Doing the same job on Talisman as we speak. Luckily, I have John Read in the
same yard, he advised me to pull them out as my stb side had some play in one
of them after pulling pin and deck plates. Discovered some wet blas that
extends about three inches around the cutout. Have holes drilled around deck to
ensure that the rest is dry and removed the wet balsa. Will be backfilling with
expoxy to fill the voids and then will be using butyl. I am hopeful I can use
waxpaper and the actual chain plates to use as forms. So far it looks like port
is dry, will do some investigation there this weekend.
From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2022 10:54 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplates 33-2
Mike, I have removed and rebedded my port chainplate on my 1987 no166 33mkii.
On my boat at least, I can confirm that the deck area core around the
chainplate is the same bug putty you find elsewhere on the boat. So solid core
and no balsa. Mine was solid with no sign of water intrusion. The big SS rod
inside has a head that sits in the aluminum block under deck and that
combination is prone to galvanic corrosion and may be seized. The tension of
the chainplate is adjusted by the turnbuckle at the base of the rod. You should
hold the rod while adjusting the turnbuckle. I adjust the tension by eye… I
want them tight but I don’t want to pull the deck. ( without any shrouds
attached Or with looses shrouds) If you remove all tension and are not able to
move/turn the rod, then you know it is seized in the aluminum block. This is
not dramatic in my opinion. My port side was a bit stiff, caused by surface
corrosion, but there was no sign of structural degradation.
I don’t remember the torque used to reassemble the bronze bolts that hold
everything in place, but I’m sure I must have tightened it enough…
Unfortunately I was not able to remove the starboard side, the bronze studs are
seized in the aluminum block. I tried different things but gave up. The deck is
dry, and I manage to stop a small leak by squeezing butyl tape from outside a
round the head of the bronze studs. I see the aluminum block has some corrosion
but it is pretty thick so I am confident it is still plenty strong.
Hope that helps.
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc
Le 14 avr. 2022 à 18:12, Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > a écrit :
Mike - mine don’t move at all and the nuts are very tight. Can’t recall if
you leave your mast up but I suspect that when the rigging is tensioned yours
won’t move. I’d make sure I check the bottom end of that rod and make sure
it’s attachment is sound.
I had one of the four bolts leak and I rebedded and and tightened it up without
crushing anything. I haven’t confirmed 100% but I suspect the deck is solid in
this area.
Dave 33-2 windstar
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 14, 2022, at 3:40 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
Hi all,
I'm about to start rebedding some of my deck hardware on my C 33 mkii (1986)
and have moved onto the chainplates.
Inside the boat, there is a tie rod that is connected to the hull and runs up
to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The block is directly under
the chainplate; the block and plate are connected by 4 bolts that go through
the deck.
It is my understanding that the tie rod has a head that is inside the block and
that one can rotate the rod to tighten or loosen it and the head just turns on
the aluminum.
Here are my questions:
The starboard tie rod moves slightly if I really pull on it. Can I tighten it
up just by turning it?
Also, the nuts holding the block to the chainplate are not very tight.
Presumably they shouldn't be too tight or that could crush the deck. Does
anyone know how much they should be tightened? Right now they are not even what
I would call "snug".
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto
