Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

When I did the dripless seal on my 27, I used a separate plate with drilled
holes, bolts and sockets to drive the shaft out of the coupling. I did not
use the flange on the engine. Tighten, kroil penetrating oil (protecting
the engine shaft seal from it) tap, rotate, repeat. Took 2 days! Along with
the new seal I replaced the cutlass bearing. Shaft and prop came out as one
and went off to a prop guy.
___

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Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

When I did this I tried everything I could to pull the coupling off. In the 
end, I ended up cutting the shaft off using an angle grinder with a cut off 
wheel and a multi tool in different positions and I had to cut it on a bit of a 
spiral. It wasn’t fun. Try to cut it into the key way if you can so you don’t 
damage the shaft.
Good luck. 

- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34

> On May 19, 2020, at 10:15 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> John, 
> When I did this on my LF38. I ended up pulling the V-drive and pulled the 
> shaft out into the aft cabin. The hardest part was getting the prop off. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C&C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard yacht club
> 
>  Original message 
> From: John Christopher via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/19/20 16:23 (GMT-08:00)
> To: CNC CNC 
> Cc: John Christopher 
> Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
> 
> All
> 
> I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.
> 
> got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
> could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft 
> , and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
> install the dripless . 
> 
> I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
> impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. 
> I Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas 
> torches because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.
> 
> Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.
> 
> Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
> Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).
> 
> Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
> missing?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John
> 
> 1983 Landfall 38, #155
> Ontario Canada
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

John, When I did this on my LF38. I ended up pulling the V-drive and pulled the 
shaft out into the aft cabin. The hardest part was getting the prop off. Doug 
Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C&C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
 Original message From: John Christopher via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/19/20  16:23  (GMT-08:00) To: CNC CNC 
 Cc: John Christopher  Subject: 
Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal AllI’m trying to 
install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.got reasonable access to 
V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but could not for the life of me 
remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft , and of course I need to be 
able to remove the shaft partially from boat to install the dripless . I used 
everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an impact gun 
on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. I Heated 
coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas torches because 
the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.Everything requires 
removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.Boat is freshwater all 
it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS Shaft, steel coupler, 
bronze key (?).Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere 
that I am missing?Thanks,John1983 Landfall 38, #155Ontario Canada___

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Be careful, because the coupler may be soft enough that it could bend during 
the procedure.

I cut the shaft and replaced it at the time when I installed the PSS.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 20:26
To: CNC List
Cc: Len Mitchell; 
phygi...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the 
coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have 
actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite 
easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are going 
that far!
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my iPad
___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Ok thanks. Was avoiding taking the coupler or anything like that for fear of 
damaging the transmission (bearings, etc). 


/John

> On May 19, 2020, at 9:08 PM, Len Mitchell  wrote:
> 
> John, I have a puller too but was able to generate more force using the 
> socket and bolts but to be honest my puller is a pretty low quality princess 
> auto tool. I may have tapped the coupling with a small hammer when I had some 
> pressure on it too. Len 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>>> On May 19, 2020, at 9:02 PM, John Christopher  wrote:
>>> 
>> Wouldn’t a pulled work just the same?
>> 
>> 
>> /John
>> 
 On May 19, 2020, at 8:25 PM, Len Mitchell  wrote:
 
>>> John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the 
>>> coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have 
>>> actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite 
>>> easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are going 
>>> that far! 
>>> Len Mitchell
>>> Crazy Legs 
>>> 1989 37+
>>> Midland On.
>>> Sent from my iPad
___

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

John, I have a puller too but was able to generate more force using the socket 
and bolts but to be honest my puller is a pretty low quality princess auto 
tool. I may have tapped the coupling with a small hammer when I had some 
pressure on it too. Len 

Sent from my iPad

> On May 19, 2020, at 9:02 PM, John Christopher  wrote:
> 
> Wouldn’t a pulled work just the same?
> 
> 
> /John
> 
>>> On May 19, 2020, at 8:25 PM, Len Mitchell  wrote:
>>> 
>> John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the 
>> coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have 
>> actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite 
>> easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are going 
>> that far! 
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs 
>> 1989 37+
>> Midland On.
>> Sent from my iPad
___

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Wouldn’t a pulled work just the same?


/John

> On May 19, 2020, at 8:25 PM, Len Mitchell  wrote:
> 
> John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the 
> coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have 
> actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite 
> easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are going 
> that far!
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs 
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
> Sent from my iPad
___

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Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

John, I had to use a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the 
coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have 
actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite 
easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing if you are going 
that far! 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+
Midland On.
Sent from my iPad
___

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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Thanks Jack.  That’s a good contact for me.  There may be folks on the West 
Coast with that supply line as well if I need to look at new.  



> On May 19, 2020, at 3:41 PM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I replaced the Navtec rod heads on Honey's rigging twice in the first 35 
> years of owning her, finally had enough due to price & the PITA factor of 
> having to ship the rigging back to Navtec and wait for it's return. So I had 
> UK Sailmakers in Charleston, SC replace all of her standing rigging with 
> Navtec's dyform stainless 1x19 wire. That was almost 8 years ago and I 
> haven't had any issues and no more worrying about the rig falling due to head 
> failure.
> 
> Best regards,
> Jack Fitzgerald 
> S/V HONEY - US12788 (1974 C&C 39TM)
> Savannah, GA USA
> 
> This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
> Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
> privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
> that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
> communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
> have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 6:42 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I'm no expert but a Navtec rep told me the rod lasts forever.  It's the end 
> fittings that can develop cracks and need inspecting.  The rod can be 
> reheaded.  This process causes a loss of one inch of length, but longer 
> turnbuckles can be purchased or adding a toggle can counter that length 
> reduction.  
> 
> One important thing to check is to look for physical cracks and make sure the 
> end balls are free within the sockets in the mast and spreader fittings.
> 
> Chuck
> 
> 
> > On May 19, 2020 at 6:23 PM James Bibb via CnC-List  > > wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
> > repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at 
> > the same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the 
> > broader C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience. 
> > 
> > I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have 
> > it inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a 
> > layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company 
> > up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the 
> > existing.  
> > 
> > James Bibb
> > 
> > 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> > every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> > PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > 
> >
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

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Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

John,

Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go then 
the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the shaft out ... 
every time the set screw hole got to the top we added penetrating oil. Two 
days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in a drip less then.

Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.

This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a mechanic 
doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been allowed to 
visit the boat this spring.

Where abouts are you in Ontario?


Paul Fountain

Perception II

1985 C&C 33-II k/cb

Port Credit Yacht Club


From: CnC-List  on behalf of John Christopher 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: John Christopher 
Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

All

I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.

got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft , 
and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
install the dripless .

I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. I 
Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas torches 
because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.

Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.

Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).

Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
missing?

Thanks,

John

1983 Landfall 38, #155
Ontario Canada
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

I replaced the Navtec rod heads on Honey's rigging twice in the first 35
years of owning her, finally had enough due to price & the PITA factor of
having to ship the rigging back to Navtec and wait for it's return. So I
had UK Sailmakers in Charleston, SC replace all of her standing rigging
with Navtec's dyform stainless 1x19 wire. That was almost 8 years ago and I
haven't had any issues and no more worrying about the rig falling due to
head failure.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
S/V HONEY - US12788 (1974 C&C 39TM)
Savannah, GA USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 6:42 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm no expert but a Navtec rep told me the rod lasts forever.  It's the
> end fittings that can develop cracks and need inspecting.  The rod can be
> reheaded.  This process causes a loss of one inch of length, but longer
> turnbuckles can be purchased or adding a toggle can counter that length
> reduction.
>
> One important thing to check is to look for physical cracks and make sure
> the end balls are free within the sockets in the mast and spreader fittings.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> > On May 19, 2020 at 6:23 PM James Bibb via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations
> regarding repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the
> exercise at the same time….realized some of this conversation should be
> shared with the broader C&C group as it always goes into good reading for
> the experience.
> >
> > I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to
> have it inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by
> a layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging
> company up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left
> with the existing.
> >
> > James Bibb
> >
> > 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

All

I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.

got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on shaft , 
and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from boat to 
install the dripless . 

I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT ALL. I 
Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use gas torches 
because the transmission seal is right there and it will get ruined.

Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.

Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
Shaft, steel coupler, bronze key (?).

Am I missing something? Is there a bolt or otherwise  somewhere that I am 
missing?

Thanks,

John

1983 Landfall 38, #155
Ontario Canada___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I'm no expert but a Navtec rep told me the rod lasts forever.  It's the end 
fittings that can develop cracks and need inspecting.  The rod can be reheaded. 
 This process causes a loss of one inch of length, but longer turnbuckles can 
be purchased or adding a toggle can counter that length reduction.  

One important thing to check is to look for physical cracks and make sure the 
end balls are free within the sockets in the mast and spreader fittings.

Chuck


> On May 19, 2020 at 6:23 PM James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
> repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at 
> the same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the 
> broader C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience. 
> 
> I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
> inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a 
> layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company 
> up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the 
> existing.  
> 
> James Bibb
> 
> 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

___

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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Thanks!



> On May 19, 2020, at 2:38 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> James,
> 
> Great article on that here:
> 
> https://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/magazine/2016/january/inspecting-sailboat-rigging.asp
>  
> 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
> repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at 
> the same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the 
> broader C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience. 
> 
> I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
> inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a 
> layperson with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company 
> up here….I’d love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the 
> existing.  
> 
> James Bibb
> 
> 34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

James,

Great article on that here:

https://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/magazine/2016/january/inspecting-sailboat-rigging.asp

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On May 19, 2020, at 6:23 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
wrote:

Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at the 
same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the broader 
C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience. 

I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a layperson 
with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company up here….I’d 
love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the existing.  

James Bibb

34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly





___

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Stus-List Rod Rigging inspection

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Chuck and I have been engaged in too many exclusive conversations regarding 
repairing deck core on our boats since we’re going through the exercise at the 
same time….realized some of this conversation should be shared with the broader 
C&C group as it always goes into good reading for the experience. 

I’m taking down my mast…it’s has rod rigging and I’ve been meaning to have it 
inspected ever since I’ve purchased the boat.  Can this be done by a layperson 
with a dye test or something similar?  There’s no rigging company up here….I’d 
love to feel confident that there’s good life left with the existing.  

James Bibb

34/36R 1991 Darwin’s Folly





___

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Re: Stus-List Mast bracket replacement for 34'

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

South Shore Yachts.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of peter pomerantz
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: peter pomerantz 
Subject: Stus-List Mast bracket replacement for 34'

Looking for a replacement mast bracket for my CNC 34 ? Any ideas?

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Mast bracket replacement for 34’

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

What's a mast bracket?


On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 12:37 PM peter pomerantz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for a replacement mast bracket for my CNC 34 ? Any ideas?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Mast bracket replacement for 34’

[peter pomerantz via CnC-List]

Looking for a replacement mast bracket for my CNC 34 ? Any ideas?

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Gel coat

[Jeremy Dinsel via CnC-List]

There’s a video on the YouTube channel “Boat Works Today” where Andy shows how 
to match gel coat color using a matrix of colors blended together. It’s rather 
complex but he does a great job of explaining the steps. 

I think this is the video. If not or if you’re interest, check out the rest of 
the videos in the eight part series. https://youtu.be/MxzCZ-5lMxY

-j

> On May 19, 2020, at 06:46, Gerald Fennessey  wrote:
> 
> 
> I did and its not even close match.
> They sent me the color I requested but it was a qt. of base white not tint 
> was added. Then they replaced that with a gal of purple and replaced
> that with another gal of white.
> This has not been  fun.
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Dennis C. 
> Sent: Mon, May 18, 2020 7:30 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gel coat
> 
> It will be a different color due to fading.  
> 
> Rent or buy one or both of the gelcoat color books here:
> 
> https://www.fibreglast.com/category/colorgelcoat 
> 
> Match the swatches by holding them at different spots on the boat during 
> different light conditions.  Order the best match.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 1:42 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I have a 1985 C&C 35 mk3 does anyone know  what color the deck gelcoat is?  
> Its off white but having 
> hard time matching.
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> Gerry Fennessey
> Fianna 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Gel coat

[Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List]

I did and its not even close match.They sent me the color I requested but it 
was a qt. of base white not tint was added. Then they replaced that with a gal 
of purple and replacedthat with another gal of white.This has not been  fun.

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Mon, May 18, 2020 7:30 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gel coat

It will be a different color due to fading.  
Rent or buy one or both of the gelcoat color books here:
https://www.fibreglast.com/category/colorgelcoat 
Match the swatches by holding them at different spots on the boat during 
different light conditions.  Order the best match.

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 1:42 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I have a 1985 C&C 35 mk3 does anyone know  what color the deck gelcoat is?  Its 
off white but having hard time matching.Any help would be appreciated.
ThanksGerry FennesseyFianna ___

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-- 
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
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Re: Stus-List Gel coat

[Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List]

Where are you going to purchase it from ?


-Original Message-
From: JP Mail via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail 
Sent: Mon, May 18, 2020 4:08 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gel coat

What color it was When built is different than today I would believe. I’m 
planning on recording a small section forward. I Plan on using Quantum 99 
topcoat. I ordered the swatch sheet. No two of us could nail it down but #1022 
insignia white is what we’re going with.JonHideaway 35-3

Sent from my iPhone 

On May 18, 2020, at 2:42 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I have a 1985 C&C 35 mk3 does anyone know  what color the deck gelcoat is?  
Its off white but having hard time matching.Any help would be appreciated.
ThanksGerry FennesseyFianna ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Portlight Windows

[Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List]

If the exterior frames are in good condition (no kinks, minimal corrosion), 
it’s definitely worth doing. Pull out the grey gasket and the lens just comes 
out. Drill out the rivets, undo the bolts, remove the frames and clean them up. 
You can throw out the interior rings if you decide to fill the gap. Since the 
space in yours is greater than mine was, you might consider epoxying splines of 
appropriate thickness in the gap all around. This will give the consistent 
thickness you want and straight edges as well. Sail batten material stacked to 
be thick enough might be the answer. Clamp them in place so you don’t lose 
them! Use the original lenses as patterns for the new ones. Lexan isn’t great 
in UV, so they sell it with one side treated. Make sure that you install it 
with that side out! You’ll need to obtain new gasket material. I remember a 
post a few months ago where someone had a source for gasket other than buying 
some of the original stuff.

Before reinstalling the frames, you have the opportunity to make the holes 
really nice and neat and paint the areas. When I reinstalled my frames, I 
decided that using screws only along with sealant was strong enough to suit my 
taste, so I have nothing showing on the inside of the boat. You could 
through-bolt the corners and maybe the center holes if you aren’t sure.

It’s a very satisfying and not-too-difficult job if you commit. Have fun!


Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
C&C 30-9 Ginkgo, Gloucester MA
C&C 39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON

> On May 18, 2020, at 11:06 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rich,
> 
> I like the sounds of this upgrade, as I was quite surprised to hear the 
> lenses are only 1/8" thick. I suspect mine are original except over the nav 
> table, which is either thinner or a softer material, as it flexes noticeably 
> more, and there are slight bends in the frame. I don't have metal interior 
> frames, just flimsy fiberglass ones which have plenty of cracks. I reinforced 
> one with epoxy from the back, and painted, but the cracks are coming back. 
> The one over the stove is melted, so may be hard to rebuild. The gap between 
> deck and liner on my 35 is about 3/8", so will need a fair amount of epoxy to 
> fill. The fiberglass inner frames hide the gap (mostly), so the epoxy job 
> doesn't have to be perfect. 
> 
> I'm assuming I just tear out the old seals from the outside and then pop the 
> lens out? By the looks of it, the old rubber seals will probably fall apart 
> quite easily. I didn't realize there was foam tape on the inside; I guess 
> that explains the bit of stuff creeping out of the crack. Given the looks of 
> them, I am actually surprised they don't leak more, so I'm also hesitant to 
> touch them until I am really prepared to do it right.
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
> 
> 
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 7:11 PM Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Years ago I decided that I wanted to keep the original Beclawat portlight 
> frames for the larger portlights on my C&C 30 rather than having custom long 
> ones made. To me, their proportion looks just right on the boat. I didn’t 
> like the 1/8” acrylic however - not very robust for that size of port. I did 
> what Shawn suggests - filled the approximate 1/8” gap between the headliner 
> and deck with epoxy thickened with structural filler, trying to ensure that 
> the overall thickness was consistent around the perimeter - some shims may be 
> needed to pry out parts of it to achieve this. I eliminated the interior 
> aluminum trim ring - it is not needed with the new solid structure. I used 
> 3/16” Lexan for the lenses and eliminated the foam tape to make room for the 
> extra thickness of material. It has worked flawlessly for many years - far 
> stronger and no leaks. The interior look is improved as well.
> 
> Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
> C&C 30-9 Ginkgo, Gloucester MA
> C&C 39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON
> 
>> On May 17, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> How about the 70s vintage aluminum framed portlights? I understand I will 
>> need new rubber inserts (Catalina direct has been suggested, but not sure if 
>> there is a source in Canada?), but is Dow 795 also suitable for the frame to 
>> deck seal?
>> 
>> I'm thinking I will fill the void between the deck and liner with epoxy, 
>> after stuffing a foam gasket around the joint and inward about 3/4" to 
>> contain the epoxy, so there is a stiffer surface. From the factory there 
>> were wooden shims and a few gobs of epoxy or similar, but most of the void 
>> is wide open.
>> 
>> I know I could upgrade to newer portlights, or maybe try to go frameless, 
>> but want to keep the look of the original if I can make it work well. I was 
>> thinking of buffing the frames to a shi