very difficult decision to make.  I really
> liked the design and solid build of the 35.  In the sea trial it sailed
> beautifully, exactly the way I think a boat should sail.  The interior has
> a good layout.
>
> Sounds like you've got a fair idea of some of the issues, and also the
> itch to get out on the water.
>
> In the end for me, I knew it would completely tap out my budget, and I
> would have a hard time finding the necessary time to commit to buying a
> project boat.  If I had deeper pockets and was semi retired or retired and
> able to commit the money and enormous amount of time, I would have kept
> it.  People who've successfully restored boats (houses,cars etc)  are
> rewarded by a sense of accomplishment that's hard to compare.  So my advice
> would be to take those factors into consideration.
>
> By the time we let the 35 mkII go the few other possible boats were gone
> and that was certainly a bummer.  We looked at that same boat the second
> the put it up for sale.  We wound up having to wait until the next spring
> before a very clean, well maintained C 32 came up that we grabbed.  I'm
> very happy with that decision.  Ironically there's another same year and
> color 32 currently on Craigslist.
>
> If you do look at it, the Yanmar 2GM engine should have the exhaust mixing
> elbow removed and the head inspected for internal deterioration from a
> cracked elbow leaking salt water back towards the head.  It's an issue
> known for killing that otherwise great engine.
>
> Eric
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:31 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Oh yeah, a few more things. I sounded the decks, and although there is
>> some creaking when walking between the mast and hatch area, sounding gives
>> a consistent sound. The only place that was different was around the
>> chainplates, but it was almost completely just inboard and outboard of
>> them, which is directly above the chainplate bulkhead, so I think that may
>> be the sound difference I heard, as they were all the same. No leaks
>> showing when I was on the boat all day in the rain.
>>
>> The port bulked shows moisture around the top edge (not bottom edge) like
>> it leaked at one point but not sure where from, and the bulkheads on both
>> sides of the head on port side are a bit loose at the cabin top. Tabbing is
>> good, and was re-done by previous owner. Is it normal for bulkheads to be
>> loose at the top? I can imagine they might move around a lot in rough
>> weather like this, which doesn't seem good.
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:23 PM Shawn Wright 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> We're getting down to the final days before closing on the C 35-2, and
>>> I'm getting a bit discouraged by the number of things needing work, and the
>>> way in which the previous owner did a lot of things:
>>>
>>> -the electrical is a mess, with the original fuse panel having quite a
>>> few additional switches, and while the original wire runs have been
>>> replaced, seeing the quality of work make me want to just rip it all out
>>> and start again. Most of it works, and the junctions are
>>> soldered/heatshrunk, but it appears that left over wire was used in many
>>> places.
>>>
>>> -the engine is *very* complex, and scary to try to comprehend, with
>>> hoses criss-crossing between the engine and both cockput locker areas for a
>>> watermaker, two heat exchangers, hot water tank, etc. Lots of valves and
>>> very little consistency in hose or valve type/diameter, and mix of plastic,
>>> steel and bronze fittings.
>>>
>>> -the engine itself is a VW 1.6 diesel, which I am intimately familiar
>>> with, having worked on many, but it's all the custom marine add-ons that
>>> worry me. It runs well, but I know that this probably the primary reason
>>> the boat has not sold for a year. Imagine a typical marine engine, then
>>> multiply the hoses and valves by 4-5x.
>>>
>>> -windows are original and completely opaque, although they amazingly
>>> don't seem to leak
>>>
>>> -it has space for 3 pairs of 6V golf cart batteries, but only 4
>>> installed. I found the cables for the other 2 batteries lying loose, not
>>> taped, and was shocked (pun intended) to find they were live! I taped them
>>> off quickly. Stuff like this on a boat just makes me wonder what else I
>>> will find, although I've

Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concerns

2019-04-23 Thread sender via CnC-List

Shawn:
2 years ago, I also bought a 35MkII and subsequently let it go after an
unfavorable survey.   It was a very difficult decision to make.  I really
liked the design and solid build of the 35.  In the sea trial it sailed
beautifully, exactly the way I think a boat should sail.  The interior has
a good layout.

Sounds like you've got a fair idea of some of the issues, and also the itch
to get out on the water.

In the end for me, I knew it would completely tap out my budget, and I
would have a hard time finding the necessary time to commit to buying a
project boat.  If I had deeper pockets and was semi retired or retired and
able to commit the money and enormous amount of time, I would have kept
it.  People who've successfully restored boats (houses,cars etc)  are
rewarded by a sense of accomplishment that's hard to compare.  So my advice
would be to take those factors into consideration.

By the time we let the 35 mkII go the few other possible boats were gone
and that was certainly a bummer.  We looked at that same boat the second
the put it up for sale.  We wound up having to wait until the next spring
before a very clean, well maintained C 32 came up that we grabbed.  I'm
very happy with that decision.  Ironically there's another same year and
color 32 currently on Craigslist.

If you do look at it, the Yanmar 2GM engine should have the exhaust mixing
elbow removed and the head inspected for internal deterioration from a
cracked elbow leaking salt water back towards the head.  It's an issue
known for killing that otherwise great engine.

Eric

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:31 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Oh yeah, a few more things. I sounded the decks, and although there is
> some creaking when walking between the mast and hatch area, sounding gives
> a consistent sound. The only place that was different was around the
> chainplates, but it was almost completely just inboard and outboard of
> them, which is directly above the chainplate bulkhead, so I think that may
> be the sound difference I heard, as they were all the same. No leaks
> showing when I was on the boat all day in the rain.
>
> The port bulked shows moisture around the top edge (not bottom edge) like
> it leaked at one point but not sure where from, and the bulkheads on both
> sides of the head on port side are a bit loose at the cabin top. Tabbing is
> good, and was re-done by previous owner. Is it normal for bulkheads to be
> loose at the top? I can imagine they might move around a lot in rough
> weather like this, which doesn't seem good.
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:23 PM Shawn Wright 
> wrote:
>
>> We're getting down to the final days before closing on the C 35-2, and
>> I'm getting a bit discouraged by the number of things needing work, and the
>> way in which the previous owner did a lot of things:
>>
>> -the electrical is a mess, with the original fuse panel having quite a
>> few additional switches, and while the original wire runs have been
>> replaced, seeing the quality of work make me want to just rip it all out
>> and start again. Most of it works, and the junctions are
>> soldered/heatshrunk, but it appears that left over wire was used in many
>> places.
>>
>> -the engine is *very* complex, and scary to try to comprehend, with hoses
>> criss-crossing between the engine and both cockput locker areas for a
>> watermaker, two heat exchangers, hot water tank, etc. Lots of valves and
>> very little consistency in hose or valve type/diameter, and mix of plastic,
>> steel and bronze fittings.
>>
>> -the engine itself is a VW 1.6 diesel, which I am intimately familiar
>> with, having worked on many, but it's all the custom marine add-ons that
>> worry me. It runs well, but I know that this probably the primary reason
>> the boat has not sold for a year. Imagine a typical marine engine, then
>> multiply the hoses and valves by 4-5x.
>>
>> -windows are original and completely opaque, although they amazingly
>> don't seem to leak
>>
>> -it has space for 3 pairs of 6V golf cart batteries, but only 4
>> installed. I found the cables for the other 2 batteries lying loose, not
>> taped, and was shocked (pun intended) to find they were live! I taped them
>> off quickly. Stuff like this on a boat just makes me wonder what else I
>> will find, although I've scoured the boat pretty heavily, so have probably
>> found the worst of it.
>>
>> On the positive side, we took it out in the harbour today in winds of
>> 20kn with gusts to 35 and the engine easily powered her to 5kn into the
>> wind and 6.5kn downwind. Getting her out and back into the dock was a
>> challenge though. I would have preferred to stay out and try sailing to see
>> how she handled, but the owner was not keen on it.
>>
>> The problem is this: I have spent a year trying to find a boat, and now
>> just want to go sailing. There is a nice looking C 30 for about the same
>> price right next to it, and another across town that I looked at

Re: Stus-List Build date


From a previous post from Rick Brass:



First three (alpha) characters are the manufacturer code
Next two are the model
Next three are the hull number
Next one is the letter for the month when production was started if your 
format is the model year version (a=January)

Next one is the year production started
Last two are the model year



-Original Message- 
From: Allan Hester via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 10:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Allan Hester
Subject: Stus-List Build date



Listers,

I own a 1989 C 35 Mk3, hull number 264. The registration says 1989 and the 
HIN on the stern reads  Z C C 3 5 2 6 4 J 7 8 9.


However, online reviews and sailboatdata all indicate the 35 was only built 
until 1987.


Is anyone able to clear up this discrepancy?

Is anyone able to interpret the meaning of the entire HIN?  I think 3 5 2 6 
4 are pretty clear. These numbers indicate 35 feet in  length and hull 
number, 264.


Thank you.

AL H.

C 35 Mk3
Hull 264
Pacific Ranger
Vancouver, BC.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 35-2 concerns

Oh yeah, a few more things. I sounded the decks, and although there is some
creaking when walking between the mast and hatch area, sounding gives a
consistent sound. The only place that was different was around the
chainplates, but it was almost completely just inboard and outboard of
them, which is directly above the chainplate bulkhead, so I think that may
be the sound difference I heard, as they were all the same. No leaks
showing when I was on the boat all day in the rain.

The port bulked shows moisture around the top edge (not bottom edge) like
it leaked at one point but not sure where from, and the bulkheads on both
sides of the head on port side are a bit loose at the cabin top. Tabbing is
good, and was re-done by previous owner. Is it normal for bulkheads to be
loose at the top? I can imagine they might move around a lot in rough
weather like this, which doesn't seem good.


On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 7:23 PM Shawn Wright  wrote:

> We're getting down to the final days before closing on the C 35-2, and
> I'm getting a bit discouraged by the number of things needing work, and the
> way in which the previous owner did a lot of things:
>
> -the electrical is a mess, with the original fuse panel having quite a few
> additional switches, and while the original wire runs have been replaced,
> seeing the quality of work make me want to just rip it all out and start
> again. Most of it works, and the junctions are soldered/heatshrunk, but it
> appears that left over wire was used in many places.
>
> -the engine is *very* complex, and scary to try to comprehend, with hoses
> criss-crossing between the engine and both cockput locker areas for a
> watermaker, two heat exchangers, hot water tank, etc. Lots of valves and
> very little consistency in hose or valve type/diameter, and mix of plastic,
> steel and bronze fittings.
>
> -the engine itself is a VW 1.6 diesel, which I am intimately familiar
> with, having worked on many, but it's all the custom marine add-ons that
> worry me. It runs well, but I know that this probably the primary reason
> the boat has not sold for a year. Imagine a typical marine engine, then
> multiply the hoses and valves by 4-5x.
>
> -windows are original and completely opaque, although they amazingly don't
> seem to leak
>
> -it has space for 3 pairs of 6V golf cart batteries, but only 4 installed.
> I found the cables for the other 2 batteries lying loose, not taped, and
> was shocked (pun intended) to find they were live! I taped them off
> quickly. Stuff like this on a boat just makes me wonder what else I will
> find, although I've scoured the boat pretty heavily, so have probably found
> the worst of it.
>
> On the positive side, we took it out in the harbour today in winds of 20kn
> with gusts to 35 and the engine easily powered her to 5kn into the wind and
> 6.5kn downwind. Getting her out and back into the dock was a challenge
> though. I would have preferred to stay out and try sailing to see how she
> handled, but the owner was not keen on it.
>
> The problem is this: I have spent a year trying to find a boat, and now
> just want to go sailing. There is a nice looking C 30 for about the same
> price right next to it, and another across town that I looked at before, in
> excellent shape. Or there is an Ericson 29 that is spartan but meticulous
> kept for half the price. I know the Ericson is much slower (rates around
> 195) but they sail quite well I'm told. I'm just having a hard time coming
> to terms with spending $22K for a boat that needs so much work, even a
> 35-2. Someone who is less particular than me might not see a problem, but I
> suspect many others have, or the boat would have sold already. The owner
> already told me that even if I find problems he will not go below $21500,
> since he has two other buyers waiting, so I have to decide if this boat is
> worth it given the amount of work it will need in the future. I suspect
> when it comes time to sell, I will not be able to do so unless I drop a
> more common engine in.
>
> Buying a boat should not be this difficult!
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>


-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C 35-2 concerns

We're getting down to the final days before closing on the C 35-2, and
I'm getting a bit discouraged by the number of things needing work, and the
way in which the previous owner did a lot of things:

-the electrical is a mess, with the original fuse panel having quite a few
additional switches, and while the original wire runs have been replaced,
seeing the quality of work make me want to just rip it all out and start
again. Most of it works, and the junctions are soldered/heatshrunk, but it
appears that left over wire was used in many places.

-the engine is *very* complex, and scary to try to comprehend, with hoses
criss-crossing between the engine and both cockput locker areas for a
watermaker, two heat exchangers, hot water tank, etc. Lots of valves and
very little consistency in hose or valve type/diameter, and mix of plastic,
steel and bronze fittings.

-the engine itself is a VW 1.6 diesel, which I am intimately familiar with,
having worked on many, but it's all the custom marine add-ons that worry
me. It runs well, but I know that this probably the primary reason the boat
has not sold for a year. Imagine a typical marine engine, then multiply the
hoses and valves by 4-5x.

-windows are original and completely opaque, although they amazingly don't
seem to leak

-it has space for 3 pairs of 6V golf cart batteries, but only 4 installed.
I found the cables for the other 2 batteries lying loose, not taped, and
was shocked (pun intended) to find they were live! I taped them off
quickly. Stuff like this on a boat just makes me wonder what else I will
find, although I've scoured the boat pretty heavily, so have probably found
the worst of it.

On the positive side, we took it out in the harbour today in winds of 20kn
with gusts to 35 and the engine easily powered her to 5kn into the wind and
6.5kn downwind. Getting her out and back into the dock was a challenge
though. I would have preferred to stay out and try sailing to see how she
handled, but the owner was not keen on it.

The problem is this: I have spent a year trying to find a boat, and now
just want to go sailing. There is a nice looking C 30 for about the same
price right next to it, and another across town that I looked at before, in
excellent shape. Or there is an Ericson 29 that is spartan but meticulous
kept for half the price. I know the Ericson is much slower (rates around
195) but they sail quite well I'm told. I'm just having a hard time coming
to terms with spending $22K for a boat that needs so much work, even a
35-2. Someone who is less particular than me might not see a problem, but I
suspect many others have, or the boat would have sold already. The owner
already told me that even if I find problems he will not go below $21500,
since he has two other buyers waiting, so I have to decide if this boat is
worth it given the amount of work it will need in the future. I suspect
when it comes time to sell, I will not be able to do so unless I drop a
more common engine in.

Buying a boat should not be this difficult!

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Build date

2019-04-23 Thread Allan Hester via CnC-List




Listers,

I own a 1989 C 35 Mk3, hull number 264. The registration says 1989 and the 
HIN on the stern reads  Z C C 3 5 2 6 4 J 7 8 9.

However, online reviews and sailboatdata all indicate the 35 was only built 
until 1987.

Is anyone able to clear up this discrepancy?

Is anyone able to interpret the meaning of the entire HIN?  I think 3 5 2 6 4 
are pretty clear. These numbers indicate 35 feet in  length and hull number, 
264.

Thank you. 

AL H.

C 35 Mk3 
Hull 264
Pacific Ranger
Vancouver, BC.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Genoa sheets for Landfall 38

2019-04-23 Thread billbruce--- via CnC-List


 
  
   Hi I use 65 ft 1/2" genoa sheets which seem to work well. I tried 5/8 one year but found them to heavy and went back to 1/2".
   
   Bill Bruce
   Landfall 38 
  
 


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Winch Overhaul

2019-04-23 Thread Wade Glew via CnC-List

a 1 gallon plastic ice cream bucket also works very well for winch
overhaul.   Cut a smaller hole then an X in the bottom and push it over the
winch before you start.  Another ice cream bucket is perfect for solvent to
clean the winch bearings, pauls etc so they can't get away in the process.
Placing the lid over the top is good if you have to interrupt for rain or a
beer or more ice cream.

Wade
Oh Boy, C 33 Mk II

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 8:35 PM Marc Boyd via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That's a great idea to use a shoebox.
>
> Does anyone know what size of pawls a Lewmar 42 winch Takes? I believe
> there are small and large available and can't seem to find which of these
> are for the 42 model.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Marc.
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 10:31 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Others already chimed in on how to do it. One advice – take a old
>> shoebox, cut a round opening in the bottom and put the box over the winch
>> when you disassemble. The small parts have propensity to swim. The box can
>> save you a few days (waiting for delivery of replacement parts).
>>
>> Marek
>>
>> *From:* Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 23, 2019 06:20
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Raymond Macklin
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Winch Overhaul
>>
>> 1985 C 33-2 and I am looking to do maintenance on two Barient 23 Winch,
>> Number 3985340.  I have never taken apart one.  I am reaching out for
>> advise and guidance, instructions, part replacements , grease brand and any
>> other help in completing this project would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ray
>> LakeHouse
>> Milwaukee, WI .
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> marc.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Winch Overhaul

2019-04-23 Thread Marc Boyd via CnC-List

That's a great idea to use a shoebox.

Does anyone know what size of pawls a Lewmar 42 winch Takes? I believe
there are small and large available and can't seem to find which of these
are for the 42 model.

Cheers,

Marc.

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 10:31 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Others already chimed in on how to do it. One advice – take a old shoebox,
> cut a round opening in the bottom and put the box over the winch when you
> disassemble. The small parts have propensity to swim. The box can save you
> a few days (waiting for delivery of replacement parts).
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 23, 2019 06:20
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Raymond Macklin
> *Subject:* Stus-List Winch Overhaul
>
> 1985 C 33-2 and I am looking to do maintenance on two Barient 23 Winch,
> Number 3985340.  I have never taken apart one.  I am reaching out for
> advise and guidance, instructions, part replacements , grease brand and any
> other help in completing this project would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee, WI .
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
marc.
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

Joe, I agree but I think that's close to what the early 35-1's were at
maximum rudder.  Have you measured the travel on Coquina?  Just eyeball the
end of the rudder shaft.  You might be surprised.

I got Touche's steering system back together today.

Right now, with the new limit plates, Touche' has a bit over 45 degrees off
midships.  About 90-100 degrees total travel.  There's 4-5 more links on
left on each side of the chain.  Before my modification, the system went
all the way to the LAST link of the chain where it hit the stop bolts in
the chain.  It may well have traveled 130 degrees.

Now the wheel is two turns lock to lock.  Before it was nearly three turns
lock to lock.

This has been a really interesting project in a lot of ways.  Again, it
will all be in the documentation that I hope to finalize and provide to the
list in the next week or so.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville LA

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 6:58 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> 65 degrees would be a TON of drag!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 23, 2019 7:35 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel
>
>
>
> Don,
>
>
>
> Just to clarify, are you saying 65 each side for 130 degrees total travel?
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 9:09 AM Don Kern via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> FWIW - I just went out to my side yard and checked were Fireballs stops
> are set.  Interestingly they are set at 65 deg., a lot more than I expected
> since her rudder is two inches longer in girth than a standard C 35 Mk2.
>
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C MK2
> Bristol, RI
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

2019-04-23 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

65 degrees would be a TON of drag!
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 7:35 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

Don,

Just to clarify, are you saying 65 each side for 130 degrees total travel?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 9:09 AM Don Kern via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

FWIW - I just went out to my side yard and checked were Fireballs stops are 
set.  Interestingly they are set at 65 deg., a lot more than I expected since 
her rudder is two inches longer in girth than a standard C 35 Mk2.
Don Kern
Fireball, C MK2
Bristol, RI

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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

Don,

Just to clarify, are you saying 65 each side for 130 degrees total travel?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 9:09 AM Don Kern via CnC-List 
wrote:

> FWIW - I just went out to my side yard and checked were Fireballs stops
> are set.  Interestingly they are set at 65 deg., a lot more than I expected
> since her rudder is two inches longer in girth than a standard C 35 Mk2.
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C MK2
> Bristol, RI
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

I don't share the list's disdain of flex tanks.  Touche' has flex tanks for
both potable water and waste water.  No issues at all.

In fact, the potable water tank is easy to clean each spring.  Just empty
it, yank it out, put it on the dock, put some water in it and slosh it
around.  Rinse and reinstall.

There have been numerous threads on rigid tank failures.  Just saying.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Yes, your responses have confirmed what I already believed.  Thanks to all who 
responded.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 4:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Well, I am sure you have heard enough to decide, I am guessing you are 
replacing a plastic tank. They do hold up well as a rule.

Maybe a more streamlined tank would be worth the expense, if you already have 
the other out, it is no trouble.

Just to let you know where I stand, I recall a trip back from Canada on a 
different C 39 that had a bladder.

I was pumping the head, and all of a sudden, the bladder exploded out the sink, 
over the ceiling and all over me.

Needless to say, I was unamused, and probably that one moment sealed my opinion 
of bladders for life.

Obviously it was plumbed incorrectly, I would like to find that plumber and 
whoop him. . . . 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 11:21 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Listers:

New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated to a 
holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to the 
area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.  Ordinarily I 
would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  However, some 
people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you?

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom 

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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

2019-04-23 Thread Bill Coleman via CnC-List

Well, I am sure you have heard enough to decide, I am guessing you are 
replacing a plastic tank. They do hold up well as a rule.

Maybe a more streamlined tank would be worth the expense, if you already have 
the other out, it is no trouble.

 

Just to let you know where I stand, I recall a trip back from Canada on a 
different C 39 that had a bladder.

I was pumping the head, and all of a sudden, the bladder exploded out the sink, 
over the ceiling and all over me.

Needless to say, I was unamused, and probably that one moment sealed my opinion 
of bladders for life.

Obviously it was plumbed incorrectly, I would like to find that plumber and 
whoop him. . . . 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 11:21 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

 

Listers:

 

New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated to a 
holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to the 
area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.  Ordinarily I 
would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  However, some 
people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you?

 

Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Presuming we are talking Low Density LDPE plastic (usually a semi-translucent 
white/yellowish material), I don't think those tanks have a useful life per se. 
 I had  cracked freshwater LDPE tank, and was able to weld it when it cracked.  
Welding plastic is pretty easy.  As to one of the fittings allowing odor to get 
out, I would address that through a new fitting or re-setting the fitting with 
plumbing tape, etc.  Personally, I would not replace it with a flexible tank.
Just my $.02 worth...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 


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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

2019-04-23 Thread svrebeccaleah via CnC-List

I also had a flexible holding tank that failed. Go with a hard plastic one. 
Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/23/19  08:37  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank My parents have/had a flexible 
tank in their powerboat, which failed, making for an unpleasant job to replace. 
Not sure if it was more unpleasant that a rigid tank would have been, but I 
suspect so. Based on that, I'd opt for a rigid (plastic) tank I think. The 35-2 
we are buying has a newer plastic tank under port side of vberth, 16 US gallon 
capacity. On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 8:22 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Listers:
 
    New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  
For reasons unrelated to a holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding 
tank to gain access to the area underneath.  While it is out, I am 
considering replacing it.  Ordinarily I would order a comparable plastic 
tank and be done with it.  However, some people swear by flexible tanks for 
this purpose.  What say you?
 
Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom 



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supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is 
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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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-- Shawn wrightshawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Three reasons: 1) it’s almost a decade old, and although I don’t know its 
useful life, I have no interest in finding out; 2) it was a pre-fab unit with 
all the fittings on top, which uses up some valuable space at the expense of 
volume; and 3) one of the fittings is allowing some odor to get out.  I can 
live with it for now, but having it out provides an additional reason to 
replace. 

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 12:13 PM
To: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Just out of curiosity, why are you thinking of replacing it?  

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019, 11:22:11 AM EDT, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote: 

Listers:

New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated to a 
holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to the 
area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.  Ordinarily I 
would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  However, some 
people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you?

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom 

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Re: Stus-List Winch Overhaul

2019-04-23 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List

Others already chimed in on how to do it. One advice – take a old shoebox, cut 
a round opening in the bottom and put the box over the winch when you 
disassemble. The small parts have propensity to swim. The box can save you a 
few days (waiting for delivery of replacement parts).

Marek

From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 06:20
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Raymond Macklin
Subject: Stus-List Winch Overhaul

1985 C 33-2 and I am looking to do maintenance on two Barient 23 Winch, 
Number 3985340.  I have never taken apart one.  I am reaching out for advise 
and guidance, instructions, part replacements , grease brand and any other help 
in completing this project would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI .
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

2019-04-23 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Noo don’t do it!

I did a job once removing one and adding a Lecrta-San. Sewage plus oxygen gets 
slowly digested into benign fertilizer by aerobic bacteria. Sewage without 
oxygen gets digested by anaerobic bacteria that STINK. Sooner or later the 
bladder will leak, or in my case one of my workers fell on it and the hoses 
popped off. The stink is indescribable and probably useful as a bioweapon.
I am getting a composting head for my boat when funds permit.
Joe
Coquina


On Tuesday, April 23, 2019, 11:22:11 AM EDT, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers:

New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated to a 
holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to the 
area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.  Ordinarily I 
would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  However, some 
people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you?

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom

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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Just out of curiosity, why are you thinking of replacing it?  

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

On Tuesday, April 23, 2019, 11:22:11 AM EDT, Matthew L. Wolford via 
CnC-List  wrote:  
 
 Listers: New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons 
unrelated to a holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain 
access to the area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it. 
 Ordinarily I would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  
However, some people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you? 
Matt WolfordC 42 Custom 

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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

2019-04-23 Thread Dave. via CnC-List

I have purchased a composting toilet and will be installing it this spring.
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:49 AM, T Sutton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If or when I have to replace my head or the holding tank I think I’ll be 
> installing a composting head and be done with it.
>  
> Tom S
>  
> From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 11:21 AM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
> Subject: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank
>  
> Listers:
>  
> New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated to 
> a holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to 
> the area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.  
> Ordinarily I would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  
> However, some people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you?
>  
> Matt Wolford
> C 42 Custom
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is  greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

2019-04-23 Thread T Sutton via CnC-List

If or when I have to replace my head or the holding tank I think I’ll be 
installing a composting head and be done with it.

Tom S

From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 11:21 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Listers:

New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated to a 
holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to the 
area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.  Ordinarily I 
would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  However, some 
people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you?

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom 

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Re: Stus-List Genoa sheets for Landfall 38

2019-04-23 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

Shawn,

While some sailors prefer to “luggage tag” a single sheet to the clew of their 
jib thus saving the excess bulk of a pair of bowlines that may hang up on a 
baby stay or other deck mounted obstructions, I’ve gone back to using two 
separate jib sheets on the 135% jib of our Landfall 35.  To secure the sheets 
to the sail, I’ve spliced a small eye on the end of the sheet and use a ¼”x3” 
spectra soft shackle at the clew attachment point.  This way I avoid the bulk 
of a large heavy knot that might whack somebody on the foredeck or hang up 
while tacking, but it makes it easy to remove a sheet that could be accidently 
overwrapped on the winch, something you can’t do when using a single sheet with 
a loop at the clew.

 

I’m encouraged by your desire to downsize your jib sheets.  Many sailors 
purchasing new sheets buy enormously oversized line because they feel it 
provides better “hand” and makes the rope easier to grip under load.  I could 
see that mindset if you were sailing an Etchells or some other mid size racer 
that doesn’t have winches, but how often does a C owner trim their jib using 
arm strength alone, requiring a significant grip on the line?  Most folks will 
simply wind the line onto the winch and pull (or grind) using the mechanical 
advantage of the winches.  Big heavy sheets can weigh down the clew and foot of 
the jib in light air conditions and are harder to get sufficient wraps around 
the winch if you really need to keep the rope from slipping in a hard blow.  
Just last week I had a friend ask me to source some ¾” line for genoa sheets on 
a 44’ Sloop (not a C).  That seems rather excessive in my mind and the size 
of the line certainly isn’t necessary from a load standpoint.  But in his mind, 
bigger was better and was willing to spend a whole lot of money to get a sheet 
that looked and felt massive.  I don’t even think the J-Class boats use jib 
sheets that big…

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2019 7:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Genoa sheets for Landfall 38

 

Regarding genoa/jib sheets: is it acceptable to use one double length sheet, 
marked in the middle, then looped through the clew? I will need to replace the 
sheets on our new 35 as they are too large, and the knots are also bulky as 
result. It seemed to me that a single sheet looped through would solve this. 
Are there any downsides to doing this?

 

On Mon, Apr 22, 2019 at 3:16 PM Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

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Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

My parents have/had a flexible tank in their powerboat, which failed,
making for an unpleasant job to replace. Not sure if it was more unpleasant
that a rigid tank would have been, but I suspect so. Based on that, I'd opt
for a rigid (plastic) tank I think. The 35-2 we are buying has a newer
plastic tank under port side of vberth, 16 US gallon capacity.

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 8:22 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers:
>
> New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated
> to a holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access
> to the area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.
> Ordinarily I would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.
> However, some people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say
> you?
>
> Matt Wolford
> C 42 Custom
>
> --
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Stus-List Rudder rebuild

2019-04-23 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List

As I mentioned the other day, a friend rebuilt his Jeanneau rudder. I now
have a bunch of pictures of the process in case anyone wants a blow-by-blow.
I must say, as I didn't see it after he took it home for the task, just how
rotten it was. I don't know that any of the C rudders are made up of
layered plywood fastened to a backbone, but this example was mush...

Email me if you are interested, I don't want the burden the list with the
horror show.

gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
Gary


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Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank

Listers:

New question for the group’s collective wisdom.  For reasons unrelated to a 
holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to the 
area underneath.  While it is out, I am considering replacing it.  Ordinarily I 
would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it.  However, some 
people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose.  What say you?

Matt Wolford
C 42 Custom 



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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

2019-04-23 Thread Don Kern via CnC-List

FWIW - I just went out to my side yard and checked were Fireballs stops
are set. Interestingly they are set at 65 deg., a lot more than I
expected since her rudder is two inches longer in girth than a standard
C 35 Mk2.

Don Kern
Fireball, C MK2
Bristol, RI

On 4/23/2019 9:12 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:

Dennis,
To echo Rob’s concerns regarding the creation of a robust rudder stop,
if the previous iteration utilized two bolts inserted in the steering
chain, I would take a thorough inspection of the pedestal sprocket.
Steel bolts coming into contact with bronze sprocket teeth under load
or at high speed won’t be kind to the teeth. Sprocket and chain
replacement might be advised (unless if your pedestal is made by Morch
or Cinkel in which case you’re out of luck finding a new sprocket).
Adding some heavy rubber bumpers or cushioning shock absorbers on your
new rudder stop plate might allow it to last longer and be kinder to
the new bulkhead as well. A cut up piece of old exhaust hose might do
the trick.

Cheers and best of luck,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:31 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

That’s one of the great features of these designs.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

And that 36 degrees, in both of my C (a 27 MKII and my current
37/40+) have been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length
going down a fairway between docks.

More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)

Thanks Rob!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

Chuck,

You guys are dead on.  Your concerns have already been incorporated into
the project.

Your advice on the Morch pedestal several months ago stopped me from
pulling the shaft and sprocket.  Yes, some of the teeth are damaged but
there are enough undamaged teeth for proper operation.

The bulkhead I've installed is probably more substantial than that
installed on the later hulls of the 35-1 production run.  As a recovering
engineer, I tend to overbuild things.

I have 1/4 inch rubber pads behind each strike plate on the bulkhead to
cushion the impact.

All of these concerns and their solutions will be in the detailed project
documentation which I will post once I complete the project.  I hope to
complete the project this week.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 8:13 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
> To echo Rob’s concerns regarding the creation of a robust rudder stop, if
> the previous iteration utilized two bolts inserted in the steering chain, I
> would take a thorough inspection of the pedestal sprocket.  Steel bolts
> coming into contact with bronze sprocket teeth under load or at high speed
> won’t be kind to the teeth.  Sprocket and chain replacement might be
> advised (unless if your pedestal is made by Morch or Cinkel in which case
> you’re out of luck finding a new sprocket).
> Adding some heavy rubber bumpers or cushioning shock absorbers on your new
> rudder stop plate might allow it to last longer and be kinder to the new
> bulkhead as well.  A cut up piece of old exhaust hose might do the trick.
> Cheers and best of luck,
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 LF
> Padanaram, MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:31 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That’s one of the great features of these designs.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> And that 36 degrees, in both of my C (a 27 MKII and my current 37/40+)
> have been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length going down a
> fairway between docks.
>
> More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)
>
> Thanks Rob!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

Thanks, Rob.

That's exactly the info I needed.  It also confirms what I'm seeing with
the reassembly.  The cables coming out of the groove at the end of travel.
I will include this info in my documentation.

This has been a trial and error process at this point.  I can move forward
now.  Sucks having a boat with no steering.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 7:08 AM Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Most all quadrants are built for a total travel 72 degrees, 36 degrees
> each way . . . (historical convention)
>
> If you turn the rudder farther than that, the cables start coming out of
> the groove that holds them on the quadrant.
>
> The largest loads that the whole steering system experiences happens when
> a boat is moving in reverse at speed, and the wheel or tiller is released.
> The ensuing snap of the rudder – hits the rudder stops, and that’s when
> something might break.
>
> Bottom line – check that your rudder stops are robust and up to the job  .
> . . .
>
> Rob Ball   C 34
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

2019-04-23 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List

Dennis,
To echo Rob’s concerns regarding the creation of a robust rudder stop, if the 
previous iteration utilized two bolts inserted in the steering chain, I would 
take a thorough inspection of the pedestal sprocket.  Steel bolts coming into 
contact with bronze sprocket teeth under load or at high speed won’t be kind to 
the teeth.  Sprocket and chain replacement might be advised (unless if your 
pedestal is made by Morch or Cinkel in which case you’re out of luck finding a 
new sprocket).
Adding some heavy rubber bumpers or cushioning shock absorbers on your new 
rudder stop plate might allow it to last longer and be kinder to the new 
bulkhead as well.  A cut up piece of old exhaust hose might do the trick.
Cheers and best of luck,
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic 
1983 35 LF
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:31 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> That’s one of the great features of these designs.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> And that 36 degrees, in both of my C (a 27 MKII and my current 37/40+) 
>> have been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length going down a 
>> fairway between docks.  
>> 
>> More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)
>> 
>> Thanks Rob!
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>> https://eur04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=02%7C01%7C%7C152a7bf5935a4a9968f408d6c7e6550b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636916189407732167sdata=i62m17jBnBXpBd5eb9rXlurTp9Pk6RrJREsJ4lif2Fg%3Dreserved=0
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Winch Overhaul

2019-04-23 Thread Chris Graham via CnC-List

I did my four this winter and it was a lot of elbow grease but a piece of cake 
in terms of the process. I replaced all the Pawl’s, etc nothing as 
gratifying as a smooth running winch :) 
As mentioned before. Tons of information out there and take pictures during the 
disassembly.. it’s helpful when you have to reassemble (the steps are typically 
very specific) 
Good luck 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Tuesday, April 23, 2019, 8:53 AM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Ray,
This is also on my project list. You can find instructions on the web pretty 
easily via Google. I believe this link has service instructions for your model 
including diagram and assembly/disassembly:  http://l-36.com/winches.php  
GeneHawkC 29-2 

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 05:19:25 -0500
From: Raymond Macklin 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Winch Overhaul  
Message-ID:
        
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

1985 C 33-2 and I am looking to do maintenance on two Barient 23 Winch,
Number 3985340.  I have never taken apart one.  I am reaching out for
advise and guidance, instructions, part replacements , grease brand and any
other help in completing this project would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee, WI .
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Stus-List Winch Overhaul

2019-04-23 Thread Eugene Fodor via CnC-List

Hi Ray,

This is also on my project list. You can find instructions on the web
pretty easily via Google. I believe this link has service instructions for
your model including diagram and assembly/disassembly:
http://l-36.com/winches.php

Gene
Hawk
C 29-2


>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019 05:19:25 -0500
> From: Raymond Macklin 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List  Winch Overhaul
> Message-ID:
>  pr64m2o1yxxi4wdbdukynjtx...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> 1985 C 33-2 and I am looking to do maintenance on two Barient 23 Winch,
> Number 3985340.  I have never taken apart one.  I am reaching out for
> advise and guidance, instructions, part replacements , grease brand and any
> other help in completing this project would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee, WI .
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20190423/26bb3630/attachment.html
> >
>
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>
> Subject: Digest Footer
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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

2019-04-23 Thread John Irvin via CnC-List

That’s one of the great features of these designs.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

And that 36 degrees, in both of my C (a 27 MKII and my current 37/40+) have 
been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length going down a fairway 
between docks.

More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)

Thanks Rob!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

And that 36 degrees, in both of my C (a 27 MKII and my current 37/40+) have 
been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length going down a fairway 
between docks.  

More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)
Thanks Rob!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

  
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Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

2019-04-23 Thread Rob Ball via CnC-List

Most all quadrants are built for a total travel 72 degrees, 36 degrees each way 
. . . (historical convention)
If you turn the rudder farther than that, the cables start coming out of the 
groove that holds them on the quadrant.
The largest loads that the whole steering system experiences happens when a 
boat is moving in reverse at speed, and the wheel or tiller is released.  The 
ensuing snap of the rudder – hits the rudder stops, and that’s when something 
might break.
Bottom line – check that your rudder stops are robust and up to the job  . . . .
Rob Ball   C 34
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Re: Stus-List Winch Overhaul