Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Fair enough Josh,  I don't have the backup of the high capacity centrifugal 
pump.Of course, with my recent fiasco. I am evidently at much higher risk of 
being killed by an errant jetski than drowning because my bilge pump won't keep 
up.  :(More on that is forthcoming...Thanks as always to Josh, your insights 
are always invaluable. Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  11:29 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge pump question Bruce,That's why I like the 2 stage system which 
I suggested.  It gets the best of both worlds.  You absolutely make valid 
points about the weaknesses of centrifugal pumps.Josh On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 
22:53 bwhitmore via CnC-List  wrote:I hate disagreeing 
with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  But my opinion is that if you 
need volume pumping, something is dramatically wrong.  If you're not on the 
boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, it may give you more time to 
find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to clog, bind up, or at least 
never pump to the stated volume.   I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will 
actually pump that much than a 1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't 
think I can fully rely on that actually delivers 500 gph.Centrifugal pumps tend 
to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm pumps are not affected nearly 
as much.Just my $.02 worthBruce Sent from Samsung tablet. Original 
message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  Date: 
6/23/20  10:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List  Cc: Josh 
Muckley  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question The 
diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend to be 
relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding as high of 
a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic switch.  You could 
have them run simultaneously but really having just the new high flow pump run 
as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge is pumped, you can pump the 
dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.For high flow you're basically going 
to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the original Rule with another pricey 
Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood 
Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump. 
 I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 3 years.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:Listers:

        New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruce,

That's why I like the 2 stage system which I suggested.  It gets the best
of both worlds.  You absolutely make valid points about the weaknesses of
centrifugal pumps.

Josh


On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 22:53 bwhitmore via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.
>
> But my opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is
> dramatically wrong.  If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If
> you're on the boat, it may give you more time to find the leak, but my
> centrifugal pumps tend to clog, bind up, or at least never pump to the
> stated volume.
>
> I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a
> 1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that
> actually delivers 500 gph.
>
> Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm
> pumps are not affected nearly as much.
>
> Just my $.02 worth
>
> Bruce
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 6/23/20 10:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question
>
> The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they
> tend to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider
> adding as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an
> automatic switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really having
> just the new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once
> the bilge is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm
> pump.
>
> For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I
> replaced the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed
> withing 3 years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed
> within 3 years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not
> hopeful that it will last more than 3 years.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers:
>>
>> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for
>> the bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
>> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
>> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
>> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
>> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
>> suggestions.
>>
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I didn’t chime in, so you’re only disagreeing with Josh :-). 

I’m way off the norm on this topic. Years ago, I installed an automatic bilge 
pump with a float switch on the Enterprise-A (C 34) which worked great for a 
couple of months. Then the float switch malfunctioned and was stuck in the on 
position, killing the battery. 

Now I’m back to the old fashioned way - no automatic; just switched. 

Normally, my bilge is steadily low. And after some major rainfall, it’ll pump 
out pretty quickly. 

I agree with Bruce — if you find that you need more than 300gph on a regular 
basis, you’ve got a bigger problem and you’re better off finding it and 
correcting it. 

My pump is 200gph, and maybe I’ll use it once every two months for three 
minutes or less. The last time I had to run it more frequently than that, I 
needed new packing in my stuffing box. 

PS - Don’t  be afraid to disagree with Josh. Sometimes it’s good to put that 
young hippie know-it-all in his place now and then. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jun 23, 2020, at 10:53 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:


I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  

But my opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is dramatically 
wrong.  If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, 
it may give you more time to find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to 
clog, bind up, or at least never pump to the stated volume.   

I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a 
1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that 
actually delivers 500 gph.

Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm pumps 
are not affected nearly as much.

Just my $.02 worth

Bruce 


Sent from Samsung tablet.


 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 6/23/20 10:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend to 
be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding as high 
of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic switch.  You 
could have them run simultaneously but really having just the new high flow 
pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge is pumped, you can 
pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the 
original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I 
replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced 
it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 
3 years.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD





> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Listers:
> 
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
> and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
> that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
> people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so 
> I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Josh;

 

I installed the Johnson pump several years ago. I really like the fact that the 
motor can be easily removed for cleaning and for replacement. Yes, it still 
needs to be replaced about every 3 years; I actually keep a spare motor 
cartridge among the spares on the boat.

 

I’m lucky that when I bought the first pump from West Marine I added the 3 year 
extended warranty (about $15 IIRC). When the first motor failed, I installed 
the spare and got a new replacement from WM under the warranty (which became 
the spare). I also bought the extended warranty on that replacement pump. I 
think the spare currently on the boat is the third one that has been replaced 
under extended warranty over the years.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

 

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the 
original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I 
replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced 
it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 
3 years.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

What is your pitch and diameter on your FlexoFold, what can you get at 2800 
RPM, and what is the shaft size?  I am likely going down that road in the next 
few week, and if you have the 37+, want to make sure I have real life 
examples.ThanksBruce Whitmore Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  7:57 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rob Hamlin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed Thanks everyone, I was maintaining around 6.5 knts 
at 2,200 with a 3HM and 3 blade folding flexafold. Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 
23, 2020, at 4:17 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:C 37/40 XL, loaded for cruising, fuel & water tanks full:Non standard 
engine, a Yanmar 3JH2-TBE (turbo, 47 hp)Transmission 2.64 : 1 reduction 
ratioPropeller Size:  18” - 3 blade   featheringThe following assumes no 
head wind to speak of, and fairly calm water:3200 RPM, 7.0 kts3400 RPM 7.1 
ktsWide open - 3800 to 3900 RPM 8.0 kts, lots more fuel being burnt.Say 10 to 
15 knots on the nose and some waves: 3200 RPM 6.0 to 6.4 kts.On Tue, 23 Jun 
2020 at 13:53, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  wrote:Hi
What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?  

Thanks
Rob



Sent from my iPhone
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

-- Ken Heaton & Anne TobinS/V Salazar - Can 54955C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67Cape 
Breton Island, Nova ScotiaC 37/40 XL Salazar  -- "Nice? It's the only thing," 
said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned forward for his stroke. "Believe me, 
my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth 
doing as simply messing about in boats.""Simply messing...about in boats -- or 
with boats... In or out of 'em it doesn't matter. Nothing seems to matter, 
that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you 
arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you 
never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in 
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and 
you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."
___Thanks everyone for supporting 
this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  But my 
opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is dramatically wrong.  
If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, it may 
give you more time to find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to clog, 
bind up, or at least never pump to the stated volume.   I'd rather have a 300 
gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a 1,000 rated gph pump that 
ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that actually delivers 500 
gph.Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm 
pumps are not affected nearly as much.Just my $.02 worthBruce Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  10:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge pump question The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the 
very last drops but they tend to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest 
that you consider adding as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run 
on an automatic switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really 
having just the new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once 
the bilge is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm 
pump.For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I 
replaced the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 
years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years 
and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will 
last more than 3 years.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn 
Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
wrote:Listers:

        New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend
to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding
as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic
switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really having just the
new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge
is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.

For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced
the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3
years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3
years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that
it will last more than 3 years.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD





On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers:
>
> New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the
> bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the
> switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it
> occurs to me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.
> Which pumps to people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water
> witch sensor, so I don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for
> suggestions.
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I went with a Whale Gulper for both bilge pumps with rule floating switches.   
I tried the water Witch and twice had it running way after shut down should 
have occurred.  I don't trust them to turn off appropriately.Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  4:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wolf...@erie.net Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump 
question Listers:New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump 
for the bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the 
switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to 
me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. Thanks 
everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Rob Hamlin via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone, I was maintaining around 6.5 knts at 2,200 with a 3HM and 3 
blade folding flexafold. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 23, 2020, at 4:17 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> C 37/40 XL, loaded for cruising, fuel & water tanks full:
> Non standard engine, a Yanmar 3JH2-TBE (turbo, 47 hp)
> Transmission 2.64 : 1 reduction ratio
> Propeller Size:  18” - 3 blade feathering
> 
> The following assumes no head wind to speak of, and fairly calm water:
> 3200 RPM, 7.0 kts
> 3400 RPM 7.1 kts
> Wide open - 3800 to 3900 RPM 8.0 kts, lots more fuel being burnt.
> 
> Say 10 to 15 knots on the nose and some waves: 3200 RPM 6.0 to 6.4 kts.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, 23 Jun 2020 at 13:53, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi
>> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?  
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Rob
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> 
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> C 37/40 XL Salazar  
> -- 
> "Nice? It's the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned 
> forward for his stroke. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- 
> absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in 
> boats."
> 
> "Simply messing...about in boats -- or with boats... In or out of 'em it 
> doesn't matter. Nothing seems to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you 
> get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or 
> whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, 
> you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've 
> done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, 
> but you'd much better not."
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

My 35 used to have this, but the old pump was removed (needs a new
diaphragm). It was plumbed into the sink drain; to be safe, you'll want to
place the tee above the water line, and add an anti-siphon loop to avoid
the foot pump flooding the boat if something fails.

One of these days I'd like to re-install it to save on water.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 10:20 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rick:
>
>
>
> That’s interesting.  Which thru-hull is the source of your
> raw water intake?
>
>
>
> Matt
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Rick
> Rohwer via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 23, 2020 1:14 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Rohwer 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List icebox drain
>
>
>
> The galley foot pump in my 37+ is configured to pump the ice box into the
> sink, or by switching two valves, use raw water for dish rinsing etc to
> save fresh water. Took me a while to figure it out but it’s ingenious!
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs

[Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List]

I just need to publicly acknowledge that Bill Coleman is the Ultimate Previous 
Owner (UPO). He solved most of my problems before they became my problem. 
Thanks Bill!

Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
C 39-59 Sea Fox (ex. Coltrek)
Hamilton, ON

> On Jun 23, 2020, at 12:12 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> The reason I used a light spring to counteract the strong spring, is that the 
> cable worked fine with the old engine. I just didn’t want to over work the 
> throttle cable, they tend to break when you least expect it, and pinching it 
> just adds to the stress.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
> Bush via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 11:32 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Richard Bush
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs
>  
> What about an old fashioned bunge cord? a small one, of course...
>  
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584;
>  
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
> 
> Sent: Tue, Jun 23, 2020 11:23 am
> Subject: Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs
> 
> I found a clamp that pinches the throttle cable on my boat.  A "google" 
> turned up the part is available from West Marine.  It prevents the throttle 
> from sliding back to idle.
>  
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seastar-solutions--throttle-cable-brake-for-3300-4600-6400-series-cable--162018
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[David Risch via CnC-List]

I did the same but also plumbed in salt water as an option.  One pump 3 uses.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Rohwer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List icebox drain

The galley foot pump in my 37+ is configured to pump the ice box into the sink, 
or by switching two valves, use raw water for dish rinsing etc to save fresh 
water. Took me a while to figure it out but it’s ingenious!
Sent from my iPad


On Jun 23, 2020, at 09:36, Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

FWIW, my 42 Custom (six years older) has a hose draining from underneath the 
icebox to a location a two or three feet inboard under the floorboards (just 
forward of the engine).  From there, gravity takes the water to the bilge.  The 
hose looks like it was cut by a PO.  I have toying with the idea of buying a 
footpump to drain it to the galley sink.  There is evidence that this may have 
been the original setup.

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of George Cone via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 3:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: George Cone mailto:gc...@alpinesy.com>>
Subject: Stus-List icebox drain

I have an 1981 C & C 40. I have never been able to find the output of the drain 
line on the icebox. Where does it come out from the floorboards where I can 
find it- under the sink area? It seems to travel that way from the icebox? Is 
there any valve on it?

Thanks,

George Cone
Burlington, VT
!981 C 40
UNSINKABLE II
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Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.

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Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Good  question! I will take a look!  I can’t remember.

Rick 

> On Jun 23, 2020, at 10:20, Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Rick:
>  
> That’s interesting.  Which thru-hull is the source of your 
> raw water intake?
>  
> Matt
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Rohwer via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 1:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Rick Rohwer 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List icebox drain
>  
> The galley foot pump in my 37+ is configured to pump the ice box into the 
> sink, or by switching two valves, use raw water for dish rinsing etc to save 
> fresh water. Took me a while to figure it out but it’s ingenious!
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

C 37/40 XL, loaded for cruising, fuel & water tanks full:
Non standard engine, a Yanmar 3JH2-TBE (turbo, 47 hp)
Transmission 2.64 : 1 reduction ratio
Propeller Size:  18” - 3 blade feathering

The following assumes no head wind to speak of, and fairly calm water:
3200 RPM, 7.0 kts
3400 RPM 7.1 kts
Wide open - 3800 to 3900 RPM 8.0 kts, lots more fuel being burnt.

Say 10 to 15 knots on the nose and some waves: 3200 RPM 6.0 to 6.4 kts.



On Tue, 23 Jun 2020 at 13:53, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi
> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin

S/V Salazar - Can 54955

C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
C 37/40 XL Salazar 
-- 
"Nice? It's the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned
forward for his stroke. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing --
absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in
boats."

"Simply messing...about in boats -- or with boats... In or out of 'em it
doesn't matter. Nothing seems to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether
you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination
or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at
all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when
you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if
you like, but you'd much better not."
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Stus-List Bilge pump question

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Listers:

New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Stus-List 37/40 wine storage

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Rob, love your design, great job! Wine storage is maybe the only area that 
needs improvement! Just another first world problem! We have been suffering so 
long too. Insert sarcastic grin here! X
Len 

Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Change your air filter.  Engine not getting enough air.  Simple first step.

Allen MIles
S/V Septima
C 30-2
Hampton, VA

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:43 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Quick question and I'll put it out to the list too.  I've got a fair
> amount of black smoke that dirties the stern and is pretty visable while
> motoring.
>
> Any thoughts on where to start?
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:40 PM, Peter Cowenhoven
>  wrote:
> Really, wierd and that was consistently slower?
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:32 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Safety Gear / First Aid / Flares

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Edd, I use the hidden cupboard in the starboard side seating in front of the 
HWT. The first aid kit is over the V berth vanity and V berth sink. If you cut 
yourself that sink is handy for repairs! 
Len

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Stus-List 37+ cruise speed

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

I run at 2200 rpms and get 6.5 knots. That’s where she is smooth but working a 
little. It feels like the sweet spot. She will get 7+ if I add throttle but 
vibrates more and makes more noise. Every 37+ could be a little different 
depending on drive train. Universal M35 and a 2 blade max prop at 22 degrees 
here with a slippery VC17 bottom and zero barnacles in fresh water. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+
Midland On. 

Sent from my mobile device. 
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Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

With a clean bottom, 7.5 @ ~2800 RPM.  SOG varies. ;)

At 10:23 AM 6/23/2020, you wrote:


Message: 2
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2020 12:52:33 -0400
From: Rob Hamlin 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
Message-ID: <41fc3106-a627-4eee-bcab-6b8f5861b...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Hi
What is everyone?s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?

Thanks
Rob



Sent from my iPhone


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

C 35-1 with Universal 25XPB and 14 x 14 Martec 2 blade folder - ~6.4
knots at 2450 rpm (80% max) and about 0.7 gph fuel consumption.  Suspect
prop is slightly under pitched.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 11:53 AM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 I believe the recommendation is to cruise at 80% of max rpm. For my Universal 
3cyl that's a cruising rpm of about 2500.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL



Hi
What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed? 

Thanks
Rob



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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Probably as many opinions on cruise speed as on best anchors, etc. Plus like 
many simple questions, the answer: ‘It’s Complicated’ (also a local power boat 
name!).
I faced this issue years ago when I decided to go to a 2 blade folding Gori 
racing prop from my former 3 blade feathering prop. IIRC, it started with the 
space I had for the prop to spin with minimal interference/maximum clearance 
from the hull. This set the prop diameter and my waterline length along with 
engine/transmission optimal rpm set the prop pitch to reach hull speed in flat 
water.
In my case, it required a different transmission than the original that came 
with my Beta 28 and which worked fine with my Max-Prop. 
Anyhow my Beta has ~ maximum power at 3200 rpm with 3600 as redline and most 
diesels like to be run and are designed to run near max rpm for various reasons.
Thus with guidance from Geoff at AB Marine and these parameters, I got the new 
prop and transmission and now cruise in flat water at ~7.2-7.4 knots with 3200 
rpm.
This was also my cruising speed before I made the changes but again the prop, 
transmission and engine were ‘matched’ (mostly by Max-Prop blade diameter and 
it’s adjustable pitch) to have the engine do 3000-3200 rpm and the boat get to 
hull speed (+\-) at that rpm in flat water.
YMMV but this is my story and I’m sticking to it!
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Tuesday, June 23, 2020, Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
wrote:

#yiv1292176394 #yiv1292176394 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv1292176394 
#yiv1292176394 p.yiv1292176394MsoNormal, #yiv1292176394 
li.yiv1292176394MsoNormal, #yiv1292176394 div.yiv1292176394MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv1292176394
 a:link, #yiv1292176394 span.yiv1292176394MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1292176394 
span.yiv1292176394EmailStyle18 
{font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv1292176394 
.yiv1292176394MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered 
{}#yiv1292176394 div.yiv1292176394WordSection1 {}#yiv1292176394 
My decades-old Westerbeke 40 is happy at 2000 RPM, maybe slightly more, which 
produces a solid 6.5 knots in good weather. 

  

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 9:53 AM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi
What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?  

Thanks
Rob



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List C 29 Teak Hand Rails and Mainsheet Bridge Traveler

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

As Dennis said, you can fabricate your own handrails.  I did for my 30 MK I, 
with help from one of my crew who is a very skilled woodworker and has a 
complete wood shop in his garage.

The hardest part was finding a teak plank long enough.  I finally found one at 
a specialty wood store in a city an hour away.  It was about 1” thick, 5.5” 
wide, and 12’ long.

The other hardest part was removing the old handrails.  There was one screw 
whose head I could not access; it was covered by bulkhead trim I didn’t want to 
remove.

Pictures of my project are at 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTc093OExfMGRBX1E?usp=sharing 


My buddy ripped the plank lengthwise and doweled the two strips together so he 
could cut two perfectly symmetric handrails, using an old one we removed intact 
as a template.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jun 23, 2020, at 10:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Are you talking about moving the traveler from the bridge deck to the cabin 
> top?  If so, Garhauer makes several traveler risers which might work.   
> 
> https://www.garhauermarine.com/travelers/traveler-risers/heavy-duty-universal-traveler-riser-ur-2.html
>  
> 
> 
> Re handrails - most C handrails have non-standard spacing.  You can easily 
> make your own if you have access to a hole saw, jigsaw and router.  
> Otherwise, there are a couple custom teak sites on the internet which can 
> clone them for you.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 11:09 AM Eric Templeton via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Looking for recommendations on a Mainsheet Bridge Traveler to open up the 
> cockpit / companionway area.
> 
>  
> 
> Also looking for replacement Hand Rails (Teak, 6 loop, about 75” length with 
> 12 in centers for mounting.
> 
>  
> 
> C 29 Mk1 1979
> 
> 
> Eric
> 
>  
> 
> 
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> 
> Eric Templeton
> 
> (C) +1.630.261.5873
> 
> etchic...@yahoo.com 
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 

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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

My decades-old Westerbeke 40 is happy at 2000 RPM, maybe slightly more, which 
produces a solid 6.5 knots in good weather. 

 

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 9:53 AM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi
What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?  

Thanks
Rob



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List C 29 Teak Hand Rails and Mainsheet Bridge Traveler

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Hi Eric,
I just emailed Whitecap Industries (they make teak handrails) about making
handrails with a 12 inch center. They make them with 10 5/16 centers.
I will let you know what they say.
Doug

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 9:09 AM Eric Templeton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for recommendations on a Mainsheet Bridge Traveler to open up the
> cockpit / companionway area.
>
>
>
> Also looking for replacement Hand Rails (Teak, 6 loop, about 75” length
> with 12 in centers for mounting.
>
>
>
> C 29 Mk1 1979
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
>
> *Eric Templeton*
>
> (C) *+1.630.261.5873*
>
> etchic...@yahoo.com
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C LandFall 39
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I motor at 2500 for 6.5-6.9kts. I can go faster but why burn the fuel.
Doug

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 9:53 AM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
> What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?
>
> Thanks
> Rob
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C LandFall 39
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I'll second Edd's response, but we have a Yanmar 3JH@E with 36 hp, and won't 
get much faster at higher RPMs.  Maybe 7.4 kts.
I'm hoping for a bit more when I get the bottom done (which will be happening 
shortly)

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

  
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Stus-List C 29 Mainsheet Bridge Traveler

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Don’t forget that the cabin top isn’t strong enough for the traveler, so 
structure needs to be added  . . . .
But it’s certainly doable  . . .

Rob Ball   C 34

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Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Rick:

 

That’s interesting.  Which thru-hull is the source of your raw 
water intake?

 

Matt

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Rick Rohwer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List icebox drain

 

The galley foot pump in my 37+ is configured to pump the ice box into the sink, 
or by switching two valves, use raw water for dish rinsing etc to save fresh 
water. Took me a while to figure it out but it’s ingenious!

Sent from my iPad







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Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

The galley foot pump in my 37+ is configured to pump the ice box into the sink, 
or by switching two valves, use raw water for dish rinsing etc to save fresh 
water. Took me a while to figure it out but it’s ingenious!

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 23, 2020, at 09:36, Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> FWIW, my 42 Custom (six years older) has a hose draining from underneath the 
> icebox to a location a two or three feet inboard under the floorboards (just 
> forward of the engine).  From there, gravity takes the water to the bilge.  
> The hose looks like it was cut by a PO.  I have toying with the idea of 
> buying a footpump to drain it to the galley sink.  There is evidence that 
> this may have been the original setup. 
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of George Cone via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 3:42 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: George Cone 
> Subject: Stus-List icebox drain
>  
> I have an 1981 C & C 40. I have never been able to find the output of the 
> drain line on the icebox. Where does it come out from the floorboards where I 
> can find it- under the sink area? It seems to travel that way from the 
> icebox? Is there any valve on it?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> George Cone
> Burlington, VT
> !981 C 40
> UNSINKABLE II
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Rob,

At about 2800 RPMs in my Beta 30, I’ll get the Enterprise up to Warp 7.2 (7.2 
knots). If I increase the RPMs, she won’t go faster than that. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jun 23, 2020, at 12:53 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi
What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?  

Thanks
Rob



Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Rob Hamlin via CnC-List]

Hi
What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?  

Thanks
Rob



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List icebox drain

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, my 42 Custom (six years older) has a hose draining from underneath the
icebox to a location a two or three feet inboard under the floorboards (just
forward of the engine).  From there, gravity takes the water to the bilge.
The hose looks like it was cut by a PO.  I have toying with the idea of
buying a footpump to drain it to the galley sink.  There is evidence that
this may have been the original setup.  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of George Cone via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 3:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: George Cone 
Subject: Stus-List icebox drain

 

I have an 1981 C & C 40. I have never been able to find the output of the
drain line on the icebox. Where does it come out from the floorboards where
I can find it- under the sink area? It seems to travel that way from the
icebox? Is there any valve on it? 

 

Thanks,

 

George Cone

Burlington, VT 

!981 C 40

UNSINKABLE II

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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Yes, overheating will cause black smoke (I discovered).

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 4:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

 

Black smoke on the transom could be normal and you can simply clean it off with 
soap and water.  Black smoke means unburned diesel fuel is exiting the exhaust. 
 Diesel engines normally project black smoke when first started or heavily 
loaded and their rings haven't warmed up enough to seat properly.  Could mean 
the rings or cylinders are worn.  Something you could try is to change your oil 
and add some SeaFoam to it when you add the new oil.  It helps with lubrication 
and helps the rings do their job.  If that doesn't improve the smoke, change it 
again and add the Seafoam to both lube oil and the diesel fuel tank.  

 

How's the engine temperature?  It's important to keep it within manfacturer's 
min and max.  

 

Chuck 

On June 22, 2020 at 2:53 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

Black smoke from a diesel is usually an indication the engine is loaded up. ie. 
Pulling hard. It could also mean your injectors and or injection pump need 
overhaul.  

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy 

sv Rebecca Leah  

C Landfall 39 

Port Orchard yacht club 

 

 Original message  

From: Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 6/22/20 11:42 (GMT-08:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Peter Cowenhoven mailto:pscowenho...@yahoo.com> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35 

 

Quick question and I'll put it out to the list too.  I've got a fair amount of 
black smoke that dirties the stern and is pretty visable while motoring.   
Any thoughts on where to start? 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

  

 

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:40 PM, Peter Cowenhoven 

mailto:pscowenho...@yahoo.com> > wrote: 

Really, wierd and that was consistently slower? 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 

  

 

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:32 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

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to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 


  

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Re: Stus-List C 29 Teak Hand Rails and Mainsheet Bridge Traveler

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Are you talking about moving the traveler from the bridge deck to the cabin
top?  If so, Garhauer makes several traveler risers which might work.

https://www.garhauermarine.com/travelers/traveler-risers/heavy-duty-universal-traveler-riser-ur-2.html

Re handrails - most C handrails have non-standard spacing.  You can
easily make your own if you have access to a hole saw, jigsaw and router.
Otherwise, there are a couple custom teak sites on the internet which can
clone them for you.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 11:09 AM Eric Templeton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for recommendations on a Mainsheet Bridge Traveler to open up the
> cockpit / companionway area.
>
>
>
> Also looking for replacement Hand Rails (Teak, 6 loop, about 75” length
> with 12 in centers for mounting.
>
>
>
> C 29 Mk1 1979
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
>
> *Eric Templeton*
>
> (C) *+1.630.261.5873*
>
> etchic...@yahoo.com
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List C 29 Teak Hand Rails and Mainsheet Bridge Traveler

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Pleased with my Harken windward-sheeting traveller installed just in front of 
the companionway 27-III.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 23, 2020, at 12:09 PM, Eric Templeton via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Looking for recommendations on a Mainsheet Bridge Traveler to open up the 
cockpit / companionway area.

Also looking for replacement Hand Rails (Teak, 6 loop, about 75” length with 12 
in centers for mounting.

C 29 Mk1 1979

Eric


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Eric Templeton
(C) +1.630.261.5873
etchic...@yahoo.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

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Re: Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

The reason I used a light spring to counteract the strong spring, is that the 
cable worked fine with the old engine. I just didn’t want to over work the 
throttle cable, they tend to break when you least expect it, and pinching it 
just adds to the stress.

 

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard Bush 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 11:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs

 

What about an old fashioned bunge cord? a small one, of course...

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584;

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 

Sent: Tue, Jun 23, 2020 11:23 am
Subject: Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs

I found a clamp that pinches the throttle cable on my boat.  A "google" turned 
up the part is available from West Marine.  It prevents the throttle from 
sliding back to idle. 

 

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seastar-solutions--throttle-cable-brake-for-3300-4600-6400-series-cable--162018
 

 

 

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Stus-List C 29 Teak Hand Rails and Mainsheet Bridge Traveler

[Eric Templeton via CnC-List]

Looking for recommendations on a Mainsheet Bridge Traveler to open up the 
cockpit / companionway area.

 

Also looking for replacement Hand Rails (Teak, 6 loop, about 75” length with 12 
in centers for mounting.

 

C 29 Mk1 1979


Eric 

 


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Eric Templeton

(C) +1.630.261.5873

etchic...@yahoo.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

What about an old fashioned bunge cord? a small one, of course...
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list 

Sent: Tue, Jun 23, 2020 11:23 am
Subject: Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs

  I found a clamp that pinches the throttle cable on my boat.  A "google" 
turned up the part is available from West Marine.  It prevents the throttle 
from sliding back to idle.   
   
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seastar-solutions--throttle-cable-brake-for-3300-4600-6400-series-cable--162018
   
 
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Stus-List Engine Throttle pinch clamp & RPMs

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I found a clamp that pinches the throttle cable on my boat.  A "google" turned 
up the part is available from West Marine.  It prevents the throttle from 
sliding back to idle.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seastar-solutions--throttle-cable-brake-for-3300-4600-6400-series-cable--162018

Engine RPMs:  My engine ran fine when I first got my boat but the Tach read low 
all the time.  Max was 1800.  I checked it using a hand held tachometer and 
found the boat tach was reading half the RPMs the engine was turning.   Looking 
at the Tach instrument, I found I could rotate a knob on the back that worked 
as a multiplier and I got the readings to be closer to real.   The engine was 
turning 3600 when the boat tach read 3400.  I just live with the difference.   
I find the temperature gage is a better forecaster of performance and usually 
set the throttle so she stays below 195 degrees.

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md

> On June 23, 2020 at 10:13 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> When I installed the new Kubota on my 39 oh, I could not keep the 
> throttle fully extended either. The spring for the throttle was inside the 
> engine, so there was no changing that. So, I experimented with a number of 
> extension springs from the local hardware untill I found one that pulled 
> against it just right so that it would stay where I wanted it. 
> This is probably new information for Rich.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
> 
> On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 5:20 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > 
> > Back when our engine controls were installed, there was no easy way 
> > to induce friction to the throttle cable to keep the throttle return from 
> > backing the engine down.  The common fix was to place a small clamp on the 
> > throttle cable housing and induce just enough compression on the cable to 
> > prevent it from backing down by itself.
> > 
> > Mine has a factory installed clamp located adjacent to the 
> > starboard lazarette so it is pretty accessible if it needs adjustment.  On 
> > newer pedestal top engine controls (Edson 816 and 870 models), there’s a 
> > hex bolt located inside the control housing that puts pressure on a bushing 
> > surrounding the throttle lever.
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > There’s no way my diesel revs anywhere near as high as yours.  If 
> > my engine revs over 2500, the engine feels like it is going to jump clear 
> > out of the hull.  At 2100 RPM, Half Magic cruises well over 6knts in smooth 
> > water, 2500 just digs a bigger hole in the water..  Maybe I need motor 
> > mounts???
> > 
> > Chuck Gilchrest
> > 
> > S/V Half Magic
> > 
> > 1983 Landfall 35
> > 
> > Padanaram, MA
> > 
> > > 
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Re: Stus-List Safety Gear / First Aid / Flares

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Well that depends…how often do you hurt yourself in the dark needing a rescue?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 10:45 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Safety Gear / First Aid / Flares

Listers,

This week and next, I’m getting much-needed air conditioning installed on my 
37+, and the unit will be going behind the companionway steps on top of the 
engine compartment……

… which wa the location of my first aid kit, flashlights and flare gun 
container — a piace that was easy to access whether down below or up on deck in 
case of an emergency.

Now faced with the relocation of these objects, I’d like to inquire from the 
group where you keep these things on your boat.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log












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Stus-List Safety Gear / First Aid / Flares

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

This week and next, I’m getting much-needed air conditioning installed on my 
37+, and the unit will be going behind the companionway steps on top of the 
engine compartment……

… which wa the location of my first aid kit, flashlights and flare gun 
container — a piace that was easy to access whether down below or up on deck in 
case of an emergency. 

Now faced with the relocation of these objects, I’d like to inquire from the 
group where you keep these things on your boat. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

When I installed the new Kubota on my 39 oh, I could not keep the throttle
fully extended either. The spring for the throttle was inside the engine,
so there was no changing that. So, I experimented with a number of
extension springs from the local hardware untill I found one that pulled
against it just right so that it would stay where I wanted it.
This is probably new information for Rich.

Bill Coleman
Erie PA

On Mon, Jun 22, 2020, 5:20 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Back when our engine controls were installed, there was no easy way to
> induce friction to the throttle cable to keep the throttle return from
> backing the engine down.  The common fix was to place a small clamp on the
> throttle cable housing and induce just enough compression on the cable to
> prevent it from backing down by itself.
>
> Mine has a factory installed clamp located adjacent to the starboard
> lazarette so it is pretty accessible if it needs adjustment.  On newer
> pedestal top engine controls (Edson 816 and 870 models), there’s a hex bolt
> located inside the control housing that puts pressure on a bushing
> surrounding the throttle lever.
>
>
>
> There’s no way my diesel revs anywhere near as high as yours.  If my
> engine revs over 2500, the engine feels like it is going to jump clear out
> of the hull.  At 2100 RPM, Half Magic cruises well over 6knts in smooth
> water, 2500 just digs a bigger hole in the water..  Maybe I need motor
> mounts???
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Peter
> Cowenhoven via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 22, 2020 4:59 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Peter Cowenhoven 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35
>
>
>
> Also had a bit of a throttle issue where it would slip down to lower rpm's
> and I had to hold it to keep it above 2500. But I couldn't get over 3000.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 84 Landfall 35

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

Gary,
What were the signs that the head was cracked?  Coolant in engine oil?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 4:36 PM, Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List wrote:   
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