Stus-List Re: From richard

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

Good fricken luck

That tank is accessible by removing the head sink and surround trim.

Our dip tube broke off inside the tank, so I reached my arm into our (very
full) tank, reconnected the dip tube, then pumped out the tank, promptly
bought an airhead composting toilet, removed all of the old marine head
plumbing etc and cut out the tank in pieces (since removing it in one piece
is quite labor intensive), and installed the airhead.

We live aboard and I think the airhead was one of our better improvements.

I used the extra space under the sink to add a diesel heater and ran the
vents into the head and our aft cabin. It dries out our gear
exceptionally well and warms our toes on cold nights when the electric
radiator in the salon isn't enough.. I digress 


On Mon, Apr 5, 2021, 3:45 PM richard hosker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good Day
>
>
>
> I am new to the C@C email list
>
> I have been receiving emails re discussion.
>
>
>
> I have purchased a C@C 37+ Malo no 9
>
> I bought the sailboat a few months ago and know she lives in San Diego
>
> I have been doing maintenance and been sailing her, she is a great boat
>
>
>
> I have had a slight issue over the last week. I have tried to look on the
> forum re my issue but could not find anything
>
>
>
> My holding tank in the bathroom area under the sink has developed a hole
> at the bottom and I need to replace this unit
>
>
>
> Can anyone help me with the issue of a new tank and installation
>
>
>
> Richard Hosker
>
> rhva...@hotmail.com
>
> Malo C@C 37+ 1989 hull no 9
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

I did this project when first purchased our 34 22 years ago.  What you describe 
sure sounds like VC tar to me.  PO used VC 17 paint (fresh water) with VC Tar 
as barrier coat that had eroded in many areas.  Used chemical stripper very 
sensitive to heat and humidity and very toxic.  Apply stripper, put on paper 
plastic sheeting so does not dry, let stand for X time and strip off.  Found a 
heavy plastic scraper worked well to remove.  Must wear protective clothing or 
will get chemical burns on skin and respirator for toxic fumes.  Bear of a job 
but got to clean gel coat with minimal sanding / fairing required.  6 coats 
epoxy barrier coat and still going strong.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK II

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Same bolts as mine, two bolts through the mast step, one is under the mast.
I have the original cast alloy mast step.

On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 10:46 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A fine looking example with some nice upgrades. I noticed the new SS mast
> step, which appears to have a keel stud/nut aft of the mast. Mine is under
> the mast (or so I'm told...), so does this mean that a new stud was tapped
> into the keel at this point? Certainly easier to check torque in that
> location.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 1, 2021 at 11:57 AM John McCrea via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>>
>>
>> If anyone is in the market, a friend of mine is listing his 1974 35 mk
>> II, well kept version that has been to Bermuda many times.
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1974/c-c-35-mk-ii-3821830/
>>
>>
>>
>> John McCrea
>>
>> Talisman
>>
>> Mystic, CT 06355
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List List from Richard, Now 37+ holding tank

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Richard, I will send you pictures and a description of what you are facing to your email. It’s a big job but very possible. I haven’t heard of anyone else having to do this job and I believe most 37/40s have a poly tank rather than aluminum. I took it one step farther and converted the port side water tank to a holding tank for storage in the Great Lakes. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List From richard

[richard hosker via CnC-List]

Good Day

I am new to the C@C email list
I have been receiving emails re discussion.

I have purchased a C@C 37+ Malo no 9
I bought the sailboat a few months ago and know she lives in San Diego
I have been doing maintenance and been sailing her, she is a great boat

I have had a slight issue over the last week. I have tried to look on the forum 
re my issue but could not find anything

My holding tank in the bathroom area under the sink has developed a hole at the 
bottom and I need to replace this unit

Can anyone help me with the issue of a new tank and installation

Richard Hosker
rhva...@hotmail.com
Malo C@C 37+ 1989 hull no 9

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Matt – thanks for the detail, very very much appreciated. Yes likely VC tar.   My Dutch/Scottish heart also warms to the reuse of a disposable brush, gripped in a very tight fist.        Dave Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Matt JanssenSent: April 5, 2021 11:03 AMTo: Stus-List; Dave SCc: Della Barba, JoeSubject: Re: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal? Dave, Is it possible you are trying to remove VC Tar or similar?  Coal tar epoxy is the corrosion protection system we typically spec for steel sheets in a marine environment. Bluewater makes a bottom barrier coat for boats, but I suspect it's for commercial use on steel hull barges etc.  If you're dealing with VC Tar as Joe and others have suggested, then misery loves company. I am the final stretch of the same project. For me the tar was softer, it smelled terrible and was still somewhat tacky in warm temps. After much trial and error I settled on two techniques that worked for me. Chemical stripping - I used Citristrip and a glass cleaner (4-inch wide razor blade) in lieu of a putty knife. With the razor blade (lots of replacement blades), and a little practice, i was able to peel off two or three layers of paint at a time and leave a smooth fair surface. On the tar, i was able to get between the tar and gel coat without gouging the hull. My boat was raced by the original owner and had a decent bottom, but had suffered from paint build up. While this sounds tedious, it minimized the fairing and longboarding. The rub is the stripper needs the temps to be close to 60-F (15-C) to work and needs to sit for at least an hour or two. If you're in direct sunlight or windy, you'll want to cover the stripper with plastic. You want to avoid letting it dry out. (Another boat in the yard didn't use plastic, but just mist the gel with a water bottle to keep it from drying out.) With the citristrip, i was able to apply it and leave it overnight covered with plastic and then come back to scrape it the next day. It seemed to work up to about 3-layers of paint.   Mechanical Removal - Unfortunately, I counted 12 separate colors of bottom paint before getting to the tar, i'm located in the NE and with a hard launch date, i had to use a mix of chemical and mechanical removal. The only system that worked for me without destroying the hull shape was a 6-inch random orbital sander using 80-grit Mirka Abranet pads. The Mirka are a mesh pad and do not clog with the tar as long as your dust collection system is decent. I used a home depot dust stopper  separator before the shop vac. It is stupid expensive for what it is... but it really works and saves your shop vac filters. I could get 10 to 15 minutes out of the Mirka pads. I've gone through close to 30-pads in the project. I tried using traditional 36-grit pads but they were dulled after about 5-minutes. Also tried the Bahco carbide scrapers. Those worked well for level surfaces (e.g the rudder that you drop and put on saw horses) but it was tough sledding to work on your back under the hull. If you do go that route, bevel the edges of the blades and you won't gouge the hull.   If you're still here, a few other lessons I learned the hard way.  Managing heat on the pads was important. The Mirka pads do not insulate the hooks from heat. So you'll absolutely need to use pad protectors. If you don't, you'll melt the hooks on your sander and your disks will be flying off the sander by lunch on the first day. I lost a few days waiting for new parts when this happened to me... I also found lighter pressure on the sander worked better. Letting the pad spin faster allowed it to chew more of the material away. Easier on the shoulders too.  Switching back to the stripper, I applied with a chip brush. Someone in the yard pointed out that i should only be brushing in one direction. Most have a wax in them that helps prevent drying out. Applying in one direction certainly helped increase the working time of the gel. Being dutch, i was able to wash the chip brush in hot water and used one brush for the whole job.  Best of luck with the project -- cheers, matt C 27 Mk VEDUAMRYC, NJ   On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:51 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  wrote:I think this might mean coal tar epoxy barrier coat, which is nice until it starts coming off ☹ JoeCoquinaThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The idea is the sail goes out in front of the boat and then to the other side 
smoothly with some tension.
Right way:
Ease port sheet and pull starboard sheet. Sail crosses over with the clew out 
in front without either sheet ever being totally slack.

Wrong way:
Let port sheet go. Sail flies all the way forward like a giant flag. Wander 
over to the starboard side of the boat and pull the starboard sheet in. 
Meanwhile the 30-50 feet of slack port sheet end up under the boat.

I am sure there are other variations on this.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina

From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 5, 2021 12:14 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Michael Crombie 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

Hi Andy,

Could you elaborate on "if you do it right" with respect to single handing an 
outside gybe with an asymmetrical spin?  :)

I'll set and douse mine single handed, but have yet to attempt a single handed 
gybe.

Mike
ribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you 
want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

At one time (like 25 years ago) you would see something like black tar as a bottom paint on wooden boats - I associate it with fishing trawlers. I always thought it had creosote or some such in it as a preservative in addition to sealant and antifouling. IIRC it was nasty to work with.Rick Brass-Original Message-
From: Matthew via CnC-List 
Sent: Apr 5, 2021 9:54 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

I don’t know about “coal tar” per se, but as the name suggests it is probably a thick, gooey black substance you could apply to the bottom as a barrier coat.  VC used to make a product called VC Tar.  I used it once and found it too difficult to work with.  Go with regular barrier coat, like Interprotect 2000 (or whatever name/number it goes by now). From: David Risch via CnC-List  Sent: Monday, April 05, 2021 8:27 AMTo: Stus-List Cc: David Risch Subject: Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal? I am having a hard time wrapping my head around a "coal tar bottom paint".   Never heard of it.Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.  From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2021 2:23:58 PMTo: Stus-List Cc: Bill Coleman Subject: Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?  A friend of mine was working on a sewage treatment project once. He had to repaint some steel tanks that were coated with coal tar. He said he tried in vain to sandblast it, but it wouldn't touch it. So I said, why are you even trying to remove it if it's on there that good? It doesn't seem like you could do any better than that. But apparently that's what they wanted for some reasonBill On Sun, Apr 4, 2021, 1:25 PM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:Funny stuff - clogs sanding/grinding discs then burns which kinda works.     acetone does dissolve it but it’s not a practical approach.   The stuff is cracking and appears to be drying on the surface, though is rubbery when removing.   - have been painting anti fouling over it but I expect I’ll need to renew before long. Any suggestions as to how to remove?Thanks, Dave Sent from my iPhoneThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Asymmetical Spinnaker outside jibe

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Andy,

Could you elaborate on "if you do it right" with respect to single handing
an outside gybe with an asymmetrical spin?  :)

I'll set and douse mine single handed, but have yet to attempt a single
handed gybe.

Mike

On Mon., Mar. 8, 2021, 10:41 a.m. Andrew Burton via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That won't be a problem...at least it wasn’t for me on my 40 and now on my
> Baltic 47, both of which have the kite tacked just aft of the headstay.
> If you do it right, that outside gybe is way easier than an inside gybe. I
> used to set, douse, and gybe the kite on my 40 singlehanded.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 8, 2021, at 10:34, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have been thinking about ordering long sheets for my “reacher" (A sail)
> to be able to do outside jibes.  All the videos I have seen for this
> technique have the spinnaker tack on a sprit or attached forward of the
> headstay.  That seems pretty simple, but I don’t have an attachment point
> there.  My tack can either be attached directly to a padeye on the deck
> behind the forestay or to a strap around the furled headsail and then to
> the padeye.   I think that means that every time I jibe, the tack line will
> wrap around the headstay.  Is that a problem?   I could douse with the sock
> and redeploy after jibe (sounds slow for racing) or add an attachment
> point to the pulpit for a block so I am forward of the headstay.  Am I
> missing something?  How do others without sprits do this?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I found this very interesting as well. I had a sander start spinning disks off 
last year, melted hooks must have been the problem, thanks for that tip!

Also, I have tried to buy the dust cyclone from Rockler for $89 on sale, both 
times I got a cancellation notice from them a few days after purchasing, so I 
gave up.  Good to hear that they work as advertised.



And the chip brush is just a coarse brush that you wouldn’t use for painting, 
but for brushing metal chips away from your drill or cutter as you were 
machining. 

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2021 11:30 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

 

While I don't have a tar bottom, I enjoyed this thorough account as there are 
some good general tips. What is a chip brush?

 

Thanks


--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com

S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

 

 

On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:03 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Dave,

 

Is it possible you are trying to remove VC Tar or similar? 

 

Coal tar epoxy is the corrosion protection system we typically spec for steel 
sheets in a marine environment. Bluewater makes a bottom barrier coat for 
boats, but I suspect it's for commercial use on steel hull barges etc. 

 

If you're dealing with VC Tar as Joe and others have suggested, then misery 
loves company. I am the final stretch of the same project.

 

For me the tar was softer, it smelled terrible and was still somewhat tacky in 
warm temps. After much trial and error I settled on two techniques that worked 
for me. 

1.  Chemical stripping - I used Citristrip and a glass cleaner  

 (4-inch wide razor blade) in lieu of a putty knife. With the razor blade (lots 
of replacement blades), and a little practice, i was able to peel off two or 
three layers of paint at a time and leave a smooth fair surface. On the tar, i 
was able to get between the tar and gel coat without gouging the hull. My boat 
was raced by the original owner and had a decent bottom, but had suffered from 
paint build up. While this sounds tedious, it minimized the fairing and 
longboarding. The rub is the stripper needs the temps to be close to 60-F 
(15-C) to work and needs to sit for at least an hour or two. If you're in 
direct sunlight or windy, you'll want to cover the stripper with plastic. You 
want to avoid letting it dry out. (Another boat in the yard didn't use plastic, 
but just mist the gel with a water bottle to keep it from drying out.) With the 
citristrip, i was able to apply it and leave it overnight covered with plastic 
and then come back to scrape it the next day. It seemed to work up to about 
3-layers of paint.   
2.  Mechanical Removal - Unfortunately, I counted 12 separate colors of 
bottom paint before getting to the tar, i'm located in the NE and with a hard 
launch date, i had to use a mix of chemical and mechanical removal. The only 
system that worked for me without destroying the hull shape was a 6-inch random 
orbital sander using 80-grit Mirka Abranet pads. The Mirka are a mesh pad and 
do not clog with the tar as long as your dust collection system is decent. I 
used a home depot dust stopper 

   separator before the shop vac. It is stupid expensive for what it is... but 
it really works and saves your shop vac filters. I could get 10 to 15 minutes 
out of the Mirka pads. I've gone through close to 30-pads in the project.

 

I tried using traditional 36-grit pads but they were dulled after about 
5-minutes. Also tried the Bahco carbide scrapers. Those worked well for level 
surfaces (e.g the rudder that you drop and put on saw horses) but it was tough 
sledding to work on your back under the hull. If you do go that route, bevel 
the edges of the blades and you won't gouge the hull.  

 

If you're still here, a few other lessons I learned the hard way. 

 

Managing heat on the pads was important. The Mirka pads do not insulate the 
hooks from heat. So you'll absolutely need to use pad protectors. If you don't, 
you'll melt the hooks on your sander and your disks will be flying off the 
sander by lunch on the first day. I lost a few days waiting for new parts when 
this happened to me... I also found lighter pressure on the sander worked 
better. Letting the pad spin faster allowed it to chew more of the material 
away. Easier on the shoulders too. 

 

Switching back to the stripper, I applied with a chip brush. Someone in the 
yard pointed out that i should only be brushing in one direction. Most have a 
wax in them that helps prevent drying out. Applying in one direction certainly 
helped increase the working time of the gel. Being dutch, i was able to 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

While I don't have a tar bottom, I enjoyed this thorough account as there
are some good general tips. What is a chip brush?

Thanks
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:03 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave,
>
> Is it possible you are trying to remove VC Tar or similar?
>
> Coal tar epoxy is the corrosion protection system we typically spec for
> steel sheets in a marine environment. Bluewater makes a bottom barrier coat
> for boats, but I suspect it's for commercial use on steel hull barges etc.
>
> If you're dealing with VC Tar as Joe and others have suggested, then
> misery loves company. I am the final stretch of the same project.
>
> For me the tar was softer, it smelled terrible and was still somewhat
> tacky in warm temps. After much trial and error I settled on two techniques
> that worked for me.
>
>1. Chemical stripping - I used Citristrip and a glass cleaner
>
> (4-inch
>wide razor blade) in lieu of a putty knife. With the razor blade (lots of
>replacement blades), and a little practice, i was able to peel off two or
>three layers of paint at a time and leave a smooth fair surface. On the
>tar, i was able to get between the tar and gel coat without gouging the
>hull. My boat was raced by the original owner and had a decent bottom, but
>had suffered from paint build up. While this sounds tedious, it minimized
>the fairing and longboarding. The rub is the stripper needs the temps to be
>close to 60-F (15-C) to work and needs to sit for at least an hour or two.
>If you're in direct sunlight or windy, you'll want to cover the stripper
>with plastic. You want to avoid letting it dry out. (Another boat in the
>yard didn't use plastic, but just mist the gel with a water bottle to keep
>it from drying out.) With the citristrip, i was able to apply it and leave
>it overnight covered with plastic and then come back to scrape it the next
>day. It seemed to work up to about 3-layers of paint.
>2. Mechanical Removal - Unfortunately, I counted 12 separate colors of
>bottom paint before getting to the tar, i'm located in the NE and with a
>hard launch date, i had to use a mix of chemical and mechanical removal.
>The only system that worked for me without destroying the hull shape was a
>6-inch random orbital sander using 80-grit Mirka Abranet pads. The Mirka
>are a mesh pad and do not clog with the tar as long as your dust collection
>system is decent. I used a home depot dust stopper
>
> 
>  separator
>before the shop vac. It is stupid expensive for what it is... but it really
>works and saves your shop vac filters. I could get 10 to 15 minutes out of
>the Mirka pads. I've gone through close to 30-pads in the project.
>
>
> I tried using traditional 36-grit pads but they were dulled after about
> 5-minutes. Also tried the Bahco carbide scrapers. Those worked well
> for level surfaces (e.g the rudder that you drop and put on saw horses) but
> it was tough sledding to work on your back under the hull. If you do go
> that route, bevel the edges of the blades and you won't gouge the hull.
>
> If you're still here, a few other lessons I learned the hard way.
>
> Managing heat on the pads was important. The Mirka pads do not insulate
> the hooks from heat. So you'll absolutely need to use pad protectors. If
> you don't, you'll melt the hooks on your sander and your disks will be
> flying off the sander by lunch on the first day. I lost a few days waiting
> for new parts when this happened to me... I also found lighter pressure on
> the sander worked better. Letting the pad spin faster allowed it to chew
> more of the material away. Easier on the shoulders too.
>
> Switching back to the stripper, I applied with a chip brush. Someone in
> the yard pointed out that i should only be brushing in one direction. Most
> have a wax in them that helps prevent drying out. Applying in one direction
> certainly helped increase the working time of the gel. Being dutch, i was
> able to wash the chip brush in hot water and used one brush for the whole
> job.
>
> Best of luck with the project -- cheers,
>
> matt
>
> C 27 Mk V
> EDUAM
> RYC, NJ
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:51 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think this might mean coal tar epoxy barrier coat, which is nice until
>> it starts coming off ☹
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Matt Janssen via CnC-List]

Dave,

Is it possible you are trying to remove VC Tar or similar?

Coal tar epoxy is the corrosion protection system we typically spec for
steel sheets in a marine environment. Bluewater makes a bottom barrier coat
for boats, but I suspect it's for commercial use on steel hull barges etc.

If you're dealing with VC Tar as Joe and others have suggested, then
misery loves company. I am the final stretch of the same project.

For me the tar was softer, it smelled terrible and was still somewhat tacky
in warm temps. After much trial and error I settled on two techniques that
worked for me.

   1. Chemical stripping - I used Citristrip and a glass cleaner
   
(4-inch
   wide razor blade) in lieu of a putty knife. With the razor blade (lots of
   replacement blades), and a little practice, i was able to peel off two or
   three layers of paint at a time and leave a smooth fair surface. On the
   tar, i was able to get between the tar and gel coat without gouging the
   hull. My boat was raced by the original owner and had a decent bottom, but
   had suffered from paint build up. While this sounds tedious, it minimized
   the fairing and longboarding. The rub is the stripper needs the temps to be
   close to 60-F (15-C) to work and needs to sit for at least an hour or two.
   If you're in direct sunlight or windy, you'll want to cover the stripper
   with plastic. You want to avoid letting it dry out. (Another boat in the
   yard didn't use plastic, but just mist the gel with a water bottle to keep
   it from drying out.) With the citristrip, i was able to apply it and leave
   it overnight covered with plastic and then come back to scrape it the next
   day. It seemed to work up to about 3-layers of paint.
   2. Mechanical Removal - Unfortunately, I counted 12 separate colors of
   bottom paint before getting to the tar, i'm located in the NE and with a
   hard launch date, i had to use a mix of chemical and mechanical removal.
   The only system that worked for me without destroying the hull shape was a
   6-inch random orbital sander using 80-grit Mirka Abranet pads. The Mirka
   are a mesh pad and do not clog with the tar as long as your dust collection
   system is decent. I used a home depot dust stopper
   

separator
   before the shop vac. It is stupid expensive for what it is... but it really
   works and saves your shop vac filters. I could get 10 to 15 minutes out of
   the Mirka pads. I've gone through close to 30-pads in the project.


I tried using traditional 36-grit pads but they were dulled after about
5-minutes. Also tried the Bahco carbide scrapers. Those worked well
for level surfaces (e.g the rudder that you drop and put on saw horses) but
it was tough sledding to work on your back under the hull. If you do go
that route, bevel the edges of the blades and you won't gouge the hull.

If you're still here, a few other lessons I learned the hard way.

Managing heat on the pads was important. The Mirka pads do not insulate the
hooks from heat. So you'll absolutely need to use pad protectors. If you
don't, you'll melt the hooks on your sander and your disks will be flying
off the sander by lunch on the first day. I lost a few days waiting for new
parts when this happened to me... I also found lighter pressure on the
sander worked better. Letting the pad spin faster allowed it to chew more
of the material away. Easier on the shoulders too.

Switching back to the stripper, I applied with a chip brush. Someone in the
yard pointed out that i should only be brushing in one direction. Most have
a wax in them that helps prevent drying out. Applying in one direction
certainly helped increase the working time of the gel. Being dutch, i was
able to wash the chip brush in hot water and used one brush for the whole
job.

Best of luck with the project -- cheers,

matt

C 27 Mk V
EDUAM
RYC, NJ



On Mon, Apr 5, 2021 at 8:51 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think this might mean coal tar epoxy barrier coat, which is nice until
> it starts coming off ☹
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I don't know about "coal tar" per se, but as the name suggests it is
probably a thick, gooey black substance you could apply to the bottom as a
barrier coat.  VC used to make a product called VC Tar.  I used it once and
found it too difficult to work with.  Go with regular barrier coat, like
Interprotect 2000 (or whatever name/number it goes by now).

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2021 8:27 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

 

I am having a hard time wrapping my head around a "coal tar bottom paint".
Never heard of it.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

  _  

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2021 2:23:58 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal? 

 

A friend of mine was working on a sewage treatment project once. He had to
repaint some steel tanks that were coated with coal tar. He said he tried in
vain to sandblast it, but it wouldn't touch it. So I said, why are you even
trying to remove it if it's on there that good? It doesn't seem like you
could do any better than that. But apparently that's what they wanted for
some reason

Bill

 

On Sun, Apr 4, 2021, 1:25 PM Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Funny stuff - clogs sanding/grinding discs then burns which kinda works.
acetone does dissolve it but it's not a practical approach.   The stuff is
cracking and appears to be drying on the surface, though is rubbery when
removing.   - have been painting anti fouling over it but I expect I'll need
to renew before long. 

Any suggestions as to how to remove?

Thanks, Dave 



Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
   Thanks
- Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List One owner 32 for sale

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Hank has owned boat since new

https://sites.google.com/view/cc32forsale/home

I've raced against the boat but otherwise am not familiar with it.

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I think this might mean coal tar epoxy barrier coat, which is nice until it 
starts coming off ☹

Joe
Coquina
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[David Risch via CnC-List]

I am having a hard time wrapping my head around a "coal tar bottom paint".   
Never heard of it.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 4, 2021 2:23:58 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

A friend of mine was working on a sewage treatment project once. He had to 
repaint some steel tanks that were coated with coal tar. He said he tried in 
vain to sandblast it, but it wouldn't touch it. So I said, why are you even 
trying to remove it if it's on there that good? It doesn't seem like you could 
do any better than that. But apparently that's what they wanted for some reason

Bill

On Sun, Apr 4, 2021, 1:25 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Funny stuff - clogs sanding/grinding discs then burns which kinda works.
 acetone does dissolve it but it’s not a practical approach.   The stuff is 
cracking and appears to be drying on the surface, though is rubbery when 
removing.   - have been painting anti fouling over it but I expect I’ll need to 
renew before long.

Any suggestions as to how to remove?

Thanks, Dave



Sent from my iPhone
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu